Canon PowerShot A710 IS
- 4.0 out of 5
- 4.0 out of 5
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Editors' Comments
The A710 IS is Canon's first point-and-shoot to offer image stabilization, for reducing jitters and blur in deep zoom photos. When Canon debuted the A700, the 6x optical zoom was a new frontier for point-and-shoot cameras. It was very popular, but it wasn't quite perfect. Though not as susceptible to shaking and jittering as smaller, less sturdy cameras, the A700's larger-than-average zoom still could have used some support. Well, with the A710 IS, Canon has done just that, bringing back the popular feature set and design fo the A700, while adding advanced image stabilization technology. The IS, the fantastic 7.1 megapixel sensor and ability to take 16:9, wide-aspect still photos, make the A710 IS a truly superior camera for casual users looking for some easy-to-use power.
Specifications
- 7.1 megapixels
- 6x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
- Image Stabilization
- Auto focus, auto and manual exposure
- ISO 80-800
- Movie mode, with sound
- 2.5-inch LCD display
- Secure Digital storage (16MB SD card included)
- JPEG file format
- 2 AA batteries
Comments on the Canon A710 IS
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Canon PowerShot A710 IS Reviews
- 4.32006920415225 out of 5
Canon PowerShot A710 IS Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 3.0 out of 5
Great camera except for this obviously overdone built in obsolescence feature: the 'memory card error' 'card locked' message. Pins aren't bent, have tried another memory card - no joy. Now I'll miss out on photos at my son's 6th and daughter's 3rd birthday. Good job Canon.
- 5.0 out of 5
with 2 aa lithium disposable batteries and 2GB memory card
you can be on the beach, in rain forest, in mountains, among friends, with your family, sailing, dancing, flying - you can with little effort and some knowledge of the camara always take a excellent pictures. One trouble - you will, sooner or later fall in love with this little marvel - with a number of program you want explore. That little all capable Monster.
- 2.0 out of 5
My friend sold me this Canon A710 1 weeks ago ahead of a wedding I just attended. I was torn between the Panasonic LZ7 and Canon A710 as it seemed the LZ7 had sharper indoor pictures. Well most of the wedding photos indoors zoomed without flash are all blurred a major disappointment! I got suckered at $125 and my friend won't even take it back! The IS feature and "manual" control is just a scam that all the other cameras have anyway. I can't say for sure this is a problem of the camera or whether the photos would blur with any camera indoors on zoom. It just seems I'd rather not own any camera than one for a few bucks less that doesn't even have clear pictures! Outside the photos are better but notice as you zoom on PC it gets very granular, unlike the old 2MP Canon I have from 2003. I feel like buying another camera just to compare out of stubbornness.
- 5.0 out of 5
Bought in Australia as a impulse buy. Brilliant camera with more features than you can shake a stick at. I have even used the movie mode at kids parties with good results and they don't know your filming them because it doesn't look like a video camera. It has anti shake which is a lifesaver when the light starts to go. The lcd screen is huge.
Only downsides are viewfinder doesn't show all the captured image and the flash recycling times are really slow.
totally recommended.
- 5.0 out of 5
I bought this camera after reading many reviews and this one seemed to suit me and my requirements bes.. I am so very happy with almost every aspect. It is my constant companion and hardly ever disappoints me. Very easy to use and handle. The optical zoom is excellent but even the digital zoom quality surprises me! Sometimes I even use it as binoculars when I can't see something in the distance...it's that strong ! Crazy!
But takes great pictures in low light. Takes great pictures with NO light. The flash fills in a complete room even in pitch dark and takes an indoor photo as if it were 12 noon. Excellent color.
Image stabilization - no blurry pictures ! Great for boaters .
Bright, Easy to see photos on 2 1/2" LCD.
It is a great, easy to use camera accomplishing the task at hand---great pictures 99.9% of the time.
My only 2 negatives: Doesn't zoom in as you take videos...don't know if this is a digital camera limitaion or just on this one...
And the other difficulty is just working with the Manual setting and trying to figure out how to adjust the f-stop and aperture settings...but when you get it, the pics come out great.
Definitely like the size and shape...bigger than the slippery little ELF, and so doesn't feel like it's going to crash and burn when grappling with a photo..has a good grip.
Definitely like the AA rechargeable batteries...they have a pretty long life and if you buy a 2 GB photo chip, you can get 1,000 pictures in hi-res. and up to 2, 000 pics in lower resolution.
One of my favorite features is the AudioVisual Cable that makes showing friends and family your pictures on the TV a snap ! They love it and are impressed to see pictures immediately in large format. I always keep my AV cable in my little camera bag
I had 2 cousins who bought the same camera when they saw what it could do..and have one friend considering it for her next purchase.
I know you'll love it !
- 3.0 out of 5
I agree with most reviews I have read. I really get annoyed with nightclub type photos, persay taking photos of a band is the pits. You get a good shot and it takes at times 10 to 15 seconds before you can get the nest shot. Now you go outside and the camera will get ready for the next shot in rapid time. I think the lag time is terrible for low light situations. Other than, I like the camera for the most part. And yes, I have tried the faster cards, and no change in those type areas are improved. I am open for suggestions..
- 5.0 out of 5
Pros:
1-Image stabilization....no blurry pictures even if u have tremors.
2-6X Optical zoom plus even the pictures at digital zoom are excellent.
3-Big, sharp LCD especially useful if u r taking close shots .
4-Battery life is good.
Cons:
1-No carrying pouch included in the box.
SUMMARY:
INCLUDES BOTH AUTOMATIC SETTINGS FOR BEGINERS AND MANUAL FOR A PROFESSIONAL.
- 5.0 out of 5
My Canon PowerShot A710 IS camera arrived today and I couldn't be happier. There are several points I will make for anyone interested in finding a camera with many features with a user-friendly interface:
1. There are captions that appear when an icon is highlighted to remind the user of its function
2. The hardware design is simple and easy to use
3. The software design is simple and easy to use
4. It takes wonderful pictures indoors without flash
5. There are advanced features so I am not likely to out-grow it
- 4.0 out of 5
As I had researched a lot before purchasing A710 IS I knew pros and cons before actually using it. My decision to go for it was due to (in the order of priority):
1. Possibility of manual control.
2. 6X optical zoom.
3. Reasonably compact for 6X optical zoom camera.
4. Reasonable price.
5. Well known brand.
6. 7 Megapixels
Of course, it would have been better if:
1. There was no limit of 1GB for video recording.
2. The video format was more compact version. Around eight minutes with 1GB is too short!
3. Optical zoom was possible for video recording.
4. Flash recycling time was shorter.
5. Body parts were more metal than cheap feeling plastic.
6. The package included rechargeable battery and charger.
- 5.0 out of 5
I bought the Canon A710IS at Christmas and am loving the results apart from the latest " Memory Card Error - card locked ! " message which appeared one week and 600 photos in a Vietnam holiday. In other reviews I see the Canon S400 has a memory card error too. Does anyone have advise on how to retrieve my once-in-a-lifetime snaps ?
- 5.0 out of 5
I spent hours looking for a digital to "replace" my 35mm. We had purchased two other digitals in the past. Neither as easy to use as the Canon PowerShot A710. Love the black and white option! Love the Image Stablization! We have three children...taking pictures of them requires image stablization! Love the lcd screen! Overall, an excellent camera. Very glad I chose this one.
- 4.0 out of 5
After reviewing cameras for hours both in stores and online, I chose the A710 IS. I upgraded from a Sony Cybershot 5MP. I have taken about 200 pictures in different settings using my Sony and the Canon for comparison. My biggest complaint with my Sony was poor image quality with indoor shots. The Canon does much better. Overall, I have been satisfied with the colors and picture quality. I chose the Canon over a few others because it is small enough to put in your pocket yet it does have a few advanced options like aperture priority, shutter priority, and exchangeable lenses. I have not played with these but my dad teaches photography classes and he says having them is a "good thing." I noticed that the reviews stated that flash recharge time was slow. It is VERY SLOW (usually 5-10 seconds compared to 3-6 for the Sony). Otherwise I have been happy with the results and would recommend the camera for people who love to point and shoot but aspire to learn more about advanced settings in the future.
- 5.0 out of 5
Awesome camera! Loads of features! Takes great photos! Need I say more?
- 5.0 out of 5
I use a 300D as my main camera and did use an Ixus digital that has given faithful service as a pocketable camera for 6 years un till I found I was not using it enough to justify replacing the batteries (expensive). Hence the 710is. Reasons - fairly small so fits in a shirt pocket, AA batteries so they won't spoil through lack of camera use, high pixel rating, 6X zoom, image stabalisation and finally price @ £200.
Bought at lunch time and by the evening I had as good a set of picture as I have ever had. Found it easy to use, all controls and settings easy to find and play with. Batteries no problem as I was shooting in near zero temperatures and had two more sets keeping warm in my pocket. IS was a great help photographing in extremely high winds even at full zoom (some shots would not have been possible with the 300D) and when I was shivering with cold.
As a second serious camera this is my reccomenadation. I know it has a few quirks like slow flash recycle, so has any camera but on picture quality, ease of use, and image stability, this camera was easy to use straight from the box. I read the manual to check on a few points I couldn't work out for myself, but it is all second nature now. Buy it and play with it and I am sure you will enjoy your photography.
- 4.0 out of 5
unfortunitely i purchased a canon A700 last summer- it had some clitches, and i got some pretty awful results along w/ mistakingly erasing all the pictures on the disc ,not once but twice. both times done a darkened theater where i could not see any of the controls..advice: bring a pocket flash lite along if goin to shoot in darkened areas. memorizing the controls is not easy when you can not see the camera prompts clearly..tha tbeing said, i also got some excellent photos.well balanced color wise with nice saturation.. i got the yen to improve upon the situation, when i saw the new A710 is released by canon basically as a replacement for the A700.. with three major changes ,otherwise the same layout and configuratrions as the A700-slightly heavier,same feel - the improvements are substancial — 1. Image stabilization (IS) added.2. 1.1 more pixels up from 6 to 7.1 and lastly a bewtter coordinated flash. less light more flash , more light less flash. no guarentees against "white out" of close by subjects, but a little less harsh and a little more forgiving. am positive canon added other subtile improvements w/o making a big deal out of it. They go out of their way not to make owners of discontinued for newer model products,feel no malcontent.. I now have both cameras ,using the older A700 as a back up for the new A710is— this is easy to do. if you buy the auxiliary lenses and tube to put them on the nifity little digicam, you will find these auxiliary items fit both cameras. in my case that is what swung me to the A710 is .. Olympus uses auxiliary lenses for their SD -350 ,but neglected any olympus owner who wanted to upgrade to their newer SD 510 model. differant size thread for both camera auxiliary optical products..NOT NICE olympus...canon seems to have more comman sense or at least are more in tune w/ their audiences.In conclusion- The A710is is versatile,easy to grip,but still laden w/ bugs a novice user is apt to trigger, just the same as its predicessor the A 700.. using care in the menu options goes a long way towards producing better photos and less stress..
- 5.0 out of 5
I've owned a 1.3 olympus for 3 years now and finally upgraded to the Olypmus A710 IS. This is a great user friendly camera with outstanding prints! I highly recommend the Olympus brand. I tried other digital cameras and had trouble with their menus and obtaining a clear picture. With the Olympus's image stabilization I have not gotten one bad photo. I have also had fantastic luck without using the IS! The body has a wonderful hand grip compared to most. Great product!
- 2.0 out of 5
This camera has so much potential. If you only take outdoor pictures, this camera is outstanding. However, you will not be happy with indoor shots which require a flash. The red eye reduction does not really work and some pictures are grainy. I just returned the camera today.
- 5.0 out of 5
We upgraded from the Kodak Easy Share with a 3.1 mp. The Canon A710 IS takes amazing photos. The picture quality is crystal clear. I saw some complaints about the time elapse for the flash, I dont see it as much of a problem with our camera. The cycle flash is about 5 seconds which is completely fine for what we use this camera for. The image stabilization works great, our Kodak didn't have that luxury and the picture quality was not as good as the Canon. I did a ton of research on the cameras and this is the first purchase I have made in electronics that I am extremely happy with.
- 3.0 out of 5
I have two Olympus digital cameras (Evolt 500 and an old C-3030) and have had excellent pictures from these cameras. I used my son's 5 megapixel Olympus compact when I went to Europe a couple of years ago and took alot of pictures of relatives using the flash indoors etc. with NO
RED-EYE. Well last month I decided I needed to get a smaller camera to use when I didn't want to use my EVOT 500 and read the reviews. The A710 IS had good reviews and I liked the IS and the 6X features so being open-minded I bought it. It is a great camera for outdoors and I love the 6X Zoom. My X-mas pictures inside are a Red-Eye Nightmare (people and pets)with the Red-Eye Feature ON. My friend (A Canon Owner and Groupie)told me she solves her red-eye problem by making sure to tell the people not to look at the camera. I should have used my Olympus cause I would never have to include "don't look at the camera" as part of my picture taking vocabulary!! Also in certain lighting the LCD screen has blue vetical streaks that are very distracting and annowing. In general the LCD resolution is below average and I had to reposition the camera several times to get it clear. Maybe I got a lemmon but with these problems I took it back to the store yesterday. I will say that the picture quality other than the problem of the RED-EYEs was good, especially outdoors.
- 5.0 out of 5
A camera truely in a class of it's own, especially at the price tag avaliable. Not only is it's image quality comparable to cameras hundreds of dollars more, but the fact that it has the full manual controls you'd expect from an 800 dollar camera is unbelievable. With 6x optical zoom, and the ability to add an additional telephoto lens making it an ultra zoom, you simply cannot find a camera of similar size and zoom ability. Add to that the image stabilized lens, and you suddenly have a camera that can take photos of the quality that normally would require a tripod. Now that's unbelievable, I mean if it didn't have the manual controls, it would be so so, but this is truely a camera that can be exploited for the best pictures around (at this price range). I totally recommend reading the review at dcresource.com. Look at their sample photos, and then look at the same subjects with other cameras. This baby speaks for itself!
- 5.0 out of 5
Hi,
I am using this camera for the past one week. It is good to see the Image Stabilization. My friend has A700 which does not have IS. More than that!... instead of 6 MP, 7.1 is a gift!.. anyway.. its a good camera!.. Up to now no problem... Battery life is acceptable range!..
- 3.0 out of 5
in many circumstances this cameral is excellent and those points have been fully described by others. I have been very disappointed in the recycle time for the flash and the reluctance for the shutter to function in low light. It is almost as the camera has a mind of its own and takes the picture when it feels like it. Forget candid shots, you need to coach people to be patient and wait for the camera to take its picture. In sunlight don't bother looking at the backscreen,nothing can be seen. Thank goodness for the optical viewfinder even though it is only an approximation of the actual picture you will take.
- 5.0 out of 5
Not sure what the other poster was referring to. the Canon software works fine with my Mac, however I rarely use the Canon software because I have other programs that I prefer. I am unable to speak to the complaints about flash as I never use flash - one of the reasons I purchased this camera is its ability to photo in low light - the shutter speed preferred mode is outstanding for night street scenes, etc. Images are tack sharp, and yes the OIS works beautifully. Like most digicams, noise is unacceptable above 200 ISO. Great buy for the money. Would love to see Canon add more wide to the zoom - say a 28mm equivalent, and also a rotating LCD - then you would have the perfect point and shoot ! Recommended without hesitation.
- 2.0 out of 5
The software in the box with this camera corrupted 400 of my images in a photo folder in my Mac. I have never had anything corrupted in any Mac computer I have had until I installed their software with the Canon A710 IS. I spent a good two hours with CANON tech who said they never heard of this... I sent images of my photo files that were corrupted... I'm afraid to use this camera... why are they selling a camera with faulty software? How can a consumer send a message to Canon we will not stand for faulty equipment right out of the box.
- 5.0 out of 5
I like the 6x optical. With the strong optical, and also digital zoom, I can read the small print on a CD disk clear across the room. This camera allows you to "zoom in" on the photo on the LCD itself (after you snap the picture). What I mean is that you can MAGNIFY little parts of the photo, and scroll around.
DISAPPOINTMET: Just slightly larger than my Canon A520—-it's amazing how just a few extra millimeters add bulk to the pocket. But then I looked closely at a Canon A630 today, and that camera is so large I would consider it non-pocketable. So I don't think I ever want to get a camera any larger than the A710.
I like the ability to add a sound memo to a photo; you can go back to a photo that's in the camera, and record a message. Maybe other digicams do this, too? I don't know. But I do like the feature.
- 4.0 out of 5
I spent 20 days researching cameras and finally picked up the 710 IS - had everything i needed 9and some more) - >6mp, Image stabilization, a viewfinder, AA batteries.
Ive spent two days just getting to know the camera - and i strikes me that this has everything. It gives you (if you want)control over eversingle parameter of photography. So at one level - you have (almost) no excuse for a bad photograph with this.
This is my first digital camera ever, and I still intend to keep my Nikon F55...
The flip side of the level of control you have is that - outside of the point & shoot modes - things get quite complicated quite quickly. I have spent about a day reading the manual - and the range of little dinky things to press (and buttons with multiple function buttons) is a bit bewildering, for someone used to a manual SLR ...
Nevertheless, this seems a great camera, solid to the feel too - and I am looking forward to growing to know it. At 330$, it seemed like great value for money too, compared to the competition. I guess in couple of weeks I might post a more detailed/knowledgable review too. Thanks everyone at digital cam HQ, for everything on the site that i used for all my research
- 5.0 out of 5
I have bought this camera and took on a trip to great ocean road and took more than 650 shots. All i can say i am amazed at the quality and the speed of this camera. Has decent battery life. i got more than 180 shots using the alkalines that came with the camera. and the 6x zoom and image stabilization is just awesome and the main feature that led me to buy this camera.
- 3.0 out of 5
Without writing an essay, the A710 has many good qualities (zoom, ease, image stabilization) but the cons are limiting if you are going to be taking indoor shots. The flash recycle is very long and the camera is frequently quite reluctant to take a shot. There is no such thing as a good candid shot except as pure luck for the camera will fiddle around for three or four seconds (or more) while it decides to respond to the shutter (and this is after the flash is ready to go). You can count on red eye for at least half of your photos to boot so there is no such thing as a non-processed shot. For outdoor shots with any amount of sunshine you can completely forget being able to see anything in the lcd screen. I read warnings of all of these problems but there so many glowing reviews I plunged ahead. I am now thinking of buying a Nikon 50 and relegating the A710 to backup mode and outdoor travel shots. I suspect some of the reviews that are sent in to these sites are written by friends of Canon.
