Canon EOS 30D
- 5.0 out of 5
- 5.0 out of 5
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Editors' Comments
The Canon EOS 30D expands upon the ever-popular 20D with some fantastic new features. The camera's body has been redesigned into a smoother, sportier form, much like the luxurious 5D. Canon's also tossed in a large, 2.5 inch LCD monitor for taking a better look at those 8.2 megapixel images. For the impatient, a direct print button has been added to the back, and ISO speed is displayed in the viewfinder as it is changed. A 100,000 shot shutter cycle offers robust durability and the camera is capable of simultaneous RAW and JPEG image recording. The 30D is a step up, and will certainly be the digital SLR of choice in the coming year.
Specifications
- 8.2 megapixel CMOS sensor
- DIGIC II image processor
- auto and manual focus
- auto and manual exposure
- RAW and JPEG file formats (with simultaneous format capture)
- ISO 100-3200
- focal-plane shutter
- 2.5 inch LCD
- lithium ion battery
- Compact Flash storage (not included)
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Canon EOS 30D Reviews
- 4.88118811881188 out of 5
Canon EOS 30D Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 4.0 out of 5
I have trouble with action photos, even on the action setting. Everything is especially blurry without the flash- but sometimes, you just dont want that harsh light, you know? So im still working with it, and it does wonderfully for outdoor still shots. Its a little heavy but worth it. i recommend this camera to anyone starting out on SLRs because its easy to use right out of the box. However, if you want to get professional with it, have a expert teach you how to use it to the best of its abilities so you can get your money's worth out of it.
- 5.0 out of 5
i own a 10D and a 1Ds, the 10 for 3 years now. i was looking for a faster processor and a faster auto focus as well as more pixels and a quicker start up. the 30 is on the money, lierally for meeting my needs and budget. i played with buying the 5D but finances weren't there for a 10D upgrade alone. so i got the 30D and a 70-200 2.8 eos ef-l instead. i have put it through my paces for shooting. not a lot to learn over the 10D - wonderful. Just a faster, more durable, larger imaged DSLR. this week i print on my i9900.
- 5.0 out of 5
Have used camera for approx 10 months. It is the greatest! Pictures are unbelievable. Use now for personal use but expect to use professionally when I retire soon. Features are great and allow flexability of auto and creative modes. A must camera for the serious photographer.
- 5.0 out of 5
Since purchasing this camera, It has been the best camera I have ever owned. I use canon 28-135 w/stabilizer, 60mm Macro made for the 1.6 format.,17-40 mm f4/L lens and the 70-200 MM f2.8 L,with Stabliz er.
All lenses have produced excellent quality pictures and the adjustments on the camera work beautiful. Will composing a picture I can at the turn of a wheel adjust the setting to meet the lighting conditions control the speed and f stops and the iso speed with out having to go through several menu pages. It also shots a 5 frames per second. With it super fast ability to focus at any one of 9 locations I can adjust where I want my subjects in the picture quickly and accurately.
I am sure I haven't even touched on the in credable range of auto and manual adjustment possible, but this camera is a must have for a person wanting to take si mi pro picture and above.
Don't miss out on this great camera. The picture quality is great.
- 5.0 out of 5
Purchased as an upgrade to a Digital Rebel. No single reason to make the upgrade, but the lots of little reasons to upgrade made it a sell. It is a great camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
i really liked that 30d till someone stole it from me , i had no insurance at the time , now i want the 5d and a good lock on my door
- 5.0 out of 5
I started learning photography about 2 years ago, after all the family occasions i had to shoot for my family. Started with the Canon G5 (which i also love), then had to shift to a dlsr. Started with the D-Rebel and was left drooling over the 30D when it came out! Absolutely needed to have this camera. Couldn't get my hands of it when i got it 3 months ago. Very hard to take bad photos with it! :)
- 5.0 out of 5
Have had the 30d for several months. Purchased to replace my 20d which is one of my back-ups. I purchased from BrightScreen, which etches an 8x10
format into the ground glass for $200.00 more..Well
worth it. The 30d image quality is about the same as the 20d...Excellent. It does seem to be faster and the larger screen is a plus. So far, I have made up to 24x48 prints that are darn close to those made with my 1ds mk 2. The 30d has set the
mark for mid range d slr's
- 5.0 out of 5
I've been using this camera since August and it hasn't failed me yet. The sports setting is wonderful and responds quickly, I have loved this camera and it works like a charm. If you are looking into getting a professional-like camera, this one is definitely for you.
- 4.0 out of 5
I can't complain too much about the image quality or speeds etc however for my uses— exploring abandonments etc., the firmware with this camera is my only complaint. There is no way to switch between using the normal eyepiece objective and using the LCD screen as a viewfinder. This is especially disagreeable when shooting in the kind of places I get myself wedged into—where there IS no way to look through the eye piece. Otherwise, easy to love.
- 4.0 out of 5
Very good...specially the features of 3200 ISO (useful in low light, fast moving objects), 5 fps (useful is shooting F1) and 9 point AF. It would have been better if Canon could move it to 10 MPEG like 400D
- 5.0 out of 5
Have owned a 10D the last 3 years have changed now to 30D and I must say the picture quality is much better. I have taken some pictures of the same object first with 10D and next with 30D all with the same data. Afterwards I have compared them very seriously and no doubt the 30D wins.
Happy for that !
Jam Jensen
Denmark
- 4.0 out of 5
I need the 30d camera because I must have to buy this camera. I am working about the photographer & I do not have the digital camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
It is just perfect
- 5.0 out of 5
I got this camera a few weeks after it came out. I had to replace the body as the pop up flash was getting stuck. But the second body is 6 months old and doing great. I have taken some SUPER photos with this is sports mode at horse shows, baseball games, car races, etc. Makes me look way more talented then I really am.
- 5.0 out of 5
I like the canon 30D Better then the Nikon I had when I was shooting Film.
- 5.0 out of 5
Living North of the 60th parallel can pose many challenges for photographers, especial those who use digital at -40C or lower. I had the opportunity to use a 20D in those insane temperatures without a glitch. About 3 months ago I upgraded to the 30D from the 20D. The 20D did amazingly well, not only in the North but also in the humid Dominican Republic.
My experience with the 30D has been great. I did have a few freeze ups with the new 580 flash, but soon found out that making sure the flash was securely screwed down and making good contact, those problems soon disappeared.
The 30D is fast to start, fast to focus and very accurate. This camera is great for the starter to the pro. Once you get to know the workings, it's a breeze to operate. I do caution though that this is not a weather-sealed camera, so be careful in the rain & dust. The 30D is tightly put together camera, but that doesn't mean you can throw caution to the wind, as the electronic components are very sensitive & delicate (as I found out on my 20D).
I would have bought the 5D but for the price, I would prefer a weather sealed unit. For the price of the 30D you are getting a very reliable and very fast camera with good menu layouts, superb image quality and a number of creative options.
You won't be disappointed, but I sure hope Canon weather seals the 5D, as the 30D would make an excellent primary or back up body. One other thing... stick with the "L" series lenses... huge difference when using quality glass with a great camera like the 30D. And if you plan to go full frame... you can interchange glass from one full frame to cropped. 30D is one tough reliable camera.. you won't be disappointed.
- 5.0 out of 5
The Canon EOS 30D expands upon the ever-popular 20D with some fantastic new features.The camera's body has been redesigned into a smoother, sportier form, much like the luxurious 5D. Canon's also tossed in a large, 2.5 inch LCD monitor for taking a better look at those 8.2 megapixel images.High- and low-speed consecutive shooting.
- 5.0 out of 5
After reading through miles of on-line reviews and ratings on several cameras i came to the conclusion that the 30D was the best bang for my buck. Ever since the first day that owned this camera, it has been absolute heaven. The quality and craft manship that has gone into this camera is of superb quality. The larger screen is a major plus. Basically this camera is all pro and no con.
- 4.0 out of 5
The viewfinder display (focus, f-stop, etc.) is not as bright as the Digital Rebel. However, everything is shown in the small LCD on top of the camera.
Canon EOS 30D Comments & Questions (write your own!)
I'd really appreciate anyone that knows advice.
Many thanks
Mike
Now that that's out of the way, I'm a junior Mass Communications major, and am starting up a media company (dvds, posters, flyers,web pages, special events, sports photography, etc.) I do a lot of work with photoshop, and am looking to purchase a digital camera that can handle all of my needs. I've purchased my camcorder already, and just need a digi cam to round everything out.. Im going to need clear, (not "noisy") low light pix during those club parties and night games, and the ability to stretch those pix into poster size prints.. Would a Canon Rebel XT work? If at all possible, a list of accessories (tripod, type of flash, etc.) would help me out greatly.. But I realy need to know a price range and maybe a couple of choice cameras to look into purchasing.. Thanks everybody
Twill757 --
We think the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Rebel XT 350D rocks</a>, and that seems to be the general opinion of many users. I think the camera meets all of your specs; it has the same processing engine as Canon's major hit <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target=_blank">Canon EOS 20D</a> (now replaced with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Canon 30D</a>). The difference between the Rebel and the 20D/30D is the latter have a metal body, and there are some firmware features that are turned off in the Rebel. It's a great choice.
There are a number of other <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Digital SLRs</a> you could consider like the Nikon D50 and the new Pentax K100D in the same price range. For my money, I would go with the Canon, but it's not my money :-)
I have the Canon 10D, which was amongst the first real SLRs, and I love it. My only minor complaints are all resolved in the 350D or 30D.
The Rebel has very low noise, even at very high ISO of 800, and can go higher. You can get one with a lens, but you might determine if the 18-55 lens that comes in the kit is the right one for you. I would strongly suggest getting a longer lens, like one if the 70-200 or 70-300 lenses, and given low-light shooting needs, image stabilization is a must. Sigma makes pretty good lenses that fit standard lens mounts of Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc. Either way, the lens is probably more dough than the camera itself, though.
As for accessories, get the external flash -- either the Canon SpeedLight 400EX series or the 500EX series are great. They are much more powerful than the built-in pop-up flash, and can swivel and tilt, which is key for getting more natural shots at night. If you are doing any studio work or field setups, get a good tripod. It's amazing how important this is for super-sharp shots; no matter how stable you hands are, especially in low-light situations, sharp shots are the difference between pros and amateurs. Well, that and some other things like good composition :-)
I would get an extra battery, and also instead of going for one big CF memory card, go for a few 256 or 512MB cards. You will probably be shooting in RAW mode for serious shots, and they take a lot of space.
PhotoShop is great if you know how to use it and can afford it -- it's what you need for professionally finished shots. Two other software items to consider: <a href="phaseone.com/" target=_blank">CaptureOne LE</a> is a great tool for managing work flow, and <a href="picasa.google.com/download/... target=_blank">Picasa</a> is a great, fast lightweight tool for doing quick proofs, and organizing your pictures.
Hope this helps you get started!
Tom
Most of the shots will be still need zoom.
* long zoom (10x or better, image stabilization recommended)
* tripod mount on the camera and a tripod
* manual settings for exposure and focus
* polarizing filter
Many cameras (and lenses) offer image stabilization, and this is a really great feature. But if you are taking photos of anything relatively stationary (flowers, sunsets, waterfalls, etc.) a tripod allows you to not worry about shutter speed, meaning you can get the best from your lens. Also, nothing is as steady as a good tripod; handheld shots are almost never as perfectly sharp as tripod shots. Tripods are a big pain in the neck, of course, so image stabilization is a good fallback for cases when you don't have the tripod.
A polarizing filter is the single filter that I think most outdoor photos need. By reducing glare, polarizers make most colors, including leaves and sky look rich and saturated.
Is you are serious about photography, I would recommend an SLR, or one of the top end SLR-like advanced cameras. Of course they cost a lot more than many of the very good middle-of the pack advanced cameras, and SLRs also tend to be larger.
At the top end consider the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or it's less expensive sibling (just released), the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
In the middle, consider the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the new Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
For less money, you can get an older Panasonic FZ5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
I have a Canon 10D, which has since been upgraded twice, now at the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This is an outstanding camera. I am not biased toward Canon or Nikon SLRs (though Canon's point-and-shoot cameras are consistently rated higher than Nikon's).
I always avail myself of the opportunity to try out other cameras, and in the last few weeks have tried the Nikon d80 with the kit lens ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon d200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). A friend has the very popular Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or the Canon XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Based on everything I can see, and have read, the Nikon d200 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 30D. The Nikon d80 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 350D or 400D. There are subtle differences, and in professional reviews these have occasionally favored Canon's offerings, especially since Canon has beat Nikon to market by a 6 to 12 month lead in the past, so Canon gets the jump on press. The main differences between the more expensive d200 and 30D is that they are more solid cameras; this means they are heavier, but also more durable and a bit more weather resistant. Many professionals use these cameras because of these features.
