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canon a570 low battery indicator
My canon A570 IS has battery indication problem after about 40-50 shots using Uniross 2100mAh rechargeables...is it due to the batteries..what do you advice??should I go for 2700 mAh batteries,and whether I can use 2700s with powershot A570?...Moreover would my uniross mini charger I am using for 2100s can charge 2700s or would I have to buy a new charger....If so plz suggest some good 2700mAh battery+charger combination.Thanx
2700 mAh NiMH batteries will work with your A570IS, and should net you around 300 pictures.
I'm not sure about the "uniross mini charger...for 2100s" you're referring to. But as for battery chargers, I've personally had a good experience with this one.
It's bulky, because it's universal and can hold 8 AA batteries at a time. But it's a nice slow recharge, allowing you to recharge batteries seemingly forever. You don't have to worry about taking the batteries on time to avoid them getting hot. And the charger will charge batteries until capacity. I myself bought Sony 2,500 mAh batteries and haven't had a problem with those, either. But Energize, Sony and Rayovac are all good rechargable battery brands.
Some examples: $20 for Canon brand.
I'd get 2 packs of these (here too) instead, personally. Especially if you end up getting (or have, and it works) a 4-battery charger.
I like this web site: http://www.thomas-distributing.com/index.htm
for information and of course items for sale. They sell a MAHA charger, which is advertised as state-of-the-art. I have the MAHA Powerex MH-C204W charger, which can do 4 AAs or 4 AAAs at one time. You can mix these: 2 AAs, and 2AAAs, etc. And it has a topping-off feature; you can leave the batteries in there indefinitely, and every 10 seconds it zips a little charge in them.
Most importantly, the Thomas Company has been reliable & the web site is easy to use; I have placed two orders with them over the last couple of years, and everything went like clockwork.
Just bought mine a 2 weeks ago. Seems to me like it is a camera problem. With fully charged battery, it can simply show the low battery sign after a few shots. Thought it is a battery problem but the voltage seems to be ok at 1.29V. Will check with the dealer to see if this is a problem or will think of getting back to the service centre.
As at the beginning of the thread I said I have the same problem.I did a lot of research and have come across an interesting article regarding this problem,which the author claims is a regular phenomenon with the powershots.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=256613&highlight=A540+battery+life
http://www.users.on.net/~mhains/Reviews.html
I think the high battery voltage level cutoff for a570 might be the issue(and our battery is attaining it after a few shots owing to a steep early-life discharge curve),and if such is the case,as the guy claims,using an NimH with has a very good voltage vs usage curve should solve our problem.
After a lot of browsing,I have come to the conclusion that either Uniross 2700mAh or Sanyo 2100mAh or Powerex 2700mAh,in that order,should solve the problem.I would definitely get a set of them next time I go to the nearest city,but meanwhile,I reccomend you to try the same and inform me here if u have success
Wishing you best of Luck
Do Inform me!!
It might be hard to believe, but 1.29 volts is not that great. I have been taking voltage readings for several years on "suspect" batteries---to see if I should toss them---and have found that (with 1.5volt cells) 1.20 - 1.25 volts is pretty much too low for electronics. Obviously a low voltage would be OK for a flashlight, if you didn't mind the diminished light.
My point is, 1.29 volts is not much higher than this threshold of 1.25. And as ND points out, this particular camera might have a higher-than-average cutoff threshold. In fact, this is from imaging-resource.com:
The Canon PowerShot A570 IS uses two AA batteries for power, and a pair of ordinary alkaline batteries are included with the camera. Runtimes are increased with NiMH batteries over alkalines. As always, we strongly recommend you pick up a couple of sets of good-quality NiMH rechargeable batteries and a good-quality charger, as they'll save you many times their cost over the life of the camera. (Do be sure to get good-quality batteries though, we found our sample of the A570IS to be a little finicky, insisting on good, high-capacity cells or it would shut down after relatively few shots.)
Rich
U have made a god point,but the thing is that once the battery is loaded and being used in the camera,it is much lower than 1.29 volts.
This is because every bettery has an internal resistance,which even if .1 ohms(every major NimH has infact more than that),and if the current usage by camera is 500mA,again a reasonable assumption with flash,screen and IS on,the battery voltage is effectively 1.23-1.24 volts only).
So to be on the safer side always,a very good brand is required.
I would appreciate if you could suggest one.
The A570 has a 2.5 inch LCD; perhaps it is high-res as well? Naturally that would eat more power than a smaller screen, or even a same-size screen with lower res. Of course auto-focus uses power, as does the IS. One can see why the larger cameras, like the Canon S3-S5 and A640 are designed to use 4 AAs instead of just 2.
Thanks for the comments. A couple of points which I would like to add:
1) The NiMH battery that I have is a GP battery with typ voltage of 1.2V. And the battery recommended in the brouchure is I think also 1.2 V typ. If the cutoff point is 1.25V, then we it is really a design problem.
2) I did try without turning on the screen, I can continue to take shots with no issues. But that is an unacceptable solution right?
3) I will be calling the Canon person and try to see if they have similar issues documented to see if they can fix this by software. Seems to be an issue which would have been surfaced during the field trial.
Will update if there is any fixes for this?
Thanks
It may not be exactly the issue here, but it can certainly contribute without you knowing it.
I did spoke to one of the repair centre person and was told that it could be some cold solders on the board etc. But having 2 new cameras in a row is pretty unlikely unless their quality is so bad. Hate to send in a brand new camera for repair though. This is a bad experience for me as my previous IXUS400 have no such problem at all.
as i had pointed out earlier that either Uniross 2700mAh or Sanyo 2100mAh or Powerex 2700mAhor even energizer 2500,in that order,should solve the problem.I would reccomend you to try the same and inform me here if u have success
Thanks for the advice. I'll just go down to the service centre today to let them take a look. Another person that I talked to at the service centre also mentioned that it could be due to the battery. I would want to feedback to them that then they would need to tell the dealer not to give out the GP2300 battery as a free gift if it is not compatible.
Will update to see what is their feedback.
That's peculiar,because energizer 2500s are one of the best cells that can be used with 570IS,as their voltage curve remains above 1.2 V for most of the discharge cycle.
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nh15-2500.pdf
Since your cam worked well with the alkalines,there is no problem with the camera.The problem must have been with the batteries/charger,there is no other way flash would have faltered.
So use another charger and use sanyo eneloops 2000/uniross 2700s this time.Service centre won't help as it is not a tech problem.
I purchased 4 sanyo eneloops this sunday.And haven't got the low battery warning after 96 shots.It is too early to say whether it is good,but would certainly tell after a few charges and discharges.
And yes,the first charge lasted for 240 pics,with more than half with flash and LCD and IS on full time. :D
Sep-12, I bought 4 eneloops 2000mAH for going on my small trip last weekend. I can see that the flashing low-battery show on LCD after I took a few shorts. I guess just about 10 - 15 shorts or less!! Yes, some with flash on and some not. I was tried to take photo and keep changing the battery all time, total photos are about 60-70 in my 1gb sd card.
oh, I'm using Uniross small charger, is that a problem? now, I might try some other brands like GP2700 or Energizer. Any advices?
Was told that with full charge, can take about 200 shots. Was also told that battery will drain out by itself if left in the camera for a couple of days. I mean this is really crapy. With my previous IXUS400, I don't remember having to keep charging my battery after leaving there for a long time. If I need to always remember to take out the battery every time after I go out to take some pictures, it's ridiculous.
Anybody out there has any idea what is the
1) Minimum voltage before we see the low battery sign? (Just for a reference as I guess it depends on the battery type, internal resistance etc)
2) How long can a fully charged batetry remains in the camera before it starts to show battery low sign when you power on?
3) If a fully charged batetry is left by itself, how long can it last?
Thanks
Amos
My eneloops are working fine.I don't know what might be the problem with Dokmai's batteries.Sanyo 2000s are giving 200+ shots and seem to retain charge.Even uniross 2100 seems to be getting better with each charge.
I looked for Sanyo at high mAh last week many shops in Bangkok but couldn't find it. so I bought a Commy Quick Smart Charger with 4 pieces of 2700 mAh batt last Friday and charged them all the whole night. Saturday, I took a day trip around Bangkok.. guess what? This time, I can take photos about 270 shots from only 2 batt from the first charge!! I still have another two batt leave for me to pratice on my camera shooting.
So get the big mAh as much as you can.. Have some spare is good but just a pair of high mAh is enough for a day.
ND, I'll charge my eneloops with Commy charger again, and see if I can use it.
Thanks Matt and all for your advices.
My advice would be that next time, we buy a camera, mak sure that it does not have this problem because it is a real problem. Just the other day, my wife borrowed the camera to try to take picture of my son getting a prize on stage. Just at the crucial moment, the camera shuts down. This sucks right?
What are others getting with this camera? WHile 90 isn't great. I guess without flash it would be much better but nowhere near the 400 they claim in their spec's.
THanks Tom
Has anyone sent their A 570 IS in to Canon ? I contacted them and they told me to bring it in. Is this just a proforma move with no solution? Is anyone getting a better battary yield?
Tnx Tom
I put a fresh set of Enloops, 2500 right from the charger into the camera. So what does this prove?
I am going to put another fresh set in, and let them sit and run the same test, probably in a few days and see what the difference is.
One possibility is that their is a drain on the batteries going on when the camera is off.
HAs anyone else had this or a different result. HAs anyone seen the batteries draw down when stored in the camera when not in use?
TNx, Tom
I suspect their is some kind of discharge gooing n when the batteries sit in the camera. A smaal dischargew is normal but it is possible there batteries are getting hammered in this camera.
