What you may want to do is run in shutter priority mode. This will allow you to set the shutter speed as fast as you need, while the camera chooses the aperture. And obviously, the faster the lens, the better. Pan with your subject. Pre-focus (press shutter halfway down to focus) then if the focus changes, refocus. Experiment with the sports mode. And set your white balance for the bright lights. And experiment. I'd also try bracketing, this is where your camera goes -1, 0, +1 on the aperture.

It's pretty much for you to determine. If you take alot of stellar photography, for instance, you may want to use one of the custom settings to set your ISO, Shutter and aperture to best support that kind of image.

Canon has the instructions here ( usa.canon.com/app/images/se...  ).

Don't worry about it. One is a meta data file, i believe. They're about 1/10th the size. and it's okay to delete them.

Yes, it is - it's called Bulb...

See it here:

expertvillage.com/video/109... 

I believe you're referring to the Live View function of the 40D. You can access this function by pressing the SET button on the back of the camera.

Yes, it will work on the Canon 40D. Just make sure you get the Canon EOS mount. Although this lens has OS, it has not been as highly rated as the Sigma 50-500 (without OS) which has better glass.

The sigma with OS has optical stabilization which can give you up to 2 extra stops of stabilization when shooting small apertures (large f numbers) or slow shutter speeds, or both. The Sigma 50-500 (also known as the Bigma) without OS will likely need to be tripod mounted to get those extra exposure stops that you can get with the OS and no tripod.



I am not familiar with the Canon 50-500 IS, but go to CameraLabs.com and take a look at their lens reviews. They may have all 3 lenses reviewed there and you will get a very good comparison with the same photos taken with each lens. Then you can decide which you think is worth the money. There is also a DSLR lens buyer guide that could be helpful.



Have fun.

Most likely a spot on the mirror. Have the mirror cleaned by a camera pro the first time and have him/her show you how to do it yourself.

Don't use compressed air in a can or bottle to clean the mirror.

Bag, can you be more specific?

I don't know about Nikon, but I own a Canon EOS 40D since November 26th, 2007, have swapped lenses many, many times (I own the EF-S 17-85mm, the EF-S 10-22mm and the EF 70-300mm) and under many different circumstances, and I have never, ever gotten an Err99.

Over the past 5 years I have owned two 20D's, one 5D, two 40D's and now one 50D.



I have seen err99 2 times, once 4 years ago with the 20D and a rented 100-400 lens. My second err99 was the 2nd time I turned on the new 50D with a Sigma 300mm f2.8 lens on it. I removed the lens and put it back on, and have never seen the error again. I think it was a contact problem that was fixed by moving things around. (I noticed my Sigma lenses are a little loose on both the 40D and 50D bodies)



Don't worry yourself sick or into paralysis. There is always some risk with electronic devices, if it happens to you also, then you just have to send it back and get another one that works fine. The risk is the same with all the major SLR manufacturers. The highest risk period for one of these products is always the first 1-3 months. The 40D is a mature product and the operators know what they are doing with this camera better than ever. The price is lower than ever also, so now it the BEST time to get a 40D.



Find the camera you want and buy it!

If I had a crystal ball I'd be laying on a beach somewhere paying others to type messages on the internet. I do know one very wise man who foresaw the current financial crisis way back in 2003 when everybody else was riding the re-finance wagon and ignoring the basic fact that Corporate America is continually sending jobs overseas while concurrently laying off their own customers.



If you regularly watch the news you know the Corporations are still at it, business is down so they lay off even more people. Less people have disposable income so sales goes down more, and the cycle continues because the Corporations refuse to admit their tactics have created their own doom. We are not at the bottom yet, and nobody knows how low the bottom will be or when we will start to pull out of it.



Yes, chances are the price could drop a little more but I dare not say how much, the 40D body only is going for as little as $800, that's 600 less than it started last year. With the XSi body going for $600, down from $899 just a few months ago, significant drops have already happened.



Watch for Black Friday specials, that's only 1 week away. If the Holiday sales are as lousy as suspected then maybe there will be one more price drop just before, but more likely just AFTER, Christmas. It really depends on actual sales and inventories, I cannot predict those. The week between Xmas and New Years is often the best time to get a good deal on a new car also, especially December 31st.



Happy shopping!

I suspect you are using the camera in full Auto mode, is this true? (Mode dial set to green box) If so, possibly all you need to do is change the Dial to the "P" position, this is Auto mode minus the pop-up flash.



If that alone does not solve your problem, at the bottom of the Tools Menu #2 (yellow wrench with 2 dots) is a Flash Control section, you can turn it completely off there, and also manage the external flash functions if you have the 580EX-II or 430EX-II mounted.



One more thing, sometimes the flash will pop up in low light if the Auto-Focus assist beam is enabled, you can disable that in the Custom Functions-III screen.

Just about any DSLR will work for you, MR. The key is getting a good macro lens for getting those upclose shots. Remember, an SLR is a system, more than a camera. Bodies will come and go, but the lenses will be used from year to year. So, make your choice on the quality of lenses out there. Currently, the leading lens makers are Nikon and Canon, which would lead to the 40D, but also the Canon XSi is a good choice that will grow with you.



on the nikon side - the D60 is where I'd be looking.

Ain't it fun? I've had mine for about 2 months and I can't stop shooting with it. Reminds me of when I was minoring in photography at college. Good times.



enjoy!

The camera would be great for it, but the main issue is going to be the lens. You want something capable of good zooms and close-up work. The camera could definitely handle the job, but you may have to do some shopping for the perfect lens for the situation.

There's a good column online about this here ( digital-photography-school....  ). You have a great lens for it. The usual settings for me are, iso 1600, camera set to sports. This setting should give you f2.8 and max shutter speed for the lighting conditions at the moment. I hope this helps.

Have you pushed the ISO to 3200 in enhanced mode? How can you do that?

Karina,



Canon makes a 70-300mm f4-5.6 IS USM lens that has received good reviews. I have it an it is a good lens. The 40D kit lens, 28-135mm IS USM is a very good all around lense. Canon also makes a 55-200mm USM lens but I have not read any reviews on it. There are many other lenses available, also. Go to B&H Camera on the web and check out all the available Canon lenses. Of course, there are Sigma, Tokina and other 3rd party lenses available, as well.



I have both the Canon 40D and the 450D. The 40D is a much more robust camera. It can do 6.5 frames/sec. It has live view, 10.1 MP. It has to shut down live view for a short time to autofocus while in live view. It has many more user selectable functions than the 450D. The 450D is smaller and lighter, 3.5 frames/sec. It also has live view and can focus while in live view without having to get out of live view, but it is a bit slower. But, it also has the same focus function in live view as the 40D, ie, it has 2 auto-focus functions while in live view. The 450D has 12.1 MP, but I honestly cannot tell the difference between pictures taken on the 40D and the 450D. The 450D uses the SD memory card while the 40D uses the compact flash memory card. The compact flash card is more robust, in my opinion, than the SD card.



