Canon EOS 450D
Posted on 05/22/2008
The New Digital Rebel: Exceptional, Impressive
Review By Michael Patrick Brady, Editor
The Canon 450D was a hotly anticipated new digital SLR, and we're pleased to find that it continues the long Digital Rebel tradition of superlative cameras that blend high-end performance with entry-level ease and comfort.
Canon's 450D: The Canon Digital Rebel XSi
The Canon Digital Rebel line is long and illustrious, earning high marks with its blend of high-end photographic power with a casual, user-friendly approachability. It's no surprise then that the Canon Digital Rebel XSi (also known as the 450D) was one of the most hotly anticipated new releases this year, and even less of a surprise that it's an extraordinary camera that lives up to the Digital Rebel name.
Many of the features present on the Digital Rebel XSi have been appropriated from Canon's premier pro-SLR, the Canon 40D, like the 3.0-inch Live View LCD display. Still, the XSi also forges its own path with some fancy features of its own, besting the 40D with its 12.2 megapixel CMOS sensor and abandoning the traditional CompactFlash memory card for Secure Digital.
Design
The Canon Digital Rebel XSi is exceptionally light, replacing the heavy magnesium alloy body of the 40D with plastic. Despite this, the XSi still feels quite sturdy and the rubberized hand grip provides a comfortable place to grasp the body and keep it steady. The button layout is logical, and each function is easy to access with the sweeping thumb of the right hand.
The large, 3.0-inch LCD screen dominates the back of the camera, and provides all the vital information about the shooter's current mode and settings in vivid color. Canon has made excellent use of the large screen, displaying information in clear, easy-to-read text, both on the status screen and on the camera's menus.
Though the XSi touts Live View functionality, which allows users to preview their shots on the LCD screen, it's not the amazing feature that some make it out to be. It provides a good representation of the scene, but seems inadequate when contrasted with the XSi's excellent optical viewfinder. Live View is nice to have as an option, but the viewfinder works so well that it'd be hard to bypass it in favor of the LCD.
Performance
We used a Canon EFS 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens with the XSi, and out of the box noticed something quite amusing. When the image stabilization switch on the lens was turned on, the camera would emit a high-pitched whine that only the younger people in our office could hear. Older colleagues could not detect the sound.
For those who could hear it, it was somewhat irritating, and when the camera was pointed directly at their heads, the sound quickly became unbearable. It was less of an issue for the person taking the photo. Turning the IS switch to off eliminated the problem.
In our tests, we found it difficult to take a bad photo with the XSi. We do a lot of testing with low-end, budget, and consumer digital cameras and it's often extremely difficult to coax a decent looking photograph out of them. The difference between such cameras and a well-made digital SLR is apparent. The XSi captured excellent, highly-detailed photos that never disappointed.
The XSi has a number of helpful modes that configure the camera's settings to the unique needs of a scene. The first set of modes is called the "basic zone," and this includes standard scene settings such as portrait, sports, macro, and night scene, as well as the camera's automatic mode. The second set of modes is called the "creative zone," and includes modes that allow for greater manual control and adjustments: program auto, shutter-priority, aperture-priority, automatic depth-of-field, and manual exposure.
Take a look at our sample photos to get an idea of what the Digital Rebel XSi is capable of.
Conclusion: An SLR Superstar
The Canon Digital Rebel XSi would make an excellent high-end introductory camera for an aspiring photographer or ambitious novice. Though it's far removed from the typical consumer point-and-shoot digital camera, Canon has taken great pains to uncomplicated what could be a very complicated gadget. The XSi is a worthy addition to the Digital Rebel line and should be strongly considered by any consumer interested in taking their photography seriously.
Canon Digital Rebel XSi Comments & Questions (write your own!)
James is right, make sure you purchase from the Canon EOS line though.
Andrew
ONLY WITH THE EOS SYSTEM LENSES FROM WITHIN 20 YEARS, WHICH IS NOW CANON'S EOS 20TH YEAR ANNIVERSARY.
HOWEVER, SINCE THE DIGITAL REBEL XSI, REBEL XTI, REBEL XT, REBEL, 20D, 30D, AND 40D ALL HAVE SHORT BACK DIGITAL SENSOR FOCUS, YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK AT AND PURCHASE CANON'S DIGITAL EF AND EF-S LENSES FOR THESE PARTICULAR CANON DIGITAL SLR CAMERAS.
YOU MIGHT WANT TO ALSO LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING INEXPENSIVE VERY GOOD 3RD PARTY DIGITAL ONLY LENSES SUCH AS THE SIGMA, TAMRON AND TOKINA LENSES. LOW COST AND WORK VERY WELL.
BTW - Fijiman, not sure if you realize this, but in internet "Netiquette," USING ALL UPPER CASE LIKE THIS is considered screaming. I'm sure you weren't aware of it, but FYI.
Andrew
If you are in the USA, then there is no better and cheaper market for buying electronics, comparatively any where else in the world. The 40D can be had for around 1100 USD (body only).
Lastly how well do you deal with regrets? In case you have any if you do not buy the 40D
If you were me, what regrets would you have if you purchased the XSi over the 40D? And why? Thanks!
40d-
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
450d-
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
I don't think there are any major differences, just the 40d enjoying a few benefits of being a pricier model... just that some of the same features of the 450d are present in the 40d to a bigger extent, like more presets, more lens compatibility etc... no major added features, and most of the features are almost exactly same, even the 3" lcd resolution, but yes, some shutter speed advantage is available in the 40d, and also there is a pentaprism viewfinder(compared to a pentamirror one in 450d)... However, on the other hand the 450d has got a really useful feature, which is the live-view - like the P&S models u can view the picture in the lcd WHILE COMPOSING. I personally think this is a really welcome addition, and MOST PROBABLY the 40d is lacking this feature, like most of today's dSLRs...