But they are also bigger and heavier than their less expensive counterparts, the d80 and the 400D. I believe the internal mechanics and electronics are the same for a given brand, although some fancier features may not be available through the menus on the lower-end offerings.
All are simply outstanding, superb cameras, in my humble opinion. There are good options for lenses from both Canon and Nikon, and other companies like Sigma, Tokina and others make compatible lenses. Sony and Pentax also both recently released the Alpha a100 and K100D respectively. While these cameras don't have a long track record, they do have image stabilization built in to the image sensor, meaning it is not necessary to buy IS lenses. If you are buying all new glass, this might be something to consider.
As for a lens, I would consider getting two; all options have a lens in the 18-55mm range, which is a reasonable range for indoor shooting. I had a 28-200 lens for my Canon -- it wasn't the best quality lens and was rather large, and also didn't have IS. I replaced it with a 70-300mm IS plus a 14-55mm (or something). The two together work very well for me. If you want to go with one lens, I am sure the 18-200 is fine, but I have to say, I really love the image stabilization and the extra 100mm tele. And 18mm seems like a wide angle, but there are thing you
can do at 14mm that 18mm is just not wide enough for. Two lenses is certainly more expensive, but you might want to see how the inexpensive 18-55 lens does for you and go for a nice telephoto zoom with image stabilization once your wallet recovers :-)
Tom
I need recommendations for start-up camera and lens combinations that will yield good results for under $2,000. We have film slrs, and want to use digital at 8 megapixel or higher.
thanks
Canon: Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the more durable Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Nikon:
Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the more durable Nikon D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Sony (formerly Minolta, now out of the camera biz):
Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Pentax:
Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
I do aerial photography as a part of my job. I use a Canon 10D and with some Photoshop plugins, have made prints up to 20"x30" that look pretty good.
I agree with TomH's camera recommendations and suggest that most of your money be budgeted towards a Vibration Reduction lens that is fast (has minimum aperature setting of f/2.8 or less). When doing aerial photography, one of the biggest problems is the constant vibration of the airplane transferred to the camera. With a fast vibration reduction lens, you will greatly minimize this.
that I have are the standard 50mm lens that came with the camera, I also have a 135mm f/2.8, and a 80-200 mm f/40 one touch macro lens. Will these lenses fit the Rebel XTi 400D camera? If so I've heard that the zoom may be different. but is the f/stop effected. Thank you!
The issue with zoom is probably what is known as focal length magnification or something. The EF lenses were originally designed to project an image on a frame of 35mm film. Digital sensors are smaller, however, so there's a smaller area for the light from the lens to hit, and the result is as though you have zoomed in a little. Canon lenses have a 1.6x focal length magnification, so for example a 100mm lens would be like a 160mm lens. This is pretty nice for the most part because a long telephoto lenses get an extra boost. The drawback is that a wide angle lens like a 20mm is not a not-so-wide 32mm. So now there are some really, really wide lenses out there (I have a Sigma 14mm for my Canon dSLR, although I wouldn't recommend it).
There is no effect on f/stop (aperture) or any other characteristics of the lens.
Please explain how zoom i.e. 20x, 10x, 5x, and 3x relates and MM and what the difference in performance is between (D30 Canon Digital SLR std starter lense 18-55mm) it came with. In addition, what I need to utilize camera's features and benefits using at different distances of fast moving sports events to stationary poses.
Lense choice options? Keeping budget in mine thanks JG
possible choices but would like to better understand differences.
f2.8 200mm w/IS vs. f4-5.6 on 70-300mm w/IS USM lense
and EF S 18mm-55mm vs. Super Wide Angle EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM
These lenses all describe their ability to magnify a scene by focal length, measured in millimeters. Technically, this is a distance between the shutter and the point of focus, but practically it is just a number. On the Canon dSLR cameras a 200mm lens magnifies the view your camera sees, a 35mm lens shows the scene at about the same size as your eyes would, and a 18mm lens compresses a wide view into the view your camera sees. These are telephoto, "normal" and wide angle, respectively.
Because these numbers are hard to deal with, camera makers moved to a "zoom factor" measurement, 3x, 6x, 10x and so on for fixed lens cameras. This is a more meaningful description, presumably, since you would think it describes how much the zoom magnifies the image. While it is true that 3x should magnify the image 3 times more than 1x, 1x might actually be wider than normal on one camera than another. So, as always, camera makers make things very confusing. But generally speaking, a 10x zoom is probably equivalent to about a 200mm focal length of an dSLR lens.
Some (most) lenses are zoom lenses, which means they can change their magnification. A 70-300mm lens can go from being modestly magnified at 70mm to extremely magnified at 300mm. A "prime" lens has a single focal length (magnification). In the old days, prime lenses were considered much better, but today's manufacturing techniques are so incredible that there's often little measurable difference in quality between a prime and a zoom.
Now, to f-stops.
F-stop is another odd measurement (technically a measure of "aperture") -- which is how much light the lens lets in, except with f-stops, the smaller the number, the more light gets in. So a lens set at f/4 lets in more light than a lens set at f/16. The measurements you are seeing in the lens specifications are the minimum f-stop of the lens, where a smaller f-number is better. More light in the lens is good because you can take pictures in less bright scenes.
Most zoom lenses have a better (smaller) minimum f-stop when at they are magnifying less. So your "f4-5.6 on 70-300mm" lens has a minimum f-stop of f/4 at 70mm, but a less good minimum f-stop of f/5.6 when zoomed to 300mm. Some (really expensive) lenses have a constant f-stop through their zoom range. Canon, for example, makes an f/2.8 70-200mm image stabilized zoom lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ), which costs about three times what you would pay for their Standard f/4-5.6 70-300mm IS lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ). Why so much difference? f/2.8 at 200mm is 2 "stops" faster than the f/5.6 the other lens would have, which means you can take the same photograph in 1/4 as much light with the "fast" (expensive) lens.
I recommend that you get either of the wide angle lenses that are sold in a package with the camera (the 17-85 is a wider zoom range, so more versatile), and when your budget recovers, buy the 70-300mm telephoto lens.
So, is there a website that explains zoom and lenses? Yeah, here at DigitalCamera-HQ and DigitalAdvisor :-)
photo.net/
Follow its friendly but proffessional reviews and links - they'll answer all your questions and more.
Thank you again.
Jim G
If you are close enough, you can use a flash, but you need a really powerful flash unit for anything more than 5 or 10 feet away. So you can get an external flash to mount on the hot shoe, and if your get a good one, you might be able to get 30 or 40 feet.
The blur you get without flash is a result of a slow shutter speed since the subject is moving. The best option here is to pan -- move the camera along the direction of the subject. This could be a little tricky with an image stabilized lens such as the Z6's, since it might actually try to fight your attempts to move the camera. This is a case where practicing 100 times will help you get the shot 1 in 10 times in the moment. Panning can yield some really great effects, so it's worth trying.
The maximum 320 ISO setting on the Z6 is low by today's standards, but use high ISO if you can and still get a good picture (you may find more "image noise", especially in dark areas when shooting at high ISO). But this will give you the chance to shoot at a higher shutter speed. Similarly, open up the lens to the widest aperture (smallest f-stop) ; this will let in more light and allow a faster shutter speed.
Finally, get as close to the subject as you can (or wait for them to come to you). The less zoom you have, the less camera shake will affect the outcome. Bonus finally, consider a monopod, which will allow for good tracking of the subject, but keep the camera steadier.
But the truth is, the camera (and lens) may just not be up to this demanding task. Pro sports photographers know that you need s serious zoom lens to get the really killer shots, and this means you need a very "fast" lens, that is one with a wide aperture (small f-stop) when zoomed out. And good image stabilization systems have the ability to work while panning without fighting your horizontal motion. The cameras themselves have high ISO, 1600 to 3200 and low noise, and have an auto-exposure system that can continually set focus and exposure while tracking a moving subject ("servo mode").
And all of this can be yours with a camera like the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for $1100 and the Canon EF 70-200 f/2.7 IS L-series lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) for $1600, and the Speedlight EX-580 (~$350), and a bunch of other things.
So don't feel bad if you get some bad shots with your Z6 :-).
The only thing that will be different is that because the 400D's image sensor is smaller than the 35mm film area the lenses were designed for, you get a bonus "focal length magnification" of about 1.6x, so a 100mm lens now acts like a 160mm lens -- you might not meed the extension ring after all!
You're going to love the 400D. I have it's older (and slower) brother, the 10D that I bought a few years ago to replace my film EOS, and it is an incredible camera. The 400D is based on the same innards as the Caon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and they are all exceptional cameras.
sales@2koolperformance.com
Reply if you are looking for an SLR style camera.
spenc
www.2koolperformance.com
The
Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a top of the line pro SLR camera that would be good for this sort of thing. But I can't recommend a specific lens to get, sorry. You should ask your buddy more details then maybe we can guide you to a good deal.
thanks
* Telephoto zoom, e.g. 75-300mm ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... )
* Tele plus image stabilization, e.g. 70-300mm IS ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... )
* Tele, IS, and higher quality optics, e.g. 70-300 IS DO ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... )
* Tele, IS, better optics and small minimum f-stop (a.k.a. "fast" lens), e.g. 70-200 "L" series, IS, f/2.8 ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... )
The first one is less than $200, the last is less than $1,700. I have the 70-300 DO IS lens. I love it but wish it were faster.
Best regards
Marcin Borun, Poland
www.marcinborun.com
The flash on your Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will "pop up" automatically in low light situations. If you want to use it more creatively just push the button that has a designator that looks like a lightning bolt to utilize the flash.
Andrew
Some of our favorites are the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
If you're serious and don't mind paying extra for the additional megapixels and tools/adjustments, go for the top of the line D2X. If you don't want to spend that much or need that serious of a camera, the D80 is the most lightweight you'll probably want to go, with fewer options, a smaller price tag, and a hefty megapixel rate.
You can actually use the lens from your Elan with the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Because these are similar designs, then the zoom capability will almost be seamless.
Andrew
Still need help? If so a few more details will make it easier to find you the right camera. Let me know what price range you're in and what kind of features you want or pictures you'd like to take. Thanks!
I suppose we'd go from $300 to maybe $600. We'd be wanting to take still shots immediately. After taking the senior pictures it would be given to our daughter who is entering college for general use. She has taken some photography classes in HS and may explore photography some more in college.
Jeff
Thanks for the details. Since your daughter knows some about photography and wants to learn more I'd definitely lean towards something with optional Manual controls (so she can play with the settings and learn how they work, but still put the camera on auto when she wants to). Your price range is pretty widespread, so I'll give you a few ideas from each area and you can check out the details on them:
Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- I love the Powershots because they take great photos in low light as well as in bright sun... very rich, pure colors. This one has auto and manual exposure options and a nice 4x zoom. All-around stable and dependable.
Kodak Easyshare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- another nice all-around camera; super user-friendly. Nice big zoom.
Most of those are in the same 300-ish price range. If you're looking to spend more than that, you can possibly look into a digital SLR. Those are the more advanced cameras that take multiple lenses and have more complicated instructions and functions. While they are great for photo students, it is also easier to take a bad picture with a DSLR than it is with a point and shoot. You really do need to learn how to use them, and that's a committment I'm not sure if your daughter is looking for or not... and it may also mean buying separate lenses since the ones that come with DSLRs aren't always the greatest. If that's a route you're interested in, the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is my favorite.
Hope that helps somewhat. Let me know if you need further help!
Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- a cool new Nikon oriented toward people learning photography, Canon Rebel 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- the cheaper cousin of the 30D Brenda recommended (a totally great camera by all accounts), the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- both have image stabilization built in so you can buy much less expensive lenses. But all of these are real SLR cameras: fast, high quality and good for real photography.
I will recomend you cameras from $400, and up to $700... despite you said $600. Why? Because SRL prices start at $500... so you don't have too many of them by that price. The average, is around $800 and $1500.
Recomended Point & Shoot:
* Canon Powershot G7
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ5
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1
* Ricoh Caplio R5
* Samsung NV7 OPS
* Samsung S850
This ones, are point & shoot cameras... but they are kind of small. You also have those with ultra versatile lenses, but much bigger. Some of the bests are:
* Samsung Pro815 (with 15x lenses, and a decent sensor)
* Panasonic FZ30 (you also have the FZ50, but you should know that there's almost any difference between 8 and 10 mp, than the $100 extra bucks) I would recomend THIS ONE!
* Kodak P880
* FujiFilm FinePix IS-1
SRL's I recomend for the price:
* Pentax K100 (or K110... the difference is the image stabilization)
* Nikon D40
* Canon Rebel XT EOS 350 D
To decide between these three, you should first know some things about them:
1º Pentax K100 was the surprise in the last photography event of 2006. It has even better picture quality than the Nikon D50, and it has shift sensor image stabilization.