The 40D is my main camera. The 450D is used as my backup camera to take hand-held shots while the 40D is on the tripod. They're both excellent cameras. The build quality of the 40D is quite a bit higher than the 450D. That's the main reason I use it the most, especially when in the field in unwelcoming weather. Hope this helps.

It depends where you see it advertised and how. It is always indicated whether it includes some lenses or not. Of course, the price varies accordingly.

I use the EF 70-300 IS USM lens for distance shots. It is a fairly well ranked zoom. I use the EF-S 10-22 USM for really close, wide angle shots. A 50 mm lense (possibly with a macro setting) would also be good for close shots.

Dear George, I want to thank you for your time and the info. I am one of those people who loves to take pictures but don't always understand the talk. You have been very helpful. I have a direction in which to look. Sincerely, Diane

I assume you mean EF lenses. And sure. They can be used. As long as they're EF compatible, you're good to go.

The 40D os simply an all around wonderful camera. I found converters for old Minolta lenses, and although I must use the camera in manual mode, it takes great pictures. So using older Canon EF lenses would be even that much better.

For portraits, a 24-105mm dedicated lens is optimal. The best are Canon brands. Period. However, Photography magazine recently stated that both Tokina and Sigma are giving Canon a run for their money these days and for a cheaper price.

AJ Melvin covered a lot of good info on wide angle lenses, the Canon EF-S 10-22 is the sharpest of the crop-camera wides zooms. The only lens he didn't mention which many consider the best price/performance value for your 40D is the Tokina 12-24 f4. At about $200 less than the Canon EF-S 10-22, and with much better build quality, this lens is the choice among professionals who are using crop cameras and want to save money vs the Canon or Nikon versions. However, all the talk about widest angle lenses best for landscapes is not what you originally asked for, so I will quickly move on to your intended portraits topic.



I have owned about 10 different lenses over the past 4 years, seeking "the best of the best" both for my personal satisfaction and also for making money doing events and weddings. My favorite zoom is the Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, because it captures high quality photos in more settings than any other standard focal-length zoom lens, period. If you are interested in taking photos at night or dimly lit indoor places where a flash is not allowed or desired, the IS of this lens will help you capture images you never thought possible. At $1,000 it's not the first lens someone on a tight budget will think of.



My 2nd choice for your requirement is the lens "Mr. Helpful" James DeRuvo suggested, the 24-105 f4L has a larger zoom range and covers the portrait head-shot closeup focal lengths up to 105mm, gets you a LOT closer than the 55mm does. Another consideration is this lens is probably the best quality single travel lens you can buy. I used it last summer on a 5D and captured some amazing photos in San Francisco, and didn't need to carry around any other lenses. Also priced at about $1,000, you can get this lens for about $700 if you buy it in a kit with the 5D camera, then immediately sell the camera while it's still new and before it loses value. Watch for Spring Canon rebates that are expected to be starting in the next month or so.



My 3rd choice for a single zoom lens that can capture both full body and head shots is the Tamron SP 28-75 f2.8. It focuses slower than the Canon lenses but is hard to beat for sharpness, and the price of $275 is just right for someone on a budget. This is the lens that got me into professional level events and weddings. After my friends saw the photos I took with this lens I started getting regular requests to photograph birthday parties, anniversaries and graduations.



As good as all these zooms are, there are still other options you should consider at some point. Fixed focal length "primes" offer the sharpest and lowest distortion photos achievable, along with wider apertures that produce more pleasing out of focus backgrounds or "bokeh". These not-too-expensive lenses would be GREAT for your stated purposes:



Full body shots: Canon 35mm f2.0 for about $225

Head shots or distant body shots: Canon 50mm F1.8; the $75-85 cheapo "nifty-fifty", excellent images at lowest price.

Tight Head shots: Canon 85mm F1.8; at about $350 the #1 recommended portrait lens on the planet.



Special mention: Portrait/macro dual purpose lenses:

The Canon EF-S 60mm f2.8 macro for about $399 is one of the sharpest lenses made by Canon, almost non-existent distortion and the ability to focus up-close for real macro work.

An even better dual purpose, the Sigma 70mm f2.8 macro lens also about $399 has even better sharpness that rivals the impressive 180mm macro lenses, and it can be used on full frame cameras also. This lens is on my "need-to-buy" list.



Happy Shopping!

Thank you all for the answers!

Thank you George for a really fantastic outline!

24-105 f4L looks attractive, but f4 embarrasses me..

it is strange nobody mentioned 24-70 f2.8 ... Any opinions?

George is dead on here. Thanks to portals like eBay, you know longer have to worry about the implications of trying one platform only to move on to another. You can always sell to another one just like you and apply what you earn to the cost of the new item. That's my long standing rule ... don't try something new unless you can sell what you're aren't using to pay for it.

VERY NICE photos AJ, thanks for sharing it. Great photography and awesome subject.



The Sigma 18-50 2.8 EX is one of the many lenses I have owned and I liked it ALMOST as much as the Tamron 28-75.



Try again to get that same photo without a flash or the strobe you used. The Canon 17-55 2.8 IS is the only lens I know of that will even come close.

That's a good breakdown, AJ. When performance is comparable and the price is over half, only a purist wouldn't pick up that Sigma lens!



Mine's a 67 Mustang. Convertible. Had on in my mispent youth and I miss it terribly!

Thank you George and James. I am proud that i have met and come to know you both. I have learnt a great deal from you guys. I think i will mark both of you down as my photography "gurus".Please send me a copy or link of any of your posts.

I have a question about sigma:

What is the difference between sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 II EX DG APO HSM Macro and Sigma 70-200 2.8-II EX DG Macro.That is my next lense.

I was very much interested in Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM,Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM but i chose to go the other way. I may at some point buy one or both of those.

I think we start a topic on TELEPHOTO LENSES FOR EOS CAMERAS.

The EX-Series Speedlites made by Canon definitely work the best. There are several different types, with different brightness, displays, refresh rate, etc, and what it comes down to is you get what you pay for. So you can look at several different ones online and check out the one in your price range. Hope this helps.

I'd advise a good 28-105 zoom, or there abouts ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...  ). There are also a few good third party options ( sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lense...  ).

canon 24-105 f/4 L IS USM will work great for your needs

This is one of the best Canon general purpose lenses made... it will work well for landscape.

And it is great for portrait.

And it is perfect for groups and full-body portrait.

Take this one.