However, I would personally suggest you to rather wait for the reviews to come out before goiing with a SLR... But considering the fact that even the model is not yet available, it means waiting for quite a few months, so it all depends on how urgent your need is, that is, how soon u r moving to Beijing...
Hope I was able to help a bit...
-Abhi.
dpnotes.com/canon-40d-vs-ca...
.I want to get a good DSLR for astrophotography in about 1 year and than the small Borg 101ED and EQ6 mount 1 month later after I am confident in th operation of the DSLR. I dont want to spend money on a dedicated CCD camera for astrophotography only. Prefer DSLR camera to use on both regular photography and astrophotography. Dont want to spend the big money for a Canon 5D ( great camera for astrophotography). The 450D will bet less than the 40D. Wonderig if the 450D would be better for middle grade astrophotography than the 40D. The price of the 450D looks good. Again I will wait for further reviews of the 450D. I agree its probably too early to tell. Tom E
I have not used the 450d for astrophotopgraphy yet, but will find the liveview very useful, as I have always found focussing on the 350d when attached to a telescope very hard.
Sell em all on eBay and get the right zoom lens for that new XTi.
But I agree, digital is the future. Just back up early and often.
But the real issue here is that additional 2Megapixels. If you're going to be shooting alot of enlargements over 8x10, you may want to go with the 450D. If not, then why not look at the 400D? Very similar camera except less MP, which isn't necessarily a bad thing if most of your pics are snapshots.
Even more important, Olympus Zuiko Digital is the best lens system in existence. The ZD 50mm/f2 Macro produced the cleanest images ever measured at slrgear.com, and was instrumental in my choice of the E-510 (its phenomenal for portraits).. The 50-200 zoom... 11-22... 14-54... and even the kits lenses. No other company produces such consistently exemplary glass.
You mention professionals. for 2006-2007, Olympus received the coveted EISA Professional Lens Award for its Super High Grade lenses, the first and only time a manufacturer has received the award for an entire lens line.
But to the immediate question at hand -- 450D vs E-510 -- compare the kit zooms at Dpreview.com. Compared to Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony, Dpreview called the Olympus 14-42mm "top of the class". The Canon 18-55mm IS's image quality falls apart at full extension, being barely acceptable at f11 only, whereas the Olympus was still producing excellent images wide open at f5.6! The Canon has a narrow little focusing ring dangerously close to the front element, whereas the Olympus has a wide professional-type focusing ring set well back from the glass. The Canon's front element rotates, making the autofocus incompatible with lenses like polarizers. The Olympus front element is stationary. The Olympus is smaller and lighter.
If you want to the best high end normal zoom, Dpreview says it's the Olympus 12-60mm (24-120mm eq. inq 35mm) The only lens given its "Highly Recommended" nod. Likewise at Popphoto, the 12-60mm is the highest rated normal zoom lens in its class (if such a wide 5x range can be called 'normal').
At Popphoto, the 50-200mm is the highest rated telephoto zoom.
The Olympus 50mm macro (100mm eq. in 35mm)is a lens truly in a class by itself. The sharpest lens ever tested at Popphoto. The sharpest lens ever tested at Slrgear.com.
But my favorite is the Oly 40-150mm (80-300 eq. in 35mm equiv) included in the E-510 two lens kit. Looks and feels like a kit normal zoom rather than a 300m eq. lens, yet with image quality more comparable to Canon 'l' glass than to their consumer stuff. Slrgear says, "According to our lab results, at ƒ/8, lenses don't get much sharper than this." Image softness never exceeds 3 blur units at any focal length/aperture. Unbelievable performance for a kit lens.
Canon makes some great equipment, but they make some real dogs as well. By contrast, with Olympus you can pretty much pick the type of lens and price range, and be assured of getting a top performing optic.
But certainly Olympus deserves the awards they receive.
DCviews is a good place to start, as it has a list of reviews for each specific camera (e.g., for the XSi: dcviews.com/_canon/450d.htm)
Canon XSI
ISO 100 - 1600
AEB Support
3.5 FPS
3" Screen
9- point AF
14-bit image processing
Prime lenses
Nikon D60
3 FPS
ISO 100 - 3200
2.5" Screen
3 Areas
12-bit image processing
NO AF-S Prime lenses available
I'm sure I could have missed some, pick the specs that meet your needs and purchase.
JP
As good? Again, your mileage may vary. I'm not saying the D40 isn't a good solid camera, it sure is. But your statement is long on platitudes and short on evidence to support them.
But I do give you this - how the camera feels in your hand is half the battle, IMHO. And often, when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
But there's a reason the D40 is half the price, it has half the processing power.
I will agree with you that for those on a budget, the D40 is a great way to jump into the pool. Then you can take the extra cash and invest in quality lenses you can carry over to more advanced camera bodies later in your experience.
And Rockwell is pretty correct when he says "Its less sensitive to light because the pixels have to be made smaller to cram more of them into the same-sized sensor." This is the common shortcoming in point and shoot cameras where the thinking is "more megapixels must be better." But without a corresponding increase in chip size, one ends up with a less sensitive to light situation and more noise at higher ISOs. For more on this check out - this study ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) by Image Engineering.
Well i just wanted to add one thing that im most certainly sure about is that a Nikon body accept the widest variety of lenses from 3rd party manufacturers and are a lot cheaper [i hope im right there]
JP i just wanted to ask u about the lens u have the 18-200mm VR... may i please know the Make n the price?
thank u
Here's the Rockwell link to it:
kenrockwell.com/nikon/18200...
Get one, you won't regret it.
Enjoy!
wish u all the best !!
4.98 x 3.71 x 2.63 in./126.5 x 94.2 x 64mm
DR XSi - Dimensions (W x H x D)
Approx. 5.1 x 3.8 x 2.4 in./128.8 x 97.5 x 61.9mm
Just a hair larger. But just to be safe, why not bring your housing into a brick and mortar camera shop and see if it fits?
