Hey! You should know that this product has been discontinued. Here are our current recommended cameras in the Point and Shoot Digital Cameras category.
Canon PowerShot A550
Editor's Review
The Canon PowerShot A550 is part of Canon's mid-range, affordable line, picking up where the popular A530 and A540 left off while introducing a powerful 7.1 megapixel sensor. This is about as easy as photography can get, though if you're a real power user or interested in the potential for growth, it'll be hard to take the training wheels off of this model. There are manual exposure settings, but there's greater versatility in a camera like the Canon A640. This camera was introduced over two years ago, and it's becoming difficult to find. It's still a great little camera, but we recommend that you buy a newer model. Try the SD780.
Specifications
- 7.1 megapixels
- JPEG file format
- Movie mode with sound
- 4x optical zoom / 3x digital zoom
- Autofocus
- ISO 80-800
- Auto and manual exposure
- 2.0-inch LCD
- Secure Digital memory (16MB card included)
- 2 AA batteries
- Part Number: 1775B001
- UPC: 840356881751
- Release Date: Jan 18, 2007
Shop for A550 Accessories
Canon PowerShot A550 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
Thanks
Amit Naskar
Reset the camera.
There's no firmware update available so that's out.
Try shooting in a program setting. If it happens there too, you know it's more serious.
Talk to canon about a repair estimate. But if it'll cost more than 50% what you paid for it, you're better off buying a new camera.
Answer: Clean your battery contacts. Often this can cause issues with the camera turning on/off.
Respuesta: Limpie los contactos de la batería. A menudo, esto puede causar problemas con la cámara de activación / desactivación.
as for fuzzy photos, that can happen in low light situations, or when you're seeking a picture and haven't prefocused first. You can pre-focus by pressing the shutter half way to lock the focus on your subject and then recomposing the picture before pushing the shutter the rest of the way.
The differences between these cameras is minimal. You can get closer when shooting in Macro mode with the Canon A470 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (0.39" vs 15" while set at the widest angle lens), and it has a wider ISO range (80-1600 vs 80-800). The higher ISO will allow you to take more visible shots in lower lighting situations, but will add a level of graininess to the photos.
The Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will allow you to manually adjust the white balance settings, and it uses AA batteries. If you ever run out of battery power, it is easier to replace AA's on the fly than recharge a lithium ion battery. The lithium ion batteries do last longer though.
While these differences are not huge, they are differences. You have to ask yourself what type of photos you'll be taking before choosing. If you plan on taking pictures indoors at gatherings where there isn't a lot of light, I would go with the Canon A470 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because of the ISO capability. If you think you'll need the flexibility of a AA battery, then the Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be the camera for you. Either way, Canon makes a good reliable camera. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The DISP button on the back of the camera should bring it back on.
Andrew
Pressing the round button on the back of the camera that has DISP. etched beneath it will turn the LCD display off. You have your choice between "Standard" (no info is displayed), "Detailed" (photo info is displayed), and "Off" (obvious). This will definitely save you on batteries. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Another tip is to go to Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
Also, make sure you have fresh high capacity (mAh) batteries in it. Often undercharged or depleted batteries can easily affect camera performance.
It involves two steps in the setting. Step one selects the postcard mode :
Function > Recording Pixels > Post card
Step two sets the date to on/off :
Record Menu > Date off/on.
Date stamp is set to off by default and there is no way to remove the date once it is stamped on the picture.
(thanks again, Bukit!)
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
I was just luking for this .. even the manual didn't provide about the time stamp ..
Is there a download or something I could use to convert my camera software and allow me to continue using it to take and transfer my pictures?
Thanks
If you use a USB transfer device ( amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/1... ), you shouldn't have to download any update software. If you want to use the Canon ZoomBrowser software, or any other Canon software, you can get Vista update downloads from the Canon site ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Me, I prefer Picasa by Google ( picasa.google.com/ ). It's an awesome and free program, and it's easy to use. On the "pay" side, Adobe Photoshop Essentials 6 is a great program for photo editing and does about 80% of what adobe photoshop CS3 does.
But if you're looking for an "in camera" solution, the A550 doesn't have it.
For what you're looking for, I would recommend the Nikon L11 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a lot more auto settings, and will be easier to use for a 9 year old. Good luck.
Andrew
Lens error can happen anytime
I'm not sure what you're referring to. I used a Nikon CoolPix camera for about three months very heavily (over 1600 photos a week). Is there a recurring error with the cameras?
Andrew
I think there may be some confusion regarding these numbers. The A550 is a 7 megapixel camera that uses JPEG compression to store the high resolution pics (7 MP) in a file size no more than 3 MegaBytes. The JPEG compression allows for considerable savings on your memory card. The lower resolution settings will take up even less storage space on the memory card and the same goes for smaller size photos. It appears to me that your camera is operating just right. Hope that clears things up for you.
Larry
I ws confused about the pixels vs. megabytes.
Andrew
I figured out where is this "tick" from? while I was looking at the center of my camera's lens when opening it or closing it, it seems like there's a little door that allows the view of the LCD (where i can see what the lens sees), the tick is heard when it's closed or opened or when the LCD view shifts between being OFF or ON.
(i.e. The camera is OFF (the LCD views nothing (is OFF as well)), when I open it (the LCD turns ON) I hear that "tick", or generally when the LCD switches between on and off anyway (going to stand by(power saving), capturing a photo, .....)
I'm sorry for repeating the question, but just to make sure there's nothing in my camera (as I bought it a couple of days ago)
The Question is, Is this normal to hear that "tick" or "click" , if anybody have the camera, do you hear that?
Thanks Andrew again, and hope to help me whether nothing on my camera or I should go to Canon.
Andrew
Both slug it out pretty good (although I had to settle with comparing the H9). The flash on the H2 seems more powerful and it has the edge for the macro setting. But frankly, not by much.
One thing that gives me pause about SONY is that they tend to force their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, their own spin on formatting & color management, and a host of others which the Canon won't do. Canon relies on SD cards, which are pretty much the standard in point and shoot for memory cards. This means you can use any you happen to currently have and they are much cheaper than memory sticks. You can also use them in other technologies like PDAs, DMPs, and even mp3 players, whereas that memory stick is only going to be used in another SONY.
Their color management is in synch with Adobe's in my view so again, more open source.
But when choosing between two cameras, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
im still open for other suggestions!
thanks.
Realistically, the A550 is a better camera than the A460, in every respect except size. Read this review, and look at these pictures if you'd like: steves-digicams.com/2007_re... & steves-digicams.com/2007_re... this same site has a review for the A460 as well. And there's nothing wrong with that camera, either. But given the two, the A550 is better. The picture quality is essentially the same, except the A550 will let you make larger prints if you wanted that. There are more features, as well. Both have horrendous shot-to-shot time when using flash. The A460 is smaller, if that matters to you. But, like I said, if you don't like the softer default settings on the A550, you can always changes them. For the same price, take the A550 (unless, again, you want the slightly smaller size of the A460.)
In the case of Canon A550, the specifications state that the camera is compatible with SD/SDHC cards which means you can use the latest 4 gig SD cards if you like.
Under normal circumstances, a 2 gig card will be more than sufficient for photographing any single event.
You can check the specifications of A550 at <a href="dpreview.com/reviews/specs/...