Does anyone have any experience with fully charged batteries sitting in the camera and then having the degradation of power?
I really can't account for the 2,200+++ shots on the fresh eneloops, especially since the camera is rated for 400 in thespec.
I spoke to a tech at Canon and he sai I should get at least 200 - 300 shots with flash. I told him about the power issue and said that a lot were having problems with it. He said there was no "recorded" issue with it.. GRRR.
Tom
www.thomas-distributing.com/index.htm
They have Low-Discharge rechargable batteries which is what you should get that go up to 2,800 Mah and they are not expensive. The Sanyo Eneloops which are 2,000 Mah pack of 4 go for about $9.00 US. I am waiting to see how my Eneloops work out, especially since they seem to be getting better with multiple charges. When you buy the batteries it says they are fully charged, ready to go. I recommend you give them a full charge before using them. It is my understanding that MaH batteries do not have memory like a Nicad so you can charge them even when partially charged without degrading their capacity.
I got my camera about 3 months ago and I must say that there is definitely a design issue with the camera. The camera is supposed to cater to a range of battery. There are now so many complaints and even with people who uses very good high power battery. So the conclusion that I have is that the camera has a design issue and whoever that has a problem with this should try to send in their camera to canon and get them to check and repair them. Most important of all, get them to tell you the rootcause so that we can all know the real problem.
When I got my camera, I saw the problem. Thinking that it could be a defective set, I decided to change to a new set and the person was nice enough to change for me. But 2 weeks down the road, I saw the problem happening to my new set. I sent it down to the service centre and I collected 1 week later and they say nothing's wrong. But I still see the problem now. A FEW SHOT and the sign comes out even with newly charged batteries.
Please for the sake of the rest of the 570 user, please get canon to fix your camera. I bet they are telling their techs to not reveal the problem as it could become a global recall issue. But we should continue to pursue and see if we can get something done.
I am going to try the highest MAh low discharge I can find, around 2700 or so..at least this will give me the best "shot."
I will update and would appreciate any further feedback from you.
tb
I just put a new set of Eneloop's in the camera and I am going to let it set for a few days and see how this might impact the number of shots I can take.
How are you doing with straight flash photos? ANyone have some numbers to compare? I'm sure I would have gotten more if I hadn't shot the movies but I really wanted to give it a good test.
Tom
There is definitely an issue with this camera. My solution for now is to carry an extra set of batteries at all times. I'll see how long I can live with that.
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5500/dsc00243tu9.jpg
I'm having the same problem as well and my camera is 2 weeks old. The battery light keeps coming on. I haven't tried the Sanyo Eneloops yet, but since you guys swear by it, I'll pick some up. Do you guys have a preference on a charger as well (that doesn't break the bank)?
In the mean time, I took a mathematical approach. Since the specs indicated that 120 photos can be taken with the LCD screen on (and I also left everything else on.. like the flash) and 400 with LCD off (and I turned off the sound, the start up screen and such), that indicated to me that the ratio of flash photos to no flash photos was 30%. I performed a mix of taking photos with everything on and everything off and I got the same 30% before the 'replace your batteries' sentence came up. This yielded to about 250 photos taken during this test.
Although I hate seeing that flashing red battery telling me that my battery life is low (when I just put some new ones in, and not to mention that this situation is an utter annoyance), I was still able to continue taking photos. I'm guessing that even though the charge in the batteries are still good, I agree with the idea that the threshold on the camera to indicate that the batteries are low might be set too high.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
I use my camera with all the bells and whistles..I'd rather just carry a few extra batteries with me so I can enjoy an otherwise excellent camera. I carry four extra batteries plus the set of 2 in the camera. That will cover anything. When I travel, I take the little charger with me. IT fast charges 4 at a time.
I'd still be interested in any other metrics on how many shots you are getting so we can see if there is any consistency to this.
Thanks,
Tom
This is ridiculous, my camera is a month old, I paid 200$ and eats batteries like theres no tomorrow.
I should have gone with the Sony. The lithium batteries for the Sony are available everywhere.
like a fuji... this my first Canon in 25 years... probably last if they have deaf eared service.
Beside this small issue, taking its size, features and quality to price ratio, I think that a570is is a awesome camera.
tb
Maybe thyere is not only alone contact issue, but poor contact does matter here - I'm sure.
I have not taken many shots recently but have taken 60 so far on this set of eneloops with flash since 12/2 so that is 22 days with these batteries sitting in the camera. I just put the toothpick fix in so I will see how that works.
Jim: Please let us know how many shots you get with the toothpick fix before the low-batt light comes on again.
Thanks everyone. tb
I have also taken a file to touch up the positive and negative sides of the batteries and I also touched up the contact tips on the battery door with the file to try to make sure there is minimum resistance between the contacts and the batteries, at least on the battery door.
I am trying it and will let you all know what my results are. tb
I currently have 237 flash shots and still going without a low batt light. I will let everyone know how far I get until the light goes on and then how many more shots until it dies...
tb
John if you look closely at the positive contact on the batt compartment cover I suspect you will see the possibility of it being slightly out of alignment. The contact surface with the positive side is very small. I don't know if it is really the issue but I am leaving no small item untried. I refuse to have to live with the 25-50 shot battery issue. From the ideas shared on this forum it seems to me that we are reaching a functional solution.
tnx
tb
I am going to fresh charge a set and see what kind of voltage I get right out of the charger. The Eneloop is a low discharge battery so it is supposed to hold it's voltage discharge curve without too much drop off. Looking at the above referenced numbers it certainly appears it is working that way.
John, what kind of batteries are you running, Energizers ?- if so they didn't work for me..very disappointing and somewhat illogical that a lower 2000vnimh would work better.
tb
With High Performance Energizer 2850 NIMh rehargables I also got the 25-50 shot threshold low battery so I changed to the Eneloops.
THis is the latest update on my Flash Test with the following parameters:
1. Flash on ALL shots: ALL bells & whistles turned on: AUTO MODE.
2. Toothpick Fix on Positive Side only on battery door to assure best contact. (Not sure this is necessary but I am keeping it that way, can't hurt. See #3)
3. Filing both contacts on battery door to assure minimum resistance with battery contact. (Just touched them up so they were shiney).
4. 2000 Nimh Eneloop low-discharge batteries.
I started test with fresh batteries on 12/2 and wanted to see if time sitting contributed to battery drawdown. Today's date 12/29. My conclusion, this is NOT a factor.
I will now continue shooting until the camera will not fire anymore flash photos so I can get a total count.
I hope this information is helpful to all of us with A 570 IS challanges. Please continue to share your metrics so we all can get to the best solution.
Thanks to all of you for your contributions.
tb
After getting the first low-batt indicator - I was rapid firing the flash, I waited about 5 min before continuing. Then I would shoot 10-15 shots and then let it rest a bit and then pick it up and shoot somemore. As you know in reality almost no one shoots continuous flash shots anyway so ths is probably a severe test.
I went from 489 to 616 flash shots (same batt's) before the low-batt indicator came on the second time. I measured the Eneloop voltage and now it is 1.20v. Down from 1.21v previously. After letting it sit for about six minutes the Low Batt indicator is off again and I am shooting flash again in 10-15 shot bunches and then letting it rest for 5 minutes or so. I will keep doing this until the Low-Batt indicator comes on and stays on and report back with the numbers.
781 shots before low-batt indicator came on for 3rd time.: using flash taking 10-15 shots in a row and then letting it rest for 5 min-6min... I may be hitting it too many times in a row for the batteries to recover.
816 flash shots and low-batt indicator is flashing for 4th time. Measured the voltage about 1.15-1.17v.
What is interesting here is that the batteries recover very quickly and in normal use I think they would actually go much further without the low-batt indicator flashing.
I let it sit for another 3 minutes and now I'm up to 850 flash shots and still going - no low-batt right now, though it's got to be getting low on gas...
866 shots: Low-batt ind came on and is now staying on (was getting worried low-batt ind was broken, LOL)
Continued shooting until 970 shots when camera shut down and change battery indicator came on. Voltage 1.125ish.
As far as I'm concerned, CASE CLOSED at least for me. If anyone needs any further info, please post and I'll be glad to share whatever I can.
Thanks everyone for your help and interest.
Please add any comments or experiences you are having to this forum. Appreciate all your help. I will add any new info I get.
Best,
Tom
These marvelous results you got... are they
-with OR without toothpicks?
-with the Sanyo rechargeables?
-Also, what is the NiMH on the batteries you are using.
I have a friend very discouraged with the camera she purchased on my recommendation, because the batteries go sooo fast. I'd raher help her with this cam than recommend another battery hog!
Thank you,
DB
I am using the Sanyo Eneloop's they are 2,000 NiMH. They are a low-discharge battery - all that means is they hold their charge longer when they are stored vs a regular discharge NiMh - I don't know if that really matters in the scheme of things unless you leave your batteries in your camera for 6 months or longer. I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove them if you weren't going to use it for an extended time anyway. Actually I have no idea why they work better than the Energizer 2850 that I have that failed at 25-50 shots. I haven't tried them again since I switched to the Eneloops - but they might work with the clean contacts and the toothpick fix.
CHARGER: Another issue I discovered is the variables among chargers. I have found, at least on my Eneloop's that I get a charge up to 1.45v right out of the charger with a Sanyo charger and 1.35v 24hr later. The point here is I have another charger and they come out at 1.25v I think this might make a difference. The test I ran above was on the lower output charger 1.25v. so again this is a variable but seems not a do or die issue - just an observation. I have read above that a good charger can be very critcal with some batteries.