- 4.0 out of 5
Hi, I bought the A710 IS 10 days ago and I'm mixed up in my opinion about it. On one hand it can do all the smart things and manual settings, that even would please a professional, on the other hand as a point and shoot camera it fails espacially in low light conditions where wide angle 35 mm and flash is used. The flash is very poor in wide angle situations, as the light is not spread to the whole area. You can see what I mean here: http://www.trustedreviews.com/article.aspx?page=8417&head=0
It seems however that canon wanted to make it possible to change almost every possible settings in this camera, so they even added the possibility to change the flash strength, and this would have been very good if the flash just didn't suffer this major spreading problem. Having said that, it is possible to make very good indoor pictures with or without the flash, if you use the manual settings and compensates for this fault i.e. by zooming in to the illuminated area, put down the flash strenght, and compensate for the low light by using, ISO, Aperture, Shutter speed, OIS settings.
It's very easy to change settings on the A710 and this is really positive. There are a lot of build in programs, and some of them are set quickly by turning the mode-selector wheel. I can really recoomend using some of these modes espacially aperture-priority. Some times it is better that you and not the camera's Auto-setting decides if there is enough light or not, and by adjusting aperture and ISO, the Camera will decide which fastest shutterspeed could be used with these settings.
About the batteries:
The supplied Business Alkalines did pretty well, but my used 1600 mAH AA NiMH batteries did very very poor, so I bought som new 2500mAH NiMH batteries, and they perform better - however not as good as Canon promise.
About the movie-Zoom.
It does not have optical movie zoom, but the digital movie zoom seems to be quite usefull, as long as you dont go all the way.
My conclusion:
If you want a point and shoot camera, stay away from Canon A710, as it's not good in Auto mode. But if you want to buy a low price camera, with all possible manual adjustments, and excellent features and specifications, this might be the one for you as you can "learn" how to act as an professional photographer on this camera. So for you low budget pro-wannabe's - go get it.
pros:
- All manual adjustments possible: Aperture, Shutterspeed, ISO, Manual Focus, White Balance, Flash Strength, metering (semi manual)
- Some very useful program-modes (but not the full auto program)
- 6 x zoom
- Optical Stabilizer (very useful)
- Good image quality
- Possible to take useful indoor pictures without flash
- pretty good movie mode
- Easy to use interface, even on manual settings
Cons:
- Poor flash light spreading (worst in 35 mm mode)
- Poor flash light recycle time (because of the batteries)
- The Full Auto program not reallly good
- Battery life not impressing
- only 10 secs Audio note taker (to attach to pictures)
- 5.0 out of 5
I researched digitals for at least 20 hours and visited all my local camera shops more than once asking lots of questions. I wanted a small camera that took great photos. I almost purchased the olympus stylus 1000. a few different factors went into the decision but one definate feature that influenced me was the optical view finder! DO NOT PURCHASE A DIGITAL CAMERA WITHOUT A VIEWFINDER if you plan on taking outside photos. my first weekend i was golfing and couldn't see the LCD screen from the sun even when i shaded it with my hand. i was able to frame the photo thanks to the viewfinder. The canon A710 takes excellent quality photos even blown up and don't be afraid of rechargeable batteries. that was my only real concern with this camera. with high quality batteries you can get 300+ photos off two double AA and the package came with four so i always have spares in the camera bag. my only complaint with the camera is with the owners manual. it tells you how to access the many features the camera is capable of but doesn't explain how or why the features are there. it would have been great if the owners manual had useful tips throughout the manual. thats ok because one trip to the library and i found dozens of books on digital photography. you simply can't go wrong with the Canon A710
- 4.0 out of 5
Tested under all conditions and with most of the
features: Macro<flash or non-flash shots are
excellent>. Camera is quick and easy to use.
Relatively low resolution lcd screen doesn't creat
a problem and is adequate.
Flash recycle time is rather slow due to two aa
batteries verses four. However, depending on the
distance of the shots, this is variable and at
close range recycles rather fast. Also, flash
exposure compensation has an effect on recycling
time.
All other speed measurements<shutter lag, rewrite
times, focusing, etc. are more than adequate and
make for a pleasant shooting experience.
Movie mode is very good! Background motor noise
exists but is muted and doesn't take away from the
joy of watching and listening to the videos.
I have a sandisk ultra2 card that is 1gb and
would recommend a high capacity and moderately high speed card such as thisCost me 35.00 with
the rebate.
Camera is compact and light weight<not puny and
fly weight>, which is good. Perfect realistic size and weight in my view.
Menu is diverse but intuitive and simple to use.
Access to all features are quick and non-irritating like so many other digicams are.
After owning Many digital cameras over the past six years, I am most pleased with this overall.
- 2.0 out of 5
I do not own this camera although it appeared to be a nice upgrade to the 700...and it is, for the most part. However, I do maybe 50% of my shots under a flash and this camera..unbelieveably takes 10 seconds to recharge for the next shot...NOT GOOD!! Was considering the purchase but after getting my hands on the camera in the store I have difinetly decided against the A710 IS. I dont have 10 seconds of my life to be waiting for a spanking new model to get ready for the next shot.
- 5.0 out of 5
I traded in my A95 two weeks ago for the A710Is. I was always really pleased with the reults from the A95 but the zoom was only 3X and it suffered from quite noticeable blue fringing at high contrast edges such as trees etc. This is not the case with the 710. There is a very small amount but is very well controlled. Sharpness is excellent, as is detail. Much better than the A95 and when I compare identical shots there really is no comparison. the 710 wins hands down. The IS is very good but at 6X zoom you need to keep shutter speed at least 1/250. Even at 1/125 it is difficult to avoid a small amount of edge blur. The screen is excellent but a swivel would have been so much better! Flash output indoors is good but you have to set ISO to 200 or auto in program mode. The camera is conveniently lighter than the 6 series because it only needs 2 batteries. However, so far, battery life using Hama 2000mh batteries was not as good as I had hoped. I have now invested in Hama 2600mh and so far so good. All in all, an excellent camera. I print on an Epson R300 and prints are excellent. Good contrast and good definition. I toyed with waiting for a G7 but the price was looking a bit high and apart from 3 megapixels extra, there are virtually no other differences. Startup times is very good. Just over a second and yoyu can shoot and shutter lag has been virtually eliminated. I must say, so far I am delighted I changed from the A95. I also have a Nikon F80 film camera which gives great results but the A710IS often outperforms it.
- 5.0 out of 5
Everything about it is excellent. I like the 2.5 embedded screen. Like it better than the old small swivel one I had three years ago. Also it can be seen a little better in the sun than the old ones. The large icons that come forward and than retreat in the upper edge is great for us older people with aging eyes. Controls are much like the older Powershot series with more functions. There is an actual red battery that shows up when battery is low. Can not miss it. and the zoom shows on the LCD screen and turns color when you go into digital. Also it has a smoother, more precise zoom which shows the optical number after it zooms to where you want it. The canon computer software is also updated and shows anything you want about the picture on the computer. Even the autofix is much better than before. Easier for beginners than before.
Lighter because batteries reduced to two and easier to quickly install. AE lock and Flash lock exposure easier to use. Buttons are easier to find and use than before. Maybe I am used to using a digital camera. Large zoom and even digital zoom are very clear with image stabilizer. The image stabilizer can be set to continuous and always is turned on. I heard that is not so with other cameras.
- 4.0 out of 5
I bought the A710 IS a week ago at Sydney airport and am already very enthusiastic about it. This is my 3rd camera I purchased this year, having owned an A610 (a colleague dropped it..) and a S2 IS (a friend bought it off me as he lives in a place with little choice of cameras). All Canons, as they have make excellent photos, have lots of manual control, use AA batteries and SD memory cards in stead of propriety cards like Sony (another brand I would not mind buying were it not for the cards).
Although of course I can't provide a durability report, I am very happy with the camera so far. I was looking for something compact (both the A610 and S2 use 4 AA batteries and are a bit bulky as a result) yet powerful. That means more than 4X zoom and around 7MP so I can blow up photos to A3 size without loosing too much quality. Although I will miss the S2's awesome 12X zoom, the A710 has a very nice 6X zoom going just that extra distance and beating most competitors in the process. It is stabilized too and to good effect: one of the first shots I took was of a ship at sea at full zoom, taken from a plane as it was heading to Amsterdam airport. It came out beautifully. You can use the zoom during shooting video as well, something the A610 can not but the S2 can. It is the same high quality video (640x480@30fps)though it is still limited to 1 GB. It records sound too of course. Photos are sharp and have pretty accurate colours, which I find important. A lot of brands oversaturate the colours making them look nicer than reality. Canon does not do that although you can change the settings if you do prefer it like that (vivid, neutral, B&W, Sepia, vivid blue, vivid green, vivid red and a few more).
A lovely 2.5" lcd screen (but not swivel!) and an optical viewfinder, which I much prefer above electronic ones. The menus are clear and a beginning photographer will be able to quickly use the camera and make great pictures with it. It does have heaps of manual controls as well: aperture priority, shutter speed priority and full manual. Those not keen on experimenting can use the large number of scene modes to handle just about every situation. It focuses really quickly and shot-to-shot speeds are good as well but the flash takes a few seconds to recharge, blacking out the screen in the process. You can take macro photos from 1cm distance, not bad indeed!
The camera is made of grey coloured metal and feels sturdy. It is not a super-compact but small enough to fit in many pockets. The controls are well placed and there are not too many of them. The batteries (2AA) and the memory card are behind the same solid feeling cover, but the ports are (still) behind a flimsy rubber one.
In short, the A710 IS is a powerful camera with 7MP sensor and a stabilized 6X optical zoom that delivers excellent photos but is compact enough to be taken with you anywhere at all times. I give it 4 1/2 stars, 5 if it had had a swivel screen. I doubt you will be disappointed by this one.
Canon PowerShot A710 IS Comments & Questions (write your own!)
If I had to pick, the A620 has the most megapixels out of the bunch (7.1MP), and will naturally catch more detail than the 5MP A610 and 6MP A700.
You may also want to consider the new Canon A710 IS. It's essentially the same as the A700, except it has 7MP and Image Stabilization to help improve the 6x optical zoom.
Canon is also set to release updates on the A610 and A620 very soon (the A630/A640), which will have 7MP and 10MP respectively. Keep watching DCHQ, we'll have info on them as soon as possible.
Canon A620: digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Canon A610
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Canon A700:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Canon A710 IS:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
It's $400, which is out of your stated price range, though.
Panasonic is well regarded when it comes to IS. Here are the Panasonic listings for cameras under $350:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
Most of the shots will be still need zoom.
* long zoom (10x or better, image stabilization recommended)
* tripod mount on the camera and a tripod
* manual settings for exposure and focus
* polarizing filter
Many cameras (and lenses) offer image stabilization, and this is a really great feature. But if you are taking photos of anything relatively stationary (flowers, sunsets, waterfalls, etc.) a tripod allows you to not worry about shutter speed, meaning you can get the best from your lens. Also, nothing is as steady as a good tripod; handheld shots are almost never as perfectly sharp as tripod shots. Tripods are a big pain in the neck, of course, so image stabilization is a good fallback for cases when you don't have the tripod.
A polarizing filter is the single filter that I think most outdoor photos need. By reducing glare, polarizers make most colors, including leaves and sky look rich and saturated.
Is you are serious about photography, I would recommend an SLR, or one of the top end SLR-like advanced cameras. Of course they cost a lot more than many of the very good middle-of the pack advanced cameras, and SLRs also tend to be larger.
At the top end consider the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or it's less expensive sibling (just released), the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
In the middle, consider the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the new Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
For less money, you can get an older Panasonic FZ5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Canon has just introduced the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which seems like it might fit the bill. You might also look at the Olympus SP-510 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which is also just released; it has a 10x zoom, but is also probably a bigger camera than the A710. There are several options for AA battery cameras, but these seemed like the best bets to me.
Looking for my "perfect" camera model:(1) minimum 5.0 MP or better
(2) optical image stabilization(3) decent zoom (would prefer 4x- 6x range)
(4) good photos, of course!? - subjects generally children and lots of indoors or motion shots
(5) Is there a brand better known for less red eye?
Secondary "wishes" would include decent start up and battery re-charge times. Would prefer a proprietary battery or only 2 AA rechargeables. And why are they all dropping the real-life viewfinder?!
The reviews on the newest panasonics still complain about "noise" - is that true? Have considered the Fuji F30 but really holding out for more zoom (its only 3.0) and I don't think the F30 has OIS - just faster shutter speeds. Have also looked at Canon S3 but size and weight is too much.
Maybe the Canon G7 or SD800 coming out? My budget is up to $500.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
This year's crop of cameras might just be the one that gives you what you need. Although I will say that the need to handle "children and lots of indoor or motion shots" sets a high bar indeed. I think sport photography and children photography tie for the most demanding photo challenges, with children being a touch harder :-) The issue is that they move a lot, and move unpredictably, so it's very hard to have your camera ready when they happen to be in the scene.
Frankly, I have tried several cameras, and only the dSLR with a seriously fast exposure and focus system are up the the challenge (and then, about 1 in five shots is any good). Otherwise, you need to set up a photo and snap at the perfect moment, or worse, get the kids to pose (and you know the fake smiles that come from that!). That these pictures are indoor means light is a challenge. So pretty much anything small will be a little less than perfect, I think.
All cameras need to focus and set exposure before they can take the picture. I bought a Canon G6 as a smaller camera than my Canon 10D dSLR, and it was supposed to be "great" at this. But compared to the 10D (and the Canon lenses), the G6 is terrible. That was a couple years ago, but by today's standards, the G6 is huge. I haven't seen the G7 yet - maybe it's better. And really all compact and point-and-shoot cameras suffer from taking a "long" time to focus and set exposure (even if that's only 1/2 second) and it gets worse in low light. So I think this is the real challenge.
I think you're right to go for image stabilization, and I think a good zoom, which will allow you to get away from the subject.
When you are further away, you have a little more maneuverability, so can track the subject (sounds like we're hunting deer, or something, no?) and lock in for the kill... er ... shot ... er photo at the right moment.
An important trick is that all cameras can do focus and exposure in a first phase (shutter button half-way down) and the picture as the other and much faster phase. Even with your current camera, getting the knack of this can make a huge difference.
Red-eye happens because the camera flash is very close to the lens: eyes of people (and especially animals) are shiny, and reflect the light of the flash back at you, so if the lens and flash are an inch apart, the eyes act like a mirror shining right back. Compact cameras and flash all cause red-eye. "Red eye reduction" features work by sending a burst of flash at the subject's eyes which (in theory) causes the pupil to contract making the mirror of the eye smaller. In practice, it makes taking the photo take even longer, and doesn't really work anyway. Pro photographers who have to use flash have flash units that are separated a long way from the lens (a foot or two, or more). One big advantage of the larger cameras is when they have a pop-up flash -- even a few extra inches can make a difference. Another technique is to hold your finger or something up away from the camera, which draws the subjects' eyes to look there, instead of right into the lens or flash. The best solution for red-eye is: no flash!
But zoom, again, can help on this score. If you are away from the subject (and your camera's flash is strong enough) the subject really has to be looking right at the lens to get red-eye. But compact cameras usually don't have very strong flashes -- cameras like the Canon S2 or S3 both have decently powerful flashes that smaller cameras may not. Since camera makers know this, you might assume that at a camera's maximum zoom range, the flash is going to be a little weak, but if you have a 10x zoom and are only using 5x, you should be in good shape. The best way to deal with red-eye, is to not have to use flash at all, although this may not be practical.
As to "noise", this is the presence of pixels that are the wrong color and lightness, e,g, a bright red pixel in a black background. When you have enough of these pixels, it can make an image look lousy. Image noise gets worse as ISO in increases, so one might think that cameras with higher maximum ISO settings are less likely to have noise at any one setting -- wouldn't you think a camera that can go to ISO 3200 would be better than one that can only go to 800? But the proof is in the pudding, and it's really only after the cameras are tested that you find out who has the real highest ISO. The Canon cameras tend to have low noise at high ISO. I would be sceptical of any ISO greater than 800 in all but the best camera -- noise may be better than no picture at all, but the noise in a lower-end camera claiming to go to ISO 3200 is probably going to produce a bad result. And the camera that will automatically set to a higher ISO (auto-ISO) as needed to deal with low light, are a good thing as long as that high ISO isn't higher than the camera can do well. I suspect this is what people are seeing in the Panasonics you mention.
So I would wait to see what people say about the G7 -- if it is comparable to the G6, it's still a reasonably big camera, about the same size as the S3 (but without the zoom and IS). This line is aimed more at people who wanted an SLR but couldn't afford one. Now the SLRs are cheaper, so hopefully the G7 is a completely new design that competes with some of the better non-SLR high-end cameras.
I would have to say on the inexpensive and small end that the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a good bet for you. It's small, but it will probably be slow. The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) comes from a long line of pretty good cameras so is probably a good bet -- the A700 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is getting good reviews and seems like it's probably the same camera just without the IS. The SD800 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) doesn't have the 6x zoom, so I would go with the A710. The Kodak V610 also looks like a good bet ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Thanks for other tips and info. Much appreciated. For some reason, there seems to be no happy medium on my coolpix. The photos are dark and blurry or the fill flash makes the faces all washed out of detail and bad bad redeye. My kids are blond, blue eyed and fair - so we get lots of red eyes here.
So.........I'm looking forward to giving a try to a new one!
You'll get a better deal online!
Thanks again. Happy shooting....
Because I will be backpacking through europe I figure compact is probably better so I am leaning away from SLR's (because they are a little too complex for me) and the S3 IS although it looks very attractive. I thought the new Canon A710is was the right camera for my situation, but now the G7 is almost here and I am in a quandry as to whether to spend the extra money on it as it covers the same bases as the A710, but I am wondering if the price difference is worth the benefits to me when taking into consideration my previous camera was a simple but bullet proof kodak 2 megapixel. Could someone please help me make sense of the differences like digic III vs digic II, 10mp vs 7.1mp (a friend told me that above 6 mp was overkill since that many megapixels do not benefit from the smaller size of the G7 or A710's lens).
Cheers
Regarding megapixels, your friend is right. Above 6MP, there's not a whole lot of difference in the quality of photos. The 710IS's 7.1 megapixel sensor will be more than enough for your purposes. Coming from a 2MP camera, you will be stunned by the depth and quality of the photos.
I'd go with the 710IS and keep the money you saved for a nice dinner in the UK.
You can find out more about the 710IS here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
With each of these subjects, the main challenge will be getting lighting that highlights the texture and shape of the sculpted forms. You don't need an especially good camera for this. You're right that flash isn't really an option. You'll want to light from the side, and with a light that comes from a point -- a bright flashlight might be worth a try. You probably want a little background light (ambient light), but mostly dark in the background so as not to distract from the subject. If you hold the flashlight parallel to the surface of the subject, you'll see when you have it aimed correctly -- the surface texture and (especially with eggs) the shape will stand out. It's a wonderful photographic project, and digital cameras are really great here, because you can see if you got the shot you want instantly, and adjust as needed until you do.