So I am sure that Canon made the A510 to work with Windows at that time. And of course, Microsoft and Canon have a symbiotic relationship: Both companies insist upon complete compatibility. And Canon is not a competitor w/Microsoft. It's not like Microsoft would want to stab Canon in the back like they did with WordPerfect and NetScape.
Joan
The A550 has a macro focus range of 5cm, which is good but not nearly as good as some of the other models from Canon.
The earlier A640 and A630, for example, have a macro range of 1cm.
The slightly more expensive S5 IS and S3 IS (S2 IS as well) have a "super macro" mode that means you can actually touch the glass of the lens to the subject you're shooting and still have it be in focus (0cm macro range)!
Hope this helps!
I'd recommend the Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's a good, basic point and shoot camera that also packs some limited manual shooting modes if at some point she wants to start experimenting a little. I've owned several Canon Powershot models in my time, and I've always been satisfied with the image quality and ease of use. As DCHQ's review puts it, "this is about as easy as photography can get." It's also quite cheap, and if it's anything like its bigger brothers in the A-series, quite sturdy.
Hope this helps!
As for rechargeables, they work great. I don't see much of a difference in that respect. LiOn batteries are well respected, but over time they will die out and fail.
On the whole, however, they're about equal.
One word of warning though. Beware of counterfeit rechargeable batteries. These batteries are subject to overheating and will even explode. So make sure the batteries you get are approved for use in your camera.
Also, if going the Alkaline route, although they have great shelf life, when you purchase batteries in bulk, it isn't uncommon that some or many of them are near dead or worse. Batteries bought in bulk tend to have a long turnover and such, can lose much of their battery power before they are used.
I've had several Canons and it's always been very easy for me to transfer and share photos. However, I don't tend to use the supplied software. Instead I just browse to the camera (once it's connected via the USB cable) with Windows Explorer/My Computer and manually copy the files to my hard drive.
Just out of curiosity, what did you find difficult about transferring and sharing with the Kodak? What makes it easy with the Sony?
Regards,
Ben
have you installed the software???
or you just browse the cam without the software???
If the spring is broken, I can imagine the door not opening. A small screwdriver blade or knife blade in the joint might do the trick (while you push the latch in one direction and the door in the other!) ---but that seems like it would be physically difficult. Perhaps a third hand could help???
For video - I'd recommend The Flip ( theflip.com ) by Pure Digital. $129 for 60 minutes recording time and the quality is really good.
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But allow me to make an pitch for using several smaller cards, rather than one large one. Reason being, insurance. Any memory card can fail or become corrupted. And when you're on vacation the last thing you want is to lose the opportunity to take pictures until you can recover that media card with a software utility. If your card goes bad, swapping another one for it at that moment is of advantage so you can keep taking pics. Then, later when you're in front of your PC, you can use a utility like F-recover to get back your pictures and recover your card.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one large one when several smaller ones can solve that problem.
One last thing. Cards have different speeds. The faster a card is, the quicker it'll save the photo and cycle to be ready for another shot. In the end, your camera is only going to be as fast as it's slowest link in the chain. So check for speed when you purchase a card and get the fastest card you can afford.
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... dealers, just click on the camera you want to see, and in the upper right corner next to the picture of the camera you'll see some links to various websites that sell the camera, along with their prices.
For what it's worth, I think the Stylus 710 is excellent.
Im intrested on 10 MP/ 3x optical zoom Samsung Camera.
My friend loves 7.2 MP/12x optica zoom Kodak camera.
We are in big confusion .. Hep us plz
<a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... is a fantastic run-down of the differences between them. Make sure to read the whole thread, as there are a few corrections made to that list in later posts.
As you can see there are some changes that are good, some that are not so good. Whether it's worth it really depends on what features are most important to you.
Thanks again!
The S5 continuous shooting mode does have a nice perk that the S3 doesn't, which is the auto focus, that keeps the moving subject in focus continously while you fire.
So really, the continuous shooting issue will depend on what you want to shoot. Do you have a specific need for the c.s.? If so, maybe I can help you determine if the S5 would be fast enough to meet it.
The hot shoe on the s5 means you can attach an external flash to the camera. This can come in handy. Cameras have built-in flashes, but sometimes (for example, in a very large dim area like a stadium) some extra oomph is needed. With that said, it is possible to attach extra flashes to the s3 as well, you just need to buy a little extra equipment. But the s5 having a hot shoe means you can just pop a Speedlite flash right onto it. So, it can be a plus; but unless you're planning on needing it often, it's not necessarily worth the extra price. Don't get me wrong; hot shoes are fantastic (you will see them on DSLRs and all the high end cameras, and I love using external flashes) but whether or not it's worth it to you depends on how often you think you'll need a very powerful flash.
And I'll add here that the s3's built-in flash is pretty good, anyhow.
I think this could go a few different ways in terms of what camera you should get. My two cents: if I were you, I would probably be buying the s3 right now. I think that from all I've heard about the s5, it has a few advantages to it (hot shoe, larger LCD), but the speed issue is there to be considered, and to me, the advantages aren't large enough to justify the difference in price (and the loss of speed in continuous mode). That's my opinion; I personally think the s3 is a nice all-around camera and would suit you well.
Here's the devil's advocate: Although we've gotten onto Canon, there are other brands and options out there that are comparable. It sounds like you do need something with some power (not just a little point and shoot), you do need zoom, and you do need speed. Do you want me to link you to some other possibles, or are you pretty convinced that you want to go Canon? I'm a huge Canon fan myself but I wouldn't mind at all pointing you to some other brands/ models to make a true comparison!
Oh one more thing. does the s5 have the capabilities of more zoom with an added lens? Can the s3 do that too?
Thanks
In terms of other brands, you're right on the H7, the memory cards can get expensive and are less convenient than the ones for the Canon. The touch screen is kind of a pain for some people too- neat function, but can get covered with fingerprints. If I pointed you towards another brand, it would probably be one of the Fuji ultra zooms. Although those will also have the same issue with memory cards as the Sony, so if that's a factor for you, again, Canon may be best here.
Movie modes in the s3 and s5 are different from each other, and I think this is one area where the s5 did a good job. s5 offers Face Detection technology in movies, which can recognize and focus on human faces automatically, and it can also record longer videos than the s3. If you had a large enough memory card, you could record a 32 minute video where the s3 would only give you 8 minutes on the same card. There may be a tiny reduction in quality of the video with a length like that, but nothing you'd notice.
One caution on that though: if the thought of recording a 32 minute video is exciting, you might want to consider whether you really want your camera to do that or if you'd rather use a separate video camera (higher quality) for clips of that length! It is really up to you, and it'll depend on what you record and how long it usually is. But yeah, I think s5 movies= better.