AJ, outstanding overview of zooms for Canon lenses. Your're right about the SIGMA. Lately Photography magazine has been saying that along with Tokina, Sigma has improved quality of their lenses to the point where they're giving Canon a run for their money considering they're for budgets that can't really swing the price of a Canon zoom.

Angus,



This camera is terrific, but there are others out there. The Nikon D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) is one of the best values out there right now. It is a great entry level dSLR that works with some great lenses. If you're looking for a favorite by professionals and your budget isn't that much of a question, you might try the Canon 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) with advanced light metering and custom settings that you might like for winter sports photography.



In any case, lenses and filters are going to be key for the specific photography you are looking for. I would get a polarized filter to reduce glare. To avoid blue hues in your photos (often seen from glare on snow), I would get an 85B filter to adjust the light accordingly. As for lenses, I would invest in a good 70-300mm lens. Since you can't get up close and personal with the athletes, the greater magnification will help you fill the frame better.



I hope this helps.



Andrew

Angus,



I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any questions or issues.



Andrew

Angus,



I have a couple different lens types that I use. What camera are you going to go with?



Andrew

i was also looking at the nikon d300

as long as they are EF lenses, they'll work great. I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Gery,



I've had very good luck with Lexar and the SanDisk Ultra II ( amazon.com/SanDisk-PERFORMA...  ) lines. Batteries, I usually go with the actual Canons for backups, but I do have a couple backups that I got cheap on eBay that haven't given me any issues in the 2(+) years I've had them. As for filters and other accessories, you can get by decently with deals on eBay. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

I am one who likes to try different things, and have used all of the folowing list, they are listed in order of speed, slowest first. I am a bit of a computer geek who likes performance, but for cost reasons didn't start with the fastest. If I had it to do over again I would just start with one of the largest and fastest available which I could afford. In the long run I spent more money than neccesary to get what I need, because I no longer use the first few cards I bought. I tested read and write speeds using HDTach PC hard drive benchmark software, which tests flash & USB drives also. I have never noticed a speed change at the end of a card, the benchmarks show both read & write speeds are constant across the entire card. That may have changed on the newest and largest cards, but I seriously doubt it knowing a lot about how the chips are made.



Slowest-- (that I have owned)

Sandisk Ultra-II cards in 512MB and 1GB sizes.

Intron 2GB 80X (this was really cheap and labeled 80X, but didn't perform like 80X, very close to the Ultra-II)

Lexar Professional 2GB 80X - This was the fastest stuff available in it's hayday.

Sandisk Extreme-III 16GB, used in a 5D for a long trip and never filled up the one card.

Fastest-- That I have used

Lexar Professional 8GB 133X - Like the previous 80X generation, this was the fastest available in it's hayday.



Now there is Sandisk Extreme-IV and Lexar 300X. I think Lexar still has a slight edge, but you wont notice it in the 40D, and maybe not on the computer either. The Lexar 300X was developed concurrently with the Canon 1D Mark-III, that camera can utilize the speed of the latest cards with its dual Digic-III processor chips. The 40D cannot write to these cards fast enough to make the extra cost worthwhile, but the faster operation on the computer may justify the cost to many high tech fanatics.

David,



You might have dirty connections in your flash shoe. Try rubbing a pencil eraser on the connectors to clean them. You might find that does the trick. Good luck.



Andrew

Rough rule of thumb for sharp prints from digital cameras is 300dpi. That puts the Canon at about 13X9 and the Nikon at about 14 X 9.5 inches. Not that you can't go larger, but at some point the pixels begin to show up. Here is a nice intro page on the subject --



graphicssoft.about.com/od/a... 

My pleasure and glad I could be of help.

For starters, either one will get you great results for indoor sports. Each system has slight advantages over the other, but overall the end result photo quality is going to be very close, so close that the user experience and personal preferences may become the deciding factors. Reading reviews and getting feedback from others who use the gear you are considering is a smart move on your part. Dont forget to go into a camera store and "play" with both systems before deciding. You want to learn your new camera as fast as possible, chances are one of the two cameras will "Feel" better to YOU, the menus and buttons will make more sense to YOUR brain, that info cannot be learned from reading reviews.



I own all Canon gear myself, but have been watching the industry progression closely for the past 3-4 years. When Nikon announced the D300 and D3 a few months ago I almost went into shock. From reading the initial spec sheets and Nikon promo information, I expected the D300 to totally trounce the 40D in all technical aspects, and was seriously considering selling all my gear and switching to Nikon. So now you know, I'm not a Canon fanboy, but rather a fan of the quality equipment that I own and use, which happens to be all Canon right now.



The color difference is gone with this latest round of cameras, both are 14-bit and therefore produce the highest color accuracy currently available in a 35mm DSLR. So color is not a deciding factor anymore.



High ISO performance is nearly equal now, I have read reviews that claim the D300 now has a slight edge, but others that say Canon still has the lowest noise at ISO 1600. Considering the Nikon has more megapixels crammed into the same space, it would be a remarkable achievement for Nikon to be equal. Being very technically savvy, I give Canon the slight edge because of the not-too-complicated physics involved. I say slight edge, only the darkest rooms and fastest movement will bring out the differences, which are not as large as the the difference between the previous generation D200 which was far behind the Canon 20D & 30D. So, ISO performance is close enough that I tend to think it also is not a deciding factor, at least not as much as what is next.



Speed: The 40D can rip off up to 6.5 frames per second for up to 75 images. The D300 is close at 6 frames/sec but for 100 frames. With the optional battery grip the D300 can do up to 8 frames/sec. Decent advantage goes to Nikon especially when you consider the focusing mechanisms. 40D has 9 cross-point sensors. The D300 has 51 total sensors and 15 that are cross-point. Knowing the Nikon is processing information from 51 sensors and saving more photos at higher megapixles, it's clear the Nikon is a quicker thinker, and that translates into a higher percentage of shots in focus. Here is a tangible advantage, one that directly relates to what you plan use the camera for.



The LCD screen on the D300 is nothing less than amazing. Makes the Canon look like it has a cell phone screen in comparison, Oh wait, it does! This you have to see to understand whether it makes a difference to you.



As for lenses, Canon has a larger selection and more versatile overall system. Nikon has an edge in image quality at the wide-angle end, especially with the new 14-24 f2.8. Canon has a better selection overall but especially at the long end. If you watch professional sports you will notice all the lenses on Football & Baseball fields are the big white Canons. The Nikon D3 should start changing that scenario though.