So what you do need in a camera is manual exposure control, and I would recommend getting a camera with a 5x or greater zoom, which will help blur the background. I would recommend a tabletop tripod (another option is a "beanbag") -- the camera will need to be very still, since in so little light you'll need a long exposure. Whereas a typical daylight shot might have the shutter open for 1/100th of a second or less, this kind of shot could need the shutter to be open for 1/4 to 1/2 second, or even longer. With manual controls, you should be able to set these kind of unusually long shutter speeds in order to get a good exposure. But this is also why you need your camera to be really, really still, and a tripod can help that. Another "nice to have" feature for a camera is a remote shutter release -- this way you don't have to touch the camera (and jiggle it) to take the picture -- but if your camera doesn't have this you can always just use the self-timer.
So, suggestions? One option would be the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is a mid-priced camera with some very nice features. Another really good option (maybe better, and a little less expensive, too) would be the Kodak Z650 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If these are both too much, try the Canon A530 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which doesn't have great zoom, but is a reasonably capable camera.
Thanks!
This is just an overall great camera with nice Image Stablization which is a hugely important feature that helps prevent against blur a big issue in low light digital photography. This is the camera I would get. Check it out.
Ciao!
The ones are the top right corner of this page are all reputable. ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
But I find the best buy would be the Panasonic Lumix LX2 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a great zoom, it is very compact, and it takes good video (in 16:9 aspect ratio none-the-less, which is wide screen!) for around $250.
Unfortunately none of these cameras are sand proof so buy a protective case.
Good Luck
The Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a similar camera but with out the IS system and a bit bulkier. I do not think it is the right camera for this job although the zoom is twice as long it is just isnt the point and shoot style you are looking for. I would save the money and go with the Canon.
If it is within your price range I would recommend the Canon Powershot A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Mainly because of its excellent Image Stablization feature which is grea for sideline action. This is a great overall camera as well and it is fairly compact for the amount of quality features it has.
If you did want to look at an ultracompact, the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has 10x in a really astoundingly small body.
You might also want to consider the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) a really light, stylish camera with 10x optical zoom.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
All of these are great cameras, but I think the one that will best suit your need for landscape photography is the Panasonic LX2 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The other cameras you mention match the LX2 in many respects, the 10MP sensor (A640), the image stabilization (A710 IS), and compact size (TZ1), but only the LX2 has a wide-angle lens (f2.8 28mm wide angle Leica DC lens) that will faithfully capture large panoramas with little problem.
The LX2 also provides 16:9 widescreen videos and images. It's a really remarkable camera. The price tag is up there, and if you're looking to save money, you might find the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) slightly more agreeable, but for the superior photographic experience on your trip, the LX2 is the way to go.
There are a few neat ultracompact / extended zoom cameras, like the Pansaonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which each have 10x zoom in fantastically tiny bodies.
The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also has a very nice 6x optical zoom in a small point-and-shoot style body.
It sort of depends on how much you want to spend and what other specifications you're looking for, but my vote goes to the Canon Powershot A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). That might be a good one to check out.
The Canon A710 IS ( "digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs about 7.3 ounces (210 grams) with the standard lens and no added features.
The weigt of the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is approximately 7.41 oz. or 210g (camera body only). You can find the all the camera's specifications at the Canon site ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Yes, they both have a 6x optical zoom. There are some important differences that will help you differentiate the two, however.
The Canon G7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a higher-end, more advanced camera. The 10MP sensor is nice if you want to make large digital prints or engage in significant post-production cropping, but not essential for most mainstream camera users. The Canon A710's ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) 7MP sensor would do just fine.
The G7 also has ISO sensitivity settings up to ISO 1600, giving it a significant advantage over the A710 is low-light or high-motion situations.
There is also a significant difference in price. My advice is, if you consider yourself an 'advanced' photographer who needs a robust digicam, then go with the Canon G7. If you are a more casual or mainstream user, the A710 is more than enough. Both are superlative cameras, it just depends on what type of user you are.
That's why I will buy one, despite the lack of a RAW mode.
-Bigger CCD, and better relation (surface CCD/Mpixels)->better image quality, less noise: The CCD (and image quality) of A640 is appreciably better than A710, and I think that G7 CCD is the same as A640.
-Hot shoe for external flash (determinant in inner pictures, I think it make the big difference).
-Better LCD
-Better lens (I find the A710 lens with too much, non acceptable, barrel effect)
If you're looking for Image Stabilization (which I think you probably should), that narrows it down to the SD700 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A710IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Both are fairly comparable cameras, the major difference being that the A710IS is a larger, point-and-shoot camera that has more of a grip to it, while the SD700 is a tiny ultracompact.
You may also want to consider the SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This recent update on the SD700 also has image stabilization and is ultracompact, but supports ISO sensitivities up to ISO 1600 (which is good for capturing fast-moving subjects without blur, like your grandkids. It's also roughly the same price as the somewhat older SD700.
<a href="DigitalCamera-HQ.com/digita...
im not sure about the A710IS but the sd550 and the sd700 lacks a plastic built-in cover that protects the LCDs (i wish i had known about this cuz my LCD on my sd700 cracked after a month that i had it)
the sd630 has the built in cover. also it has that gorgeous 3inch cover to boot. i think that the durabilty/lack of headaches makes it somewhat worth it, dont you? my friends have this camera and they love the picture quality despite the fact that it lacks Image Stabilization. well ppl in the past have dealt with not having IS in the past...also I.S. doesnt really help when it comes to taking manual pictures with high ISO anyway...
As far as # of recharges you can get out of AA rechargables, that depends on the different brands. I'd suggest check out their respective sites.
The Canon Powershot a710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is more of a user friendly camera and it is more highly reviewed by consumers. It is slightly more powerful in terms of megapixels as mentioned before but they are very similar cameras. If you want to powerful zoom is say go with the S3 it is the only really notable difference.
I take a lot of outdoor/ nature photography all over the world and usually use the viewfinder.
Can anyone suggest a good camera that meets my needs? I was thinking the Olympus stylus 750, but I am worried about the lack of viewfinder. Thanks!
The Olympus is also a great camera but if you are nervous about not having a viewfinder then I would say you should go with the Canon. The best thing to do is go to a local store that carries digital cameras and try holding and looking at both cameras, then buy online for the best value.
I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for a reply? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com"&... so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
I am assuming that you won't be too close to the bears. If my assumption is true, you will need something with a large optical zoom capability. The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has the larger amount at 6x. If you like the Canon line and do not want a dSLR camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), you might look at the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with 12x optical zoom. There are lots of other cameras out there with an extended zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) as well. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
You can find a waterproof case for the camera <a href="search.ebay.com/search/sear... The model number is WP-DC6.
Andrew
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*2827 OR WWW.P1000.CO.IL OR 1-700-10-80
BYE GILBERT
If you are willing to spend more money I would suggest the Canon a710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) it is easy to use and it is very powerful. The main benefit of this camera is the Image Stablization which helps keep your pictures free of blur. No camera really has large labeled buttons because smallest is best in the digital camera world it seems but this is the same camera my grandfather has and he doesn't have trouble with the buttons. Basically the important buttons are big so it isn't really a problem for people of any age.
I have the A710 since yesterday. I am a bit disappointed, not only the flash recovery time is slow (3-5s, using two 2500 mAh AA), but also the writing time, so there is at least always a time of 2 seconds before you can take the next picture - without flash! I used very small image sizes and very fast sd cards, the problem was stilll there.
Additionally the shutter has quite some delay after pushing the button - no matter if autofocus is on or off. I would estimate it is at least several 10ms or even 100 ms.
Noise is there starting ISO200, but acceptable. Lens is excellent, very low chromaticity. Menu is nice. Handling and view very nice. The first AV and USB cover I like.
It is a good camera but it is seems to me very slow. Either it is the particular camera I have (what I dont belive, because the problems have been mentioned here and there) or Canon travels back in time. For my part I expected better performance for the almost 300€.
Regards
T.S.
But I think for a safari I would go with an SLR, with a good telephoto. However, those are expensive, so if you don't want to spend that much, I would go with a Canon S3 or a Sony H5. Both have 12x zoom. I haven't been on a safari, but I hear that one doesn't get that close to the animals. So the longer the telephoto, the better. The Canon S3 is a nice compromise between the over thousand dollar digiSLR and the smaller point and shoots.
The Canon a710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great camera but if you want some real zoom power I would go for the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
A710 IS, I have found that it uses for power TWO (2) AA size bateries. In one rewiew it even shows a photo of the bottom of the camea with the two batteries in place. Some reviews indicate the flash is slow to recharge and maybe this is the reason. Hope you have a great Safari.
I noticed that you haven't marked a reply as "Best Answer. Are you still looking for responses? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question on digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
I noticed that you haven't marked a reply as "Best Answer. Are you still looking for responses? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question on digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
Wouldn't it be nice if a camera could take a picture of anything and come out crystal clear? =) While that isn't quite possible, if you have a problem with camera shake you'll want to look for a camera with image stabilization, which will help cut down on blur even when the camera and subject are moving. It isn't a magic tool, but image stabilization can definitely improve your pictures.
I recommend what's called Optical Image Stabilization over the alternative (Digital Image Stabilization), because Optical is more effective and doesn't cut into your image quality like Digital can do.
You didn't mention your price range, but if you're looking for a quick-reacting camera that is easy to use, has image stabilization and is portable, here are just a few to look at:
Canon Powershot A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (these are super user-friendly)
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (super cheap and super good quality)
You might also get some answers from our <a href="digitaladvisor.com/guides/f... Guide</a>, it is really good at helping you narrow down what features matter most to you. Feel free to come back and ask if you're still not pointed in the right direction. =)
With that said, if you do want to upgrade and you're having problems with blur, first narrow down what's causing the blur. You won't be able to take pictures while you're jogging no matter how good your camera is. =) But if the problem is coming from typical camera shake then definitely look into one of the ones mentioned above with image stabilization (preferably Optical).
Just to show you an example, <a href="dcresource.com/reviews/cano... review</a> for the Powershot A710 (mentioned above) shows the difference that image stabilization makes. Click on the link and scroll almost halfway down the page to the two side-by-side pictures of the vitamin bottle. One of them is taken with IS and the other without. Definitely helps with camera shake!
-Push the center button in the four-way controller (the one that says Func Set)
-This opens the Function menu, which is a series of little icons around the side and bottom of the screen. Go down to the L in the bottom left-hand corner and the resolution you're at should appear in little numbers just above the bottom menu. Use the left-right buttons to toggle, then push Func Set again to save your choice.
If you're using the memory card that came with the camera I'd highly recommend buying a bigger one... you can only store a few images on that 16mb card unless you make them really low resolution.
You may want to consider a DSLR for REALLY fast times- the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) performs operations in fractions of a second. Understandably the price jumps up too.
Also consider a camera with burst (or continuous) mode. This is a feature that allows you to push the button once and take multiple pictures in succession. For example the 20D mentioned above takes about .2 seconds between shots in burst mode. This is twice as fast as its typical time... burst mode is convenient when shooting something like animals in motion.
I think this year's crop of cameras is just a little better than last year's, and those better than before in the whole "speed" issue. So going with a new camera that's similar to your Dad's might be all you need. Any of these cameras under $400 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are a good bet, but consider the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the very well rated Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They are two different cameras: you'll probably get better speed with the Sony, but it's also a somewhat bigger camera. Also look for faster (higher number) ISO and image stabilization, both of which can help deal with low-light situations.
But there's one thing to consider that has made all the difference with my older point-and-shoot camera: I used to hate it because it was so slow. But there's a trick: the half-shutter-press. Hold the shutter button down half-way until the camera locks on focus and exposure, then follow the subject (with button still half-down) until you get the shot you want, then finish the shot. It's the focus and exposure part that takes all the time, even in the best cameras.
Finally, the really inexpensive cameras are still slow. And don't go for extra megapixels if you don't need them -- I cannot understand why the manufacturers are putting 10MP sensors in regular point-and-shoot cameras -- how many 20x30 prints do you make? :-)
a k pahadia
into your computer or laptop which is pretty damn cool since i usually have
my laptop with me and i can see much more detail on a 15" screen than a
low res 2.5" screen. You can see a screen shot of this in the review at "dcresource.com" they give a pretty good rundown of all the pros + cons.
1. The sensor size in the A710 is 54% smaller than the A630/A640 (24.77 sq mm vs 38.19 sq mm) The theory is that a larger sensor has larger individual photosites (i.e pixels) and therefore will produce higher image quality.
2. The difference between 7MP and 10MP is not 30% increase in resolution. It is only 13% better. For instance, in order to double resolution you will need to have 4 times the pixels (i.e. 2 x 2 MP sensor= 4MP total. In order to double you would need 4 x 4 MP for 16MP total)
The bottom line is that 7 MP or 8 MP will more than meet the needs of any amateur photographer.
3. Consider the speed of flash recycle and battery life using 4 rather than 2 AA's. This is of much more value than the extra MP.
Conclusion: If you can live without Image stabilization - go for the A630!
Andrew
BEST PRICE !!!
Much more effective than digital stabilization, which can degrade the quality of the shot quite easily.
Between these two I would choose the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), especially for your purposes. These are its advantages over the E900 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ):
-Better battery life (great for outdoors), about 360 shots on a standard charge vs. E900's 270
-AF assist lamp (helps immensely in low-light focusing) (E900 doesn't have one)
-Better low light shots
-Faster operation in general (shutter lag, photo cycle time, etc.)
-Image stabilization. This is huge, esp. with a zoom camera and esp. if you're going to be shooting outdoors/ on hikes/ under unusual conditions. The E900 has no stabilization and if you want to zoom you may find yourself looking for a tree to brace against while the Canon could handle the situation a lot better. Particularly if camera shake is a problem for you, spring for the Canon here.
The E900 does have a few advantages- a neat natural light setting, a lighter body- but honestly that's about it. And I've heard reviews about poor lens quality and poor low light shots.
The Canon just did not do it for me, the color tone, clarity etc was really lacking. The reviews are glowing, but real world experience with it was lackluster and the images were boring (not because of my skill level).
I know that I should not expect a lot out of digi-cam, but alas I do. The A700 IS image stabilization is probably helpful, but not essential if you don't use a long zoom.
Any camera that can increase the ISO with very little noise as a consequence performs the same task as IS. Image stabilization is more critical on cameras that cannot control noise well when the ISO increases. Just look at the Panasonic's and the lecia (on their small cameras).
Small sensors, high ISO's and large mega pixels equal a nosier image. To control noise a smoothing method must be used. Image stabilization can help to reduce the need for an additional algorithm.
The E900 has a neutral light setting that is spectacular for low light balanced photos. The Canon has very poor flash that you will have to increase the power on. The Canon eats batteries. I got about 100 shots on a set of batteries. Yes the Canon has lots of zoom, so what, this is not a wildlife expedition camera and in everyday use it has limited value. The E900 is 32 mm wide lens, at least its a slightly better wide angle that to me is much more useful.
The E900 I am still testing out, I know in low light it is wonderful. The noise is well controlled. With the E900 in the early testing anyway, it seems to be a little crisper and you can adjust the sharpness within the camera. The lens by fuji is excellent for this type of camera. Barrel distortion and pin cushioning are normal for these types of lens (meaning small lenses).
Please also understand each camera will have its sweet spot for aperture and zoom range, so with reviews they tend to take wide angle and telephoto measurements. So there is a skewing how the lens behaves. How much of this matters to you I don't know.
I am like you in many ways, I am searching for a high quality light weight camera that gives me a sharp photo. I am happy with center weighted metering and fixed focus lens, but I can't find this. At least the E900 allows RAW mode, the canons do not. A fixed focus lens always will give you the best possible results zooms are by nature are always softer. The RAW allows you to keep the full image without compression. Compression into JPEG cause a decrease in image quality. Using compression is akin to throwing out your negative and keeping your paper photo. Again is this important to you?
Regarding the Auto-focus lamp in low lighting OK its a little bit of toss up. Yes it works, Yes its distracting when you see it come on. I have no trouble focusing with E900 yet even in a room with regular incandescent lighting at night. The natural light setting on E900 eliminates the need for the AF lamp. AF lamp is important on the Canon because it has to be for the camera to work correctly.
What else are you doing with this camera that something more extreme is needed. Taking pictures at a concert? Unless your close to the show with a fast lens (E900 is a faster lens) then you won't get the shot anyway unless people are standing still. These small digital cameras have limitations, they are not made to do everything. The Canon is more like a jack of trades but master of none. I don't yet know all the limitations of the Fuji, but I am going to guess that it too is really on good on certian occasions. Knowing the limitations is important so you can avoid disappointment. That being said, try to find a camera that satisfy most of your needs and shooting situations.
Every camera has its strengths and weakness depending on the situation. don't judge your camera based on what you may encounter and odd situations. If you are taking photos indoors, a wide angle is important and only a few diagrams have this feature. If low light is an issue a camera with good noise reduction is important (E900, F20 or F30) are far and away your best choice. Flash photography on digicams at best leaves much to be desired.
I hope this helps, it was a little cathartic for me anyway :-). I am frustrated with digital cameras and manufactures because unlike film cameras, they try to pack so much in, that the camera lacks the most important feature of taking really beautiful photographs. The most wonderful photos you will encounter seem to be always taken with the simplist of equipment.
I have to agree with you. I am also looking at E900 as one of the contenders as my new camera. I have had FinePix 3800 and its colours were brilliant and it beats many camera even now when it comes to nice colours but now I want a smaller camera with MAX manual controls.
I have come down to A710IS and E900 but can't choose one. It will be really nice if you could post your E900 opinions.
I don't really care if it uses xD or SD as long pictures are nicer. All I care about is picture quality, rest everything is second for me.
thank you!
RAW format is an uncompressed digital still, meaning it is the highest possible quality and it is a very large (data wise) format. It is usually only found on higher end / pro cameras.
Enter the Canon PowerShot A710. This camera is absolutely stunning. Big, high resolution screen. Manual viewfinder. Big optical zoom with a readout on the screen showing you where the optical zoom ends and the digital (pixelated) zoom begins (solid gold!). An amazing selection of programmable settings: adjustable flash intensity for no more blown-out white faces, adjustable f-stops, etc. Movies at up to 60 fps(!). Very fast start-up time. Will accept optical accessories. No proprietary memory cards or batteries.
Of course, the camera has a small list of cons: Plastic body instead of metal. No raised lip around the LCD screen to protect against setting it down and scratching the screen. Plastic mount for tripods (with plastic threads - what we're they thinking?) Speaker for listening to movie sound on top of camera making difficult to hear it. No case included.
Not a big list of cons, I'll admit. And I added the last one just make it look like I wasn't trying to gloss it over.
