Canon Vixia HF100 Camcorder
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Editors' Comments
Flash memory is making its way into Hi Definition with Canon's Vixia line of camcorders. The HF100 can capture full resolution hidef video in either 24p Cinema mode or 30p progressive. The HF100 then captures it directly a Secure Digital HC flash memory card, thanks to it's HD CMOS Image Sensor, which works in concert with a DIGIC DV II Image Processor for superior color and clarity.
A 12x optical zoom that captures focus instantly thanks to Canon's new patentet Instant AutoFocus and SuperRange Optical Image Stabilizer.
Specifications
- High-definition flash memory card camcorder
- 12x optical zoom
- Optical Image Stabilization
- 24p 'Cinema' and 30p 'Progressive' recording modes
- 2.7-inch widescreen (16:9) LCD
Product Information
| Manufacturer | Canon |
|---|---|
| Part Number | HF100 |
| UPC | 13803092004 |
| Release Date | Apr 01, 2008 |
HF100 Accessories:
Canon Vixia HF100 Camcorder Comments & Questions (write your own!)
Another issue may be that spyware is affecting your PC so it won't install. So make sure you have cleaned off your computer. Reboot and then hook it up via firewire. The OS should then see it. If it doesn't, then I'd look into your DEVICE MANAGER (right click my computer, then properties, hardware, device manager and see if there's a yellow exclaimation point in your firewire port and your USB ports. If that's the case, you may need to troubleshoot that before installing.
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Michael.
So I thought I'd add a step-by-step instruction for HF11 in case someone else, like me, end up here from a Google link:
1. Turn the camera function selector to "watch video".
2. Push "func". A few icons will appear on the bottom of the screen.
3. Use joystick to scroll to rightmost alternative ("MENU").
4. Push joystick ("SET").
5. Scroll down to "System setup".
6. Push joystick right.
7. Scroll down. On the second page you will find the USB settings.
8. Push joystick ("SET")
9. Select PC/PRINTER or CONNECT&SET. The latter enables you to select the kind of device each time you connect to another device with a USB cable.
You came to the rescue just in time, smile:-)))
Ibeth
However, Pixela software that comes with the Vixia line will allow you to do exactly what you want, which is record your stuff in HD, then transfer to PC, edit and burn a standard-def DVD that's playable in ordinary DVD players.
Of course, it is recommended to keep a backup of all original AVCHD files from the SDHC card, so when you change your TV to HD and get a Blu-ray player, you can re-import all that AVCHD and create HD optical discs (Blu-ray compatible DVDs or similar) for full HD playback.
Anyway, I recommend using MPEG Streamclip by Squared 5. It's free and is a great solution.
Also, some compressions work better then others.
The price difference is around $150-$200 but right now you can get 3(Three) SDHC Sandisk Extreme III of 8GB each for around $230 with $140 mail-in-rebate (when you get the rebate you will end-up with 24 GB of external memory for $90 which is nice).
IMO it is much better to get the HF100 and buy the memory separately. This memory can even be used on other devices like DSLRs or even point-and-shoot cameras that accept SDHC like the canon SD 870IS.
Gilbert Shanley
Need to know opinion on shooting soccer games - objects will range from 100 yards away to right next to me almost. Need a good wide view angle. Plan on having this up on a 12' jib/boom device.
How is lo-light/nighttime shooting?
Does either model offer add-on lenses (telephoto, fisheye, etc)
THANKS! ! ! big time!
- Saylor
Now, as for shooting in soccer games, it does have a sports preset available and IMHO it will work just as good as the HDR-SR11. Both will be encoding with AVCHD so video quality wise, it'll be about the same. But remember, by shooting on a jib, you'll be pulling that camera down much more often with a camera shooting on a 4 or 8 GB SDHC card than you would with a hard drive camcorder.
Quality wise, I still believe that an HD camera like the HV20 or 30 will do better simply because it shoots to miniDV tape without that compression you find in a camera shooting AVCHD. For editing, it's better to have source material that isn't as compressed.
As for low light ... not HD camera is really great in low light right now. Way to new to the world. But it will get better as time goes on and the HD technology matures. Mean time, I'd be using an LCD video light.
Thanks for the additional info on add-on lenses, and going into detail about compression, media, etc.
Excellent. I may actually make an informed purchase once in my life :)
- Saylor
There is a $280 difference between them. (based on search results "starting at" quote)
Good battery life! (My DC100 gets about 80 minutes at best)
Great picture quality in general (DC100 is always swimming in and out of focus)
Really good low light quality (Again, DC100 is always blurry. I'm a Disney Travel agent so being able to take good recordings of fireworks/night time parades/even rides without using a bright light like infrared- I think is the feature- is a big help in my business.)
I'm tired of mini DVDs only allotting 30 mins of video (I don't want to sacrifice quality for longer taping)
I do like filming large quantities of footage so media is important (plus it's got to be pretty easy to carry around. Reason we switched from tape)
I'd like an HD since that seems to be the wave we're on, but it's not necessary.
I also use Vista and would like to be able to have my videos transferred to DVD. I know this is a tall order and wishful thinking, but any advice & suggestions would be welcome!!
And I understand that you'd like to to stay away from tape, but at this time, MiniDV is still the best medium for getting quality video. That's because both dvd and hard drive based camcorders (and now flash based cameras) tend to record in an MPEG2 based format, which uses compression to save on space. Oppositely, miniDV cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... ) are much more robust and are much better in format because they film uncompressed video that, isn't recompressed when burning to DVD like the other options are.