Here is a list of a good starting semi-to-pro setup for each camera: Todays prices at B&H Photo Video

Canon 40D $1,149

Canon 50mm 1.8    $89

Canon 17-55 2.8 IS $929

Canon 70-200 2.8L IS $1,569

EX-580 flash    $359

Canon TOTAL $4,095



d300 $1,799

NIkkor 50mm 1.8 $109

Nikkor 17-55 2.8 $1,199

Nikkor 70-200 2.8 VR $1,625

SB-800 flash $315

Nikon TOTAL $5,047



I do have one strong Canon bias when it comes to lenses. Nikon has nothing to answer to the lens that stays on my 40D the most. The EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS with Image stabilization is amazing. Nikon charges a couple hundred more for their 17-55 2.8 DX, but it doesn't have the VR Vibration Reduction. The image stabilization makes low light photography possible in scenarios you would normally never even consider taking a shot. When trying to make money, every advantage you have in your gear helps to insure you WILL sell some good photos.



Final words for now (I'm getting sleepy), you really cant go wrong with either system. Just go look at them and get a feel for how they work.



Happy shopping!

'The dark side'??!!!



Once you've used digital you won't go back. And what the hell sort of photography course were you attending that didn't give you any grounding with digital gear or editing?



The recommended Canon gear is all excellent. I'd have a 10-22 EF-S in there too I reckon.

George thanks for the back up lol. Sorry i was classically trained nothing against digital just making jokes. Yes we did talk about the digital backs, if you can afford it do it, they are amazing. I ended up with the nikon i already had two lenses for it just made since, im still getting used to it but so far got no complaints.

From what I've read, this doesn't digitally zoom the image, it merely magifies the image so you can get a really sharp focus. It doesn't affect the photograph, per se.



And you wouldn't want it to digitally zoom the image anyway. Digital zoom doesn't really zoom. It "blows up" the pixels to create a cropped and enlarged image ... but an image that is artifacted, soft and suffering from camera shake. It's a marketing gimmick and should never be relied on.



Especially when you get better results by cropping and enlarging through Photoshop.





BTW if you haven't already done so, there's a firmware update available ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...  ) that you should download and install.

i have a 28-135 canon ultrasonic image stabilizer this is a good all rounder for what you are looking for.

Well I'd first ask what is your budget, all in? If we know how much you're planning to spend, then we can offer some ideas. If there's a shoestring budget or if money is no object, either way there's great cameras out there. Most made by Nikon and Canon.



For Nikon, there's the Nikon D40X ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and the D80. For Canon, you're looking at the entry level Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) or the new XSi, the EOS 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ), or if money is no option, then you'd be looking at the EOS-1Ds Mark III.



Where you really want to think about tossing your money is in the glass. Better lenses make for better images, plain and simple. and if you're going into business, you want the best money can buy.



So let us know what your budget is and we can give you some ideas.

Well, certainly the cameras I mentioned are in that price range with room to spare. But don't forget the need for quality lenses, a good lighting kit, flash, etc.

Hi Steve,



That's almost an open ended question, because you specify a large and diverse set of lenses. I'm sure you have read the specs for the camera, and your question is based on understanding that the "up to" portion of the phrase "up to 6.5 fps continuous" means there are multiple variables which affect the actual frames per second in a specific shooting condition. You also know that different brands of lenses have different focusing speeds, and slower focusing may limit how many photos you get in a certain time-frame after pressing the shutter button. Simply put, you want to know which lenses allow you to obtain the 6.5fps.



The simple "technically correct" answer is this, 6.5fps can be achieved with ALL lenses, regardless of brand. Let me pretend I'm a Canon rep who knows the official company terminology and methods for explaining this spec to customers. For starters, when SLR camera makers defined this "specification", they limited it's scope of operations to what they can predict. Focus speed varies from lens to lens and from one situation to another with the same lens, so focus speed is NOT a consideration for this spec, but we all know it does affect the real life "overall speed" of operations. The official fps calculation begins when the shutter closes for the first shot, and it's assumed the shots will be repeated at the same focus point. Another assumption is that the photos you are taking are not a long exposure, that also limits total time "per frame". The next assumption is that each photo is being stored in the camera buffer memory which is much faster than writing to the compact flash memory card. The 6.5fps ends when the camera memory is full and it must wait until data is saved on the memory card, then you are limited to the speed of memory card which may be only 1fps.



Back to real world overall speed, which I think is your primary concern. General statement: Canon EF lenses which have the USM focus motor (Ultra-Sonic Motor) are the fastest focusing lenses you can buy for a Canon SLR. The lenses that do not have USM in the product name will focus much slower, more like the focus speed of aftermarket lens companies such as Tamron. Many Sigma lenses come with the HSM motor (Hyper-Sonic Motor) which is a similar design concept that operates "almost as fast" as Canon USM. Sigma HSM lenses are the only aftermarket lenses that don't significantly reduce focus speed to achieve the lower costs.



The simplest answer to what I believe your original question is goes like this, "Canon EF lenses with the USM focus motor allow you to obtain the fastest overall >Shots Per Minute<" (I just now made that up), followed closely by Sigma lenses which use the HSM motor.



Hope this helps!

i have a canon 40d and a 28-135 lens this will give me a 6.5 pps. really Man how many pics to you want in just one sec??.

I have the 2.8 and that I use for gym volleyball shots. I set my camera to TV mode at 1/250 shutter speed. Pictures come out great....no flash.

I guess I should clarify! I shoot basketball without my flash and (here's where I can not remember what to do) set my ISO to 1000. I tried this last week and the photos were both blurry and dark. I have used my D10 before on A setting? where I only set the ISO and the photos were sharp though a little dark (fixed by photoshop) It's a shame that I have had classes and can not remember the setting from last year!!! I can use this same setting during a football game with my flash and the photos are excellant!

What type of shooting are you planning to do?

I have had the chance to handle and explore the features of the 40D at an exhibition a few weeks ago and i quite liked the 40D. If you have use for the speed of the burst mode it works very well and It blazed through shots at 5-6fps faster than I had anticipated. Also in handled well. The 40D has a faster processor. the 40D has a little less noise at at higher ISO levels, and when used in conjunction with the in-camera noise reduction it can produce quite useable images at even ISO 3200. I do think that the 40D has an advantage in most areas and is worth the steep jump in price.

At a glance the XTi and 40D appear somewhat similar. Closeup and considering technical details it becomes apparent that is not the case.



The 40D is in a league of it's own because of it's speed and good ISO 1600 performance at a price currently around $1,150. I like to think of it as the economy version of the $4,300 1D MK-III. Of course, the 40D is far behind the capabilities of the 1D MK-III, and likewise the XTi is far behind the capabilities of the 40D. Notice all three cameras are 10 MegaPixels, but yield three different end results in demanding situations.



For sports shooters and professionals, the 40D is easily worth the extra dollars due to its speed, better focus accuracy, and better low light performance. The 400D/XTi can take great photos, but it's not designed to be a workhorse or speed demon, it cannot handle situations the more advanced 40D is designed for. The darker it gets, the faster the action moves, the more evident it becomes these two cameras have more differences than similarities.



