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what about kodak DX6490 Error #E45?
i have kodak DX6490 i open it once i found Error #E45 help me plz i love it and i get it so expensive how i can repair it? expinsive?
I noticed you haven't marked a Best Answer... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at http://www.digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
If your not too worried about the camera give it a good hard slap, the dx range was notorious for jammed lenses and shutter, being just a thin sliver of plastic any damp tends to make them stick together, so far Ive "fixed" 5 dx3900's by giving it a good hard slap, hold the camera and bash the edge next to the lens against the palm of you hand as hard as you can, one I did have to get a little more medieval on and bashed aginst a bit of carpet on the bench.. but it worked... might be worth a go if the next step is the bin...
Since posting this message I decided to have a bit more of a play with the Kodak compacts and have bought various dead units off eBay to have a play with.
DC215, DX3900, CX4230, C340, DX7630, still to come v603
They all use a gearbox to slow down and power up the drive to extend the zoom.
The DC215 uses a very nice metal gearbox, which seems nigh on bomb proof, if you jam the lens it just stops, the camera detects it and it shuts down, but seeing as its a single stage lens it needs little power so the over rated gerbox isnt realy needed.
The DX3900, DX4900 (and clones) has a plastic gearbox but again being a single stage lens the power requirements are small and so far I haven't heard of gear breakage in these, there more prone to the lens getting contaminated (muck in the gears and on the contact strip) although a full strip down is needed to get to the contact strip.
For the CX4230 see dx3900 except its a more open chassis allowing you to get to the contact strip a lot easier.
Now heres where things get crappy DX7630 this has an almost identical gearbox to the DX3900, but its back to front so it wont fit. This one has a 2 stage lens which needs far more power to get it moving, and bizarrely it needs more power from the parked position than anywhere else in the lens movement range. It also has a clip on lens cover so leaving the lens cover on while powering up can be fatal.
It also uses a variable resistor for lens position detection rather than the contact strip found in earlier cameras, this over time will be prone to becoming electrically noisy and wear so confusing the electronics, this could cause the lens to over run (not stop when it should) and break a tooth off the gearbox output gear, Broken output gears seem to be common on this range (using the Variogon lens) weather due to the lens becoming fouled or dirt in the mechanism. Basically if the lens only comes out part way and makes a clicking noise the gear is broken and Kodak wont supply parts so your camera is scrap for the sake of a 20p plastic gear, I'm not sure why Kodak are scraping these units (well I do they want to sell you a new one) the "not economical to repair" is a down and outright lie, the gear could be changed in 30mins buy someone who knows what there doing, less if they were to just swap out the gearbox.
The C340 sees a re-design of the gearbox, this uses a worm gear arrangement turning the drive through 90 degrees. Kodak seem to have wanted to speed up the lens extension to reduce startup time, BIG mistake, a worm gear will deliver allot more power so your far more likely to break the output gear even though its only a single stage lens, Having said that, of the 4 C430's I bought only one had lens problems, the rest had brain problems, but the gearbox had almost exploded, the output gear had broken, and would only turn one turn each way before jamming (so the lens did move a little) but the amount of power within the gearbox was enough to separate the casing...
The other change in this model is a return to the contacts rather than the variable resistor for lens position detection.
So here's the tips on how to get a long life out of your Kodak. I have a DX3900 that's still running fine (although sounds like a tractor) after 10,000+ shots and 5 years so they can last.
TAKE THE LENS CAP OFF
Keep it in a case,
Keep it dry,
keep it clean, Sand could be particularly fatal
Maybe a plastic bag in your camera case would be a good idea.
NEVER force the lens if it gets stuck, It will NOT help. except with the Variogon which a GENTLE turn of the 1st stage (the fatter part - as you look at the front of the camera, counter clockwise to retract - clockwise to extend) but ONLY do this while the motor is trying to move it, but really don't, put a small piece of cardboard tube over it (will protect the lens while its in your bag) until you can look at it properly
Happy Snapping
I hope this works for someone else
An update for the dx7630 Ive had several in now, and so far ALL have suffered from poor focus in landscape telephoto mode this is due to lens ware, and cannot be repaired, but it can be bodged.