As for HiDef (HD), best HD camcorders still have at best, average low light performance. High Definition is still too much in it's infancy to expect low light performance to be where it's more mature SD cousins are at. But if you are looking to move to HD (and the time is ripe for it considering we're rapidly moving towards the HD deadline) then my suggestion is to take a look at both the Canon HV30 and the Canon HG10. Both use HD. The HV30 records to miniDV tapes and the HG10 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... ) records to a digital hard drive in AVCHD -which gives stunning results. Another option is the flash based Canon HF100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... ).
Lastly, my recommendation is to read some of DHQs Camcorder Advice Guides ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... ). They may help demystify the process of which camcorder is best for you.
Good luck!
youtube.com/watch?v=62BM_CV...
link for video
But as for if you can offload your videos onto a portable hard drive, I think that depends on the PHDs software and if it has a card slot for just such an opportunity. But it's certainly possible and probably has more to do with the PHDs capability, rather than the card or camera's ability to do so. The camera can easily be set to streaming - like it would to offload to a PC - and then it's the PHDs software which would take over from that point.
Thank you for your help. I just found a card reader with built-in 120 g from Wolverine ( it is a portable hard drive). It is supposed to allow one to load all the photos and video from a flash card into its hard drive. I may try it if full refund is not an issue( in case it does not work). I may also try products such as Simple Tech portable hard drive from local circuit city or best buy.
The Wolverine cost about $170 and I can get three 16 g SDHD cards for about $190 , but the total g is ( 48g) still less than the Wolverline's 120 g.
Didn't know where to ask this question - move it if needed.
Seems like all HD camcorders can only go to 10x optical zoom, but non-HD models can go up to 40x optical zoom?
Is there a reason - like a limitation or something?
Thanks!
- Saylor
Besides, if they came out with a 40x camcorder right off the spot, they couldn't sell you another one in a few years, could they?
Thanks for all the help. After your, and many others, advice, I've bought the hdr - sr11, it will be here in a couple of days . . .
we'll see how it goes :)
- Saylor
Another option is buying knock off BP-809 batteries off of Ebay. If you search for BP-809, you will find then for about $15-20 shipped, much less then buying them from Canon.
Canon recently discovered these counterfeit lithium-ion battery packs and chargers on sale, and in circulation on internet auction websites, being passed off as Canon genuine lithium-ion battery packs and chargers. Canon also learned of an explosion which appears to have been caused by one of these counterfeit lithium-ion battery packs.
Because these counterfeit lithium-ion battery packs and battery chargers are often not equipped with certain protective devices meeting Canon's and the industry's basic quality standards, using or recharging these counterfeit lithium-ion battery packs could cause your camcorder to malfunction, or lead these battery packs to overheat, leak liquids, ignite, or explode. In the worst case, this could not only damage your camera or camcorder, but also result in fire, burns and/or injuries (including loss of eyesight). Accordingly, these counterfeit lithium-ion battery packs and/or battery chargers should not be used.
Cannon HV20? thereby having a minitape archive. How do i convert the flash info -- or is this done automaticly by Studio 12. thanks,Jerry
And since the HV20 has firewire capability, you should be good to go.
Any suggestions much appreciated, thank you.
The nice thing about the HF100 is that you can use existing SDHC cards and transferring to the PC is easy. Then it's a simple burn to DVD. And at around $600 for HD, it's very affordable. As for the HV30, you can't go wrong with miniDV tape. Tried and true.
HDD -> Moving parts, not good if you have kids and are on the move alot. I have read and heard this from many people who own and sell such cameras. They do have a mechanism which prevents HDD but it is still prone to damage and failure. Regardless benefit is that it is a large capacity drive and you wont have to juggle media cards and swap them out once full.
Hope this helps :)
(thanks to PMAC for pointing out my error on this)
Click [Export] in the main window.
Click [Export Movies]
Select your movie and click [Select the sage image type]
Select the file type and click [set the save image type]
Specify the export settings and click [specify name of file to be saved]
Specify the file name and click [start export]
Click [OK]
It's around page 70 of your manual, which can be downloaded from CanonUSA.
Regarding PMB I will check it when I get home tonight.
according to camcorderinfo.com/content/C...
" There is no standard definition recording option on the HF100. "
Thanks for the help James but I cant find anything in the camera settings or the manual.
What you need is:
WINDOWS VISTA, XP, and 2000 Operating Systems Processor:
* INTEL PENTIUM 4 2.8 GHz processor or faster
* INTEL PENTIUM D processor
* INTEL CORE Duo and CORE 2 processors (including CORE 2 Duo, CORE 2 Quad, etc.)
* AMD ATHLON 64, 64 FX, and 64 X2 Dual-Core processors
* AMD TURION 64 and 64 X2 Dual-Core mobile processors
Computer Memory (RAM): 2 GB or greater (64 bit systems are unlimited)
Video Display Memory: 256 MB or greater
MACINTOSH OS X
Processor:
* 1.8 GHz POWERMAC G5 or faster
* INTEL CORE Duo and CORE 2 processors (including CORE 2 Duo) D processor
Computer Memory (RAM): 2GB or greater
Video Display Memory: 256 MB or greater
But that doesn't answer your question. The interesting thing is that the majority of HD users prefer the PS3 with Blu-Ray DVD. It's the most popular blu-ray player on the market. And considering you get one of the best game consoles out there to boot, it's a great deal. As for the "upscaling" dvd player, it depends. If it's Blu-ray, you should have no trouble.