2º The Nikon D40 is the last release of Nikon, and it's made to compete with the Pentax. The image quality is slightly better (let's say that the throne was for the Nikon D50, until the Pentax K100 was lounched to the market, and they just released the Nikon D40 that has some better end details, but there are almost no differences). BUT! this camera doesn't have a built in autofocus... so you have to buy every lens with it's own autofocus system, which makes them more expensive. Much more... if you want image stabilization... you will have to buy much more expensive lenses, when the K100 comes with it.
3º There's no difference between 6 and 8 mp. But much more... this is the most expensive of the three, and Canon is well known for bad quality kit lenses... so you will have to buy extra lenses. This one doesn't come with image stabilization neither.
My opinion: buy the K100 camera body, and then look for lenses around 120 and 200 bucks. Sigma is a very good brand for the price you pay them. Look for versatility, something like 18-90 mm, or 28-120... or even more. I've done that.
Hope this helps you to find the best camera for you and your daughter, and I expect you to post in the future what you bought, and how pleased you are.
Alan.
I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for a reply? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com"&... so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
But remember, with the average price, it may not come with anything other than the basic body, or perhaps a basic 50mm lens. And, of course, there's Uncle Sam's cut of the mix.
And if you're going pro, you'll want a nice portrait lens capability, and with weddings, the ability to do telephone shots, the flash, and you'll also want battery backup. And always, ALWAYS make sure you purchase good 1A filters for all your lenses. They are very cheap insurance policies against impact damage.
Package deals can be a good bargain, but sometimes come with inferior lenses which make for short term savings, but long term headaches. So be mindful.
It can be easy to blow your budget when trying to get into something for the first time.
When purchasing the "Body Only" option with the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or any other DSLR, you will not receive a lens. You have to purchase those seperately.
Andrew
DON'T BUY FROM THEM!!!
I again asked if they had the Canon S5-IS for sale, I was told of course they did. He started to take my information and when he got to asking for my credit card info, I asked him again about the price I was quoted earlier and got promptly hung up on again. DON'T BUY FROM THEM THEY ARE A VERY BIG RIP OFF!!!!!
With that said, if you just want to shoot normal photos at low resolution, a 128mb card should be perfectly fine and should in fact hold about 285 photos. A 32mb would also work but would hold less (obviously). The higher resolution you use, the more space you'll need.
and.. doesnt it record any video?
i cant find this info in my manual. help would be greatly appreciated
The Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does not come with movie mode, but it does have a timer. In the "Drive-ISO" button, select item that looks like an incomplete circle with a dot at the top and a line at about the 11 O'Clock position by turning your dial selector. Focus your subject then hit the shutter button. There will be a default 10 second delay before the picture is taken. Instructions can be found in the manual, downloadable at the Canon site ( alpha03u.c-wss.com/inc/Appl... ).
The Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is more than capable for winter-sports photography. Make sure you have a good lens for it, and you'll be fine. Many professionals have great luck with this camera.
Andrew
Depending on the age of the lens, it might fit. If it is a Canon fit lens, then it should. If it doesn't fit, it may need to be rechipped. To test it ahead of time, you might try taking it to a camera shop to test the fit.
Andrew
I noticed you haven't marked a response as Best Answer... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
Rebels have plastic (polycarbonate) bodies, maybe not as robust innards, maybe a little less weather-resistant, and may lack a few minor features of their more expensive siblings. On the plus side, they are a little lighter. They are aimed at a serious photographer, but perhaps not a pro or someone who is really putting a lot of strain and use on their camera. But with a few minor exceptions, they all can use the same accessories, lenses, flashes, etc.
A lot of what is great about any of these Canon digital SLR cameras is that their digital insides are (incredibly) fast and capable, so Rebels use the same digital processors and tend to have the same or similar technical capability and specs, image quality, etc. as the more expensive EOS cameras. But watch the numbers, the following cameras have about the same electronics:
400D = 30D (both, the latest, and both <b>awesome</b> cameras :-)
350D = <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
300D = 10D
Hope this helps!
I think you should also consider the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), as it's a good "professional" camera and seems to be well-liked in dental circles.
You'll want these accessories:
Canon Macrolite MR-14EX Ring Flash
Canon EF 100mm F2.8 Macro USM
Scandisk Ultra II has the best price/performance. Camera's internals become the limiting factor. You will get virtually no improvement will a faster Extreme III or IV card. Lexar is nice, but costs 2x or so. Sandisk Ultra II at 2GB will hold about 300 8MP pictures - and cost under $50 from Amazon.com
The pictures need to be at the highest possible quality.
IF possible, use standardised batteries.
Have an excellent flash, or the abilitiy to attach a powerfull flash.
Any ideas??
The flash is not particularly strong, but flash photos are generally very clean and colored well. It's one to consider.
My no.1 priority is the quality, but with a good flash.
The battery issue is secondary/bonus.
I'm looking for something with a higher quality.
The camera suggested is only about 1 step ahead of my current camera.
Thanks for your suggestion tho, much appreciated.
You may want to look at the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The flash range is about 15 ft. at ISO 100 with 2.8/f (not astoundingly powerful, but pretty darned good). But the reason I mention it is because this camera lets you control flash and ambient exposure separately from each other, which is a really neat feature and lets you use flash lighting while still creating some nice natural-looking photos. You can also use Canon's external speedlight flashes with this camera for some good options.
Battery life is also rated high for a camera of this calibre.
The one thing I would advise is for you to consider a different lens. Yous was recommended to me by the camera store employee when I purchased my original Rebel. Fortunately, for me, there was a Canon rep in the store who advised me to purchase the 28-135 IS 3.5-5.6 lens. She was absolutely right. This lens mkes a world of difference in the pictures you are able to take especially in a theater setting.
Another thing to consider is the AF, the 30d had 9 auto focus points compared to the 1 series that have 45 with it's own dedicated processor just for focusing. If you want to make sure you don't miss a shot and the shots you do get are in focus, the the 1d MkII N with a L prime is the way to go.
I'm partial to Canon's Digital Rebel XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Two very good cameras. Secondly would be Nikon's D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because Nikkor portrait lenses are the finest in the business.
Pricey, I know. But if this is your business, it will pay to invest in the equipment that gets just the shot you want.
core.org.au/reviews/canon30...
Hope that helps!
If you have existing lenses from Nikon or Canon film SLRs then your choice is easy. Otherwise, all other things being the same I would choose the Canon. Every year, cameras get a little faster and a littler better, and the 30D is this year's camera, the 200D is last year's. Also, Canon's EOS SLR line has received universal acclaim; Nikon took a while to get to the same place and had a few duds (not the 200D, though). And I think Canon's line of lenses is a little larger. And, I have a Canon 10D which is such an excellent camera (and not anywhere as slick as the 30D) that I am totally biased :-).
Bottom line: I would choose the 30D, but both are outstanding cameras.
There are several dSLRs that offer solid continuous burst mode shooting. I'll try and detail them for you here.
Under $1500, Canon's 8MP <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... 30D</a> is going to get you the fastest FPS at 5FPS for up to 30 consecutive images. You can find it for around $1200, but since it's pretty much a pro camera, that's without a kit lens. With the kit lens you're looking at more like $1300 or $1400. And, as I'm sure you know, you'll probably want to get a couple more lenses and that'll end up running you several hundred dollars more.
Other 8MP dSLRs under the $1500 limit: The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT</a>, which costs about half the price of the 30D and gets 2.8FPS for 14 shots. The Olympus E-500 and E-330, which get 2.5FPS each, shooting continuously until your memory card is full. These are even cheaper than the Digital Rebel.
If you're willing to step down to the 6-7MP range, there are several other options, including the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... D40</a> at 2.5FPS unlimited and the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... E-330</a> at 3FPS unlimited.
Finally, there's the brand new <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A100</a>, which gets 3FPS unlimited but boasts a huge 10MP sensor. It's been fairly well reviewed and it's quite reasonably priced at roughly $800-1000.
I hope this helps you narrow down your choices. Good luck!
The biggest advantage that the Rebel has over the 30D is price. It's going to be roughly half the cost of the 30D, or possibly even less if you catch it at a black friday special. Pretty much everywhere else it's going to be inferior to the 30D, except in size and weight. Is the average non-pro going to find the 30D's extra features worth double the price? Probably not.
However, the extras ARE nice. The 30D's build quality is a lot more solid (more metal, less plastic). It is more adjustable in just about every manual setting. It has a sharper LCD display. And it does get that nice 5FPS mark in burst mode, nearly double the Rebel's 2.8. It's a camera that will last you for years to come, and hold up in the toughest conditions.
One other camera you might want to consider is the new Digital Rebel XTi/400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's an upgrade to the Digital Rebel that brings it marginally nearer to the privileged status held by the 30D. It offers a 10MP sensor, a minor jump to 3FPS, and retails only a little higher than the Rebel.
I'm not sure how much this will ultimately help you. The only other thing I can suggest is that you go to your local electronics superstore and see how each of the cameras actually feels in your hand. Many times, this is the deciding factor when you're down to just a few choices.
Good luck!
costco.com/Browse/Product.a...
You can also get a new Rebel Xti from Costco. This deal is valid until Jan 2007. I hope this helps!
Aileen
the grips on the Rebel XT and Rebel XTi are a little cramped and will most likely become uncomfortable after a while. I'd suggest going to a store and checking it out for yourself.
I have a couple of questions for you before I can start making recommendations.
1. What are you looking to spend? Perhaps moreso than with film cameras, the money you spend really determines the quality of photos you can take with digitals. Lower-end SLRs will run you between $600 and $1000. Prosumer cameras with fixed lenses but lots of bells and whistles will range between $250 and $600. And then there are consumer cameras like the one you already have, which can go anywhere from $100 to $500.
2. What will you primarily be using the camera for? Are you a hobbyist, or do you mainly take photos of family events or snapshots of friends, etc?
3. Do you care about size/portability? Does the camera need to fit in your pocket?
If you answer these questions, I can better help you narrow down your choices. Thanks!
The answer to your first question is about $600 and might not even be able to be that much I am trying to get my mom and uncle to split the price for my christmas. I am a student in college now so I can not aford it yet.
The answer to question two. I am definatly a hobbyist but, I also take pictures of family events and of my friends. Recently I took the photographs for my Grandparents 25th anniversary I really enjoy nature pictures but I also like taking portraits, and snapping pictures of people just walking or acting nature in a common setting. I have taken photo 1 but, this semester and the semesters following I am not going to have any time and I don't want to stop b/c I really love taking pictures. Basically I want one for everything one I can take fun pictures with and one I can put on a tripod and take pictures of the beach or whatever.
The answer to question 3 yes I care about size I want to be able to print pretty big. No it does not matter the size of the camera of coarse I dont want one to heavy to carry around hiking or whatever but it does not have to fit into my pocket just have a strap and a bag or be able to fit into a camera bag ya know.
Hopefully I made it easier for you to answer my question Thank you so much for your help.
I have three choices of cameras I have found so far maybe you can help tell me if they are good or not.
1. Canon EOS 30D
2. Canon Digital Rebel XTi/canon 400D
3. Canon Digital Rebel XT/Canon 350D
Thank you!
My recommendation in general, like when you put these cameras side by side and ask which one is best, is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... I am constantly amazed at the photo quality and flexibility and wish I was marrying rich so I could buy it for everyone I know. However, I can see that this is somewhat out of the price range you're thinking and it's also a pretty darned heavy duty camera for your first 'real' digital.
Because of that, my recommendation for you in particular is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... XTI</a>- the instruction manual is a little hazy, but in general this camera is user friendly for newbies yet gives good enough results for professionals. But, you have to promise that you'll learn how to use all the settings. It's a lot more fun that way and you'll get much better results.
I'm sure Ben will have some good advice for you too!
First of all, the cameras you've mentioned are all excellent cameras, but you'll be very lucky to get them for under $600. Any price you find under $600 is probably going to be from a shady New York-based "grey market" site--whatever you do, do not do business with them. Reasonable prices for these cameras from reliable stores are as follows: 30D should be about $1150, 400D should be about $775-800 (with lens), and the 350D can be had as cheap as the $600 mark.
These cameras are all digital SLRs (single lens reflex cameras), which means that unlike the vast majority of digital cameras, they have removable lenses, real optical viewfinders, and can snap photos just as quickly as film SLRs. They generally have very little or no shutter lag, can shoot to uncompressed file formats like RAW and TIFF, and offer advanced manual controls that no non-SLR camera can match.
They're also a serious investment, especially when you get the urge to experiment with new lenses, which usually end up costing several arms and legs. They are pretty large (larger than any non-SLRs) and they usually require a camera bag, especially if you have more than one lens.