For the s3 to have a separate flash, you'd need to purchase what's called a slave flash/ bracket. It's complex, but basically because the flash can't hook directly to the camera via a hot shoe, you have to buy a 'bracket' as well that fits around the camera and plugs into it somewhere else, often the tripod hole, and has its own trigger. Basically it's like attaching a totally separate functioning unit (the flash) to the camera and having them work together. Not as handy as a Speedlite and not as cheap, but they do still work if you really want one. Here are some links about them:
<a href="photography-on-the.net/foru... with an S3</a>
<a href="buy.com/prod/Canon_HF_DC1_H... flash for sale</a>
Hmm, what else? The ISO on the s5 goes up to 1600, not 3200, as far as I know; but that is still higher than the s3, which goes up to 800 I believe. But that isn't something to get too excited about, because here's what it is: the ISO is kind of like film speed on a regular camera. You know how you can use 100 speed film outdoors in the sunshine, but if you want to shoot inside, you use something like 400 speed film? ISO does the same thing, more or less. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the shot is going to be to light, thus a higher ISO is good for shooting in dark conditions. But, on these cameras as well as on almost all digitals, an ISO of 1600 is going to be REALLY, really grainy. Being able to capture light indoors means you sacrifice some image quality, and although in theory a sensitivity of 1600 is nice, you would probably almost never use it because the photos would be unusable. The highest ISO I try to use in any condition is 800, which is grainy enough as it is; so the s5 offering the option of 1600 is likely an option you wouldn't use anyhow.
Both cameras can take optional lenses, so no tie breaker there. =)
I hope that helps. Let me know how you're thinking re: s3 vs. s5. And I can definitely help you find a 'teenager' camera, but what do you mean by decent zoom? Finding something pocket-sized with a good zoom can sometimes be tricky, as the longer the zoom the larger the camera.
On the one hand, the s3 is cheaper, has a better continuous mode, and has many of the same functions as the s5 for less $. On the other, the s5 has the better movie mode and the hot shoe. But if you use a camcorder anyhow and won't use external flash much, then those improvements may be negligible. And the faster continuous mode of the s3 might be nice for you.
Here are a few links to people discussing this same decision, maybe some of their opinions will sway you:
forums.dpreview.com/forums/... your other camera, I can't think of any that quite fit your criteria. The Canon G7 has the zoom and pixels you want but is quite a bit above the price range you gave, and it's pretty bulky too. The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) may be pretty close, although it's somewhat pricier than what you mentioned, it does have the zoom and pixels and is nice and small. Read the user reviews on that one, though; the major thing to beware of is that that camera has a serious issue with lag time between photos if you are using the flash.
If that doesn't work, maybe you can compromise a little and go for something like the new A570 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), (4x zoom). Is a smaller zoom acceptable, or would you rather pay more/ have a larger camera for the full 6x?
I'll check the other discussions too. Once again , thank you, thank you!
Let me know if you have further questions, always happy to help. And let me know what you decide on for either camera. I'm curious now! =)
The 8mp is also causing some people to grumble because of the fact that it has the same size image sensor as the S3, which only has 6mp. I think this is probably what you saw that said something didn't change, they were referring to the sensor size. For best image quality, a large amount of pixels should go with a larger sensor. Think of it this way: the pixels are stored on the sensor. The more pixels you try to cram onto that sensor, the less improvement those pixels are going to offer to the image quality, as the pixels don't like to be crammed all into one small space. So the S3 and the S5 having the same size sensor means that the S5 has more 'cramming' going on. Many people (me included) believe that manufacturers do this as a sort of cheap upgrade. They can market a camera with tons of megapixels, but if they don't bother to upgrade the sensor, it won't give you that great of an image. I don't necessarily think that's what's happening with the S5- 8mp on a 1/2.5 sensor isn't THAT bad, and I don't see Canon as the type to pixel-cram for marketing purposes- but that is why people are complaining. If I were you, I wouldn't use those two extra mp as a deciding factor between the cams.
1.Hot shoe/external flash..would it be used?
2. face detection? Is this really a factor?
3. 2 mp is not significant
4. 1/2 " bigger screen-no biggie
5.iso 1600 ( not important)
6.:( Slower continuous mode.
7. better movies
8. 2 more shooting modes. no biggie?
9. I also read that the s5 camera itself is a little bigger than s3....not as easy to hold??
So as far as I can tell bottom line...would I use the hot shoe? Is that worth the extra money?
Hmm.....If I could wait for real reviews of normal everyday peeps once they have them in hand, I would...but I really need this camera for a trip in 2 weeks. Thinking on it a little more.
Thanks Brenda, you continue to be a big help.
I believe that more pixels crammed within a sensor of the same size than less pixels will improve image quality because image pixels will be smaller - that is less grainy. Though naked eyes may be unable to see the difference between 6Mp and 8Mp without magnification it should make a big difference when printing or projecting in large size. Just imagine two 15 inch LCDs one with 640 x 480 pixels and another 1024 x 768 pixels. They have same size but the picture resolution is quite different.
Lisa, sounds like you've been researching also.
Any advice on which way to go...s5,s3? Maybe waiting for user reviews would be the best answer...although I too have a trip coming up.
Thanks again.
"I think that from all I've heard about the s5, it has a few advantages to it (hot shoe, larger LCD), but the speed issue is there to be considered, and to me, the advantages aren't large enough to justify the difference in price"
Guess if the LCD is a major factor, i.e. if the menus are hard to see on the smaller screen, then that may be a larger issue for you and might lean you towards the S5. Lots of people are really pleased by it, and that .5 inches does make quite a bit of difference if you rely on the LCD a lot!
Not quite. The issue with more pixels on a small sensor means that the pixels will be smaller, as you've said, but smaller pixels actually leads to more grain, not less.
Smaller pixels have a lower dynamic range and less volume, thus less photon capacity and a weaker light signal, resulting in noisier photos. Here's a good explanation of how this works:
cambridgeincolour.com/tutor... one:
outbackphoto.com/dp_essenti... think what you may be getting at, though, is the fact that an enlargement made from the S5, with more pixels and the same sensor, may be better than one from the S3 because more pixels means that the noise that DOES exist will be 'enlarged less' since there are more pixels to use. And that's true (see the end paragraph of that first article I linked for a better explanation of that, I am not doing a very good job of explaining it).
I think advanced photographers who expected a better upgrade from Canon are the ones complaining about this. In my opinion, the average shooter will not notice much image quality difference between these cameras either way.
I just ordered the s3. Thanks for all of your help. If I could have waited longer, I maybe would have, but I know that the s3 is an excellent camera and I'm sure that I'll be happy with it.
Have a great summer!
Now I need some battery and memory card advice. Size, write speed, battery charger and battery brand....the best bang for my buck. :)
Thanks
OK. Accessories! This camera takes SD cards, and it can also take SDHC, which are the 'high capacity' SD cards. That means you can buy the huge 4 and 8gb cards if you wanted to. Personally, I wouldn't, just because if you have a memory card error, you could lose all your photos in one fell swoop. I usually use a few slightly smaller cards just as a precaution (although, for all the problems people have, I should note that I've personally never had a memory card error, so don't be too scared of that happening as long as you follow all the directions). I'd recommend a 4gb as the absolute largest if you really want a big card; your best bet would be to buy a couple of 1gb or 2gb cards. Brand doesn't matter much; I usually use Sandisk or Kingston, but as long as it's an SD card, you'll be OK. As far as speed goes, this camera can take the high speed cards (60x or higher), so that's really up to you as well. The main areas you'd see a benefit is going to be in the time between shots (it will probably be ready for the next shot a little quicker) and in shooting video. High speed cards are a good investment if you're at all impatient, but they're not absolutely necessary. Let me know if you need links to places to buy these items.
