Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D (Body Only)
- 4.0 out of 5
- 4.0 out of 5
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Research the Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D (Body Only)
Editors' Comments
The Canon Digital Rebel XTi (a.k.a. 400D) is the successor to the ever-popular Canon Digital Rebel XT/350D. Canon has made every effort to continue the affordability and power of the Digital Rebel line by bringing the 400D up to the 10 megapixel level, and introducing important features from their line of professional dSLRs. The Digital Rebel is a unique opportunity for curious and adventurous photographers to graduate from mainstream cameras and into the upper echelons of photography without getting too deep into unfamiliar territory or spending an exorbitant amount of money. The body-only model of the XTi/400d will cost only $799, with the lens-included model coming in at around $899.
The nine-point auto focus (a feature it shares with the 30D) provides faster, more accurate photos, and the 2.5-inch LCD is a marked improvement over the previous version's measly 1.8-inch display. For current XT/350D owners, the XTi/400D is an attractive upgrade, and for those who haven't yet graduated to prosumer digital cameras, this is the perfect opportunity. Don't hesitate, the Digital Rebel will change the way you take photos.
Note: This is the "body only" version of the Digital Rebel XTi. It does not come with a lens. For a lens-equipped version, click here.
Specifications
- 10.1 megapixels
- JPEG and RAW file formats
- DIGIC II Image Processor
- Canon EF / EF-S lens mount
- Auto and manual focus and exposure
- 9-point CMOS sensor auto focus
- ISO 100-1600
- 2.5-inch LCD
- Lithium-ion battery
- Compact Flash Type I or II storage, Microdrive support
- Vibrational/ultrasonic dust reduction and "dust mapping" for automatic post-production removal.
Comments on the Canon 400D
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Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D (Body Only) Reviews
Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D (Body Only) Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 4.0 out of 5
Hard to complain - this camera rocks and is very easy to use. Takes near perfect photos every time and my entire family loves it.
- 5.0 out of 5
You need to study and learn on how to use this camera properly then it will give you tons of great pics. I don't know about other users but i found its standard lens great, perfect for student of photography.
- 5.0 out of 5
I've always wanted to step up into a more professional style of photography, and now that I have this Canon I am ready to become an avid photog! I bought the 17-55mm Image Stabilized lens to start out with. The photos I have taken so far are absolutely fabulous! The camera is idiot-proof, I am taking great pictures and I haven't even read the owner's manual yet. The battery seems to last a LOT longer than regular point and shoot cameras I've had in the past. The auto focus is fast and precise, and the recovery time between pictures with flash is amazing. I can now take pictures as fast as I can push the shutter button! I highly recommend this setup to anyone looking to take incredible photos with an extremely easy to learn and use camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
I got this camera as a late birthday present and I love it. Great indoors and outdoors. Sunny or cloudy. I'm tired of the people complaining about how gross the photo's are coming out. READ THE MANUAL people. Use the right setting and ISO and shutter speed. Of course you'll get sucky photo's if you just randomly set things up and snap pictures. This camera is by far the greatest camera I've owned. It's light weight and you can pretty much carry it anywhere you wish. It's great for both amature photographers (like me) and professional.
- 5.0 out of 5
this camera is great! im just a kid but I am pretty good at photography and this camera makes me much beeter. the camera is small and easy to use, the only weakness it has is the lens which i plan to replace (isn't that the point of going DSLR?).
- 5.0 out of 5
The best camera I've owned. It even made me focus in taking a course in digital photography to take advantage of all its great features!
- 5.0 out of 5
When I usually go out and buy expensive things, I get the 2nd day doubt when I think about returning it.....but not with this camera. This was truly one of the best investments I have made. I use it every day on just every day things! I can take EXCELLENT pictures of my dogs playing and running in mid air, or I am always guaranteed to get the perfect shot of my neice and nephew, thanks to the fast acting camera! I have taken over 4000 pictures with my camera and the numbers keep going, but the camera still acts like brand new! I learn something new about it every day and I would truly recommend buying the book "Digital Rebal XTi/400D Digital Field Guide" by Charlotte K. Lowrie. It has helped make me feel more confident with the camera and I'm only one page 15 :) This was my first camera, EVER and I have produced pictures that look BETTER than a professional photographer. Just understand what each feature does and how you can personalize it to your own taste and you will have a blast with it!
- 5.0 out of 5
This is a great camera for the beginner and PRO alike.It takes a little time to learn all the great features it has but the time is well worth it.Canon just makes very good cameras,and they develop all their own software and hardware and also you have so many lenses to choose from.I highly recommend this camera to anybody wishing to upgrade to DSLR or to get an additional camera.
- 4.0 out of 5
Just got my 400D about 2-3 months ago, but so far I love it. I started in photography as a hobby about 1970 and was a little reluctant to put down my 35mm Nikon for digital.After a few point and shoots, I tried to take a realistic look at what I wanted out of the camera. So far it has lived up to my expectations.
My only con about the 400D is there seems to be some overlap in the different program modes as far as what they do or accomplish. I think Cannon could have actually cut back on a couple of programs, but no problem really. If you really don't need a 3500 dollar image stabilized camera, look at the EOS400D.
- 2.0 out of 5
I was shooting startrail 3 nights ago. The shutter was open for 6000 seconds and depth of field was 5,6. After downloading it on my PC, the photo was full of spots as if there were sand on the lens, which was not the case. You could see the startrails as well, but the spots was so disturbing, that you cannot use it for anything. If you contact me, I can mail you the photo, that you can see what I,m referring to.
- 5.0 out of 5
I received my Canon Xti last week. I had really been going back and forth trying to choose the Nikon D40 or the Canon Xti. After reading all the reviews and seeing examples of what this camera can do, I finally went with the Canon. I have owned several cameras by Canon in the past, point and shoot digitals and an SLR film camera. This is by far the best of all. I love this camera! Pictures are stunning. I just have the kit lens on now, but I have ordered a telephoto and a macro lens. The possibilities are endless. I can take pictures of animals and people without getting red eye. That's a big plus. If you're trying to make up your mind about what camera to buy, then get this one. You can't go wrong! I'm really happy with mine.
- 5.0 out of 5
Lets face it, this camera costs a bit more than the Nikon D40x (about $100 US more) but is ranked with high end Prosumer camera's like the D80 which is about $300 more. Therefore, the choice was simple. On top of the great features, this camera is exceptionally well build and takes really sharp images. I even thought that it feels better than holding the D40i (but offcouse is not as good as the D80).
I am just a amatuer but what the heck when I strap this baby on on my neck, I feel like a pro everytime.
I am happy I got this camera and probably one of the best investments I have ever made.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have owned a film SLR and numerous point and shoot digital cameras and this camera is by far the best ever!
If you are debating between XT and XTi, I highly recommend XTi.
Dust cleaning - it works! I had XT and consistently had dust problems that ruined my pictures. Brought in for cleaning almost every week at a camera store and it was getting really frustrating. With XTi, my blue skies come out clear and crisp with no annoying dots all over.
LCD - seems a lot brighter and is easier to see. LCD on XT was almost useless on a very bright sunny day by the water (pool, lake, etc.). With XTi, I can actually see the pictures and settings even on a bright day.
Button arrangements - I like it better on XTi. on XT, I mistakenly hit the buttons on the right hand side all the time (like timer mode, etc.). I think the XTi has better arrangements of buttons that reduce the chance of turning on/off the wrong buttons.
The dust problem on XT was driving me crazy so that alone is worth the $200 difference to me.... If you know how to clean and have the patience and technique to clean the sensor well, you may be happy with XT.
I've read problems with underexposure and poor resolution with increased pixels (which I don't quite understand) but I haven't had any problems in these areas. The pictures absolutely turn out great.
I also bought a couple of books on how to use the camera and has helped me a lot. Remember it's not a point and shoot camera so the quality of the pictures is highly dependent on how you use it!
The only disadvantage I see on using this camera is it makes you wonder what you can do with better lenses.... The kit lens is not bad but I've bought a better one and now I want a better wide angle, macro, etc., etc....
- 5.0 out of 5
Recently upgraded to this camera from my Olympus point and shoot cam.
I'm in love. Defiantely one of the clearest pictures i've ever seen.
Some people need to realise that its an SLR camera and that settings and glass are the most important things with these cameras. if you want to take easy photo's get a point and shoot cam.
Shutter speeds, aperture and ISO need to be understood in order to write a proper review on this, and any other, DSLR camera.
Canon! :):):)
- 4.0 out of 5
finally had some clear skies,tried it on my favorite nebulea,and voila, more then I expected.
Awesome,hope I can figure out all the setting,before the next clear skies.
- 5.0 out of 5
Even with kit lens 18-55mm i still can captured crispy and sharp image. It depends on how we uses it. Mostly i used M mode and shoot in RAW format. The result always have impact to my friends. I can wait to get a good L lens so i can get more superb pic. For those who can't make decision.. choose 400D.
- 5.0 out of 5
Perfect focusing very detailed and sharp picture.Many feature.Compare with the others very light.Excellent software free.What can I say more..
- 5.0 out of 5
The conclusion first— the Canon 400D/Rebel XTi/Digital Kiss is an excellent camera, well-positioned in price, features, looks and performance.
Okay, this will be a long review, so bear with me ;) I read many reviews and waited to actually use the camera before writing my own review and sharing my thoughts with you. Plus, please note that my comments are not written for the professional photography community, which may be interested in this camera as a backup body only, if at all :) And, due to space limitations, I had to leave out many details, sorry. If there are technical errors in my review, I invite my more knowledgeable photographer colleagues to post their suggestions. Frankly, my comments are aimed at the beginner or amateur photographer.
First, a bit about myself. I am a serious amateur and I define that as a person who loves her hobby, spends a moderate amount of money to build a system, does much research (online, community, friends, etc.), spends adequate time with her equipment, and is self-critical and analytical about her efforts. A sense of humor is a plus. Not exactly the dictionary definition, but hope that helps put my review in perspective. As far as camera experience, I handled and took photographs with many point and shoots, a few medium format cameras, SLRs, and even disposables (underwater mostly).
I saw my first family member-taken photo in 1969 (a b/w taken with my father's Leica and a 50mm lens). The photograph was of my father's closest friend. The individual grey and white hairs on his moustache were visible and finely focused. Impressive (hint: it was the excellent lens). I used various Leicas after that, but couldn't afford the lenses. I gave the Leica to my brother who bought me the Olympus OM-2. Loved that little camera and used it to learn photography. I spent some time in the lab smelling and handling chemicals. Some obstinate South Asian fungus finally claimed that camera (it was my inexperience in caring for electronic equipment in humid conditions). Then, I bought a Canon A2E/A5 and loved the eye focus feature. I couldn't find anything wrong with the camera, just my own inexperience contributed to imperfect images. Recently, I gave this camera to another brother who loves film cameras and is a photography enthusiast.
My first DSLR was the Canon 400D. I waited 8 months for this camera and during that time, I read as much as I could on digital photography. I bought the 400D with the kit lens (the 18-55 mm which I will comment on later). I took the camera on 4 trips —a tropical island getaway, two city tours, and a village tour. I took about 4000 photos so far. Only about 50 images didn't come out as expected. The bad images were due to hand shake, inappropriate use of Picture Styles and human subject movement. And there were some poor exposures due to light entering through the viewfinder when I raised the camera above my head to take photos. The camera manual tells you to cover the viewfinder with the rubber cover attached to the camera strap during those situations when your eye is not next to the viewfinder. There is more than one way to manipulate some stuff with the 400D so if something doesn't quite fit right for you, use an alternate method (multiple choices are covered in the manual and online tips). As with all new DSLRs, you can stick with the auto/green/novice mode and take mostly excellent photos, but why limit yourself? Try out the various factory presets and then experiment with the adjustable features.
My hands are small and the camera is a perfect fit. All the controls are in the right places for me. There are many features in this camera that you will love and use, if you read the manual and online tips and have the confidence to begin experimenting with them. The Canon 400D is extremely user-friendly and, being a digital camera, is eco-friendly.
What the camera is and is not. The Canon 400D is not a professional camera. But it is one of the best in its class. So what class is that? Itâs interchangeable lens capability, more than a point and shoot, a low weight model, near-pro features, choice of accessories and upgradeability. Oh, a special feature about this camera is its near instant ready-to-shoot capability from power off to power on. And the pro-level dust reduction feature is a confidence builder, but that should not prevent you from exercising the usual level of care in adverse shooting conditions.
What about the kit lens? 18m-55mm is a very good spread for most of the photos you will take. Although this lens is not a high quality model and almost every website I visited recommends against getting the kit lens, I say this lens keeps the initial cost down and is good for everyday use. I will not go into technical details because you can get all of that stuff at your favorite online photography sites (I like many sites but my personal choice of "technical" site is www.dpreview.com).
A few words about lenses. Seriously folks, once you are done practicing, get quality lenses. You will see an amazing difference in the photos you take. You may get used lenses if you trust your local dealer or the friend who is selling them to you. If you settle on a brand (Canon, Nikon, Olympus, etc.), you can gradually invest in good lenses for your base camera body and not lose your investment to obsolescence. I recommend three lenses—a wide-angle zoom (18 to 70mm-ish), a telephoto zoom (70 to 200/250/300mm) and a fast f1.8 or f1.4 50mm (remember the 1.6 conversion factor) for low light situations. Don't forget to check out third party lens manufacturers (Tamron, Sigma, Tokina, etc., but first read the professional reviews) who make good to excellent lenses with mounts specific to your camera. Since the Canon 400D does not have in-body image shake reduction/stabilization, consider getting the Canon IS series lenses. You won't need them for wider angle lenses, but the image stabilization models immensely help in telephoto/zoom situations. The better (more expensive) lenses have superior weather proofing (against dust, moisture and stuff like that).
Some suggestions on shooting. Consider taking photographs of everything you see, during all times of the day and night. Once again, remember, this is digital so cost is nil after you are all set up. Look at subjects in a new way, compose with the camera differently than how you are normally seeing the subject with your eyes, move in or back up to see things differently, take more extreme close-ups, and try different light conditions for the same subject, etc. That rose in the morning will look different in the afternoon. Take photos of children and pets at their height. One strategy that really works for me is to look at online or calendar photos that I really like and then try to figure out why I like that photo. Is it the composition, the subject matter, the lighting, something unique about the perspective or what is it about the photo that makes me think it is fantastic? Then try to replicate what you learned in your own photos. Above all, learn good camera holding posture and keep your hands steady. You will love the results.
Comments about image editing software programs. Yes, they are amazing but honestly, please first try to take a good photograph because the quality of your source/original photo does matter. You cannot fix a poorly focused photo in a program (unless you deliberately wanted a creative shot). You can crop a poor composition and end up with a better photo and you can adjust stuff to your heart's content if you shoot RAW images with the Canon 400D, but all these won't make you a better photographer, just a better digital artist.
A few words on accessories. Get some 1, 2 or 4 gigabyte capacity memory cards, extra batteries, a filter to protect your primary lens, a comfortable strap, a comfortable bag, and a good quality local print shop (optionally, a computer to edit photos and a good quality direct-print color printer). A tripod is a must. Most models in the US$ 50-100 range are excellent. Get a cable release for shake-free shooting. Get a good cleaning kit and keep your camera clean and in good working condition.
Bottom line on photography. I have yet to find any photographer who can conclusively tell me which camera was used to take a photo just by looking at the print or the digital image. My point here is that the person pressing the shutter button is responsible for timing, subject, preparedness, equipment, composition, exposure, etc. And the beauty of photography is like the perception of beauty of everything else. The beauty or quality of the end result may depend on the eye of the beholder.
Some recommendations on improving your photo-taking with the Canon 400D. Definitely read the manual more than once (I carry it in my bag), try out every single feature in your camera (you may learn many amazing things or be refreshed about stuff you forgot), remember this is a digital camera so you can experiment endlessly (with adequate battery power and memory card capacity, of course) without having to print photos, keep your hands steady, move around and up and down to get a different angle and look at your subject, and just keeping on taking photos. You spent your hard-earned cash on this camera and accessories, so you need to have fun. We are not war-zone, documentary, fashion, portrait or commercial photographers. We are in it as a hobby, at least at first. So, go ahead, get the 400D or if you already have it, start taking photographs. I believe you will be happy with your Canon 400D. I absolutely love mine.
- 4.0 out of 5
Having used Pentax and Nikon film cameras when I started and then going to Canon film before digital; I can tell you digital has built up my enthusiasm for photography like you cannot believe. Each canon camera I get seems to just get better and better by leaps and bounds. I owned the film rebel, then the Ilan II, then the last camera I had was the original Digital Rebel (bought it the day it came out) and now the Digital Rebel XTI. I am working my way up. :) I had a lot of success, that you can see in my website at http://web.mac.com/aknorsk - with that original Digital Rebel so now that I am upgrading from that to the Digital Rebel XTI I am REALLY stoked to try it out with all the upgrades on it that my last camera did not have. The only downside I am antisipating is the low aperture (mostly at night) with this camera that I also had with the original but I found ways to work around that so it's no big deal.
Canon - IS the only way to go!
- 5.0 out of 5
Just got it, had to shoot for the high school play, using the stage lights which were dark to harsh lighting conditions I managed to get some really good shots. This is not really a point and shoot camera. It is really necessary to read the manual and practice and/or chart your settings. The SLR because of the nature of an SLR has many advantages over a point and shoot fixed digital camera. However, a point and shoot has some point and shoot advantages over an SLR camera because of the nature of a point and shoot camera. Don't buy an SLR if you are unwilling to put the time into understanding what you have to go through to use it seriously. A point and shoot doesn't require that you understand white balance and low light conditions. Underexposed and overexposed shots are for the SLR group that wants to play with lighting conditions, depth of field and content where point and shoots lack this flexibility. Even if your a seasoned photographer you have to read the manual, technology is not stagnant and your pictures can be very rewarding if you understand how to use your equipment. How many of you have gone to www.photoworkshop.com/canon tutorial? How many of you have loaded Digital Photo Professional 2.2 that comes with the camera and figured out how to use it so that you can adjust those low light conditioned shots via your PC? This is a wonderful and extremely powerful, flexible camera with performance features that rival higher priced Canon and other SLR branded cameras. How do some of you like the idea that you can turn it on and start shooting, "NOW"! How many of you like the idea that there is no delay when you press the shutter. How many of you like that crystal clear view through the viewfinder where you can see your subject and easily frame your shot @ 3 shots/sec? How many of you know that hundreds of filters, bellows, lenses, extenders, 2x, 3x converters, raincoats, underwater housings, hand straps, battery grips, fitted holster cases, macro lights, macro close up lenses, remote shutter releases, eyecups, backpacks, adapters, and on and on and on for the serious amateur to the professional are available to make photography a sensational hobby. Damn this SLR's is beautifull! Hot diggidy dog wait till I get an "L" series lens!
- 5.0 out of 5
I've waited a long time for this camera. I own a Pentax ME Super (Film) Camera and a Toshiba PDR-5300 (Digital P&S). I upgraded to the Canon EOS XTi 400 and have been very pleased with the value, performance and features. The only thing it is missing is Image Stabilization and I have steady hands and also have a tripod, so no great loss. Ive taken about 200 photos and not a bad one in the bunch. Well....I made a couple of mistakes with the flash on the first day but I'm not counting them. It won't make you a professional...it'll just make you feel like one.
- 1.0 out of 5
Having owned this camera since launch it is possibly the worst camera I have ever had pleasure to use. The exposure is awful and photographs are very dark. I am an experienced photographer and will now be reverting back to Nikon. Canon - never again.
- 5.0 out of 5
I looked for a very long time at digital cameras before making this purchase. I will have to say that I am extremely pleased with this camera and all of its aspects. I have utilized many of the features and was never disappointed. For the price this is the best digital camera available.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera has performed better than every other camera I have ever had. I have had no issues what so ever. I believe that the camera, lenses, card, etc. is worth every penny. If you don't plan on taking photography seriously, stick to point and shoot cameras. Don't knock a great camera just because you don't know how to operate it.