I think it is expensive, but everything else in its price category is either complete junk or more poorly executed.
Yeah, if I had more money I would buy the G7. But that's the only difference between the two - money.
I also worry about battery life from 2xAA in the 710, even if you use rechargables.
I will have to disagree with Joe about the advantage of the 10 MP. First, the G7 has the new Digic processor, so we're hoping the images will reflect an improvement. Second, you don't need to print huge posters to see an advantage in more MP -- with 10 MP you'll have more freedom to crop.
The downside of ever more MP on a tiny sensor is the signal to noise ratio. With luck, the new Digic chip makes that a non-issue.
RAW is a "digital negative", a lossless format which saves all the original information. You need a special program to convert the images to jpegs, but I've found the tweaking you can do in RAW to produce better jpegs than any of my cameras produced on their own, even after PS tweaking. The loss of RAW in the G7 is a major bummer ...
Under similar options, I went for G7 and quite happy about it.
Most pros have already been mentioned:
- better built quality (metal instead of plastic; Japan instead of China);
- hot shoe for external flash;
- better/faster controls;
- 10 MP allow more options for crop;
- greater options for further growth;
I DO like the G7---it looks like a Porsche design. But it is larger that the A710, I think the G7 is about the size of the Canon A630-640 cameras.
But frankly, for $550, I'd get the Nikon D40 and be done with it.
G7 allows to be carried around in a pocket all the time, and, therefore, it allows to follow the main rule for making great photos: having the camera, when you unexpectedly need it...
It also makes a good second camera, in case if later on one decides to go for a serious dSLR...
Anyway, you are not talking from your own experience and seem to be just estimating possible options, whereas those who have actually made their choice in favor of G7 don't seem to be regretable at all :-)))
And about having a camera when you need it: I have gotten into the habit of taking a digital camera with me when I leave the house. It seems a bit silly at times, but I'm hoping the day will come when that will pay off in a great photo or two.
I have an old Kodak 6440 - 3 or 4 megapixel and 4x optical zoom. It is slow and I miss good shots. Thanks.
Just for the record I'm getting about over 300 shots (full memory card) at highest settings, with and without flash before needing to recharge the NIMH AA batteries. In fact the same batteries last longer in the 710 than they did in the A200 previously.
It seems however that canon wanted to make it possible to change almost every possible settings in this camera, so they even added the possibility to change the flash strength, and this would have been very good if the flash just didn't suffer this major spreading problem. Having said that, it is possible to make very good indoor pictures with or without the flash, if you use the manual settings and compensates for this fault i.e. by zooming in to the illuminated area, put down the flash strenght, and compensate for the low light by using, ISO, Aperture, Shutter speed, OIS settings.
It's very easy to change settings on the A710 and this is really positive. There are a lot of build in programs, and some of them are set quickly by turning the mode-selector wheel. I can really recoomend using some of these modes espacially aperture-priority. Some times it is better that you and not the camera's Auto-setting decides if there is enough light or not, and by adjusting aperture and ISO, the Camera will decide which fastest shutterspeed could be used with these settings.
About the batteries:
The supplied Business Alkalines did pretty well, but my used 1600 mAH AA NiMH batteries did very very poor, so I bought som new 2500mAH NiMH batteries, and they perform better - however not as good as Canon promise.
About the movie-Zoom.
It does not have optical movie zoom, but the digital movie zoom seems to be quite usefull, as long as you dont go all the way.
My conclusion:
If you want a point and shoot camera, stay away from Canon A710, as it's not good in Auto mode. But if you want to buy a low price camera, with all possible manual adjustments, and excellent features and specifications, this might be the one for you as you can "learn" how to act as an professional photographer on this camera. So for you low budget pro-wannabe's - go get it.
pros:
- All manual adjustments possible: Aperture, Shutterspeed, ISO, Manual Focus, White Balance, Flash Strength, metering (semi manual)
- Some very useful program-modes (but not the full auto program)
- 6 x zoom
- Optical Stabilizer (very useful)
- Good image quality
- Possible to take useful indoor pictures without flash
- pretty good movie mode
- Easy to use interface, even on manual settings
Cons:
- Poor flash light spreading (worst in 35 mm mode)
- Poor flash light recycle time (because of the batteries)
- The Full Auto program not reallly good
- Battery life not impressing
- only 10 secs Audio note taker (to attach to pictures)
Thanks in advance.
If, however, you have more hobby-istic needs, then perhaps you need to point your eue towards the digital SLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) market.
There, depending on your experience, comes a great array of options, including Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Add a great 28-200 telephoto lens and a Flash, and you can take great pictures of everything from wide angle landscapes, to portraits, to on the go action and sports shots. And the best thing about the SLR option is, it can grow with you. As you get better and better in your photography journey, this camera will open up more options to you.
We have a great breakdown of different cameras depending on budget on the left hand side of this webpage. And each category has solidly great options from both point and shoot and SLR options.
Two things. If going digital, IGNORE DIGITAL ZOOM rates. That's pure marketing. While Optical zoom works like a 35mm camera. Digital zoom merely magnifys or "blows up" the image. And the farther you get into the digital zoom spectrum, the more the image will degrade.
Secondly, if you choose to go SLR, spend some extra money and get 1A Skylight filters for all the lenses you invest in. It will be the cheapest, and most reliable insurance you'll ever buy as they will guard against impact damage.
Both cameras have great qualities. I've listed the main differences below (note that the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is listed before the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )):
- Megapixels: 7.1 VS 5.0
- Optical Zoom: 6x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom VS 10x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
- Exposure: Auto and Manual VS Auto only
- ISO Setting: 80-800 VS 80-1600
- Memory Storage: Secure Digital storage (16MB SD card included) VS SD/MMC card storage (13.4MB internal)
The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has more resolution while the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has more optical zoom and a wider ISO range, which is better for lower light settings.
Andrew
Andrew
You should have no problem using the IS function with the additional lenses. As for the adapter, you can find them at various sites to include Amazon.com ( amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_p/00... ).
Andrew
Here are some stats that might help you decide:
Canon A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )= 10 megapixels (PLENTY for posting pics on Ebay as well as printing good photos if you want to). Nice super easy to use camera with good results and user friendly controls. Really effective although it doesn't have the greatest low-light effects.
Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- a step up in the Canon line, this one has a better zoom and features image stabilization, which is good if you take lots of zooms or if you have problems with camera shake. However, the 640 offers 4x zoom, which should be plenty for the average user... this one has 6x zoom which might be 'a little too much camera' for your needs.
Powershot SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also has image stabilization. May also be a good choice for you, but it does have a wide angle lens which not everyone appreciates, so that's something to consider.
Finepix F30 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is another solid contender... 6.3 megapixels is again more than enough for printing basic-sized photos and posting online, and this camera has some very good light sensitivity and performs well in various settings.
For your purposes I'd lean towards the SD800 or the F30.
Both the A710 and the P4 offer image stabilization; the A620 does not.
Image-wise, I have heard that the A620 doesn't do as well in low light but takes excellently-colored photos in natural daylight (also has good skin tones). The A710 and the P4 have all-around good color and handle most lighting situations well.
Hope that helps somewhat.
The Nikon Cool Pix P4 does not have the wi-fi packet radio transceiver. It is the P3 that has this wi-fi along with the exact same body as the P4. What stopped me from buying the P4 is the lack of dedicated manual controls and the Fantasea water proof housing does not allow access to all the controls. The P4 styling is a bit nicer than the Canon A640. Both are good cameras, but I will have to work harder to figure ways around the auto functions to get what I want in manual controls. One can control aperture and EV exposure compensation.
i m actually looking for a suggestin from u, i want to buy either from canon a-630 or nikon p3, which one of the 2 u suggest is a better option to buy and hw do u rate both cameras, one thing i realize is tht p3 is an old model and is out of market so we can get it at comparitively cheaper rates, aru nd 220$ and also has wi-fi capability, so which one shud i go for?
What price range are you looking for?
The idea "very good zoom" means different things to different people. For example the Canon Powershot S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) came to mind as I was reading your question (that might be a good one to check out), but 12x zoom may be rather heavy-duty for your needs. It also makes the camera bulkier. It does have good battery life and a good movie mode, though. Is that the kind of camera you are thinking of or did you have something different in mind?
Thanks for pointing out things that I should have inculded in the question...
Ideally, the price range I`m looking for is below $300. But if I find a camera that is worth it, I`d be willing to pay more.
As for the "very good zoom," I have been through the entire DC-hq website and could not find a zoom other than 4, 6 or 12x. I was wondering if someone else would know more about it, or if someone could point out that there are no other zooms.
I was considering the Canon S3 IS for a while, yet I find it looks more like a professional camera (i.e. too bulky). I am currently looking into the A710 IS, since Canon PowerShot A-series are the kind of cameras I am interested in.
The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) may be a good choice for you, but the one caveat is that it can only hold 1GB of movie which is about 8 minutes' worth depending on what resolution you're at.
The SD800 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has 4GB of movie storage and is another one you should consider- it does have a wide angle lens, but some people really like that. It also has fewer manual controls, so if you like to adjust aperture, focus etc. you may want to look elsewhere. The A710 allows you to manually set everything but focus, I believe.
amazon.com/Panasonic-DMC-TZ...
dpreview.com/reviews/panaso...
I noticed you haven't marked a response as Best Answer... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
I hope the new one works out for you (the A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is on my list of best cameras, I loove the A series Powershots) and if you're OK with it not being an ultra compact and not having IS then it should be great for you. Let us know if anything else comes up.
I would like an all round camera, that we can use for all ocassions, however underwater photo's need a camera with good macro, a zoom and pretty high pixels. I am considering the Canon A710 IS, as it appears to meet these needs, and I know I can get underwater casing as an optional extra for it.
Are you able to advise what the underwater mode is like on this camera, along with other recommendations you have.
However, I do think the A710 IS is good at dealing with low-light conditions because of it's integrated stabilizer, and so I am considering it for my next underwater camera, too.
You might try the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or if you want to save on money, the Canon A530 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will give you greater resolution at 7.1 megapixels vs 5, as well as image stabilization which will help in low light situations.
Andrew
Therefore, if you like the "pocketable" point and shoots, well, the low-light capability will be similar on those cameras. The bigger the camera, the bigger (and hence better) lens it will have.
Is the g7 truly a better camera?
The G7 does have a heftier metal body which you would probably like better. At least, parts of it are metal- I'm not promising that the whole thing is, but it is sturdier than the A710.
The G7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is simply a more advanced camera. Not that it's better, it's just designed to do more stuff basically. As evidenced by the price tag.
If you don't like the feel/ operation/ body etc. of the A710, you might appreciate the G7.
It feels and looks great, has a good build quality and takes excellent pictures (including amazing macros).
The non-flip screen and the lack of AA batteries put me off when comparing specs online,but holding and shooting with the A640 vs the G7 made the decision very easy.
If you don't mind the additional cost and you still have the option of returning the A710, I'd definitely go for the G7. You know where the extra money went as soon as you start using the G7.
Perhaps I'm gushing. But there was none of the 'expensive new product anxiety' when I received the camera. Often with pricey purchases, I wonder if I've been taken for a sucker. Not this time.
As it turned out, I went ahead and bought the G7 instead...
I love it more and more as long as I stay away from some of the online reviews of it: some favourable, some not.
My Review?
This thing is so-ooo cool. The "brick-like" contruction, retro styling and features galore make for one awesome toy!
Who cares if its picture quality isn't as good as some reviewers have said it should be: in actual, fact it's a lot less expensive than the cameras it usually goes up against.
Say Cheese!
There are good qualities in both cameras. You have to take price and capability into consideration when purchasing. I've outlined the main differences below (the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A710 IS</a> is listed first).
-Megapixels: 7.1 vs 8.0
-Optical Zoom: 6x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom VS 4x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
-Image Stabilization: yes VS no
The other settings in the cameras are not much difference. You're going to get better resolution from the 8.0 megapixel <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A630</a>, but better zoom capabilities with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A710 IS</a>. Ask what is more important to you, and you might also want to go to a retailer to see how each camera feels in your hand.
Andrew
There are good qualities in both cameras. You have to take price and capability into consideration when purchasing. I've outlined the main differences below (the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is listed first).
-Megapixels: 7.1 vs 8.0
-Optical Zoom: 6x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom VS 4x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
-Image Stabilization: yes VS no
The other settings in the cameras are not much difference. You're going to get better resolution from the 8.0 megapixel Canon A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), but better zoom capabilities with the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Ask what is more important to you, and you might also want to go to a retailer to see how each camera feels in your hand.
Andrew
Also, the 630 has 8 megapixels, with 4x optical, while the 710 has 7 megapixels, with 6x optical. Hence, the "useful zoom" factor on the 630 is 32 (8 x 4) while the useful zoom on the 710 is 42 (7 * 6). So the 710 is slightly more powerful, zoom-wise.
But the biggest difference by far is the IS, the image stabilization on the 710. THe 630 does not have that.
The 710 costs a little more, but I feel it is worth it. A closer call is between the A640 and the A710.
Youliana
P.S. I'm not the Kelly from the previous post, even though she had valid points!
Indoor lighting is much warmer (i.e. yellow-toned) than daylight. Therefore, if you take a photo with indoor lighting, w/o flash, on AUTO (undoubtedly with ANY digital camera, and with a film camera, for that matter) the camera THINKS it is outdoors, and the tungsten lighting turns yellow.
So one has to set their camera for INDOORS mode. On the A710, just dial SCN (for scene) then pick the INDOORS setting. It's as easy as that.
ps flash guns use the "daylight" color, so that is why indoor photos with a flash work OK.
You might try a Canon A710 IS ( httpdigitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has the image stabilization you're looking for, an ISO range of 80-800, a macro mode for 0.39" focusing distance (even with flash at 12 inches), manual settings, and you can even get a wide angle converter for it if you wanted (wide converter WC-DC58N). This all comes in a point and shoot camera weighing 7.1 ounces (without the battery or memory card which only add a few more ounces). The shipping weight is only two pounds, so there ya' go. For $302 its a steal. Unfortunately it does not take photos in RAW format. Other than that, it sounds like a good fit.
Andrew
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer" yet... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question on digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
How old is your daughter? Maybe something designed more for the child market would be better.
You may have a defective camera. I'd recommend contacting Canon ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) for warranty service.
Andrew
The [urldigitalcamera-hq.com/digita... a710[/url] has both an optical viewfinder and a LCD for framing up your shoot plus this is a great camera with a traditional feel to it which seems to be what you are looking for. It takes great quality stills. Top of the line for this price range too.
An SLR may not be the best choice for you, and yes the Canon 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is no longer made. You can get great quality and ease of use from a point and shoot camera. If you are photoing pens and watches to sell online, you might try a Canon IS (image stabilization) camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) like the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). At 7.1 megapixels and a wide range of ISO settings, it would be a great camera for you, and it retails for less than $300 online.
Andrew
If high speed would make a difference, any recommendations? Don't want to take the advice of another poster and purchase different kinds and compare because I don't have time - baby is due any day now:)
Thanks!
Canon also said the camera would benefit from a card which writes at 10MG/sec or more, and the minimum spec for the camera is 6-8 MG/sec. They said the higher speed would increase speed of transferring files to 'puter and positively affect shooting in continuous shooting mode.
Say, is there a way to send photos with these posts?
ps Do I get another 20 points for this great answer?? :-)
For a once in a lifetime opportunity, why wouldn't you want to go with a good solid SLR like the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Rebel Xti?</a>
10.1 MP (which is huge for those stunning landscapes or monument pictures or even that safari in Africa), Self-Cleaning Vibrational/ultrasonic dust reduction, and the best part - the ability to change lenses. Better range, better glass. Better images. For a once in a lifetime trip around the world, that's what I'd be looking at.
If, however, you're looking for mobility and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ease of use</a>, then the A710 can do the job.
and it looks like SDHC "means" greater than 2GB. Am I misunderstanding something here? It appears that SDHC is defined as greater than 2GB according to that site. If so, the Canon A710 IS cannot use SDHC. If I'm misunderstanding and there are SDHC cards smaller than 2GB, I suppose the camera could use them...
But let's consider for a moment ... is it really a bad thing that a digital camera doesn't take a card larger than 2GB? I don't think so. In fact, I think you're better off using several smaller cards than one HUGE card.
What if that card fails while you're shooting pics? Relying on one card can derail you as your shooting and preserving the moment. Having several smaller cards that you can switch out enables you to keep going and deal with the issue later on.
I say you should stick with several smaller SD cards and hedge your bets. Bigger isn't always better.
Thanks so much!
If you look at A6x0 siblings then A640 handles noise much better than A630. This is important to note as in low light, if you leave your camera on auto ISO mode then it will shoot at higher ISO, something like fast film and then A640 will take a better picture than A630.
As far as my knowledge goes, apart from pixels issue, this is the major place where all of these vary.
Otherwise all of them perform equally good under rest of the conditions.
I would personally go after A640 if I have money or I will settle down with A630. For some reason, I didn't like A710 IS design so I will give up image stabilization taking into account WFA (Wife acceptability factor)
I agree it is low in resolution as compared to A630 but again, are you really going to make prints larger than 8x12 inches? or just want to fall prey of camera manufacturer's megapixel gimmick?
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
For price, features, modes, user controls, range, macro, accessories, quality, etc, - look no further.
As for megapixels, my friend who is a pro photographer for over 26 years (used to shoot for National Geographic) said, and this is a quote, "Unless you are shooting for a magazine and the picture is going to be on a 30 foot by 50 foot billboard, there is no reason to get more than 8 MP's". Of course he has a 10 MP 20D, but that's how he eats!
So, as far as I am concerned, this is the last camera I will ever own. I also got a 5 year warranty from Repair Tech for about $45. So, at least until the year 2012, I will have a kick-ass camera. (In fact, a few of my pictures have already been approved for sale on a stock photo site).
The IS feature would be nice, and it is in earlier models. I don't know why Canon decided to eliminate it in the A630. Probably because the mechanism would have added weight to an already hefty camera.
That said, IS is just about the only thing I wish it had. It does have a warning light, which I though meant that the image WAS going to be shaky, but I have read that it is a warning based on the settings (focal distance, focus setting, f value, light, etc.) that are calculated by the processor and it is just telling you that you may want to use a tripod.
I have read a review from another user who said that he TRIED to make the image bad by shaking the camera when shooting and he could not get it to take a bad shot. However, this is also effected by the factors I listed above. I have taken out-of-focus shots in high-wind areas or when the focus was set at manual and I was moving. But they are minimal. I have even shot perfectly focussed pictures our of a moving car THROUGH THE GLASS. Be-yoo-tiful.