Batteries= this camera uses AA batteries. What I always do with cameras that use AAs is I purchase rechargeable NiMH AAs, along with a charger. You can buy these anywhere (even, like, Walmart), and the batteries plus charger will probably run between 20 and 30 bucks. Mine are Energizer, so brand doesn't really matter, although you can buy the ones made by Canon (<a href="amazon.com/Canon-CBK4-300-B... if you'd like. I think the life you'll get out of either one will be comparable. I would recommend, though, if you're going on vacation, buying two sets of the batteries and one charger, so that you can still be shooting while one set of batteries charges. You should be happy with the battery life on these. If you need exact numbers or anything on how long you can expect them to last let me know and I'll look into it.
Let me know if that helps!
Does that help?... It helps TREMENDOUSLY! Thank you...I sure hope you're getting paid for this advice! LOL. Once again, thanks! What i-net provider would you recommend? I'm sure I'll hit Walmart too, but if you know a good I-net with fast cheap shipping, let me know!
Thanks again!
I have been thinking about the resolution issue for awhile. If one takes a pixel and divides it into quadrants, that would be the same as going from a 2MP sensor to an 8MP sensor, in the same x-y space.
Now the pixels on the given 2MP are huge (compared to the 8MP version), and therefore would be more accurate at determining the intensity and color of the light. But the smaller pixels would be [i]mostly[/b] accurate as well--due to ISO testing that is designed to give minimum threshholds.
So even if the 8MP pixels are only accurate 75% of the time, one still gains an increase in resolution.
You are exactly right in terms of resolution. It's the loss of size in pixels that is the kicker in my opinion. It isn't just a loss in accuracy in determining the dynamic range and light, it's a loss in ability to handle them. Smaller pixel= less light gathering area= weaker light signal= more 'signal to noise ratio'= noisier photo. Smaller pixel also= less dynamic range= less ability to hold photons= less range of color before becoming totally black or white. All of those things degrade quality, so that's where people have issues with 'pixel cramming.'
But as I said, at this level (going from 6 to 8) it's really negligible. In the sample you gave, the cramming of 8 megapixels onto the same sensor as a 2 megapixel would be a serious loss of quality (I know you were just using it as an example, though). All of this is why in spite of it all DSLRs have larger sensors than simple point & shoots.
I think we are sort-of covering two issues here as well. But basically, in my opinion the main issue for quality is the interplay of the sensor and the lenses, so if a camera can balance those skillfully then I don't mind how many megapixels they want (or don't want) to give me!
Accessories question:
How are the Lexar mem cards...lexar platinum II......ALSO, can you take a mem card out of an hp camera and use it in canon? Would you have to re-format or are they just interchangeable?
I have an S3 in the house and I'm struggling with the 2.0 LCD versus the larger 2.5 LCD on the S5 (which I haven't seen yet) -- but the timelapse thing really irritates me. I'm a gardener, I need timelapse that goes for hours. And I gather that the equally mysterious downgrade in burst speed between the S3 and the S5 is a sore point with other buyers; my partner, when I told him about this, was startled and not at all pleased. So if I can find a way to live with the S3's small screen.... *sigh*
And just hope that someday, Canon deigns to combine the S3's timelapse and burst speed, the S5's 8mpx and hotshoe, and Sony's fine 3.0" LCD into one camera... maybe 15X... and what else should we wish for, a bigger sensor (chip?) to do better processing? RAW ability? And call it all the S7 or whatever, and stick to a $450 US price point... yeah! Right! :)
The Olympus 550UZ still has timelapse, but I have other reasons for not wanting that one. In this summer's generation of newultrazooms, the Olympus 550UZ is the ---only--- one (that I know of) with genuine timelapse ability, now that Canon's essentially dropped it.
Lexars seem fine as long as they're the right type (SD obviously); I've used them in the past with no problems, although not as often as I've used Sandisk. But they're plenty reputable.
Switching the card from one camera to another, even if they're the SAME brand, often means you have to reformat. So be careful about that, since if you DO reformat it will erase the card. Best to have separate cards for each camera if possible to avoid any weird errors/ lost photos.
For what it's worth, you pretty much hit the nail on the head. While personally I can take or leave a large LCD, but there are plenty of shooters who rely on a good-sized one, and thus there are plenty of people who can't understand why the S5 had to be 'downgraded' in so many ways. My main point of interest on the S5 was the hot shoe, which I thought was awesome- but what with all the other issues cropping up, if I were to purchase I'd still head towards an S3 myself. Not that the S5 is bad, it just truly depends on what you want from a camera, but I think lots of S3 fans were expecting the next one to be, well, different than it was.
It'll be interesting to see what comes next.
Richio and Nancy, the S5 and the S3 both stop at 12X but I think most reviewers have been using "anything past 10X" as their superzoom definition.
Brenda, O Wise One, do you happen to know if the S5 has a remote shutter capability that does NOT involve hooking up a laptop between you and the camera? The S1 had a remote shutter; the S3 does not, except for some weird laptop setup, which strikes me as useless.
If not, then is it possible at all to raise the performance by hackers or other third party people, or is it really running at its peak performance?
The PowerShot S5 IS comes bundled with the following Canon Software:
RemoteCapture Task 1.7 (Windows and Macintosh) for PC controlled remote shooting.
So i would guess theres no remote shooting option without PC. At least i didnt see it in the article even in the S5 accessories section.
Perhaps the degradation is due to the 'face detection' computations/focusing as well as the extra computing needed to transfer the extra pixels from the sensor to the memory card. Logically, turning down the compression factor (to use less compression but more storage) should help the throughput, since the compression logarithm also eats up computing cycles.
Thirdly, turn off the LCD. Geesh, that's just one more job that eats up the time-between-shots. QUESTION: Do these labs that test these cameras use ideal parameters, or just everymans-everyday settings?
Rich
About the whole cramming in 2mb more pixels. Are the 8mb of pixels physically on the LCD? Where I'm going is, if you adjust the image size down on the S5, are less pixels being generated on the LCD so they are bigger and more responsive (whatever was said above), or are just less pixels on the LCD being used? So by downgrading image size onthe S5 would you get a better quality picure?
I've also heard the S3 suffers many quality issues. Has anybody else heard that? -Thanks
When making photos with smaller resolution, one simply can't ignore pixels unless one is going from say, 8mp to 2mp (unlikely). To keep the same aspect ratio on a strictly "use 'em or lose 'em" basis, you would have to use the square root of the original megapixels.
Hence apparently there are algorithms in place to make a more modest reduction in the number of megapixels emplyed. Such computations involve averaging the values of surrounding pixels. Does this increase photo quality? I assume you mean does a "dumbed-down" S5 shooting at 5mp produce better photos than a 5mp camera shooting at the full 5mp?
Interesting scenario. The resolution of the two photos in the above example obviously would be identical. The only change is the extra 3mp, theoretically "being put to good use" in the algorithm. The only possible advantage I can see from this comparison is that the 8mp camera MIGHT have an increase in the ISO rating.
Rich
RAW support and many other excellent features are provided in an excellent hack.
You can find screenshots and link to it here: Link ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... )
DIGIC III cameras propably will get their own hack someday.
Thanks to everybody!