- 3.0 out of 5
well I get a nice 3 pixel wide blue thing on every shot on the XTI(Kit Lens) that and they left out the dang software... I got a disc of .pdf manuals but no actual drivers or software Grrrrr... and While the performance with 1600 ISO in manual is ok the point and shoot modes are anything buy... interface for manual mode is the best I've ever seen though, I think I'm returning it, I wanted a camera that I would not be likely ot be tempted to upgrade any time soon, and well this is not it... close but not there so back to my minolta F300 with a half broken down lens :P at least it doesn't have the purple fringing that the kit lens has... if your going to keep/get the XTI and care about high quality images you've just have to get a different lens.
Still a good camera overall if you didn't get one with a flawed ccd err cmos... uhhh whatever kind on sensor this thing has.
- 5.0 out of 5
As an amateur who just upgraded to his first DSLR I'm extremely impressed with the Rebel XTi 400D.
The way it picks up detail and color in some of the most unlikely situations is nothing short of amazing. By comparison, the resolution is easily more than twice that of my previous Olympus 5MP.
Even being an amateur just experimenting with the settings, I've discovered much of what this camera is capable of. And some of the photos are just astounding. Even with the original lens.
However I took other's advice and upgraded the lens to an EFS 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM and am really pleased with it. It's well worth the investment.
- 4.0 out of 5
This is an excellent camera. But, please remember: The lens makes the camera and this is not a point-and-shoot. To get the best pics, you are going to have to spend good money on additional lenses. Check out the "L" series, which is Canon's pro line. Also, you are going to have much better luck with cameras like this if you spend the time to learn the ins-and-outs of SLR use. Don't let manual scare you—experiment! If you are looking to take a bunch of indoor family-type pics, then this camera is probably not for you. But if you are interesting in stepping up to a DSLR, it is worth checking out (also see the very-similar Nikon).
- 5.0 out of 5
I am yet to explore it. Hope it will work out well fo r me
- 3.0 out of 5
I love all my Canon Cameras and When I got this for Christmas I was very excited. As I started to take indoor pictures (Auto) they were dark. My Olympus is a 4 pixel and takes better pictures. For the money there should be no reason for this. There should be no need to start changing apertures and film speed to get a correct indoor picture.I will be returning it until they make a better flash or a better Lens.
- 2.0 out of 5
after taking 20 pictures using the flash the camera is constantly "busy" and only takes about 1 shot every 10 seconds. Since I usually take anywhere from 20-100 shots at a time this made the camera miserably frustrating and useless to me. I missed my baby smiling and laughing over and over waiting for it to be ready to shoot again. I returned it and am now back to my XT.
- 5.0 out of 5
I've owned at least 5 digital cameras and this is the most efficient one of the lot. I have the 18-200mm lens and it's stellar!
- 2.0 out of 5
Maybe there is something wrong with my canon rebel XTi. I feel I have wasted my money. The camera with lens and card cost me about $900. The good lens with image stabilizer cost me about $600. The taxes and or shipping was extra. Iâve owned 4 different point and shot cameras that do a much better over all picture for indoor snap shots. The rebel XTi has better clarity but pictures are overly dark in the background when using auto flash for indoor snap shots. Iâm sure with all of the extra expensive lighting and tripod the camera will be excellent, but who really wants to get out all of this equipment just to snap some quick pictures?
- 5.0 out of 5
I consider myself to be an amateur freelance photographer and as far as I am concerned this is the right camera for me. I have tried the Nikon D80 as well and I must say it just isn't as much fun nor does it have the amazing color response of the xti. Furthermore, the xti just grows with you and it has all sorts of handy shooting modes which give guaranteed great pics. One thing I think is important to say is that the camera is not really as small or uncomfortable to hold as some review magazines have made it out to be. And the creative capabilities with this camera are endless!! GET ONE AND HAVE FUN!
- 5.0 out of 5
I am not that much of a serious photographer, but you can conserve the beauty of an object when you use this. It has excellent features, much better than those of the 350D which I have used before the 400D. A good resolution, auto dust remover and lots more.
I am very very happy with this Camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera takes phenomenal pictures. I can hand this to a child and they can get great shots. I'm using Canon lenses and couldn't be happier.
- 5.0 out of 5
(Just upgraded from 300D to 400D...main lens on the 400D for me is a Canon EF 28-105 USM)Remember, it is the glass that greatly determines the quality of the photo. Inferior glass will ALWAYS produce inferior shots. The XTi is a fantastic DSLR in it's price bracket. When compared to all others in the same category, it holds it's own and then some. I have printed 13x19 inch prints from my XTi and i have gotten great results. Read the manual, know your photography, and buy good glass. You WILL get good photos with this camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
The Rebel XTI takes superb shots when you use good lens. Please read reviews of lenses before you buy them. Several reviews state that the Tamron isn't very sharp. I use 2 L lens on the XTI and get amazing results when I have all the settings correct. Half the time bad shots are due to bad technique. Please don't trash the XTI because you put an inferior lens on it. You can put a crappy lens on a an 8 thousand dollar camera and you will still get crappy shots. Your lens choice is just as important as your camera choice.
- 3.0 out of 5
I'm at a lost to explain why this camera doesn't produce excellent crisp shots as does my 5meg fixed lens Sony? Could be the 18 to 200mm Tamron Af lens? I bought this camera at a camera store only, and they recommended this set-up for Weddings. My advice, don't buy it unless you want less than average results. Now could be the lens I have stinks, but again can't compare to the more expensive Canon lens starting at over $1000 just for the lens? Body is cheaper than lens, go figure. I hoping the store I bought this camera from will let me try a canon lens to see if cost is justifiable or if the XTi just doesn't produced what I'm looking for. Right now I'm pretty upset with quality of pictures. I shot over 5000 images in studio, on location, and one Wedding(ouch!) and I'm unhappy.
- 5.0 out of 5
simply the best upgrade i can get from my previous 300d! its the best in all aspects!

Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D (Body Only) Comments & Questions (write your own!)
The camera also accepts any Canon EF lens, and there is a huge selection, which you can check out here ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ). I would suggest a good telephoto zoom, and image stabilization if you can afford it.
1. How are you going to use the camera? Nature, portraits, indoors, architecture, etc.
2. How much can you afford to spend? define your limit.
3. My humble opinion is that for general purpose, and versatile photography, do not compromise and get this one lense: Canon Zoom Super Wide Angle EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Autofocus Lens. Expensive but rewarding: about 1070 $ US.
Remember, that to justify such an investment, you must decide that you are going to use this type of camera for at leat 4-5 years, because the lense does not fit full frame camera (35 mm - film or digital).
Considering the 400D is selling (body only) for about $800, you should be able to get a decent trade.
Good luck-
Any Canon EF lens will work with the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I'd recommend doing a search for "Canon EF Lens" on eBay or Amazon.com.
Andrew
What kind of camera you need will depend on a lot of factors, like whether you plan to print the pictures, how much you know about camera controls, and how much you're willing to spend. I would take a look at our <a href="digitaladvisor.com/guides/f... Buyers Guide</a> to get started. Or, if you want to give us some more detail on what features you want, we can try to point you in a more specific direction.
Still need help? If so a few more details will make it easier to find you the right camera. Let me know what price range you're in and what kind of features you want or pictures you'd like to take. Thanks!
I suppose we'd go from $300 to maybe $600. We'd be wanting to take still shots immediately. After taking the senior pictures it would be given to our daughter who is entering college for general use. She has taken some photography classes in HS and may explore photography some more in college.
Jeff
Thanks for the details. Since your daughter knows some about photography and wants to learn more I'd definitely lean towards something with optional Manual controls (so she can play with the settings and learn how they work, but still put the camera on auto when she wants to). Your price range is pretty widespread, so I'll give you a few ideas from each area and you can check out the details on them:
Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- I love the Powershots because they take great photos in low light as well as in bright sun... very rich, pure colors. This one has auto and manual exposure options and a nice 4x zoom. All-around stable and dependable.
Kodak Easyshare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- another nice all-around camera; super user-friendly. Nice big zoom.
Most of those are in the same 300-ish price range. If you're looking to spend more than that, you can possibly look into a digital SLR. Those are the more advanced cameras that take multiple lenses and have more complicated instructions and functions. While they are great for photo students, it is also easier to take a bad picture with a DSLR than it is with a point and shoot. You really do need to learn how to use them, and that's a committment I'm not sure if your daughter is looking for or not... and it may also mean buying separate lenses since the ones that come with DSLRs aren't always the greatest. If that's a route you're interested in, the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is my favorite.
Hope that helps somewhat. Let me know if you need further help!
Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- a cool new Nikon oriented toward people learning photography, Canon Rebel 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- the cheaper cousin of the 30D Brenda recommended (a totally great camera by all accounts), the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- both have image stabilization built in so you can buy much less expensive lenses. But all of these are real SLR cameras: fast, high quality and good for real photography.
I will recomend you cameras from $400, and up to $700... despite you said $600. Why? Because SRL prices start at $500... so you don't have too many of them by that price. The average, is around $800 and $1500.
Recomended Point & Shoot:
* Canon Powershot G7
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ5
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1
* Ricoh Caplio R5
* Samsung NV7 OPS
* Samsung S850
This ones, are point & shoot cameras... but they are kind of small. You also have those with ultra versatile lenses, but much bigger. Some of the bests are:
* Samsung Pro815 (with 15x lenses, and a decent sensor)
* Panasonic FZ30 (you also have the FZ50, but you should know that there's almost any difference between 8 and 10 mp, than the $100 extra bucks) I would recomend THIS ONE!
* Kodak P880
* FujiFilm FinePix IS-1
SRL's I recomend for the price:
* Pentax K100 (or K110... the difference is the image stabilization)
* Nikon D40
* Canon Rebel XT EOS 350 D
To decide between these three, you should first know some things about them:
1º Pentax K100 was the surprise in the last photography event of 2006. It has even better picture quality than the Nikon D50, and it has shift sensor image stabilization.
2º The Nikon D40 is the last release of Nikon, and it's made to compete with the Pentax. The image quality is slightly better (let's say that the throne was for the Nikon D50, until the Pentax K100 was lounched to the market, and they just released the Nikon D40 that has some better end details, but there are almost no differences). BUT! this camera doesn't have a built in autofocus... so you have to buy every lens with it's own autofocus system, which makes them more expensive. Much more... if you want image stabilization... you will have to buy much more expensive lenses, when the K100 comes with it.
3º There's no difference between 6 and 8 mp. But much more... this is the most expensive of the three, and Canon is well known for bad quality kit lenses... so you will have to buy extra lenses. This one doesn't come with image stabilization neither.
My opinion: buy the K100 camera body, and then look for lenses around 120 and 200 bucks. Sigma is a very good brand for the price you pay them. Look for versatility, something like 18-90 mm, or 28-120... or even more. I've done that.
Hope this helps you to find the best camera for you and your daughter, and I expect you to post in the future what you bought, and how pleased you are.
Alan.
Fortunately, your lenses are transferrable to the Canon EOS cameras. This includes the Canon Digital Rebel XTi / Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Happy shopping!
Andrew
The adapters that convert the FD to EOS mounts will run you about $40.
Andrew
Andrew
For Canon devotees, the EOS 40D is a great camera and remains an excellent choice compared to most of the dSLRs in and around its price class--with one exception. Despite its many attractions, the Canon EOS 40D doesn't clearly outshine the Nikon D80, which costs a lot less. Though the 40D has the obvious advantage for action shooting--almost double the burst rate and a higher top shutter speed--the D80 generally feels a bit faster and more responsive for single-shot photography. I think the 40D ultimately does deliver better photo quality, but some people might find the differences more subtle than the price differential warrants. And, of course, the more expensive Nikon D300 remains a wild card until we've tested it. So for the moment, the 40D gets a hearty, if not wholly unqualified, endorsement.
8.7
CONCLUSION
8.8
You will buy and use a d-SLR to get the best possible combination of control, flexibility, speed and image quality. The Canon EOS Rebel XTi and the Nikon D80 both live up to that expectation. Even the most demanding amateur photographer will not be disappointed by those cameras. Both cameras can be operated automatically, but offer full manual control for high levels of accuracy in exposure, focusing and color. The Nikon D80 has more features, but the Canon EOS Rebel XTi is easier to operate. Due to the exchangeability of lenses all subjects can be captured with great ease from super wide angle to super tele and for special subjects like macro to tilt&shift. Canon offers a broader line-up of lenses , often with image stabilization. The speed of the cameras is almost equal. No noticeable start up or shutter delay, fast and accurate AF and a 'motor drive' of 3 frames per second up to 40 or more JPEGs (about 10 RAWs). Image quality of these 10 Mp cameras is very high. Resolution is fabulous and noise levels are moderate even at ISO 1600. In RAW format mode with a fixed focus lens you will get the highest image quality, in which case the EOS Rebel XTi performs a bit better than the D80. Image quality seems no longer restricted by the sensor, but by the JPEG-settings and the applied zoom lens. Every zoom lens below $750 dollar reduces the 100% quality of the images. Because of the fact that high levels of sharpening in combination with noise reduction and JPEG compression tend to significantly reduce the image quality, the default in-camera sharpening of both camera is very modest and may lead to ' soft' images is some cases. JPEGs are suitable for high quality prints up to 16x12" and for prints up to 40 to 26 inch RAW is the best image format.
If you want the highest image quality, user friendly operation and sensor cleaning the Canon EOS Rebel XTi is your camera. In addition the price is $200 lower than of the D80. The EOS Rebel XTi comes standard with good RAW-software, which is optional for the D80 at extra cost. In case you want a camera with a robust body, extra features and better flash performance, the Nikon D80 is a very good choice. But, as said before, none of these two cameras will disappoint their user.
If you have a D50, D70 of D70s an upgrade to the D80 may be an option: more pixels, higher responsiveness and better image quality at higher ISO values can give the photographer more satisfaction. For the same reasons an upgrade from the EOS 300D to the Rebel XTi may be worth the investment. Even from the EOS 350D the step to the Rebel XTi will be interesting. The answer to the question which camera of those two is the best, is very simple: 'The camera with the best lens', because in this comparison operation, speed and image algorithms are not the real restrictions in use and quality.
There is good and bad in every product.We just have to weight the pros and cons.
photo.net/equipment/nikon/D80
D80 or D40/D40x?
Nikon has come up with various designs for doing autofocus. Throughout the 1990s, autofocus involved a slot in the back of each AF lens and a screwdriver blade coming out of the lens mount. In the 21st Century, Nikon decided to put small autofocus motors in most of their new lenses, with a purely electrical connection between camera body and lens. For backward compatibility, bodies such as the D80 have the screwdriver blade in addition to the electrical autofocus connectors. The D40/D40x bodies do not have the screwdriver blade and hence do not work with many Nikon AF lenses, even ones that are still in production but whose designs have not been revised. If you have or think that you might want some of the older design lenses, the D80 is a better camera.
In the "creative" exposure modes, the D80's second control wheel provides a big boost to operating speed. The D80's superior autofocus system makes it a better body for sports and action.
The D40 is a better body if ultimate compactness and light weight are important. You can throw the D40 into a bag when you think that you might want to take pictures, not just grab it from the shelf when you have a big photographic idea.
Canon’s EOS 400D / XTi improves on its predecessor in several key respects, and for some buyers, that’s all they’ll need to know. After all, the earlier EOS 350D / XT was by far the best-selling entry-level DSLR, so if the new one’s even only a little bit better, that’s recommendation enough.
Of course the market’s become more competitive in recent times and while the new 400D / XTi is indeed better than its predecessor, there’s some tough new rivals.
Sony’s A100 is the 400D / XTi’s biggest competitor and for little extra outlay, it boasts built-in anti-shake and a kit lens with a slightly longer focal length. Adding anti-shake to the 400D / XTi takes its price comfortably above the A100 kit, and that’ll be enough to steer many towards Sony.
In its favour, the Canon has a smaller, lighter body, lower noise levels at high ISOs and many more anti-dust features, although they were far from 100% infallible in our tests. It also has access to Canon’s wide range of lenses and accessories and there’s no denying the company’s brand cachet.
The bottom line is the 400D / XTi handles well and delivers great quality images at a low price. We would highly recommend upgrading the kit lens, but as a starter package which has plenty of room for growth, it represents excellent value.
cameralabs.com/features/10M...
Nikon D80
The Nikon D80 is arguably the best camera of the three. It beats the 400D / XTi and A100 in almost every respect, sporting superior design and build quality, the biggest, brightest viewfinder, more sophisticated AF, greater customisation and a secondary status screen which many will find easier to read in bright light. While some test results were very close, the D80 also resolved the greatest detail and many will prefer its handling of high ISO noise to the Canon.
In these traditional photographic respects, the D80 is comfortably ahead of the Canon 400D / XTi and Sony A100, but there’s one key difference: it’s also comfortably more expensive, especially when you add the cost of a lens. And if that lens happens to feature Vibration Reduction to combat camera shake, you could be spending double that of the Sony A100 kit. The D80 also doesn’t have the anti-dust features of the Canon 400D / XTi, which additionally comes in at a much lower kit price.
To be fair, the D80 is pitched at a slightly higher-end market than the Canon and Sony models. It’s designed for someone who wants a step-up from an entry-level DSLR, but can’t or won’t stretch to something like a D200. So if you’re the kind of person who would value the superior build and viewfinder of the D80 while also exploiting from its more sophisticated AF and flash control, then we’d say it’s worth the higher investment. If however you’re on a stricter budget, or don’t think you’d use the D80’s more sophisticated controls and features, you’ll be better off with the Canon or Sony.
I would say it's a "fair" lens. Fine for indoor shots and modest zoom, but really not that spectacular in its specs. You pay probably $75 extra for this lens, though (compared to the body only), which is about as little as one can pay for a lens. So if you have hit your budget in the camera, it's a reasonable lens to start. If you already have a lens, or can afford a better one, then I would consider spending the extra dough.
Andrew
But I would suggest that you get a Canon's Speedlite 430EX flash to create more even flash pictures, give you bounce and swivel capability and which will also work with autofocus to perfectly set each time.
I am not aware of a recall for the 350D, but since Canon has now released the Canon XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) they would naturally discontinue the 350D (prices right now seem pretty good as retailers sell remaining inventory :-).
Absolutely no worries about the accessories. The 350D is part of Canon's EOS line of cameras, and almost all accessories (flash, lenses, remotes) are interchangeable. The lenses I bought for my film EOS 7 years ago are still great with my digital 10D, and would be with the 350D and 400D as well. And even in the few cases where things are fit to the body of the camera (e.g. a battery/grip) Canon would probably not discontinue those.
Bottom line: the 350D is a great camera and now's a great time to snap it up if you can!
i want sharper pics. but can i do this with a few hundred dollars?
is canon the answer ? is SLR the answer?
lenses?
please help.
If, however, you have more hobby-istic needs, then perhaps you need to point your eue towards the digital SLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) market.
There, depending on your experience, comes a great array of options, including Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Add a great 28-200 telephoto lens and a Flash, and you can take great pictures of everything from wide angle landscapes, to portraits, to on the go action and sports shots. And the best thing about the SLR option is, it can grow with you. As you get better and better in your photography journey, this camera will open up more options to you.
We have a great breakdown of different cameras depending on budget on the left hand side of this webpage. And each category has solidly great options from both point and shoot and SLR options.
Two things. If going digital, IGNORE DIGITAL ZOOM rates. That's pure marketing. While Optical zoom works like a 35mm camera. Digital zoom merely magnifys or "blows up" the image. And the farther you get into the digital zoom spectrum, the more the image will degrade.
Secondly, if you choose to go SLR, spend some extra money and get 1A Skylight filters for all the lenses you invest in. It will be the cheapest, and most reliable insurance you'll ever buy as they will guard against impact damage.
I own a Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and love what I have read about the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I wish I waited to make my purchase to pick the later model up instead. I still love my XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) though.
Andrew
I would highly recommend the camera.
Dan Weisman
The Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a resolution of 6 megapixels while a handy-cam uses a 0.68 megapixel resolution. You will see hand over fist improvement in the quality of the photo if you are printing it at even a 4x6 print size.
Andrew
Rebels have plastic (polycarbonate) bodies, maybe not as robust innards, maybe a little less weather-resistant, and may lack a few minor features of their more expensive siblings. On the plus side, they are a little lighter. They are aimed at a serious photographer, but perhaps not a pro or someone who is really putting a lot of strain and use on their camera. But with a few minor exceptions, they all can use the same accessories, lenses, flashes, etc.