I have read that the ENeloops are rated for 1,000 recharges on a slow recharge and if you use a rapid recharger it cuts the battery life in about half. Since these batteries are now inexpensive, I don't think it matters. You can buy them at www.thomas-distributing.com for apx $9.00 US for 4. If you have a Costco they have a great deal for $25. for Eneloop's: 8 AA, 4 AAA and a Charger.
I really like this camera. You cannot use ordinary alkalines in it.
When I spoke to a Canon Tech about this problem they said to clean the contacts but they never specified what needed to be done. I think if you try the above you should be in good shape.
Let us know how it works.
Tom
God bless you! Happy New year!
-db
1) Even brand new cheapo alkalines (i.e. Walgreen's Ultra, No. American UltraLast) will effect a low battery or change battery condition immediately or within a few shots.
2) I have several NEXcell 2100 and Radio Shack 1600 Ni-MH batteries that do well in other devices but fail quickly in the A570Is. So, I figured I just didn't have good enough batteries and went on to try non-rechargeables. See number three, next.
3) The only non-rechargeable battery worth a darn is the Energizer e2 lithium.
4) Now here is the strangestness of them all: On Thanksgiving I was doing some shooting when the low battery warning showed. Fully expecting a couple of e2 lithiums to fall into my hands from the camera, imagine my surprise when I saw two Radio Shack 1000 ni-cads in my palm. Yes, nickel cadmiums a family member threw into the camera a few weeks earlier. I've rotated six of these ni-cads in two led flashlights for about five years.
5) Yet even stranger: About 15 years ago I purchased a Yaesu handi-talkie which came with a rechargeable battery pack. After a few years the pack gave out and I cracked it open to find four Sanyo 750 mAh ni-cads, two of which were bad. The other two have since been powering a portable AM/FM radio that gets daily usage. Just for grins, I tried them in the A570IS. I took dozens of flash shots over the holidays on the fully charged 750 Sanyos and they're still going.
I've tested several hundred non-flash shots with the RS 1000s before the low battery icon came on. I'm not going to hammer the camera or the flash to test these ni-cads to full depletion. Needless to say, I think I've found my batteries.
Go figure!
I worked in a shop a while back and we were having a problem with a particular group of battery powered equipment only ours were not rechargable. After getting in touch with a knowlegable service tech about the units working for a short time, then not powering back up, he said that we should have used duracell batteries.
He said that most of the other batteries would develop a film on ends of the batteries,causing a bad connection. We really didn't think there was that much difference in the batteries, but switching to the duracells solved the problem. My point is that different mfgs use different materials and this could make a difference in some of the results that you may be seeing. I am not endorsing duracells, because I don't even know if they make the nimh or not! I gave my daughter an a570 that is having the same trouble, so I'll be trying to help her find a solution with hers when she brings it over. May be that cleaning the contacts and batteries will help. I also try to avoid getting the oil from my hands on them after they're cleaned!
Let's see where are those toothpicks, I may need those too!
Thanks everyone for the info. if I find anything else I post back!
BOUGHT THIS CAMERA "NEW" TODAY along with a slow charging Duracell 2500mAh Charger and batteries. 10 minutes into taking general photos around the house, the batteries that came with the camera either died or were victim to the dreaded "low battery" warning or shutdown. I have come to realize after visiting this forum that it's the camera and not the batteries. It's not old batteries, dirty contacts, batteries left in the camera, mAh variances or any of the other scenario that has been thrown around this thread.
I fully charged the Duracell set and just 18 shots in, I either get the low battery warning or camera shut off. I played with the contacts but to no avail. I can clearly see the battery makes full contact with the contacts on the door so there is no connection issue there. The low battery warning is intermittent from turning the camera on and off and I was able to take dozens of pictures with the blinking red warning icon showing. At other times though, I'd get the "change batteries" text and the camera would shut off. Again, all with the same set of batteries.
Against my wife's wishes not to buy another PowerShot camera, (our A75 had similar full battery/no power issues a couple years into the purchase) the A570 IS was just taking fantastic pictures for the money ($179 US at BestBuy) and figured the power issue was taken care of.
The writing is on the wall here folks. This camera has some serious and annoying power issues and nobody should have to go on wild goose chases looking for batteries that "might" just keep this camera working. Mine is going back! Good luck and thanks for the thread.
As I was putting everything back in the box to return, I put the original alkaline batteries back in the camera and tried to see how many pictures I could take and now I'm snapping picture after picture without a single warning. I put the 2500mAh Duracell's back in too and out of say 60 pictures, shutting the camera on and off, switching each battery location (-/+,+/-), turning functions on and off, I only recieved the a low battery once and for the life of me I can't get it to duplicate which you know will also happen at the return desk. I'm going to try some Duracell 2650mAh's to see how those perform and I'll post the results. Maybe it's somewhere in the battery door since it is pretty fragile piece of plastic.
So, do I A) return it not even 24 hours into the purchase? B) try to exchange it for another one hoping this one was made on a Friday a minute before the bell rang for the weekend? Or C), spend $100 extra for the only other camera I liked at BestBuy? I'm kind of stuck there unless I want to get nailed with a %15 restocking fee and go somewhere else. You all don't need to answer, I'm just typing out loud. Just wanted to give you the update.
Or... and I say this because I believe its possible... after a short "break in period" it works. Could a contact need cleaning? I didn't and no toothpicks either.
At any rate I personally am very content.
It would be nice if it recovered quicker after a flash but I'm really enjoying short 30-45 sec videos. I load everything in the laptop and everyone coos over the new grandbaby. Much of which in low holiday lighting.
Glad I kept mine, good luck, John
I'm going to try the Canon SX100IS for about $80 more. I have read the reviews and although some still mention it's not the best on battery life, most give it about 250-325 shot count on 2500mAh batteries which is more than enough for my shooting style. Most importantly though, no talk of premature low battery warnings or instances of the camera just shutting off. I could go with another brand that they sell, but I'd like to stay with the SD format and stay away from cameras that use proprietary batteries.
Batteries - Eneloop 2000 NIMH?
Charger - ?
Toothpicks -?
Thanks
Greg
"Dale" on Jan 1/07 got it correct (and those people with the toothpick solution)! If you check out both reviews of this camera on the links below, both reviewers noted a problem with the battery compartment door and battery usage. These are the guys who tested for Canon! They thought it was just their "test" camera. One solution was to just open and shut the battery compartment door. It does appear to be a connection/contact problem rather than a battery problem. I suggested a friend buy the 570IS two days ago and we've been having the same problem with flashing battery warning after only a few shots. VERY annoying! Opening and closing the battery door did get rid of the flashing battery warning every time. I'm going to suggest cleaning the contacts better AND the "toothpick solution" immediately!
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/A570IS/A570ISA.HTM
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canona570is/
I do agree that the contacts and battery door are questionable, definately a design issue. I am enjoying my camera and it takes excellent photos. I just returned from Mexico with it. I hooked it up to the TV using the Video connection so I could view the photos on a larger screen - they were magnificent (at least to me- sunsets - vivid colors..etc.). My batteries did run down and started flashing after about 300 mixed flash/no flash shots but I reviewed my photos on the TV about 5X so I think that used a bit of juice not to mention turning it on and off a zillion times.
I am keeping an eye on it and will report here if I find the results inconsistent. However, I am satisfied with the camera and will live with it. OF course, if I had it to do all over again, I would not buy this camera I'm sure their are comparable cameras out there that would not require this investment of time and energy. However, since I rec'd this as a gift (from my wife :) I want to make it work. LOL
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Best,
Tom
Keep you updated with when they run out. So far, I'm pretty happy with it.
-PH
(1) camera shows dead battery with flashing red icon; additionally, optional (and free) software shows the battery at 2.1V.
(2) I open the door, and reclose it. Immediately after powerup, the voltage is back near 2.3V, and remains at that voltage steadily.
Note that pressing the closed battery door at various locations causes wild fluctuations in the displayed battery voltage; thus clearly some contact somewhere is to blame for apparent loss of power...
Try cleaning both the battery terminals and camera terminals by gently rubbing with a pencil erasor; this removes any blocking residue or oxidization. Or anything gentle action you could think of that causes better contact.
[I'm using brand new energizer 2500mAh NiMH batteries.]
So for me in any case, battery contact is the issue.
Could you clue us in on the free software that allows you to monitor battery voltage, if I understood your post correctly.
THanks,
Tom B.
After cleaning the battery contacts, and the camera contacts--including the ones deep inside the battery compartment--the voltage is now relatively constant at 2.4V, despite taking pictures for an hour or so. So, thus far the issue seems resolved (for me in any case).
I got my camera yesterday, hoping I would not get one with the low battery problem, but after taking about a dozen pictures, I am already getting it. I proably should just return it, but it is a nice little camera and just what I was looking for. But I don't want to go fooling around with adding toothpicks. I find the battery compartment door hard to close as it is and it feels rather fragile. If I break it, I won't be able to return it.
Does anyone know if Cannon makes a more reliable point and shoot in the same price range?
I have the same problem with the battery indicator.
Using Eneloops batteries resolved the problem.
Regards
First I need to update my January 1 posting and report that the Radio Shack 1000 mAh NiCads do in fact rapidly die out unlike the Sanyo 700 mAh NiCads which go on and on in the face of logic.
I am also experiencing rapid battery failures from lithiums, titaniums, ultras, supers and all sorts of similar non-rechargeables whose packaging is splattered with "lasts forever" promises. I also tried the "open and close the hatch" work around with mixed results.
I recently purchased a set of Maha Powerex 2700 mAh NiMH AAs which I can report work 100% in my A570IS and far, far longer than the Sanyo 700s I've been depending on.