I think the competitive Olympus 550 UZ does have RAW (as well as actual timelapse, which the S5 dropped).
Maybe someone can make a hack for it on the S5, I don't know.
And I just read that there was some kind of limit on the amount of photo's you can take in an hour? I'm confused...is this only in "High Speed Burst" mode? or can you only take 30 picts per hour?
Hi Christa. Re: your question, it is true that the higher ISO on the S5 will help with low-light shots, but on the other hand, regardless of the camera you're going to experience SOME graininess/ noise at an ISO of 1600. I think you would be fine with either of these cameras; as everyone is discussing, the main drawback of the S5 is the lack of speed in burst mode, and unless you plan to shoot lots of continuous photos that won't really affect you. For macro shots, both are pretty comparable; and as I said, that higher ISO of the S5 is nice, but probably wouldn't result in that higher an image quality than the S3.
Regarding the limit on photos per hour, not sure of the specs on these cameras, but I can assure you that they were talking about High Speed Burst mode or something similar to that. That's the only area where a camera will experience limitations, and then they are typically related to the mem card, which can only work 'so fast' to save photos, resulting in a certain amount you can fire off in a row before the camera reaches its limit. For normal shooting, you should not experience any limit as to how many shots you can fire per hour.
forums.popphoto.com/camera/... is quite possibly one of the best explanations of the pixel size issue I've ever read. You might find it helpful.
I have not heard many quality complaints about the S3 physically. Maybe one person talking about how the camera body was not very tightly sealed, but definitely not complaints to the extent that we typically hear them when a camera has true build issues.
One last question(or almost)....Do you think the swivel LCD screen on the S3 breakable? that is my only other worry that it might snap off or something.....
And what about downloading pictures....when you download them are they in JPEG format or in something else? (I have a Mac, so I am always worried about compatibility issues.)
Now I don't know....I just read the reviews of the S3 on this website and they seem to say it takes noisy/bad quality pictures in all settings.... is this true of the S5 as well? And the reviews of the S3 also say using the Macro and Super Macro features are hard (you have to hold the button while shooting the photo.)... is this the same on S5? Boy am I confused now.
I think I'm the one who confused you by talking about timelapse. That's totally different from burst. First, in the high speed burst, the S3 will take 2.3 frames per second (FPS). The S5 is slower, and will take only 1.5 FPS.
Second, you can take any number of photos you want to in an hour with either camera. No limit, just as Brenda already told you.
Third, my complaint was that the S3 timelapse function is excellent -- you can take photos anywhere from one minute to sixty minutes apart, and you can take as many as you want, even setting the camera up to take time-lapse photos over several days if you want to. So far, so good.
But the S5 changed that completely and now, you can take photos only from thirty seconds to one minute apart, and you can only take ten shots -- so you can only photograph ONE five-to-ten minute span, and that's it, no more unless you set the whole thing up again. This makes it useless for a flower unfolding, for clouds across the sky, for hot-air balloon launches, for birdfeeder surveillance, etc. etc. That's the limit I was talking about.
For your other questions: The photos download from the S3 in JPG format. The tilt/swivel LCD is of course breakable if you work at it, but it's not all that fragile and the advantages are HUGE, especially if you're holding the camera up high for group shots, or down low to get pictures of plants or babies crawling, etc.
And finally, no, the macro/super macro feature is not at all hard to use. You press the button for macro, let go, and take your photo. You press the button a couple of extra seconds for super macro, let go, and take your picture. You're not trying to hold the button down while taking the picture.
You're welcome. I should clarify a little: any graininess at the high ISO isn't really a feature of the S5, but of digital cameras in general. Most tend to get grainy at high numbers, and it's my opinion that, except for in very select situations, you can get by shooting almost ANYTHING with an ISO of 800 or under. That higher ISO might come in handy at certain times, but I don't think it's necessarily a make-or-break reason to buy the camera, since as I said, the picture quality up there probably won't be very good. What's more, you mentioned shooting moon and star scapes. Shooting those is a little different than shooting basic low light shots, and in fact it's recommended that you NOT crank the ISO when shooting the night sky (which gives off a certain amount of its own light)- so ISO 800 or lower would probably do the trick very nicely anyhow. Shoot at the lowest possible ISO for things like that. The S3 should do it.
I have not heard about the swivel LCD on the S3 being too fragile. Usually if something breaks a lot on a certain cam we're the first to hear about it, and so far, no complaints. Certainly it can be broken, but I think if you're reasonably gentle you should be just fine.
As for your last question, I think camera reviews are an EXCELLENT way to go about purchasing a camera. If everyone who owns it is complaining about a certain problem, you can reasonably expect that this problem really does exist and avoid the camera. (Just look at some of the ones on this site that have gotten Fs). On the other hand, you have to be careful sometimes, because everyone comes from a different place when they write reviews. Some people who use the S3 are expecting the photos to be DSLR-quality, and they are mildly disappointed, because it doesn't have that power. Others are using it in place of a point & shoot and they're awed by how great it is. So the reviews sort of depend on the reviewer. Something like grain is tricky, too... those people who review it as being grainy may very well just not know how to use it! I've had plenty of questions from people who claimed that cameras like the S3 gave them bad photos, and it turned out to be a case of needing to adjust the settings, take it off Auto mode and do some experimenting. I can honestly tell you that considering its image processor, its mechanisms, and the samples I've seen, both the S3 and the S5 are capable of excellent, grain-free photos. It's all in knowing how to use it. Canon is (in my opinion) one of the most grain-free producers of cameras on the market, and these are no exception.
Here are some debates for you to read over that might help:
photography-on-the.net/foru... far as pressing down the button for Macro, I am almost sure you don't have to hold the button while shooting. What you do have to do is press the button in order to access the mode (you hold it slightly longer to get into Super Macro), and perhaps while the camera focuses. That act of having to hold it down to get to Super Macro might be what people are complaining about. According to <a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... review</a>, the button "pressed once" activates Macro, and held down enables Super Macro. I'd imagine lots more complaints if you had to hold it while you shot!
Let me know if any of this helps at all!
PS love all the posts it really helps us beginners.
From everything I'm hearing / reading. (And I think I've read every review and comparison on the internet) It sounds like it makes sense to get the S3 and wait for a better upgrade past the S5. The S5 just isn't that much better yet. It has the enhancement groundworks for being much better, it just needs refining of those enhancements it has over the S3 to make it a worthwhile superior choice. In my humble opinion. Thanks everyone.
"I haven't really had a huge problem with noise. The s3 has an ISO range of 80 to "Hi" [which I think they said was supposed to be 800]. I do start getting some bothersome noise at around ISO 400, but the vast majority of that can be controlled in NeatImage pretty reasonably. I use ISO 80 almost all of the time [with zero noise], and up to ISO 200 when I really need to. With the lens capable of f/2.7, you can use ISO 80 handheld in most situations with no problems.
The differences between the S3 and S5 are:
S5 has higher resolution [again, the sensors are the same size, so you're likely going to get more noise w/ the s5]
S5 has higher ISO - up to ISO 1600; I feel pretty confident saying that you won't get a useable image at that ISO, anyway.
S5 has the face detection; that could be important if you do a lot of portraits.