Here's another tip - when importing your footage into your editor, import it at 540p, rather than720p. You'll get very similar quality with little loss and the doing so will tax your PC far less than using the entire HD resolution.
Intel base laptop: CPU T7700 C2D @ 2.4 GHz, 4GB of DDRII-800 CL 4, GPU=GeForce 8600 GT (256 MB Vram).
AMD: TL-64 Turion (x2) @ 2.2 GHz, same DRAM, VRam is 256 w/ hybrid capabilities to 768 MB on a ATI Radeon 2600 HD.
Am hoping to find good 64bit GNU/Linux distro & GNU application (See new Editing Q?) that would be comparable to a MacBook Pro w/ Final Cut but have 2 different machines for less than or the same Apple price.
Second, with respect to burning your video to DVD (or 'HD DVD'). Let's clarify a few things here. HD DVD is a dead format. It used to be a competitor to Blu-ray, and it lost the format war earlier this year. If you meant to say burning an ordinary, standard-def DVD from your HD material, you must be aware that you will effectively be down-sampling all HD content into standard definition, which won't look any better than an ordinary standard-def camcorder (of $180 or so). In order to preserve original HD quality, you'll need to burn your final content in Blu-ray format. You can do this with a Blu-ray burner (which is way too expensive -- $25 per blank disc), or you can do some research and do the following. Using one of the Blu-Ray authoring tools (I believe most recent versions of Vegas or Pinnacle Studio can do this), finish your HD movie in Blu-ray format (with menus, if needed); make sure the movie size is within 1 hour and the final MPEG-4 compression level is set so that the total size of all created files doesn't exceed 7.9GB. Instead of burning the project onto Blu-ray disc, save it to your hard drive. Then, burn that onto an ordinary DVD+R DL (dual-layer) - $1 per disc. You can then play back this 'fake' Blu-ray disc in any standard Blu-ray player, and your HD quality will be completely preserved (1920x1080 pixels).
Outside of that, your post is very well said. One other thing. You can burn Blu-Ray HD content in HD onto a standard DVD disc. It'll only play on an Blu-Ray DVD player though. NERO does it for Windows, Toast, on the Mac. Nero 8, using Nero Vision will burn it to a DVD-R. Needs to be 1080i. But you will still need a Blu-Ray player/Playstation 3 Blu-ray player to play it back and it’s only about 20 minutes worth on regular DVDs.
Speaking of PS3s, the Blu-Ray that the PS3 has will not deinterlace the video as it plays. Meaning, it won’t knit the two together so you’ll need to rely on your HDTV display to deinterlace it.
Thanks for clearing it up; it completely makes sense.
As for Nero Vision, I didn't know about it (I'm a Mac person, so I know little about Windows solutions). What you are saying, though is that Nero Vision cannot do 1080p? If that's the case, it is my understanding that, even if one uses PS3 as their blu-ray player, pretty much any modern HDTV will deinterlace that (originally progressive) image.
Here are my wants: Film (most footage is of my 4 kids and their activities) in highest quality available on HF100, burn raw AVCHD to DVD for permanent backup. I want to do farily basic video editing, burn to standard DVD to view in PS3 in high def and burn to standard DVD so parents can watch on standard DVD player. Almost everything I have read online says that transferring, editing, rendering and burning takes hours and hours for <= 1 hour of footage with studio and mac. I do not want to wait hours and hours and hours (expecting too much maybe?) I am sure in the future (> 12 months) I will get a blu-ray burner and want to take the previously edited footage and take advantage of the blu ray advanced menu options, but in the meantime I still want to record in 1080, edit in 1080, burn in 1080 and view in 1080. Ideally, I would also like to take some old footage from my Sony mini DVD recorder and combine with some of my new HF100 footage to make a few movies of the kids in their particular sporting events. I do not want to lose the original HD quality throughout the process except for copy intended for my parents standard DVD player.
I think my biggest stumbling blocks are whether to get a new laptop or desktop and whether I should switch to Mac or stay with PCs. I prefer laptops for their portability but understand to get the power I need I will have to spend quite a bit more than I would on a desktop.
I can get a Dell / HP desktop with the following comps for just under $1600. Before the slash is Dell component and after slash is HP component. Personally, I think I could downgrade this some and still have good performance with Studio 12 or PD7.
Intel� Core�i7-920 (8MB L2 Cache, 2.66GHz) / Intel(R) Core(TM) 2 Quad processor Q9650 [3.0GHz]
Vista 64 Bit / Vista 64 Bit
6GB Tri-Chan DDR3 SDRAM at 1066MHz - 6 DIMMs / 6GB DDR2-800MHz dual channel SDRAM [2x2048,2x1024]
750GB - 7200RPM, SATA 3.0Gb/s, 16MB Cache / 500GB 7200 rpm SATA 3Gb/s hard drive
ATI Radeon HD 4850 512MB / 512MB ATI Radeon HD 4650 [DVI, VGA, HDMI]
20 to 24 inch flat screen
If I go the PC route, I am leaning towards Studio 12 plus or ultimate. PD7 is on my list as well but they do not list on their site nor will they tell me via email if PD7 supports the HF100 and they do not have an 800 number for support... Probably 90% of the reviews and discussion boards I have read about Studio 12 is that it is VERY, VERY slow with AVCHD.
I think with the laptop option in order to get the horsepower I will need I will need to spend well over $2000, unless I go with a macbook. The confusing thing is that I keep getting different answers from BB employees, MacStore employees, apple experts on apple chat, reviews and message boards. Via some of these mac sources, I have been told that I can do what I want to do with the macbook 13.3 white for $999 and have been told by the other mac sources that I will need to get the MacBook Pro for $2000.