Similarities between the 40D & XTi:

Spec sheet blurbs have lots of details that appear similar at first, but I think a good summary statement goes more like this...

Both cameras are made by Canon,

Both produce 10.1MP images,

Both can use the same EOS lenses and flashes,

Both save photos on Compact Flash cards,

Both have the same "sensor dust removal" feature.

But that's about it, inside and out these cameras are very different.



XTi has a smaller, plastic body. 3fps economy shutter, previous generation slower Digic II processor, etc.

40D has larger sturdier magnesium body. 6.5fps longer-life shutter. Latest & faster Digic III processor, newer and faster focus system with 9 cross-type sensors, XTi only has only 1 cross-type focus sensor (in the center, the other 8 sensors are only one axis- I think horizontal).



Primary reasons to get the 40D:

In sports, weddings, airshows, and even childrens birthday parties, things move and change very fast. The photographer needs to be ready to quickly take a shot at any moment. Focus speed affects the number of photos you can take, and it impacts your ability to capture the event of the moment which often lasts only a split-second. Focus accuracy affects the keeper ratio, how many of the shots will actually show what you were attempting to capture. The 40D Focusing Mechanism is far better and faster. The shutter is also MUCH faster at up to 6.5 frames per second (vs 3 for the XTi).



The 40D viewfinder is bigger and brighter, you can see what you are shooting much better, also great when you want to manual focus.



The 40D has interchangeable focus screens, so you can customize the camera to your needs and photography style.



The 40D and 400D/XTi both use the same base sensor chip, but the 40D has larger micro-lenses over each pixel, so it has less "dead space" between each pixel, meaning each pixel is therefore a little better defined, pulls in more light and has less noise and better performance at higher ISO speeds. 40D low-light/high-ISO performance is better.



Closing statement:

If you dont care about snapping 6 photos per second, are happy using a flash more often and dont plan to push the limits of low light photography, dont plan to take more than 50,000 photos over the cameras lifetime, dont plan to do a lot of manual focusing (willing to live with smaller darker viewfinder), dont care if a certain percentage of photos are out of focus when things are moving fast, then the Xti will probably be all the camera you need. If all this is important to you, then you may be able to justify the extra cost to yourself.



Good luck!

Lorelee why don't you consider the Xsi instead of Xti in your comparision with the 40D?

Annie,



If you want a good, all-round camera, I would suggest a good telephoto lens. I use a Tamron, and think it works great. While the Canon lenses do focus faster, they cost about twice as much for a comparible lens. I would suggest trying the Tamron 18-250mm lens ( amazon.com/Tamron-18-250mm-...  ) for Canon cameras. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Photo Gallery ( gallery.blackdoorphotos.com/  )

it really depends on what you want to photograph. whether it will be close-up or everyday objects or even astrophotography. different lenses for different suitabilities. for starting off i would sugest a canon 28-135 ultrasonic image stabilizer lens. Good luck.

Rhanif,



This isn't your normal point and shoot. If the lens that you purchased with the camera is the 18-55mm, it should work just fine for shooting portraits. You can get fantastic photos with your basic lenses or a telephoto, but you have to make sure you have the right lighting as well.



What type of setting are you trying to take the photos in? If it is in low light, I would recommend getting a tripod to steady the camera. You could also invest in a bounce flash with a diffusor cap. It will help create a softer lighting effect which helps reduce any harsh shadows behind your subject(s). I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Portrait Gallery ( gallery.blackdoorphotos.com...  )

Nick,



The closest competetor from Canon looks to be the new EOS 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ), while it doesn't have the "live display" on the LCD or 12MP resolution, it is still a great camera (and costs about $700 less). Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

also are there others i should consider, am i looking at the "Right" ones, if there's more that i'm not thinking of what are they etc...??

I agree with aditya....Choosing the right camera depends a lot on feel as well as performance!!! But when considering Cameras, don't compare the Nikon D80 to the Canon 40D!! They are worlds appart when it comes to performance. Compare the Canon Rebel Xti 400D to the Nikon D80. If you want better performance from Nikon, look at the D200 or the newly released D300 and compare those to the Canon 40D! The Nikon D80 is a phenomenal Camera and like Aditya it will allow you to continue using it into the professional world as well as an enthusiast!

I have shot both Platforms and I can tell you there are pros and cons on both!! So go to a camera shop and hold both of them, use both of them and just mess with them for a while, see which one feels better in your hand. Both platforms are great!! They will produce AMAZING results for you and you won't be dissatisfied either way!!

I gotta tell you. I used to sell cameras for a living and most of our commission (called "spiffs") came from selling third tier accessories like Promaster. They offered higher spiffs in an effort to encourage salesmen to move away from the recommended Canon brands to theirs. And to be honest, the quality wasn't that great. It did the job mind you, but in comparison, the difference was night and day.

Well, GJL, you're welcome to that opinion, but unless you've sold them, it's really just that ... a matter of opinion. I SOLD THEM. Promaster may be a brand name, but the manufacturers they user are third tier. Always have been. I do agree with you that Vivitar and Sunpak are good 2nd tier options for those on a budget. But Promaster? You couldn't pay me. Kinda like a cook who knows what's REALLY in the dish and never eats at his restaurant as a result.

Congrats. You may want to do a "google" search for digital photography lessons and read through the online information. I have found that to be helpful

Bob,



Both of these cameras are superb for blowing up photos. The 40D does have a faster frame rate and is great for ultra professional shots. Saying that, I use the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and love it. I am probably going to end up with an upgrade to the 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) (or some version of it), at some point, but the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) is working great for now. If you feel you need the faster capabilities, I would go with the more expensive camera, but with nature shots and family photos, the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) would be just fine. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Bob,



I would say that the IS function is worth it in the longer lenses. It will help avoid camera shake when at the 200, 300, and higher ranges and allow you to shoot with a longer shutter opening. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Purchased a Canon 40D body to be used for medical/surgical documentation. Prefer a Canon lens. Recommendations I’ve read favor the following Canon lenses for outdoor nature macro-photography: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM, Canon 180mm f/3.5L Macro USM and the Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo (one recommendation listed this for forensics to record injury patterns). What are the pros and cons for the 3 lenses for my needs?

Aditya, your response is very informative - I garnered new knowledge. And, it is very helpful. Thank you very, very much! Earl

The D200 and the 40D are very similar in picture quality. In my opinion, the 40D is slightly better because it has better ISO than the D200, giving it a better ability to take pictures in low light. Also my experience between the two is that the 40D has a slightly better color processor, giving pictures sharper colors, and better contrast. Also, the 40D tends to put out shaper images. The D200 has slightly more features, like more scene selections (I believe), but more likely than not you won't use any of these extra features. I would recommend the 40D, but if you have any other questions, or wanted to know more about specific features or hardware, feel free to ask.