If you are at the level to play with the settings, use TV (or P or M) mode and manually speed up the shutter time until the warning light goes away. Or you may need to adjust the aperture to let in more light so the focuser will have more light to work with. However, even with the warning light on, the pix look flawless on my 19" wide, so it's not a big concern.
I ask this because in my view, the ability to take stills in a video camera just isn't as good as we want it to be. And I have found that more often than not, I use the video feature in my still camera much more often than the other way around.
However, the Elura 100 does store pictures on a memory card and you can take stills while you are videoing a scene. So that is a handy feature. And it does give you widescreen options. But I am skeptical that it can take stills with the same quality as a digital still camera. Your mileage may vary though.
Particularly, for Camcorders, I'd go with either the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... or, better yet, the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... 100</a>. I just love the ability to shoot widescreen.
As for digital cameras that shoot video? Well, my favs are <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A640</a> or the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... for point and shoots and the Digital Rebel Xti ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for SLRs.
As I said, there are other really good cameras. Still cameras you can go with just about any model recommended here and not be led astray.
Does a great job in the still department, and the video, which I believe is up to 30 minutes, isn't as good as a camcorder. but it is good enough for daily fun.
One review thought the A630 might have flash problems by only lighting the center of the picture.
You can't go wrong with either of these cameras.
TAKE PITUCRES
SHOWS DISPLAY BUT YOU CANT SEE ANY THING EALSE. YES NEW BATTERS WAS PUT IN.
i know nothing about it??
web.canon.jp/Imaging/PSA70/...
google.com/search?hl=en&...
Check out some of the results of that search, which talk about EXIF data. The first link (<a href="dcresource.com/reviews/cano... review</a>) actually shows some EXIF data for each sample image so you can get an idea of what is stored.
But, <a href="digicamhelp.com/learn/gloss... also seems that this isn't unusual</a>. It seems that "<a href="exif.org/">most digital cameras now use EXIF format</a>." So you're not limited to the A710, although it's quite possible that earlier Canons don't have this feature.
Since posting the question, I did a little google research of my own, and found a Perl program called "exiftool" that will read exif files and dump the metadata they contain, including vendor-specific metadata coded in vendor-specific formats, for vendors whose products are well-known and fairly stable. With this tool I was able to confirm that even images created by my A430 (a much more basic camera than the A540 or the A710) contained quite a bit of detailed information about the camera settings used when the image was taken. Apparently the big difference between the A710 and the more basic cameras is NOT that it records the data, but that it can display it in the preview / playback mode. The data is there in the images from the simpler cameras, but you have to transfer the image to the computer and use an exif-reading program to get at it. (Note that this contradicts what the camera salesman told me.)
Thanks again for taking the time to reply.
Very interesting.
That said, there are many good cameras out there - it shouldn't be too hard to find one that meets your needs.
Good luck-
DParker
Both cameras are excellent and come with 7.1 megapixels. The Olympus ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a greater optical zoom at 10x vs 6x as well as a wider ISO setting range (better for low light settings). The Canon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does come with movie mode and sound recording though. Given the features and the price, I would pick the Olympus ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) as well.
Andrew
The down side is, its got digital image stabilizer, optical stabilizers are much better. But at a price of the olympus I guess its the best you can get.
Canon no doubt is good, but if you're a starter and have plans to take a pro like shot in 1yr down the line, you need more than the Canon 710. Ofcourse you can upgrade later to a real SLR...but the deal for now is the Olympus 510UZ.
There are a couple of cameras that might suit your needs: the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon Coolpix L5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I have used both a Nikon Coolpix and a Canon Powershot in the past. Their user interfaces are easy and can do various different functions. Personally I prefer the Canon UI, but that is just my preference. As for the protection and deletion questions, both cameras have the ability to protect the pictures you have taken as well as delete one by one on the unit themselves.
To further prevent bluriness, you might look at purchasing an inexpensive mono-pod. I picked one up at a Wal-Mart for under $20. They are lightweight and easy to carry, and add that extra stability to taking photos.
I'd recommend going into a retailer to see how the cameras feel in your hands before you purchase. A place like Circuit City or Best Buy would be good to get a feel for the cameras. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
There are three things I'm interested in having in one small camera:
1. The ability to zoom while recording in movie mode
2. Image Stabilization. I currently have a Canon PowerShot A95 and the pics in low light or night settings come out blury, even w/the evening setting. Very disappointing when on a trip of a lifetime. Would a camera w/Image stabilization produce non-blury images or do I need to adjust the setting from night time to something else?
3. Self Timer.
If anyone has any recommendations that would be great! Also, with regard to the blury pics, any suggestions on camera settings would be welcomed too!
You didn't mention a price range, but you can look at the Canon Powershot A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This camera's Shutter Priority setting allows you to control camera shake, too, by limiting the shutter speed to handheld speeds so that the camera doesn't slow down the shutter TOO much (even in darkness) and result in blurry photos. It makes more difference than you might think.
However, the zoom in movie mode on this camera is just digital zoom, not optical (meaning you can digitally blow up the image but cannot zoom using the lens while filming). Most digital cameras you'll find work this way- they disable the optical zoom because of the fact that the lens moving often causes a noise that is picked up on the movie clip. If you really want optical zoom in movie mode, the only one I can think of at the moment that does it is the Easyshare One ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I'm sure there are others though.
but Use Always Original MMc duo cards from sony only.
another - point is camera is too sensitive.
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
since nobody has replied your query, let me reply coz i'm also on a buying spree for a digicam like you.. I guess the reason may be you have put INR & u shd hv indicated $ price.. Anyway, general openion is Canon powershot series is the best in market as per as Digicams are considered. You can chk for the features like Optical Image Stabilizer, Viewfinnder (may not b required.. but having make sense), Assist lamp, 6-7 Megapixel is OK for even 10"x8" or sometime A3 size print, Optical zoom (if you want ultra compact, you will get only 2/3/4 optical zoom with 4 Digital zoom), but sometimes you wud like to hv 4x or more .. Now if you go on increasing zoom capacity, it will addup to the camera size & weight, chk for the power requirements, Manual or automatic controls, etc.. with all above, i've shortlisted canon A710IS, S3 IS, A640 & SD 800IS... I feel i will go for A710 which has got all of these..6X optical zoom, Image stabilisation, 7 MP, 2 Batteries, viewfinder with 2.5" LCD... you may like to carry ur camera everyday especially whn u r in foreign country & feel like to tk a snap almost anytime and of anything.. so size, quality, capability all equally matters... If you have a bigger capability camera, it won't be tiny & u may not feel like carrying it daily..(e.g. S3 IS) or you get a ultra compact camera with good photo quality but not enough zoom or view finder (e.g. SD 800IS), so i guess..A710IS seems a good mixture of all these... You hv approaced really a good site.. you can get more expert reviews on dcreviews.com.. Hope this helps
But if you decide to stay with a digital still camera I would highly recommend the Canon a710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) It is easy to use, quick and takes excellent pictures. But like I said if you are even considering a camcorder I would have to push you in that direction. You can get a lot for your money in that department these days.
Andrew
Andrew
For longer movies you can either lower the resolution or the frame rate. Two other resolution choices are available: 320 x 240 and 160 x 120. For the 640 x 480 and 320 x 240 sizes you can choose from 30 or 15 frames/second, while the 160 x 120 size is fixed at 15 fps (with a 3 minute recording limit as well).
There's also a "Fast Frame Rate" mode available, which lets you record up to 1 minute of 320 x 240 video at a whopping 60 frames/second. This is great for videos of fast moving subjects.
As you'd expect, the image stabilizer is active while you're recording. While you can't use the optical zoom during filming, you can use the digital zoom. All of the My Colors features (including Color Swap and Color Accent) can be used in movie mode.
Movies are saved in AVI format, using the M-JPEG codec. An edit feature in playback mode lets you trim off unwanted parts of your movies.
Hands down I would say the S3 has the best performance. But I bought the A710. Why??? Two great reasons: (1) The A710 is a little less money, but (2) the S3 is much larger. I got used to the A-series, I also have an A-520. I like the small form factor, the A710 can fit in a pocket. The S3 is really too large for most pockets. Check them out for size at a local retailer.
The S3 has great specs, only 6 meg instead of 7.1 meg on the A710. BUT the 12x optical zoom, gee, that gives a useful factor of 72 (6x12 zoom) versus 43 (7.1*6 zoom). The S3 has the moveable screen, a more powerful flash (4 batteries!) and STEREO sound as well as movies and zoom in movies.
The cameras on paper are similar.
The A710is is 7mp 6x, 28 - 210, AA Batteries, tripod mounting, larger body, 640x480 30fps $300 range
SD800 7mp 3.8x, 28-105, camera spec battery, smaller size, 5 movie 640x480 30fps and 320x240 60fps, $350 range.
I like longer zooms and AA battaries. The larger body is OK with me.
I bought my wife the SD550. Very similar to the SD800. She loves the smaller size. Could care less about the longer zoom.
You decide which is most important to you.
I would recommend a dSLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) camera over this one. With only 6x optical zoom, you will be disappointed in the performance. With the versatility of different lenses on an SLR camera, you will do better in the arena with lower light settings and the lack of a flash with your longer range shots. Make sure you get a lens that goes down to at least f/2.8 to capture as much light as possible. I know this is pricy (I use an SLR myself), but you will be a lot happier with the quality of your photos that way.
Andrew
If you go that route, you will also need to get the SDHC adapter which will enable you to hook it up to your PC via USB as memory card readers probably won't pick up the SDHC format.
But allow me to make a point here about size. There are times when size doesn't matter as much. Sometimes, it's more advantageous to have several smaller memory cards than one large one. What if that card fails? If it's your only one, you're stuck. Having more than one, say 512mb or 1GB card, will enable you to swap out the faulty card without skipping a beat or missing any more shots. Then, later you can use a disc recover utility to try and salvage the pictures you've lost when the card failed.
Brand, IMHO, does matter. The rule of thumb is that the cheaper the product, the less known the company, the more prone the card is to failure. I'm a Sandisk fan.
Andrew
6 megapixels
12x zoom
Manual or auto focus, manual or auto exposure
2 inch LCD
Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ):
7.1 megapixels
6x zoom
Auto focus, manual or auto exposure
2.5 inch LCD
The S3 has slightly faster operation, a larger body, and uses 4 batteries instead of 2 (which does result in slightly longer battery life).
Both are good cameras. If you like the zoom, go for the S3; if you like lightweight with a little more flexibility in options, the A710 might be a better choice.
Cheers
Andrew
I noticed you haven't marked a Best Answer... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
Remember, and this is important!: Image stabilization will NOT help remove blurriness from a moving target, it only helps remove blurriness caused by the user! Keep this in mind when you try taking a low-light picture without a flash and think the image stabilization will make the picture clear. The only option of a moving target is to increase the ISO, which will increase noise and so decrease picture quality.
I haven't used my new SD800IS for aquarium shots. I was planning on going to the zoo, and my sister at least has a small aquarium I could try taking pictures of.
I hope that helps, but I can tell you this camera takes pretty amazing shots. Check out the rest of the images at the website I posted, to give you a good idea :)
the capacity to take really stable up close shots
good wide angle stitching capacity
Capacity to take action shots and low light shots most important
movie with audio capacity
Good size LCD screen
View finder that is close to lens so I dont have to adjust constantly
EXCELLENT battery life, or at least takes ordinary AA batteries or batteries that are easy to purchase worldwide if I run out unexpectedly
storage disks that are very common and easy to purchase worldwide for same reason
The pixels are not that important, as I rarely blow up pics and when I do, only large wall size, never poster size. So I'm thinking 5 pixels is fine.
I travel a lot so I like a portable camera that takes good shots and doesnt require a lot of fuss but also allows me to purchase on the spot extras like batteries and memory if necess.
What is the best camera for me? Price range and quality camera ok asked by A Jackson PhD - 0 pts
October 22, 2006 10:45 PM
30 points for the best answer
Watch this Question
For a 5MP model, the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A530</a> is a good choice. Mrs. Claus has one of those and she is always taking pictures with it. Me, I prefer the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a> because of it's image stabilization, quite a handy feature when you're in the sleigh and run into some turbulence on Christmas Eve. The 6x optical zoom is great for closeups of the reindeer in flight. And 7.1 MP is plenty for those great posters to motivate Santas helpers in the workshop!
Both models are portable, yet fit well in your hand. And they use the SD memory card feature which is standard and easy to find.
Merry Christmas, and remember, I see you when you're sleeping and I know when you're awake!
SC
the capacity to take really stable up close shots
good wide angle stitching capacity
Capacity to take action shots and low light shots most important
movie with audio capacity
Good size LCD screen
View finder that is close to lens so I dont have to adjust constantly
EXCELLENT battery life, or at least takes ordinary AA batteries or batteries that are easy to purchase worldwide if I run out unexpectedly
storage disks that are very common and easy to purchase worldwide for same reason
The pixels are not that important, as I rarely blow up pics and when I do, only large wall size, never poster size. So I'm thinking 5 pixels is fine.
I travel a lot so I like a portable camera that takes good shots and doesnt require a lot of fuss but also allows me to purchase on the spot extras like batteries and memory if necess.
What is the best camera for me? Price range and quality camera ok asked by A Jackson PhD - 0 pts
October 22, 2006 10:45 PM
30 points for the best answer
Watch this Question
For a 5MP model, the Powershot A530 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a good choice. Mrs. Claus has one of those and she is always taking pictures with it. Me, I prefer the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because of it's image stabilization, quite a handy feature when you're in the sleigh and run into some turbulence on Christmas Eve. The 6x optical zoom is great for closeups of the reindeer in flight. And 7.1 MP is plenty for those great posters to motivate Santas helpers in the workshop!
Both models are portable, yet fit well in your hand. And they use the SD memory card feature which is standard and easy to find.
Merry Christmas, and remember, I see you when you're sleeping and I know when you're awake!
SC
Any why are online camera stores in New York so much cheaper than any stores ?
The A710IS has 7.1 mp w/6x optical zoom and Image Stabilization
Movie mode, with sound
Secure Digital storage.
This is a major increase in mp and optical zoom. Sides, Canon lens are some of the best in the industry.
<b>The A710 has</b> really good quality pictures even on ISO 200, it has an optical image stabilization and a big LCD display (2.5'', although the resolution is not that great). It also has an Auto Focus assist lamp so it won't hunt at low light conditions, an excellent movie mode and continuous shooting mode (though its VGA video mode limit is 1 GB). However, it comes with only a 16 MB card, and no rechargeable batteries.
<b>S3 IS</b>... Well, this is one of the most popular cameras of this class and most of the people prefer it, but, my personal opinion, is that they are wrong. Compared to those two above, considering, the speed, the shutter lag, the quality and, of course the ratio between quality and price I would pick the G7.
Anyway, these are the pros and cons about the S3 (taken from www.dpreview.com)
Conclusion - Pros
* Good resolution
* Good color, good exposure, generally accurate focus
* 12x zoom offers excellent 36-432mm range
* Image stabilization works well (and can be used in movie mode)
* Packed with features
* Very quiet
* Solid construction and good handling
* Fast and responsive
* Stunning movie mode with high quality stereo sound
* Impressive continuous (burst) shooting
* 'Punchy' results straight out of the camera
* Clean images at lower ISO settings
* Impressively little distortion for such a large lens
* Enjoyable and easy to use
* Swing out tilt 'n' swivel screen
* Optional wide and tele adapters
* PC controlled shooting (via USB)
* Customizable shortcut button, ISO button
* Superb battery life with NiMH cells
* Optional flash and lens add-ons
* Good macro
Conclusion - Cons
* Occasional focus hunting at the telephoto end of the zoom in low light
* ISO 800 mode is too noisy to be really useful
* ISO 200 noise reduction too strong
* No rechargeable batteries supplied in the box
* Occasional highlight clipping due to over exposure of contrasty scenes
* Viewfinder and screen can be difficult to see in very bright conditions
* Images slightly soft
* Chromatic aberration and purple fringing
* No RAW mode
* Limit to highest shutter speed usable at wide apertures
I hope, I helped :)
Also, what about cycle and re-cycle times between exposures?
All of the camera's EV compensation is 2 to +2 EV in 1/3 EV steps (if I got you right)
If you mean the ISO they all vary:
<b>G7:</b> Auto, 80 ,100, 200, 400, 800, 1600
<b>A710:</b> Auto, 80 ,100, 200, 400, 800
<b>S3:</b> Auto, 80 ,100, 200, 400, 800
I was not clear about cycle/recycle: I mean, how long does it take from start up to make the first exposure, and how long between exposures (in normal and in burst modes). If I shoot a picture (in high-res mode), how much delay before I can shoot again?
The A710IS is better at higher ISOs, it also has a higher pixel count (7mp vs 5mp) but less zoom, though at 6X it's still more than the average point and shoot model. It does have aperture priority and shutter priority settings for more control.
It really comes down to your preferences. If you love the idea of really zooming in, then the pocketable 10X TZ1 might be a blast to own. If you are a pixel peeper and can't stand seeing noise in your images, then you might find the A710IS more to your liking.
Thanks.
If you're concerned with the size of the camera, the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) measures only 3.8 x 2.6 x 1.6 inches (excluding protrusions). It should fit easily into a day pack, or even the pocket of a ski jacket. The Nikon L5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) measures 3.6 x 2.4 x 1.8 inches, so there is barely any difference in size. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
[url=]digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ( ]digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
The A710IS was my first choice, as it has excellent features at a good price. Sadly, it has been crippled, being under-powered with just 2-AA cells which causes a long flash recycle time and worse, disables the LCD during the recycle period, during which you can't prepare for the next shot. I measured a distant flash recycle time of 8 seconds while the AC adapter was plugged in; it could be longer using a partially discharged battery. If I have to carry spare batteries anyway, I would prefer them to be in the camera, so that the camera has the power when it needs it. Another small thing, the plastic tripod mount is strangely located at the worst end for balance, so the camera will fall over if mounted on a pocket tripod.
The G7 is more expensive, but has more of the latest features, including the new DIGIC III processor offering ISO 1600, plus a useful ISO 3200 in a special scenes mode at a reduced 1.92 megapixel resolution, presumably by combining each 4 pixels into one to increase the light sensitivity. Unfortunately, this model has been even more crippled by a still smaller lithium battery. It has a flash recycle time spec. of up to 12 seconds. Worse yet, others have reported a shutter lag of more than 1/2 second while using the flash. This is AFTER pre-focusing by the first 1/2 press of the shutter button. It seems to be inherent to the DIGIC III process.
If you can live with these limitations, either one would be great. However, I find them unacceptable. You might also consider the less expensive 8MP A630. This has some excellent features, including 4-AA cells and a central tripod mount. However, it has just a 4x zoom, and lacks IS, DIGIC III, and ISO 1600+. Check it out!
Me? I may just wait until Canon can get it right, perhaps in next year's models.