Check this out: have a look at the contact on the battery door for the top (plus) of the AA battery. There are two spikes that've been pranged into the metal which one would assume are there to "bite" into the battery terminal. I don't have a micrometer, but the spacing between these spikes is about 3 mm. The diameter of the top contact of just about any battery I've got is... about 3 mm! EXCEPT for the Powerex at 5 mm and the rinky dink 700 mAh Sanyo at 6 mm. Just hold the top of an average AA up close to those two spikes and you can actually see they could never BOTH dig in! This could explain why the toothpick fix works - the contact is deformed enough for at least one of the spikes to dig in. Similarly, opening and closing the hatch might allow one spike to dig in until normal handling allows the battery to shift to an inefficient centering between the two spikes to evoke a low battery condition.
Clearly, the batteries with a larger diameter plus contact do the job for me. To help verify my experience, we need folks to report on the top diameter of the batteries they use successfully in the A570IS.
Will some one please measure and report on the highly popular eneloop?
It would also be interesting to see if Canon might have redesigned that contact. Does anyone have something other than two of those little spikes 3 mm apart?
I've also noticed at chdk.wikia.com there are two firmware versions for the A570IS but it's way too complicated trying to determine who has what and if the low battery issue might have been addressed by the later version (by means of easing up on the level at which the low battery warning is triggered).
By the way, isn't this pathetic?! I bought this camera so I didn't have to depend on some proprietary pricey battery pack. And here it is, not worth a darn even with a brand new pair of expensive lithiums!
Tnx,
Tom
Try this site..they sell them for apx $9. US for 4.
Like you I wish this wasn't a problem and shame on them for not addressing it but with the low cost of this camera I think the horse is out of the barn.
tb
Now if I could only figure out how to get a sharp pictue!! But I think that is operator error not the camera.
Tooth pick solution was brillent. Instead, I looked around and saw coke's packing (cardboard), cut it is small tiny piece with scissors and places underneath the positive terminal tab. Worked like a charm. TOOK 150 PICTURES WITH FLASH , battery used is 2000 mhz Digital battery , (from walmart too). Still can take the pictures but I don't want to push my luck. Darn thing hasn't taken more than 10 pictures at a time and now it can take more than 150 pictures. Can't wait until I tell my wife that I opened it and saw there was a problem and used my soldering thing to fix it. She will think that I am genious...LOL.
tb
It is shameful that Canon is selling millions of these cameras without acknowledging or trying to fix this problem. Anyone who uses this camera even once will immediately realize that the battery compartment cover is flimsy and prone to breakage. The first time I changed the batteries I thought to myself "Well, this isn't going to last very long."
I now have my Canon 570IS with a piece of cardboard in the battery compartment, and my Panasonic 3CCD video camera with a piece of mounting tape inside the tape compartment (to fix a completely different problem, that Panasonic refused to acknowledge or fix). Welcome to cheap Chinese manufacturing folks. When price becomes the only deciding factor for consumers, this is the junk that we get for our hard earned money.
I am 100% convinced it is the trap door + contact that is the culprit in this battery failure issue and ANY batt with a + term of 4mm or greater is the fix. Along with mangling the trap door + contact. :-(
Tom B and LKB!!:
What is the diameter of the + terminal on your eneloops?
Thanks.
I'd call those guys and see what they recommend. Make sure it is a better one, IMHO..though they are relatively cheap. If you have a charger now and a voltmeter you can check the voltage on your batteries and compare it to some of the readings I and a few others have taken and see if you are ok.
LEt us know.
BEst,
Tom
The eneloop is the best AA battery I have ever had during 45 years using rechargeables. eneloop is a new technology with far better characteristics than the standard nimhi types, no matter the maximum rating. And the price is right. A slow charger is recommended.
These links give more and better explanation than I can:
http://www.stefanv.com/electronics/sanyo_eneloop.html
http://www.eneloop.info/whatseneloop.html
Today, I put in 2 freshly charged 2100 uniross batteries, and immediately it told me to change batteries! I was shocked.. Then after reading the loose contact suggestions on this post, I tried to fiddle around with the battery shutter door...
I am 100% convinced now that it is a contact issue or whatever - something wrong with the battery door mechanism. Its nothing to do with the batteries we use..
The same battery which gave me "change batteries" error - now i have removed and reinserted, and closed the shutter little more firmly and gently .. now its working fine .. It has already taken some 25 shots with flash ..
Hope this helps ...
If you read further baclk on this forum you will see that several posters sent their cameras forf repair and got them back the same way or exchanged them and had the same issue. Also it seems one did an exchange and the problem was resovled. So it appears to be a faulty manufacturing process.
IF you read the reviews from a testers, they had the same problem with a prerelease sample but thought it was because it was prerelease. They gave it a thumbs up - and now this.
If you can exchange it you should - nobody should have to go through this. I got mine for a gift and it was purchased several months before I rec'd it - so I am stuck, so I had no choice but to seek a solution. This forum is the solution. MY camera works great now and it takes terriffic pictures without any battery issues.
Nobody should end up going through this. Condiering the low cost of the camera, I can't imagine Canon recalling it - shame on them...
tb
My canon A570 IS has battery indication problem after about 40-50 shots using Uniross 2100mAh rechargeables...is it due to the batteries..what do you advice??should I go for 2700 mAh batteries,and whether I can use 2700s with powershot A570?...Moreover would my uniross mini charger I am using for 2100s can charge 2700s or would I have to buy a new charger....If so plz suggest some good 2700mAh battery+charger combination.
Thanx
This tread could have been 2 threads. The battery contacts seem to be a problem identified and solved.
The other thread here is about batteries and has a lot of good information, invaluable to any digital camera user wanting to use rechargables. The new technology AA batteries can be identified by statements like 'Precharged' and 'Holds charge longer than standard rechargables'. These are inexpensive, give more pictures without recharging, and are a green alternative to throwaways. Available at Wal-Mart cheaply and others.
Eneloops are available at Costco and www.thomasdistributors.com
Good luck.
tb
Best,
Tom
For those not interested in the Toothpick Fix, I have published this short piece for those seeking a battery solution as well as an explanation of the issue. Please feel free pass on this link or print out the document for whatever reason you want:
https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=dfdjv7qt_10g2mwc7d6&hl=en
Here are your choices in batteries:
Sanyo eneloop 2000 mAh low discharge NiMH if you want this flavor of technology.
Maha Powerex 2700 mAh conventional NiMH with a kick.
Any alkaline battery with a top contact flat of 4 mm or more. These are hard to find and if you stumble on some, since they have a shelf life measured in years, snag a pair and keep them with your A570IS in the event you should find yourself with depleted rechargeables.
And if you need a charger:
The Maha MH-C204W (white plastic) or MH-C204B (black plastic) is featured with the eneloops at ThomasDistributing.com. This is a fast charger and will only do NiMHs.
I am partial to the slow charging Maha MH-C401FS because of its negative pulse technology, four independent charging circuits and its ability to handle NiCads.
Otherwise, any "conditioning" or "microprocessor controlled" NiMH charger you purchased within the last two or three years will work just fine.
BTW: Have you run the Powerex against the Eneloop's for a shot comparison? I'd be interested in knowing what the spread is.
Thanks for your contribution,
Tom
John
tb
tb
Jesus: what's your point?
Ramus: thanks for your report, tho it's not Good News.
ND: Powerex batteries are made by Maha, a world-wide leader for a looooong time. You didn't mention what city you're in or if you're in a region or country with restricted services.
Go to this site and see what your options are: http://www.mahaenergy.com/store/buy.asp
Otherwise, http://www.thomasdistributing.com or http://www.zbattery.com are A-OK.
Good luck.
Tried Amourek's toothpick trick - problem solved.
I'm so happy.:)
Unfortunately mine cost closer to $300 last year...GRRR..
Best,
tb
I've been following this post since last fall when my new camera started showing the battery alerts after a couple dozen photos. (see my post of dec. 5).
I tried the eneloops last month and they have indeed solved the problem. I've taken a couple of hundred pictures with one set of them and still no alert!
So I join the ranks of those whose problems are solved. And it is a great camera!
RS
I hear you on that!! In fact, I bumped into this thread about the battery issue when I clicked on the link at cnet showing it as the best cam for under $200. Under 200?! GRRR But, yeah, for $145 it can't be beat.
BTW: I picked up 8 AA and 4 AAA eneloops and a Sanyo N05 charger and a pair each of AA-C and AA-D adapters in a package sold for $26 at Costco. That's right, $26.00. At best pricing, separately that all would come to $58. I almost picked up two. But, I have no need for so many chargers and I want to wait a while and see if they boost them over 2000 mAh before I buy any more. Maha has 'em at 2100, so I think it's just a matter or time.
Amazon has the same deal for $37, still a good deal especially if you don't have a charger:
http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-Eneloop-Battery-Charger-Batteries/dp/B000WPJIME/ref=pd_sim_e?ie=UTF8&qid=1205969709&sr=8-2
Hope that link works. If not, do a search...