A lot of what is great about any of these Canon digital SLR cameras is that their digital insides are (incredibly) fast and capable, so Rebels use the same digital processors and tend to have the same or similar technical capability and specs, image quality, etc. as the more expensive EOS cameras. But watch the numbers, the following cameras have about the same electronics:
400D = 30D (both, the latest, and both <b>awesome</b> cameras :-)
350D = <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
300D = 10D
Hope this helps!
However, I suggest that you should learn to READ and be more tolerant of spelling/typo errors. Why did you feel compelled to criticize my spelling? By putting others down, does it make you feel better about who you are? Your attack on my spelling is very petty and indicates that you may have a serious character defect that is much more serious than my inability to spell and/or type. Perhaps you should seek counseling to learn the skills needed to get along with people.
My question was not limited to NEWER cameras. Although I did ask about "digital,"which would indicate a relatively recent model, I also asked about auto focus "film" cameras. I made no mention of the cameras' age of the latter. FD lenses were popular on Canon cameras from the 1970's on.
For your information: Canon did make an auto focus film camera Model T-80 from April 1985 to June 1986 that does use FD-mount lenses. However, the three auto focus lenses specifically made for that model have built-in motors and are not the typical FD lenses that I have. Although my lenses should work on that camera, they would not auto focus. Therefore that would not solve my problem.
But thank you for trying to answer my question.
FD Lenses are manual focus lenses and do not have the ability to be auto focused by any camera.
However you can use FD lenses as manual focus lenses with the specific adapter on a variety of cameras, to include the newer Canon EOS camera. But again, it will not be auto focus and if you already have a camera for these lenses then there is no need to buy a new one.
Tim
<a href="photonotes.org/articles/eos...
And this one, thou why spend over $120 when you have a camera already that can use the FD lense.
bhphotovideo.com/bnh/contro...
So I guess I will need to buy an auto-focus camera.
Thanks again.
Les
Between these two I would lean towards the Canon XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is closer comparison-wise to the Canon 300D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) than it is to the Rebel XTI. The Rebel XTI is on a slightly higher level and can be compared to the Nikon D70 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). So rather than choose between the Rebel and the D50 I'd narrow it to the Rebel and the D70 if both are in your price range.
As far as the difference between the Canon and the Nikon models, they can both do the same thing. They have more or less the same amount of settings and both can produce great photos if used correctly. It's mostly a matter of preference.
As to whether IS is important, the answer is ... kinda. IS in consumer cameras/lenses is a new phenomenon. But it caught on because it really works. I have been using non-image stabilized SLR lenses for 25 years, and was able to take clear shots. But now with my IS lens I can take clear shots without a tripod, or in lower light -- IS gives you more latitude. It's kind of one of those things that's just out and out good. And given that you are shooting fast-moving scenes, IS can be invaluable.
The Sony a100 is a new camera, sort of. It is a rework of the Minolta Maxxum 7D. Minolta is no longer in the camera business and sold their SLR line to Sony. It seems like a good camera and is getting good reviews. The internal IS feature is appealing, but I don't know if it really works. And no SLR has gotten reviews like the Canon digital SLR line.
I have a Canon 10D, several generations earlier than the XTi. I cannot say enough good things about it; my only complaints are LCD size, and startup time, both of which are fixed in new versions. I wouldn't be concerned about battery life of the XTi. I can take probably 100 or more shots on a battery, and extras are something like $12 a piece. I have three.
The Nikon is also very well reviewed, in particular the D200, but the D80 is good, too. If this feels better to you than the Canon, that's the right decision. If you're willing to take a risk on the a100, it's probably a good option.
I would get the XTi, but I am wildly biased :-)
I too want a nikon D80 or D200 but it is out of my price range. I was looking around and notice that the D70 is a good choice as well as the canon Xti or XT. The main difference I can see is that the Nikon has a more vibrant color profile (the green are much more vivid). However, unless you compare the same picture taken side by side on the two type of cameras, you probably can't tell the difference.
The reason avid photographers like nikon is because they have superior lenses and that will make a diffence in your photographys. There is a D40x out, it is 10mp and cheaper than the d200/d80.
I also think that most people buy nikon because they retain their value a lot longer and that's why I want to by a nikon. I have a sony DSC717 and although it's 5mp it works great. However, I did notice that sony camera are grainy if it does not have very good lighting and are so in shadowy area.
www.dpreview.com is a great resounce to research camera, they have a side-by-side comparision chart on all types of camera.
I also go on www.flickr.com and look at the pictures taken by the various camera and see what they're capabilities are.
The Rebel XTi is solid, but i'm not sure how it's value will hold up after time and I personall don't like how it feel. The Rebel XT is a favored choice as well (at 8mp). A lot of art students/creatives like that camera.
I bought a D70 on-line and I should get it soon. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
The Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a terrific camera for this type of photography. The lens you can buy with it in the kit will also work well for what you are trying to do (given you have enough light). If you do have a lower level of light, you might get a speedflash which is available through various online retailers. Make sure you experiment with the different settings on the camera to get the best shot and look through your manual for advice as well.
Andrew
Because most people want jpeg compression on their cameras they are subject to the cameras ability to process the image with some loss during compression. If you shoot in RAW mode, no camera color processing takes place and all you get is exactactly what the camera sees, you can easily take that and due some color correction using something like Paint shop pro or Adobe photoshop.
Pictures will look much better...
I noticed you haven't marked a response as "Best Answer"... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend resubmitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
I noticed you haven't gotten an answer yet... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend resubmitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
This is of course my opinion. I own many cameras and I use most of them for professional portraits, including my Rebel XT (8mp version).
Good Glass is as important as a good camera.
Therefore, a 50mm lens becomes an 80 (which is just at the bottom end of the portrait range). An 85 mm becomes a 136mm (at the end of the portrait range). Both lenses, the 50mm 1.4 and the 85mm 1.8 can be purchased in the mid 300 dollar range.
Now arguably many photographers I know shoot outdoor portraits with lenses like 70-200 and 300mm which give more background compression (and therefore produce a creamier background blur which makes the subject stand out better).. Some say that very compression also flattens the portrait, but either I have bad eyes, or it doesn't make that much difference to me..
If it's going to be an all purpose lens, perhaps a zoom telephoto lens might be an option. Canon has a 24-135 which is also image stabilized. It's a bit soft for image but that's exactly what you want in a portrait anyway. To shoot landscapes, it shoots sharper images in the F8-F11 range.
Sigma makes a 28-135 (but not image stabilized) and Tamron makes a 24-135mm (also not stabilized).. Both are great ranges for all purpose shooting.
My personal choice (if you don't need too much at the long end) would be the Tamron Di 28-75 which produces a pretty sharp image and is in the mid 300's range of price.
In short, DSLRs don't have the LCD preview feature.
Both of these are excellent cameras. Either will work for what you want to do. I would recommend going to a retailer and holding both cameras to see what feels better in your hands. You should also check the user interface if possible while there. They are a lot different, so you will want to see what you're more comfortable with.
Andrew
For a once in a lifetime opportunity, why wouldn't you want to go with a good solid SLR like the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Rebel Xti?</a>
10.1 MP (which is huge for those stunning landscapes or monument pictures or even that safari in Africa), Self-Cleaning Vibrational/ultrasonic dust reduction, and the best part - the ability to change lenses. Better range, better glass. Better images. For a once in a lifetime trip around the world, that's what I'd be looking at.
If, however, you're looking for mobility and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ease of use</a>, then the A710 can do the job.
How you light and compose your pictures will have a far greater impact on the quality of your black and white photography than your choice of lens. (Include a patch of bright sky in otherwise dark scene, and you have hosed your image contrast, for example.)
For general shooting outdoors/cityscapes, I would suggest the EF 17-40 f4.0. It is roughly equivalent to a 28 - 60mm on a full frame 35mm camera. It's one the more transportable and affordable of canon's high quality L-series lenses. Canon's infatuation with expensive, wide-aperture is all very fine until you have to carry one or two around all day.
Thanks
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer" yet... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question on digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
I ask this because in my view, the ability to take stills in a video camera just isn't as good as we want it to be. And I have found that more often than not, I use the video feature in my still camera much more often than the other way around.
However, the Elura 100 does store pictures on a memory card and you can take stills while you are videoing a scene. So that is a handy feature. And it does give you widescreen options. But I am skeptical that it can take stills with the same quality as a digital still camera. Your mileage may vary though.
Particularly, for Camcorders, I'd go with either the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... or, better yet, the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... 100</a>. I just love the ability to shoot widescreen.
As for digital cameras that shoot video? Well, my favs are <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A640</a> or the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... for point and shoots and the Digital Rebel Xti ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for SLRs.
As I said, there are other really good cameras. Still cameras you can go with just about any model recommended here and not be led astray.
Does a great job in the still department, and the video, which I believe is up to 30 minutes, isn't as good as a camcorder. but it is good enough for daily fun.
Are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
A 50mm is a standard lens. You won't get much out of it after a few days as you want more. Look for a good 28-200mm zoom to get the most for your money.
I am an amateur but have been pretty serious about learning the camera. My prior camera and still favorite is my Pentax K1000
The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... can use CF cards of any capacity, up to and including the new 4gb Microdrive.
My recommendation would be to purchase a couple SanDisk Ultra II cards of 1gb or 2gb size. It's always best to have a few smaller cards rather than one large one in case something goes wrong so you don't lose all your photos.
The battery that comes with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... G7</a> is the NB-2LH Lithium Ion Battery. This is compatible with various Canon cameras to include the Digital Rebel <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot S30/40/<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Cameras & <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... & <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... Camcorders. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I've used my Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) in low light situations with great success. I usually use a manual setting though (with a tripod) to leave the shutter open longer. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I haven't personally seen any of the books for sale on this camera, but the <a href="amazon.com/Magic-Lantern-Gu... Lantern guides</a> are supposed to be expanded, more detailed versions of the user guide and might be helpful if you find the briefness of the user guide frustrating.
You'll be able to use that 35-80 without skipping a beat.
Can you tell me what to do?
Thank you
Jayne Novotny
Additionally, there are ways to avoid corrupting your card. First off, don't delete from the camera itself or transfer from the camera to your PC. Get a memory card reader to do that. Delete from the memory card reader once you've transferred your pictures.
Secondly, you could try reformatting the card from time to time. Again, I would use the a specific utility like FRecover to do this.
Lastly, it is inevitable that cards will corrupt and fail from time to time. But as long as you can recover those cards and get your data, you can then reformat and reuse them. Sometimes, they'll just wear out. Othertimes, you may just have a card that goes bad. It happens.
But you can find utilities that can save those pictures, so all is not lost.
Thanks
So what is the best Canon Digital camera can I buy between 500$-600$ to get a very sharp and clear picture shows all particulars and details in that picture
but what if I want best than that,,,but still Canon Digital camera and between (600$-700$).
also what is about Canon XTi/400D can i chang the lens?
Top of the line ... well, you can't argue with the EOS 5D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), except for the price, OUCH.
However, Nikon is a premiere camera maker and if you get a classic 105mm Nikkor, you'll never want to lose it. So you can't go wrong with it, IMHO.
Not always.. If you read the fine print in a lot of recent 10 megapixel camera releases, you will notice a common statistic.. In most cases, the 10 meg images are not much better (if any) than the 8 meg images as far as resolution goes. They do produce a larger image but not always a better one.
The decision to make is "how big do you want to print out?". I have 5 meg images that I'm printing out to 16x20 with great quality. This is because I have a good camera with a great sensor, and as well, a great piece of glass on the end, and I use a tripod for the shots I know I'm going to print big.
I'm not saying to run out and get a 5 megapixel camera, but what I'm saying is that if price is your issue, cameras like the Nikon D70/D70s are falling in price, and as well the Canon Rebel XT (the 8 megapixel version of the XTi) is also falling.
Don't fall into the megapixel pit because in 2 years, 14 will be the new 10 and you will once again feel the need to upgrade. The quality of the image is determined by sensor, image processing firmware the camera (the image engine) and the glass that send the image to the sensor.
Any of the mentioned cameras (Nikon D50/70/70s and Canon XT/Xti) with a great lens on them will be great cameras that you can use for some time to come until you feel the overwhelming need to start printing out billboards.
If you are going to get good glass, you can expect the cost of that to equal or better the camera price.
For me personally, if I did not have a camera right now, it would be a toss up between the Reble XT and the D70s. (you can still find the D70 and D70s new in many photography stores).
You can get a fit with a converter ( cgi.ebay.com/NIKON-NIKKOR-A... ). You will need to manually adjust the lens aperture and focusing ring though.
Andrew
I think you may be getting your terminology crossed up here a bit.
Canon has had three primary mount systems for their SLR cameras. The oldest is the FL-mount, which was phased out in 1971 for the newer FD-mount. The FD-mount was the primary Canon system until 1987, when the EF-mount was introduced. EF stands for "electro-focus", which means that the autofocus on EF-mount lenses is handled by an electric motor built into the lens.
By AF lenses, do you mean FD-mount, non-electric-driven lenses? If so, there is currently no way to use them on Canon's dSLRs, except for FD-mount macro lenses, which can be used with an adapter. There is a thread about this issue elsewhere on Digital Camera HQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
If you mean AF lenses from another manufacturer, could you be more specific as to which brand and mount system you mean? It would be helpful in answering your question.
Good luck!
If there is, please let me know. I have a Minolta 5D and 2 Sony Alphas and a host of lenses I would like to use.
I do know there are many mount conversion adapters coming out lately. Perhaps this might solve the issue.
There are many reviews on the Di lens and that is what prompted me to buy one for my Canon camera. I'm not familiar with the 24-85mm lens so I apologize, but I cannot offer any information on that (or opinion).
The 17-85 shoots a bit soft until you get up into the F8-11 mark, whereas the Tamron gave me great results from about F4 and up (F2.8 is still good, but a we bit soft. It is excellent for portraits, but you should up your aperture for landscapes)
It feels well built and has performed for me flawlessly over the last few years.
I am worried I can pay a small fortune for a camera with all the gadgets and branding which I don't need.
I just want a camera which takes a high professional quality picture indoors and outside.
Can anyone give me the benefit of their experience please?
Many thanks
You could start out with an EOS Film SLR to save money. And then when you're ready to take the digital plunge, those lenses will work on a new Canon Digital. But make no mistake, shooting SLR quality pictures is an expensive hobby.
If I can work out how to get them to you I will send you the 20 points.
Thanks again
Richard Mabe
I'm partial to Canon's Digital Rebel XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Two very good cameras. Secondly would be Nikon's D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because Nikkor portrait lenses are the finest in the business.
Pricey, I know. But if this is your business, it will pay to invest in the equipment that gets just the shot you want.
Andrew
it sounds like 400d will do the low light and bright light of both!
i know i want a zoom...i am an old 35mm guy but don't want to drop huge $$$ for my first, so is the Tamron the one to buy or do i bite the bullet and go for the Tonika?
2more questions folks...i want the telescoping stable pole instead of tripod but who makes a good one for the money? lastly can i buy the body only and then a zoom or do they only come with a body/normal lens?
thanks
I'm glad to open up your question and discover that yes, you already know that in order to take good sports photos you need a DSLR. =)
I can't help with the telescoping pole, but yes you can buy the camera body-only and then buy your own lens, here's the link- 400d body only ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Regarding the lens, I would think you would be OK with the Tamron personally. Some people may disagree here, but in my (admittedly limited) usage of these two lenses the Tamron may be a little clunkier to operate but in terms of image quality it was negligible as far as I saw, and if you're unsure you might as well go cheaper for now (the Tamron is cheaper, isn't it?) until you discover what works for you.
1. Low light
2. Flash is not allowed, especially during competitions
3. You can not freely walk around the gym while taking pictures
So you will need a lens that has aperture 2.8 or better. Focal length should be between 50 to 135 mm that will give you equivalent of 75 to 200 mm according to the crop factor of most DSLRs. You probably can not find any modern automatic zoom lens that meet the high-speed aperture criteria. So the only option here would be a set of second-hand prime lenses.
While taking pictures outdoors you can use any automatic lens with focal length of 18 to 200 mm.
Thaks you in advance, MACARENA.
What kinds of digital cameras have you owned up till now? You say you're a beginner, but also that you have a passion for photography. I'd just like to know what kind of equipment you've used so far before I make a more specific recommendation.
Thanks!
Looking foward to your aswer, MACARENA.
There are plenty of ways to step up from the consumer point-and-shoots like the one you've been using. You could go ahead and take the jump up to the dSLRs, or you could take a smaller step up to a "prosumer" camera, one that blends the easy usability of consumer models with the advanced, optional features of SLRs.
(It should be noted that sometimes "prosumer" is used to indicate low-end, reasonably priced dSLRs as well as high-end consumer cameras. In this response I'm going to use it only to indicate high-end non-SLRs.)
In the prosumer category there are literally hundreds of quality viable options. I recommend narrowing your search by determining which features are most important to you. Do you care about huge resolution, or is a more pedestrian 5 or 6MP ok? Do you need a super zoom of 10-12x, or are you ok with a more traditional 3-5x? Do you want something tiny, or is a little bulk ok? On the very low end of the prosumer scale/high end of the consumer scale you've got cameras that generally look like consumer cameras, but sport some extra bells and whistles. Canon's A-series, for example, blends a snug pocket fit with some unusually advanced manual controls. In the genuine prosumer range you have cameras that LOOK more like SLRs and sometimes behave in much the same way. However, they lack several important features as compared to SLRs, mainly customizability of manual controls, the ability to change lenses (though some have adapters for a limited selection of add-on lenses), and pro-quality photographic sensors. Top performers in this range include Sony's F717/828 and H2/H5, Canon's G-series, and S2/S3 IS, Fuji's S-line, Kodak's P-line, Casio's EX-P series, Panasonic's FZ-line, and so on. All of these cameras offer high MP, high zoom, a solid feel in your hand, and great performance to some degree.
The low-end SLR market is similarly crowded, with offerings from Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus, and even Minolta (recently acquired by Sony). Again, all of these cameras offer great features and performance, and to compare all of them at once would be a task beyond anyone's powers. I can only recommend that you go to your local electronics superstore and try their demos out in your own hands. Holding these cameras and shooting them, not to mention paging through their menus and checking out their controls, is the surest way of finding a match for your own wants and needs. This, of course, goes for the prosumer cameras as well.
As to your original question regarding the 400D, no. I don't think it would be too much for you (in terms of you being able to handle it), since it features a very easy-to-use automatic mode. However, it might be more than you need. dSLRs often become a serious investment of not only time but money, as it takes a long time to learn everything there is to know about a SLR, and a lot of money to equip it with all the necessary/wanted lenses and accessories. Lenses especially are not cheap. For this reason alone, you might want to consider one of the high-end prosumer cameras listed above. They usually offer a very versatile lens that covers a wide spectrum of shooting possibilities.
If you narrow your search down to a few cameras, please feel free to post another question and I'll try to help you out in making a final decision. Good luck!
Thak you again, MACARENA.
I've heard generally good things about the P850, but you might want to consider its newer cousin the P880 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which includes a wide angle lens (24mm) and has gotten better reviews across the board. There's also the newer P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )to consider.
When it comes down to it, I prefer the Canon and that's why it's the one I own, but the bottom line is that all three brands make solid machines and you should try each of them out on their own merits. I hope you find what you're looking for. :)
If you have a lens for your Canon (film) Rebel, then go for the Canonn Rebel XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). We have seen nothing to indicate they are fragile or need repair more often than any other camera. I own the Canon 10D, which is the first of this series made in 2003, and it is still working as well as the day I bought it. Canon makes excellent cameras, and I cannot recommend their products enough!
Tom
I really appreciate your taking the time to answer me. It would definitly make it worthwhile to stay with the Canon with me owning compatable lenses.
Could I ask what your experience has been with the built in flash and red eye? I have always used my 35mm Rebel with a flash attachment and never get red eye. I own the Canon 380EX flash. Would the same apply to the digital version?
thanks again,
Bob
P.S. where would you purchase the digital?? Any thoughts on that?