So, what you need to do is take a step back and decide what kind of camera you really want. A SLR will provide you with unlimited potential and opportunity, but it's also a serious investment of both money (probably over a thousand, eventually, with lenses and accessories) and time (to learn all of its functions/settings and how to best use them), and it won't be the easiest to just pick up and take with you any and everywhere. If you go with a non-SLR you'll be sacrificing some of that potential for convenience. You can get any number of SLR-like cameras that are smaller, cheaper, and capable of producing very nice photos--just not quite as sharp and lifelike as their big brethren.
Cameras in this upper non-SLR range generally offer long, image-stabilized zooms, tons of manual control, and the option to fit on a select few external lenses via a lens adapter. Canon (S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), Sony (H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), and Panasonic (FZ7, FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) are pretty much the class leaders, but there are also quality offerings from Kodak and Fuji. I personally own the predecessor to the S3 IS, the S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which I can attest to being capable of some really stunning images.
I'm sorry that I can't really offer you a clear-cut answer here (just more questions!), but I don't want to see you saddled with a camera that isn't right for what you want and need. Hope it helps. :)
Neither the S3 IS or the XTi offer a printer dock accessory, but both are PictBridge compatible. PictBridge is an industry-standard technology that allows you to print directly from a camera to a printer (via the USB cable), entirely bypassing the computer middleman. There are hundreds of PictBridge printers and I'm not really all that familiar with them, unfortunately, but I can say from personal experience that Canon's printers are, in general, very good. Hope this helps!
Recently, I was in a toss up between the D80 and 30D for semi-professional, off-work, leisure use. I have toyed around with both the D70s and 30D, before, and they were both equally capable to produce remarkable photos when in the right hands. After some deliberation, I finally decided on the D80 for a number of reasons: First and foremost, Nikon has consistently focused its resources into the field of photography, so their expertise in mechanics and optics should be and is unsurpassed at this level (albeit Leica and the Zeiss). On the contrary, Canon seems to be a follower in this field, despite having caught up fast. Canon is frankly not as focused in this field, despite its agressive marketing tatics to capture a wide fan-base (Red / Gold ring lenses, white lenses, etc. which is simply meaningless to the anyone who knows his lenses). Secondly, the "feel" of the D80 is definitely more comfortable and well-balanced when the camera is held at hand. While it could be generally true that the more solid feeling camera (usually the heavier weighing one) gives a more sturdy and professional grip, I found the lighter D80 to be ideally weighed and more balanced, with a center of gravity appropriately place (lower-center-rear), while the 30D was unncessarily heavy and tended to twist and tilt ones grip forward-right (I can imagine this worsening on heavier lenses). This creates a magnitude of uncomfort once the 30D is used for longer periods. Thirdly is the fact that the Nikkor lenses are more appropriately priced. I am unsure whether this is a marketing tactic; however, I have witnessed consistent price increases for Canon lenses over the past 10 years, without significant improvement towards quality. One point that may affect the decision of buyers towards the Canon is the fact that it is "assembled" in Japan, while the Nikon is "assembled" in Thailand. If there were two versions of the D80, one from Japan for Japanese market and one from Thailand for the rest of the world, then I'd worry. But frankly, when even the discerning Japanese consumers are getting the same product, this becomes a mute point. Nikon will not risk its image and status through offering potentially lower quality products. Your Benz, Porsche or BMW will have many components not made in Germany. Likewise for a 30D that is only assembled in Japan.
That said, I shoot with Nikon.
That being said, I'm a Canon man. Nikon lost my interest with their very slow and bulky autofocus cameras back in the 80s. But their new digitals look pretty good though.
I have been going nuts reading reviews after reviews. I am trying to find the right camera for me. I used to own a Canon EOS Rebel G which I loved so much. It just gave up on me when I went on my 8 weeks vacation, I took about 300 pictures (during the last week of my vacation) and I owned it for ~10 years. Now I have a Panasonic FZ20k. It takes great pictures both indoor and outdoor. Since my kids are now playing hockey, softball/baseball I would like to move on to a DSLR camera where I can actually play with the lens. So, for indoor sports or Musical play which camera is good in low light? One camera dealer advised me to get Pentax k10D because of the SR; the others said get the XTi. I did get the Xti; it was very light and felt like a toy to me. So, I returned it. Then I moved on to K10D, I actually purchased it and let it sat in the bag for couple of days. Finally when I opened the box, it was used so I returned it too.(I learned my lesson there by the way) And was told it was the only one they have in the store. So, in other words I am still waiting for another K10D to arrive. I think it's a sign not to get the K10D?
Now, I am back to reading reviews after reviews after reviews. I am now moving on to D80 vs. 30D (perhaps D40x???). After reading this:
************************************************
DSLR wrote:
I finally decided on the D80 for a number of reasons: First and foremost, Nikon has consistently focused its resources into the field of photography, so their expertise in mechanics and optics should be and is unsurpassed at this level (albeit Leica and the Zeiss). On the contrary, Canon seems to be a follower in this field, despite having caught up fast.
************************************************
I am leaning towards the D80. Which camera is good in low/ indoor lights? I have read the CNet reviews for the D80 they gave it 8.4, Canon 30D I think it's an 8.0 and the D40x doesn't have one yet. They did have a review for D40 of 7.4 out of 10. Since the D40X is clone of D40 ( except it's 10 megapixels) do you think I should wait for the D40X reviews? If I get the D80, Is 200mm f2.8 fast enough to capture good pictures? Is Sigma 200mm f2.8 going to fit in the Nikon D80? Or does Tamron have 200 mm f2.8 that will fit in D80? What specific lense should I buy? Doesn't lenses have letters (mount?) after the f2.8. I am new to this whole thing so, please help. Thanks again for your time.
If the XTi was too light for you (a toy), you most certainly want the 30D or the D80 (or D200). Opinions about which company is conceptually better at cameras notwithstanding, Nikon and Canon are both real camera makers, and these are all real cameras. If you have any lenses from your old Rebel, then they'll work on the 30D, which would seal the deal for me. If not, then it's a toss up.
As a long-time Canon owner and serious (not professional) photographer, I very much appreciate the solid, strong performance of the 30D predecessor, the 10D which I have owned since it was released in 2004. The metal body, great functionality and speed are all great in the 10D, even by today's standards. The 30D is faster, has an even better image processor (lower noise at high ISO), more MP, a spot meter and a few other things I miss a little on the 10D. So it sounds like a great camera. I have heard similar raves about the 200D from Nikon.
I do think Nikon's glass has a great rep, however you should know they are going through a transition now, putting the focus motor in the camera, where it used to be in the lens (they had it in the lens for backward compatibility with their non-AE/AF lenses from many years ago). This means, I think, that there will be some incompatibilities in their lens line over the next few years. Canon made that switch (much to the ire of Canon owners then) in the early 1980s. So you may have a wider selection of lenses from Canon, although that's mostly speculation.
I would avoid all the other dSLRs, given your experiences so far. While many are fine, the Canon and Nikon offerings are the ones most pros choose, and if you want a solid camera, this is where you should stick. You will NOT be disappointed in either.
To lighthouse, you asked about shooting indoors (I presume portrait photos). This depends on the distances you will be covering during your indoor shooting. 200mm is obviously great if you need to reach across relatively long distance (e.g. runway models or podium speakers). However, if you are mainly shooting portrait across distances within 2-3 meters, you may even consider a fix-focus 35mm or 50mm f/1.8 or 1.4 lens, which are great for indoors and out-door night photography.
All said, I tend to lean towards Nikon bodies due to my believe in the range and quality of Nikkor lenses. Agreed with DeRuvo.
Thank you all for responding to my message. It helped me a lot in deciding what to get. I finally got the D80 with 55-200mm Quant...for $1099 plus $50 gift card and 19.99 Epson mini printer. I think I had a great deal. I was a little picky w/ the lens they gave me. It had some finger prints when I got it so, I returned it and got a Nikkor 55-200mm instead. I paid the difference with the $50 gift card I got when I bought the kit and $50 more in cash. In short paid $1150 (out of pocket) for D80 body and Nikon 55-200mm lens. I also ordered me a nice Nikkor 50mm f1.8 lens for the indoor portraits. I do think that the 55-200mm Nikkor lense will be good enough for now. I am saving for a faster lens i.e. f2.8 for my indoor "Hockey photos". NOW, my last question... Which of these Nikon lenses is good enough for shooting indoor hockey photos and I can also use outdoor? 180mm , 55-200 or 105mm f2.8 ? Is there a 18-180mm/25-180mm made by Nikon?Please let me know which will be the smart choice bec. I don't have that much money to spend. I know if I can get a lens that's faster (indoor) than the Quant that I got now, I will be happy and won't even think of any other lens again. Again, THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR GOOD ADVISE. Hope to hear from you soon.
As for buying a 50mm lens, frankly, I think that's a waste of money. Get the 105mm Nikon instead. And I think that you're covered on the lens for hockey.
On the subject of lenses for the Nikon id go with the 18-70mm and a nice 50mm, as I take mostly low light shots.
by the way someone mentioned looking at cnet reviews.....don't. Bias bias bias is all I can say about their camera reviews . They are not photographers and many of their statements are down right inaccurate. They rate based solely on how expensive a product is.
Light house, Nikon makes a 70-300mm f3.5-4.5 with an image stabalizer on it. Runs brand new around $450.
Deep: Sorry I haven't had a chance to check my e-mail for the longest time lol. Anyhow, if it's not too late, I got mine at Ritz/Wolfe Camera. I did wait for a long time to get that deal :-P Check their website and they might have a sale for "Mother's Day".
Haley: Thanks :- )
Liehsc and Marley: I will definitely check out those lenses. Thank again:-)
And YES!!! I'm loving my new D80 (with 50mm f/1.8)
In the end, you can read all the reviews you want and you're just as confused as you started. But when you're holding that camera in your hand, seeing what it looks like in the viewfinder, and judging the speed of the focus, etc. first hand, then suddenly, all becomes clear.
Just don't let the salesman sell you on third party lenses and accessories unless you like the results. Salesmen make their commission (called spiffs) on these third party accessories. So beware.
photozone.de/8Reviews/lense...
As for weight, I you may find other lenses that could be slightly lighter, but what's the tradeoff? My experience has been that usually third party lenses are heavier than manufacturer lenses. But YMMV.
Glad you found the camera for you, Tom! Enjoy!
That said I am concerned about the idea the Nikon is changing their lens format accross the line as per the D40x model. If that is true there won't be many new lenses coming out for the D80 in the years to come an what lenses I do invest in won't be compatible with future Nikon bodies. Come to think of it that would be a huge determining factor and would lead me back again to the 30D. Help me please, I'm going around in circles and I'm getting dizzy.
Great forum btw and this thead particular has been helpful in addressing my dilemma. Thanks for any and all feedback. ~ Mike
Anyone who can solve Mike's question once and for all...without a depends what your gonna do with it attitude will thereby make my decision as well. Thanks!
Bruin, really, what's the point of a 50mm? It has such a narrow focal range that you won't really use it that often - if you have a zoom along for the ride. When mine came with it, I stuck it in a drawer and never used it.
Now as to the 50 mm that was what I was going to get, the 30D body and the "fantastic plastic". Until I could save up for a decent lens. In reviewing lenses(photozone) the kit lenses all seem terrible, so I'm at a loss.
Ideally I'd find something that covered the lower to mid range i.e. 17-85, 18-55 the 28-135 IS is available in a kit with the 30D for $1288.00. The cost of the 17-55 2.8 is prohibitive as is the 24-105 2.8L. Basically 1300 maybe 1400 is the most (more actually but) that I can afford right now but I don't feel like that means I have to settle for the XTI/D40.I should just keep saving a get the 5D /24-105L kit...in about a year. lol
What do you recommend?
Oh I learned that I was uninformed regarding the new Nikon lenses with motors and their compatibilty with the D80/D200 bodies with motors.
adorama.com/NK70300AFGU.htm...
Here's the link to Ken Rockwell's site tha pertains to Nikon lenses.
kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikko...
I would advise saving up for a few more months and get the lens you REALLY want. Since you have it as a goal to go Pro, you won't regret being patient and having the right tools.
One last thing. No matter what lens you end up getting, plan on laying out another $25 or so for a 1A Skylight filter. It's a must for protecting your lens elements and is a good, cheap insurance policy. I can't tell you how many times I trashed a 1A filter, but saved my lens from impact damage!
Then, when you're ready to purchase the camera, you have a leg up in both experience, and price deductions.
N80: $1110
30D: $1275
A $165 price difference isn't much, but I'm already over my $1000 budget. Add in a 4GB card, a case, that Skylight filter, maybe an extra battery and I'm way over...so that's why I'm going to get the N80...maybe.
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
but got confused.
There are many upsides to certain cameras; the huge sensor on the 30D may influence your purchase, or the wonderful Nikkor lenses available with the D80. Perhaps you have had a camera before from one of them--obviously some of the lenses can be used on a future purchased camera. There are variables to each purchase, and very well there should be.