While the Sony A350 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does have a higher resolution than the Canon XSi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), I'm not too sure it measures up in other specifications other than price. What do you get with an extra $100 on the Canon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )?
The Canon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does accept SD and SDHC while the Sony ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) used CompactFlash cards. Both cameras have next generation processors, and auto or fully manual settings. The Sony ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a longer flash range (39 ft vs 12 ft), but an external flash will fix that. The Canon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) comes with a multi-point AF selector that ties your exposure metering to that point.
In my opinion, you need to ask what you want more. If you have lenses that will fit either camera, I would go with whatever they fit. Your real budget is going to go towards the lenses. If you want to stay under $1000 for a complete kit. I'd actually recommend a lower priced version of either camera.
A good lens is going to run you a couple extra hundred dollars if not more if you want good night shots. Things you'll need to invest in for low light shooting with these cameras are a tripod and/or monopod, and a fast lens (F2.8 or wider). A good multi-purpose lens of that caliber will run a minimum of $400 to $500 by itself. That's the price of quality in your photography. You need to ask yourself if it's worth it though.
I would also recommend picking up a higher capacity memory card, an extra battery or two, a good camera bag, and some lens filters for different lighting situations. That can set you back another few hundred dollars. I'm not saying you need all this at once. The camera with basic lens and a bag should be enough to start you off, but you'll find yourself wanting the extras sooner rather than later. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thank you so much for your reply. There is so much to think about when weighing cameras, the help is VERY much appriciated. I really should have worded my question better I think. I keep retyping to try to get it right. I do a lot of Theatrical Photography, not professional or anything, but, I am getting asked more and more to come at take pictures. I love it, and my current camera is very cool, it has full manual so I can get some good shots. But I think it is time to move up to a DSLR. The fixed lense just does not have a low enough F stop on it to get what I want. Both the Canon and Sony will take some older lenses, which are not too hard to find, but that just makes it harder to decide. I looked at the Nikon D60 also, but the higher resolution on the others is just pritty darn tempting to see, but do not really know how much difference that will make. But, I just love taking pictures so the theatrical stuff is not all I do...gee now I'm rambling.
Again, thanks for the help, I appriciate all the good points you brought up and I know I will want the extra's sooner than I feel like I should.
Many thanks,
Santez
I'm glad we could help. Remember that with higher resolution cameras, you need a larger processor as well to handle the increased memory. A faster memory card is also recommended. You can actually get great photos with an 8MP dSLR with what you're working with. Couple that with a lens of at least f/2.8 or even f/1.4 and you should get some great shots in the theater without having to use a flash. You're also going to want more of a zoom lens, so the in-lens IS might be a better choice for you (so you can get closer to the action on stage).
If you do want to get close-ups of the action on stage, I would also recommend a tripod or monopod. You can find these items in major retailers for under $20. I just bought a basic tripod for my father-in-law for $15 after shipping on MicroCenter.com ( microcenter.com ).
A good way to save some money on these items is to also get them refurbished. I've had decent luck on eBay and Craigslist finding used and refurbished camera equipment. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Again, many thanks. I will start shopping now.
I'm glad we could be of assistance. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
Even I,m weighing the Sony A350 as compared with some others. I cant ignore it's few unique features like the live view,tiltable lcd panel and compatibility with the great Carl Zeiss optics!! . Add to these-14.2mp and more powerful in-built flash.One draw-back I read somewhere is getting the subjects' eyes closed (after pre-flash) in many of the flash snaps.
Bill
plz reply me and suggest me if possible my budget is under 1000-1200$
Either camera will be great for macro shots. What you really need is a good lens to go with either camera. I would recommend something like a 50MM f/2.5 macro lens or a 100mm f/2.8 macro lens will get you the best results. Most smaller zoom lenses also have a macro function, but won't get you that 1 to 1 lifesize ratio you're looking for. They are often 1/3 or 1/2 actual size. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Your lens suggestions were awesome.....thank you so much Andrew.
So many people will argue that Nikon is better, and other argue that Canon is better. In my opinion, you can't really go wrong with either. I personally shoot with Canons because I am more comfortable with their user interface.
I would suggest that you go into a retailer like Ritz, Penn Camera, or Wolf to test a camera out. These types of retailers allow you to hold the body in the store and take test shots to see if you like it. Some will even allow you to rent a camera for the day. If the camera feels comfortable in your hand, and you like the user interface settings, then go with that model. You'll take better pictures if you are more confident in being able to use the particular model. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I had a question that i needed to ask yall experienced people... do u think its a good idea to get the 450D... now im asking this keeping in mind the price of the lenses n all.
Secondly, I am looking for a lens for Canon D 450... maybe something which has like a 20 x zoom and i also wanted to know which one would be a normal lens ... or can i use the zoom lens to also take normal standard pictures ... thank u
forgive me if my questions sound stupid..
thank u
Right now the 450D body only is around $800 (the body with the kit, all purpose lens, is a bit more but prices are dropping). The kit lense will give you the range for "standard" pictures, but you will need to change lenses to zoom. A good zoom lens to give you the distance that you want will be $400 - $500. The S5 already has a zoom up equivalent to 432mm, so to get any improvement you would need to get a zoom lens with something like 70mm - 300 mm (which on a canon would be equivalent to 112mm - 480mm). Bigger lens exist, but the price just keeps going up.
You will notice a great improvement in picture quality though. The 450D will just take nicer, sharper pictures...no questions about it. It has a bigger "brain" and will better be able to figure out what would make the pictures look better. Plus you will have more control to make the picture do what you want. I think before you start investing too much money in on it, you might want to do some more research online or pick up a book on basic dslr functions. It can get really confusing in the beginning until you understand what the terms all mean. There aren't any stupid questions when you are actively trying to learn something new.
