Yep, EF mount lenses will work, but most likely only in manual focus. Wikipedia has an overview:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon... 

How to enable live view on the EOS Digital Rebel XS.

   1 Set the shooting mode.

* Set the shooting mode to a Creative Zone mode.
* Live View shooting does not work in Basic Zone modes.

2 Select [Live View function settings].

* Under the [6] tab, select [Live View function settings], then press <SET>.

3 Select [Live View shoot.].

* Select [Live View shoot.], then press <SET>. Select [Enable], then press <SET>.

4 Exit the menu.

* Press the <Menu> button to exit.

5 Display the Live View image.

* Press <SET>.
o The Live View image will appear on the LCD monitor.
* The Live View image will reflect the brightness level of the actual image you capture.
* If the image is too bright, turn the <> dial to the right. If it is too dark, turn the <> dial to the left.

Well...I had to look into this. I found a message board post with an email from a Canon customer service rep that states that Canon themselves do not refurbish cameras for sale under warranty in the US. If you're buying a refurbished Canon in the US, it was fixed up by a third party. This post was made back in 2007, so the policy may have changed, but I couldn't find anything on Canon's website about it. Here's the thread:

openphotographyforums.com/f...  know if I'd trust a camera refurbished by a third party -- could be fine, if it's a reputable place that does it, might not be.

It's still available in some markets, but IIRC it's been discontinued. Try Amazon.com

I'd go with the D3000. The 1000D is a tad long in the tooth now. But if you're open, then I'd recommend the T1i, as you get HD video as part of it.

But in truth, both are solid choices, with Nikon having a slight edge because you get legacy lens support spanning nearly 5 decades.

Digital zoom is no zoom at all. It's like blowing up a document on a xerox machine. It increases the size and lessens the quality. And no, DSLRs don't have that option. SD cards are used in the XS. So you're fine there.

Sure, it's okay. IT's just a tad slower than the class 6 when it comes to writing to the file.

You probably won't even notice the difference unless you're trying to shoot hardcore fast, with flash!

They're pretty much even. You're thinking right though to look at an entry level camera and then put your money where it counts - the lenses. Thinking of your camera as a system, where you can upgrade the body and continue to use the lenses makes good sense. Although the Canon XSi, though a bit more expensive, has optical image stabilization, nice when you're just starting out.

That sort of function is far better suited for software like Adobe Photoshop Elements where you can have control over sharpness, lighting, etc. and make adjustments as you need, rather than to accept the compromises of simple solution in camera.

Well according to what I've read, you can. But what I'm saying is that you can isolate exactly what you want to superimpose and control clarity, light, and more.

User reviews are how the cameras are ranked. And sometimes, you can get several negative reviews or positive reviews stuffing the ballot box and skewing the results. Which is why I always recommend tossing out the highs and the lows automatically to get a more accurate representation ...



But after using the XSi for about a year, I can tell you it's a fantastic camera.

The Canon XS is an excellent choice. But I'd also make sure you have a flash diffuser to even out the flash as you take it to eliminate that hot spot ....

A diffused flash is not concentrated or localized into a set area (that hotspot you see on pictures). Using a diffuser can spread out the flash to make lighting more even. You can pay for them, they're a tad pricey. Or, you can use something like opaque paper or take a white plastic film cannister and cut a slit in it. Then you can slide it over the flash itself and the light will be diffused, spreading the light or softening it's impact, rather than a bright spot in the middle washing out the subject.

Oh yeah, sorry about that. Forgot. The basic difference is optical image stabilization. The XSi has it and is where the lens has a mechanism which will adjust for camera shake by moving the lens elements to counter it. Other differences can be seen by going to the Canon XS site. In the upper right hand corner you'll see a button for "choose the right product." Then, click on "product comparison." A pop-up window will let you compare up to three cameras for features. This will give you a chance to compare them side by side to see the differences, and similarities.

A studio? Well, as long as you have proper lighting, it'll work just fine. It largely depends on what you're shooting, etc. But it's a solid entry level camera.

Depends on your skill level. If you're a novice, you're probably better off sticking with the XS. If you need a little more versatility, the extra cash is worth it for the XSi.