You can tell easily if you have a problem without another camera for comparison, put the lens in wide and see if there is any vertical play in the last lens stage (should be none) then put in telephoto and if there is a problem there will be more, sometimes focus will be soft other times it wont it depends how the lens falls.
A bodge to fix is to put the lens in wide, take some sellotape and stack several layers (one of my cameras needed 3 layers the other 5) so that the stack of tape its snugly in the gap between the first and second stages, cut the tape into a triangle about 1cm along each side. Insert the point between the two lens stages in wide mode.
Now hopefully because the play gets worse as you go telephoto the tapering section of tape will provide more padding due to the extra width. Both my cameras are under 5000 actions so watch this model if you plan on buying second hand.
Another bit of useful info. It turns out the gearbox output gear from the cx4230 is a good fit for the dx7630 its slightly wider so an upgrade but you will need a scalpel to remove the plastic tube (you will see what I mean if you do it)
Thanks, Jay!
is the lens sticking half way and being silent, making clicking noises, pictures taken are blank or wobley lens?
you cant take the front off, you have to take off the back, carefully disconnect the screen and control pannel.
dissconnect the ccd and motor ribon, remove the main pcb, then you can get the chassis out and remove the lens assembly,
I had a problem, don't use sellotape, if it gets wet it comes off and can end up rolled up in the lens, use electrical tape, its less prone to moisture
it worked! tokk earlier advise and smacked it on carpeted floor . threw it down from about 8 inches above the carpet.. took about 5 times
and thn the error stopped showing up
and the camera started working .throw lightly
at first to figure out what the camera can take.
through "screen down"towards the carpet.
i did it as a last resort w my ls443 cuz i wasnt paying going to pay to fix it.just to old.
I'm not exactly sure where your at....
contact me directly, do a search for - planetzed stuff - on google n you will find me
cheers
jay
I still have a problem though. It doesn't seem to focus.
I don't think I'll ever buy another Kodak.
Which camera? DX6490 or DX7630 have most common focus problems, if 6490 shake it .. anything rattling about inside? if so unfortunately its most likely the pin which pulls the final lens from its park position may have broken/ come out of its hole, its fixable with epoxy resin but means stripping the lens down and that's no mean feat....
if ls433 is it trying to focus? if not there are sometimes poor connections where two ribbons meet, get in touch below if you want more help..
All compacts have lens problems, most of them due to muck getting in the works, the lens getting bashed or the camera getting switched on in its camera case together with everything being made of plastic.
If anyone wants direct help you can get my email from my web page at planetzed dot org
also when posting here please mention which camera your talking about.....
Thanks for all the information!
interesting, haven't come across a early retinar lens with that problem, it uses a worm gear assembly to focus.
The closet I have to your camera is a cx7330...
so if you put your ear to the camera and half depress the shutter button there is no noise at all?
If your confident with a screw driver, my first check would be..
BUT BE CAREFULL THESE THINGS HAVE A 300Volt BITE from the flash
take all the screws out around the case and remove the back
if its anything like the 7330 the lens mechanics ribbon will connect to the top board (one the on/of/auto/movie switch on) release the ribon by pulling the black retaining slider out by about 2mm, the ribbon will now be free. check for corrosion using a rubber (pencil eraser) to clean it.
if the ribbon is clean the next check would be for a problem with the mechanics of the focus. for this you need to get to the back of the lens, its not that hard, contact me via planetzed dot org. preferably after installing skype or msn with a webcam
In case it helps....