So, based on my wants in paragraph 2, can you provide your opinion based on your experience to the following questions?
PC Route
1. Will the components listed on the Dell or HP above allow Studio or PD7 to work very efficiently? Could I even downgrade a bit and if so, on what comps? Perhaps the video card?
2. What about the AMD Phenom Quad Processor? I didn�t list a computer with this processor but that option is available in desktops and is usually cheaper. If you have had luck with AMD, what size processor do you recommend?
3. Is there a big computer horsepower demand difference between PD7 and Studio 12?
4. Do your recommend PD7 or Studio for a beginner and for what I want to do?
5. Can I run other applications such as IE, Word, Excel or Quickbooks on the computer while PD7 or Studio is transferring, editing, rendering or burning?
6. If I go the desktop route, will I absolutely need anything else besides the appropriate computer, software and blank DVDs?
7. Are my research findings correct that in order to get a powerful enough Dell, GW, HP or Asus laptop, I will have to spend > $2000.00.
Mac Route
1. What is the lowest level MacBook required so that I am not waiting hours and hours to do what I want to do using iMovie and possibly FCE? I was very close to getting the 13.3 aluminum for $1599 but changed my mind at the last minute. I was also told by several that you do not need near the processor or RAM on a Mac that you need on a PC to run the same software.
2. If the $1599 Mac will work, will I see a big performance difference between Mac and the PC options above?
3. Can I do everything I want to do in paragraph 2 above seamlessly with Mac?
4. Are there big advantages / disadvantages of iMovie and FCE vs PD7 or Studio?
5. What are advantages of Mac over PC?
6. What are disadvantages of Mac over PC?
7. If I go the Mac route, will I absolutely need anything else besides the appropriate Mac and blank DVDs? I suspect I will probably want to get FCE ($150), iWork ($50) and an accidental coverage plan (~$400) since I have 4 kids running around the house.
8. Is the more expensive Mac route really worth it?
Any other words of wisdom, advice or thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Either Mac or PC route will be fine. I will avoid presenting all the arguments in favour of Mac, since it usually brings up the old Windows vs. Mac debate. I know it will work extremely well; it is stable and robust. For working with HF-100 (which I've had for 9 months, since it came out), the difference between PC and Mac is as follows:
1. On Windows, you edit AVCHD files directly. That requires EXTREMELY fast PC (if files are at max bitrate). Also, if you slap on some basic visual effects or transitions, the real-time rendering would turn into a slide-show. On a Mac, you don't edit AVCHD directly (not in iMovie or FCE/FCP; Adobe CS3 or CS4 actually DOES edit AVCHD directly, with same performance issues as PC). Before editing, iMovie or FCE will transcode your movies into much more manageable codec (AIC -- Apple Intermediary Codec). That stuff can be edited on an Intel Mac of any generation (even older ones).
2. On Windows, software such as Pinnacle Studio (or Vegas, or ULead) can edit AVCHD, render Blu-ray (or standard-def DVD) and burn it on Blu-ray or DVD-R discs. It supports standard blu-ray encoding, AVCHD encoding that's compatible with blu-ray players, as well as ordinary SD MPEG-2 (your everyday DVD player). It works well, but demands really, really powerful PC. On Mac, you'll need to buy Toast 10 in order to have similar functionality; iMovie doesn't have its Hi-Def iDVD counterpart (yet). iDVD will do SD DVDs effortlessly; to create HD optical media, you'll use Toast.
As for the time and effort to do this, both PC and Mac will need hours to encode the video, but you can continue to work on other software while encoding goes in the background.
As for Mac software, you probably won't need FCE. The new iMovie has significantly expanded feature set and just might give you enough power for your needs. Spend the money on Toast with HD plug-in instead.
1. With a Mac, do I have the option to burn the AVCHD raw format to a DVD for permanent backup?
2. I assume the AIC can only be edited on a Mac. Therefore, keeping a copy in AVCHD is all the more important if I ever want to work with the same video in a PC right?
3. You say EXTREMELY fast PC for AVCHD...will either of the above desktop builds fall into the extremely fast category?
4. Do I lose the HD quality when transcoded to AIC?
5. I assume the AIC can only be edited on a Mac. Therefore, keeping a copy in AVCHD is all the more important if I ever want to work with the same video in a PC right?
6. Based on your experience, what is the smallest macbook I can get that will still perform well for what I am trying to do?
7. So iMovie / iDVD will allow me to burn an SD DVD but I will need Toast to get HD quality that will play in my PS3 or any other blu ray player? I assume I get the same quality as burning AVCHD directly to a disk and sticking in my PS3?
8. What mac do you use to edit your HF100 video?
Thanks again!
While waiting for James's official answer, here are my own to your questions:
1. Yes. Whenever I came close to filling up an 8GB card, I just burn it as a data disc onto a dual-layer DVD-R DL. I store it away and don't think about it. Some Blu-ray players can actualy play that disc directly, although I don't have such a player to confirm.
2. AIC is a QuickTime codes, so it can be played/edited wherever QuickTime exists (i.e. even on Windows XP). However, keeping a copy in AVCHD is always a good idea, especially since it's rather cheap (about $1 per blank dual-layer DVD disc).
3. The specifications of your PCs seem quite sufficient. You should be able to get fairly smooth AVCHD playback with that (as long as you're on XP; with Vista, I'm not so sure, but I can't back it up with personal experience).