I got the camera with the standard 18-55 IS which works fine. As I could not afford one of Canons L-series lenses, I got a Sigma 18-200 DC OS lens (OS means Optical Stabilizer equiv. to Canons IS) - the pictures from this lens are almost as good the ones from the 18-55 lens. Autofocus is a bit slower though, especially at the far end of the tele range.
I'm not sure the type of camera it was other than it being a canon (d?) 8 megapixel w/lense.
I would like to able to take fast action shots, low lit or candle lit weddings, and far distance landscape shots. I'm not sure of the settings for each and what camera and lense is recommended. Please help
Thanks,
Dee
The Canon XSi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) listed above would be a fantastic fit. I've shot a few weddings ( blackdoorphotos.com/wedding... ) using a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I would recommend getting yourself an external flash like the Speedlite 430EX ( amazon.com/Canon-430EX-Spee... ) and a fast, telephoto lens like a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 ( amazon.com/Tamron-AF17-50mm... ). You might want to get a longer lens as well (up to 200mm) to utilize a shorter depth of field and get more artistic shots.
If you do shoot weddings, make sure you pack plenty of batteries and extra memory cards. I would suggest taking the photos at the largest size, with the highest resolution to give you the largest print sizes you can get. This also will aide if you have to do any cropping later for different print sizes.
Any of the cameras listed above will also work great for the artistic shots you want to get. They have full manual control for maximum flexibility. I would also recommend taking a course in photography at your local community college or even a more inclusive correspondence course. I've sharpend my skills through the New York Institute of Photography ( nyip.com )'s Professional Photography program. It really helped me learn alot more about the ins and outs of my camera and photography in general.
Hopefully my rambling has helped you out today. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
When a person holds a camera their hand shakes a bit. If the camera shutter speed is too slow (usually >1/Lens Focal lenght seconds) the shaking will make the picture blur, even if the subject of the picture is motionless. IS is intended to eliminate the effect of this hand shaking, allowing a slower shutter speed to be used so a picture can be taken in darker conditions.
IS will not help reduce blur occuring because your subjects are moving fast (as they would be when you are taking pictures at a soccer game, which would presumably be well-lit also) so using a lens without IS for that purpose will not matter too much (IMO).
Cheers Del.
here is one(not mine)
flickr.com/photos/orcawizar...
If you are planning on spending less then most any Canon will give you good results.
Here is a good place to look around. imaging-resource.com/WB/WB.HTM
Without knowing what kind of picture taking we're talking about here, it's hard to go on what you've given us.
A little more info will open up a plethora of options!
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
my choice would either a panasonic tz3/ tz5
it small light and easy to carry around
it has a great wide angle 28 mm lens
have a look at this flickr album to see this camera in action
flickr.com/photos/33748762@...
Also, one last thing. Even though you don't want to be a photographer, do invest in a good light box set and tripod. It will make all the difference when taking pictures of fine art.
Your answer will be of great help to me.
I was ready to purchase the Xsi when I found a great deal on the Canon 40D on Ebay. $960 w/ 18-55 IS lens & kit. It's a few bucks more than the Xsi, but well worth the difference.
What is the next level?
Eliza
Finally, some IS systems act erratically if you use them with the cam mounted on a tripod. This is because the system expects a certain amount of shake, and if you are doing a very stable shot with the IS on, the camera may overcompensate.
The Nikon and Canon cameras also have image stabilization; the difference is that it's located in the lenses rather than in the camera body. If you were going to use a huge range of lenses, it would be helpful to have stabilization in the body (so that it would work with any lens you put on), but if you plan on buying the camera with a lens and using lenses that are made to go with it (rather, than, say, your old film camera lenses), the Nikon and Canon systems both work great.
First of all, all the cameras you've named are great choices for the situation you've described. I would personally go with the Canon XSI. While they're all pretty similar in terms of level and all can take good photos, I think the Canon auto focus system is faster than the Nikon, its image sensor is better than that of the Sony (particularly in low light situations), and it has a wider selection of lenses available than the Nikon. I know that right now the availability of lenses won't affect you much, but since you mentioned not wanting to upgrade in the near future, here's my bit of advice: upgrading for dSLR cameras consists largely of lenses rather than bodies. If you buy a decent body and want something more to do with it in the future, you'll probably be interested in new lenses to expand your camera's capability. So I'd buy the body with the widest selection of affordable lenses, and in my experience that's the Canon.
Bob
Bob
A good 18-105mm lens may do the trick.
1. Avoid Kodak if at all possible.
2. A digital SLR (like the A200/A300) is ALWAYS going to produce superior photo quality (or have the capability to do so) to a non-dSLR. This is due to the size of the dSLR sensors--they're many times the physical size of those in point & shoot cameras like the H50 but capture the same number of pixels. This means that the pixels are less crowded and each gets more light--the end product is less image noise and a clearer, crisper picture.
dSLRs have other advantages as well, such as changeable lenses (which offer a wider variety of shooting possibilities than you can get with a fixed lens camera), more responsive behavior (no shutter lag), better autofocus, better/clearer/more accurate viewfinders, etc etc. In short, if you can afford one and don't mind the bulk, you can't do any better for image quality. And all dSLRs have very good automatic modes that are workable even for those using a camera for the first time.
As for online vs. brick & mortar purchasing... online will always be cheaper. You just need to pick your online merchant carefully. There a lots of shady "gray market" dealers that will attempt to scam you. You can trust the big names like Amazon, Buy.com, etc, and some smaller ones like buydig.com, beachcamera.com, etc. Generally, if in doubt, check a store's ratings on resellerratings.com.
Hope this helps!