It very well could be, but I think that you could save a little money and go with the XTi, and then take the extra cash and invest in a better, faster and longer lens. But sure. The XS is great for art photography.

Great! Do yourself a favor and get a 1A skylight filter for any lens you have for it. Reason being ... insurance. I can't tell you how many times I saved the lens by trashing that filter.

Pretty much a photo finish (pardon the pun). The real edge comes to Nikon with it's 50 year legacy of lenses you can use on manual, whereas the Canon will only accept EF grade lenses.



Both, however, are fine cameras.

Should I get the ef 75-300mm lens or the 55-250 with stabilizer. for my eos Rebel xs What is the price difference?

Best bet is a good 80-200 zoom. Covers everything from portaits to distance shots. If you don't take a lot of zooming, and prefer landscapes, then a good 18-55mm zoom works nicely.

Go for Canon 17-55 if money is not the issue.

The camera would work just fine; the thing to focus on would be the lens. It's the speed of the lens that will make or break a low light fast-action situation like a concert. I shoot with the Canon 2.8 50mm lens at concerts, and it works beautifully. The lens is cheap - around 50 dollars. I have the Canon 40D, a very similar camera to this one, and the setup of the two together is ideal.



The key is also to set the camera to either Manual mode or shutter priority. Keep shutter speeds fast and kick up the ISO if need be; better a grainy photo than a blurry one.

I'd also recommend bringing along a monopod if security will let you. It'll help guard against camera shake in low light situations in the "mosh pit." LOL.

For point and shoot cameras, the issue now is that manufacturers are stuffing chips with more and more MP, without increasing the size of the chip itself. This tends to create a chip that is actually less sensitive to light, not more, and that leads to more noise in the pictures at higher ISO settings in low light.



But in the SLR world, the chips are much larger and as such, this isn't as much of a problem. Ideally, you want as much MP as you can afford. The XT is a good entry level camera, but for a little more, you can invest in the XTi which has more MP and additional features.

According to Crave, that info is coming in July. So patience, young padawan. You'll know soon. What would I do? Get the XSi.

I don't know that the price will go down since they're different cameras. It's not like the XT vs. the XS. But there are advantages to the XSI:



Can be operated with a wireless IR remote

Infrared sensor on the Canon XSi _ 450D



The XS / 1000D doesn't have this option, but rest assured that both the XSi and XS can be controlled remotely via third-party Radio Frequency (RF) shutter release remotes such as the Phottix Cleon C6.

Bigger LCD

Greater resolution

12 MP on the XSi / 450D vs 10 MP on the XS / 1000D.

Higher number of AF points

The XSi / 450D has 9 vs the XS / 1000D which has 7.

Better center AF point sensitivity

The XSi / 450D has a high-precision sensor in the center AF point which gives greater autofocusing accuracy with fast lenses, that is, lenses with a maximum wide-open aperture of f/2.8 or greater.



If you shoot a great deal of moving subjects and anticipate purchasing these (very often) more expensive fast lenses to take advantage of the greater AF accuracy, then the XSi / 450D is the camera to get as the 1000D / XS does not have this high-precision center AF sensor.



Better burst rate

On paper, the XSi / 450D is only slightly faster at 3.5 fps (frames per second) than the XS / 1000D which manages 3 fps, but this is only applicable to shooting in JPEG mode.



Where the really XS / 1000D pales in this comparison is the burst rate in RAW mode - it's only 1.5 fps.



In contrast, the XSi / 450D manages the same 3.5 fps in RAW mode.



This is a big deal if you're going to be shooting bursts in RAW mode a lot.



Spot metering

A built-in spot meter in the camera is a boon to photographers who like to set the exposure from a small spot in the frame rather than letting the camera evaluate the entire scene and deciding on the exposure for you. The 1000D / XS does not have this capability.



14-bit vs 12-bit



Highlight Tone Priority

Better VF





And it's here now. Course, it's up to you if you can wait and can do without this stuff.

We're happy to help, B. And by all means, do let us know what you end up doing. And when you get it, post a shot or two on flickr and point us to it.



Cheers.



JD