4. When you transcode into AIC, it takes all the pixels encoded in AVCHD and converts them into a format that is much easier to edit. While it is NOT a lossless format (therefore, you theoretically lose some image information in the process), the loss is much less significant than the AVCHD artifacts (in other words, it is impossible to see, even for professionals).
5. see answer to No. 2.
6. Any new MacBook will smoothly edit AIC without effort. The only issue is hard disk space, since AIC takes up 10 times as much space. Therefore, for one hour of HD video from HF-100 (8GB), you'll need about 80GB of free disk space. An external USB2 or FireWire (with a white MacBook) drive with plenty of space will solve that problem easily (500GB can be had for about $60 online).
7. With Toast, you'll get practically the same quality as if burning AVCHD directly to a disc and sticking it in the PS3. Practically, but not exactly, since on a Mac, you'll be converting the video from AVCHD to AIC and back. As I said, the difference is really impossible to view.
8. I have an Aluminum iMac (2GHz), as well as a white MacBook (2.2Ghz, Core 2 Duo). They both have 2GB RAM.
I hope this helps!
6. Any new MacBook will smoothly edit AIC without effort. The only issue is hard disk space, since AIC takes up 10 times as much space. Therefore, for one hour of HD video from HF-100 (8GB), you'll need about 80GB of free disk space. An external USB2 or FireWire (with a white MacBook) drive with plenty of space will solve that problem easily (500GB can be had for about $60 online).
If the AIC transcodes to 80GB, how do you then burn that to a DVD. Is it again converted to some other format to make the size smaller?
6. Any new MacBook will smoothly edit AIC without effort. I assume because macs are supposedly much more efficient and it is converted to AIC, a much smaller horsepower machine can work with HD?
That $1600 MacBook would probably work fine for basic video editing, but I'd spend a few hundred more and get a faster processor and double the RAM. And I would recommend FCE. I say that because frankly, ever since Apple redid iMovie from the ground up, they took out a bunch of features and dumbed it down terribly (so much so that they offered iMovie 06 as a direct download for dissatified iMovie users). But it the 08 version did support AVCHD. I haven't had a chance to play with iMovie 09 yet, but I have heard that they address some of the gripes that users had about the new version. So there may be hope. But Final Cut Express is a great interface which will allow you to do much more than capture, trim and burn.
As for the PC side, like I said, you could run Windows on the MAC using boot camp or Parallels and still edit in a Windows Environment. But Pinnacle is no longer the only editing software that supports AVCHD natively. Adobe Premiere Elements 7 does as well now and I really like PE. And you can't argue with the price ... $89. The beauty is that no matter what you go with, just about all the editors are available as Demo Downloads, so you can try each before you buy and determine which one you like best.
I wish there was a way to get beyond the time it takes to encode the video when editing, but unfortunately, there just isn't. The faster the processor and more RAM you have, the faster the encoding will go.
PC ... if you're doing video, you should probably go 64 bit as the advantage is that you can use over 4GB or RAM. But there comes a point where the performance bump plauteaus and it just doesn't justify the expense. And that is around 8GB IIRC.
And here's a tip on your video import. Rather then importing at 1080i, import at 540p. You'll get about 95% of the quality for less time importing and encoding. And it takes up less space as well.
Do you need iWork? That's Apple's office software, which you won't need.
Also, I agree that TOAST is going to be the best way to burn to HD DVD. But you also have an extra advantage having a PS3. With the cost of Blu-ray discs still hovering around $10 a pop, you can actually burn HD to Standard DVD and play it on a PS3 Blu-ray player. You won't have a ton of time on it, but it's an option for small, short videos.
Finally, with the latest models of Macs, you can only get firewire available through the Pro series, as Apple has foolishly dumped firwire in the lower models in favor of USB2. Which, IMNSHO is an epic fail.
Outside of that, I don't think I can add any more to what's been shared. To sum up, I recommend the MAC, Final Cut Express, and importing as 540P.
Hope that helps.
I don't think there would be any use for FireWire with new tapeless HD camcorders; none of them have it and they only use USB2 to transfer AVCHD files. So, the loss of FireWire on the new MacBooks is pretty much inconsequential for vast majority of consumers moving to HD. Having said that, if money is a serious constraint, even the sub- $1,000 white MacBook is capable of editing HD without trouble. The screen is indeed small, but on a low budget, I'd still recomment that any day, rather than a bigger-screen Windows laptop for the same money.
My suggestion regarding Final Cut Express was to hold off with purchase until seeing iMovie 09. I got it, tried it and switched from FCE to iMovie 09 for most of my HF-100 editing. It is indeed significantly better than the 08, which was, at least for me, practically useless. For home movies, and even for some more ambitious work, iMovie 09 gives a lot, so $150 is an expense that could potentially be avoided.
I understand the following:
1. Both of you have used both Macs and PCs for AVCHD editing and both prefer a Mac over PC, regardless of PC's horsepower.
2. I see above and have read other reviews that iMovie 08 was stripped down. 09 appears to be better. I suspect iMovie 09 will work for my basic editing needs. I can save $ on FCE by seeing if iMovie 09 meets my needs.
3. Need Toast if I go the Mac route to burn HD quality on standard DVD to view in HD on my PS3.
4. James says $1600 mac will work but I assume recommends the step up to Pro based on his comment to spend a few hundred more to get bigger processor and double Ram...and more real estate. Predrag realizes the budget concerns and says $1000 mac is capable of what I want to do. It is obvious that the more horsepower the better my results and performance going the Mac or PC route.
Clarification Questions:
1. James = "You won't have a ton of time on it, but it's an option for small, short videos." Nick = How long of an HD movie can I burn to a standard DVD?