As for SONY, although improved greatly than it's predecessors, the Alpha is essentially a redesigned Minolta since Sony inherited their failing camera business when Minolta got out of the game. It's getting a lot of good press, to be sure, as a DSLR, but Nikon and Canon are still the best DSLRs in the category. I'd recommend the Canon DR XSi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I've had one for about 2 months now and it's been an outstanding camera.
Elliott, u can use most of the canon film lenses, ie, any canon lens that has got an 'EF' mount. Non-EF mount Canon lenses are there, but those are VERY old, and rare to come across...
And for NON-CANON ones...
1. There are a whole lot of nice n cheap(in the good sense) lenses MEANT FOR canon EF mount by third party manufacturers like Sigma, Tamron, Tokina... and the recently announced ZEISS!! u can use these without a problem...
2. For other lenses which are NOT meant for canon, u can use some, or maybe many of them, but u'll be needing seperate mount converters for them.I am not quite sure about their price, availabitlity, usefulness, and convenience of use.
But these should not be a matter of concern as Canon itself has got a huge lineup of EF and EF-S lenses
Hope that helps...
If you are only taking family pictures, wildlife and landscape, there is not much difference whether you buy a 40D or Digital Rebel XSi, whereas if you want to learn more about a particular model, then there is nothing like owning one.
By present day standard, 10 mega pixel sensor is good enough for the use of average consumers, while professionals may want more for giant blowups for advertisement purposes. In this sense, you really need not care much about the extra 2 mega pixels, if you don't need it.
I am desperately looking for an entry-level DSLR; preferably under $5/$600. I recently spent about $400 on the Canon SD950 Elph p&s but unfortunately did not research that purchase well enough as I am now disappointed with several factors. I am looking at the DSLRs because I want more ability to maneuver a scene than what I can get from a P&S. I want to be able to practice my amateurish photography skills but want a reliable auto program that will still produce a nice picture for when I don't have time to deal with manual controls. I take pictures constantly especially now that I have a new baby and I would love for my photographs to be a little better than your 'average' baby picture. But I am now starting to feel like I'm going crazy with the research... in the meantime, my baby is not so new anymore, & I am missing special moments that I would have liked to capture with a new camera. Do you guys have any recommendations? I would truly appreciate any advice you might have for someone in my position! Thanks!
Click SLR/Professional and you will see most of the popular dSLR, with pictures, prices and brief description.
Among the under $500 category, probably Nikon D40 is the best buy at $448.95 while paying a little bit more you can try the Canon Digital Rebel XSi.
Canon Digital Rebel would be a better choice because of the live view LCD display, not to mention the 12.2 megapixel sensor. However, most shops price the camera at well above $500 and you may find it hard to keep within your budget.
It would be nice to have if your budget is not limited to below $500. In fact if you want to see what others are buying, log on to <a href="popphoto.com/cameras/5340/b... site</a> and you will see the list of top selling dSLRs.
E420 is the latest replacement for E410. The notable features of E420 include light weight body and live view LCD. It is an SLR that is closest to the point and shoot camera, particularly when it is fitted with the 28mm ' pancake lens '.
You don't see a lot of recommendations for Olympus probably because among the people in your circle, there are more users of Canon and Nikon cameras.
But if you do meet the die-hearts, professional and average user alike, they will swear that Olympus Zuiko lens is the best, just like Nikon fans will say the same for Nikon lenses and Canon fans will buy nothing but Canon lens.
Thanks
dSLR is in a world by itself, where everything a professional wants to do can be done easily, for advertisement, scientific research, art, infra-red photography, or whatever.
P&S one the other hand has it's limitations but better meet the everyday use of the general public.
It is compact, simple to operate, not so expensive and gives reasonably good pictures, even up to 8R size.
People who are deeply interested in photography will want a dSLR because it opens up a new horizon that does not seem to have a limit. There are so many things you can do with dSLR and more capabilities are added every year,that keep you going with no end at sight.
People who just want to take record of everyday life, holidays, kids, friends, parties, etc will opt for P&S.
No serious photography, but lots of fun.
So, sit back and ask yourself, what you want to do with a camera. If you ask me, my guess is you belong to the second group. You probably just need a P&S for casual photography. No harm pampering yourself with a top of the line P&S, which you have already done, but no point buying a dSLR to do what the P&S can do for you.
The 3rd para in my last message " P&S one the other hand...... " should be " P&S on the other hand........"
I bought a Canon Rebel XSi. I still own a Canon 35mm & a Nikon 801 35mm film camera. If the Nikon D80 had dust reduction, I would have bought that. This is my first digital camera, too. Good luck to you - to us. Judy
Thanks so much for your input. You helped to give me more confidence in my decision. You're so right - if the moment is lost, what is the point? I, too, have had a Nikon 35 mm film camera for years (an old N50)...which I loved. So I wonder if you would mind expounding on why you chose the Canon over, say a similarly-priced Nikon? Thanks again for giving me your input; much appreciated.
Pam
I would have bought the Nikon D80 so that I could use my Nikkor lenses but I didn't like the idea of the lack of dust reduction system. I wanted to start simply but with a reputable brand so with advice from this site chose the Canon XSi. I have only had it a week so have not begun to experiment yet.
I do know that it's like having an old friend back when I press the shutter and have instant reaction. I feel in control again....or at least like I'm working WITH a camera, not battling one.
It's learning a new medium and as soon as I relax, I'll begin to learn faster.
I bought the Canon, returned it, bought it again, and thought "What the hell, it's only a camera." If you don't jump in, you'll never learn to swim.