Metal body; there are even cameras available built into titanium body. Few Canon or Leica models for example.
Additional plastic or metal housing. It would cost additional $200 or so but will protect against dust and water too.
Many stores can sell you an extra warranty for replacement. Double check the conditions for the warranty- in many cases they replace your camera for free even if you drop it in water.
In a situation like this, macro focus is the most important factor. Currently, Canon is the class leader in macro capability, with several cameras that allow you to focus on objects that are actually touching the lens. Of course, in many situations this isn't exactly helpful as the lens blocks out light, but with the proper lighting the capability is astonishing. Models that make use of this feature include the Powershot S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Several other Canons allow macro focusing as close as 1cm, including the Powershot G7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), A700 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All of these are fantastic cameras and will serve you well.
If Canons aren't your thing, nearly every major manufacturer offers models with decent macro modes--there are dozens that can do the job you need them to. If you have other things to take into consideration when making your choice (price, megapixels, zoom, etc), you can let me know and I'll try to narrow your choices further. However, all of the models I've listed above are excellent. Good luck!
The flower is about 1.5 inches across and I was in danger of actually brushing against the bee and scaring him away! Look at the pollen on his back, legs and head. Also, you can see good detail in the stamens of the flower and the pollen they carry too.
i80.photobucket.com/albums/...
In this one the top of the strawberry is overexposed (it was on a white background in sunlight) and is out of focus. That's because I was about 1.5 cm from the subject - the larva. You can see how very focussed he is - you can actually see that he has two clear membranes (one smooth and one undulating) and he has freckles on his back! Did you know that strawberries had hairs!?!
i80.photobucket.com/albums/...
You can also get add on lenses or filters to increase your magnification. I got all my stuff so far from 47th St. Photo. Just be aware that the extension of the lens causes a shadow with flash (even without any accessories) - as Ben mentioned. Since you have that really powerful and flexible lamp to your avail, this should be no problem. Turn off the flash and go in using full telephoto and macro on auto setting (unless you prefer to set your own focus, aperture, etc to suit the situation).
This camera is really very easy to use and give very high quality pictures for under $200 (pcrush.com).
Good luck
Honestly, 10 years might be a bit of a stretch for any digital camera aside from a SLR, but let's see what we can do. If you're looking for longevity, build quality is very important. Flexibility is also important, as even if you don't have aspirations to become a serious or semi-serious photographer, well, a lot can change in 10 years.
The cameras you've selected are all very solid, both in build and features. Canon's A and SD lines both use a lot of plastic in their build, however, so you'll still need to be very careful not to drop the camera. Size also seems to be a concern for you, so let's address that first. Canon's SD series are what are known as ultra-compacts. The A series, on the other hand, are compacts. The difference between these two classes is usually only a few ounces, but at this size a few ounces can double the weight of the camera. For example, the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... weighs in at 6oz, while the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... tips the scales at 11.1oz. Now, 11oz isn't going to break anyone's back, but the A630 isn't going to be easy to slide into your pocket, either. It's more of a backpack/briefcase/purse kind of camera, whereas the SD600 can easily fit into the pocket of all but the tightest jeans.
Picture quality is going to be roughly comparable on all of these models, though the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a> does offer the added benefit of image stabilization. If your hand shakes while you're taking a picture, the camera will attempt to compensate in order to give you a clean, blur-free image. This is particularly useful in low light, where the camera's shutter speed will be longer.
The A series does have one major advantage over the SDs, and that's the ability to customize the cameras' manual settings. All A series cameras offer a full manual mode, an AE Program mode and several types of "scene" modes (action, twilight, etc) in addition to the fully automatic point-and-shoot mode. These extra modes allow you to manually set shutter speed, aperture, and so on.
If I had to choose between the cameras for a 10 year marriage, I would personally choose the A710 IS. Its size isn't that big of a hassle compared to the SD600, its feature set is impressive, and its built-in image stabilization will save a lot of shots that would otherwise come out irretrievably blurred. The other cameras are all good choices, though. You can't really go wrong.
If you do decide to go the way of the SD line, I recommend checking out some of the newer SD models, like the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a>, which also features the same image stabilization technology built into a really impressively tiny camera. Good luck!
If you're still interested in the A630 I will also wave you over to the A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which is the slightly updated version and a fantastic all-around camera. The A710 IS still wins with image stabilization, though.
If you're not looking to save every penny and want a good quality high capacity card, I'd go for the Sandisk 2GB Ultra II. It can be had for $60 after a $20 rebate from zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductD...
Check out www.techbargains.com (left hand side, middle) for more price searches)
If you take a lot of pictures, you'll probably want to look for a card with a fast transfer rate. I'm not sure the impact fast cards have on the speed the camera captures the pictures; but, faster cards have a dramatic impact on how fast you can transfer the pictures to a computer. If you only take a handful of pictures at a time, the extra speed probably doesn't matter much.
That being said, depending on your budget, we might be splitting hairs. There might only be a $10 difference between a fast card and a slow card. Might as well go for the fast one.
Most manufactures list cards in terms of "X" time faster. 45x, 66x, 133x. SanDisk uses roman numerals: I, II, III. If you look at the descriptions of the cards, you can usually find the transfer rate in terms of bytes per second.
* 4x: 600 KB/s
* 16x: 2.4 MB/s
* 40x: 6.0 MB/s
* 66x: 10MB/s
* 133x: 20MB/s (some devices do not take advantage of this extra speed)
(source: gadgetspage.com/cameras/und...
Hope this helps.
I do want a fast card; we take lots of pics inside (read flash) and it's always slow with only 2 AA batteries. Outside is fine.
So if I get another 1 GB card, I want the largest numberX possible? Right?
I'll check out the url's you included too.
With rebates the prices are excellent. I always buy AT LEAST 1 GB cards which are always available for good price with rebate. All brands have worked well for me.
There are lots of different kinds of cameras that fit into your price range. I can help you narrow them down, but first I need you to answer a few questions.
1. How will you be using the camera? Are you mainly a point-and-shoot photographer, or do you enjoy messing with manual settings and taking photos for their own sake?
2. Does size matter to you? Do you need a camera that can fit easily into your pocket or are you okay with carrying it in a bag?
3. Are there any features you really want? High megapixels? Long zoom? Image stabilization? Any of these will help me narrow it down.
Thanks!
This camera is a great choice. You might try using the DCHQ Digital Camera Gift Guide ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You can pick cameras based on lifestyle, skill level, and price range. The cameras in your price range ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are also a good place to start. You should really ask what you want to use the camera for before you buy one as well. Will this be for parties and social functions, do you want to take landscape shots, or something completely different? These are all things to take into consideration. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
As Andrew said, the LZ3 is a great choice. If you want to spend a little more, the Canon A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are also very good cameras, as is the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which features a stabilized 6x zoom.
The A640 is at the higher end of your price range, but it's got almost a perfect 5-star rating here on DCHQ and I always feel comfortable recommending Canon's A-Series. They're simple to use but extremely powerful, and feature tons of manual options for someone who wants to get a little more serious about their art.
None of these are small enough to fit completely comfortably in your pocket, but they're a bit smaller than the size of your (my) open palm and would definitely fit into a jacket pocket or a purse without much trouble.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
For price, features, modes, user controls, range, macro, accessories, quality, etc, - look no further.
As for megapixels, my friend who is a pro photographer for over 26 years (used to shoot for National Geographic) said, and this is a quote, "Unless you are shooting for a magazine and the picture is going to be on a 30 foot by 50 foot billboard, there is no reason to get more than 8 MP's". Of course he has a 10 MP 20D, but that's how he eats!
So, as far as I am concerned, this is the last camera I will ever own. I also got a 5 year warranty from Repair Tech for about $45. So, at least until the year 2012, I will have a kick-ass camera. (In fact, a few of my pictures have already been approved for sale on a stock photo site).
To answer your question, yes, the processor changed between the two cameras. The A60 used the original DIGIC processor, while the A540 uses the DIGIC II, its successor. Many other things have changed between the two, however, and it would be a mistake to blame a difference in image quality solely on the processor. The lens, CCD, and pretty much the rest of the internals are all entirely different. I don't think you could get anyone to say that the DIGIC II processor is inferior to its ancestor, but you could certainly get a few people to accuse Canon of what's known as "pixel-stuffing"--essentially attempting to cram more pixels onto a sensor chip that's roughly the same size. This practice often results in noisy, overly processed-looking shots. The A540's sensor chip is 1/2.5", as compared to the A60's 1/2.7", so the A540 is fitting 4 million more pixels into those few extra millimeters. There have certainly been some great advances in CCD technology since the A60 was produced, but Canon is definitely cutting corners a bit here.
thank you! that explains a lot. now to the problem of finding one that i DO like...
do you have any favorites?
thanks so much!
It seems like a lot of other users share your opinion of the picture quality with the A540. If you're looking for cameras that are generally in the same size range as the A60 and A540, the A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are rated quite a bit higher. The A710 IS also has some nice features, including a 6x stabilized zoom. Canons are the cameras I'm most familiar with and the ones I'm most comfortable recommending, so there you go. Good luck!
i will check those out. i don't mind bulky. its harder to misplace that way! :)
you have been a great help!
I don't plan onmaking large pictures, just want a camera to take grandkid shots and vacation shots, maybe witha little extra zoom and such. I have an old HP612 now. Any suggestions? I was leaning toward Canon A620, mostly based on consumer reports.
Thanks
Debby
The main differences between the A and SD series boil down to two points:
1. Size. The A series cameras are somewhat bigger and heavier than the SD series. The SD models can generally fit easily into a shirt or pants pocket, while you'd have some considerable difficulty getting an A-series camera into your jeans pocket.
2. Features. The A series cameras offer a much broader range of manual controls over things like ISO, shutter speed, white balance, and other technical settings than do the SD cameras. They often have longer zooms, as well.
At this point, based on what you're looking for, I'd recommend staying away from the A620 (since it's pretty old and will be harder to find at reputable dealers) and I'd suggest the A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) instead. They're rated extremely well by the pros and regular users alike. The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also a good candidate, as it's equipped with an image-stabilized lens that will help rescue photos that would otherwise be blurry due to your hands moving as the shot is taken.
If you value the smaller size of the SD line and can live without the extra features the A series is equipped with, I'd recommend the new SD900 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is a fantastic (and fantastically small) camera. There's also the SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which features the same image stabilization technology that's in the A710 IS.
The A640 is a very good camera in a number of respects. According to some pro reviews ( dcresource.com/reviews/cano... ), it takes roughly 1.2 seconds to go from being off to being ready to shoot. It then takes about 0.2 to 0.4 seconds to focus, depending on lighting conditions. Shutter lag, according to this review, isn't a problem. User reviews here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and at Amazon.com seem to confirm this opinion. In short, this is one of the best compact digital cameras you can get for the money, and I'm sure you'll be pleased with it.
However, you should realize that no digital camera with the exception of a digital SLR is capable of the absolutely instant snapshot feeling that you're used to from film cameras. I don't know how many digital cameras you've used, but you probably know what I'm talking about.
I'd recommend taking your kid to Best Buy or some other large electronics store and trying to take some pictures of him/her with the A640 they have on display. Doing so should give you a reasonable idea of how the camera would perform in your house. Of course, a place like Best Buy isn't going to have the best lighting conditions for the camera, so bear that in mind if there's a little blur or image noise. This camera (like nearly all digitals) will perform best outside, with good light.
One last suggestion is to consider the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has an optical image stabilization feature that will help with some of this indoor/low-light blur. It's pretty comparable to the 640 otherwise, and very well rated by users. Good luck!
The cameras are really near-identical aside from those two differences. There are, however, a couple other small changes. The A710 IS is lighter (7.4oz to the A700 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )'s 8.8oz), offers an additional aspect ratio choice (3:2), and a couple extra manual settings (more white balance options, etc).
Really, though, the main advantage of the A710 IS is the image stabilization. It will rescue many, many shots that would otherwise be irretrievably blurred by hand movement either at long zoom or in low light.
The price in difference isn't really that big. The A710 IS is going for around $323 at Amazon these days, while the A700 isn't even there anymore--looks like it's being phased out. Despite the $219 price you see when you search for the A700 here on DCHQ, if you actually go to the price comparison page, the only price available is $309 from a single store.
Personally, I think the A710 is worth the little bit extra, but you might also want to consider the A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) if you're looking to shave a few dollars. No image stabilization, but the image quality is reputed to be greater than either of the A7xx models, and they're both cheaper.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Chris
Glad to help. The A710 is a great camera, and if you're leaning that way already I have no problem giving it a full recommendation.
I should mention that the S3 IS is not a full SLR, though. It's certainly SLR-like, but it lacks several key features that would define it as a SLR: removable lenses and a true retractable mirror lens system being the biggies. The S3 is in a class of cameras that are the closest consumer digitals come to the SLR range, and since they're still consumer cameras, they have wonderful automatic modes for average joe users. In other words, don't be intimidated. :)
Hope this helps.
DOES IT PAY TO GET THE G7 RATHER THEN THE A710?
Some cameras still do have the shutter delay after you push the button. The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has received some mixed reviews on shutter lag. A lot of the lag depends on the light settings you're in as well as what you're focusing on. If you press the button half way down on cameras, it will lock the settings it currently has, and take a faster photo when you push all the way. Good luck, and happy shooting.
Andrew
Unfortunately, you can't do that with this camera. It is limited up to 16 minutes or 1GB in 640 x 480 at 30/15 frames per second or up to 45 minutes or 1GB in 320 x 240 at 30/15 fps when set on the slower frame rates (which is a spectacular length of time). It does have advances in digital camera movie mode with digital zoom (optical zoom not possible), continuous autoexposure and white balance during recording.
Andrew
Are you sure about this? The way I see it, is each clip ie file is a maximum of one Gb, but that doesn't stop one combining a series of clips.
Geoff
If you have stitch software on your computer, then I'm sure you could do that.
Andrew
These are both great cameras with image stabilization and good performance... but there are some differences, and I think the SD800 would be better for you.
<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a> has a higher ISO available (handy for low light!) and it also has a neat face detection feature- it picks out the faces in photos and ensures that they're properly lighted (or at least helps try to make them properly lighted). It works really well from what I've seen, and could definitely help if you were photographing people in low light.
Image-wise, these cameras have the same sensor and same megapixels. The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a> has a longer zoom (6x vs. 3.8 in the SD800). Also, one big difference: The A710 offers full manual control while manual control on the SD800 is very limited. Then again, I have heard it said that the low light performance of the A710 on Auto is not that great sometimes- the camera can take wonderful low light photos, but sometimes it requires the user to manually tweak the settings to make it perform to its full potential, which eliminates the point and shoot convenience you could get with something else.
So, I think the SD800 wins. Hope that helps!
Thank you very much for being so helpful. You know A LOT about cameras! You have definately helped me make an informed decision. Thanks again.
Good luck and come back if you have further questions.
I am considering the CanonA710 IS, but that may be "too much camera" for me.
There's a decent start for a list here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) but as it says it's by no means comprehensive. The list essentially picks the best offerings from each class of image stabilized cameras for you. For instance, there are several Canon and Sony cameras that compete quite well with the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) that appears on the list.
The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is unlikely to be too much camera for anyone, unless they're looking for an ultra-slimline camera. Tech-wise, it offers a very easy-to-use automatic mode that even the newest of newbies could handle. And, on top of that, it allows you to customize just about every setting if you should so choose, so there's room to grow.
Good luck!
The quickest way to see if a camera has image stabilization? If there's one you're considering, go to google.com and type in the camera name with the words "image stabilization." What you pull up (reviews, user opinions, etc.) will quickly tell you in a glance whether that particular camera has that feature or not.
For example, a search for ultra-compacts with image stabilization and rechargeable batteries maxed out at 10 results. When I specified a street price of less than $200, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX3 popped up as the only candidate.
I've found that the site's listings of camera specs are very accurate, and their reviews are very thorough.
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"- are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
There are a few things you can do to get the best shots possible at the graduation:
-Get as close as you can to the area your son will be standing in the photos (less zoom needed that way)
-Avoid using digital zoom as much as possible. It will cause your photos to be less clear
-Set your ISO settings to 800, this will give you the best sensitivity to the low lighting
-Use shutter priority mode and set your shutter speed to no slower than 1/150th, or maybe 1/100 of a second. 1/250th would be optimal, but you might need a slower shutter speed to optimize for the lighting. Try both and see which gives less blur if any. This will allow your camera to set the aperature needed for the lower lighting.
-Set your white balance for auto or fluorescent. This will help you capture truer colors in your photos.
-Exposure metering should be set at center or center-weighted (if you put your subject in the center of the shot). This will allow for the best light exosure setting for photos of your son, or what you are taking the photo of.
I hope this helps.
Andrew
On the auto setting your camera will probably do a good job of picking the right aperture, ISO and shutter speed. However, if you find yourself unhappy with the quality of shots you're getting you can switch the camera to the manual mode (M on the mode dial) and do the following:
1. Increase the ISO setting. This setting will be in the FUNC menu. The higher the ISO the more light-sensitive the camera is. This will also increase the film "noise", though, so use it as sparingly as possible.
2. Decrease the f-stop. You can do this by pressing down on the four-way control when the camera is in manual mode. The lower the f-stop, the wider the aperture of the lens. Be aware, though, that as you increase your zoom the lower f-stop settings become unavailable.
3. Decrease the shutter speed. You can do this by pressing left on the four-way control when the camera is in manual mode. The slower the shutter speed, the more light gets in and the better exposed the shot will be. If you half-press the shutter release in manual mode you'll see an indicator in the top left of the display that will read anywhere from -2 to +/-0 to +2. This is your exposure indicator. If it's in the + range it means your image will be overexposed, so you should increase the shutter speed. If it's in the - range it means your image will be underexposed and you should lower the shutter speed. Be aware that the lower your shutter speed is, the more susceptible your images will be to blurriness due to your hands moving/the subject moving. The image stabilization system will help with this to some degree.
All of these factors feed into one another, so you can play with them to figure out which combination works best for you. If you feel that your hands are steady enough, for example, you can lower the ISO setting and slow down the shutter speed--doing so will reduce image noise but might result in blurriness if you can't hold the camera steady. (I'd actually recommend bringing a tripod or monopod if you can, or finding a surface to set the camera on, but I know this might not be possible.)
Hope this helps a bit. Good luck, and tell us how it goes!
If you aren't within 15 feet of your subject, the flash won't do you any good.
Andrew
Flash will allow you to use faster shutter speeds, but at great distance it probably won't actually light up your subject. This could result in the foreground (the 15ft or so in front of you) being extremely bright while the background (your son on stage) is pretty dark. You can of course try a few shots with flash and see how they come out... if it's no good, try the steps above. :)
Don't worry about the points. I don't see a problem with leaving it on at all times, if you have the option to. I have a Canon S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the IS is always on. It should only help your shots.