The Rebel Digital is just like your Rebel film in most ways. Your 380EX flash will work; the built-in (pop-up) flash is good for fill light, but I wouldn't use it for anything except snapshots if I needed more light. It's not terrible like the tiny little point-and-shoot cameras.
As for where to buy: I would definitely buy online, or call one of the online merchants if you need help. The better ones, like 17th Street Photo typically have the best prices, sales people (on the phone) who actually know what they are talking about, often will be able to sell tax free, and will have the product in stock. Check the store ratings and prices ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and if you choose a reputable dealer, you won't be disappointed.
Thanks again for your quick reply. I will definitly check out your suggestions this weekend.
Enjoy your holiday,
Bob
Sorry to be a pest. I was re-reading your last response regarding the built in pop-up flash on my canon. This may sound stupid, but what setting do I use on the camera that allows the pop off to go off for fill in?
Bob
When it comes to flash, there is no such thing as a stupid question. I have been attempting the use of flash since I got my first camera in the mid 1970s and no matter how many books I read, or how many things I tried, I never figured it out. When I got my first EOS, the quality got better, but that was only because I was letting the camera do the work :-). When I moved from film to digital, I was finally able to really learn and understand how flash fits in the whole exposure equation: with digital, I was able to take picture after picture, trying different settings then looking at the result right away. Only then did I really "get" flash exposure.
So anyhoo...
In any of the automatic programmed modes, the camera will pop up the flash as needed and set flash exposure for fill-flash (or full if that's what seems to be needed). It does a pretty good job at figuring out what the lighting situation is and picking the right settings, generally. If you are taking closer people pictures, set to the portrait auto mode (picture of a person's head) which gives the camera more clue about how to set the exposure correctly.
In the manual modes, you pull up the flash if you want to use it, and can set the flash exposure similarly to how you set the light exposure (adjusting aperture, shutter speed and ISO). I typically prefer as little flash as possible, so set the exposure from -1 ev to -2 ev (ev = exposure value, and is equivalent in meaning to "one stop"), so these settings are, as far as the camera is concerned an under-exposure. The light exposure will adjust accordingly.
Actually, I prefer not to use the popup flash because I have an external flash (I have the 480EX, which is similar to your 380EX); external flash is more powerful and the 480EX can tilt and rotate, making bounce flash (off a ceiling, or wall) possible. In most cases, bounce provides a much nicer, more diffuse lighting. But popup or external,, you use the same method for setting exposure.
You are very kind to spend so much time to answer my question. Again my thanks.
Have a wonderful holiday season and a Healthy New Year.
I will let you know when I finally make a purchase!
The S3 IS is a very good choice if you prefer the simplicity and convenience and smaller size of a single-lens camera.
If you want the same functionality, and the ability to use your current lenses, you should look at the Canon dSLR cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If you don't want to go in spending a ton of money either, but still want a good amount of functionality, you might try the Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It offers over 10 MP for great quality shots, as well as the use of Canon's EF lenses.
Andrew
Do you have a lot of lenses for your film Rebel? If so, you'll probably want to stick with Canon when you jump for a dSLR, since lenses compatible with the EOS Rebel 2000 are also compatible with all Canon dSLRs.
The next most important question is: how much do you want to spend? Canon offers dSLRs in all price ranges, from just over $500 to well over $5000.
Let me know the answers to these questions and I'll try to help you further. Thanks.
chris
If your wife is a serious photographer, the camera should be about 1/2 to 1/3 of the initial budget; the first lens or two should be another 1/3 to 1/2 the budget, and assuming there's any left over, memory cards, spare batteries, flash, tripod, camera bag, airplane tickets to exotic locations and so on should cover the rest. Ok, maybe the airfare is separate :-)
If your wife is really interested in photography, an SLR digital is the first stop. There are some cameras that are reasonably good alternatives to SLRs such as the Sony CyberShot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and others. Most of the Advanced Digital Cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will take a perfectly reasonable photograph, if the conditions are right; an SLR such as the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will make it possible to take a really great photo, even in less than ideal conditions. However, SLRs are certainly more of a pain to use, if only because they tend to be larger, and more expensive.
So if your wife is very interested in photography, or already has a film SLR, or is doing this as a hobby, an SLR and a good lens that fits the camera is the way to go. If she is more interested in getting a great shot, actually almost any reasonably good camera these days will do. Except at the lowest price range you'll get good print quality and if you avoid the very small cameras you'll tend to get good optics. SLRs will be quicker and more versatile, but the Advanced or the larger Extended Zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) cameras will have nice features to help make for a good shot.
Look for the Editors' Choice, or if a camera has been around a few month, look for high user ratings. Few cameras are out-and-out bad these days; mostly people are giving bad ratings to cameras that fail to meet their expectations.
So with that said, consider the cameras I have mentioned, and one other, the Panasonic FZ-50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- all good and well rated cameras.
If you have more details about what your wife might want, post a reply and we'll see if we can help narrow things down better.
thanks for the help
chris
Having said that, if she only wants to get one lens to start with that's a reasonable catchall for landscapes and portraits then something in the range of 18 - 75mm (approx) would suffice.
I have a couple of questions for you before I can start making recommendations.
1. What are you looking to spend? Perhaps moreso than with film cameras, the money you spend really determines the quality of photos you can take with digitals. Lower-end SLRs will run you between $600 and $1000. Prosumer cameras with fixed lenses but lots of bells and whistles will range between $250 and $600. And then there are consumer cameras like the one you already have, which can go anywhere from $100 to $500.
2. What will you primarily be using the camera for? Are you a hobbyist, or do you mainly take photos of family events or snapshots of friends, etc?
3. Do you care about size/portability? Does the camera need to fit in your pocket?
If you answer these questions, I can better help you narrow down your choices. Thanks!
The answer to your first question is about $600 and might not even be able to be that much I am trying to get my mom and uncle to split the price for my christmas. I am a student in college now so I can not aford it yet.
The answer to question two. I am definatly a hobbyist but, I also take pictures of family events and of my friends. Recently I took the photographs for my Grandparents 25th anniversary I really enjoy nature pictures but I also like taking portraits, and snapping pictures of people just walking or acting nature in a common setting. I have taken photo 1 but, this semester and the semesters following I am not going to have any time and I don't want to stop b/c I really love taking pictures. Basically I want one for everything one I can take fun pictures with and one I can put on a tripod and take pictures of the beach or whatever.
The answer to question 3 yes I care about size I want to be able to print pretty big. No it does not matter the size of the camera of coarse I dont want one to heavy to carry around hiking or whatever but it does not have to fit into my pocket just have a strap and a bag or be able to fit into a camera bag ya know.
Hopefully I made it easier for you to answer my question Thank you so much for your help.
I have three choices of cameras I have found so far maybe you can help tell me if they are good or not.
1. Canon EOS 30D
2. Canon Digital Rebel XTi/canon 400D
3. Canon Digital Rebel XT/Canon 350D
Thank you!
My recommendation in general, like when you put these cameras side by side and ask which one is best, is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... I am constantly amazed at the photo quality and flexibility and wish I was marrying rich so I could buy it for everyone I know. However, I can see that this is somewhat out of the price range you're thinking and it's also a pretty darned heavy duty camera for your first 'real' digital.
Because of that, my recommendation for you in particular is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... XTI</a>- the instruction manual is a little hazy, but in general this camera is user friendly for newbies yet gives good enough results for professionals. But, you have to promise that you'll learn how to use all the settings. It's a lot more fun that way and you'll get much better results.
I'm sure Ben will have some good advice for you too!
First of all, the cameras you've mentioned are all excellent cameras, but you'll be very lucky to get them for under $600. Any price you find under $600 is probably going to be from a shady New York-based "grey market" site--whatever you do, do not do business with them. Reasonable prices for these cameras from reliable stores are as follows: 30D should be about $1150, 400D should be about $775-800 (with lens), and the 350D can be had as cheap as the $600 mark.
These cameras are all digital SLRs (single lens reflex cameras), which means that unlike the vast majority of digital cameras, they have removable lenses, real optical viewfinders, and can snap photos just as quickly as film SLRs. They generally have very little or no shutter lag, can shoot to uncompressed file formats like RAW and TIFF, and offer advanced manual controls that no non-SLR camera can match.
They're also a serious investment, especially when you get the urge to experiment with new lenses, which usually end up costing several arms and legs. They are pretty large (larger than any non-SLRs) and they usually require a camera bag, especially if you have more than one lens.
So, what you need to do is take a step back and decide what kind of camera you really want. A SLR will provide you with unlimited potential and opportunity, but it's also a serious investment of both money (probably over a thousand, eventually, with lenses and accessories) and time (to learn all of its functions/settings and how to best use them), and it won't be the easiest to just pick up and take with you any and everywhere. If you go with a non-SLR you'll be sacrificing some of that potential for convenience. You can get any number of SLR-like cameras that are smaller, cheaper, and capable of producing very nice photos--just not quite as sharp and lifelike as their big brethren.
Cameras in this upper non-SLR range generally offer long, image-stabilized zooms, tons of manual control, and the option to fit on a select few external lenses via a lens adapter. Canon (S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), Sony (H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), and Panasonic (FZ7, FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) are pretty much the class leaders, but there are also quality offerings from Kodak and Fuji. I personally own the predecessor to the S3 IS, the S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which I can attest to being capable of some really stunning images.
I'm sorry that I can't really offer you a clear-cut answer here (just more questions!), but I don't want to see you saddled with a camera that isn't right for what you want and need. Hope it helps. :)
Neither the S3 IS or the XTi offer a printer dock accessory, but both are PictBridge compatible. PictBridge is an industry-standard technology that allows you to print directly from a camera to a printer (via the USB cable), entirely bypassing the computer middleman. There are hundreds of PictBridge printers and I'm not really all that familiar with them, unfortunately, but I can say from personal experience that Canon's printers are, in general, very good. Hope this helps!
It also has exposure compensation, and shooting modes like night portrait, night landscape, sunset and even candlelight. There's even a bracketing mode which enables you to take three pictures within a half stop either way. It's a good way to test lighting conditions and see what's the best fstop to shoot from.
For shooting theater w/out flash, you're going to want to try and have a tripod or monopod to keep the camera as still as possible. Use the exposure compensation to give you an additional stop and even check out the night modes. Recommend you go to a rehearsal to test the various modes. That way you can find out what modes will work best with the specific lighting the theater is using for any given play.
Thanks!
But if you just want a little more than point and shoot, the P712 can get it done, sure.
I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on eBay. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Andrew
As for the 5D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- yes it's gorgeous, yes it's expensive, and it's also got a bigger sensor with less pixels 'crowded' onto it. It's a better camera. But it may not be what you need particularly if you can't afford it.
Here are some image tests that might help you decide, pay special attention to the low light shots:
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT. If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D on eBay. They are very fast and have very clear and crisp shots. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Linda
If it's an AF lens that fits on a newer (EF-mount) Canon body, it should work on the 400D. However, in googling your question I ran across at least one user who said he had trouble getting his Quantaray 28-90mm to focus properly ( photography-on-the.net/foru... ) using his Rebel XT. If I were you, I'd take your lens into a local camera shop and try it. Many camera shops will allow you to try your lenses on their demo models.
Good luck!
I already have decent glass in my 2 current eos lenses, so megapixels don't factor into my decision (I wont be printing bigger than 11x14). The 400d's still seem to be having glitches in underexposure, while the 20d's have been around long enough to have corrected all of their own glitches. They seemingly have the same amount of features, except for the notable dust-reduction technology on the 400d, and only the 20d features spot metering. Are there more notable differences I should know about? One important difference is in the material. The 400d is only fragile plastic, while the 20d sports a more rugged magnesium alloy body (some say that the solid feeling adds for more handheld stability). But does the material of the body even really matter? I would gratefully appreciate an answer to these questions and whatever other insight I can get on this topic.
Personally, if I had the money for it, I would go with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... 20D</a>. If you already have EOS lenses, then I'll assume you know how to work with SLR cameras. You won't need the entry level. Go for the big boy in the 20D.
Andrew
* 10D and Rebel 300
* 20D and Rebel 350 XT
* 30D and Rebel 400 XTi
Within each generation, the cameras use the same (identical) image processing chip and internal electronics, so are the same in some important ways: start up time, focus and exposure time, image quality. Non-Rebel and Rebel within each generation differ in two main ways: metal vs. polycarbonate bodies, and some software functions are disabled in the Rebel, making the metal version a bit heavier, and also a bit more durable. Otherwise, they take the same lenses, take the same pictures and are all great, great cameras.
It was clear that there was a big leap in performance between first generation and second. The 20D and 350D were blockbuster cameras -- they completely wowed the reviewers and the people who use them. Perhaps the most important change is the 2-/12 LCD, which is a good thing. While the third generation is not so dramatically better than the second -- a bit faster, better high-ISO performance, bigger LCD: generally reviews come down to something like "even better".
So I'll take a slightly different position than Andrew and recommend the 400D (XTi) over the 20D, unless you are doing a lot of photography in bad weather or rough conditions.
The 20D is no longer being made, so what you buy is either old stock, returns, or refurbished -- all of these are fine as long as you're sure you're getting the genuine article ... but even so, prices are still around $850 (the 30D is around $1050). The 400D is around $700.
Are your going to be taking your camera in rough conditions on a regular basis? If you'll be hiking, climbing, river wading, snow storms and other non-camera-friendly adventures, the more durable metal body is worth the extra money, even if it's heavier. Otherwise, save your money for a nicer lens and go with the Rebel and get one incredibly blazing fast and great camera.
i wish they had reply buttons for posts. anyway, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my question.
i guess my qualm about the body material is because i hope to have a camera that lasts me through college (or at least 2-3 years). furthermore, no, i will not be taking my camera through rough conditions. but i will however be travelling with it a lot (a eurotrip this summer). so i just want to make sure that i have a dependable camera, one that i can carry around with me the whole time and not have to worry about missing a shot. i suppose i'm just paranoid about the plastic body breaking. but then again, who goes around dropping their d-slr, right?
That is when I am backpacking, skiing or generally hiking. I own the 20D and use it for all these things, but
am seeking a 400D as a backup camera for the outdoor excursions when every ounce counts.
If I pair the 400D with a 24-85 Canon lens (pretty sharp for a consumer lens), then I have a sub-two-pound
package for the backcountry.
Which of the Canon zoom lenses would be a good-quality alternative?
The Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is pretty hardcore and offers more manual control than you probably ever realized you could have. It's quite an investment, but worth it provided you know how to use it.
Honestly? If you haven't already, I'd go to the camera store and see how the top DSLRs feel in your hands. When it gets right down to it any of them are going to fit your needs, and you should go with the one that feels best/ most natural to you.
Thanks
Why not just get him the Digital XIi? There are some great prices here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and your dad can use his old canon lenses quite easily with no adapters.
If your Tamron lens is a Canon mount autofocus lens, which it seems to be, it should work with all Canon dSLRs with no problems whatsoever.
Frankly, when you get down to it most of the lower-end dSLRs are very similar in most of their specs. It usually comes down to personal preference regarding the minute differences in the way they handle and feel in the hand that ends up provoking the kind of endless debates you've been reading on the internet. This is why some guys will rant for pages on end about Nikon's superior sharpness and others will rant just as long about Canon's more natural looking images. What I would recommend is that you take your lens into a local major electronics store and try it on the Canon--see how it feels in your hand. The camera should be usable, so take a few snaps and see how you like the image quality. According to Tamron's page ( tamron.com/lenses/prod/a03.asp ), the lens is usable with the Nikon D mount, so it might work on the D80 as well. It's worth a shot.
Hope this helps!
You're going to want a nice "fast" lens (one with a wide open aperture). Something like the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) would be perfect. The extra wide f/2.8 aperture will work great for you.
Andrew
Any other things I should be concerned about before making my XTi purchase?
Andrew
Don't worry about the metering; as Andrew said, the partial metering is just another way of judging the light needed for the photo. Just as effective and some people prefer it.
The 400D/XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) should be perfect for her if she's not looking to go full-time pro. Take a look at the user reviews! :)
Hope this helps.
If you don't want to go that price point, I think the S3IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) can do the job. Downside is you won't be able to grow into it as much as the Rebel XTi.
It's quick to start up, quick to focus, and the shutter lag isn't much at all. For multiple shots, the camera can take another picture in about a second. Low light focusing was very good thanks to the S3's AF-assist lamp. Battery life is best-in-class.
As for photo quality - it gets high marks up to ISO 800, where you'll get some grain that needs cleaning up in photoshop.
But here's the thing. Prices listed for the S3, are north of $300. Sure. But not even twice that, you get a 10 MP (vs. 6 for the S3) camera with the ability to have multiple lenses (including some great older ones that will also work) and with action sports shots, you'll want a greater zoom range to catch the image from afar. Faster shutter speeds and burst modes. And RAW picture support! No compression on your pictures. That's worth it right there. And like I said, you can grow into it. A few years down the road, you'll still be using it, or even if you do look for a newer model at that point, any accesories you have will probably be compatible with newer models. That's been Canon's SLR history.
Whereas with the S3 or any other substitute, you'll be looking for another camera a few years later.
Just a thought.
I did a comparo side by side between S3IS and Sony's H2 which is the direct competitor.
The results were:
1. Noise is lower at high ISO on Sony.
2. Optics are better on Sony
3. Battery life is equal but Sony uses only two batteries and the Sony comes with rechargeables and charger.
4. Canon can take more pictures before the buffer needs to be flushed
5. Canon has a flip-out LCD screen which is nice.
6. Sony has a more powerfull flash.
7. Memory cards are less expensive for Canon.
8. Sony is still $100 CDN less than Canon.
This camera comes with various different accesories depending on where you buy it. Some come with a 2GB, 1GB, or no card.
Andrew
No, this just means that it doesn't include the kit lens. Digital SLRs are typically either sold "body only" or "kit", the former meaning it has everything but a lens and the latter meaning it has everything, including a lens (usually 18-55mm). A body-only unit still includes all the usual accessories.
Hope this helps!
I'm very interested in the Sony 100a ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because of the internal image stabilization. Although the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does not come with this feature, I would still lean towards it more. The 9 point auto focus and faster processor make it a very viable option as well as the vibrational/ultrasonic dust reduction and "dust mapping." I just love the Canon.
Andrew
For your budget, I would really have to recommend the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All the cameras will be ok, but you'll have to spend a little more on a lens to work in the gym without a flash. You'll want something at f/2.8 or faster, and that can run you another $1000 easily depending on what brand you get. The Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) will run over $1200, but you can get a little less quality from a non-name brand lens like the Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 lens for Nikon ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) for around $350. The lens is what will make your shots better indoors. Good luck.
If you are ok with a lower quality lens, I would go for the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 lens for Canon ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/s... ).
Andrew
Personally, I would stick to the name brand lenses as well. If you want to adjust the zoom at all, the Nikon 85mm f/1.8D ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) will not accomodate that. The superfast f/1.8 capability will be great in the gym though. If you want to go with the 24-85mm lens, that might be a better option for getting close ups. I would go for the zoom lens personally.
Andrew
Anytime. Good luck with your camera hunt. Please come back if you have any more questions. Don't forget to mark the best answer if you feel we've answered what you need.
Andrew
I have the chance to buy a D70 used. Although the initial question was WRT the D50 and D80, is it worth looking at? and at what price point?
Honestly, any dSLR is going to be pretty good at this provided you're using the right settings (adjusting ISO, aperture, and shutter speed accordingly). However, two that you might want to consider are the Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), as both of them feature an in-body image stabilization mechanism that will compensate for hand movement when shooting in low light. This will allow you to use settings you might not otherwise get away with. For example, you could use a slightly slower shutter speed and thus a lower ISO setting, which would give you a clear image with less image noise. This won't work 100% all of the time, but it will certainly help.
Good luck!
You're not the only one who's had this issue. At least one other XTi user has posted here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) about problems with the flash recycle time on the camera. I can't find many other complaints about it elsewhere on the net, though. It sounds to me like the internal flash is just a bit of a power hog compared to your hot shoe flashes, and that after a few shots it's used up the on-hand charge and has to re-cycle the flash power. Maybe someone with more experience than myself will come along and help you out here, but from what I've read it doesn't seem like a defect--more of a function of the design of the camera.