Judy
Yes I am definitely new to digital photography! I only just recently learned about the differences between JPEGs and other ways to format (mainly RAW) images. I don't know if it's ok to promote another website within this one but I will anyway...if you go to dpreview.com (Digital Photography Review), and click on the Learn/Glossary tab on the lefthand side, you will find a very informative place to go with your questions about 'everything digital'. I also took an online class for beginners "PPSOP"...that was VERY informative as well. I have some lenses myself that I would like to use (they are Tamron) but am thinking that maybe I should start from square one as the saying goes and worry more about the body at this point; I can choose my lenses later. I like your reference to the shutter/instant reaction - that's part of what I'm looking for since I have been missing many moments which so often are fleeting. Any DSLR will give you this of course (although I didn't know this when I originally got my P&S) so now the challenge is: which one? I am leaning toward the Xsi but I just want to make sure I won't regret not buying a Nikon.
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
I WAS ELATED when I found out the new XSI could house my old ELAN lenses. They fit great. I checked with Nikon it is a great camera. Personally it is your preference and how you are going to use your camera. I have used Canon for years and am familiar with their products.
Good Luck
As photographers, we need to move away from being body centric and think about a photo system. Bodies will come and go, but lenses are where it's at. And contrary to some on this forum who subsitute preference for facts, the lenses for Nikon and Canon are some of the best in the market. And as for third party lenses, SIGMA is giving both a run for their money in the quality for value category.
I think you'd pleased with either one, quite frankly. On a personal note, I have the XSi now and I simply LOVE it. Very responsive, fast focusing, sharp. Has great features. It's a great camera for those looking to enter the DSLR market or to get back into it after being lazy with point and shoots.
But Nikon is really making the best cameras right now.
I was initially struggling with the choice between Canon and Nikon, but the Circuit City salesman introduced the A300 into my decision. His main push for Sony was that the IS feature is built into the camera body instead of the lens.
How important is that? Are the VR lenses more expensive in the long run (I'm beginning with NOTHING)?
My gut is leaning towards the Canon, as it seems like the simplest of the three, but I would really love a quick and dirty advantage/disadvantage. I'm sure I wouldn't go wrong with any of the three, but I want the best for my $$! Thanks!
a. image stabilization in body let you use any compatible lens and still enjoy a stabilized image.
b. image stabilization in lens let you see, through the view finder, when to click as the image is being stabilized.
There are a few more differences such as costs, effectiveness and ultimately the lens system you prefer.
Cost :
IS lens costs more than non-IS lens. As you buy more IS lens, the difference become significant, unless you stop buying after the second lens of, say, 75-300mm. Usually you have to stick to Canon or Nikon IS lens and no others.
IS in body , on the other hand, let you use lenses from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina or any other brand that fits and you would expect the costs to be lower. This let you have choices of wider range of lenses.
Effectiveness :
Somebody brings up the point that IS in lens is more effective because vibration is amplified as it gets further away from the sensor. Stopping it at the lens is therefore better....... This appears to be debatable because Sony/Minolta, Pentax and Olympus won't invest so much on IS in body if it is not equally effective.
Preferred lens system :
Nikon fans will only use Nikon lens and Canon fans will do the same for Canon camera.
Ultimately, you have to decide whether you mind using Sigma, Tamron or Tokina lens because they may be cheaper.
To sum up, if cost is not what matters, there is not much difference whether you choose IS in lens or IS in body.
If you are Nikon or Canon fans, then the choice is obvious, no matter how much more you have to fork out.
In the other hand... in body stabilization, works with every lens you attach to the camera, and at no extra cost. And... despite all the advantages that Canon or Nikon owners can say about in lens system... they will never know the mind blowing experience of shooting with a 50 prime, aperture f1,4 at ISO 6400, with image stabilization: it opens doors that you never though they even existed.
Second... I will say why yes and why not each camera:
Nikon D60: this camera has a lot of things that are not good: only three AF points (although really fast as lenses are only AF-S which means that all lenses have a built in motor, so it's faster and silent), and no screw drive (this is the motor that moves the AF in lenses that don't have a built in motor... and some excellent Nikon lenses won't autofocus in this camera, because of that). Good things? Yes... really good to learn about photography with. It doesn't have Live View... but it's a feature that I don't use. Vibration reduction, only with lenses with that.
Canon XSi: the body feels really cheap. It has excellent image quality, but at this point... almost any camera will fit your needs about that. It is really better than the XTi... but still, feature wise, not near the competition. The AF is good, but is not that accurate with fast lenses (like the Canon 50 1,8). Image Stabilization, only with lenses that comes with it.
Sony A300: bad quality plastics. Good resolution... and good implementation of live view, for snapshots, since it allows really fast AF (but again... I'd not use this feature, as I think that a good viewfinder is 1000 better than good Live view). Sincerely... I'd never tell someone to buy this camera. Built in image stabilization is a good thing. Really noisy output... awful.
Olympus E520: fast AF. IS a good camera, and has a good kit lens that comes with it. It has a little more noise than the competition, but it has excellent colors. The camera feels OK in the hands... not THAT good, not cheap like the others. In body stabilization is a good thing, but Olympus lacks of lenses in the 4/3s system.
Pentax K200: biggest viewfinder of all. Weather sealed. Wireless flash compatible. Best kit lens (image quality wise). Not that much buffer, but more than enough for family shots. No Live view. The only one with a top panel LCD. Best (and... REALLY BEST) quality of the body of this class. Image stabilization that works with millions of lenses, even 40 years old lenses. There is glass that is really cheap, that you can use to learn.
This seems biased.... and it is. I own a Pentax K20, after owning another Pentax. And yes... it is as good as I described it. Maybe Pentax doesn't make the best cameras of all, but when it comes into discussion bang for the buck, Pentax is the winner.
Go for the Pentax K200... and you will not regret it. If you need more information about these cameras, go for dpreview.com
Alan Schamber.
It should not be assessed or measured in terms of ' greatness '.
Image stabilization in body, on the other hand, gives you no choice and you have to pay for it in advance even if you don't need it.
Buying a camera should take into account of all the features, not based on a single feature.