But the best thing you can do is try them out. Whether from a friend or family member, or even for a brief time at a store, it is DEFINITELY worth your time to get a feel of the camera before your purchase. NEVER purchase blind, you will get surprises you didn't ask for.
Realize your options and make your favorite pick. All in all, you will find what you like for a reason that suits you.
As for the Rebel XTi, it's a worthy alternative.
And there are many used Canon Lenses to be had a Fremiranda.coms buy/sell board. I bought a used EF 24-105F4L for 940.00. I can't wait to get to shooting.
Thanks for all the info from this thread where I posted some time ago but have been following since. That said I always loved the feel of the D80 in my hands and I'm certain it's an outstanding camera. Hopefully I don't regret my decision, I don't think I will. All the best and happy shooting. :)
photozone.de/8Reviews/index...
I'm a base noob but my impression is that Tamron, Tokina and Sigma all sell third party lenses and all either hit or miss. It's very lens specific. for instance the Tamron 17-50 and 28-75 are somewhat legendary for being incredibly sharp and wonderful. I've heard great things about the Tokina 12-24. Sigma's new 18-50 2.8 seems like a winner as well. I think they all make some very good lenses and some not so hot. Check reviews first.
I keep getting caught in this loop: "I should buy the XTi because I have Tamron glass for my Ti2 already, filters, etc. But I'd like to move up to the 30D since it's a bigger sensor and better camera. But the 30D is almost outdated w/ a 40D sooner or later. But I could save $200, dump my Tamron glass on eBay and move over to the D80 which is cheaper and comparable to the older 30D and just buy new glass for the Nikon. But if I'm going to do all of that, maybe I should just buy an XTi and a great lens."
And then I'm screwed. It's really hard to be sure what to do here.
You could also consider renting a model or two. Most smaller camera companies will rent you a camera for a day or weekend and will even apply the rental price to the camera if you buy it from them.
I'd probably be saying the same thing regardless of which one I chose. Happy shooting. ~ Mike
XTi is out. Just doesn't feel right. I'm sure it takes good pictures but it doesn't feel right for me.
D80 has a nice feel. I like it. I like the layout, the menu system. Looks good, feel comfortable with it.
30D feels like I could kill someone with it, properly grasped and swung. It was dead so I couldn't play with menus but it certainly has a nice feel in my hand.
I do have Canon glass, but it's only about $200 worth, tops.
So 2 slightly less subjective questions based on reading today:
(1) in terms of megapixels and image quality, how does the 30D compare to the D80? I know the 30D is only 8.2 but I don't know if that means any real meaningful compromise in image. If you were buying solely on image quality and electronics (AF points, metering, etc.) is there a big advantage to one or the other? I've got them both in a spreadsheet and they look awfully close but I may have missed something.
(2) can either camera put RAW into Photoshop without 3rd party software? If I have to buy a piece of software to get the RAW from one or the other, that's a consideration. I work in advertising and while I don't need to shoot billboard size, I do want maximum flexibility going into CS3.
Thanks again.
I must say that first I was choosing between XTI and D80. And XTI was so cheap that I could get it with an average lens for around $1000.. but this cheap is not for free. No LCD display, lack of button/dial controls - it really reminds of an advanced point-and-shoot, which allows doing your controls only by browsing thru menu... I had opportunity to play a while with such advanced p&s cameras.. and after many attempts to set your aperture/speed and so on, you are getting tired of browsing in menu, and just set to AUTO and forget about any additional features. AND!!! the feel...When I held XTI in my hand, it felt so cheap, the tiny viewfinder.. weight..plastic. No it's not for me.
So in my opinion Canon has currently a gap for advanced amateurs. They definitely won't choose XTI, unless they have already invested in lenses and have no money to get 30D. And also many won't choose 30D because it's already not that new and has not much serious changes since 20D. If I choose 30D then I would not be quite happy when in some 6 months would come the "40D" with almost same price, and lowerng the price of 30D to 30% down.
That's why I have chosen D80. I had no budget for 2.8 apertured Nikkor anymore, and I have chosen Tamron AF 17-50mm f-2_8 SP XR Di II. It's fast enough, it's sharp, it's great, except... very few pictures have small blurry circles in same 2 to 3 places. That's not dust definitely - I cleaned lens and same as before. That's not sensor - it's my only lens currently and I have installed lens only twice (the second time I was checking sensor for dust). Then I looked thru the lens very thoroughly and found 2 tiny particles inside. It's really a bad surprise! One is between one of front glasses and aperture leaves and the other is between back glasses and aperture. I am currently making test pictures, but cannot find these flaws again. Maybe this occurs only under some lightning conditions? I know this is not the most correct place to ask, but any advise is very helpful. Did anyone met something like this? Does anyone have lenses with such particles inside? Should I return this lens to manufacturer?
Sorry for long tale...
Other than family gatherings, most of my photos are of my son's sports. He does Cross Country running and biking (tour bike races). I find that I am missing shots (mostly during the bike races) because the camera is not fast enough. It sounds like the 30D shutter speed will solve this problem. (I currently use a SanDisk Extreme III 2.0 GB CF). Since my lenses were purchased prior to the digital SLR, could this also be part of my problem? Do I need to worry about upgrading my lenses for the digital cameras?
Thanks
D80 or EOS 30D ???
Well.. I'm a serious photographer... and I bought EOS 10D on 2004 then move to 20D ... I like the result of my canon, the problem is that canon doesn't has a good balance, so if you are using it for a long time, your hand will soon be tired.
So last year I decided to buy D80 and 18-200 nikon lens. This was the first time I use Nikon .. and I've never been so happy to feel the solid and balance body of D80, It has a fantastic viewfinder (It's very .. very brilliant clear), the magnification is good. Image quality is very good.
so here is my opinion regarding nikon or canon:
- if you shoot RAW image result would consider the same, but if you shoot JPEG I found that my canon has
a better "out of camera" result (but anyway you can easily adjust with photoshop)
- if you happen to shoot in a low light condition then canon is better.
- if you are looking for a good "handling" DSLR then I prefer nikon, since I consider "handling" is very important
for me
- speaking about the lenses, both nikon and canon have a very reliable good lenses.
- one thing that annoying me with my nikon is the sound of the focusing motor, while canon has a very silent
motor.
finally... I can't wait to see the 40D reviews.
But if price is an issue, then the Tokina should be an affordable alternative.
are cleaned.Also,does it matter that the D80 flash sy speed is 200?
I have only used a point and shoot digital so this is a new world
to me.I have used my minolta x700 for many years so I do know how
to shoot.I am just still analog in this digital world.Thanks to everyone
in this blog you have given me alot to think about.
However, many pros in sports use the Canon. I think Radswim would be happy either way. And since you're already comfortable with the Nikon platform, I'd stay that way.
Here's another article ( associatedcontent.com/artic... ) which may help to know what to look for.
You want a good fluid head and a quick release plate which will allow you to shoot on the go.
As for personal use - I like Velbon for the basic tripod. But size and weight does matter. Keep in mind when shopping around for tripods the weight of your camera plus the weight of extras. Make sure that tripod can carry the load of the camera, lenses and flash.
Ken makes some good points, but I've found reviews ( bythom.com/105AFSlens.htm ) that state that it has nice overall performance. So I think it's a case of Your Mileage May Vary.
Since we're talking about a few hundred here, I'm betting, why not go to a local premium camera store and see if you can rent one? That way you get a first hand experience with the lens and often, if you buy it from them, they'll deduct the cost of the rental from the sale price.
Hi Alex,
I only know e-bay or Amazon.com for second hand stuff but then again, James is right ... "Well, the thing about eBay is you pay your money and you takes your chances.”
Ritzcamera.com has it: Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor Close-up Lens Mfr # 2160 Our Stock # 541535902 Our Price: $899.95
I have the 50mm with f1.8 it is very good and very fast. I am thinking about getting the 18-200 VR lens myself because I have kids to follow around with the camera and sure am tired of switching lenses in between... Thank you James for the advice......
Cheers,
Good luck Alex. If you end up getting the 108mm, please let me know how it is.. /thanks.
My friend has a D80 with the 18-200mm lens + UV filter. Is ths lens the best for shooting (not literally of course) big game in the morning?
Mike
CanonEOS 40D w.28-135 lens- $1499.99
Nikon D80 w/ 18-135mm lens--$1149.88
Thoughts?
In my mind, both are equal to the task.
D80 - 10.2mega pixles
30D - 8.2mega pixles
Does this really make much difference?
To answer PenK's question from August, I upgraded from the 300D Rebel to the 30D and yes, the speed alone was worth the upgrade. You won't be missing shots anymore, and I definitely had that problem with the Rebel, primarily because of the shallow 4 jpeg buffer.
Someone, megapixels matter very, very little. The difference when I went from 6.3MP to 8.2MP was that my images were just 500 pixels wider and 300 pixels taller. Going to 10MP would offer an even smaller improvement.
As a 30D user, I do get slightly envious of D80/D200 users. Some areas Canon's products are better, like low noise images at high ISOs, while Nikon wins in other areas. However the decision is even harder nowadays, with the 40D being out. That camera truly gives Nikon a run for their money and has features that they don't offer, like the sensor self-clean.
I would recommend the Canon xxD line over Nikon, to anyone wanting to take pictures at high ISOs. WOW. Sometimes I forget I'm shooting, say, ISO 1600, because the pictures look so good. Very clean images, especially when paired with an "IS" image stabilizer lens.
Buying into Nikon vs Canon "system" is definitely an extremely difficult choice to make. Although I think there's no wrong answer. Good luck to everyone facing it!
I really need some help with which lens to pick, and if the nonNikkor lens are any good.
Thanks for any help at all.
Nikon D80 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera Kit with 18-135mm AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens @ $1000
Nikon D40x 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens @ $929
I am planning to buy my first dslr. Photography is my hobby and I generally do street photos, cityscapes and I prefer b/w shooting a lot.
Would prefer an all-in-one lens to start off with as I'm practically on a shoe-string budget.
Need advice as I'm simply overwhelmed by the huge array of reviews I've been reading for the better part of last month!!
I leave the decision to you guys...please help narrow down within a week's time.
I started out with Canon EOS 400D aka XTi vs Nikon D80. I've been shooting photos for long, but only with point-n-shoot cameras.
Given D80 has pentaprism viewfinder, spot metering and better ergonomics compared to XTi, I was more inclined for D80. But, I went back and had a look at Canon 30D.
Interestingly price for D80 ($730) vs D30 ($800) is very comparable (body only, as per B&H photo)
Given I don't own any lens now, what tradeoffs would I be making if I choose one over the other.
For now, I'm more oriented towards Canon for it's Magnesium Alloy body compared to D80's high grade plastic, faster 5fps continuous, CMOS sensor (=>better pictures at higher ISOs), better choice of post-processing software.
Actually this should be in a separate thread, but...
Lenses: No matter what body I choose, I plan to buy Tamron 18-200mm over kit-lenses. My justification for this is that this lens would allow me experiment more (meaning higher range of focal lengths) and would serve as a good starter all-in-one lens.
As an expert, what is your take on that?
P.S. This post is NOT intended to evoke the Nikon vs Canon ire. Just expecting some genuine feedback that would help me understand tradeoffs.
The CMOS sensor is the real ticket and will reduce noise at higher ISO - which is the achilles heal of higher MP cameras in the point and shoot world.
Now to lenses, have you taken a look at the Sigma varieties? They are running neck and neck with Canon/Nikon lenses of late and some, according to Photography magazine and testimonies on this board, are down right superior.
An all in one lens is ideal just starting out. Just do yourself a favor and buy a 1A Skylight filter for it. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
Actually, I'm a careful handler, but doesn't hurt to know body could take some beating :)
>The faster burst mode is a plus if you shoot action shots more.
Yes, since I would love to have an all rounder body, good to have this feature.
I don't photograph for living, and so, can't afford many bodies, at least to start with.
>As for "post-processing software" that's a wash as the best is Photoshop/Photoshop Elements, anyway. A free option is Picasa from Google. It's a great tool for managing your photographs, cleaning up red eye, and even printing them.
Noted!
>Now to lenses, have you taken a look at the Sigma varieties?
No, actually I only looked Tamron.
>They are running neck and neck with Canon/Nikon lenses of late and some, according to Photography magazine and testimonies on this board, are down right superior.
Are you talking about 18-200mm in particular? If so, then the prices are exactly the same on B&H photo.
And in one review I read, they perform equally well. If you are talking about long run other lenses,
I definitely need to look at more lenses.
>An all in one lens is ideal just starting out.
Yes, that's the goal, to get started. And also for occasions where changing lenses would be clumsy
or not favorable.
>Just do yourself a favor and buy a 1A Skylight filter for it. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
Thanks a ton for that one James. Since I'm just starting with DSLR, I didn't know this was so important.