I don't disagree because I shoot the 40D, but the Nikon is a bit more user friendly. I guess coming from the Nikon platform and recently switching to the Canon I am still trying to get used to my Canon!! Nikon lenses however are second to none, the glass is superior to all their competators. I love the photo output of my 40D, the pictures are outstanding!!



The negative on the Canon is the on/off switch!!! It is in the most awkward place. The Nikon is right at the index finger and the Canon 40D is on the back. The problem I have with it is it is sometimes difficult to turn on and off without looking at it!!



Either Camera produces Spectacular Photos!!! Also Check out the NEW Nikon D300!! It is a gorgeous camera!!!



Good Luck I also hope that this helps!!

I just bought the 40D two weeks ago. The only negative is the slightly awkward on/off switch, as mentioned before. This is my second DSLR, and I don't regret the purchase a single bit.

Autofocus speed is very good, images are very sharp (assuming you have good lenses). It has many nice features that make life easier, such as the fully customisable 'My menu' feature (which Nikon now also has on the D3), and the three custom shooting styles on the main wheen / knob. Live view is a nice feature-ette, mirror-lock up is good for low light shots, and many things more.



From what I have read, though, I think it is especially the lenses that make Canon a better choice than Nikon. The 50mm f/1.4 is exceptional, and there are fantastic wide angle selections (17-40 f/4, 16-35 f/2.8), great medium range teles (85mm f/1.2, 135mm f/2) and superb long telephoto lenses (e.g. 200mm f/2.8 and many more).

Well at first glance, I'd say the straight f2.8 lens is faster and dedicated, whereas the zoom with macro will be slower at the extreme range. If you're shooting with a tripod and proper lighting, either on their macro setting will yield the same results, IMHO.

I agree with you there, Josh. It's all about the glass.

Thanks all for your input and after reviewing how I intended to use the macro lens I did choose to use the 2.8 EX DG lens which I have now purchased and am very happy with. I also have the 28-135 Canon lens, but may be looking for additional lens after I play with that one a little more. Again, thank you all for your input, it was helpful.

When I said ["some" of the best glass] I wasn't referring to Sigma in general, just this one 70mm macro lens. Their 100-300 F4 zoom is another standout that has no equal from Canon or Nikon. Of course, there are many examples from Canon & Nikon & Olympus, etc. being far better in the same category. I dont make the glass, but have worked with the best there is, at 2 companies that use industrial lasers (with ultra expensive optics, up $25,000 for a single lens), and also worked at one of the companies that makes the laser machines. I cant make glass, but I sure can recognize quality when I see and use it.



Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. I respect others and generally don't make comments unless I have something valuable to bring to the conversation. I wish everyone the best and fun with their photography.

This is a Digital SLR camera. In order to obtain specific pictures such as macro or zoom, you have to change lenses. There are general purpose lenses that are available for these type of cameras. If you are considering this camera for use as a point and shoot, don't waste your money. This camera is a Professional camera. I would suggest looking for a Canon digital point and shoot, not a digital SLR. What are you looking to use the camera for?



The camera does have a macro setting in auto mode and the flash is a pop up flash that is mounted on the top of the camera.

I hope that this helps you!

Sorry for the detailed answer Ahmad...just trying to help give you an option for an alternative camera if necessary. Good luck in your quest and the Canon 40D is quite amazing!

Wow, a 28-300mm... nice! What's the aperture range on that? F/3.5-F/4.4 or around there?



As far as the lenses you have, they should have no trouble working, as Canon keeps their mounts identical on all their dSLRs. HOWEVER, just to be certain, I would E-mail Tamron directly to get a definite answer. I've contacted them many times and they return E-mails within 24 hours.



But certainly you shouldn't have any problems.

Well, if you're going to be selling them, you really need to think SLR. That way you can use a dedicated macros to get up close and personal. But in addition, you're going to want to invest in a "light box," (Or make one ( studiolighting.net/homemade...  )) which can diffuse the light coming from either the flash or from the lights you will use to illuminate the knives. Tripod's help also.



I like the Canon Xti Digital Rebel or 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and the Nikon D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) or D80.



For point and shoots, I like the macro capability of the Olympus 560UZ. But again, you gotta think about a photobox and lighting.

Well that's the beauty of BULB. It stays open as long as you depress the shutter. There is no real time limit. It closes when you release the shutter button. There are some shutter controllers that allow you to set times (Model TC-80N3 is one). They're good for astrophotography.

Like I said, it's a manual function. To do it automatically, you need to get the optional shutter controller that will allow you to preset the time.

Pankaj, you can't preset a bulb setting that I know of. It's purely manual. The only way you can is to get the optional shutter controller which will trigger the shutter to open, and then trigger it to close after the preset time has expired. I can't put it any plainer. good luck.

Well the 40D will certainly do the trick. So will the XTi Digital Rebel (400D). Also recommend the Nikon D40 or D80 (could they make that any more confusing?) You'll probably need a T mount to connect it to your telescope.

The 40D has a long exposure setting of 30 seconds. That is the max you can use without going to the bulb setting or buying one of the add-on timed shutter releases. The Canon Model TC-80N3 will allow an exposure for 99 hours 59 minutes 59 seconds.

Hey (;



What is bulb exposure?

Thanks!

You absolutely need another flash. The built in flash is largely for portaits and small group settings. The distances you're shooting are simply too far for the flash to reach, as the light dissapates after about 10 -15 feet. A zoomable flash - like the Speedlite 580EX II - will enable you to focus the flash to a distance and better improve your chances of getting a better exposure.



As for lenses, there are Super Telephotos ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...  ) that can take you out to 400mm and beyond. I think you're lens a good choice, but at the extreme range of the focal length, camera shake is going to be more pronounced. You should get a mono/tripod to minimize this, even if you're have image stabilization on. It can still happen. Also prefocus and pan with the action. Also, take advantage of your digital camera and and shoot dozens, if not hundreds of photographs. Because digital photography is so new to us, many are still of the mindset of being frugal with shooting pictures because you don't want to pay for developing of shots you don't want. But with digital, you can delete those you don't like even before you print them. And only 20% of people actually print anyway. Digital frees us from having to be frugal and that means you can shoot non stop if you want. This will also help compensate for random animal movements as will sports modes and faster shutter speeds. Don't use the flash, it scares away the animals. And I know this may sound odd, but odors can be picked up by animals miles away, so avoid using that cologne when you're out in the wild.



There are several more tips here ( malektips.com/digital_wildl...  ) which may be of help.