If one arrange all the features in order of preferences, image stabilization cannot be the most important one. There are better things to look for in a camera rather than that alone.
Just like there are fans of Pentax, there are fans of Canon and Nikon, not to mention Sony/Minolta.
Fans are expected to have one sided view, new buyers do not.
New buyers are encouraged to get details from <a href="google.com.sg/search?q=came... few camera reviews </a> to get an better idea of what to look for. One sided view tend to over emphasize on one make which is bad if you need to have more choices.
I simply said what is true... so despite being biased, you cannot argue that feature wise, the Pentax K200 is the best camera and more feature rich in this segment than any other.
And even... it is better built than every camera, including weather seals.
About Image Stabilization: ok... maybe at first you don't need it to be in the camera, but when you move and try to buy a long lens, you will notice that IS lenses in the Nikon and Canon brands, are 40% more expensive than non IS lenses. And you can argue a lot... but if the guy is wanting not to spend much, and needs to do sports (long lenses???) and want IS or SR or VR for doing it, in Canon or Nikon he will have to pay a LOT more to have that.
Too much.
Maybe it's too late, maybe it's not... but I think that after taking into account everything, shows that for the buck, neither Nikon or Canon are the way to go.
Alan.
In really dim light... yes: it has less noise, but in expense of colors. There are different types of noise reduction.
One type makes the image stay sharp, with little noise, but it makes colors awful, with no life. The other type... concentrates to make the colors stay as they are, vivid, and stay the image sharp, but at the expense of some noise... and also this noise seems to be like grain, while the other type of noise (in spite of being less) is digital noise, and is makes the image seem unnatural.
At the end of the day... it's a matter of taste. I prefer to retain colors rather than noise, since the noise is more grain like... it has more natural look.
At this point, I don't need to tell you which camera uses each kind...
my choice is the panasonic tz5
here is a link to show you what a tz5 can do
flickr.com/photos/beebee/27...
It is ideal for studio shooting, since it has really rich colors, and a really wide dinamic range.
It also comes with an X-sync for you to plug the flash, and 14.6 megapixels are way enough for more situations you will need.
It's also weather sealed, so you can be sure that you can take photos outside without anything to worry about... so nature, kids, trips are all allowed.
The only point that makes it not the best camera out there, is that it's just 3 fps... but if you are shooting only in the studio and trips, that's MORE than enough.
Alan.
The only two cameras that get near it's resolution are the Canon 50D and the Sony 350, but with downsides in both: no x-sync plug in the 50D, and really not useful for studio Live View function for the Sony (it just shows 82% of the actual image... not enough for studio work).
The other item is a LC1 Wireless controller and transmitter. I know that a new mini control will work from 16 foot away but I already own the LC1 that works great from 200 foot.
The receiver is hotshoe mounted but needs a pin connection to work (the Rebel XSi has a similar connection on the side)
With my Canon A1 I needed a motor drive but that was a thing of the past...OK will it work - Yes or No.
I have now received my camera (Canon XSi/450D) and can now report on the following...even though I have 0 points...
Canon SPEEDLITE 577G flash - I used the camera on AUTO and AV...
The flash works fine and sync's just fine - I used the flash with the the 24mm diffuser and selector to RED (2.5m-17m on flash) (1.5m-10m on diffuser) at 400 ASA. On the flash using the YELLOW or GREEN setting the flash seems to over expose the pictures.
I have just got the EOS after many years on a Canon A1. So lots of learning still to go...
Oh and btw the flash icon shows up through the viewfinder when switched on and the shutter speed automatically sets itself to 1/60(on auto) - so no error messages or any other issues that I can see. I used the camera at AUTO and AV.
I did find that the camera base (Canon 1 touch bracket G) for use on the A1 motordrive had 2 stops to ensure that it was straight - well I broke them off with a wrench as the EOS battery grip BG-E5 is flat and wide and the base would not sit flat - so I broke the stops off - moved the locking screw to another hole and I am good to go.
Operation of the LC1 Wireless controller and transmitter...
It works fine as long as the connection is not pushed in all the way - push it in but leave about 3mm from total seating of the connection base - you will loose auto focus - and only single shot at a time, not continuous shooting. But I can have control of up to three cameras with 1 transmitter from line of sight of 300+ feet (yes 300 feet) and from much closer I can activate from any position behind side front etc. Whereas the new RC 5 remote controller only works from in front of the camera (self portrait etc - but no good for humming bird pictures at my location)
It may happen in time to come when I get used to the camera, that some the above answers/statements may no long make much sense as it does today. For my inexperience I apologize and would be happy to edit for future readers my answer - please advise.
I gave you best answer - you won the race but you were the only one to run...
I was wondering if I could post a picture of the base or maybe a link where people could see a picture of it to see how I modified it.
That would be a good idea, Rob. My recommendation is to either post it on flickr ( flickr.com ), or to write up an entire tutorial and place it on Instructables ( instructables.com ) Then, link it back here.
here is alink to a flickr album showing tz5 in action
flickr.com/photos/teresaio/...
For this type of work, I'd recommend the Pentax K200 or K10 (since Pentax is known for the best texture images, since they have low anti aliasing filter), shoot RAW only, and use prime lenses for the best result.
I don't own, but as far as I know is an excellent lens for this... try the DA 35 limited lens of Pentax.
Alan Schamber.
the tz5 is a panasonic lumix camera
cameralabs.com/reviews/Pana...
the link is to show how well the camera handles tonal variations
Can you please help me
So, if you outgrow that XSi, you can seemlessly transition to a more advanced 40D, or even higher to a 5D. I don't think in the long term that the XSi will be any less beneficial than a 40D or above, but it will lessen the learning curve.