D77
Tom
I read a test report on this camera and it seems this camera has a battery DOOR problem the door is loose or something. it seems to fit loosely if I remember . interesting. perhaps this camera is designed so that one end of the contacts is pathed through a metal plate on the inside of the door cover and then through the hinges back into the camera. that may be why the problem exists. the hinge is loose because of play and doesnt get solid contact which might be remedied by a firmer contact (toothpicks pushing them out) putting tooth picks under the contacts (I havent seen the picture yet) pushes on the battery and hence the battery may push against the door to tighten the whole thing up.
i would be curious to see if the premium batteries that some are having success with are not actually just a part of a millemeter longer.
another thing I read is that these batteries need at least four complete charge and complete discharge times before they run at their peak ability. I am not sure if this is true with the higher tech nickle metal hydride or lithum ion whatever. worth a try charge fully and discharge the battery in other device that drains the batteries all the way down. run it to nothing and do this four time.s
by the way since this camera is older tech one of the few criticisms is the lower resolution lcd can any one comment on this to inform me if the camera has suitable viewing in most situations my wife and I both have eyesight that needs all the help we can get and are new to dig camera. we have seen later tech lcds in the store that are adequate but I am not sure if this lower resolution LCD will do it for us. for me a purchase will be made on line
With my Eneloop's I found that they seemed to work better with a few charge cycles. They are supposed to be ready to go right out of the package but I found that it didn't hurt to top them off first. I also give them a topping off before taking them on a trip eventhough they are a low discharge battery. I have the Canon camera case for this camera. It has a space for spare batteries and holds 4. More than enough for a an intensive week or 2 of shooting for me.
COnsidering online prices in the $150 range, this camera, problems and all, once addressed, is a good camera, IMHO. You must be willing to deal with the door/contact issue and have the correct batteries. The typical Energizer NIMH, etc batteries and many others that have been tried on this forum just don't work. Apply the info here and you should have a great camera.
Tom
Circuit city has one on display but the batteries were dead I didnt want to obligatet the clerk too much because their price is considerably higher than the average price I see around. I think Ritz has it for only $10-20 more than the low $140 I saw from Amazon partners but dont know who they might be , buying through amazon may have certain protections I have to check about return policy. paying an extra $20 from my local RITZ store may not be a bad idea anyway.
have to see if the wife will be okay with the lcc and handling she may even be more comfortable with it as it has a grip where the batts are. in the store they have the camera attached to an antitheft device and she is not perceiving what these cameras are like (small arent they?)
thanks for your advice. I have always been partial to Maha chargers and Powerex but will read through the battery selections posted above and meditate
just FYI
Thanks for the info.
Tom
Why am I considering this Canon A570 IS even though the problems its older technology Its only in the $150 range (for our first digital camera) and although it has its problems obvioiusly what has been discussed here, and although some of the canons have that e18 error which can totally trash your purchase 100% ($150 is better than $225 or even $300 for newer ones) I get total manual control which I think I want plus IS AND I can use CHKD with it. which is a freeware hack program that goes on your memory card and with it you can save your pictures in RAW format. Low light without flash the IS and higher ISO settings plus the ability to save in raw and then process in computer sounds to me like unbeatable for $150 or so!
thanks again for the help with this camera
Why am I considering this Canon A570 IS even though the problems its older technology Its only in the $150 range (for our first digital camera) and although it has its problems obvioiusly what has been discussed here, and although some of the canons have that e18 error which can totally trash your purchase 100% ($150 is better than $225 or even $300 for newer ones) I get total manual control which I think I want plus IS AND I can use CHKD with it. which is a freeware hack program that goes on your memory card and with it you can save your pictures in RAW format. Low light without flash the IS and higher ISO settings plus the ability to save in raw and then process in computer sounds to me like unbeatable for $150 or so!
thanks again for the help with this camera
Did u use chdk to change shutter speed to 1/20000 ? That's 10 times lower than the max allowed in manual mode with no chdk. Won't it damage the basic shutter functionality of the 570 IS in the long run ?
I havent obtained the camera yet, and havent worked with CHKD yet. I want to use it for saving in RAW plus the idea that you get a constant battery charge readout in your camera, how many shots left or percentage of battery. I suggest going to the CHDK page and I think there is a forum. I will be doing the same. you can search for CHDK wiki.
Some of the better chargers like the MAHA and the LaCross have a discharge charge feature which refreshes batteries that have been sitting you may get better results with that.
tb
- The Camera has great features. The IS works fine. Even my young daughter can take good shots with it.
- This battery problem is a very odd indeed. Using the original batteries, I took about 80 pictures, and something like 8 minutes movies at low rate. I measure the voltage on the batteries and they seem OK. They can operate my analog Ricoh nicely. Is this OK?? I think it disappointing to me.
The camera can still work in the playback mode though.
After the low battery indicator popped in, I bought some new Eveready, not alkaline, stupid I know but they work fine for my other camera. These never worked, the camera would shot down immeidtaelty or just take one shot even with the toothpick tricks.
In where I am there is no much variety in rechargables. Only Energizer at 2100 or 3000 or Varta at 2400 and so on.
Anyway, I think I will not buy Canon anymore. I previously had a Canon color printer and was a piece of junk.
I applied the toothpick fix to my a570, I used it with a new pair of Kodak Alkaline batteries (manufactered in 2006 !!) and was able to shoot 30 indoor pictures (all with flash) before the low battery indicator came up. (in comparison to 5 shots with the Panasonic batteries that came with the battery).
I want to ask if such number of photos makes it liable to say that the toothpick fix worked? Moreover, I am considering to buy rechargeables but only found that the only rechargeables in my city stores are Energizer 2000mA and 2500mA, will these rechargables give me good number of pictures, which one should i go for the 2000mA or the 2500mA.
Thank you all in advance.
YOu can purchase Eneloops from www.thomasdistributing.com They seem to work well for everyone. IF you look back in the forum to Nov, Dec 2007 there is much detail on what seemed to work. The issue with the camera is a manufacturing defect which does not affect all of the cameras - only the lucky few here.
tb
http://www.caig.com/
this company makes a pro line of contact cleaners and conditioners. I have saved this bookmark for years and first read about them from high end audio and ham radio resources.
I see that Radio Shack and Guitar Center now vend some of their products.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.28/.f
I am on my way over to RS today to see if they have this in stock. see the first product pictured on the page linked just above. From what I have heard of this product in the past, it is definitely worth checking out. For those not in the U.S. check out their distributor page.
I am certain I will be buying the Canon A720 which has most of the features of the A570 and 590 but is newer vintage, yes, with the same flimsy battery arrangement and the AA battery usage. ( has USB 2.0 but not high speed but I will live with that. takes SD but not SDHD but does take MMC cards which at this point I know NOTHING about) the lens is said to be much better than the other two. CHDK program under development for that model
just FYI and I would think that the two CAIG products are essentials for this and any camera (and bettery ends too)
thanks again to all for the dialog and recommendations I am also checking out the LaCrosse 900 charger and will be perfectly happy I think with the Enveloops
again great info, thanks!
TEST RESULTS:: 970 FLASH SHOTS until CHANGE BATTERY INDICATOR ..see below for test and results:
After getting the first low-batt indicator - I was rapid firing the flash, I waited about 5 min before continuing. Then I would shoot 10-15 shots and then let it rest a bit and then pick it up and shoot somemore. As you know in reality almost no one shoots continuous flash shots anyway so ths is probably a severe test.
I went from 489 to 616 flash shots (same batt's) before the low-batt indicator came on the second time. I measured the Eneloop voltage and now it is 1.20v. Down from 1.21v previously. After letting it sit for about six minutes the Low Batt indicator is off again and I am shooting flash again in 10-15 shot bunches and then letting it rest for 5 minutes or so. I will keep doing this until the Low-Batt indicator comes on and stays on and report back with the numbers.
781 shots before low-batt indicator came on for 3rd time.: using flash taking 10-15 shots in a row and then letting it rest for 5 min-6min... I may be hitting it too many times in a row for the batteries to recover.
816 flash shots and low-batt indicator is flashing for 4th time. Measured the voltage about 1.15-1.17v.
What is interesting here is that the batteries recover very quickly and in normal use I think they would actually go much further without the low-batt indicator flashing.
I let it sit for another 3 minutes and now I'm up to 850 flash shots and still going - no low-batt right now, though it's got to be getting low on gas...
866 shots: Low-batt ind came on and is now staying on (was getting worried low-batt ind was broken, LOL)
Continued shooting until 970 shots when camera shut down and change battery indicator came on. Voltage 1.125ish.
I hope this shows at least what I got, previously with other high NIMH batteries and NO toothpick I was getting 25 shots or so.
Tom B
with the information that they use Elite 1700 mah cells in an A710.
The cells drop the flash recycle time by 1-2 seconds over other cells. Elite cells are designed for very high discharge rates (20+ amps) and so have very low internal resistance.
The poster stated he can take over 400 medium powered flash images and the cells will still be reading about 1.3v each and the recycle time is less than 3 seconds. Full-power flash recycle time is 9 seconds. Low powered flash recycle time is less than one second.
Elite 1700 cells are designed for paintball guns and supposedly the lower internal resistance allows faster shooting.
I wonder if anyone notices any difference in flash RECYCLE times with their chosen batteries or just battery life.
Just wonder if these higher amperage batteries pose a problem in with any damage to the ciruit. But I am being overcautious here. If someone is using them then I suppose there isn't that problem I am not really knowledgable of electronics.
Except for one thing. I remember that battery voltage should be tested only UNDER A LOAD. not just sitting there and read with a voltmeter. Thats how they test your battery in your car. Those battery testers that you can buy in Radio Shack etc. for your home battery work that way I am told.
I remember that the way to test a battery is with a resistor of a certain value in series when using the voltmeter. Batteries actual reading will differ under a load which is how the battery is used. Perhaps the poster's information of the Elites having 'less internal resistance' is part of this.
I wonder if those who did some voltage tests could go back and retest under a load. I suppose this might be why different brands of batteries are more succesful than others in these tests. Testing this way could shed better light on different battery's performance here.
'Continued shooting until 970 shots when camera shut down and change battery indicator came on. Voltage 1.125ish.'
That is an incredible number of shots!