You have a great camera, a decent but "slow" lens, plus a teleconverter that degrades image quality and makes it even slower (darker). Your zoom lens is f5.6 at 300mm, add the 1.5X teleconverter and it's 450mm f8.0. VERY hard to get good shots unless the light is bright and the camera is stabilized with a monopod such as James suggested. I recently read a review from a guy that returned his 40D because it wouldn't auto focus in this type of situation. If you haven't already, try using only the center autofocus point, it should respond a little faster, that's IF focus is part of your problem and I suspect it is related.



James and Larry are correct about the flash, the 580EX is the best choice for your camera and use. (original or # II)



I would recommend the Kenko Pro 1.4X teleconverter instead of the 1.5X, its optics are better, but that's not your biggest problem. Professionals attempting the kind of shots you are taking use the Canon 100-400 L lens which costs over $1,600, or the 400mm 5.6 prime for about $1100.



For indoors, wider apertures are needed to stop the action. Here we go again, the expensive $1700 Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS lens is the #1 choice for indoor events. Much cheaper but limited alternatives for indoor sports are the Canon 100mm f2 prime for about $370, or the 135mm f2.8 w/soft-focus you can get for under $300. Either of these takes high quality photos that will make you want to put the zoom away.



For now, try the things James and Larry suggest plus the center focus point only. Crank the ISO to 1600 to get the shutter speed as high as possible, and hold your breath when you click the shutter.

Good luck, let us know how it goes..

George

Wayne,



Good choice! I cannot comment on any Sigma and Tamron telephoto zoom. I am using a Canon 100-400mm IS zoom ken and love it. If you really wnated a Sigma zoom lens, rumor has it the 70-200mm is sharp! Depends on the kind of wildlife picture you are going to take, sometime 200mm is not enough. Like doing birds and small animals, go get a 100-400mm Canon zoom lens it match the 40D really really well. But if you insist either Sigma or Tamron, check out the following site for product review: photographyreview.com/cat/l... 

Thanks Rickie and Francois. Living in the UK, the landscapes are in places like the Cotswolds, The Dales, The Lakes, The Peaks and Coastal areas. Also the weather conditions change by the minute but this year it has been mainly Grey!!!



The wildlife will vary from Butterflies and Birds to Deer etc. So I am looking for a good telephoto lens and some thing to do Macro and Wide angle shots. I am not sure about the size of prints yet but would possibly like to take them to A2+ size?

Thanks Francois. The Sigma 120-300 sounds good. Do you have any view on the Sigma 50-500? Also would you recommend buying the 40D with the 17-85mm lens? And would this suffice for wide angle and macro pictures? Plus I would be interested to hear your trick for Butterfly pictures. Thanks in advance. Wayne

Hello to All,I am looking to shoot wild horses in the high desert regions or Nevada and the Sierras Mt ranges.I will also be looking to shoot other wildlife in the interim.What camera and lens package do you recommend for a photographer with intermediate skills? Bare in mind I would like to make the shots look as professional as possible.

The 40D is a Phenomenal Camera....Tough question to answer whether it is too "Advanced"! I would say that if you shoot mostly manual then the 40D is a great compliment to your photography! If you shoot auto then I personally wouldn't spend the money! This camera does shoot in "auto" Amazing too...don't get me wrong, but it has so many features that will never be used when shooting in "auto" mode! If you are considering a DSLR upgrade The XTi is a great camera too! You will have great time expanding your art and save you mucho $$'s! I hope that this helps you....I have had the 40D for about 2 weeks now and I love it! But I shoot in raw format and manual! GOOD LUCK Either way!!

Well it sounds as if you are set for an upgrade to the 40D then....I purchased the 40D kit with the 17mm-85mm EF-S lens and it is absolutely a great lens for a walk around lens it has the IS (image Stabilization) so your shots are AMAZINGLY clear! There are too many features to brag about in this Camera...the Only down side I have found is the on/off switch! I came from Nikon Platform and just switched to Canon so it is taking some getting used to! Other than that I am blown away with the results of the photos as well as the functionality of the Camera!! Good Luck!! You will absolutely love it!!

Hi Diana,



All Canon dSLRs are EF-compatible, though lenses specifically made for the dSLRs use the EF-S mount. Many people use older Canon (and even old screw-mount lenses from Pentax and so on) with their new 400Ds and 40Ds, so you're in the clear there. In fact, since they're built for a full frame, using them on the smaller APS-C sensors might cut down on corner vignetting.



Hope this helps!

bspencer,

I just bought the 40D with the 17mm-85mm lens and I love it...I suggest that you go to your local camera shop and play around with it for a few! Listen to the shutter and see if it meets your sound standards! What is loud to one person may not be loud to another! As for the Camera...all I can say is WOW!! You won't be disappointed if the shutter sound is soft enough for you! Good luck....I hope that this helps!!

I can tell you that it is louder than My Nikon D70 was but I don't feel that it is extremely loud at all! The Nikon platform is AMAZING too but I really liked the extras Canon has put into their design! I do have to get used to the on off switch on the 40D. It is on the back and not as easily accessed as the Nikon! I love the Nikon Platform a lot! You just get more camera for the money with Canon...The Nikon 300D comes out soon but is going to be a lot more than the 40D is!! Check out the Nikon D80 and the D200, but if you already shoot Canon why would you want to start over with new Platform and new equipment! I never would have changed...but all my gear got stolen so I had to start over!



I guess to give you my honest opinion....it would be to keep your 20D til you can get a hold of a 40D to play around with it!! Don't rush your decision but do check out the Nikon...If that is an option then you won't be dissatisfied!

Thank you both radswim and Jempap for your responses. I am really grateful for the sound comparison to the 30D. And I completely agree with the idea of sinking the extra money I save with the 40D (instead of buying the Nikon D300) into another Canon lens or other accessory. Thanks again for all of your help. I love my Canon and will stick with it in a purchase of a 40D.

Dave,



The 40D will most certainly offer you the ability to make more adjustments than you can with the d60. I'm sure the d60 can make great pictures, as can a point and shoot. My wife has a canon sd700, which makes awesome 4 * 6 prints. But with 6.5 frames/sec, contrast and saturation adjustments to +4 or -4, live view, and shutter speeds galore, if you need it, which you do for sports, the 40d can do it. And with better weatherproofing, you don't have to put it away when it gets windy, or it starts to drizzle. I have not been able to put mine down since i got it on 9/14. Hope this helps.



Jempap

The 40D does not have in-body stabilization. My understanding is that in-body stabilization is not the best way to go - you need different levels/types of stabilization for different focal lengths, therefore the "best" way is to build the stabilization into the lenses, which allows better "control". Also, by building it into the lenses means you can enjoy stabilization on any body, not just a stabilized body!

As far as remote shutters go, you can buy an "optional extra" to do this. And of course there's the self timer option.