S5 has capability of external flash use; that could also be important if you do a lot of flash photography - I personally don't.
S5 has 1/2" larger LCD screen; not a huge deal to me, either
S5 is slightly heavier and slightly larger.
Otherwise, they are identical. I really see no reason for my own personal use that I would need/want the S5 over the S3 that I have. I don't do much pos-processing at all on my photos because, having used film since I was a kid, I want to get it right the first time around. I don't enjoy sitting in photoshop for extended periods of time making things look better. Sometimes it's fun, but mostly I'd rather be out shooting. ;) I do the bare minimum when I have to; levels, some color balance, and converting to black and white when I think the photo would benefit from that. I don't even do very much cropping in post-process; most of the frames I've shot are as-seen."
Now I just have to save the $$ and I can order. :D
Thanks for reading .....
Question: Do you know how well the eneloops keep their charge in a hot car? I like to keep a camera handy; sometimes I have to (or accidentally) leave a camera in the car in the sun. I would love to find a battery that keeps its charge even in a hot car.
I don't have any experience with the eneloops in a hot car, however, they are listed as being much better than NiMH with weather extremes. I just ordered an 8-pack for my external flash unit. As a backup, I keep a set of CR-V3 lithium batteries with me (they have a really long shelf life). I'm still using the original set (over 2 years) that came with my Pentax camera.
you can now use the s3 as a time lapse camera with almost any interval you want. you can also save pics in RAW format. CHDK adds a battery meter and a really cool color histogram. another fine hack upgrade is control of the manual focus via the zoom lever vs using the less than ergonomic 4 way switch.
the s5 hasn't been hacked because it has the digic 3 processor.
oh yeah the hack also includes a clock, two fun games, a text reader and the option to write your own picture taking scripts to upload to the s3.
say you want the camera to take a pic every 52 seconds at a target 42 ft away with a 1/60 @f 4.0 iso 200 setting for total of 232 pics at M resolution. its easy to do.
with the s5 or any other camera you would need an attached laptop.
I'd been looking info last month, i wnat to change my LUMIX FZ-7 and i get so confused... Like kik says, "You get more info, you get deeper and sometimes, you get more confused"
Until last month i was a click to get a S3, when i found the S5, i guess that i get similar doubts like a lot of photo enthusiats that i read about.
OK, i need to thank to BrendaP for the GREAT and no scarce comments. Definitly those comments and answers are a important factor to my choice.
Thanks goes as well to LisaSmall who answer and explained the "Time lapse" thing, that feature seems awesome =)
on Summary, for my, for my hobbie related needs, the S3 is cheaper and have better features that the S5, except the HotShoe and 2.5"LCD (i'm gonna miss the 3" LUMIX Screen).
Thks again
There are a lot of great hi-zoom cameras on the market now. I've always liked Fuji cameras, even though I'm using a Pentax dSLR now. The Fuji FinePix S700 offers a budget-conscious alternative to existing megazoom cameras. It's a fairly small camera that packs a 10x optical zoom lens and a 7.1 MP sensor. With full manual control over all shooting settings as well as full auto, you can take advantage of the S700's wide ISO and shutter speed ranges to ensure you get sharp, clean images. You can find one for as low as $195 at www.buydig.com Hope this helps a little. I'm sure there are many other opinions out there, but it will be hard to beat this Fuji on price and quality.
The Kodak Z712 IS is a good option too, you can find it on Amazon (U$229). The Z712 has fast performance, point-and-shoot flexibility, 2.5"LCD, EVF, 12X (36-432 mm) Optical Lens (With I.S.), 7MP,.... etc
I think that is a good choice too ;)
Two problems:
1.
At end of installation a final panel asks which software should it launch. But the option dialog is blank, ie no software to launch.
After reboot I connect camera, switch it on.
Windows reports camera is connected and ready. SD card is in camera with images.
Then...
2.
When running EOS utility, the option to download & select images and modify camera settings are grayed out and inaccessible (tried many times). Only Modify Folder is ever accessible.
Any solutions?
TIA
Martin
But frankly, Martin, it's more trouble than it's worth to fix. Swing by a Best Buy, Circuit City or similar and purchase a Memory card reader for about $10. PLug it in via USB and slide the SD card in and your pictures are available with a simple drag and drop. Nice and Easy 104.
Martin
Hope that helps!!
all the best photographer!!
revhead
Fuji: F30d, F31fd, F40 (expensive, uses different memory cards than the Casio)
Sony: T-100 or N2 (also uses different memory)
These are the only options I'm suggesting because #1: I don't like Casio (lol) and #2: You seem to be referring to ultra-compacts, so I don't want to suggest the larger Pansonic Lumix (great cameras, though, like the LZ7).
Your best best is probably the SD700IS... great image quality, normal zoom range like the Casios, same memory card, optical viewfinder, etc.
But pictures are so important to recall past memories! Think of everything you're missing :)
As soon as I read your post, I thought of the Olympus Stylus line, because (although the 770W is the toughest of the group by far) all of them are designed to be extra-rugged, water-resistant, etc. (Not all of the Stylus can go underwater, but they're designed to keep out moisture, protect against shocks, etc.) Unfortunately I don't believe any of them offer an electronic viewfinder. Also unfortunately, I can't think of any other compact digitals at the moment that are quite as tough as these. So I guess the question is, what's more important- the viewfinder or the durability? Let me know if the viewfinder is integral, and I'll try to help you find some other models that, while not as tough as these, may do the job...
Lastly, and I assume most cameras are now this way, no delay in shutter...my good old Coolpix 5000 got good pictures but the shutter delay just does not cut it..
Thanks for the help! Oh yes, I believe only Canon has viewfinders and they said they do not have even a water resistent sub/compact digital...Phil::
I totally understand your need for the viewfinder. On the plus side, I've owned a Canon A-series camera for quite a few years, and although it's not advertised as being rugged, waterproof, or otherwise, the thing is an absolute tank. I've dropped it, stepped on it, dropped it again, taken it out in the snow, left it in my car, and it still runs like a workhorse. By comparison, other cameras I've owned would break if I looked at them sideways. What I'm saying is, if the Olympus that is advertised as durable doesn't suit your needs, I'm wondering if you couldn't get away with purchasing a Canon and having it live up to some rough handling.
Unfortunately, though, most of the Canon ultra compacts are the Elphs (the SD-series), and although they're fantastic cameras, the earlier ones had a problem with very delicate LCD screens. I've heard about this problem enough to be wary of them when people ask for durable cameras, and although the newer Elphs (the SD1000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is fantastic) do have improved LCDs in terms of view, I have not heard it said that they've improved in terms of durability. The camera does have an optical viewfinder, so I suppose a broken LCD wouldn't be the end of the world, but I doubt you want to let the screen break and continue using the camera. It might be worth looking into whether the screen really is more durable in the newer ones; I haven't heard that it is, however.
I might suggest for you, since my old A-series is so rugged and the new ones haven't changed much, something like the A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This camera does have a plastic body, and apparently the switch cover is somewhat flimsy, but in terms of overall durability the bodies of these models tend to be resilient (and they do have optical viewfinders). With a little bit of care it would likely hold up to quite a bit of handling. Not so sure about waterproof, though.