Camera settings (no. pixels, jpeg compression, and other features) would seem to have an effect on the number of shots. On my camera, high quality settings make for longer time delay between pictures, most likely additional time for processing and writing to the media. Seems the more work a camera does, the more energy needed.
I am curious to know the settings for your test?
Thanks ..... John L.
tb
'... shooting the next step up from the 640X...'
The next higher resolution would be 1600x1200, or 1.92 megapixels. The camera is capable of 7.1 megapixels. I don't know total effect for sure, but most likely a higher resolution and a low compression ratio would probably reduce the number of shots significantly, but the number still would be impressive.
It would be intereting to know how many shots in a high resolution, low compression test.
John L.
By the way, did u people notice one thing ? If u select the postcard sized mode (1600 x 1200 and fine compression), u cannot select digital zooming in the options menu ? Only when u select something other than postcard mode will the digital zoom option be selectable. The manual should have stated that clearly. I thought the camera was having some more problems other than battery life!
I am not sure how the new SD series is but take a look they are nice cameras. I just placed my order for the A720 as it just went on sale on amazon for $170 US dollars it has some manual bells and whistles I wanted to get out of my system for my first digital camera (have had film slrs in early days)
It was features and price.
It seems that the battery problem isnt such a problem when you use premium rechargables particularly the Sanyo enveloops I did go into Ritz camera here to see one of the A models and the salesperson said to use Enveloops that gets them off the hook if you look at a few of the a series on ritz website you see they are offering enveloops right on the same page to me that says thats safe way out of the "problem" for this camera
but if you like the newer canon sd series and other brands go for it seems that alll the a series after this year will be replaced anyway. I am taking a gamble with the battery thing and another problem or two but if you have the money go up in price range.
see if you can find a canon of the sd series in the camera shop and take a look at the battery comporatment you can tell if its the same design as the older a series.
I currently reside in Jordan - Middle East and here I could not find any decent rechargeable batteries except for the energizer 2000mAH which are also overpriced. There is no way that I could obtain the eneloops batteries even if i bought them from the net because most refuse to send such items to the middle east. So my question goes as follows: If I used the energizer batteries and applied the toothpick fix, will that solve the problem? (I consider the problem solved if i could get approx 150-200 pictures and few minutes video before recharging), moreover, is it true that it is better to use chargers that take hours to do the job rather than the 15-minute chargers?
thanks in advance :)
Hope others who have contributed here will answer your question.
If it were me I would choose a camera with a different battery type
The Alkaline battery’s that came in the box didn’t last long before the battery light came on.
I then bought Rayovac 2500 Nickel Metal Hydride batteries at Walmart. They latest longer but still the battery light came on too soon. By then, Best Buys’ 14 day, take back period was over and I was stuck with the camera.
After some researching on the internet I read people had done tests on the camera showing that the cameras low battery light comes on at 1.1 volt per battery, for a total of 2.2 volts for both batteries. The camera shuts off at 1.0 volt per battery or a total 2.0 volts for both batteries in the camera. This is a really bad shut off voltage for a digital camera because most AA batteries can’t hold that high a voltage for the length of their charge.
I then found someone had done voltage drop off tests and charts, which showed various batteries, and how their voltage drops off. Here is the link.
http://www.users.on.net/~mhains/Reviews.html
The enveloop 2000 seemed to have the highest voltage for the full length of their charge, which makes them perfect for this camera. They also have the new long life technology, which makes them hold 85% of their charge for a whole year. They come precharged. Regular NiMH batteries lose 30 % of their charge per month so they need to be charged every month.
The User Guide manual that came with the camera says to use AA- sized Alkaline batteries or Canon AA- Sized NiMH batteries. So this probably saves Canon from any lawsuits. I have yet to see someone on here use Canon batteries and have a problem. The Canon batteries must just start off with a higher voltage, which then stays high enough for the length of their charge. But they are expensive and I don’t think they have the long life technology, which means they will have to be charged every month or the camera will be dead.
I bought my eneloop batteries and charger at Amazon.com for about $15.00. This solved the problem for me. I also bought extra eneloop batteries at Circuit City.
Ben
It seems that this user indicates that the button battery for the time/date is not holding. He keeps having to replace it. These button batteries should last a long time.
Apparently the AAs are the only thing running the time/date in this user's camera and it has to be reset each time the AAs are removed, recharged and put back in.
Has anyone here had that problem?
Don't worry about capacity when buying NIMH cells for use in cameras, worry about internal resistance and voltage maintenance. You'll get more shots without a low battery indicator from low resistance cells than you will from high capacity cells. Unfortunately manufactures don't list internal resistance on the package. Eneloop 2000mAH cells are some of the lowest internal resistance cells on the consumer market. Sure they have a lower number on the package, and will probably deliver less pictures than a 2700mAH cell when compared *straight* off the charger in some cameras, but what about the next day? 2500mAH and higher capacity cells are prone to develop rapid self discharge. They can sit in a device (or on the shelf for that matter) and be completely dead in a few days. This is because the platelets and insulators within the cells are packed in so tight that they start to "leak" stored energy between the layers. The result is a cell that discharges rapidly without any current drawn from it. Those thin, tightly packed internals are the reason the high capacity cells have more internal resistance and poor voltage-under-load characteristics as well. The eneloops, also sold re-badged under different brands (white top duracell 2000mAH LSD cells, for example), have thicker insulating barriers within the cell, and thicker plates, they can pass current more freely, and as a result, often deliver more useful watt-hours than a cell that is rated high mAH. Remember, a camera is a "regulated" device that will pull more current from a set of cells to off-set low input voltage to run a component within the camera, so a cell that suffers from high internal resistance will have the camera try to pull more current from it to offset that low voltage, in doing so, more power will be wasted as heat within the cell (because of resistance).
It's important to note that not ALL high capacity cells develop extremely rapid self discharge, but MANY of them do. They will perform and work as expected usually within the first few dozen charge/discharge cycles, but then they will start to rapidly degrade, their internal resistance will increase, their voltage maintenance will go down the tubes, and their self discharge will become unmanageable. In my experience, most consumer cells will not deliver a useful performance past 100 cycles. Eneloops handle the rigors in the long run much better, even if you don't get as many shots straight off the charger as another cell, the eneloops will pay for themselves in the long run by not needing to be replaced as soon.
Another option would be to look into some hobby grade (super low resistance) cells. Usually found where RC guys can be found. They are usually about 5 mOhm give or take and hold voltages up around 1.35V into most light loads without any problems. They are usually rated around 1500-1700mAH capacity, but remember, capacity ratings aren't everything!
Even with the low battery indicator on, it will randomnly turn on and off at will whenever the camera is used and I can still take several pictures, up in the hundreds before the batteries are actually discharged. I suspect that it's an issue with the firmware on the camera itself, especially after talking with a few Canon approved repair facilities who've said that they've had quite a few cameras come in with the same issue.
tb
It was a reasonble choice, with the first charge, I was able to take 210 shots and about 20 minutes of video over a period of one month (so there was no internal discharge). I think it is OK now but I have to say the quality is still not what I would compare to my analog Pentax and Ricoh SLR's. Maybe I still have to get used to the adjustments. I found that the Prorgram mode with exposure compensation provides much better results than the fully automatic mode. Also, recently the white balance functions seems to work wonders sometimes.
Canon better come up with a solution or this will be the last Canon product I will buy.
Look at the post by Amourek at 18.52 on 8/12/2007 and the attached picture. Use a thin piece of flat wood & slide it under the +ve terminal in the battery cover where shown to raise the contact up slightly (Don't bother with the -ve terminal). Then replace your batteries with Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables and I believe your problem will be solved. A bit of a bodge but at the end of the day it looks like Canon are unlikely to accept there's a problem.
Not having toothpicks, I solved it by using a small screwdriver to gently bend out the contacts in the lid. Perfect, and a very good battery life, even using the screen and the flash.
This is a brilliant camera, but Canon should have sorted this problem.
Jim (J.Baker @ ex.ac.uk)
Thanks to Tasha for extra information on this. My bending the contacts probably did the same as having slightly longer batteries, it did improve things a lot, but I have since discovered that this is not the entire solution. After a while the low battery icon appeared again, but I ignored it and was able to take many photos with the thing flashing.
I think one day's shooting on one set of alkaline is OK, although other cameras do much better. My theory is that the firmware needs modifying, so that it does not give the warning so early, ie, before it is necessary. The flashing warning is very distracting and is NOT telling us the truth. Don't let it shut down the camera; you can turn this off in the options.
Jim
----------------
Thanks,
Tom B.
MENU
Right for settings
Select Power saving
Change Auto Power Down to OFF
This only stops the auto power down. Nothing else is affected.
If this is disabled does this mean there will be no power down, no alert and no change battery alerts. The camera will just go dead when it is time to change batteries??
Thanks for clarifing,
Tom
As far as I can tell, this ONLY prevents the camera shutting down when it thinks the power is low.
You will still get the battery low icon and eventually, it will just stop working and say "Change batteries".
This may not be of any great help, as I think the auto-power down is usually just if the camera has not been used for a while, but I suspect that it might also do the shut down when it thinks the power is low.
In any case, nothing else seems to be affected, so why not try it? I would rather decide when to turn off my camera than let it decide!
There remain two questions.
(1) Why do you get the low battery icon after taking only a small number of photos with a new set of batteries?
(2) Why can you then go on to take a lot more photos with the icon flashing all the time?
It does seem like a bug in the firmware to me.
Jim
-----------------
http://kenrockwell.com/canon/compacts/a570.htm
The review has this to say about the battery problem:
-----------------------------------------------------
POWER
Battery Life and Meter
The A570 has the same overly sensitive low battery warning as the other A-series Canons I've used. It often will flash the red battery symbol or shut down, even if the batteries are fine or new. Don't believe it; keep trying and keep shooting. My 4-year-old Canon A70 has always done the same thing.