I've had my Kodak easy share LS753 for around 2 years - it cost $500AU. A week ago when I turned it on it came back with Error #E45. After no help with customer service I took it to a camera repair shop. Apparently the error is common if it's been wet or dropped - neither of these had happened to my camera. It was going to cost $70AU to 'look at' and approx $200-$300 to fix - which is way more than the camera would be worth now! I decided to give it a crack myself - I took it to pieces and cleared out all the dust (much more intricate than I'd anticipated - I nearly sent it flying across the room at this point!)... to no avail. As a last resort I gave it a good firm smack on the back/LCD side as you guys suggested - it took 2 hits & it's working again! Thanks Jay & co. for your advice!!!!
for some reason I'm not getting emails to replies to this topic any more,
anyway re your spring, sorry to say I don't have a cx7525 but i think that lens is fairly much an early version of the "C" series lenses.
now if its the spring I think it is, it looks a bit like the spring out of a retractable pen but thinner coils and shorter yes?
luckily its not from deep inside the lens..
remove the ccd and you will see above the place where the ccd lives a raised section with a hole in which the end of a shaft sits, to help with location, next to this raised section there is a hole with what looks a screw within the hole, this is where the spring lives. Remove the lens back plate and you will see that the screw is in fact the end of the auto-focus motor shaft.
Next to the screw is the shaft the final lens runs up (which is the shaft you can see in the raised section) and down to focus this has a raised plastic nipple on which the spring sits, the other end of the spring sits in the raised section of the back plate.
Before replacing the back plate make sure that the final lens is at the end of its travel (close to the ccd) with the lens in the park position.
After re-assembly if the lens is extending but erroring at focus time or in the final stages of extension check to see if you can see movement in the previously mentioned auto focus shaft end if your not it may be that the lens has jumped a thread or the nut has come off, a couple of careful turns to re seat the thread may help, take care not to cross thread it though.
If you are still getting an error check the fingers and foil of the lens positioning switch,
also it is possible to put these lenses together wrong so they appear to be correct but are in fact jammed. remove the motor and or gearbox and make sure the lens runs smoothly throughout the extension/retraction and zoom.
Best of luck
J
BTW PLEASE HAS ANYONE A LCD FOR A V1003 or V610?
or could someone in the US / Canada help me out by ordering and forwarding the parts from Kodak...
For some strange reason if I lived in the USA I can buy a new LCD for about $35 but here in the UK they want $180 to fit one (and wont sell the parts)
thanks
There's a train coming your way very soon. I set a pot of stew in a vacant car for you.
Good Luck
Hi jay I have tried to get in touch with you in july but can't seem to locate you now planetzed seems to be down :( any other way I have skype and msn and camera. thanks so much for your help!!!!
Gotta love repairs for high tech electronics!
I am in awe.
I just smacked the bottom of it with the palm of my hand... turned it on/off and the lens went back inside.
I tried the smacking technique and it worked =o I slapped the screen side against my palm as I turned it on and I heard the whirring and the error stopped coming up :D
But it doesn't focus---- any sugestions??
I tried all the remedies suggested here- including light taps, rough taps, and taking the camera apart. By the way, to take the camera apart take all 8 screws off; the back will come off, but only with force to disengage two hidden snaps, left and right on the top; the tabs are on the extractable back and the receptors are on the stationary front; so push down a little on the top, back, and take the back off by lifting it up, disengaging the snap-on tabs. Satisfying, but useless for me because the motor for the lens is three layers deeper into the guts of the camera.
I abandoned those remedies and reexamined the stuck lens. With nothing to lose I twisted the lens and sleeve (turning it is useless) with considerable force and, to my surprise, the lens and exterior assembly popped off. It is held in place by three tabs fitting into three slots which travel up and down as the motor turns.
The camera still would not work but I could see that the inner lens with its delicate shutter assembly was slightly tilted. I suspect that this inner tilt stopped the up-down movement of the inside lens and was the actual cause for the camera failure; and that it can usually be righted by tapping the camera. No such luck with mine. It was stuck, solidly, caused, I think, because my granddaughter whacked the outer lens to straighten it out before I got it.
Again, with nothing to lose, I put a screwdriver into the side of the assembly and put considerable force on it to remove the tilt. It snapped into place! Moreover, the inner lens would now move in and out and the camera was fully functional, except that all images were out-of-focus because the outer lens was off.
So ... with the camera on I pushed one tab of the outer lens assembly into the one of the movable slots and twisted the assembly into place with a lot of force. Voila! The darn camera worked except for some dark spots on the corners of the digital images. Looking at the outer lens I saw that I had put the first tab into the wrong slot so that the rectangular lens guard was cocked by 120 degrees. I simply twisted the outer lens assembly off and put it back into the right slot, with the wording on the lens in a proper horizontal position.