I'll definitely add it to my must-have list and buy it off along with the lens.
I have the fixed 50mm 1.8f lense and I am very happy with it. The only thing is I can't really use it about 10 feet away from my subject. If I were to take Baptism or bday party pictures what fixed or fish eye lense would you recommend? Should I use 18, 12-24 or 10.8? Also, something inexpensive for an amateur like me. Thanks again.
I have the 18-200mm VR already (it's just heavy)... But it's a good thing that I don't have to spend anymore :-} Have a good day! Thanks again.
But sure, it'll help.
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I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on eBay. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Andrew
As for the 5D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- yes it's gorgeous, yes it's expensive, and it's also got a bigger sensor with less pixels 'crowded' onto it. It's a better camera. But it may not be what you need particularly if you can't afford it.
Here are some image tests that might help you decide, pay special attention to the low light shots:
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT. If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D on eBay. They are very fast and have very clear and crisp shots. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Linda
Honestly, either camera would serve you equally well. The D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a bit newer and a bit flashier in terms of features and whatnot, but it's really a minor upgrade over what the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )'s got. My best advice here is to go to a store where you can get your hands on both cameras, try them out, see which one feels best to you.
I have been following CMOS technology since late '90s when it was introduced in digital devices. The original concept for CMOS was to create a new photo imaging technology that would pack more megapixels in a chip and also make it more cost efficient than CCD. Well, they did just that, but the drawback to CMOS technology is, the same high quality imaging could not be achieved as in CCD technology. Even though CMOS produces a good quality, the CCD is still more superior. To compensate for some imaging weaknesses of CMOS, it takes up to around 25% more CMOS megapixels to bring the quality some where equivalent to CCD megapixels. So, for e.g. an 8 megapixel CMOS chip would be equivalent to around a high quality 6 megapixel CCD chip, or a 10 megapixel high quality CCD chip could be rated in comparison to around a 13 megapixel CMOS chip. This would mean that the Nikon D80 in a best case scenario is able of producing high quality photo images up to double the size than from the Canon 30D. These image results become more noticeable when printing large display prints or where certain detail is critical like in the lower 10% and or the higher 90% of RGB DATA. For brochure and web images either camera at full frame are generally over kill. Some Nikon D80 users have complained about the images looking a little soft, that's because there is tons of detail data packed in the image file which will appear soft looking when viewing an image at a lower magnification, but if you enlarge the image to a huge display print its perfect. The solution to this image softness is to just lower the resolution first before you decide to use sharpening option when you are using images at smaller size, because at full resolution the file size would be over kill for small prints.
Nikon was founded in year 1910. The top three major optics company in Japan merged together to form the Nikon Corporation, originally known as Nippon Kogaku K.K. Their expertise is based around high quality optics, originally with binoculars and microscopes, then progressed to nikon cameras and many other instruments that required the best optical quality. Nikon had about 30 years of optical expertise before the nikon camera came was introduced. That's why the Nikon razor sharp optics is and has been so famously known for. At the same time, optical detail can be degraded from poor supporting recording media, whether its film or digital. The high quality results of CCD technology is why Nikon will not stand down or compromise.
I have never come across any photographers that purchased a Nikon camera system for the reason of: cosmetic stylish looks, marketing trends and gimmicks, fancy packaging, cheap price, or because it was an alternative to some other higher quality camera system. They all purchased a Nikon camera system for the same reason, for the high quality. There is not one other major camera manufacture that can claim that. Around 1980 when Nikon introduced the great line of Nikkor AI lenses, a percentage of photographers did not like cosmetic look of these AI lenses and switched over to Canon because it was more attractive, regardless of how good the Nikkor lenses were. Around the same time, Canon introduced the fancy AE programming that attracted more non-serious photographers, "I REST MY CASE"
As far as making your final choice between the Nikon or Canon., they both have similar features that will do the job for your sports photography needs. The new 18-135mm Nikkor zoom lens that Nikon has packaged with the D80 and the D200 has to be one of the best versatile digital lenses available, "OUTSTANDING". The coverage from this zoom ratio will be more than likely the only digital lens most Nikon photographers will ever need. The auto focus motor is quick and extremely quite. The optics are razor sharp.
One final thought to consider. If you are at a professional commercial photography level, I would recommend looking into a Hasselblad digital camera system. The H1D offers a 22 megapixel CCD (medium format) camera or the H2D that offers a super high quality 39 megapixel CCD.(DSLR).
Good Luck!
Piero Foto
If you ever see a H1D offers a 22 megapixel CCD (medium format) camera at a football game it won't be shooting the game. my guess it will be shooting the cheerleaders. A camera is a tool not an item of worship. Choose the camera that meets you needs and budget. Either of the 2 cameras you are looking for purchase are good cameras. I dare any one to look at a photo you take and frame on your wall to guess which camera you choose.
Good luck on taking great photos.
AG
I started taking pictures on the streets of Vienna, Austria in 1946. I have shot with Leicas, Rolleis, Nikons, Pentaxes, Canons, Retinas and many others. I still have a Nikon F Photomic T with four lenses as well as a Leica IIIg with four lenses. Most all of the cameras I have used have been of quality at the time. The statement is really absurd. However, I would agree with his conclusion that either of the cameras would produce excellent results. Good advice and I admire his effort at the detailed explanations, but it all distills down to reading three or four reviews of each, going into a camea store and handling the camera, and then buying the camera. With the upgrades in cameras every six to eighteen months, they will be or are already overtaken by new features on new cameras.
With that said, Canon has a better selection of lenses available that are fully functioning with their DSLRs, so if you're planning on purchasing lenses/ adding elements to the camera in the future you may want to consider that. General consensus (and I agree with it) is that Canon is moving faster technology-wise so if you are interested in upgrading in the future, that might be a deciding factor.
I love the Nikons, but the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) wins this debate in my opinion. People who buy it seem to do so because it is pleasingly laid out and the controls are a bit easier on the hands than the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )... of course that won't matter since you've tried and liked the D70, but it's an argument I hear a lot.
The 30D has a better burst mode (5fps vs 3fps on the Nikon) and faster operation in general in most tests. I have heard that the 30D has more metal and less plastic on the body compared to the D80, but I'm not sure if that's true or not.
I think that the 30D also wins in the image department. High ISOs are cleaner, image quality in general is sharper and better.
These are both great cameras, and a lot depends on your lenses. I would choose the 30D, but honestly if I were you I would go to a store and handle it next to the D80 and see what feels right to you. You should be totally happy either way.
Digital grade lenses will allow you to use certain features of your 30D that a conventional lens won't allow for because it's manual. But any EF grade lens will work with the Canon, that's the beauty of it.
DCHQ has some great lenses to chose from here. ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/3... ) Take a look at the Sigma 55-200 ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/s... ). It gets a solid 5 out of 5 stars and the prices are great.
You'll definitely want a tripod or monopod to help with the reduction of blur. If you don't want to use a flash, you're going to want a "fast" lens (low aperture). Something in the f/2-f/2.8 ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) range should work really well. DigitalAdvisor's lens site ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/ ) is a great help in finding something like this. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Very helpful; many thanks to you!!!
Anytime. Please feel free to come back and ask us any more questions.
Andrew
Main thing here even though I own the 30D since April 06, I'd also get the xti as a second unit. I like it's smaller sexier frame and then have a dedicated lens always on.
I've learned finally that changing lenses in the field has too many drawbacks with dust.
Secondly, I always chose RAW+ Jpeg to have ready to send images or if by chance like when in Germany this summer where someone has small laptop with. Now the group has a fun way to see the entire wine fest of fun we had. My Apple powerbook seems to be able to view raw images from downloaded file.
Other advantage of the larger view LCD,
Sharing at dinner with friends at the cabin with no computer around. Or on the boat. The battery in this series is the greatest feature, where not only was it out all weekend shooting, but the same battery showed all the images ten times over to all.
I also have the Canon i9900 printer, and I've been so amazed at the quality, that you'd think they were from a pro lab.
If I do print the large size, I tend to make a 4 image collage of related views and framed under glass make the perfect gift. You'll go through a lot of ink if just printing single image 11x14's. Mine is 8 color. Having at least double of extra stock on hand is a must.
As far as 8 - 10 MP's. It's subjective as to what settings are being used.
In auto mode, it's not 10 MP anyway. Or RAW. It defaults to jpeg only.
So I do 98% of all shooting in manual. Auto, if it's just a reference view of a machine in the warehouse, and I want the best quick shot where the lighting is worse than a candle lit cave.
It rarely fails at this.
You simply can't beat this camera at it's own magic.
There's a catch 22 here, and knowing that all cameras (in this category) are only doing half the work, and your input and the investment of a quality lens, and 1 - 2 GB ultra 3 cards all lead to the final prize.
Hearing the Oooo, Aaaaah, just from the viewer, is my reward.
I also believe the XT is getting alot of press and hype right now. Which makes me wonder if it is as good as it sounds. I think there are so many wonderful places to research but I don't care for canon's website. I found most of the info. to be too overwhelming and the print small and difficult to read.
Canon currently has some awesome rebates also.
You'll also find this link dpreview.com/ very resourceful.
The main menu on the left will have you busy for a while.
You will see just how deep the review of camera gets into every aspect, then take a tour of the forum. The forum is divided into the camera being used.
Most of them have links to their personal photo site so you can see the quality and the lens and settings that were used.
Also keep in mind, the Digital Rebel xTi (EOS-400D) is the latest model from Aug 06. The XT is the older model from Feb 05.
All cameras are listed by date on the site from the time they appeared on the market. Shopping in general on-line, one could be purchasing old stock and not realize it.
Print out a document from your own notes of each camera.
Bring with a blank Compact Flash card to load in the camera your testing so when you get home you can load the samples you just took. Be ready for a shocking view on your screen.
Good Luck, and have fun.
You're definitely going to want something with a wide open aperture: f/2.8 and below for the gym and indoor portions of the wedding. This will allow more light in while keeping your shutter faster for blur reduction. You're also going to want zoom capabilities to avoid switching lenses out too much and chancing a missed shot. The Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) is very versatile and the length should get most of the shots you want at weddings.
As for sports activities, it will work well if you're closer to the action, but if you want more zoom, the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) would be perfect. The 200mm capability will make your photos seem to be taken from the court while the image stabilization will help stabilize the lens at the high zoom levels.
If you want a lens that will get wider angle shots in both instances and your cross-country trip, the first lens would be ok, but you'll get more in the frame with the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ). At the lower length, you'll capture a good group shot, or a beautiful landscape. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Willie - Florida
This is a great camera for the types of shots you are taking. Inside of a church with lower lighting, you're going to want a "fast" lens (f/2.8 and lower). Something like the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ) would be perfect. You can get nice wide shots, and some closer shots as well. The f/2.8 aperture will work terrific inside and reduce blur. The ISO 3200 capability of the camera will create some "noise" or granulation in your shots, but make it even easier to catch sharp photos inside. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I have been following CMOS technology since late '90s when it was introduced in digital devices. The original concept for CMOS was to create a new photo imaging technology that would pack more megapixels in a chip and also make it more cost efficient than CCD. Well, they did just that, but the drawback to CMOS technology is, the same high quality imaging could not be achieved as in CCD technology. Even though CMOS produces a good quality, the CCD is still more superior. To compensate for some imaging weaknesses of CMOS, it takes up to around 25% more CMOS megapixels to bring the quality some where equivalent to CCD megapixels. So, for e.g. an 8 megapixel CMOS chip would be equivalent to around a high quality 6 megapixel CCD chip, or a 10 megapixel high quality CCD chip could be rated in comparison to around a 13 megapixel CMOS chip. This would mean that the Nikon D80 in a best case scenario is able of producing high quality photo images up to double the size than from the Canon 30D. These image results become more noticeable when printing larger portrait prints or where certain detail is critical like in the lower 10% and or the higher 90% of RGB DATA. For brochure and web images either camera at full frame are generally over kill. This D80 CCD chip in RAW file format produces a look of nice smooth continuous tone.
Some Nikon D80 users have posted reviews about the images sill looking a little soft when applying the in camera sharpening feature, that's because there is tons of detail data packed in the image file which will appear softer looking when viewing an image at a lower magnification, but if you enlarge the image to a big portrait print size its perfect. For best quality control you should always downsize and apply sharpening or any other photo filters in post production. Now on the flip side of the coin, this slight softness from mega image detail data can be used to your advantage when making smaller portrait prints. So go ahead and shoot full RAW resolution no matter the size print you are intending to enlarge.
As far as making your final choice between the Nikon or Canon., they both have similar features that will do the job for your photography needs. The new 18-135mm Nikkor zoom lens that Nikon has packaged with the D80 has to be one of the best versatile digital lenses available, "OUTSTANDING". The zoom ratio from this lens will give you to the perfect coverage for wide angle interior church shots and nice close up telephoto portrait shots. The auto focus motor is very quick and extremely quite, the optics are razor sharp, the depth of field and color is excellent. You will probably not need to purchase any other additional lenses, but if you require a faster lens for very low light portrait conditions Nikon has a great selection of Nikkor lenses. With the Nikon D80 being better priced than than the Canon, the choice is as clear as their optics.