I made 300 shots on the A570 on a set of 2,100 mAh Ni-MH and they were still going when I returned the camera to my friend from my photo club.
Since I couldn't kill the battery in the short time I had it, I don't know if I'd get more than 300 shots. The battery meter was telling me I was out of juice, but the open circuit voltage of the cells was each 1.29V, which is fine for Ni-MH. It is probably happier with throw-away lithium.
Here is another suggestion from elsewhere. I have just tried it, inserted new batteries, and will report if it helps...
----------------
mikedodd's Full Review: Canon PowerShot A570 IS Digital Camera
I really like the PowerShot A570IS. It's a big step up from the A80 I had before it. However, I've experienced the low-battery warning problem that has been mentioned multiple times on the 'Net.
The problem manifests itself when the camera turns on the low-battery warning indicator even with a fresh set of batteries installed. It happened to me repeatedly after turning on the power only for five times with a fresh set of batteries.
I discovered I could make the warning indicator go away by simply opening and closing the battery compartment cover. After I did this, the camera would operate normally with the same set of batteries. But after 4 or 5 power-cycles, the low-battery indicator would again come on.
I expected the battery compartment cover and I believe the design of the metal electrical contacts is flawed. These contacts are made of springy metal, but there isn't enough force to press the metal securely against the battery. Even worse, the end of each contact has a metal tab that prevents it from being bent further out to increase the tension. I believe these contacts are the cause of the low-battery warning.
I fixed my camera by inserting tiny pieces of plastic foam (i.e., spongy, like from "foam rubber" pillows) under the metal contacts. I used a small screwdriver to gently bend up each metal strip, and stuffed a small piece of foam under it. This provides enough force to keep the contact securely touching the battery. Since I made this fix, I have power-cycled the camera at least two dozen times, and never once did the low-battery warning come on. In other words, I believe the problem is fixed.
I applied a bit of DeOxit on the terminals of a couple of batteries, inserted them, and opened and closed the battery door a couple of times. Afterwards, I shot 250+ flash photos with no low battery warning. Try it out if you get a chance, it might be a little simpler than wedging something under the contacts. You can find DeOxit at Radio Shack, Fry's, MCM Electronics, etc. Or at www.caig.com
It's fairly expensive, but it's the best contact cleaner I've ever used.
tnx
Update: Up to over 400 shots on this charge now.
I still get the warning, but was able to take dozens of photos with the warning flashing.
I write software for embedded systems like this (not cameras), so I am a bit of an expert. This is my theory:
The software is too sensitive to the battery voltage. It does drop dramatically as a photo is taken, and maybe the software picks up on this and reports "low battery". Instead of realising the the voltage is soon OK, it continues to report the warning. You can confirm this by opening the battery compartment and closing it again. The warning will often go away, but come back again when you take another photo.
Maybe it's just an annoyance, but I do feel that Canon should address this. It does spoil a wonderful little camera.
Has anybody tried CHDK software and decreasing the battery warning? Perhaps that will help.
I finally decided to recharge my first set of batteries.
My question is: can I charge two batteries in a four-battery charger?
Thanks!
RS
I'd strongly recommend picking up a good charger that can recondition/test/restore batteries as well as charge any number at once. The Maha Powerex MH-C9000 is the one I use, and it works great.
'Do I have to charge 4 batteries at a time in the 4-position charger, or may I charge only one?
The eneloop 4-position charger battery slots are designed in pairs. It is designed so that it may accommodate charging 2 batteries at a time - 2 in the inside positions or 2 outside positions - or 4 batteries at a time. The charger charges AA or AAA only.'
This charger has worked frequently and perfectly for 9 months. I charge 2 cells often in either the inside or outside positions, and also 4 at a time - no problems.
No doubt the Maha Powerex MH-C9000 has more features and may be better in the long run. It costs $57.95 plus shipping from Amazon.
Link to the FAQ section of the U.S. site:
http://www.eneloopusa.com/eneloop.html
Hope this is helpful. ..... John L.
My problem: Energizer 1850 mAH NiMH's get rejected when they are still well charged. They will then go on until they are flat in GPS, torch, etc.
I tried 'toothpick' and DeOxit and they did not help in my case.
I borrowed some Uniross 800 mAH NiCad's and without using DeOxit or toothpick managed to use them until they were genuinely fairly well discharged. Occasionally I had to wipe them and reload them. Incidently these have small positive terminals.
I came to believe that my camera does not suffer from bad contacts, but that the Energizer batteries have too much internal resistance. See "mdocod" on 22 April 2008. Eneloops have low internal resistance so I got some.
These batteries went on and on until even the GPS agreed they well well run down, and without using DeOxit or toothpick and without having to reload them at all. I used the method in the manual page 116 (monitor on, alternate flash and zoom, etc.) and "Change the batteries" came up after 397 shots. The low battery warning first came up after 368 shots. This trial was over a period of 8 days.
Thankyou everyone. It seems the solution is not the same in every case.
I mean the "low battery warning sign" because it will become useless if so.
CANON! Make firmware to fix this issue!
When a company too giant, they start forget they valuable customer, what a shame.
Tom
I called Canon and they told me there are no reports of such an issue and as it is out of warranty, I could mail it back. Average cost to fix is $129.
Have these folks heard of the internet? Are they aware that people can now share their experience? Is anybody from Canon reading this? I told them this was my first, and likely last Canon purchase. Why should anybody have to fiddle with toothpicks when there is a design flaw. Outrageous in my opinion. Love the camera otherwise, but Canon is not doing the right thing here.
You are right about Canon, but ...
Since you have had it a year and like it, you might try the toothpick trick - very cheap and simple. Metal contacts should not become too compressed to make good contact, but this is a common problem, not only this model and Canon - even in the film point and shoots.
After trying the toothpick trick, check if you are using the newer NiMH technology rechargables as discussed several times in this thread. They make a world of difference over the older ones.
Happy shooting ..... Johnny.
I have the greatest sympathy with Michael and what he has written. Canon could sort this out and they ought to.
Perhaps all who read this forum should email them?
This is a design fault, despite my expertise in electronics and software, I am not sure I understand quite what is wrong.
BUT, don't give up on Canon. Absolutely fantastic cameras. My digital Canon SLR is a miracle of technology, quite amazing. This little one performs incredibly, despite the problem.
I am sure someone from Canon must be reading this. Please sort it out. You have some of the best technologists on the planet, so just solve this small problem, please.
Thanks for the replies. I have tried cleaning my contacts with a clean eraser, but that has not helped at all. I'm going to try the toothpick trick and see if that helps.
So, is there an email address for Canon, it would be great if folks could email them to be sure they are aware of the scope of the problem?
-michael
By now, anyone writing to Canon to fix this problem is whistling in the wind. They will do nothing, as amply stated several times above.
Just get the contacts working, with a toothpick or whatever, and get some of the new type of Nickel Metal Hydride batteries and charger - Eneloops or whatever other bands have the new technology. These are rechargeable, almost nothing to recharge, with hardly any self-discharging, and are much, much cheaper than the polluting throw-away ones. You, your camera, and the environment will be happier.
Maybe someone can write a summery of these fixes, and let this issue be put to bed, and everyone just enjoy the great pictures possible.
Johnny.
Buy Sanyo Eneloop batteries. It is possible to take about 700 photos continuously with the LCD on with them or even more.
cutoff.ie: it will cut off after a slight change in voltage drop of battery assuming battery is low.It is designed for
battery protection to get maximum life unfortunately indication level for canon was too early.So it needs either
a firmware update or change in its circuit to overcome this.I am waiting for reply from canon for the same
problem.So everybody give a complaint at canon site.link is- http://www.canon.co.in/ComplainForm.asp
thanks
It is doubtful you will get any response from Canon, and if you do get one, they will do nothing. This problem and solutions have been discussed many times in this forum, including the 2 comments above yours.
Good luck ..... Johnny.
I would encourage others to hassle them for a fix.
A wonderful little camera, spoilt by a minor bug.
I must say that my Canon digital SLR is quite remarkable, fantastic technology, good user interface, brilliant results. Canon are good, bu they are letting customers down with this problem.
Jim
-------------------------
I responded in another thread. I've tried the toothpick problem and the camera now works as it did when new. No low battery indicator, and no problems with any type of battery.
As said in previous notes, it's a nice camera but Canon has dropped the ball. My first and last Canon as they know full well about the problem, but choose to ignore when you call them and reference this and all the other threads on various forums of users complaining about this identical issue.
Thanks to the prior users who solved the problem on Canon's behalf,
michael
Jason C
i am sure someone there at Canon is reading this, if so, please pass it on to senior management.
Look how many messages on here, and this is just one forum. This is a genuine problem.
Time to own up and correct this fault. OK, it will cost you a bit, but how much will it cost you to lose so many customers that love your cameras? And yes, you will lose us, for life; there are plenty of good alternatives. You have to give good service if you want to compete. You are not doing so.
Please do the right thing on this one.
And the advantage to having a camera that uses AA batteries is that you shouldn't have to purchase special brands or types of battiers. Just normal duracell AAs should be fine.
I was pretty nervous about the battery cover anyway, you really have to push on it to open and close it. Probably best I take it back anyway, before that breaks.
Thank everyone for their contributions.
My conclusion; The batteries are the problem.
The cause is the high internal resistance of the batteries!
Many NiMh batteries have a high internal resistance for use in the A720.
The same applies to the alkaline battery, including those of Duracell.
The Electo 2300 mAh NiMh batteries that I had used, have an internal resistance of 500 mOhm!