Good luck!
Dear Sven Petersen:
Thank you for contacting Canon product support. We value you as a Canon
customer and appreciate the opportunity to assist you with your EOS
Digital Rebel XTi.
What you experience is normal. The flash can take some time to recycle.
Page 54 of the manual provides a warning about using the flash for
approximately 20 shots in short intervals. We recommend that you use a
flash on the hot shoe if you need to use a flash extensively.
We hope this information is helpful to you. Please let us know if we
can be of any further assistance with your EOS Digital Rebel XTi.
Thank you for choosing Canon.
Sincerely,
Erik
Technical Support Representative
Thanks for the postings. Is Canon paying attention?
I have approxomatly 13 days to take the camera back to Best Buy. I think I will buy a flash and see if that does anything for me. I am so disappointed in Canon.
I almost returned mine (for the second time) but decided not to, because there IS A FIX. Simply push the flash back down and it is ready to go again (you can keep doing this many times). Kind of a pain, but it works, and indicates to me (a non-tech person) that the camera is physically able to continue to take flash photos so it must be a programming glitch on Canon's part. With enough complaints (and/or returned cameras to deal with), maybe Canon will give us a software patch!!
Anyway, try the "push-down" approach, and let me know how it worked for you.
LLSD: If I have to push down the flash, that to me is a faulty camera.
Return if possible.
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my camera now!! OOodles of perfect pix of my baby.
Pretty simple, really. Onboard flash typically takes a terrible shot anyway, doesn´t it?
We have some of our product photography with the camera at rossirovetti.com , and we find that it's a great tool for all lighting scenarios.
Thanks,
1. Supports the AF assist beam features of the new flash, Speedlite 270 EX, which is scheduled to be released in April 2009.
I'm not a pro and have no idea if this update will help the problem or do nothing. Thanks in advance!
Similarly most external flash units does not have this kind of protection. If you run it too hard, it will overheat and may be damaged.
The built-in flash on any DSLR is a convenience feature intended for very light use. If you need to do long burst with flash, you should consider an external unit. Actually, if you intend to use a flash at all, on a regular basis, you should consider an external flash. A typical professional DSLR doesn't even have a built-in flash, for good reason.
Btw, you may be able to increase the burstability of your built-in flash by disabling red-eye reduction. Obviously reducing the strength of the flash by manual control or opening up the aperture would have a smiliar effect. This should also decrease the general recycle time.
There are also ways to avoid using a flash at all. I for one hardly use flashes outside the studio. An EF 50mm F/1.8 and ISO400 should get you a long way.
The Rebel also comes with burst modes for multiple shots, sports scenes, image stabilization, the works.
I know we're talking about going "all in" on an SLR system here, but for capturing your son's games, you really need the power, speed, and flexibility of an SLR to get the shots you want and get them well. This isn't a point and shoot situation, IMHO.
As for costs, the link will have a listing of some great prices.
Thanks!
Brian
You might try the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a lot of advances over its predecessor, and remains in an affordable range for you to pick up extra lenses too since the body's price is only $599. It also has some nice features such as vibrational/ultrasonic dust reduction and "dust mapping" for automatic post-production removal. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
You might try a next day shipping option if you need a charger. Amazon.com's UK site ( amazon.co.uk/Battery-Travel... ) has them in stock. You might also try going to a London local camera store ( acecam.com/uk-used-cameras.... ) for the charger. I don't know of a AA adapter for the camera, but it would also be at one of the camera shops if available. Good luck.
Andrew
The Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) uses the NB-2LH battery, same as its predecessor. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
O.K. Since I have this lens, I would like to be able to use it when I get a Xti400D and it's good to know it is useable!
I guess it will be good enough glass to create fine images.
I also, would like to get a new lens to use with Xti400D that is good for quick snaps of my dogs etc. but would not be so heavy, do you have a suggestion. I like to do large prints 8x10 or larger. (not poster size)
truman
Thanks!
Good Luck!
Short answer is, not really, not without losing image quality or creating a huge hassle for yourself- although adaptors do exist they're far from practical. There's an excellent discussion of this <a href="photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... that should answer your questions better than I can!
For this type of functionality, you're going to want a dSLR camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a couple different lenses. Most dSLR cameras come with a versatile wide angle zoom lens that is perfect for the basic shots you want to take. For the wildlife and extended range photos, you'll want a good telephoto lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/3... ) with a lens of 300mm or more. You really have to set your budget, because this type of photography can hit your wallet pretty hard. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
If you get the higher extended zooms, I would also invest in a tripod. Camera shake will increase at the higher zooms, and having that for stability will help immensly.
Andrew
Depending on which camera you purchase, a good telephoto lens can run you over $1000. Were you asking for just the lens, or the entire setup?
Andrew
If you get something decent, but still a good starter camera, I would recommend the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for about $645. As for a lens, you can get the Canon 70-300mm IS lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) for about $526. This puts your running total at $1171. You can get a tripod for under $30 on Amazon.com ( amazon.com/Opteka-Professio... ). That puts your total (before shipping and tax) at $1200. Remember that you'll also want some [urlamazon.com/gp/product/B0001... cards[/url], and an extra battery with charger ( amazon.com/BATTERY%2BCHARGE... ) for your camera too. You're also going to want a good camera bag ( amazon.com/Lowepro-SlingSho... ) to carry your equipment. I've found the sling bags are easier to maneuver with than a traditional bag. These extras will add another $130 plus shiping and tax. Overall, you'll be closer to $1,500 for all new equipment. I'd keep my eye out on places like eBay for deals though.
Andrew
If you are interested in the subject, perhaps you would consider other Canon models such as S80, S70, S60 or even older models like 30D.
a. Purchase and install to your computer a third party
software call "DSLR Remote Pro" from Breeze Systems.
b. Connect your 400D to the computer via a USB cable.
c. Run the DSLR Remote Pro and set the time intervals for
pictures to be taken.
Basically DSLR Remote Pro is designed to enable Professional photographers to take pictures remotely through a computer.
The pictures are automatically downloaded to the Hard Disk of the PC.
Apart from the many features, the software also incorporate a time lapse feature which is probably what you want.
At $127, it is a bit expensive for the amateurs, but should be OK for those who needs it.
If our friend wanted to take time lapse picture of a flower from the small flower bulb stage to fully opened stage, and does it automatically 24 hours a day for one to two days, it calls for professional softwares written for the purpose.
pclix.com/pages/pclix_main....
Dali Lami at a hot dog stand: "Make me one with everything!"
I use my Laptop to trigger my 400d using the supplied software but you can build your own for about $20 and a little time. If you know how to solder then you can do it.
And if you want to learn at your own pace, you'll only get so far with a point and shoot before you begin to think ... man, why didn't I go SLR?
But if you're dead set on staying where you are, then I tink the IS is a better choice because of image stabilization, widescreen shooting, etc. I understand your concern about slow flash recovery, but according to the specs, the flash recycle times are identical between the two mdodels you mention. And how often are you going to be in flash conditions versus non flash?
You make a good point in challenging just how often I'll be in flash conditions. If shots indoors are included in flash conditions, than I have to say about 1/2 the time. But, I'm not confident in what qualifies flash conditions.
Also, I've gotten the impression after pouring through reviews that the auto mode of the 710 still requires some settings decisions (and I'm guessing many haven't mastered that, thus giving poor quality reviews). Even though I'm interested in learning more, I still want to be able to fumble in my pocket, hit the power button and catch my toddler and puppy wrestling in the grass -- without thinking about what setting it is on or needs to be on. Is there any legitimacy to this impression of 710's auto mode?
I just bought it, and I need help.
does anyone know how to set the aperture and stuff manually?
thanks.
Now, onto your question (page 71): Set the mode dial to <M> for manual. Then you can set the shutter speed, and the aperture (also depress the Av +/- button while you spin the dial.
You can shoot from full auto to completely manual, so it's a great camera that you can grow with should you wish to make it a serious hobby.
Here's a few quotes:
"If you're trying to avoid camera-shake, a monopod will save you between two and four stops versus hand-holding ( nicholsonprints.com/Article... ), depending on how you use it and how still you can hold the pod. You can get extra stability by leaning the monopod against a nearby tree or wall." - A monopod will buy you leeway with stops, and it will allow for quick setup in time-sensitive situations, but in the most crucial instances of strong image-making — in great magic-hour light, or with deep-horizon scenes — it cannot compare with a tripod's ability to keep your camera absolutely still."
"If you hand hold your camera your pictures won't be pin sharp as hand holding telephoto lenses causes camera shake - not even a high shutter speed will give you pin sharp images. Always use a monopod, even better if you can use a tripod ( 640pixels.com/articles/spor... )."
"Camera movement is one of the main contributors to ruined images. And while most photographers can hand hold cameras fairly well, there’s a reason that most pros who shoot sports use a monopod—to ensure consistent results they need to keep that camera
steady, especially if using longer lenses. If you need mobility, a good monopod is an excellent tool." ( expodisc.com/UserFiles/File... )
"When panning or using a slow shutter speed it's important to have a steady hand: leaving the shutter open for a long time allows the motion of the camera to affect the final picture. That's why sports photographers like to use tripods, or even monopods ( adobe.com/education/digkids... ). A monopod is a like a walking stick that connects to the bottom of a camera, and allows you to steady it while you're shooting. They are a really great investment for anyone shooting sports pictures, and really can help improve the quality of a sports photographer's images."
Honestly, for a beginning SLR photographer, there's not a huge difference between the XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and XTi. The three main differences are the XTi's higher resolution (albeit coming from the same sized image sensor), a larger and higher resolution LCD screen, and a better continuous shooting mode. The XTi also features an automatic dust-cleaning filter that will reportedly keep your imaging sensor from getting dirty--it's a nice feature, but probably not worth the $$$ premium.
Honestly, I'd go with the XT and put the money you save toward an additional lens or two. Bodies aren't really the most important part of SLR shooting... it's the glass that really makes the difference.
Good luck!
Here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) is a great site that will show you all different types of lens that are compatable with the Canon XTi so you can browse yourself. If you have further questions about a specific model or a comparison just sent another question our way.
Good Luck
more discripte for lens canon 400D
Other than that, they're about even, really with similar features, same body design, same size of LCD screen. The XTi has the Self Cleaning Sensor which uses low frequency sound waves to shake dust from the lens. That's cool. As for lenses, I'm tempted to advise going with something around 28-200 for a wide range of shots. But since you really love portraits, I would say to maybe stick with a 28-105 for good that.
One thing is an absolute must, however, no matter what lenses you buy. You need to make sure you purchase a 1A skylight filter with EVERY lens you have. Trust me, it's the best insurance policy you'll ever enjoy with an SLR. I can't tell you how many times I destroyed the filter, but saved the lens thanks to this.
Good Luck
If you use your camera a great deal or are hard on it (I take my 10D on hiking and camping trips, for example) then the extra money is probably worth it. Otherwise the less expensive (and lighter) XTi is probably a better choice.
These are both very good cameras, and both have very solid feature sets. They're very closely matched in most regards. There are, however, a few differences.
The Canon has an automatic dust removal feature that keeps the CCD clean, a very nice 10MP sensor, and reverse compatibility with all Canon autofocus lenses. Unfortunately, your T70 uses the older FD mount manual lenses, so they won't do you much good with the XTi.
The Nikon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), on the other hand, has superior build quality (just feels more solid in your hand--more metal, less plastic), offers spot metering (which the Canon doesn't--you'll have to use your live histogram), and has a brighter, clearer viewfinder.
Frankly, I think you'd be happy with either camera. If you've been happy with Canon products in the past, that might be enough to tip your hand here. You might, however, want to check out this comprehensive side-by-side comparison ( dcviews.com/reviews/Canon-R... ) of the D80 and XTi. It does a much better job than I could ever do of enumerating the pros and cons of each camera.
one Opteka .45x High Definition II wide angle lens 55 mm and
one Opteka 3.2x High Definition II Telephoto lens
I have been using both the lenses with my previous camera Fuji Finepix S 5100.
Now, Can I use both the above mentioned lenses with my new Canon EOS 400D / Digital Rebel ? If yes, where can I get hold of suitable adapter ring for the same?
Unfortunately, adapter lenses like the ones you listed above use a very different lens mount/aperture than dSLR lenses, and there's pretty much no way to make them fit on a dSLR. Furthermore, they are very, very low quality when compared to purpose-build SLR lenses. Even if there were an adapter, I'd caution you strongly against using them with a 400D.
Hope this helps!
This will be useful in situations where the space is limited and you want to cover as wide an angle as possible. For example a group photo in a small room or a building within close range.
If you take these type of photos often, and wish on more than one occasion, that you could cover more area by taking a few steps backwards and got blocked by something, then you need the 18-55mm lens.
But after searching Canon sites in USA, Europe, Australia and Asia, I found that only firmware of 350D is available but not 400D.
You may want to try again, starting with Canon Asia :
canon-asia.com/index.jsp?fu...
Officially, no, you can't. When Canon moved to the EOS SLR system, they orphaned the FD lens mount, which is the one older manual Canon SLRs like your AE1 used. The FD and EOS (EF) mounts are different in size and mechanism, and they're entirely incompatible.
Unofficially, maybe. There were several FD-EF lens adapters made, most by third party and some by Canon. The Canon ones are hard to come by these days. Some of these adapters resulted in loss of infinity focus, some basically function as a short teleconverter. Regardless of which one you manage to find, the adapter necessitates using stop-down metering (or aperture priority) and manual focus.
If you're willing to go through the hassle of doing everything manually and losing some functionality, it might be worth it to you to go down the adapter road.
Hope this helps!
There's another "version" of this camera called the XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- technically this cameras is almost the same; the main differences are that the 400D had a plastic (polycarbonate) body, not metal, and some features (notably the spot meter) are disabled via software. Oh, and it's several hundred dollars less.
These cameras are sometimes sold with a "kit lens"; there are several variants of these, and they are packaged by Canon. While generally it's a cheap lenses, the consensus is that they are a great value, so if you don't have lenses already, the kit lens is a good place to start. Some resellers will attempt to sell you packages containing all sorts of neato stuff just so they can charge you and extra $30 or $40 -- buy it own your own. You will need at least one CompactFlash card, and I recommend a spare battery; both can be purchased separately.
So, the 30D comes one way: awesome!
I don't know if there are any specific instructions for the 400D, but this page ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoco... ) at wikipedia lists several different methods for geotagging photos. The simplest seems to be manually entering coordinates via a photo service like flickr. The free tool mentioned there, ExifTool, also might be a good choice.
Hope this helps!
also, I'd like to buy a wide angle lens. A lot of people seem to be of opinion that Canon is better. Are their lenses that much better for the price difference? In which ways are their bodies different (sharpness, colour, features, etc)
Since you are talking about Rebel and D70 you will probably not buy Canon and Nikon brand lenses that cost many times more than the camera itself? The lenses that usually come with those cameras are usable only for general travel photography in good light etc. Any wide aperture professional lens costs almost always over $1000 if it is made by Nikon or Canon. Generally you will need 3 lenses for your camera- wide angle zoom like 10-20mm, general zoom like 17-55mm and tele zoom like 70-200mm or more. The last two lenses should have aperture 2.8 and preferably macro capability. The first wide angle zoom lens aperture may be around 4 or so. If you buy Nikon or Canon made lenses you will end up paying around $4500 for those 3 lenses. But you can get aftermarket Sigma or Tamron ones that will cost around $1500 in total.
Both Canon and Nikon are very good and popular cameras. If you decide for Nikon then go for D50 instead of D70. D70 is an old model and the results are not as good as using D50.
I don't know if Canon makes there own DIGIC chips, or subs it out to someone like Texas Instruments---but either way, a lot of money is invested in a chip run.
The DIGIC III has face recognition---pretty cool, I hear.
Sounds about right. I have a Canon SD550 and I bought an SD990 in November to take out to AZ in January for snapshots - it is easy to notice the difference in save time between shots, especially when you factor in the larger file size of the SD990 pictures
The reason for the question is that I am ready to buy a DSLR that will let me shoot in RAW format and noticed that the top-rated Canon DSLRs were using the DIGIC II chip. I plan to wait a month or two to see if there is any change announced at the spring shows, but you are probably on target - they won't make a change until the timing is right for their new products and with the current high rating they may not be inclined to mess with success.
I was also considering the Sigma Foveon SD14 but nobody has seen one yet. And I would probably have to go with only Sigma lenses that are "tuned for that camera" if I bought it. Decisions, decisions.
Did you notice the reasonably-priced dSLRs that came on the scene lately? Like the Nikon D40 and the Pentax 100D/both under $600. But I don't know if they have the RAW feature that you want.
When you're ready to move on from that, it's easily a case of experimenting more advanced features, should you be interested in growing into your camera.
If you want to simply point and shoot to capture the moment, and if you don't have any interest in photography as a hobby or even experimenting with various features, then perhaps a more basic camera would be more to your liking.
But as for the SP-550z, I think it would definitely take you places photography wise. It's just whether or not you want to invest that kind of money for a camera that's in between point and shoot or SLR.
For hobbies, I'd tend to go with an SLR like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
I think either the Rebel XT or XTI is perfect for anyone who is just starting out or who is a casual photographer. Once you begin with this camera you will love it!
They are more automatic than they are manual (which is why I am upgrading), they are super easy to learn to use, and you will learn a lot very quickly if you enjoy it as much as I found I do.
They offer a lot of lens options and they take beautiful photos that will easily make you the favorite family photograher at all gatherings.
I think it is a wise purchase choice here, no question.
i've been researching DSLRs and lenses, and have seen raves about canon's the image stabilized lenses. that, plus the fact that other makers are putting IS in-camera has me wondering why it's better to buy expensive lenses with IS, than doing it in camera.
i'd prefer a canon dsl, but want affordable image stabilization. what would you recommend?
If cost is a major concern, then I'd recommend purchasing the Canon Xti (body only). Then take a look at the image stabilization lenses (Canon, not copies). I had similar concerns (previously had Sony cameras / non SLR but built in image stabilization (IS)). I purchased an Xti packaage and added a 28-135 IS Canon lens and it works great. Honestly, I thought the IS was a bigger deal initially than it turns out to but the photo capturing capability of the Xti is quick; therefore, blurs are less common / even with the non IS lenses I own. Also, built in image stabilization can delay photo capturing on cameras but usually cameras allow you to turn off this option if needed. Hope this helps...good luck with your information search.
I would not even go there. The world will pass you by if you wait. I understand the extra cost of the lenses, but there are ways around that. There is a simple inexpensive solution that's been used for years by pro-sport and wild life National Geographic photographers for their hand held zoom situations. Try using a monopod, every lens will become more stable than any image stabilization system. Give it a try. Its a cheap investment of around $30-$50. The worse case scenerio would be, you will have an extra piece of useful photo equipment that can be used for the right situations. I also use one with my camcorder when I shoot with long zooms. It works a much better than the built in image stabilization system and with a monopod you can use your camera with one hand.
A monopod will save you a bundle of cash when buying the regular Digital lenses!
Happy Shopping!
The 2.5 inch LCD screen on your camera does not have HD quality built in to it. It is not the lens, just the technology in the screen.
Andrew
If you're worried about the lighter, plastic body, you might try the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a magnesium-clad body to help make it more sturdy. The price tag is higher, but the features and strength might be of value to you. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
My previous camera was Fuji Fine pix S 5100.
When I shoot the same landscape using Canon 400D and Fuji Fine pix S 5100, the Canon's one is very dull in color when compared to the Fuji's shot.
I know there are lot of differences between the two.
But I wonder what I have to adjust in 400D to get the vivid colors that Fuji Fine pix S 5100 produces? Something to do with white balancing ? Please help me
What setting is your Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on when you take the picture? You might try keeping the camera in Auto mode with the white balance on Daylight/Sunny. I would also have your ISO setting at 100 or 200 and use a tripod. I hope this helps.
Andrew
has 8 MP
Great 2.5 in. screen
good quality
From what I can see on the Olympus E500, it looks like a pretty standard starter dSLR camera. The ISO levels are low compared to its competitors though, so if you want low light exposure, you'll have to play with the light balance to "trick" the camera into a higher ISO setting. Thats looks like one of the main downsides to me.