Good Luck!
Piero Foto
I believe that in reality, the distinction between CMOS and CCD technologies should boil down to actual performance: image quality, detail, dynamic range, noise, power consumption, speed and so on. Subjective tests comparing Canon images to Nikon showed that Canon had more good qualities, and produced a better image than the early Nikon models (e.g. Canon 10D vs Nikon D100) -- this gap has been narrowed or perhaps Nikon is better in some areas these days, but for the typical user, I believe the minor differences between image quality between these two exceptional cameras is insignificant. Other factors are as important, or perhaps even more.
Willie's original question indicated that he had a Digital Rebel (the 300D, which was part of that first generation). The 30D (or 400D Rebel XTi) are both two generations better (faster, larger LCD, quick startup and several other significant improvements). And if one already has Canon lenses and other accessories, the advantages of staying with Canon start adding up in dollars. It's also worth considering the cost of learning a new camera system -- the ability to shoot well, especially with people, requires complete "muscle memory" of the camera and settings; it takes a while to learn how to make a new camera work without having to think (at least it does for me). The difference between the Rebel and the 30D are small, and that's a good thing.
So while there are some technical distinctions between Nikon and Canon, I don't think they really warrant changing manufacturers. Nikon does finally seem to have found their stride and is innovating again after some early missteps. Their cameras and lenses are truly world class, as are Canon's. It's good to see a battle like this -- it will ensure that all makers keep delivering better products for us!
Digital technology has done wonders to the great world digital photography. Its so advanced you can make the color detail from one camera simulate the same color detail of another just by changing the input source of the color profile. For advanced photographers that know how to create custom color profiles, they will be able to create a perfect color profile that can make the image details from their own shooting style sing like a bird.
Keep up the good work!.
Both can suite your needs, but I'll tell you this, when I'm on the sidelines of a pro game, I see a lot of Canon's out there. But those Nikkor lenses ...
[edit]
Oh, didn't look at the date...
photonotes.org/articles/beg...
I find it very useful and hope that you can arrive at a conclusion on your choice after going through it.
Check out the Canon EF 135mm f/2 L USM ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) as an example, at a modest $899.
Hey, you said no dollar limit :-)
If the test above works, then move into the non-program modes (Av, Tv, M, etc.); here you should be able to do things like reduce flash exposure, use high-speed sync, use second curtain sync, and other fancy flash things and even take a picture with the "wrong" exposure.
But in any case, if the camera says the exposure is correct, the flash should fire when you fully depress the shutter button.
Hope this is helpful. If not, please let me know what happens in the test above, or more details.
If you use your camera a great deal or are hard on it (I take my 10D on hiking and camping trips, for example) then the extra money is probably worth it. Otherwise the less expensive (and lighter) XTi is probably a better choice.
If the view is significantly different (e.g. less than 95%, or skewed one way or the other) there may be a misalignment of the mirror, but that's unlikely unless you have been hard on the camera.
There's another "version" of this camera called the XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- technically this cameras is almost the same; the main differences are that the 400D had a plastic (polycarbonate) body, not metal, and some features (notably the spot meter) are disabled via software. Oh, and it's several hundred dollars less.
These cameras are sometimes sold with a "kit lens"; there are several variants of these, and they are packaged by Canon. While generally it's a cheap lenses, the consensus is that they are a great value, so if you don't have lenses already, the kit lens is a good place to start. Some resellers will attempt to sell you packages containing all sorts of neato stuff just so they can charge you and extra $30 or $40 -- buy it own your own. You will need at least one CompactFlash card, and I recommend a spare battery; both can be purchased separately.
So, the 30D comes one way: awesome!
Unfortunately, there is no official Canon FD-EOS converter, and the two mounts aren't compatible. There are some third-party converter rings available, but if you use them you lose infinity focus and you'll have to do everything manually, including metering.
Hope this helps!
This could also depend on which shooting mode you have selected. If one of the programmed modes, make sure it's the right one (e.g. portrait, but not landscape). In one of the "creative" modes, it's more likely to be the metering setting. I had a lovely vacation where I inadvertently changed the metering setting on my 10D for several days and came home to find most of my photos were all messed up. But indoor shots, especially under indoor lighting, can confuse the camera. One thing to do is aim the camera more directly at the subject you want to see the correct exposure on, hold the shutter button halfway down until the exposure is locked, then re-frame the shot and press the shutter the rest of the way. Use the clues that the metering system provides to make sure the auto-exposure system is finding the right thing to concentrate on; if that's right, the exposure should be very good, at least in my experience with a similar camera.
Finally, if you're in M(anual) mode make sure the blinky bar in the viewfinder is at "0", neither + or -.
This is pretty tricky stuff. If you're an old hand at it, it's most likely a setting that's messed up. If this is newer to you, the cool thing about digital is that you can take the same shot over and over and over, adjusting various settings, then look, either at the histogram, or download and look on the computer.
Tom
Sue
If you're worried about the lighter, plastic body, you might try the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a magnesium-clad body to help make it more sturdy. The price tag is higher, but the features and strength might be of value to you. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I would recommend a digital SLR and a couple of lenses. Canon 30D is fine, any other dSLR does good job as well. I use Nikon D50 for example. More important is to find the right lens. You will need lenses that have wide aperture (2.8) through all the zoom. So one lens should be with focal length around 20-55mm/2.8. Another one around 10-20mm/4. Canon, Nikon, Sigma and Tamron all make this type of lenses. In addition you will need good software that eliminates all the wide angle lens effects. I use ImageAlignPRO as a Photoshop plugin.
Also keep in mind that for best portraits you need to be able to shoot from a distance so you can use focal length 50mm or more, better even 70-100mm. But indoors you can not do so if the room is small and you are photographing a group of people. That is why you need wide angle lenses.
It's undoubtedly a ripoff (if it sounds too good to be true...). There are lots of shady "gray market" e-tailers operating out of NY/NJ who offer really really low prices on really really good cameras. The trick is usually that they hit you with the hard sell on expensive accessory bundles (full of cheap junk) and if you don't bite, they drag it out and then eventually cancel your original order claiming to be out of stock or something along those lines.
In short, check the store's reviews at resellerratings.com or shopping.com before you buy from ANY site, unless it's one of the big, inherently trustable ones like Amazon, Buy.com, or Newegg.
Hope this helps!
Any other merchant with a price that is too good to be true is just pulling some sleazy bait and switch, or worse. Margins for retailers are usually less than 10%, and while sometimes merchants will sell a little below cost just to get their volume up so that they can meet monthly quotas (and thus get discounted prices for next month), no one has any special magic deals with Canon or other manufacturers, certainly not any no-name store.
Bud In Spokane
just few tips here. You need to look lenses and cameras separately. For example, you ask how fast a camera focuses. But it depends on lens and light more than on a camera. I have Nikon D50 but I don't think than Nikon is better than Canon or vice versa. Again, everything depends on how much you can spend for lenses. Yes, the lenses that come with kits are not very good. But according to your budget you can not afford Nikon or Canon brand lenses anyway. Because a good Nikon lens itself costs over $1000. So I would look for after market stuff. Sigma 17-70mm 2.8 macro lens costs around $350 for example. And it will certainly do much better job than the Nikon or Canon cheap kit lenses.
The thruth is that both are the cheap models of each brand... so despite they are kind of the same... none of them is spectacular. I'd say that you should take into account everything... let's say: sensor type, lenses, features, viewfinder, lcd, lcd status, price, buffer, continous mode, jpgs, and raw.
If you take all this into account... then you will realize that the Canon is cheap, but also the poorest camera. The viewfinder is the smallest pentamirror available. Buffer... not that bad. No lcd status. Worst kit lens. Sensor type... is CMOS. This is technical, and most of the people does't know what the hell this means. The CMOS show less light and shadow noise, but more chromatic noise. The CCD, more light & shadow noise... but at least Nikon... knows how to take all the chromatic noise out. Light & shadow noise... make the picture look grainy... which is a more film like... while the chromatic noise, is just awful.
In the Nikon side... it's true that it doesn't have an autofocus motor... but all the last nikon lenses (and also those you'll buy, because the ones that has not autofocus motors, are those with f/1.4 max apperture, or f/1.2...... that are simply unaffordable). Nikon has only a 3 point autofocus... which means faster, but sometimes not that accurate. Nikon has a better viewfinder... bigger, but also with a pentamirror.
Talking about dust reduction... you should worry if you are always in the sand... but if you are in the sand... go for a sealed camera. Yes... it's cool to have it... but it's not that you are not cool if you don't.
Something else... those who told you about the L lenses... they just are Canon fans. Nowadays... if you need a really fast lens for those events, like sports... you just use other lens (like the SIGMA 200-500 f/2.8). They are bigger... but also better.
What'd choose... is the Nikon. Though... I've got a Pentax K10 D... and I'd tell you to take a look on this one. Why? simple... it has everthing that this two don't, for only 150 more bucks. Fair? I think it is.
Hope to be helpful,
Alan Schamber.
Bought the Nikon d40x with two Nikor lenses. VR
Enjoy it!
Was deliberating over the 400D / D40X for a while. Just bought the D40X (plus kit lens) and have no regrets (though thats only after a few days of use.....). Both are highly capable pieces of kit, but I think it's critical to actually try both out before comitting to one. I found the Nikon was slightly smaller and lighter and felt more "streamlined" to hold. The only significant things i preferred about the Canon was the inclusion of the self-cleaning function. Dust will build up on the sensor over time if you are often changing the lenses, and I'm not looking forward to manually cleaning mine! Nikon could definitely benefit by having their own version integrated.
The other point would be that you have to purchase auto focus lenses for the Nikon, limiting the variety of lenses available (plus they tend to be more expensive) - a definite advantage for the Canon if you're intending on buying several lenses (not a problem for me, as not planning on going mad on that front).
A major advantage in my eyes is the superiority of the 18-55ml Nikkor kit lens over the Canon. I'm sure it's not as bad as ppl say, but the Nikkor is definitely better. I purchased the Sigma 55-200ml lens and am seriously impressed with the quality and speed of autofocus. Its seriously quick!
Bearing in mind these 2 lenses will probably cover all my needs, the choice to get the D40X was a no-brainer. However, if your budget is bigger and may cover more lenses, the Canon may be the better choice.....
Im brand new to photography...
nikonusa.com/template.php?c...
AF means autofocus, obviously - so there's quite a few. As some ppl mentioned, they may be pricey.. but on the other hand, if you're not into extreme-range sniping of rare bird species etc. you should be perfectly fine with stock 18-55mm + maybe VR 55-200 Nikkor lens which should cover more distance and give you the ability to take nice long range pics without the need to lay down a tripod.
No novelty here, the choice between canon and nikon is down to your long-term lens buying plans and own 'feel' for the camera.
but i dont like the sigma.
nikon rocks
Anyway, good luck in your purchase :)
I've used a D50 up until now owned by my workplace. One guy said to me today that even the D50 was better than the D40x apart from having more pix! He suggested Olympus 410...wasn't keen on not having a hand grip but the 510 had this, anyone know if this is a step up from the D40x?
Also I know the 350d was replaced by the 400d but was this rated any better? Confused now more than ever, I'm wanting a enthusiasts camera but on a beginners budget!...P.S D80 was very heavy!
I have a D40x and a SB400 flash. The SB400's performance is bad than the inbuilt flash , except in the wide angle .
Love my equipment. No complaints. Get some wonderful pictures and have the 18-200 VR just like you. It is fantastic. I need to get another flash--should have bought the Nikon flash but tried to save money--it cost me in the long run. Take care and sorry I am so late on the reply. Don't know how to get this to you directly so if someone does, pass it on. Thanks again to everyone who has helped me.
Are there any SLR cameras (such as Canon D30 or Nikon D80) that could share lens (such as wide angle and telephoto) with a digital camcorder? If so, which brands?
Also, are there any converters that would allow using his old screw mount lens on either the Canon D30 or Nikon D80. He doesn't have the time to research this before our trip, and I don't have the technical expertise to understand what I'm finding.
We've currently purchased the Sony SR42 camcorder, but might be able to return it, if we found another could share lens with a new SLR.
Thanks
As for using the still and video camera lenses together, I have seen adapters to go between the Canon EOS mount and the XL mount of their video cameras, but they were in the realm of near $500...I really don't think they're worth it with the lenses you can get on those video cameras. Going from video to still on the lenses isn't going to be working very well either, unless there's something REALLY specific you want to do with it, I'd stick to dedicated lenses for still and video.