The NiCad's Sanyo 700 mAh give no problems.
NiCad's have a much lower internal resistance than NiMh batteries.
The internal resistance can be determined by measuring the battery voltage with load and without load.
For the load I used a resistance of 1 ohm.
Discharge current is then about 1 A.
Example.
Without load 1.3 V voltage measured.
With load of 1 Ohm a voltage of 1.2 V measured.
The internal resistance is approximately the voltage difference measured in ohms.
The internal resistance = 1.3 - 1.2 = 0.1 ohms.
As far as I can see Sanyo NiMh batteries and in particular the Eneloop AA 2000 mAh, which were listed here, are a good choice.
Did you read the manual? Did you go back to where you bought the camera and ask for help? did you call Canon?
Johnny.
Perhaps I can save you some time. I bought the A720 which is essentially the same design camera. I had read through the suggestions here to get an idea of what was happening even before I took delivery in the camera.
I checked with a camera salesperson and mentioned the battery problem. The salesperson stated that there is no problem with batteries but covered that by stating that Sanyo Enveloops are the battery to buy for any device of this type taking AA batteries.
You should invest in Sanyo Enveloops as I did. Regardless of the cost of the camera, cost as a factor in that decision you are dealing with irreplaceable moments so why skimp on battery and charger? WE dont have to figure the cost of film and D&P anymore so skimping on batteries and charger is senseless.
Enveloops aren't expensive. I think somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 for $13 and the package doubles as a carrying case for spares.
I read through the decisions and ordered a LaCrosse charger which was the bigger cost here. I have NOT regretted it.
Enveloops are designed to have long lasting battery shelf life in between charges. With the excellent LaCrosse charger topping off the batteries from the camera just before an outing with the camera, since the batteries retain a lot of charge, is rather quick. I always have a pack of spare batteries topped off (4 in the case that Sanyo supplies in my pocket. That gives me a MINIMUM of 500 full cycle flashes.
I ordered my batteries and LaCrosse charger from www.thomas-distributing.com Its a good investment! Mine selects the charging rate and also will recondition a battery with discharge/charge cycles. The instructions are comprehensive.
The toothpick trick referred to just uses a flat toothpick to shim up the contacts a bit as the batteries tend to fit loose which may contribute to the problem. An observant poster here noticed that the contacts on the ends of the Enveloop batteries are just a bit longer than some batteries and I have found that the toothpick trick was not necessary. I don't quite get the number of full flashes that some report here but with 2 sets of spares in my pocket it has NEVER been a a problem.
My next camera probably won't be a Canon but not just the battery problem. One of the problems is that they have opted a) to utilize AAs instead of a proprietary battery and b) some of these A series cameras only use two AAs instead of four.
Aside from the battery thing, you have to admit that Canon's A series cameras have pretty good picture quality. My A720 has been said to rival or even surpass entry level SLRs. It's the camera itself that gets a bit clumsy, way too slow for me for quick deciding camera shots. The LCD is terrible out in the sun, but the optical finder saves the bacon.
Good enough for me. Good luck!
We have a Canon A710 IS. What a great camera. We've had it for a year or so and it's ability to use power from a fresh set of batteries has gradually weakened over time. VERY FRUSTRATING!
Recently it has gotten so bad that we are unable to put brand new recharged batteries in without it shutting down instantly. The only thing that would work are fresh regular alkaline 1.5V batteries. And then this workaround just failed to work. Reading through all these great posts I tried a few things without success:
1.0 Clean all 4 camera contacts (tried q-tip w QD electronic cleaner, then tried pencil erasure)
2.0 Clean all 4 battery ends
3.0 Remove the door, bend the positive and negative metal leads so they have more spring force, re-install.
I finally tried the "toothpick" solution. Although instead, I cut a 1/8 inch strip along side of the short side of a business card, folded it a few times, ripped off excess and inserted under the positive metal contactor.
VOILA! Worked like a charm
CONCLUSION: Since I had just bent the top contactor so it had at least it's original position (if not more) I think that the bottom metal contactor must gradually lose it's spring and the overall distance between top and bottom contactor gets so long that proper contact is not made.
This last suggestion sounds good. Lots of other suggestions here, so best to try them and see if anything works for you. There may be more than one problem involved.
But it is a design fault, isn't it? I have never had this kind of problem with any other battery powered equipment. Canon should fix it.
It is strange that such a brilliant high-tech camera should fail because of a badly designed battery compartment. The processor is rather more complex, and they got that right.
:-)
There are other forums and internet questions where the problem of batteries in various models of digital cameras comes up. They take only a few pictures and poop out. And as far as I know, the camera instruction manuals don't cover the performance problems with various batteries, and don't promote the types compatible with digital's characteristics. Even another model of Canon point and shoot I recently bought as a gift didn't cover this battery situation.
Otherwise as previously noted here, a great little camera...
Still, it is a shame Canon doesn't address this with a firmware upgrade to address the battery sensor issue. - BUMS... :)
Tom B.
I agree with Tom B of course, about Canon.
I might give in and get some Eneloops. They are good, if expensive. But they seem to work for many.
But I might try another solution first. It seems possible that Eneloops might work because they are a tiny bit longer than other batteries. If this is the case, there are other ways to effectively make the battery longer. This is what is behind the toothpick solution. I think I will put some solder on the positive terminal of some alkaline batteries, filed down to be just a few mm thick.
It might work?
They are surprisingly inexpensive at Costco here, charger and some AA's plus in one package. Another package is only batteries. My kids bought some there and both are really happy with them. You don't get the full selection, however - typical Costco marketing. Wal Mart also carries Eneloop at a excellent price.
I also suggest you top off your Eneloops if they have been sitting for a while... especially if you are going on a trip. Never hurts though they do hold a charge in storage better than any other battery..
After spending a few dollars for this camera, don't fall over pennies to reduce the aggrevation, IMHO.
This camera takes awsome Pic's
Tom B.
Yes, maybe we should remember the good points about the camera.
I don't really understand how, but it often takes pics as good as my expensive SLR. Not so much control of course, or changing lenses, or big flash unit, and does not take a good pic of a black cat in a coal cellar by candlelight, (my SLR does), but it fits in my pocket!
That's why I have given so much time to trying to solve the battery problem.
I think the Eneloops are more expensive here in the UK, but I will look into it.
Thanks to Tom and others for advice on this. Much appreciated.
I got some Eneloop batteries. Quite expensive. They seem to work. Maybe problem solved?
I have the A20 which essentially I think is the same design, the same 2 AA cell battery scheme.
The way I see and understand it, if I remove my batteries the circuit is broken. If I hold down the on button for thirty seconds one would think that would not have an influence on the circuit in the camera.
Or is holding down the battery bleeding some held charge in the ciruit and logic somewhere?
not questioning this just trying to understand it. For future reference.
Enveloops seem to work for me well enough perhaps I dont get as may shots as otherss but I tested to about 200 flashes at full discharge so I think thats adequate for a camera of this type.
I am greatful that I have an inexpensive camera with good optics that can rival what entry level SLRS produce! the fact that the camera is slow in operation comes with the territory.
Good point.
The camera does also have a small battery cell, so not completely dead when main batteries are removed.
But I would guess that a proper reset needs to be done by holding the button down, with the main batteries inserted.
No one should complain if they get 200 shots.
The problem that this big thread is all about is getting less than 20 shots before the low battery warning. For most, the camera contiues to work, but it is a bug, and Canon should fix it!
just saw that perhaps that point needed clarifying somehow.
Can't figure Canons concept on the battery design thing. that camera that I have the A720 isnt compact anyway it will fit a coat pocket but not something else so I cant figure why they would go to some proprietary flat battery and be done with it. The camera is great basically and perhaps they dont want this price range camera to be TOO good as to cut into SLR sales Always leave em wanting more!!
Anyway enveloops do it for me!
I did not try the "toothpick" solution or clean the contacts. But after I did this, a new set of duracell alkaline batteries, which repeatedly before had given the low-battery indication began to work just fine.
This problem appears to be multi-pronged, but the "firmware" problem, as someone called it above, may be addressed by this fix, which the CNET commenter claimed came from CANON.
http://reviews.cnet.com/digital-cameras/canon-powershot-a570-is/4864-6501_7-32314644.html?ctype=msgid&messageSiteID=7&messageID=2527073&cval=2527073
Haven't seen if this works in the long term yet, but something definitely happened immediately. My batteries that refused to work a few moments ago (repeatedly) now work.
Thanks LP. That sounds like good evidence that the "reset" thing might help for some people. Worth a try - it's free! It does sound as if there may be more than one cause of this problem.
I got some of the eneloop batteries and so far, they seem to be working OK.
BUT, just to repeat my moan, Canon should sort this out!
If I knew how (and I don't) I'd add a photo to show the difference in height.
It is just the size of the battery, just that. Eneloops and Duracell are just that tiny bit bigger, a few mm. This is BAD battery compartment design by Canon. They get all the difficult hi-tech stuff right and the battery compartment wrong! I think there is a firmware problem too, as the camera should not be so sensitive to a temporary drop in battery voltage due to a bad connection. They could be forgiven if they did something about it, but they have not. I am afraid that my next camera will not be a Canon.
Jim
--------------
On all the flashes I have had over many years, rechargeable batteries perform significantly better than alkaline. This is in spite of their lower voltage, and they are quite inexpensive now, at least in the U.S. and Canada. The new technology NiMH batteries have overcome the problem of self-discharge. The electrical cost of recharging is insignificant.
There are economic, environmental and performance advantages of rechargeable batteries. Alkaline batteries are used once and dumped into the garbage.