2. If the AIC transcodes to 80GB, how do you then burn that to a DVD? Is it again converted to some other format to make the size smaller?
3. Predrag = "Any new MacBook will smoothly edit AIC without effort." Nick = I assume because macs are supposedly much more efficient and it is converted to AIC, a much smaller horsepower machine can work with HD?
4. Do you mind sharing why both of you prefer the Mac for my needs considering the lower the expense the better? I still see the Mac route as being much more expensive, especially if I go above the entry level Mac. Both routes provide the editing I want. Keep in mind, never used a Mac except clicking a few icons at BB and Apple Store.
5. Never really heard either of your thoughts on why to not go the PC route. Perhaps because you are biased toward macs because that is your daily computer...?
6. With all the transcoding going the Mac route, the human eye can really not see the results of the degradation?
I'll chime in again (by the way, no tension anywhere; it's just that sometimes I tend to be vocal in providing my opinion).
Basically, you got everything right. Here are my own answers to these:
1. AVCHD can squeeze more than an hour of HD on an 8GB dual-layer DVD, but the actual length will depend on the bitrate. Original AVCHD files from HF-100 use 17Mbps, which puts one hour. If you lower the bitrate to 12Mbps (and resolution to 1440x1080), you can put 80 minutes of video.
2. the 80GB of data in AIC is used for editing. When you export, you'll be creating MPEG-4 files, which will be compressed depending on your target format. As answered in 1, if you encode at 17Mbps, you can squeeze full hour on DVD-R DL.
3. The main reason is not so much that Macs are much more effficient (perhaps only slightly); it is the AIC. In Windows, you'll usually edit AVCHD directly (most tools have workflow set up for that, and transcoding into something similar to AIC is a bit complicated process).
4. and 5. Well, this goes back to the Mac vs. PC argument, with a twist. For the most part, you get much better reliability with Macs. In windows, oftentimes, something won't work. Your AVCHD files won't be properly recognised; your software may not find the codec, and in general, you may have stability or performance problems. Macs have always been famous for their consistent and intuitive interface. The software package that comes with them is smoothly and tightly integrated (your iTunes music and iPhoto pictures are available in iMovie, as well as all the short movies captured with a digital picture camera), I've seen people (such as my wife) who have never used anything other than a web browser intuitively transfer video from the camcorder, edit it, create titles, transitions, add music, even narration and export it to DVD with chapter markings. It is smooth, fast, intuitive and reliable.
If you are a person who is extremely proficient in computers and IT in general, you will probably quickly figure out any software and the usability differences may be less significant to you. Still, it generally makes it easier and faster to use software that requires fewer mouse movements or mouse clicks to accomplish things. And on a Mac, especially with Apple's own software, everything is generally very carefully designed to require as few mouse movements and clicks as possible. In the long run, a Mac investment ends up costing less than a Windows; a friend of mine has a G4 PowerMac from year 2001. He upgraded the OS to the most recent (Leopard), uses most recent versions on majority of Apple's software and the machine performs quite well. No ordinary Windows PC from 2001 can do anything meaningful with Windows Vista today (and most can't even work with Vista).
and finally, 6. Yes, even though the transcoding happens twice on a Mac (vs. only one on a PC), human eye won't notice the degradation.
I agree that with work a 13" MacBook could handle it, but 13" is pretty postage stampy. I was merely pointing out that a larger screen gives breathing space for working, and being that part of the issue was how long it would take to capture and encode, using a faster chip with more RAM would merely cut the time down.
ANd don't forget that even on a budget, using the MacMini with a stronger chip will save you money - even though I know you'd prefer a laptop. But the MAC works great largely because of the OS. It's faster, more secure, and as stated, AIC works more efficiently. And as I stated, if you import at 540p, rather than 1080i, you can get about 90-95% the quality at half the space. This saves time and resources.
In addition, if you're buying a new Mac, you get all the software you need to hit the ground running (save Toast, that is). It's all in. And while I still use both formats and edit primarily on Adobe Premiere, I have since moved to recommending the MAC because of it's security, software, and the ability to run Windows in dual boot, and that gives you the best of both worlds.
And again, Predrag is offering fantastic advice, no tension on my part, I can assure you of that.
thanks again :)
If correct, this camcorder seems like a better value then a hard drive HD unit. It's cheaper, more compact and has no moving parts and the HD cannot fail/break since it uses only memory cards. Decent 16GB cards costs only $37 now so they have gotten cheaper and will continue to go down in price for years to come. Opinions?
Video minutes that can be stored to Video HD memory card*
Card Capacity
Movie Format Resolution Bit Rate (Mbps)*** 8GB**
HD Super
AVCHD/H.264 1920x1080 17 1 hr.
HD High
AVCHD/H.264 1920x1080 13 1 hr. 20 min.
HD Standard
AVCHD/H.264 1920x1080 9 2 hr.
HD Extended
AVCHD/H.264 1440x1080 6 3 hrs.
Standard Definition XP
MPEG 2 720x480 9 1 hr. 50 min.
Standard Definition SP
MPEG 2 720x480
6 2 hrs. 45 min.
Standard Definition LP
MPEG 2
720x480 3 5 hrs. 10 min.