The camera now works flawlessly. And I gave it to my mischievous granddaughter who, when the lens and back were off, asked “Papa, if you put it back together can I have it?"
BTW- if you're going to try this with your good camera use these tips.
#1 turn the camera on.
#2 start by pressing in around the outer edge of the lens with medium strong pressure.
NOTE: pressing or hitting the camera lens will not cause it to retract if the camera is on, even if it worked to dislodge the lens.
turning the camera off and on again will engage the gears and that is when you'll be able to tell if it worked.
#3 power the camera off and on again.
#4 if the pressure didn't work, try tapping the lens against the palm of your hand several times.
#5 power the camera off and on again.
#6 if all else fails try giving the camera a really good smack against your hand or a folded towel on a flat hard surface such
as a table or counter.
Good luck!
About 2 years ago I gave it to someone to take a picture and he dropped it. The lens are out and they won't go back in and the camera won't turn on. The circle with the different settings also gets stuck. The little knob in the middle of the settings doesn't work, but that stopped working right before the camera broke.
Should I just take it apart, is it a lost cause? I loved this camera, it was my first big purchase of my own and I would love for it to work again.
for some reason I stopped getting notifications of new messages??
if anyone still needs any help post here or go to the contacts page on my new web site www.blasterbates.info
The slapping it option is good for several problems, stuck shutter, slightly jammed lenses due to contamination or if the plastic track s the lens runs down is worn, burred or cracked. The slap will just jarr the lens enough to get past the problem or dislodge the dirt, turning the lens as mentioned by others can help but if you put too much force on it you may cause more dammage, if le lens turns easily, you have a broken gear within the lens, although if its only one tooth the camera may continue to function. the turning action most likely moved the broken piece of plastic from the gear which was jamming the lens
If the camera has been dropped particularly if the lens is out and especially if the lens is now looking in any way lob sided. Either one of the pins that the internal lenses or lens tubes are mounted on have broken, become jammed or dislodged from there tracks in this case the lens will at least need opening up and some reassembly performed
couple of quick answers to recent posts -
Nicole - is as above do you mean the glass withing the lens tube looks out of alignment, drop me an email via the above.
Vianna & KDJ - sounds like a stuck shutter, but obviously could be other things. one way to tell, if there is a shutter issue when you look down the lens you will see there is no "hole"(camera off) then when you turn the camera on and the lens stops moving a second or two later the shutter should open and you will be able to see the "hole" if the shutter is stuck you wont see it open. Unfortunately if slapping it hasn't worked it may be damaged (warping can occur if left in the sun for example) or a lot of condensation got on it effectively gluing the shutter closed, beyond a slap the lens needs opening. one thing though that series of lens has a vertical shutter so banging it on the bottom may be more helpfull than the side (with camera switched on)
Chris - if you still need help get in touch although if the lens tbe has come away from the front something is almost certainly broken as all the lenses are assembled from the rear, are there still 3 metal pins in the barrel that came off? examine the end of the barrel that's still attached to the camera and see if there is a chip of plastic missing. I see above someone managed to put there barrel back in from the front, but I wouldn't attempt that as your likely to break something and would be lucky to get it back in the right way. to refit the final stage barrel you should really strip the lens from the rear and re fit it first. if you want to try and refit it from the outside as you have moved the other lenses back in its all in the wrong place and would need to be all the way out again to attempt.
cheers
jay
Ever since, when we go to turn it on, it just shuts off after saying "reading memory card" The lens also won't retract. I can retract it myself by turning it counterclock wise. We've tried hitting it, we've replaced the batteries, hitting it some more, and it's still not working, when i retract the lens myself and turn on the camera, the lens comes out fine, but then it shuts off at the same point, and the lens is left retracted.
If anyone has any suggestions, please get back to us.
.
That worked with my V610 after smacking it several times.
Most of the times, that problem is caused by the grease acumulated inside the camera.