Finally, yes, the 40D has a dust removal system (high intensity shake) at start up and switch off. What's nice is that this can be de-activated if you wish, and you can manually clean the sensor too if you wish. But wait, there's more! - the 40D can "remember" where the dust is (if you have dust), and correct the image automatically!!

I hope this helps??

ralton and radswim did a fine job of answering my question! kudos to both! and thank you very much! ken squiers

As with Ralton I am glad I could be of some help...I just switched from Nikon platform to the new Canon 40D!!! I got it yesterday and I can't put the camera down...My GF said she would give me a few days of solitude with it...lol!! So far this is the most AMAZING Camera I have shot!! I will post more later as I spend most of my waking hours with my new BABY!!! lol

I don't see any information on the release date for the Canon EOS40D on Canon's official website. You may want to E-mail them an inquiry. E-mail them at: canon.co.in/contactCanonmai...  Ask them about price as well, as import fees and different markets cause different prices.

Hello Jessica , I see you are looking at the canon EOS 40D. this a very nice camera. But It is about twice as much as you want to spend right now. You can get the pentax k10d with 18-55mm lens for about 750.00 if you shop around. It also has a 50.00 dollar rebate until the end of september. This camera is capable of making high quality photos. Check out the in depth reviews on the pentax k10d camera and others on dpreview.com . I believe you will like this camera, I know I sure do..

I totally agree with jempap....Go with the Nikon D40x it is an exceptional camera and the kit they put together is far better for current use and future upgrades! Nikkor lenses are of the best in the industry and you won't be dissatisfied for the Price. I had the D70 **until it got Stolen** I did just buy the Canon 40D tho with the 17-85 lens kit! I spent just under $2000.00 a little more than 3 times what you were looking to spend! I hope that this helps you.....good luck with your purchase!

very hard to tell from your question but when shooting indoor, you should most likely be using a flash. if your camera has a built in flash, make sure the flash mode is set to auto or red-eye reduction. when shooting indoor red-eye is always an issue so the red-eye reduction mode is usually the better choice. the simplest setting for the camera then would be your 'program' or 'auto' mode. if the pics are still dark, you are too far from the subject for your flash. get closer or get a bigger flash.



hope this helps...

Noise issues get pretty nasty at ISOs above 800. And any built in flash has a very limited range. Rely on a stronger flash and open up the fstop settings. Try a preset of indoor or night modes. There is nothing that can't be overcome here by experience and a strong flash.

I'd also recommend a monoPod if you are allowed to use one.

hope we are not confusing you with so many tips.



John was trying to say there is an EV function in Nikon that allows you to make the picture less harsh. Well John, Canon also have the same function. It is a useful tips.



James is concerned about noise above ISO 800. This is true for all digital compacts, except Fuji f30, but not for dSLRs. Take a look at the pictures taken at various ISO level for Canon 400D, Nikon D80 and Sony A100 at this location <a href="dpreview.com/reviews/canone...  and you can see at ISO 800, while D80 does it very well, 400D is not bad. At ISO1600, D80 still gives much better picture than one can expect to get using digital compacts.



Perhaps this remarks at DCReview on Canon 30D helps : " ..... The images are very clean through ISO 800, and it's just a bit grainy at ISO 1600...."



see <a href="dcresource.com/reviews/cano...  review</a>



So Ray, go ahead and use ISO 800 or even ISO1600 if the situation warrants it.

So James, I know next to nothing about film photography. Grain occures in film photography at high ISO like noise occurs in digital photography? That's good to know. I have a few older SLRs about to be given to me by relatives who don't use them anymore. I plan on using them sparingly, but as a hobby.

Ken Rockwell at kenrockwell.com has promoted a system of inexpensive photography that relies on have friends and relatives donate their old but still very good film SLR cameras. You then join Costco where you can have prints and development done for cheap (assuming their is one near you). The cost per picture can get pretty low and they will scan them and put them on a CD for you so you can put them in your computer if desired. Upshot is having digital pictures and film, too for cheap. John, you are in a great position to have the best of both worlds. Now if I can find some long lost relatives with SLR's they don't use anymore!

Larry

6.5 fps & yes there is a battery pack that will fit this camera. Research the accessories that will be available for the camera & salivate.

The existing BG-E2 grip from the EOS 20D and 30D will also work with the 40D.

Well, if you go to the Canon 20D page ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) here, you will find a few vendors and the prices they offer. There are many other options, as well, but these vendors have been vetted by Digital HQ and are highly recommended. Absent that, Google is your friend. And there's always eBay. But watch the feedback ratings before you bid.



Lastly, are you certain you want a 20D? It's grade (C) isn't that thrilling compared to the Digital Rebel XTi. ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) (A-)

I think you mis-read the question. Tonya wants a 20 DA not a 20D. Big difference. Both are discontinued, but the DA is really hard to find even on Ebay. Do a google search for astromart and check that website.



Good Luck and be prepared to shell out $1800-$2200 for it used.

Canon lenses for A1 and F cameras uses FD mount and present day digital Canon body only accept EF lenses. This applies to any Canon dSLR body, be it 40D,400D, 350D, 300D and so on.



If you want to use FD lens on EOS body, you will have to buy an FD-EOS adapter.



You can log on to <a href="hobday.net/ebay/fdeos/sn104...  site</a> for the adapter if you are interested.

A cheaper source can be found at <a href="adorama.com/CZFDEOSA.html&q...  site</a>.



However, neither the adapter nor the FD lens have the electrical contacts for the EOS body and FD lens will not enjoy some of the functions available for EOS lens. Focusing, for example, will have to be done manually.

That is about what I have heard. I think that as of now, any dates being thrown out are just speculation, as I don't believe Canon has issued anything official yet. But if it helps, Canon tends to have an 18-month release cycle, which would place this one between August and November 2007.

Take the following for what its worth... I spoke to a sales rep for a large camera store in L.A. who stated that his Canon Rep mentioned that the new 40D will be available in July 2007. The camera re rep is delaying his purchase of a 30D until the rumored arrival of a 40D actually happens...

these cameras are actually very cheap if you compare them to the iphone, that will come out with a $500-600 ticket. and it is still just a damn phone !

I have noticed 2 replies for this new Canon 40D, with people asking "when will it come out?" Some say July, others say September. Keep this in mind: There still may be bugs in the new system, so, yes, in time I will upgrade, but I'm gonna wait like 4-6 months(great Christmas present, aye?) And, by then, Canon will have a rebate! So, for those who have the 20/30D's, It may be worth it to wait just a little bit. Right?

Hi Polly,



It seems like no one outside the Canon Corp. has a clue right now. One would assume that they'd put out a successor soon, and there've been plenty of rumors going around regarding specs and dates, but no firm word as yet. I'd say you should wait another month or two and see what happens.



Good luck!