Additionally, Sandisk says that the HF100 will only accept up to 8GB cards. I think this is old information, but the recording times would still be accurate.
well the pros of having a hard drive are:
1.it's built in, you can start shooting instantly
2.nowadays it's common to see a hard drive of 100 gigs in a camcorder so space isn't much an issue
the cons:
1.it has moving parts which generates noise that can be captured by the onboard mic
2.the more the moving parts, the more it's prone to failure
3.once you've fiiled up the hard drive(eventually!!), you've gotta copy your files elsewhere before you can free up the hard drive and start shooting again
4.never put all your eggs in one basket! since you've got a lot of space in the hard drive, you tend to back up less..and should something happen to it, your files are gone forever
5.if by luck your camcorder survives a drop, chances are the hard drive won't
the pros of flash memory:
1.big storage in a compact size
2.no moving parts
3.consumes less power (means longer battery life per charge)
4.durable
5.copying files are easy using a card reader
the cons:
1.you need a class4 and above flash memory to record hd video which means it can get pricey to get a few(price is coming down though)
2.the biggest storage available now is 32 gigs which translates to about 4 hours of the highest definition video
well thats all i can think of at the moment, hope this answers your question :)
What are these moving parts on the hard disk drive?
And you mentioned among the cons for flash memory that i will need a class4 and above flash memory to record hd video. Could you elaborate on what that means.
Also, are you aware if a cannon camera with flash memory will work with Sony Vegas Movie Studio editing software?
a hard drive is made up of a few disks stacked together around a spindle (which spins at a couple of thousand times a second) with some gap in between them. in these gaps, little 'arms' with magnetic heads rapidly swing to read/write information from/to the disks. these are the main moving parts inside a hard disk that generate noise and are prone to failure especially if dropped.
at it's highest, the canon hf100 records hd video at 17mbps. flash memory with ratings less than class4 can't achieve this high transfer rate although i think you can still record albeit at a lower bit rate..i'm not sure maybe someone can please correct me if i'm wrong.
i have no experience with sony vegas movie studio but i did read somewhere about this guy that has no problem editing avchd files (the canon hf100 among others records video using this format) on sony vegas 8.
i hope this helps :)
I'm more in favor of the HV30, which still uses the venerable and tested miniDV tape. But since that isn't an option here, I'd recommend the HF100.
Also, flash cards can get corrupted.
I'm not saying that Flash isn't any good. I like that flash memory camera and it's definitely the future (until something better comes along). But it still beats hard drive and DVD based camcorders.
But from a purely archival perspective, I believe that tape is still a better way to go.
Both models will adjust to playing onto a standard def TV through direct connection.
Once you've finished editing your video, made sure it's less than 10 minutes, smaller than 1GB in size, and in an acceptable format, you're ready to upload it.
* Create a youtube account
* Click the upload button in the upper-right-hand corner of any YouTube page.
* Click the "Browse" button to browse for the video file you'd like to upload to our site. Select the file you want to upload.
* Click the 'Upload Video' button to start the uploading process.
* As the video file is uploading, enter as much information about your video as possible in the relevant fields (including Title, Description, Tags, and Category). You're not required to provide specific information, but the more information you include, the easier it is for users to find your video!
* Click the 'Save changes' button to save the updates you've made to the video file.
It can take from a couple minutes to an hour for your video to upload to YouTube. If you're receiving an error with your Upload, you might want to make sure you're attempting to upload a file that's recognized by YouTube. YouTube accepts video files from most digital cameras and camcorders, and cell phones in the .AVI, .MOV, .WMV, and .MPG file formats.
Video here ( google.com/support/youtube/... ).
But the bottom line answer is NO. There isn't a bi transport pipe for SD camcorders. It only goes one way to my knowledge.
1. When my 8GB card gets near full, I burn the data that's on it (everything, just as is on the card) onto a dual-layer DVD-R (a.k.a. DVD-R DL); I wipe out the card and continue recording;
2. When I want to watch some stuff that I recorded long time ago and is gone from the card, I pull out the DVD-R DL backup;
3. I copy all content from that DVD backup to a blank 8GB card;
4. I put that card back into the HF-100; I connect the camcorder to the HDTV (HDMI or component cables); Original AVCHD files play back exactly as they did when they were recorded.
It has been widely reported that many newer Blu-ray players can actually play these types of backups from DVD-R DL, where entire content of an AVCHD camcorder's memory was backed up. They treat it just like a Blu-ray disc, with full HD playback. This means you can have a full one hour of HD on a single DVD-R DL.
I strongly believe AVCHD at 17Mbps is better than HDV (which is at 25Mbps, but significantly inferior codec than AVCHD). Besides, HDV cannot record more than 1440x1080 pixels, while AVCHD records true full HD at 1920x1080 pixels. If I were buying today, I'd still buy HF-100 (or wait for HF-200, which should come out in a month or two). Tapeless is the way of the future, and AVCHD is riding that wave.
You're absolutely right. The debate about AVCHD vs. HDV is largely academic. Regardless of the 1440 vs. 1920 difference, John will no doubt be thrilled by HV30. After all, camcorderinfo.com still ranks it higher than any AVCHD model and considers it worthy for some professional applications as a B-roll device. In addition, there are definitely a few features on it that are missing on a HF100.
By the time John is ready for the next camcorder, AVCHD will be quite mature, and computing power that will then be available will have erased all the performance issues AVCHD can cause today. HDV is robust and mature; AVCHD, while wave of the future, is currently the bleeding edge and from time to time, that blood shows.
So, I am hoping to make a decision this weekend after getting some feedback from users that are having good experiences editing avchd on macs and pcs. If you are out there, can you provide your real life experiences and specifically try to explain your thoughts on pros and cons of PC vs Mac for what I want to do buy using your real life experience with your workflow.