Andrew
If it doesn't detect it (or if you don't have Windows XP), then even if you do need to install the new camera's drivers it will not interfere with your G6 stuff.
I've heard of some image quality issues with the Samsung in that the photos can be very contrasty and 'punchy' in color... there is no way to adjust this inside the camera, you'd have to do it with photo editing software afterwards.
On the other hand, the Samsung doesn't have the problem that the A710 IS is lately getting slammed for- a very slow shot to shot time with the flash on. The A710 can take a very long time between shots at full flash, but the Samsung takes about 1.5 seconds, which is fairly fast.
In terms of the sensor, the one on the Samsung is bigger but that makes perfect sense considering it's got more megapixels. To me, the photos this camera produces just don't look as good as I would expect from 10 megapixels. So unless you use full flash a lot and the occasional slowness of the A710 is really going to drive you nuts, I'd lean towards the Canon.
<a href="dpreview.com/reviews/samsun... is a great review of the Samsung (since we don't have this camera profiled on our site). On the last page it offers some sample images that should help you a lot. My other advice is to go to a camera store if possible and actually try these cameras out in person to see which one feels better in terms of operation, speed etc.
I would check out some sample images of the LX2 at higher ISOs, compared to any other camera you're considering. About halfway down <a href="dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... page</a> is an example of the Noise Reduction in action. Do note that it does print much better than it looks on the computer, and some people like the way this looks, so it's not necessarily bad- but definitely something you should examine.
If you prefer the Canon name the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be an option, but can take some time for the flash to recharge. Another option is the Canon SD600 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which has received good reviews ( steves-digicams.com/2006_re... ) for faster performance. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
If I did not mention Canon, what would be your first choice?
Thanks,
Jodi
Andrew
The biggest advantages that the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has over the Kodak are its image stabilization, which is very good indeed, and the quality of the Canon brand name. The Kodak has no image stabilization, which could hurt you at the long end of its 5x zoom. However, the Kodak packs more resolution (8MP vs 7MP) and features a bigger, more robust imaging sensor (1/1.8" to the Canon's 1/2.5"). Users seem to really love the C875. Most seem very satisfied with the Canon as well, but some complain about high image noise on indoor shots and an annoyingly long flash recharge time.
I'm usually a big Canon supporter--I think they're the most forward-thinking and reliable major manufacturer--but on this comparison I think I'm going to have to give the edge (narrowly) to the Kodak. It's a damn good camera for a very, very reasonable price (currently $180 at Amazon). If you think the image stabilization will really help you, you might want to go for the Canon, but otherwise I think the Kodak is the way to go. Good luck!
i thing am going to buy Canon
am Canon supporter too
byyyyyyyyy
I have used Windows Movie Maker extensively. I have "produced" several movies. Most were 12 to 20 minutes in length, although my last movie was over an hour (in two parts). I like Movie Maker better than Adobe Premiere. However, Movie Maker WILL NOT allow burning of DVD's. One has to record the edited movie that is in Movie Maker onto a digital camcorder (and yes, you need a firewire port, with a $25 firewire cable). When that is done, the next step is to take the camcorder, and hook it up to a stand-alone DVD burner (like you hook to your TV). The DVD burner should record DVD+RW for best results.
Richio
And if you have a MAC, then you already have a suite called iLife which comes free with every MAC. It contains iMovie to edit and iDVD to make DVDs.
You could use a firewire port and cable for inputting your video, that is my preference. But USB 2.0 works as well, just not as fast. Whatever comes with your PC is fine, so long as it isn't USB 1.1 as that is simply too small and slow of a pipeline for the video stream to enter and exit the computer.
And I don't agree with you that DVD+RW yields the best results. That may be your preference, but just about every DVD expert I've talked to (and I was a DVD author for a living for a few years) has agreed with me that it really makes little difference whether you use +R or -R. And I will say that -R is the official format of the DVD standards consortium.
Thanks for the input regarding the AVI file. I did try to use Nero many months ago, it didn't perform as I expected; I just don't remember the WHY part.
I used a Samsung standalone DVD-RW burner to make several movies. (This was purchased about 18 months ago.) Friends, relatives as well as I had trouble with SOME of those that were made. I suspect the percentage of those that were problematic was at least 35%. Some people got the DVD to play on their PC, but not on their DVD machine.
Then I saw a web site that reported that stand-alone DVD players use the DVD+RW format. Ah HA!! So I went out and bought an RCA DVD+RW burner. I burned several discs with the new gear, and no one has reported any problems with those discs.
So in my case, it's not a matter of preference--it's a matter of what works!
Richio
But in the end, it worked out for you and that's what counts.
I want something small to keep in my bag or pocket, BUT...it needs to be a great camera:
- must have decent low light shooting....this is VERY important.
- I would like it to have some manual controls if possible, other than the typical "scene modes", unless scene modes are awesome.
- must have image stabilizing..or something of that effect
- must capture good color since I will be shooting mostly in bright hazy flat weather, or low light shadowed areas.
- would REALLY like it to be able to capture to raw file for editing in CS2 or Aperture
My recommendation is another Canon, either the S3IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or the A710IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Both have some manual control, good low light, IS. Sadly, they don't capture RAW.
RAW options include the Kodak EasyShare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) that also has manual control.
youtube.com/watch?v=ElmIw_K...
Ya win some, ya lose some.
Rich
Alex Lapthorne
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We can't send you a physical copy, but you can download a PDF version from the Canon USA site here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Just click on "Product / Software Manuals" and download the appropriate PDF file from the popup window that results.
Good luck!
In my experience, Canon's image stabilization system is worth quite a bit more than its (small) weight in gold. I have the PowerShot S2 IS, but their IS system is common to all PowerShot cameras, so I think my experience applies here. Anyway, it's a fantastic addition to a camera, and one that will save a bunch of shots that would otherwise be irretrievably blurred.
On other technical fronts, the SD900 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a slight edge in some areas and the SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has it elsewhere. For example, the SD800 has a true wide angle lens (28mm) compared to the SD900's more traditional 36mm wide angle. This means that the SD800 will do better at scenery/architecture shooting. The SD900 has 3 additional megapixels, but that shouldn't make too much of a difference unless you're planning to make huge, huge prints. The SD800's zoom is a little longer (taking advantage of the IS system).
Overall, I think that if you're looking to take mainly handheld snapshots, the IS system will be a great help in many situations, and it's enough to recommend the SD800 over its cousin. Good luck!
I'm not just wanting a digital camera. I'm DYING over here trying to find a good deal on the SD800. I found one, but it sold from under me. I found another but the promo ran out before I made my purchase. I WANT and SD800 bad for the IS and the wide angle. Most people are taking regular shots in and around themselves and thus the wide angle will be sufficient as the 7.1 megapixels. The reviews I have read have been exceptionally good. www.dpreview.com give great ratings and it's probably the best selling camera on the market in the "Worth Buying" catagory, which is why I can't find one in my local retail stores. Maybe I just need to let go of looking for a bargain and pay it out right because I WANT ONE BAD.
Help Rob
You've got a couple of factors working against you there in your ideal specs.
First of all, large zoom cameras often lack optical viewfinders because the larger lens makes it difficult for the manufacturer to produce a viewfinder that will represent what the lens sees accurately enough. If you're ok with an EVF (electronic viewfinder--essentially a mini-LCD where an optical viewfinder would be) then your options are expanded somewhat.
Second, ISO 3200 is going to be pretty much useless on all but the highest end cameras (SLRs). It's essentially a marketing gimmick, since at ISO 3200 compact digitals produce images so noisy as to be unusable.
Those things said, I think the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good match for you. It's a 7.1MP camera with a 6x optically stabilized zoom. It also features an optical viewfinder (albeit not the greatest) and advanced manual controls. Canon's movie mode is tops in the industry, and the image stabilization system does wonders when you're shooting handheld at the long end of the zoom. It does have its down sides--most notably a longer-than-average flash recharge cycle--but it's a great camera overall and fits many of your requirements.
Good luck!
The primary concern is ease of use (because my parents will use it as much as I will) and that's why I have ruled out any SLRs and have brought down my budget to $400.
I really don't want to compromise of the quality of pictures despite the fact that they will almost never be used for professional purposes. So far I was considering the Canon A710 but, now I'm not sure if I should buy it or go for the SD800 or the SD900. Please help me out. Also, please suggest me any better camera considering that IS is a must for me.
Obviously the right choice was the SD 900 because it's feel like a one solid piece of pure metal (titanium) made by one of the best cameras/lenses maker. As the result image quality is superb with not blur in every situation and most environments, intuitive controls and easy to learn menu.
Someone said SD 800 "Is" with wide angle? well, maybe but not everyone needs a wide lens unless you gonna take a full view of a bridge.
The 900 looks beauty and expensive ----a lot more than the SD 800 Is----. I quote that I couldn't find the "great" improvement of the stabilization considering that nice antishake features are included in most cameras today.
In fact, the SD 900 looks expensive (as really is) however I can say with no doubt it's the best camera on the market nowdays (including SD 800 Is) and worth in one each of it 10 megapixels.
Are you saying that the SD900's image quality is a result of the titanium body? You must be joking. In reading your post I noticed you used a lot of words touting the SD900's great looks, and few words discussing issues of PERFORMANCE. I think most would agree it's nice to be able to find what you're looking for in an attractive package but let me remind you that it's a camera, not a sculpture. You claimed, or at least alluded to having performed "an intense test" yet you say nothing of what that test involved or what the results were. You say the SD900 is "obviously the right choice" because "it's feel like a one solid piece of pure metal (titanium)". I suppose if a titanium body is more important than any other feature then you are right, because the SD800 does not have that feature. But let me suggest that the SD800 just might be a better choice for those of us who put function before form, not that the SD800 is significantly less attractive than the SD900 as you imply. Yes, the SD900 does have a titanium body and yes, the SD900 has a 10MP CCD as opposed to the SD800's 7.1MP, but the SD800 has something to say, too, not the least of which is it's VERY effective Image Stabilization. Your comment that you couldn't find "the 'great' improvement of the stabilization" tells me that either you didn't adequately test the feature or your unit was broken. And what's this about "nice antishake features are included in most cameras today"??? What anti-shake features, exactly, are you referring to? You can limit your answer to the SD900 since that is what we are comparing against. BTW, a tripod is not a feature of a camera. At this point I should mention that I, too, have used both the SD800 and the SD900, and I noticed a very significant reduction in blurred photos due to camera shake, particularly in indoor shots without the flash. To test this feature I took 10 shots from each camera of the same indoor scene using the same composition, standing the same distance from the subject, using the same lighting and the same ISO settings on both cameras. The scene I was shooting represented a typical low-light shot I would attempt without a flash. Both cameras indicated that the inadequate lighting called for a flash, but I left the flashes off for the test. Truthfully it wasn't all that dark but I typically don't use ISO settings greater than 400 because of the artifacts or "graininess" higher ISO settings produce. ISO 400 is bad enough. Unfortunately when you're shooting at anything less than ISO 800 it doesn't really need to be that dark before your camera is crying about too much camera shake without the flash. I personally prefer NOT to use the flash if I can get away with it, as the flash casts unwanted shadows and produces glare, not to mention the unnatural lighting it produces in your shots. With each shot I tried holding the camera as still as I could. To be fair I took the first 10 shots with the SD900 when my hands were likely to be the least shaky. The results were quite conclusive. 8/10 shots from the SD900 were severely blurred -- the kind of shots you can't delete fast enough. The other two shots weren't too bad, but they weren't completely clear either. In contrast, every single shot from the SD800 was perfectly clear. So, in summary, don't discount Canon's IS technology. They have many years in R&D perfecting it and it is EXTREMELY effective. My only gripe is that Canon didn't include IS in the SD900, perhaps because it would have bumped up the price of the already expensive flagship model too high. It's too bad because I would have gladly paid it, whatever it would have been. To those of us who prefer not to use the flash all the time Image Stabilization is a Godsend, and the weight of this important feature cannot be overstated. It's one of those things you cannot fully appreciate until you've used it, at which point it quickly turns into a feature you can't live without.
Before I go away I need to address one more thing you said in your post that I found to be lacking in reason. With regard to the wide angle lens on the SD800 you said, "maybe but not everyone needs a wide lens unless you gonna take a full view of a bridge." I don't know if I'll be taking any pictures of bridges any time soon, but I can guarantee you that I'll be taking pictures of the interior of houses (I'm a real estate investor) where you don't ever seem to have a wide enough angle, and I'll also be taking large group pictures from time to time (I come from a large family), and I'll probably want to take some scenic landscape shots, as I spend a lot of my summers in the great outdoors. I believe the average person would find plenty of use for the extra wide angle, bridge or no.
Be it known that I am by no means bagging on the SD900. After all it wasn't THAT easy a decision for me. With the increased use of plastics over the years it's refreshing to see so much metal in a consumer electronics device. I don't know how much more abuse the SD900 can really withstand over the SD800. I didn't perform that particular test. I doubt either one would survive a 10-foot fall onto bare concrete, even though the SD900 might look better than the SD800 after impact, but it almost doesn't matter -- a titanium body is just plain undeniably and inherently cool. I also like the SD900's beefier battery door compared to the SD800's flimsy thing, although I don't understand why they didn't go ahead and make the one on the SD900 titanium, too, instead of painting the little plastic piece to look like the rest of the titanium body. You're not talking THAT much more titanium. Sheesh! Cheap compartment doors on electronics are a huge annoyance with me, but the SD800 gives me enough good reasons to put up with it's weak points. When I weigh all the features of both cameras the scale teeters a bit, but ultimately tips to the SD800. But I realize everyone is different. To some people having the best looking camera on the block is so important that they are willing to make some sacrifices to achieve that goal. Then there are those who have bought into the megapixel lie and believe that the extra 2.9 megapixels will give them far superior image quality. The difference is really not that significant. And then I suppose if you had a rock steady hand or didn't mind carrying around a tripod then you wouldn't find the IS technology as attractive a feature as I do, but then you probably wouldn't be in the market for a subcompact camera if you were planning on packing a tripod everywhere you go. Wouldn't you rather have a pocket camera that would take clear pictures shot after shot in almost any lighting condition? If the advantages of the SD900 over the SD800 are more important to you than the advantages of the SD800 over the SD900 then you'll be plenty happy with the SD900, but those of you still obsessing over the looks or physical qualities of the SD900 consider this. Both these models will likely be thrown in the trash can after a few years to make way for new technology, but the pictures they take will be around for a lifetime (unless you forget to back them up or print them and your hard drive goes caput - DOH!). I don't know about you but I'll take a razor sharp 7MP photo over a blurry 10MP photo any day of the week.
But i'm waiting for the Nikon Coolpix p5000 to come out
Among other things, we're going to Greece this summer, and I'm not sure if rechargeable batteries will turn out to be a nuisance!
Has anyone compared the SD800IS with the Nikon L12? Any input on battery life? Are the non-Canon batteries (which are much cheaper) worth buying as spares?
Thanks!
I'm a strong advocate of having the right tool for the job. You could use a flathead screwdriver and a file (or a Dremmel) to remove a crosshead screw, or you could just use a crosshead screwdriver. Likewise, a SWAT team could feasibly clear a crack house while running naked and carrying .22 caliber pistols and Louisville Sluggers, but their results would be less favorable. Conversely, silenced .22 caliber pistols and Louisville Sluggers might be more effective than MP5Ks, 12-gauge Benellis and flash-bang grenades if you're a hit man trying to carry out a precision job with a minimal amount of commotion. If you want to take the best possible photos then take some photography courses and buy an SLR. Learn about lighting techniques using reflectors and flashes and be ready to spend some serious cash on lenses and other equipment. If you're on a limited budget (like me) get a decent DSLR like Canon's 30D or RebelXT, but still be prepared to spend some time learning the basics of photography and honing your skills. I personally own a Canon 30D into which I have invested considerable time and practice. The photos I take with my SD800 can't compare to those from the 30D, but the 30D can't go with me everywhere like the SD800 can. Still, I ONLY use the SD800 when the 30D is not an option (i.e. I don't have it with me), or for taking short video clips, which the 30D doesn't do. That's the SD800's "job" -- to go where the heavy and bulky SLR cannot -- it is NOT to take photos worthy of a 20x30 enlargement for your living room wall. Some would argue with me on that point but I stand my ground. Call me picky.
In recommending the SD800 it is with the understanding that you are in the market for a superior subcompact camera -- not a superior camera. In other words, if you were to ask me what I thought was the best camera on the market I would have to ask you, "best at what?", and even then since I can't personally test every available model my answer would be based on my own research combined with my own limited experience which would make my point of view somewhat subjective to say the least, but still based on facts and plenty of homework. Your own homework might reveal to you things I missed, which I hope you will share with the rest of us.
Good luck!
Anyone ever tried/compared the Fuji finepix that many of the reviewers rave about? Still going to buy the Canon again but thought I ask.
If you're going with a camera that uses a proprietary battery pack, though, I'd stay away from third party knockoffs, as many users have had issues with aftermarket batteries that completely melt down or at the very least function poorly.
There are several good brands for memory cards. SanDisk is pretty much the market leader, but brands like Kingston and Lexar are also good and often cheaper.
Hope this helps.
I was asking if anyone had actual experience with any of them other than the Canon-branded ones, which are 2-3 times the price.
Thanks!
I use SanDisk SD cards in my cameras and they've always been good to me.
I just bought a Li-Ion batt for my Casio. It wasn't a Casio battery. The new battery was ALMOST identical---but it was slightly thicker. The depleted Casio batt came out easily (much clearance), while the new battery was slightly tight. Not enough to require 'forced entry' ---but a bit unnerving. Hope I can get it out in three years. :)
I too, was vascillating between the SD 900 vs the SD 800IS. Per my research & reading of countless reviews, I'm on the threshold of opting for the 800... HOWEVER, my last 2 concerns are as follows:
1) The SD900 has a CCD size of 1/1.8" & the SD800IS has a CCD size of 1/2.5". The former being bigger & ergo, ideal (between the two). My only defense, to the SD800IS is that since it has a lower resolution, it can take par pictures with less CCD size.
2) The SD900 video capture is 1024 x 768 @ 15fps vs. 640 x 480 @ 30fps. The former being ideal for showing on my 50" plasma...I think!!!
Anyone with any KNOWLEDGABLE input would be appreciated!!!
Thanks~ Joey
I think a significant plateau has been reached in the digital camera world, similar to what happended to PCs a few years back. When PCs were introduced about 1977, every new model with a new processor provided a noticeable improvement in speed. PC hobbyists like myself upgraded along the way, sometimes as often as every year. This pattern continued until 200?, when PCs were FAST enough and had plenty of MEMORY to suit just about everyone. So why upgrade? Indeed, as an example, sales of Microsoft Vista are slow.