Andrew
The camera produces a great quality 8 megapixel image. ISO levels begin to show noise (a grainy look to the images) at higher levels, which means if you intend to shoot more low light work, you will see more noise in the images.
However, that being said, I use my Olympus gear professionally as well as for recreation and have produced some very pleasing images. The following link is from an E-300 (the predecessor of the E-500) shot in almost darkness (20 second exposure) at Philadelphia's Eastern State Penitentiary. I did no noise reduction on the image (all that was done is resize and a little bit of sharpening)
pbase.com/kevgre/image/5945...
I find the Olympus images are more than satisfying for my work both in studio and out. As a new user starting out, the price of the E-500 and standard kit lens is very appealing.
The Olympus series of cameras also offer one more feature that I simply love and that is a vibrating sensor that knocks dust specs off and keeps the images clean. I have a Canon 1D MK II and 20D and I am cleaning those sensors about once every 2 months to get the dust specs off of them (that show up as spots in the images).
There is a good host of lenses made by Olympus and now Sigma Corporation once you want to move up to a faster / longer lens. The E-500 is also comfortable for most hands and even with lens does not weigh you down.
I have 20" x 30" prints processed from my E-500 and E-300 cameras which look amazing.
The only additional purchase you will have to make would be for the compact flash memory card to go with it. I have seen the prices of larger memory cards bottom out in the last few months (much cheaper). Depending on your requirements, 2 - 4GB compact flash cards should give you enough shots to handle a busy day. I use 8 and 16GB cards but I rarely fill them up.
Recommended considerations would be 1 additional BLM-01 battery as backup, and a uv protecting filter for your lens. (these are optional and may be added at a later date).
As a note, the reason the E-500 camera is at this price point now, is there are 2 new models coming out sometime in June, the e-410, and the e-510 cameras. The primary differences on these new models will be a 10 megapixel image size, and with the e-510 (image stabilization). The price points of the new models are going to be in the ballpark of 799 (e-410) and 899 (e-510).
Hope this helps you out in your decision.
Great overall summery of many of the positive aspects concerning the E-500. I am a professional artist, (realistic painter) and use my E-500 extensively for resource material. The long lense is great. My only concern is trying to get the right white ballance and have to really work at this but I will assume many other digital cameras in the catagory are also similar. The prices lately have been drastically reduced so now is the time.
Al
We often expect salesperson to know the products well, but occasionally there are exceptions.
If you have the intention of buying 400D, just go ahead and don't let the salesperson's word change your mind.
there is not much difference between those cameras. 20% more megapixels don't give you almost any advantage either. So I would recommend the 350. If you just take vacation and family pictures then the kit lens should satisfy your needs. You will need better lenses if you want to take pictures in poor light conditions or special pictures like birding for example.
Thanks in advance for response. -- correction --
the kit lenses just have lower speed, otherwise they are good enough for general photography. Your existing lenses don't have very wide aperture either, by the way. Generally, professional photographers use lenses that have the widest aperture 2.8 or better. Sigma, Tamron or Tokina lenses that have 2.8 aperture and focal length around 18-50 mm cost between $300 and $500. Canon brand lenses cost about twice as much. However, mainly you need such a wide aperture if you have to take pictures of indoors sports, inside museums and other low light areas where flaslight is not allowed. It is also handy for portrait photography.
The Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) uses EOS lenses specifically made for Canon EOS SLR cameras. Your camcorder lens probably has a 72mm threadwidth on it. The 18-55mm lens you can get with this camera has a 58mm threadwidth on it. You could use the two in conjunction on the camera with a series of step up rings, but it might be more trouble than its worth. I hope this helps.
Andrew
In the end, I think it goes to personal preference. Personally, I'd be happy with either of them. I know that's not the answer you want, but they are evenly matched camera manufacturers and it really comes down to which one you like best. So go to a camera store and hold them both. Maybe even rent them for a day (most will deduct the price of the rentals from the final price if you buy from them).
Both cameras are great though so it's down to your personal choice actually. I preferred the feel of the 40X over the XTI, but then it's because I was comparing it to my non digital Canon Digital Rebel EOS, as that feels more comfortable in the grip. The plastic used on the 40X feels designer quality in comparison to the XTI, plus the LCD and menus are a whole league better.
The D80 has an edge over this D40X in terms of better 2400 shots on a single charge to the D40X's 500+ but then again this is about 400$ cheaper. The D80 also has a DOF preview (Depth of Field), but doesn't support SDHC which this one does ...
One of the reasons the size on Canon more lighter than Nicon .
Yesterday I got Sigma lens 18-200 and it's PERFECT now .
Good luck.
so I could only view from view finder, even my dummy camera could do that, is this normal.
There are some dSLRs that allow you to see the picture while it is being taken. Olympus E330 is one of them where the term 'live view' was used to describe the feature.
see <a href="dpreview.com/reviews/olympu... review</a> for further information of live view.
Also, some events may not allow for flash for safety reasons. Sporting events like gymnastics are usually no-flash events because a flash may cause an athlete to fall and be injured. It is best to talk to an event official (referee, coach, etc.) before using your flash.
The faster your lens is, the better also. But faster means more expensive. So get the fastest lens you can afford. And use a tripod or at least a monopod. This will help guard against camera shake.
1. use tripod.
2. Larger flash if needed.
3. Use Higher ISO.
this is certainly a good lens. I would also consider Tokina 12-24mm f4 lens. It is about $100 more expensive but there is a huge difference between 12 and 17mm. The little cap between 24 and 28mm should not be a problem at all. Remember that when you get one of those lenses then you will also need appropriate software to eliminate all the "fisheye effects".
Sounds like you have a problem with the pics on your computer. The original ones.
How are u "burning the pics to the disk" what process are u using?
Format the problem card one more time and if it still is a problem on the program you are using try to manually drag and drop pics onto a folder on your computer then manually drag onto a blank disc.
you need to look for a lens instead of a camera. All dSLR cameras are "fast" if they have appropriate lens mounted on. Of course, some cameras have higher possible ISO setting. But if you set the ISO to 800 or higher then the pictures will have a lot of grain and you can not make large prints. Therefore the key is the lens. Look for a lens that has widest aperture 2.8 or even 2 or 1.8. There are almost no zoom lenses available with aperture 2 or 1.8. So you might look for a Nikon, Canon, Sigma or Tamron zoom lenses that have 2.8 aperture through the entire zoom area. Such Nikon and Canon lenses usually cost much more than the camera body. Sigma or Tamron one you can get for around $400.
I'm planning on upgrading soon from a Canon S3 IS to a DSLR and it is really difficult to make that final decision on "which one is it going to be??"
I wouldn't like to advise you between the two you mention, but I'd be interested in reading others replies because I'm thinking about either the Canon 30D or the Nikon D80. I'm swaying more towards the Nikon at the moment because it really is all about the lenses and I think Nikon has the best.
Are you deadset on Canon? Have you considered the Nikon D80?
Good luck with your decision,
Mark
If you want image stabilization for Canon Rebel XTi, you need to buy a Canon IS lens to go with it.
Similarly, Nikon has built in image stabilised lens known as VR lens. The combination can be Nikon 80D with any VR lens.
If you want a camera body that has built in image stabilization, then you have to buy Sony A100 , Pentax K100D or K10D.
For general info, see
<a href="dcviews.com/press/Sony-A100... A100</a>
<a href="shutterbug.com/equipmentrev... K100D</a>
<a href="nikonimaging.com/global/tec... VR</a>
<a href="photo.net/equipment/canon/&... IS</a>
You may also like to read this answer in <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... regarding image stabilization and Canon XTi.
Nikon's D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) doesn't either.
Most midrange cameras, like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) do, but although it does a fine job with it's 18x zoom, it's not a strict SLR.
Yes, any Canon Rebel AF lens should be compatible with any Canon digital SLR.
Good luck!
However, if you don't want to be a serious hobbyist or professional photographer, and still want great results ... well, lately I've been testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode.
So far, this is great for sports photography.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alterations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly and as with any digital camera you have a slight shutter lag. But other than that, it's a top notch camera for a little more than 1/3 of the price. Check out the link above for a few pretty competitive prices.
for using with attachments like telescopes, microscopes etc., the camera should normally be in fully manual mode. The telescope's aperture is fixed, so you need to set the shutter speed manually. If the planet is overexposed then just set higher shutter speed.
This message board thread ( photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... ) would seem to indicate that the lens works fine with the XTi. Really, any Canon EF or EF-S mount lens should work with any Canon dSLR, so you'll be fine here.
Good luck!
Why all countries don't stick to one name to avoid the confusion is beyond me!
You only format the memory card after it is full and the pictures have been saved in the computer.
The purpose of formatting is to clear the memory card of it's contents so that it can be reused again.
Looking for a good camera with zoom, (for the top of the stands).
All help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Ginger
If serious about photography, well, there's no beating an SLR with a good zoom lens for shooting distance shots. I like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a good 28-200 zoom. 10+ MP imagery, image stabilization, 9 point auto focus and the uncompressed RAW format option. This would be great for taking good dramatic shots from the sidelines where you can attach it to a mono pod and zoom into the action.
However, I'm not confident that's where you're headng. So here's a midrange option that goes beyond the point and shoot, but isn't a major league investment that an SLR requires ....
I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
Canon hasn't made any announcement yet regarding a 400D replacement. A large chunk of the camera world is waiting with bated breath for the first rumors to hit, but so far... nothing. Nothing except this joker ( yourphotoarchive.com/ye11.htm ), anyway.
Sorry!
I guess there's no reason not to order it then. Just wanted to make sure.
You guys will thank me though, as I have a feeling Canon will release the replacement the second my 400D arrives... :)
Even if they do, though, the 400D is a very good camera and there's no guarantee that the replacement--whatever it might be called--is much better. You can always wait for the next best thing, but if you keep doing it you'll be waiting forever. ;]
Good luck!
Anyway, I wish they'd put out a Digital SLR version of my old Canon F1. I don't need all the bells and whistles. Just autofocus alone is going overboard for me. If these cameras were made to my specs they would be much cheaper.
I know most people want all the auto stuff, but all I need is a manual camera, with a big enough sensor. I wonder if there's a market for that...
Until there is, I'll be getting myself a 400D.
Thanks for the reply.
There are a variety of adapters out there that adapt the FD-mount lenses used by your FTb and other late-model Canons to the current EOS lens mount and other manufacturers' mount systems. This one ( amazon.com/Adorama-Canon-Le... ) is just one example.
Note that if your lenses are manual they will still be manual with any dSLR you use them with.
With the above in mind, any of Canon's current dSLR line would be a good choice.
Hope this helps!
The Digic III processor is undoubtedly more efficient and powerful than the predecessor Digic II, but each is only one part of a very complex machine. The processor is responsible for rendering the image received by the sensor into pixels, and for handling compression from the raw capture to the JPEG result. There are many other factors involved in taking a photo, however, including the lens, the sensor itself, the settings options available, etc. The XTi is a superior camera for a number of these reasons (not to be an absolutist, but it's fair to say that pretty much every dSLR is superior to every non-dSLR), but the newer S5 IS just has the benefit of being "born" after the Digic III processor was put into production.
Hope this helps!
In automatic shooting mode, SLRs aren't any more advanced than your average non-SLR. They work pretty much like any other point and shoot camera--point and then shoot. The only big difference is that the shutter lag and focus lag are much much smaller (pretty much nonexistent).
As to your other concern, yes, lenses can be quite expensive. However, the kit lenses that come with most dSLRs are very versatile and will certainly last you long enough for you to progress from amateur to semi-pro. ;]
Both the XTi and the D40 would be good choices for a beginner. The Pentax K100D is another good choice, as it has in-camera image stabilization and is quite a bit cheaper than the other two you mentioned.
Good luck!
To buy the adapters, you can go to eBay at <a href="cgi.ebay.com/Canon-FD-Lens-... site</a>
or to Amazon.com at <a href="amazon.com/Canon-Lens-Body-... location</a>
There is also an article on the Japanese made FD to EOS adapter at <a href="lordofthelens.net/servlet/D... location</a> which you may want to read. The adapter is sold by S.Bower Inc (NYC) and carries a 10 year international warranty.
In addition, Canon has that great Image Stabilization feature in their lenses which allows for a more stable picture.
And any EF mounted lens will work. So if you have older Canon EOS lenses you don't have to sell them off for new ones.
For my money, I'd get the XTi and never look back.
i suggest a camera from the lumix range
i have one myself and often use it for land scapes
for more details
panasonic.co.jp/pavc/global...
You're going to want a camera that does well in low light settings. Depending on your budgets, I have a couple of recommendations.
If your budget is a little lower, I would go with an extended zoom camera like the Sony H7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This camera has a 15x zoom with an ISO setting up to 3200 (great for low light situations). The image stabilization will also help keep sharper photos at the long zoom distances. An issue you might see is "grainiess" or camera noise in photos at ISO 3200. Although that speed will let more light in, you get more camera noise that way.
If you want to spend a bit more for better quality, I would recommend a dSLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) camera like the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) combined with a lens that has a low aperture setting (f/stop number), and a decent amount of zoom (at least 100-200mm) like the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 ( amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-2... ) lens.
Andrew
Andrew ( blackdoorphotos.com/ )
I was also wondering if the Fujifilm has interchangable lenses.
Thanks!
Jack
Now, mind you, these are previous models, but I give the edge to Fuji for more natural photographs. Particularly flash portraits. The Lumix, however, seems to have a close macro range, if that matters.
I'd go with the Fuji if that's where you're looking. Again, your mileage may vary. Both are highly rated here. So either way, I don't think you'll regret it. It may come down to heading over to Best Buy/Circuit City and simply holding both models in your hand to see which one sits with you best.
If you want to change lenses, then a DSLR is the only way you can go. Recommend taking a look at the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
If you're up to the challenge, this may not be a big deal for you. It certainly has the power to get the job done. However, note that it doesn't have anti dust removal as a feature, so if you're going to be shooting pictures on ball fields, this may be problematic for you, but no more problematic than before this technology came into being.
I would recommend taking a look at the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which not only has many comparible features, but also comes with Image Stabilization and the anti dust removal (using low grade sound waves to vibrate the dust off the lens). Also, if you're going to be shooting distance shots from the sidelines, the ability to rely on image stabilization is a plus to combat camera shake.
One thing the D80 does have going for it is the Nikon F mount, which allows you to use just about any Nikon/Nikkor lens. And there's some pretty good ones out there.
However, Nikon lenses translate to expensive. So if you're on a budget, you'll probably want to go with an all in one solution to start. I would recommend the 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF Zoom-Nikkor. It has a decent focal range and at f 3.5, is fairly descent in speed.
Also, you may want to swing by Imaging Resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP... ) and compare the two. Input both models and you'll see examples of similar shots taken with both. This will give you a good idea of their performance as well.
Since you are attempting to shoot 'squares', you can only utilize part of the 24x36mm frame--i.e., your 24x36 frame now becomes a 24x24mm frame. Another factor I think would be distortion on the edges of wide-angle lenses. How accurate do the photos need to be? A zoom lens set in the neighborhood of 33mm will need to be approximately the same distance FROM the object as is visible in a 24x24mm square photo (w/edges cropped).
In other words, your lens with a medium wide-angle setting (33mm) would need to be about 2 miles above the earth to take a photo of four square miles (the two-mile square).
I'm afraid a photo with an extreme-wide angle lens would be unsuitable, due to the distortion.
Why not just shoot smaller spaces? Why 4 square miles? Just buy an extra mem card or two and take more photos.
:)
Thank you.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
It just depends on what you're looking to do with it. But if you're planning on getting deeper into photography, then the XTi is an ideal choice.
I like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi for a good first DSLR. Nice 20(something)-220 zoom.
However, if you want an all in one prosumer solution, I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
After doing a little research I found that the Canon 400D and Nikon D40x were the best rated DSLRs in my budget. Both seem to have their pros and cons.
I don't know if I should decide on one of the two or maybe wait to see if something else in my price range comes out.
All the Canon sensors in the DSLR models are excellent, primarily for low noise and color saturation.
Now to be fair to Nikon, I owned a D70s as well which was most excellent, but I lean towards Canon for a variety of reasons.
Image quality is my most important reason, as well as customer service. All dealings with Canon on a repair level have been favorable.
In both cameras, the standard kit lenses (to me) are sub-standard (as is expected in a sub 1K camera package). In either case I recommend upgrading the lens to something in the tele-zoom 28mm-75mm range.
One of the other reasons I like Canon is the optional battery grip, which allows the use of 2 batteries, plus it offers a little more meat to hang on to (if you have bigger hands like I do).
Another cool thing about the Rebel 400 (if you are a clutz like me) is you can get a product called Camera Armor (a durable rubberized skin for the camera). This prevents the nicks and dings from everyday use and also protects the LCD screen.
Here's a link to the skin
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/...
Hope this helps.
I'm definetly going for the Canon.
I love the idea of the Camera Armor and will most likely buy the body only and the lenses you suggested.
Honestly I think they're about equal in terms of beginner-friendliness. And also in terms of quality. I'd say you should go for whichever you can find for a better price, unless of course you have a big pre-existing supply of Canon or Nikon lenses.
Hope this helps!
thanks a lot ......but i understoot there is a special problem with the nikon.....with th lenses...i don't know much so that's why i-m asking......i like best nikon !!!!it's a better price ....in fact much better but i don't want to care about the prices.....i want to know witch is the best in the begining.....after a while maybe i'll change it but will be in the next 4-5 years from now......
so please tell me.....is the canon more suitable?.....
thanks.........
The only lens problem I can think of is that the D40 is picky about which lenses it will autofocus with. As the Digital Camera Resource Page (DCRP) review put it: "While the D40 can use almost any Nikon F-mount lens, it will only support autofocus on AF-S and AF-I lenses, of which are there are about sixteen at this point."
That said, sixteen lenses is a lot, more than most any dSLR user will ever use, and if you're not worried about money then you probably won't mind buying them new or slightly used.
Canon dSLRs have a much wider range of older lenses to choose from, and these may be cheaper to get in the long run.
But like I said before, there's honestly not much difference between the two in terms of usability for a SLR novice.
Good luck!
But the good news is that according to this site ( bobatkins.com/photography/r... ), an M42x1-Canon EOS adapter with electronic focus confirmation will allow you to keep full autofocus. Worth looking into.
Loretta
That price is not the norm for this camera but quite a stretch. In this tight margin day electronics world, I have high doubts this is legitimate and a genuine U.S. product. I'm sure there's a catch somewhere.
I would research fully before committing to such a purchase, and remember.. In this world, you do get what you pay for.
card when the item is shipped This tactic simply means the store does not
have your item in stock and, you can be sure, they don't know when they
will receive their shipment of the item you want, especially if the item is in
high demand. I ordered a Nikon d80 and a Canon EOS 350D from www.best
pricecameras.com and after 3 months of not receiving a product, I had to cancel the order. If you order from this company or any other company, be sure the
product is IN STOCK and not on back order, unless it is a company you have
done business with, in the past, that has a satisfactory consumer track record.
Also, check out the company in question through www.badbusinessbureau.com.
I hope this helps. Good Luck!
sorry for the long expplanation.. thank u...
No need to apologize, it can be very confusing trying to figure out which camera to buy.
I don't have personal experience with either of these cameras, but one way to get a good idea of the kind of image quality each can produce is to go to www.flickr.com and sort the available images by camera model. You can go here ( flickr.com/cameras/ ) to do this.
Honestly, in terms of specifications, these cameras are very evenly matches. As for lenses, new Canon lenses might be difficult to get in your country, but older ones should be pretty easy to come by (relatively speaking) anywhere in the world. Canon dSLRs can mount almost all older Canon lenses (though some require an adapter ring and not all have Autofocus ability). Nikon should be a similar situation, as their reverse compatibility is also quite good.
Hope this helps!
Canon Xti ( amazon.com/gp/richpub/syltg... )
Amazon ( amazon.com/gp/richpub/syltg... ) but I found it very helpful for picking the proper lenses and accessories.
More info, please.