Also, in terms of delay/ lag, you're right- most newer models are doing just fine on this. The Canons are now using a faster processor that has reduced shutter lag quite a bit, and while no camera eliminates it completely (the big fancy DSLRs come the closest to doing so), you should be much happier with the new ones in terms of this problem; they have really sped up.
Thanks again...this is my first time posting and appreciate the help!
Phil::
The LCD problem with the Elphs was an actual physical break, with the screen cracking or blobbing on many users. Most complaints were that it took a minimal amount of pressure (like carrying it in a pocket or purse) to make this happen. What's more, it wasn't covered under warranty since it counted as mis-handling.
I did a little bit more reading on it, and found something interesting. Someone has stated that the problem with the screens breaking on earlier Elphs was a manufacturing error. I don't necessarily buy that, but this person does claim that the newer screens (2.5-inch vs. 2-inch) are clear of this error and more durable. <a href="reviews.cnet.com/Canon_Powe... the link... take from it what you will. I will add to that, that while I haven't heard a ton of people talking about the newer Elphs, so far I haven't heard the amount of complaints that I heard immediately about the LCD problems with the older models. I would hope that if the new ones were just as bad as the old ones, there would have been a deluge of complaints about it by now. Just a theory.
I didn't think of this before, but of course, if you do want an Elph, there are screen protectors available, and that might help even if the new cameras have the same delicate screen. You can also buy a hard case for it and just take it out when you're ready to shoot.
In terms of image quality, I honestly think that there's not really a difference between the A-series and the SDs. Provided you choose a camera with comparable megapixels and all of that, I think both have excellent quality. A few years ago, the main difference was that the A-series were larger while the SDs were the compacts that lacked the manual controls of the A-series, but with some of the new A-series coming out as ultracompacts, that doesn't really apply anymore. But in terms of factors that affect image quality, there really isn't anything that puts one of them ahead of the other. The A-series runs on AA rather than the lithium-ion of the SD; the lens on the A-series tends to stick out while the SD retracts all the way in; etc.
For shutter lag, you should be safe if you're buying one of the new models. Look for something with the Digic III processor (as opposed to the older Digic II) for absolute fastest response; you should have no problem getting a lag that's under 1 second with these.
I know I'm throwing a ton of info at you here, so if you're looking at a few different cameras and are unsure how to decide, let me know which ones they are and I'll try to help narrow it down.
As for indoor/low light quality that's hard to detail since it doesn't have a video light built in. However, there are several companies out there that have small LED lights that can be added by screwing them into the tripod screw. Those are good ideas if your shooting low light video.
But allow me to make an pitch for using several smaller cards, rather than one large one. Reason being, insurance. Any memory card can fail or become corrupted. And when you're on vacation the last thing you want is to lose the opportunity to take pictures until you can recover that media card with a software utility. If your card goes bad, swapping another one for it at that moment is of advantage so you can keep taking pics. Then, later when you're in front of your PC, you can use a utility like F-recover to get back your pictures and recover your card.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one large one when several smaller ones can solve that problem.
Thank you for answering to my question. I realize the issue with the corruption. My use for SDHC was for videoclips use like this specific camera can record video so 1GB video clip is enough to not create a corruption issue for those high capacity secure digital cards.
The corruption you speak of seems to come from the limitations of the file system structure that is used for storing the pictures on SD.
Look up the limitations of the FAT12, FAT16 or FAT32 for the root directory. It limits the number of files that can be stored. But if you use the folder mode where pictures are stored then that limitations are eliminated, then the corruption will not occur except in the special case where the number of folders in the root directory exceed the limitation imposed by the file system structure.
I know what I've said above are mostly technical mumbo jumbo, but it's the reality. Try to remember the old days of MS-DOS and the floppies. Try to remember how many files of very small size can be stored in the root directory of the floppy and you'll have your answer.
Best regards,
Eugen
Hope to be helpful,
Alan Schamber.
Thanks... :p
Alan.
PS: The F40 fd has been just released... but there's not a review yet. If you can wait for it... do it... so you have three from where to choose... if not, buy the F30 or F31 fd.
actually the only way is to get more light in the room. You can double check the ISO setting in your camera and set it to the highest number. But if you are shooting in fully automatic mode then most likely the camera already uses the highest ISO.
I am not going to change my operating system to suit them, but may have to return the camera for one that works in my computer!
Is it possible that you know where on the internet one can find this slightly older driver? Lots of references on the net quote this camera (A550) as working with win98, even win95, and I assume they are just being difficult. Any ideas please?
Thanks.
swameejee@netzero.net
You need not change your OS because of the camera, and you can forget about 5.7.0 or Twain driver altogether if you have a card reader and Picasa2.
For $10 or so, you can get a card reader with a driver CD for for Win 98SE and Picasa2 is a free picture viewing and editing software that you can down load from internet.
The card reader-Picasa combination is the best idea that many have tried and Picasa has more surprise for you in store, it can burnt you pictures directly to CD and render them viewable on TVs through the VCD/DVD player.
I emailed Canon and called the tech support people with the problem over a week ago, but their answer was the standard win 2k and up one.
However, I solved the problem myself and found a drive on the installation CD that comes with the camera! It even has a reference to win98 in the folder name. Now I can see the photos on the camera SD memory card. Since we have just purchased a new Canon printer (MP600) which works well and has sockets for these memory cards, we were hoping to be able to read the card contents from the printer SD socket directly into the computer. Windows 98se does show a drive letter for the SD card whenever it is plugged into the printer and we can print photos that way, one at a time, but cannot access the photos from the computer. I have seen this situation often enough to know that we need another driver for the printer so that the USB connection can be used for photos into the computer. FYI I have been a technician for many years.
Most people have suggested a Card Reader and we have solved the problem that way, with a nice unit by Trendnet, model TMR-61U2. It comes with a CD with drivers on it which work in Win98. A different model from Radio Shack did not come with a CD and the downloaded driver software didn't not just work, it had a Trojan Horse virus in it (which their tech support denied upon my email). So beware!
The best price I found was at www.provantage.com and the price did vary considerably across the 'net.
Another thing I liked about the Trendnet model is that in addition to the driver CD, it comes with a genuine USB 3 foot long extension cable, which is perfect to bring our recently purchased USB 2.0 card output to the front, where other USB stuff can be easily plugged in for a while.
Let me know if you're still struggling with this and I will try to help further. But you mentioned buying a card reader, so I'm assuming you have it working. This is a good solution anyhow, as a card reader saves batteries and wear & tear on your camera anyhow.
The Trendnet card reader and its provided driver works well with windows 98se. More recently, I switched over to Windows 2000 and everything works OK as advertised. I can even see the card slots in the Canon MP600 printer and read and write to the memory card from the computer. So the problem always was a matter of a correct driver. So firms seem to have abandoned win98se since M$ has also done so. Maybe a combination of pressure from M$ and laziness.
Swamiji
U can find the manuals & Softwares for canon a550 in the link below.
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... Just go thru this link,
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
my reasons are
1. special indoor modes for low light shooting
2. very good marco mode
3. af spot focusing great for photographs
I use mine for a lot of indoor shots of of botanical subjects
According to the A550's promo materials:
"The bundled software supports Windows 2000 (SP4), XP (SP1/2), Vista and Macintosh OS X v10.3-v10.4. The cameras support PTP for driverless transfer to Windows XP and Macintosh OS X, along with MTP for image and movie transfers to Windows Vista."