Hope that helps :)
also does anyone no the difference between the Rebel Tli and the XSi?
the best camera for you is the panasonic lumix tz5
cameralabs.com/reviews/Pana...
here are some links that show the tz5 in use
flickr.com/photos/8038353@N...
flickr.com/photos/respres/2...
best place to ask is here
dpreview.com/forums/forum.a...
Thanks for trying.
the best way round is to go to
onlineni.net/
and get a free e maill addresss then register with dp preview
I attempted to sign up for an email account through onlineni.net but the website would not allow me to. I'm not sure why but I couldn't even get the sign up page. I thought that possibly since this is a service for Northern Ireland that they would not allow someone with IP address in the USA to use it.
Thanks again for trying.
Obviously I am a novice and have only owned point and shoot cameras. Want to take the leap to an SLR that is going to take the best clear shots in light and dark , still and action, etc.. Basically, I want it all with a user friendly format.
Any suggestions? Thanks
Thanks so much for your reply.
Kim
Judy
As for point and shoots, sadly, lag is a way of life. It's the delay which happens between triggering the shutter and when the photograph is actually recorded. It's a common problem with point and shoot cameras. But there are ways to combat it.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Doing these, particularly prefocusing and panning with the action will cut your shutter lag by as much as 80%.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
I love my G10 and am loading more great pics on my jewelry website because it is just so darn easy to take them now.
Best wishes with this, Kim
maybe we could share things and ideas of things regard the jewelry
etsy.com/view_listing.php?l...
and this one
etsy.com/view_listing.php?l...
I think they turned out great and I did not have to adjust the levels on my computer. I took a class on my camera functions and there is so much this camera will do. I have not even scratched the surface of possibilities yet.
In the future, you only need to ask once. We're pretty thorough in addressing both models.
So, go for Canon Rebel XSi, it's a gem of an imaging equipment adored by many pros.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
5. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Doing these, particularly prefocusing and panning with the action will cut your shutter lag by as much as 80%.
I assume the always propose 18-55 is but what 1 or to other lenses would be good?
I just got my Cannon XSi a week ago and I love it so far. To answer your question as to the XTi or XSi, I guess that depends on the quality of photos you want. The XSi is 12.2 megapixels and the XTi is 10. The Cannon Powershot A520 you have is only a 4 megapixel so you would notice the difference in quality with the XTi and get even more withe the XSi. You also said that you mostly take "nature shots along with some sports". Both cameras have a continuous shoot mode which is nice for sports. Personally, if it were my decision to make, I would go with the XSi for the extra megapixels. I also like the larger viewing screen. The quality of the XSi is fantastic and I think you will be happy with it for a long time.
But here's the thing. You'll also want have a good lighting kit - like a light box which can effectively light your subject. There's a good lightbox kit at Hammacher Schlemmer for about $80 which will light your subject from three separate angles to evenly light it.
BTW, became a flickr member with the username "bdsanjeed". May I invite u to view my photostream shot with P&Ss? U can follow this link: www.flickr.com/photos/sanjeed/
Sanjeed is my nickname.
Thnx & rgds.
Quazi
Pls advise. Thnx in advance.
There's one interesting thing I discovered with my local fellow TTL (Thru The Lens) group members under flickr. All of them are decades younger to me and they revealed this fact. In that group, most of the Canon DSLR users (some of them use the same model as mine) shoot in RAW. Subsequently, they give their pictures amazing looks by post processing mostly in Adobe. They have advised me to do the same.
Could you please throw some light on that? Thnx again.
Some cameras have written into their firmware a process called "binning," which merges the signals of multiple pixels to make larger pixels. Usually at a 4-1 ratio. This will essentially turn a 12-megapixel camera into a 3-megapixel camera. And that gives you the opposite problem of too many pixels on the chip ... you now have too few and as such, will run into artifacting instead of noise.
And besides, you can change the size and quality with a photo editor like Google's Picasa ( picasa.com ).
Seriously though you want took look at the entire system if you are looking at SLRs and intend to peruse photography as a hobby for a long while. By system I mean look at what lenses and other accessories you will be buying. The thing to remember with SLRs is that the lenses are interchangeable among the same brand for the most part. You also have legacy glass you can pick up on the cheap at EBay.
The other thing to remember... you will be paying as much or twice as much for lenses as you do for the body. The good news is that the lenses, for the most part, are designed to last you a lifetime and will fit for the most part on upgraded camera bodies.
Using ZoomBrowser EX for printing
1. Start ZoomBrowser EX.
2. Select the image to be printed, and then click [Print & Email].
* To select multiple images, press the [Ctrl] key on the keyboard while clicking the images.
* If you click in the margins of a folder, you can select all of the images in that folder.
* To select multiple images, press the [Ctrl] key on the keyboard while clicking the images. If you click in the margins of a folder, you can select all of the images in that folder.
3. From the items shown, click [Photo Print].
4. When the [Photo Print] screen appears, make the following settings.
4-1. Make printer settings.
Select the printer to use in [Printer Name], and then set the [Media Type] and [Paper Size] for the paper to be used.
Also, if making settings for borderless prints, check the [Borderless] box (), and then click [Properties].
4-2. Set the shooting date/time and style
Click the down arrow next to [Shooting Date/Time] , select [Date/Time], [Date], or [Time], and then click [Properties].
5. When the [Shooting Date/Time] dialog box appears, set the styles for the dates to be entered.
Select the character style for the characters to be printed in [Font], and then select the character to use as the date separator.
Also select where the date and time should appear in the image in [Text Position].
When the settings are finished, click [OK] to close the dialog box.
Note:
If you select [Film Camera] in [Font], the character style will be set as shown below.
6. Make other settings as necessary, and then click [Print].
This completes the process of printing images with dates.
the new zx1 from pansonic lumix is getting very good reviews
photographyblog.com/reviews...
i think this would be a good starter camera for her
But full out or program settings? probably not.