I suggest you re-ask this as a new question, to get it back on the 'new' list. Include as much data as possible---EG are you having this printed at a commercial enterprise, or do you have your very own poster-sized printer yourself? Photoshop 4.0? etc.
When using Photoshop, (regardless of which version-I'm using CS3 Extended but have used every version since 5, which was about 12 years ago and the dialog box is basically the same), it's very easy to change the dpi of the image you're uploading. After pulling the shot into Photoshop, go to 'Image' then 'Image Size...'. In this dialog box, you can change the dpi of the shot.
In the 'Document Size' part of the dialog box, you'll see where it says your shot is 72 dpi. Simply highlight the 72 and type in 300. Hit the 'Enter' key and voila! You have a large picture.
The photo will pixilate if taken at a smaller resolution with your camera, so if blowing up your shots is what you plan to do, be sure to have your camera ready to shoot either Large JPG or RAW. RAW images contain the most information within the shot as taken, so you have a better chance of a larger print if it's been shot in RAW format.
Hope this helps!
I'm not sure what you mean by a "twin pack." Can you give me a link to the product you're talking about so I can help you better?
Thanks!
If I were a beginner I'd do this: Buy the XTi body only and then buy the 28-135 IS lens. This translates into 45mm-216mm on the XTi and I think that's a pretty usable focal range. The lens is very good quality and not terribly expensive. If you can fit the body-only price along with the 28-135MM IS price into your budget, I think that combo would make you very happy. The twin pack lenses do NOT have IS and IS is very important. If you're a beginner, even more so! Until you learn how to hold a camera steady and get your technique solid, having that IS there to steady the camera will translate into better results for you from the beginning.
You just don't want to start out with ho-hum lenses because they mask the true ability of this camera.
BTW, get the black camera. The silver XTi looks like a toy but the black one looks far more like a camera that means business.
The only more professional camera that would be worth the upgrade from that one would be the EOS series, like this one: dpreview.com/reviews/canone...
Hope that helps. Need to get rid of your camera? :o)
Because group photos feature prominently in the weddings, you should be using a wide angle zoom, something like Tamron 28-75mm lens will be a great help if you don't already own a similar Canon lens.
A Canon 28-135mm would give you a little more zoom but if 1 lb lens weight is not a problem, I would go for the 28-200mm zoom, because this will let you stand a little further and still get the picture without blocking the guests' view.
However, note that powerful zoom may encourage you to stay too far away from your subject and your flash may not be effective.
1. The lens you choose. Throw away the kit lens, or keep it as an emergency backup or sell it on ebay. The kit lens does not do this camera justice.
2. Your ability to size up a scene and determine proper exposure. Like almost all DSLRs the metering exposes for 18% gray in a scene and if you have a bright scene, it's going to underexpose that scene and your subject(s) will be dark so for bright scenes bump up the exposure compensation as much as +1 stop. Same for dark scenes, you may need to bring exposure down as much as -1 stop. Stop shooting in full auto mode - this is a recipe for getting the picture wrong more often than not. Use Av mode most of the time and adjust your aperature according to the scene and effects you wish to create.
3. Don't judge the camera by .JPG files it creates. Convert the RAW files using any new raw converter and your pictures will be nicer than just what you see in the camera JPG files.
4. Your abilities as a photographer. Experience tells you how to take a shot and tells you when you can get a shot in a single exposure. Remember that scenes with a lot of mixtures between bright and dark objects may be too much for the camera (not enough dynamic range).
The camera in general takes superb pictures. It's a DSLR of high quality with one of the best sensors you can get in a camera. The noise in the higher ISO pictures is relatively low and even when it isn't, you can use noise-reduction software to negate the noise. The noise levels are far lower than even the very best point and shoot camera.
I have taken some very sharp test pictures with this camera using a good lens (Canon 85mm 1.2L). I even took a few decent pictures with the kit lens (but I know the handful of settings that one can use with the kit lens to get good pictures, most of the settings you will use will result in soft pictures with this lens). That being said, the kit lens is going on the shelf to never be used except for a case where no other lens is available.
Put a Canon 17-85mm IS or 28-135mm IS lens (each of which are not terribly expensive) and you will have a very good camera that can take shots approaching professional quality. In fact a really good photographer would have no trouble taking professional pictures with this camera.
Another thing you can try first is 1) reset the camera back to it's factory defaults. This is a fairly easy procedure which involves either going into your setup menu and choosing "reset," or, removing the batteries for a few minutes. After which, you should have the camera reset to factory default settings.
Then go to Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will close out the question. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
Also create a contrasting backdrop which will create "negative space" and direct the viewer's eye to the piece and not the surroundings. You'll also want to invest in a good solid tripod with a fluid head.
Camera wise, what's your' budget? Ideally, since this is for your portfolio, a good digital SLR like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will yield you spectacular results.
If spending over $1000 makes you balk, there's a good midrange camera like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a mode is perfect for the kind of photography you're shooting.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.
If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
depending on your budget either go for the new fz8 or the fz7 which is older but is now
available at very good prices
reasons: 1. great lens 2. great auto focus with spot metering which is very useful for sculptures
here is an example of a photo taken with panasonic fz7
flickr.com/photos/markbridg...
For the beginner, I'd recommend the XTi. You can start on auto and then grow into the more manual features. Then,when you've reached the intermediate/advanced level, you can upgrade to the 40D or whatever is next and then you'll have one hell of a backup camera in the XTi. And you won't have to reinvest in lenses.
Through tons of research, I've limited my choices to the Nikon D40, Nikon D40X, and the Canon Rebel XTi. Which camera is a good learning tool that will also last for several years? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
As it is, being only $150 cheaper, the D40 won't stand the test of time like the D40X or XTi. It's a great camera in its own right (awesome, actually), but the D40X is that much better. However, the D40 would be a good starting camera, and you can use all the lenses you get for it in the meantime on your next Nikon camera. So the only investment loss would be the $400+ camera body.
For my preference, I love the Rebel XTi (EOS 400D). It's such an amazing camera, the picture quality is superb (as good or better than any other 10MP on the market), the user interface makes sense (with dedicated buttons for features you use a lot), the obligatory RAW mode, fast performance.... and best of all, a TON of lenses and accessories you can add as you build up. And this camera should last you for as long as it physically lasts.
I would buy your camera without the kit. Just get the body and buy a great lens to start out with. Here are a couple I'd strongly suggest:
1.) amazon.com/Sigma-28mm-Asphe... Low "zoom" range, but is great specifically for low-light. Bright F1.8 aperture
Another must cheaper option is amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-C... which has a 50mm fixed zoom and so is restrictive. But it's great for low-light and is a lens you won't beat yourself up over if you decide you want to get another lens.
2.) amazon.com/Canon-70-300mm-4... Superzoom lens that starts at a comparable 105mm film zoom, but goes out to about 13x zoom. This is a lens you would definitely want to wait on getting to make sure you love photography!
3.) amazon.com/Canon-17-85mm-4-... Versatile, except in low-light. Great lens, sharp pictures, and good for all types of shots. Again, a F4+ aperture will make this lens slower than other lenses, in low-light with better aperture range. Again, if you want to just opt with the kit lens (which really only costs you $90), you can upgrade to other lenses when you're completely sure on what you're looking for.
But without knowing what lens you're going to want, the kit with starter lens may be the best choice for you right now.
The only thing I can think of as to why your friend's having problems with her Rebel is if she has the kit lens. With dSLRs, you have a ton of options in not only manual controls, but also the lenses as well. The kit lens of the Rebel is disappointing. If she has the F/3.5-5.6 18-55mm lens, she may indeed be running into darkness issues. See, in lower light situation, aperture is everything (yes, there are other options, but I'm just being general). Indoor shots are best with F/1.8, or as close to that as possible. When you get into the F3.5 aperture range, using zoom without a flash is a bad idea, and even without zoom, just the light having to filter into the lens may cause dark pictures if the lighting is bad enough.
This is all assuming you're not using flash. With flash, you should have no problems at all. But if you're going to be shooting a lot of low-light pictures without a flash (concerts, birthdays, wedding, etc), you'll want a really nice low-light lens.
If you can, suggest to your friend to play around with the ISO settings. The Rebel should have no problems making acceptable 4x6" prints at ISO800. If she's running into dark backgrounds and has the kit lens, setting the ISO higher will give a stronger sensitivity to light and, hence, lighten up her picture. Even better would be to increase the ISO a little while keeping the shutter open the same length. If there wasn't blur in the original picture, increasing ISO (which usually then decreases shutter length) while keeping shutter length the same should really improve the picture.
I think your friend is just not familiar with her camera yet. It's very intimidating, all the options available!
for $999.97:
one EOS Rebel xti 10.1 mp
one 18-55mm zoom lens
one 75-300mm zoom lens
one 430EX flash
This seems like a really great deal to me, and money is indeed an issue..however I don't want to forfeit quality and would rather wait if thats the case. Thoughts? Help please!
However, for under a thousand dollars, getting two lenses and a flash it hard to pass up. And once you outgrow the XTi, you can always invest in the 40D body and still use your lenses.
I think I'd bite on it. It's a great camera. One thing you have to be leery of coming from BEST BUY though ... and that's their bait and switch ( abcnews.go.com/Business/Ind... ) history. It would give me pause.
Lastly, make sure you buy a 1A Skylight filter for both lenses. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
Another reason is the "grey market" which is where its the same product brought to the US market through a third party. Because it cuts out the middle man (Canon USA) you end up saving money, but you lack the security of having the Canon USA warranty. Its a gamble and warranties are important to most, however sometimes grey marked items have a "source" warranty, which is when supplier warranties the item instead of Canon USA.
My best advice is to use an established seller like B & H photo or Ive found that amazon.com is a great seller. Good luck and remember to keep your eyes peeled.
If the lenses work with your EOS Rebel X, then they will work with the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I have the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and I just love it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I have a 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and its a great camera. For the type of photos you're taking, I would bring a long telephoto, at least 300mm or more. You'll probably want a faster lens too (wider aperture). Something like the Sigma 50-500mm f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM Autofocus Lens for Canon EOS
( amazon.com/Normal-Telephoto... ) might be ok, but might not have a wide enough aperture. You would need a monopod or tripod to reduce camera shake. If you want a faster lens, you can try the Canon fixed 400mm f/2.8 lens ( amazon.com/Canon-400mm-Supe... ), but that can run over $6K. Good luck, and have a safe trip.
Andrew
Because there is a lot of sun in Africa, you could lower the shutter speed and up the iso a bit so that your shutter is open less and that lowers the chance of blurring in your zoom shots.
I would agree with Josh on this. The IS is well worth the money for the longer lenses. If you don't want to spend the money on a longer lens, you can also get a teleconverter ( amazon.com/Kenko-MC-4-Telec... ). You can double your effective lens length with one of these. I would recommend at least a monopod ( amazon.com/Kodak-68-Anywher... ) with that though.
Andrew
The image stabilization is good for low light situations and using the longer lens function to avoid camera shake issues. A monopod or tripod will also suffice if you go with the regular auto-focus lens. At the faster shutter speeds, this won't be an issue. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Both of these cameras are superb for blowing up photos. The 40D does have a faster frame rate and is great for ultra professional shots. Saying that, I use the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and love it. I am probably going to end up with an upgrade to the 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (or some version of it), at some point, but the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is working great for now. If you feel you need the faster capabilities, I would go with the more expensive camera, but with nature shots and family photos, the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be just fine. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks. I appreciate your help. Any thoughts on image stabilizer lenses versus standard lenses?
I would say that the IS function is worth it in the longer lenses. It will help avoid camera shake when at the 200, 300, and higher ranges and allow you to shoot with a longer shutter opening. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I've found the Tamron 18-200mm lens ( amazon.com/Tamron-Autofocus... ) for EOS cameras to be a great all round lens. I use it for weddings, events, and artistic photography.
Andrew
Thanks.
Kathleen
I'm glad I was able to reaffirm your decision. I've found the lens to work great with my XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
gallery.blackdoorphotos.com/
Your current lenses should transger to the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) just fine. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew
I've shot sports with both the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They work great for sports photography. The thing you'll need to get is a "fast" lens (one with f/2.8 or less and with good zoom). While the lens is expensive, you'll need it with either camera body when you start to work in lower light situations or indoors. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Although the minimal shutter speed of Rebels is 1/4000 (30D has 1/8000), I think Rebels are fast enough even when shooting sports (usually 1/2000 is fast enought to "freeze" the motion). More important would be a fast (telephoto) lens.
Michal
But if you really want the drivers, you can download them here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). You can also contact Canon there to purchase the CD again should you prefer.
Any LCD is going to be hard to see in sunlight. I personally like to have a camera with a viewfinder (digital or optical) instead. If you like the canon ELPH line, you might try the Canon SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) instead. It actually has slightly more optical zoom (4x vs 3.8x), manual exposure control, and it costs about $50 less. Personally, I would go with the SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) when choosing between the two. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks again!
-Dany :)
I wanted to add to Andrew's reply that the LCD on the 850 is slightly smaller (2.5" vs. 3.0", I believe) because the 850 makes room for that viewfinder. But as Andrew also pointed out, it will be a difficult go w/o a viewfinder if you are taking pics in the sun. About 3 mos. ago, I was also deliberating between the 850 and the 870. The 850 won out in the end! Good luck on your camera search!
And Andrew ... great pics on your site, BTW. Were you using the 850 for those pics??
Amy
You're more than welcome on the advice on the SD 850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Amy,
Thanks for the assist on the recommendation. As for my site, I took those pictures with a variety of cameras. It really depends on which you look at. Most of them were taken with either the Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Some were taken with the Canon S2 IS and the SD230 as well.
Andrew
blackdoorphotos.deviantart....
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
Best wishes, Larry
If you feel one of the reply's has sufficiently answered your question, please feel free to mark it as the best answer. If not, please let us know what else you would like to know so we can better answer your inquiries. Thanks again for using Digital Camera Headquarters.
Andrew
Larry
Jonathan
For SLR 35mm photographers this is the only way to take pictures.
Do you have this camera or the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )? The XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) was not released until summer of 2006. Either way, it sounds like you have an internal wiring issue with your camera. I would recommend you contact Canon repair ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) services or find a local repair provider ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Because you purchased your camera two years ago, your warranty ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) will not cover it anymore; it is only good for 1 year. Good luck.
Andrew
If you look through the manual ( gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/090000... ), on page 100 it states the reduction lamp will light by pushing the shutter button half way before completing your photo. This may be why your lamp is lighting with your photos. Try pushing completely instead of halfway first. It may work better for you. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
John
I have both a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and a XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and neither of them do this. The only other explanation I have for this is a defective product. I would call Canon ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) for warranty support on this. I'm sure your camera is still under warranty. Good luck.
Andrew
Andrew said it right earlier, push the shutter fully and you won't get the strobing effect prior to the shot. The strobbing is so the camera can focus correctly while in auto mode. You may get a single burst flash prior to the full flash when the shutter opens and closes. The strobbing is used for red eye as well as focusing!! Good Luck.....I hope that this helps you!!
Thanks again,
John
No worries on picking and choosing. I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any further issues or questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I would agree with James on this. I love my XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), but have friends that love their Nikons. It really depends on if you have lenses already. That type of savings will really make a good determination what to buy. Good luck.
Andrew
I wouldn't think that it would. Is there any way you can talk to other people who have purchased from the shop? That might make you feel more comfortable purchasing there.
Andrew
You have to make sure the mount type is correct. This camera accepts the following:
Compatible Lenses*: Nikon F mount with AF coupling and AF contacts Type G or D AF Nikkor:
1) AF-S, AF-I: All functions supported;
2) Other Type G or D AF Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus
3) PC Micro-Nikkor 85mm f/2.8D: Can only be used in mode M; all other functions supported except autofocus
4) Other AF Nikkor*¹/AI-P Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus and 3D Color Matrix Metering II
5) Non-CPU: Can be used in mode M, but exposure meter does not function; electronic range finder can be used if maximum aperture is f/5.6 or faster
6) IX Nikkor lenses cannot be used
*¹ Excluding lenses for F3AF
I hope this helps.
Andrew
Thanks James I am So honoured with all your time to provide me with great Info
Its not a problem at all. Please come back with any other questions or issues. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I am not entairly satisfied with its performance. shoot in day time it is very good but when shot in low light there is a orangish colour dominating all over, I try to shoot in scene selection but since the shutter speed is too slow i need a tripod to get a right photo. Its not always possible to carry a tripod with a small cam right? Is there any settings i can try to rectify it. One more thing is i try to do a experimenet with a canon n sony cam shooting in same light same settings but canon is 6 mega only where my sony is 8.1 but after i put in computer n i zoom in canon is so sharp but sony is like drawn picture, Why is it so?
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed.
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be an answer as well.
Any way I am going to Get Dx40 soon, so lets explore nikon this time ha ha
Ther relation to shutter speed and fstop is simple. The shutter speed governs the amount of time that the CCD is exposed to the light image while the f stop governs how much of that light gets in. Think of it as a door. Shutter speed would govern how long you leave the door open while the fstop governs how wide the door opens.
If you want to do work from home, you can actually go through one of the courses from the New York Institute of Photography ( nyip.com ). They have a pretty all inclusive program of instruction.
Andrew
NYIP is actually a program you can work from home on. They mail you the materials.
As for your lenses, what kind of budget are you working with? The Nikon lenses are specifically manufactured for your camera, but you can get other lenses that will work (Tamron, Sigma).
Andrew
I'm all for getting practical education ... I minored in it myself and I'd never substitute it. But if you don't have the time or the budget to enroll in an expensive course, podcasts can be a good substitute.
how is things going on? Sorry being busy in my things recently. Got so many things to ask and desperately need your help
From my friend i have got sigma 100-300 AF lenses. He used this one for Nikon F50, But when i mount on my DX40 the auto function is not working. How i can make it work?
Depending on the lens, it may not have the correct AF couplings to work with the DX40. You are probably stuck in manual focus for that camera and lens combination.
Andrew
The wide angle lens is great for some artsy shots while the macro lens is very good for extreme close up photos used in product sales. If you want to get into that type of photography, these are good lenses to have in your arsenal.
Andrew
Lastly, buy a 1A Skylight filter for both. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
Been busy shooting all kind of stuff recently, i really love my camera and i feel like i have made a good choice
Thanks guys for all ur help
something i wanna share with you I recently bought nikon sb 22s Flash but it seems like not working properly.
Do u think i made a mistake buying this or i dont know how to do it?
One thing you'll want to check are that the battery terminals are clean. Use a pencil eraser and rub it to get any dirt or corrosion off. Then, make sure you're using powerful enough batteries. I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities they can't die in packaging) put out alot of energy.
And, even though you think you've put in fresh batteries, underpowered batteries are just as bad. At the very least, make sure you are using Alkalines. Even better, batteries with a higher mAh - like around 2500mAh would satisfy the higher power requirements of your camera equipment.
I choose P mode then i try to shoot even i on my flash, flash ready light is lit, still the camera showing no enough lighting use flash, seems like camera not reading the flash but when i take the shot camera behaving in poor lighting mode i.e slow shutter and big app even though the flash actually fire.
I call up local nikon service centre actually, they sat sb22 is not compitable to DX. Can use manuall mode but TTL mode cant use. Only SB600 and SB800 are compitable. Hmmm its wasted, any way thanks for ur advice
You can still set your camera to manual mode to get the flash to work. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Andrew
I just read this whole thread becauseI am a bit of a novice with photagraphy but am choosing between a Nikon or Canon. Y'alls advice to Steven has been a big help to me!
THANKS!
Denise
Yes really those advices work out for me very well
I choose nikon and i am happy with my camera
Especially those examples provided when i am choosing diff kinds of modes in camera itself are really helpful for a novice like me
But what i can say is before u choose the camera just decide what kind of photography you are interested and get camera according to ur need
Good luck
But I am always the one at a party with a camera, or at the work function or just when I go for a drive or walk. I take pictures of everything! I have thousands and thousands of saved files. Most of which I will never use, but some are great for framing in my house, or for gifts to friends.
So - here's where I am torn between the two. I'm not sure which one would be more versatile for me to use. Of course I will start getting lenses, but I plan to just start with the basic lense kit.