However, the official Canon site ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) plays it a bit closer to their chests:
"Canon is conducting compatibility tests for the current versions of Canon digital imaging software with the shipping versions of Mac OS X 10.4 [Tiger]. Results will be posted soon. For now, Canon is not claiming compatibility with Mac OS X 10.4"
That said, I think you probably won't have many problems with it, and the latter quote is just corporate butt-covering.
Hope this helps!
You might look at the Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is a 7.1 MP camera that has the movie mode with sound that you're looking for. This line has also been complimented for its shooting speed. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
From your Windows,
a. click 'Start' at the lower left hand corner.
b. move your cursor, the arrow controlled by the mouse, up until it rests on 'Settings', click 'settings' then move the cursor to the right and click 'Control Panel'
c. In the Windows that appears, move the cursor and click "Display'
d. In the Display window, click 'Settings' at the top right hand corner.
e. In the new Window, move cursor to the down arrow of the rectangle 'Color' . Click 'High color 16 bit'
f. In the rectangle 'Screen area' , move the slide to the right until you get '1024 x 768'
g. click OK to confirm.
h. reboot your computer.
Problem in installing the Canon digital Camera Solution Disk version 30.
When i try to install the software ( Photostitch and ZoomBrowser EX ) in solution disk ver 30, it seems that the ZoomBrowser EX cannot be installed completely. Photostitch is completely installed but i don't know what is the problem to ZoomBrowser EX. I also try to uninstall them and restart my pc but the problem still occured when installing them back. Please advise me how to solve this problem.
well, the Canon has more zoom, more megapixels and optical viewfinder that makes it more advanced camera than the Panasonic.
But if u want to go for an ultra compact model u can also have the options to buy many other cameras, which has more options and better features than Panasonic.
Canon is good and compact, but it looks somewhat bigger comparable to the other slim models in market.
But, Comparing to these two models, Canon A550 is good.
The Powershot line has been around for quite a while (I've had a Powershot S230 for 5 years and it still works great). Both of the cameras you have listed above are 7.1 MP resolutions, so you won't have problems with 4x6 and even up to 20x30 prints (if the sharpness setting is set for the finest level). Both cameras also have the same frame rate per second for faster shooting speeds. The major differences in these cameras are the DIGIC II Image Processor on the Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the ISO 1600 setting on the A560 (better in low light situations). Note that neither of these cameras has Image Stabilization though. Between these two, I would go with the A560 because of hte higher ISO setting.
If image stabilization is something you really want, you might try the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) ($255). It also has 7.1 MP, ISO 80-800, and a longer reaching 6x optical zoom (the other two only have 4). This comes with the same easy user interface as the other two cameras as well.
Andrew
Do you dislike how photos end up fuzzy because someone was running or not being still or your hand was shaking?
Image Stabilization actually prevents the fuzz from happening.
This is odd. What camera do you have? Your memory card may be locked. There should be a toggle along the side that you can swtich to unlock and your images may come back that way. Also, I would try downloading the images from your memory card through an external memory card reader through your computer. It may be an issue with the camera. I hope this helps.
Andrew
You can compare the features of both using the link below.
dpreview.com/reviews/compar... dont have any idea about the performance of c875. But i have A550, and its easy to use and doing better. I can send u the links of steves reviews of both the cameras.
Just look at it.
steves-digicams.com/2007_re...
www.usa.canon.com..
Thanks..
Very disappointing Canon.
Simon, Dublin
Canon PowerShot A550 Reviews
Canon PowerShot A550 Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
Gives U preety Good and effective Results
- 2.0 out of 5
I too have the same problem. The batteries do not connect properly and soon after a few snaps the battery low warning is given. I have to take out the battery and replace with new ones. This is the case with the batteries received along with the camera and also with new rechargable batteries tried.
How ever the picture quality is fine. I was under the impression that it was only my camera which has this defect and may be it was my bad luck as I always perceived that Canon Quality and performance are well above the rest
- 2.0 out of 5
Three family members received this camera as their Christmas gift this December '07. We all were excited to use the camera, however, 2 out of the 3 of us had the same problem: the battery charge is not connecting properly to the camera making it not usable. It worked briefly, then no longer can work. After trying numerous types batteries,(including the ones that came with the camera), one camera had to be returned already. Another is likely to be returned soon as it just started after 1 month having the same exact issue. So as of February 5, 2008 only one of the 3 cameras works. Very frustrating that the camera overall is great but the battery charge issue makes it not usable unless I constantly remove the battery & put it back in so it works for a few mins. at a time...I have not seen or heard of anyone else besides the 2 of us having this issue so maybe it was a random defect just in our cameras, but I am planning on returning it for another type of camera at this point.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is the first digital camera I have bought, and I'm extremely glad that I picked this one. It is easy to operate, easy to upload pictures (using the included software), has great image quality, and great features. It has many included settings that can be used in different light situations, and you can change the colors to black and white, sepia toned, neutral or vivid colors, and more. The video quality is also good.
One downside is that you have to have to rotate your pictures manually (something that i know the newer Canon models do automatically), but that's not a very good reason not to buy the camera.
I even dropped this camera on a hardwood floor a few months ago, and it still works fine (the battery cover now pops open slightly, but not enough to let the batteries fall out). It still works the same as it did before.
Being just a teenager, this camera has inspired me to become a professional photographer. Buy it now.
- 4.0 out of 5
This is my secondary digital camera. My primary camera is a Kodak Z650. I bought this camera primarily to keep in my (jacket/jersey) pocket so I can take snapshots while I'm out hiking/bike riding. In that capacity I'm very pleased with this camera.
It also has plenty of options to keep the more advanced photographers happy including a manual setting that lets you adjust most, but not all settings (ie. no way to set the shutter speed).
I've compared the photo quality to my Kodak Z650 and found that the Kodak takes sharper photos, which is expected given the larger optics on the Kodak. These differences in image quality would not be noticable even on 8x10 prints, and are only noticable when zooming in using an image viewing program.
While the LCD screen is small compared to other cameras in this range (2" vs 2.5"), the viewfinder makes up for this (in my opinion) as I've yet to use a digital camera with a LCD screen that is easily viewed in bright sunlight.
The A550 is easy to use, with all functions easy to access. Changing photo parameters like image size and compression quality is easy without having to navigate through a series of menus.
Canon's also have a good reputation for reliability and customer satisfaction. And to quote an employee who works in the electronics section of a local store, "I see very few Canon's returned as compared to other brands".
- 5.0 out of 5
Last week i bought this camera and i found it is very handy and useful so far. 30 frames/second on video recording is really good. Photos are of good quality too. The superfine mode allows to take photos in extra clarity. This camera got a decent battery life too.
The only thing I am not 100 satisfied is the size of the LCD display it just 2 inches not 2.5.
Anyway by all other means it's a really great camera. I am happy about buying this.
- 4.0 out of 5
I took this camera travelling, takes good quality pix, fast capture speed, it's great and reliable. Now after almost 2 years, the zoom lens won't retract and have send back to Canon for repairs. I always buy extended warrenties on this little portables. Hope the repair shop returns it ok.