If I go the pc route I would probably buy the new i7 2.66 (dell) or at least a 2.66 quad core (HP) with at least 4GB of RAM and a decent video card. If I go the mac route I would probably get the iMac 20 or 24 with at least 2.66 processor. Would either of these pc / mac configurations allow me to accomplish these things:
1. record at highest quality
2. easily transfer avchd footage to computer
3. I currently feel the need to permanently save my raw avchd footage but this may not be necessary.
4. edit by adding fades, effects, music, menus and titles
5. burn to standard dvd in SD for friends and burn to standard dvd in hd for my PS3. I do think I will get a bluray burner in the future.
6. I have days of raw old family footage on DVD from my old hi8 and minidvd camcorder that I would like to edit and possibly merge with the new avchd footage.
I would of course like to do all of this efficiently and with no crashes…I realize no crashes is wishful thinking but the fewer crashes the better.
If you are a pc user, what software do you use and what version of that software?
Does the video card have a big impact on stability and efficiency? I think one of the editors is optimized with nvidia cuda technology?
Are there any all-in-ones by dell or hp that can handle avchd editing?
I think it is ok.
The reason I'm asking is I sometimes shoot ballet competition videos and most of the time the video is projected live on a big screen.
I mostly pause in between contestants (judges taking forever to give marks/make up their minds etc) to save precious space.
I've come across forums where people were complaining about incompatibality issues between Canon AVCHD files being edited with Sony Vegas. Is this true?
I also read of core2 quad processors giving problems when editing/playing AVCHD files. Is this true?
Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
Is it necessary to use Sony Motion Browser to import the files to my pc? Can't I just copy the files directly from the SDHC card?
In your opinion, what are the minimum specs that a pc needs to be in order to edit/playback mts files smoothly?
Thanks again.
Canon shows the min reqs here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). But essentially, I would go with a Core 2 Duo and as much RAM as you can afford - and if 4GB and above, you're going to want to use 64 bit vista as it can handle RAM over 4GB and 32 Bit can't. A good 7200 RPM hard drive is good to boot.
I actually went ahead and got this camcorder yesterday :)
Many thanks to James and also to Camcorder HQ for the answers to my questions. I might just write a review of this camcorder!! Haha....
You have to copy those mts files to your computer and use an editor that supports mts format render/export it as mpeg4.
I dunno, I could be wrong... anybody like to chime in their 2 cents?
Thanks much,
M
Canon Vixia HF100 Camcorder Reviews
Canon Vixia HF100 Camcorder Reviews by Camcorder HQ Users
- 4.0 out of 5
Considering the Canon HF100 camcorder is over a year old and with a new model out, the price still hasn't dropped that much. I reckon it's because the demand is still there cuz I had difficulty finding one.
After using it for some days, this little camcorder delivers everything it promises..at least for what I'm using it as. Videos are clear and sharp. Audio is great. Recording to SDHC card is a dream come true! I did notice some noise during low light shots but lets face it, every consumer camcorder out there at this price range has noise at these lighting conditions.
I'm using the PAL version and I edit in my friend's Sony Vegas Pro 8c. Everything worked as I thought it would be. After shooting, I just take the SDHC card and copy the files to the hard drive. Then I open those files directly in Vegas and start editing. It's as simple as that! 50i or 25p, no problem. No transcoding or whatever. One thing though, your PC needs to be fast. Really fast. My friend's laptop has a Core2 Duo P8600 with 3 gig ram and it struggles just to play the mts files smoothly. I'm not saying it won't play. It plays but it's jerky..well at least I can edit on them.
I did find 2 small design flaws.
In the movie recording mode, if you were to output the video via the av output to an external monitor, be sure to use a widescreen tv or else the video would look out of shape - everything looks taller. There's an option to output to a 4:3 or 16:9 tv but only in the playback mode.
Another thing is if you've got something plugged into the av/headphones out during playback, the video in the LCD screen would shrink to about 75%. It's annoying when you just want to view the last scene recorded with your headphones plugged in. Minor issue but for whatever the reason, only Canon knows why.
Apart from those 2 little things, this camcorder is trully amazing. Well I guess it's safe to say 'goodbye good ol tape' and hello AVCHD!
- 3.0 out of 5
-Harga
-pitur
-keunggulan
-kekuranganya
- 5.0 out of 5
This videocam is superior to its peers, namely the latest from Sony and Panasonic. The only clear technical difference is low light performance where Canon edges Sony by about 50% and is over twice as good as Panasonic. The HF10 and HF100 are identical except that the HF10 offers 16 GB internal NAND memory at an additional $200, a feature that makes no sense since 16 GB SDHC cards are presently one third that price. Some people still have a personal problem with the newer MPEG4-based AVCHD format in these solid state memory videocams...technically, the new format is superior (no, we didn't step backward) and software is now available to make editing an equivalent task, with equivalent results (not the incurrence of multiple loss factors from converting, as some contend). Optical stabilization and autofocus comparisons between Canon and latest Sony vary slightly, with some reviewers giving one an edge over the other...apparently these factors are negligible, as difference are on par with slight manufacturing variations. Finally, since the older technology Canon tape variants use a slightly larger sensor, low light performance measures slightly better, a difference too small to be noticed. These things considered, the HF100 is clearly the best in show...unless you wish to remain with tape (and the prospect of inevitable mechanical failure).
- 4.34186991869919 out of 5
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sp mode-7mbps=2hrs20min.
xp+mode-12mbps=1hr25min
fxp mode-17mbps=1hr
I'm not an expert videographer so I can't answer the other questions. Look for CNet reviews.