Any more advice for me Andrew or James - or Steve??
Thanks
Denise
As for basic lens, I wouldn't waste your time with a 50mm lens. It has it's uses, but they are extremely limited. Go for a kit that has a good wide-portait zoom and then something around 75-200mm. Why not a 28-200 lens? By and large, they tend to be slower which limits not only your speed, but also the ability to grab some great shots by manipulating the aperture settings. Get as fast a lens as you can afford.
You can get great outdoor pics with this camera. I used to have the S2 IS, and took some great outdoor photos with it (see the links below). While I now use a Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), I would still recommend this style of camera to the casual photographer that wants a little more power in their shots, and it will definitely out-perform your Mavica FD95 in picture quality. While the Rebel line is a great set of cameras, you have to have some budget built up for the lenses you'll want to get.
One thing to note though, the lens on your Mavica was a 6-60mm optical lens, while the S5's ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 36-432. They are 10x and 12x respectfully, but you have to look at the widest angle of the lens to calculate the maximum focal length (60 is 10 times greater than 6 and 432 is 12 times 36).
I hope this has helped. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
But for me, that extra few hundred dollars can go towards a better lens. A much better benefit than live preview.
I've found I like the viewfinder better than a screen many times, especially bright situations. I agree with James' recommendation to save your money and buy a better lens. The XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
) is a great camera on its own.
Andrew
For Nikon, there's the Nikon D40X ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the D80. For Canon, you're looking at the entry level Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the new XSi, the EOS 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or if money is no option, then you'd be looking at the EOS-1Ds Mark III.
Where you really want to think about tossing your money is in the glass. Better lenses make for better images, plain and simple. and if you're going into business, you want the best money can buy.
So let us know what your budget is and we can give you some ideas.
1. Camera was dropped.
2. Third party attachment.
3. Bad cf card.
4. Dirty contacts.
I love my Tamron 18-200mm lens. While it focuses a little slower than a Canon lens, the versatility of the focal length, and the value of the lens are two things that are hard to pass up (even though they do not have IS capabilities yet). Personally, I would go for it with the 18-250. Your older lenses will also work with this camera, so you have some good standard lenses already. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
For what you want to do, I would definitely go with a dSLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). There are a lot to choose from, so you have to look at your budget and take into account how much your extras are going to cost. As for a lens, if you just want to start out and get something thats is decently versatile, I would go for a Tamron Di II 18-250mm Asphyrical lens ( tamron.com/lenses/prod/1825... ). They are less expensive than the name brands and they make lenses that work with Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Pentax (not all 4 at once though). You should also take into account that you should get an extra battery or two as well as at least 2 memory cards and a good camera bag. If you're serious about your photography, I would also recommend picking up a tripod for steadier shots.
Andrew
That lens does not have vibration reduction, but it should still work fine. Between the two cameras above, there isn't a big difference between them that I can see. If they were my only choices, I would go with the less expensive D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). As for other brands, Nikon makes excellent cameras. I, personally, shoot with Canon cameras. It is just a preference in the user interface on my part though.
I would recommend going to a camera shop and holding a couple in your hands to see what you're comfortable with. I've found that a photographer will take better pictures the more comfortable they are with their equipment. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I'm glad we could help clear things up for you at least a bit. Please feel free to come back with more questions or issues.
Andrew
I own a Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and just love it. The 9 point AF isn't something I use a lot though. What I do like is the lighter feel of the camera (I carry it around a lot), and it's user interface.
Larger lenses will increase the weight of the camera significantly. The VR in the Nikon D80's ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) body also adds to the weight of the camera. If it's in your budget and you like the feel I would go with it.
Andrew
S4L #: SG1020F4CA | Mfr. #: 201101 Price: $ 439.95
It covers a superwide angle of view 102.4° to 63.8°
A pretty good ultra-wide for cropped sensors, especially for the price. Build quality is fantastic
Image quality " in the field " is really and surprisingly very good to excellent at any aperture -being that at f/8 is really outstanding - or focal length, across all the frame. This is what gave me the biggest surprise. This lens is really sharp. The distortions are well controled - it has the normal distortions for a 10-20 mm focal lens - being that at 20 mm .Colour rendition is very good . Flare control is amazing. I can shoot with the sun in front of me without getting any flare at all. I am impressed.
pbase.com/lightrules/uwatest
Jan 27, 2006. Tested here are the only two UWA lenses available in Canon mount (for APS-C sensors) that begin at 10mm (16mm FOV). Both are obviously popular choices that, by and far, receive high praises and excellent reviews. The 10-20 comes equipped with HSM and is a part of Sigma's "EX" pro-grade series; the 10-22 comes with Canon's USM and is not designated as an "L" pro-grade lens. There are a good number of crops to view in this test, so please take your time.
Quick comments:
*Sigma 10-20 $480, Canon 10-22 $690 [BH Pricing]. The Sigma is 70% the cost of the Canon (and includes an EX petal-type hood and EX black carry pouch).
*The Sigma renders a warmer tint (with the Canon being cooler); not a big deal, especially if shooting RAW.
*Under harsh lighting conditions (see Test3), the Canon fares better.
*The Canon tends to have slightly more "pop" out of the camera.
*Both yield solid center and edge resolution performance with the Sigma slightly better.
*The Canon has better flare-resistance characteristics.
*Distortion is present (especially at 10mm wide open) for both lenses but very acceptable being UWAs.
*CA is extremely well managed by both, with the Canon (arguably) being slightly better.
*Light fall-off is "acceptable" for both lenses at 10mm wide open; by f8 it's "negligible."
*The Sigma's AF is swift and silent (due to the HSM unit); it is also very accurate.
*The Canon's AF is "swifter" and also silent (due to its USM unit); it is also very accurate.
*The focus ring on the Canon is small, gritty, tight, and less refined than the Sigma (which is buttery smooth).
*While the Sigma is "only" 3 ounces heavier than the Canon, when each lens is "in hand" you can actually feel the difference. The Canon "feels" much lighter.
*Overall, these are 2 impressive UWA lenses with the Canon being IMO slightly better optically, though the build advantage goes to the Sigma. FWIW, I've reviewed countless full-frame captures of each lens both on screen (and printed out some comparison 11x14's), and by and far, it's EXTREMELY HARD to see any meaningful difference, save for the difference in color tone. If you shoot in RAW, it isn't an issue at all. Both lenses will satisfy as your UWA lens in your bag. And if you don't mind starting at 12mm, the Tokie is a VERY good one too.
*Note to D60/D30/10D owners that the Canon is an EFS mount and will NOT fit your body.
seaoptic.com/products/slr/n...
Notes: For your wide angle work with this Canon EOS camera we recommend this excellent Sigma 10-20mm 102 degree ultra wide lens over the Canon 10-22mm lens. A dedicated ultra wide angle lens for digital SLR cameras. It has a super wide coverage up to 102.4 degrees. Silent drive, compact and superb construction. The optics on this 'digital only' ultra wide lens are superb and especially considering for the bucks. An outstanding lens and in my view a superior lens to the Canon 10-22mm lens. Personally I own this outstanding lens, (with Nikon mount) and it works very well underwater. Includes Sigma lens case and petal type lens hood.
flickr.com/photos/86954076@...
Unless you're adamant about owning the same brand as your camera, ie: Canon, Nikon, etc, you will not go wrong with the Sigma.The build and image quality of the Sigma 10-20mm is just as acceptable as a super-wide lens with Nikon or Canon stamped on it. Just my opinion!! See sample images at above links.
I would love to drive a BMW740 I , I cannot afford it i have a toyota corolla which takes me "where i want to go with no problems".I mean not in style or luxury but i reach my destination on time and safe.
A process that was originally applied only to hardware, reverse-engineering is now applied to software, databases and even human DNA. Reverse-engineering is especially important with computer hardware and software.
Example of reverse-engineering involves San Jose-based Phoenix Technologies Ltd,Cyrix Corp. and Advanced Micro Devices Inc,
Few operating systems have been reverse-engineered. With their millions of lines of code—compared with the roughly 32KB of modern BIOSs—reverse-engineering them would be an expensive option.
To protect against charges of having simply (and illegally) copied IBM's BIOS, Phoenix reverse-engineered it using what's called a "clean room," or "Chinese wall," approach.
First, a team of engineers studied the IBM BIOS—about 8KB of code—and described everything it did as completely as possible without using or referencing any actual code.
Then Phoenix brought in a second team of programmers who had no prior knowledge of the IBM BIOS and had never seen its code. Working only from the first team's functional specifications, the second team wrote a new BIOS that operated as specified.
The resulting Phoenix BIOS was different from the IBM code, but for all intents and purposes, it operated identically. Using the clean-room approach, even if some sections of code did happen to be identical, there was no copyright infringement. Phoenix began selling its BIOS to companies that then used it to create the first IBM-compatible PCs.
Answer: A common misperception regarding reverse engineering is that it is used for the sake of stealing or copying someone else's work. Reverse engineering is not only used to figure out how something works, but also the ways in which it does not work.
Some examples of the different uses of reverse engineering include:
Understanding how a product works more comprehensively than by merely observing it
Investigating and correcting errors and limitations in existing programs
Studying the design principles of a product as part of an education in engineering
Making products and systems compatible so they can work together or share data
Evaluating one's own product to understand its limitations
Determining whether someone else has literally copied elements of one's own technology
Creating documentation for the operation of a product whose manufacturer is unresponsive to customer service requests
Transforming obsolete products into useful ones by adapting them to new systems and platforms
For a common man if and when he can afford to buy one and find the time to use it(working man 6 day job).Maybe on a sunday or a yearly vacation.I also feel that on the camera forums the camera companies have some of their own guys posting discussions and pictures favouring their respected companies.We were all amateurs at one time.As for online advise it depends on the source good examples cnet, fred miranda etc.
If sensors and camera lenses were perfect... you would need only one lens!
In a perfect world, you would leave the house with only a Canon 14 super-wide lens. You would worry only about camera position, secure in the knowledge that the 14mm lens was wide enough to capture the entire subject under 99% of conditions. Then if you wanted a picture of just a friend in the middle of the frame, you'd crop down to just the center and use that. The result would be the same as if you'd used a 100mm portrait lens.
photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe...
Canon is probably no worse or no better than any other camera as far as quality control goes... BUT... does that make it right? I have brought this very same subject up on the EOS mailing list, that I seem to see lots more problems from Canon cameras in the last couple of years than in years past. On this very list it seems to me there are lots of 40D issues, but also, I suppose it is a very small percentage of how many are sold. The same old argument comes up... well it is no better or worse than Nikon, Olympus, Pentax, etc, etc. Nothing made by man is ever going to be 100% perfect 100% of the time. Personally, I will NOT buy any newly introduced camera until it has been in production for about a year and had time to get all the bugs worked out, and even then things can still happen. I have never been one with my panties all in a wad having to have the "latest and greatest" .... "upgrade". I'm still using, quite successfully, my original 1Ds and D60. I will say neither of them has ever given me any problems.
Other options to improve your action performance are:
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
8. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
9. Faster lenses will also help. The 4stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
Thank you,
Paulie
Good Luck to you!
Denise
Thank you again, I think that is sound advice and I appreciate it very much. If I should decide to purchase the Nikon, I guess I should step up to the D60 or D80 Right.
Thanks again,
Paulie
Thanks again, I think that is sound advice and I appreciate it very much. If I should decide to purchase the Nikon, I guess I should step up to the Nikon D60 or the Nikon D80 right?
Thanks again,
Paulie
P.S. I'm not familiar with this site yet. I screwed up a couple of times, but i am hooked on It.
OK I think you have helped me greatly, your advice is what makes this a great site. You have helped a lot, and I hope it helped other people with the same advice.
Thank you,
Paulie
I used SLR cameras in my twenties. When I had children I went to a little Canon Coolpix which I liked because it was small. Now I am ready to purchase my first DSLR. I don't care about using any of my old pieces. (I have SLR Canons and Nikons). I am torn between the Nikon D80 or the new Canon Rebel Xsi. The kit lens for the Canon has gotten bad reviews all around and so that's a bit of a hindrance but I like the idea of Live View. Do you think the Live View is a hindrance to speed, etc? I think I would buy the Nikon D80 and some lenses except I am so used to having a live view screen now. I want to use the camera to take pics of my children for a yearly calendar, sports, etc. Additionally, I also like to take photos to use as a source for my oil painting. Would like to get a 50mm lens, wide angle and telephoto eventually. So much to get and it feels very overwhelming just in deciding between the D80 and the XSi. Thanks for any insight you can give.
I'm no pro at this but from everything I've read, both are very good cameras. I would suggest to you that you go to a good camera shop and handle both Cameras see which is most comfortable in your hands and try all the functions on each camera and determine which is best for you. As far as picture quality, I don't think the average user could tell the difference between the two. I know Canon has a very good 1.8- 50mm and a very expensive 1.4- 50.mm lens. The Nikon D80 will be stiff competition for The Canon XSI. As far as Live view being a hindrance to speed I'm not sure about that.
Like I said I'm new to all this, but I honestly feel that I'm trying to do the best I can to be of help.
I'm sure you will make the right decision.
Paulie
Thanks again for the information, I just printed it up and I will give it a try the first chance I have.
Thanks again, your making photography a lot more enjoyable and interesting for me.
Paulie
I do a lot of shooting at our zoo and find the FZ8 takes beautiful pictures outdoors. Is there anything you can suggest when shooting indoors with low light and flash prohibited. I'm new to this and need help.
Thank you,
Paul
I am going to print this up and give it a try. I know there's only so much you can do with the Fz8 as far as low light situations. I really do like this digital camera but I am also trying to decide on a Nikon D40 or a Canon XTI. I have a canon Rebel XS film camera with canon lenses a 22-55mm, 28-90mm, 35-80 and a sigma 70-210 all 4-5.6 and excellent condition. I just am not sure what quality pictures I would get with those lenses and the Digital Canon XTI. Or maybe I should just start all over with the Nikon D40 with their kit lens and their 55-200 VR lens. I'm new to this and need all the help I can get.
Again, Thank you for your information. If you could give me your thoughts on this I would really appreciate it.
Need your help,
Paulie
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
If you had any additional questions or the answer wasn't sufficient enough, just let me know.
Canon DSLR Stablization is in the lens and not the body for Canon XTI and XIS. I would say for the Canon 85 MM/1.8 lens stablization would be an asset but not totally necessary. A Lens like 18-200mm or 70-300mm would be more important to have stablization lenses.
Hope this helps,
Paulie
I have four canon lenses from my Canon Rebel XS film camera. They are, EF 22-55mm1:4-5.6 II USM, EF 28-90 mm, 1:4-5.6 II, EF 35-80mm 1:4-5.6 II and a sigma 70-210mm UC Zoom.
I am planning to buy a Canon Rebel XTI, I know the lenses will work. I am just unsure if the quality of the photos with them. Could someone give me advice.
Thank you,
Paulie
I don't suspect that you will have any issues with the quality. I shoot with a Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and love the quality through my Canon and Tamron lenses. Canon has taken the time to make sure that they maintain their quality with the move towards digital SLR's.
Andrew
Thanks again,
Paulie
No problem. Please come back with any other issues or questions.
Andrew
followup is that a problem with operating the camera?
Thanks for the help.
Because the G is an EOS camera, your lenses should transfer without a problem. Both cameras use the EF lens mount.
Andrew
1. Select [Format].
* Select the <tools> tab.
* Press the <^,v> keys to select [Format], then press <SET>.
* A confirmation dialog will appear.
2. Format the CF card.
* Press the < <,> > keys to select [OK], then press <SET>.
* The CF card will be formatted (initialized).
* When the CF card formatting is completed, the menu will reappear.
* A non-Canon CF card or a CF card formatted with another camera or personal computer might not work with the camera. In such a case, format the CF card with the camera first. Then it might work with the camera.
* The CF card s capacity displayed on the formatting screen may be lower than the capacity indicated on the card.
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
I have a separate question on the 400D. Whilst on holiday I was looking for a video function on the camera and playing around with the buttons (bad mistake) and accidentally came across the formatting option. I pressed ok (stupidly thinking that I could go into a different 'format' as in a video rather than a photo), and it presumably formatted my CF card as all the photos disappeared. I had taken loads and loads and photos with this CF card, and all of a sudden they disapperared and was reduced to something like 32M. As I was still on holiday I obviously hadn't backed any of these photos up. Have I lost them forever?! The photos on that CF card were the best ones of my 2-week holiday HELP!!!!!!
I'm not sure the type of camera it was other than it being a canon (d?) 8 megapixel w/lense.
I would like to able to take fast action shots, low lit or candle lit weddings, and far distance landscape shots. I'm not sure of the settings for each and what camera and lense is recommended. Please help
Thanks,
Dee
The Canon XSi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) listed above would be a fantastic fit. I've shot a few weddings ( blackdoorphotos.com/wedding... ) using a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I would recommend getting yourself an external flash like the Speedlite 430EX ( amazon.com/Canon-430EX-Spee... ) and a fast, telephoto lens like a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 ( amazon.com/Tamron-AF17-50mm... ). You might want to get a longer lens as well (up to 200mm) to utilize a shorter depth of field and get more artistic shots.
If you do shoot weddings, make sure you pack plenty of batteries and extra memory cards. I would suggest taking the photos at the largest size, with the highest resolution to give you the largest print sizes you can get. This also will aide if you have to do any cropping later for different print sizes.
Any of the cameras listed above will also work great for the artistic shots you want to get. They have full manual control for maximum flexibility. I would also recommend taking a course in photography at your local community college or even a more inclusive correspondence course. I've sharpend my skills through the New York Institute of Photography ( nyip.com )'s Professional Photography program. It really helped me learn alot more about the ins and outs of my camera and photography in general.
Hopefully my rambling has helped you out today. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
Press this button and the flash will pop up.
In addition to the above excellent suggestions regarding getting the exposure right and using fill flash, you can also post-process the picture in your computer and accomplish something similar to the fill flash using Picasa3 (free software from Google).
Even if you are not ready to experiment too much yet you can shoot on P (programmed) where you can still adjust shutter and/or apperture while allowing the camera to keep you on the right track. In all these modes you can pop the flash up by pushing the lighting flash button. Good luck and for goodness sake start to explore your delightful camera.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon...
Scroll down to the paragraph below the list of cameras under the heading Compatibility.
To show the date, copy the pictures to the computer and right click on the picture you are interested in.
In the window that follows, clicking ' Properties ' will reveal the EXIF date, including the date and other information.
To print the date on the pictures, you will need a ' Time Stamp ' software such as <a href="sharewareconnection.com/vis... one</a>
If you are still interested in using the FD lens, you will have to hunt for the FD-EOS converter.
A good place to start will be <a href="mir.com.my/rb/photography/c... this site </a>
To let the camera to change the ISO, you need to set the ISO to Auto.
You can try to use P mode (is full auto also, but you can modify ISO settings). Auto ISO, on Canon, keep iso settings to 400 on 400D and 40D without any custom function modifications. Check your manual to see what custom function must be activated to use 100-400 ISO on Auto ISO setting.
Thank you again.
Regards,
Sean
Regards,
Sean
The lens are new ? If they are new, try clean the bayonet (camera mount) contacts with isopropyl alcohol, but be careful not to affect the mirror or any other part (use a clean cotton tissue with isopropyl alcohol). You can do this also to the lenses, being careful not to affect anti reflection treatment.
In other words, the lens is fully compatible with your rebel xti, so you shouldn't have any problems at all in normal circumstances.
With inbuilt Flash it takes only ~200photos.
I want top replace battery with more mAH that compatibles with my 400D camera
Press the 'menu' button, then the up button above the 'OK' as many times as needed, until you see the top folders are highlighted.
Press the right button near the 'OK' until you see the last folder highlighted. You will know this is highlighted when you see the first menu option that says 'Language'. The 3rd one down from that says 'Clear Settings'.
Press the down button under the 'OK' until 'Clear Settings' is highlighted, then press the 'OK' button.
Scroll up to your choice and press 'OK' to reset your Canon 400D back to default factory settings.
Your battery may be losing capacity. Over time, LiOn batteries do begin to lose capacity and after awhile, you may run into issues. Try a new battery. Absent that, a repair may be in your future.