Now, in digital photography, it doesn't completely transfer accurately, but ISO is a holdover from the film days and measures speed of exposure on a digital chip.
From wiki ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_... ):
"The image sensors in digital cameras can be adjusted, or can have their outputs adjusted, in sensitivity to function with metering at any given ISO setting. This is usually done by simply amplifying the output of the image sensor, which increases image noise, sometimes beyond the level that the ISO standard says is acceptable.
Just as in photographic film, greater sensitivity comes with some loss of image quality, though this is visible as image noise rather than grain. The best digital cameras as of 2006 exhibit no perceptible noise at ISO 200 sensitivity, and some produce usable results up to ISO 3200."
Aperture ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture ) settings are used to adjust the lens itself to let light in. It's used in concert with shutter speed to control the amount of light is exposed from the image onto the film/chip.
The Aperture is in essence the "hole" in the lens that the light travels through when the shutter is depressed. It can be adjusted to increase or decrease the light you allow onto the exposure.
The larger the number, the faster the lens/setting, the less light is let in. So, in extremely bright conditions, you want to "stop down" the lens in order to limit the amount of light and reduce overexposure of the image. In low light conditions where more light is requried, a lower setting is used to open up the lens and allow more light to come in.
Aperture settings also affect the "depth of field" of the subject you're shooting, thereby giving it a deep 3D feel or a flat 2D look depending on what you're going for. Smaller stops produce a longer depth of field, allowing objects at a wide range of distances to all be in focus at the same time. Whereas, larger fstops will focus on the main subject, and give softer background focus.
canon30d.dpnotes.com/canon-...
Does anyone know what additions the 40D has (over the 30D),and what, if anything, they've let hit "the cutting room floor?"
TIA - Jesse.
As yet, no announcements have been made regarding the 40D, and all speculation as to what it will involve are just that--speculation. I wish I had some info to give you here, but I'm afraid it doesn't exist yet... or at least doesn't exist outside of Canon HQ. In short, it should be bigger and badder than the 30D, but how much bigger and how much badder is very much up for debate.
Sorry!
Good Luck
It also depends greatly on the type and style of lens you are considering purchasing. The Canon eos 30d ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is probably my favorite dSLR on the market, get that and a high speed zoom lens and you can take pictures at the superbowl...from space.
Good Luck
LONG HOLD TIMES
They HUNG UP ON ME randomly
They LIED about what thing can/cant do
BAIT and SWITCH is there game!
Save the headache go to B and H
I had the same problem as you are I just paid 750 for "the american version" of Tokina 11-16 and ended up with a Japaneses gray market version. They told me it was US version on the phone and charged me 750 US dollars!!!
I'm ready to file agaist those guys. I'm in te process of gathering information. If any one else was mislead, please record and gather informatio as much as you can.
I learned that it is work shelling out a few extra hundred dollars to avoid fly by night companies like this.
I'm appalled that they're a US based company. Probably run by some immigrant who keep going back in forth illegally brining this stuff into the country.
After ordering a new projector for the church, they emailed me to call their customer service, where they said the web page model was a wholesale version without bulb ($728) and a retail version with a bulb was ($849), what did I want?
I needed this unit, I was already delayed because of another web based outfit, Butterfly Photo, bait and switch bull$hit.
This is the very first time I'm faced with such an unscrupulous and crooked merchant. It is text-book example of a "bait and switch" operation.
I bought a JVC Everio GZHD7 camcorder because Quest4Cameras price was about $30 lower than other online shops. I got an email the next day saying I had to call customer service to confirm mailing address. I talked to a store representative who confirmed the address and right away started asking if I wanted an extra battery or lens. I said no. He then said that the camera I bought was not the USA version but the Chinese version. I'm not sure such versions are produced by JVC. He said the Chinese version had the user manual written in Chinese only and if I had any problems with the camera I had to ship overseas to obtain warranty service. He also said it was in my interest to buy the extra battery because the one shipped with the product was a demo battery good for 25 min of recording only. I said no again and I told him I was going back to Quest4Cameras website to look at what other differences existed between both versions of the camera. He then said that they only display the Chinese version in the website, not the USA version of it. I told him I was going to look anyway. At this moment the salesman was getting rude and almost hangs up on me.
When you go to the website there are no notes indicating the battery is a demo battery. It does not say anything about a manual written in Chinese only or Chinese service center only for warranty.
I called again and cancelled the order. Not before telling the salesman about the lack of information in the website. The guy got rude and told the me the order was cancelled and hanged up. By the way, the only way to cancel an order is to call them.
I would never buy from those people. Be very careful when buying from them.
I bought the camera from B&H Photo. Excellent service!
CHUCK
This is a very shady typical NY City scam!
I was totally ripped off by this scam as well as
the fine print credit card scam of buying outside your home range(typ 100miles)
So I guess the only way to fight these scammers is hope that the next planes that
fly into buildings there, fly into theirs!!
Mucho cuidado con Quest4cameras.com, son unos pillos. Si ves que sus precios son demasiado buenos no caigas en la trampa, lo hacen solo para engancharte y luego tratan de venderte aditamentos u otro artículo a precios altos y si no muestras interés en lo que te ofrecen te hacen esperar horas en el teléfono hasta que te desesperas y cancelas tu órden. Ellos no tienen nada que perder!!! Mejor haz tu busqueda en internet y compra donde encuentres el mejor precio, dentro del rango de precios similares.
I HAVE BAD EXPERIENCE WITH THEM!!! DO NOT BUY NOTHING FROM "QUEST4CAMERAS"!!!
I have purchased from me quest4cameras a Canon 40D camera and not more than 4 months, and already broke. knows if not bought from them before.
Do not be fooled
Thank u very much.
I have a 350D and it shoots just fine at lower ISOs (and pretty good at higher ones as well), but if you are asking what I need as a beginner, my answer is the 400 XTI), and as a mid-level professional, the 30D is my choice.
Canon has a professional line which includes the 1D MKIII and the 1DS MKII cameras which start in about the 4,500.00 range and go up from there.
The other decision for me would be to ask myself how many images I would be taking with the camera. The 30D has a higher rated shutter box (rated up to 100,000 actuations or shutter clicks). There is no rating on the 400D, but I guarantee it's not going to be 100,000.
In relation to professional photography, I can take up to 2,500 images in one day.. If you camera can only do 50,000 image impressions before the shutter box starts going, one is going to need a lot of cameras for backup.
-Put camera in Record mode (to take photo)
-Push Drive/ ISO
-You have 6 seconds to make your selection (using the main dials to select). Scroll through the options (Single-frame, high speed continuous, low speed continuous, self-timer) until you get to Self Timer and select it (should offer 10 or 3 seconds). I'm not sure how to select it. =( But hopefully that'll get you through.
1) If the store is based in Brooklyn, New York (and regardless of its name), stay clear!!
and
2) Before buying from anyone, note the seller's name and phone number, then go to the national site of the Better Business Bureau (www.bbb.org) and see if the seller has any record with that organization.
So at best, I'd say their a mixed bag and at worse they are exactly what people put them out to be - very poor on customer service.
Another possibility is a back light situation that is causing the camera to stop down on auto mode, even when taking a flash. Beware of that.
Thanks Agian,
Eugene
After that, I'm thinking just after CES in January when new camera models are announced.
What you can do is to repeat the steps taken by the technician, which probably is as follows :
Turn the camera on, leave the mode dial at Auto if you do not want to change it, and press the ' info ' button with the index finger of your right hand.
The LCD will light up showing all the functions that you can control for shooting mode.
Press the zoom button at the bottom left corner of the LCD and you can now change the Flash setting.
Look for the box with a ' lightning 'sign at the bottom left corner. It should be lighted up, otherwise use the directional button to select it. Press OK.
This leads to the next screen showing 3 options :
Auto, Red Eye reduction, Flash off.
Select Auto and press OK.
Press the Info button or wait a few seconds, the lighted screen will close and you can take pictures with the flash popping up automatically in dim light, provided, of course, that the camera is not faulty.
I'd also set your white balance to indoors when you're indoors. You can also adjust your White Balance by holding a piece of white paper in front of the lens in a well lit area and then using the camera's white balance setup utility.
Another tip is to go to Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
any suggestions ?
much appreciated !
If you already have the Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), I would not recommend purchasing the 10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). While the body is a little more sturdy, you're going to lose resolution on an older model. If you're looking to upgrade to the D series, without losing as much (in both resolution and your budget), I would go with the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is two generations up from the 10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), maintains over 8MP resolution, and has the great quality of this camera line. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Not a problem. If you feel we have answered your question appropriately, please mark the best answer selection. If not, please feel free to elaborate with more. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
Larry
Also useful: Google on "ring flash" for lots of sites.
The official Canon Ring Flash: usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
The official Canon Macro URL: usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
Enjoy, Larry
Sounds like you may be having a very merry Christmas AND a Happy New Year! Enjoy. Larry
I've shot sports with both the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They work great for sports photography. The thing you'll need to get is a "fast" lens (one with f/2.8 or less and with good zoom). While the lens is expensive, you'll need it with either camera body when you start to work in lower light situations or indoors. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Although the minimal shutter speed of Rebels is 1/4000 (30D has 1/8000), I think Rebels are fast enough even when shooting sports (usually 1/2000 is fast enought to "freeze" the motion). More important would be a fast (telephoto) lens.
Michal
When looking at sample photos shot with both cameras, it seems to me that the EOS 30D gives a more natural image with better highlights and sharpness. Course, you lens may vary.
If you're going on safari, I would recommend something with at least 300mm of zoom. I know the lenses by Canon can get very expensive at that length, so you might try a lens by Tamron ( tamron.com/lenses/default-p... ) or Sigma ( sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lense... ). Both are making excellent lenses these days (I personally own 2 Tamron lenses for use on my EOS camera and love them).
For your trip, you could go one of two ways: (1) A telephoto lens that gives more versatility or (2) a fixed length lens that will offer slightly higher quality photos. Personally, I would go with a fixed length since I already have a good telephoto. Something like this 300mm Sigma f/2.8 lens ( sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lense... ). If you do want the versatility, then you might try a 120-300mm Sigma f/2.8 lens ( sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lense... ). Both have a maximum aperture of f/2.8 that does not vary with zoom length (hence the higher price). If you feel you won't need the faster glass, you can save money by going to a narrower aperture. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I've never used the software that come with my Canon's either. You should be just fine with Adobe.
Andrew
You can also use some of the programs like the , Sports mode, or even the night portrait mode for low light.
The 30D doesn't have the dust cleaning feature. Here is a great chart that outlines the differences between the models (scroll down past the large photo, the chart is in green and black):
dpreview.com/reviews/canone...
I do own the Canon 40D, and absolutely love it. My main reason for buying it, though, was that I owned Canon 35mm equipment already. It is my opinion that when you're dealing with cameras of this level and you already have existing equipment, you need a pretty compelling reason to switch systems. In other words, either a Nikon or a Canon DSLR is going to do an excellent job.
In terms of a Nikon equivalent, it gets a bit tricky because the two systems tend to "slot" together, meaning there are no exact side-by-side comparisons to make, instead the cameras will sort of fit around each other in terms of price and features between competitors. The closest comparison I've found to the Canon 40D is the Nikon D300... which is quite a bit more expensive than the 40D and has some more advanced features. The D300 has a more advanced AF system, more advanced lighting systems (d-lighting, metering, white balance) than the 40D. This explains the price tag.
Aside from my existing ownership of Canon equipment, I bought the 40D because the D300 offers a lot of things I don't think I would use. This is just me personally; even if I hadn't owned the Canon lenses already, because I shoot in Manual a lot but don't tend to adjust many settings that often, I didn't feel it was necessary to pay extra for loads of features on the D300. Some of them are certainly handy, don't get me wrong; but if you don't use Autofocus or the LCD that much, then you won't really care that the camera has super-advanced versions of those things. That was my position. I hope that makes sense.
You, owning Nikon equipment already, may very well feel differently. The D300 might be what you want to look at; you can also consider the older model, the D200, for a price that's more in line with what the Canon 40D is at.
I hope that helps!
Edited to add: Regarding dust cleaning, it's a great feature. It helps more than you'd think it would, frankly. The D300 does have a self-cleaning sensor, the D200 does not. However... having said that, it is possible to manually clean a sensor that doesn't clean itself, and it's not a terrible thing to do; I've done it and found it pretty simple.
Canon digital cameras can only communicate with Canon Speedlite flash models with names ending in EX. If your Canon flash unit has a model name which ends with E or EZ or anything else then its automated features will not work with a Canon digital EOS camera.
As for flash units manufactured by other makers, check its specifications to see if it supports “E-TTL flash metering.” If it does not, or only lists “Canon TTL flash metering” then it most likely will not work. But older Canon E and EZ series Speedlites won't work with Canon DSLRs either. It's not just a third party problem.