So now that digital cameras (and digital printers!) have gotten to the point where the average amateur photographer can take excellent photos with your basic 4-5MP point and shoot camera, and then easily print these, with or without a PC, I feel that the digital camera 'upgrade cycle' is coming to an end. Sure, a camera owner might want to 'trade up' to another camera, because the new LCD is 3" instead of 2"---but eventually, people with say, a 5-7 MP camera, with 4-10 zoom, and a 3" LCD, ARE NOT really going to be in some big hurry to get the same model with just a boost to 10 or 12 MP.
Larger pixels (physical size, not quantity) are supposed to increase sensitivity, and hence lower noise in low light. In the case of the SD800 and the SD900, the SD900 has larger pixels. The pixel size of the 800 is 1.76901E-08 sq. inches, while the pixel size of the 900 is 2.42284E-08 sq inches; this is almost 37% percent larger. This increase in size would explain the increase in sensitivity---the 800 is rated at 1600 ISO, while the 900 is rated at 3200 ISO.
You really don't want 15 fps; Chad is right. This is 2007---15 fps is really choppy, like using a brownie movie camera.
thanks for the speedy reply! I agree w/ you, insofar as the resolution of the video of the video not being paramount... considering the primary role of it being a CAMERA, as opposed to a CAMCORDER. I was just thinking that the surprising quality of video, in todays pocket-sized 'point & shoot' digicams, offered a bridge to the camcorders, warrants factoring in the video-taking attributes of the digicams. Case-in-point, I actually have the Sony HDR-HC7 HD camcorder & tote it w/me, when the occasion warrants. However, the camera accompanies me 90% of the time, being that it's so much smaller!
Alas, to the crux of this novel... when the desire/need arises to take unannounced video w/my digicam, the foresight , for having researched the better video capabilities of 2 (or so) given cameras, WILL be recognized :-)
PS Guyz.. thanks for the info... I will now be buying a SD800 IS :)
Thanks
I am trying to decide whether to purchase the SD800 IS or the latest SD750. Price isn't really an issue but quality is. I will most likely use this camera for everyday and vacation purposes and usually print 4"x6" pictures. I heard that the IS option is the most important feature, thus I should buy the 800. However, I heard that there is a lot of "noise" at high levels with the 800 and the new 750's High ISO feature is almost or even better than the IS in the 800. Previously, I had a Sony cybershot and one of my biggest problems was getting blurry pictures. So should I get the 800 or 750?
Thanks
Get the 800. You won't be sorry.
I'm not sure why people are so concerned about the battery in the SD800IS. The battery is one of this model's strengths. I've taken this camera on 2-week vacations, filling up several 2GB SD cards without needing to charge the battery once. If you're that concerned buy an extra battery, but in my opinion it's not necessary. I'm a picture taking freak and the one battery has been sufficient for my needs. In fact the problem you'll find yourself running into most often is forgetting to charge the battery because it's such a rare occasion that it needs a charge.
My typical use will be taking photos of the kids in general outdoor/indoor settings. The viewfinder is not so much a factor either as I could take it or leave it. What I really want is something that takes great pictures and is easy to use.
If money is not a factor in this decision which camera do you think is the best out of the bunch?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Shane
I also bought two Lenmar NB-5L-equivalent batteries from Amazon for $13.99 each, to use as spares when traveling. They fit perfectly, appear to have equal capacity, and cost 1/3 of the Canon-branded ones. I'll post this board if I find out anything to the contrary on our vacation. At that price, they cost about the same as the Energizer Lithium AA batteries I was buying every week for my Nikon, so even if I throw them away after a few charges, I'll be way ahead!
I also bought 2 Transcend 2GB 150x SD cards at about $20 each. They seem to be a better deal than the SanDisk II cards that were closer to $40. Again, no problems so far- although the first time I used one, I didn't format it in the camera first, and I had problems downloading the pictures. Since then, they've worked fine.
One thing about the camera- if you set the Manual settings to something weird, such as a high ISO speed, or photo effect, and accidentally set the camera to "Manual" instead of "Auto", you will get results that are weird! I was getting very grainy pictures until I realized I had set the ISO to 1600, and was in MANUAL instead of AUTO. It's an easy mistake to make . . .
Honestly I'm split here. The SD800 IS is a great, trustworthy camera, and it has image stabilization and a wide angle lens, which the other two lack. However, the other two have very, very good reviews so far and they're based on (slightly) newer technology. And, despite being older, the SD800 IS costs more.
Between the three, I think any pick would result in you getting a great camera. I would personally go for the SD800 IS because I've found the IS system invaluable on my S2 IS, and the added bonus of wide angle shooting is enough to push me over the edge.
Hope this helps.
Some have recommended the SD700 IS for better picture quality, but I'm sure the SD800 IS will be fine for me. I currently have an Olympus 5060 with a wide angle lens and it has served me well.
To be honest I haven't taken any pictures in the past four years with a non wide angle lens, so I wouldn't know the difference. I love my Olympus, but it is a bit bulky and dated. It has a small LCD and slow between shots. I'm looking forward to getting something with better performance and small enough to fit in my pocket.
I look forward to picking one up soon. Now I'm just trying to find the best deal.
Thanks again for the feedback and especially the link to the comparisons of all three cameras. Having all that info really helped solidify my decision.
Shane
you should check out the price for at Dell. A couple of weeks ago I was checking out the prices and they seemed to have one of the cheapest prices.
I haven't been able to determine with absolute certainty, but I believe that all A710s are manufactured in Japan. Either way, I would assume that even if they were manufactured elsewhere, they would be of similar quality. Good luck!
There are just to many to choose from. (Maybe someone could give me an another good advise for an another camera other than the T10/A540)
If you don't mind spending a few dollars more, the Canon A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (8 megapixel) and A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (10 megapixel) would be a better choice than either of these. They're similar in size but far more powerful and much better handling. They're pretty much crowd favorites around here, and you can't do much better in the compact digital range.
Good luck!
The Olympus 740 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is really a pretty mediocre camera. It has issues with glare on the LCD screen, which makes taking pictures very difficult outdoors, and its build quality and picture quality are only so-so.
Just out of curiosity, why are you anti-AA batteries? Most people find them incredibly convenient, as you can buy NiMH AA rechargeables, which have a longer life than most kinds of batteries, and can be recharged up to 1000 times in their lifetime. I use them in my Canon S2 IS and get about 450 pictures out of each charge. You can get 4 AA rechargeables and a rapid charger for ~$15, and if for some reason you don't have the NiMH batteries around, you can always sub in alkalines in a pinch. Can't do that with a proprietary battery pack.
Let me know if this doesn't change your mind and I'll try and point out a few good cameras similar in price/features to the ones we've already talked about, that have battery packs.
Good luck!
First of all thanks for helping me out ! Because it seems to get more confusing everytime i'm reading reviews, go to sellingpoints and other stuff....
I`m not anti AA-batts but I think 4 is a lot, kinda need 8 then to back yourself up on a trip. A camera with two AA's is the limit for me.
my Cam facts: - Good pictures (night and day) ofcourse....
- about $270 max
- 6 or more Mp
- prefer SD card
- Easy to handle
- min. 3x optical zoom
This should be it...
I hope you can name a few good cameras....
I want to buy one tonight on the internet, because ì'm leaving pretty soon :)
Steve
I feel you on the 4 batteries thing. There's a reason for the 4 instead of 2, though--much longer battery life. ;)
Ok... within your specs...
First of all, there's the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's very nearly as good as the A630 and A640, and has some extra features those cameras don't have--optical image stabilization being the most important of these. It's got a very nice 7.1MP sensor, can shoot in 16:9 widescreen, has a great 6x optical zoom, and does use a SD card. It uses 2 AA batteries. As you might have determined by this point I'm a fairly staunch Canon supporter, but I assure you it's solely due to my admiration of their image quality. This one is very slightly out of your price range (~$300), but I believe it's worth the extra cash.
Another you might want to consider is the Panasonic FX07 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's equipped with a 7.2MP sensor, a 3.6x optically stabilized zoom, uses SD cards, and it uses a LiIon rechargeable battery. Users seem to like it a lot, and the only difference between it and the more expensive FX50 is a slightly smaller LCD screen (2.5" to the FX50's 3.0").
Finally, there's the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has a 5MP sensor (below your spec, I know) but a great 10x optical zoom in a very compact package. It also uses SD cards and a LiIon battery and has the same optical image stabilization as the FX07. Some pro reviewers have complained about high image noise even at low ISO settings, but most users seem quite pleased with the camera.
These are the only three I really feel comfortable recommending under your specifications. I think you'd be happy with any of them, but my pick is the A710 IS.
Hope this helps you make a choice. :)
In the meantime I was checking a site, which gave a good summery.
The panasonics score was good !
I think it`s going to be this one, Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7, FX 07 or A710 IS :)
Can I ask for your last opinion please ?
Hahhahah you are definately going make a serious point now...
After this... i'm buying the piece of S*#T ;)
Ok... between those three, if you're prepared to spend the money it's really between the FZ7 and the A710 IS.
The FZ7 is of a different class than the A710 IS and the FX07--it's quite a bit larger and heavier (about twice as heavy, actually), and this might factor into your choice if you have a problem with carrying the camera somewhere other than your pocket (i.e., a camera bag).
It is, however, a very powerful camera, with a nice 12x stabilized zoom (twice that of the A710, three or four times that of the FX07) and a good 6MP sensor. Panasonic has had some complaints in general regarding high image noise and excessive noise reduction (which smears away some fine detail in an effort to get rid of graininess), but users seem to not have nearly as much trouble with this as pro reviewers do. But hey, it's their business to scrutinize everything, right?
The A710 IS is not an ultracompact, but it's small enough to fit in your average jeans pocket. Its lens is top quality, and while its 6x zoom isn't a match for the 12x of the FZ7, it's still quite impressive. Canon's image stabilization is as good as or better than Panasonic's, and their image quality is quite frankly second to none.
Honestly, my gut is still leaning toward the A710 IS, though its feature set doesn't match the FZ7's. If the longer zoom matters to you, and if you can deal with the larger size, the FZ7 may be a better choice for you. If not, I'd definitely go for the A710.
Continue what you`re doing, A +
Steve
Thanks heaps
Val
Not to beat a dead horse, but the A540 DOES have 6MP, not bad. And now the new A550 has 7.1MP, just like the A710.
I have the A710, I looked at the A630-640 and the S3. These last three were a bit bulky when I went to Best Buy to try them out. I was spoiled by the compact A520, and the A710 is just slightly bigger.
When people camera-shop, I don't think that they realize that the longer the optical zoom, the thicker the camera. It's strictly a matter of physics.
I was actually more thinking about a bigger zoom, aka the Panasonic DMC FZ7 ; we've tried to work out which one would be the best between this one, the Sony DSC H2, and the Olympus SP 500. My heart goes to the FZ7 :) but i am open to any other hint !!
Thanks for the help :)
Val
Tip: Sony uses memory sticks (yuk!) and Olympus uses Xd memory, correct? The most popular, hence economical---memory cards are SD. (Panasonic uses SD). So the SD will probably be the standard for a long time. If you buy another camera in 2-3 years, you would most likely be able to use your current (SD) memory cards.
Rich
I`m actually very happy with my canon a710s ! I`ve made 350 pictures on my holiday and they`ve been shot on the highest conditions on a 1gb SD card. Egypt came out very clear and almost fake (positive thing !) on the pictures. You can see all details and stuff when zooming the pictures on your pc. I think it`s worth the money ! The only thing which could be a turning point for your decision is the durability caused by the 2x AA.
You have to make sure the AA`s you`re using are strong because the camera uses a lot of energy. But on the other hand, 2x AA is always handy because you can always buy them practically in every store (just in case). To back up Richio, SD is definately the easiest way to use and to have with an eye on future buyings !!!
Steve
Thanks for getting back to the crowd. Glad to hear your A710 is working great.
However, it sounds like you are buying alkaline AA batteries!! You should run, not walk, to pick up NiMH batteries somewhere. (See Ben's second comment.) Once you go NiMH, you won't ever go back.
Check out thomas-distributing.com/ind... for nice package deals on batts and chargers.
We opted for the panasonic, it has been ordered, that and a 2GB card. The only thing that I feared was the lack of battery time as this model have one of its own and not AAs 'that you can buy anywhere', so we bought a pack of 2 extra batteries with it !! (Should I say we want to go to Europe for 2 months to explain why we bought extra mem and batt ???) Steve, just be aware that you have different qualities of rechargeable AAs and that the 2500mAh are WAY better than the smaller ones. ;)
Thanks again for the help and we'll tell you how it turned out as soon as we get the whole lot and we have time to try it !!
StevoOo...
One problem with rechargeables is that the charger is soooo 20th century. The new chargers analyze the condition of the batteries with sophisticated electronics, and adjust the current as needed. Then, when the batteries are 'full up' these new chargers will apply a little current every 10 seconds or so, to keep the batteries fully charged.
You can buy a battery kit (batts + charger) at your local discount store, but that will probably come with mediocre batteries (like 2000 mAh, or less!) and a charger that sucks. Spend $50 and get a nice setup. Check out thomas-distributing.com/ind... for great batteries and chargers. (No, I don't work there, no, I am not the owner's bro, etc.)
I bought their charger---Maha C204W 18 months ago. Best money I spent in a long, long time. This charger does AA's, AAA's, has a 're-conditioning' button, has a top-off routine, works internationally on voltages from 100 to 240 automatically, will charge up to 4 batteries 'in pairs'---which means that 2 batteries can be in the charger indefinitely, while YOU ADD two depleted batteries which then start charging with a different program, etc.
Defines STATE OF THE ART
Val
1 - Need 4 Batteries - rechargable
2 - Don't even look at the digital zoom figures - Only consider the optical zoom
3 - What type/size card was in use (prefer SD/1gig myself)
4 - Main Stream manufacturer
Result - Canon Powershot S3 IS - - Got it in November and over 6000 shots later I still think its the best thing since beer and pretzels.
Cheers Jon
The Happy Amateur from New Zealand
Thanks
grace
Thanks! Tracey
There are two main differences between the SD and A series.
1. Size. The SD series are pocket cameras--ultracompacts. They manage to pack a lot of power into a very small size. The A series are small (palm-size), but not quite as small--much thicker and a little wider/taller.
2. Features/manual controls. The A series are generally much closer to pro-level in terms of the options it gives you for manual control of important settings like ISO, aperture, shutter speed, and so on. SD series cameras tend to be nearly exclusively point-and-shoot, while the A series gives you options not available from their smaller cousins.
I personally tend to lean toward bigger, more advanced cameras in almost all situations since I like to have control over all aspects of my photography--you might value the smaller size more than I do. In addition, I feel (and user reviews tend to agree) that the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... is a much better camera than the SD700 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), in many respects. Check out some of the user reviews here at DCHQ and at sites like Amazon.com--they might help you make up your mind. Good luck!
A little research and a brief in-shop trial were done, and while we like A710's long zooming range and that we've been using Canon cameras for decades, we were somewhat shakened after the trial: not sure whether it's the display's problem, we just found the images appear darker in A710 than in FX07/50. And of course, FX07/50 is slimmer and the Leica lens is definitely something to be reckoned with. The same goes for Panasonic's display - surely better than Canon's.
Later on I've tried to get some pictures (online) taken by these models, and the closest I got for the Panasonic brand were taken by FX01 instead. And the background light for such photos was much different from that for the A710 photos. Therefore it's not quite possible for me to make a decision either.
These models have similar prices, all with IS function, and it's a difficult choice to make here. Hope some experts can help me with the question. Thanks a lot!
It can definitely get confusing trying to find an edge between a few cameras. Maybe I can help a bit.
First of all, I dug up a few image galleries from these cameras:
A710 IS:
#1 ( dpreview.com/gallery/canona... ), #2 ( dcresource.com/reviews/cano... )
FX07/FX50:
#1 ( john-reed.smugmug.com/galle... ), #2 ( smugmug.com/gallery/1276932 )
Obviously, these galleries aren't from the same photographer or under the same conditions, so bear that in mind while you review them.
Personally, I've always loved Canon's image quality. I've used a few Panasonics and I've liked all of them, but I've had issues with graininess (image noise) in the images they produce. The Canon also has a much longer zoom, of course (hence its bulk). Frankly, these are both very good cameras, but I'd caution you against judging the A710 IS by the images its LCD produces. Its LCD might be inferior to the FX50's, but the pictures it produces might be superior.
Hope this helps a bit.
The A710 operates a little slower but the image quality (at least in low light, no flash) is superior in my opinion.
Having checked out the sample photos, I managed to detect the slight difference on image quality between those models. That helps a lot.
By the way, as this would be the first digital camera for my sister and me, is A710 easy enough to use for novices like us?
The one caveat I mention with the A710 is that when you're using the flash, the recycle time (time after you take one photo, until the camera is ready to take another) can stretch into several seconds. So be prepared for that. Other than that, this is a fantastic camera and if that doesn't bother you then it should be perfect for you. Looking at the reviews, it appears not to bother most people. =)
You might actually be able to improve your lag time on the Sony without having to purchase a new camera. If you hold the button half way down to lock the auto-settings in, you can get faster shots. Also, if you use more manual settings, that can reduce the shutter lag as well.
If you do want to get a new camera, the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) gets great reviews on its shutter lag time. One customer even says that the "shutter lag has been virtually eliminated." Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
First of all, don't let the error discourage you on these cameras- they really are fantastic. I have the A85 myself and absolutely love it. Unfortunately all digitals seem to have their faults- Canon has the E18 error, Kodak has lens errors, etc. Just part of the deal.
With that said, you should definitely check out the website www.e18error.com. That website is devoted to people who have this same error and it explains why it's happening and possible things you can do yourself to fix it at home. I would caution you against doing anything drastic to the camera that might make it worse- but at the same time, if the camera is old, it's not under warranty, and it would cost as much to fix professionally as it would to buy a new one, some of those solutions might help you. I say if it's a choice between trying at-home solutions or throwing away the camera, then definitely check out that site and give some of the ideas a try. Good luck!
If you like the Canon's, the Canon SD40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice. The high ISO range of 80-1600 is great for high to low light settings. It is also very portable at 3.78 x 1.78 x .94 inches, so it fits easily in a pocket or purse. I would say it lacks in optical zoom though (2.4x). If you're not trying to get very close photos, this is a camera for you.
If you don't want to sacrifice the zoom capabilities, the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with 6x optical zoom is the choice for you. Its still portable and has a respectable ISO range of 80-800 (1600 lets twice as much light in as 800 for brigther pictures in lower light). That lacking would be made up with the image stabilization function in the camera.
Both cameras are around $230, so fit right into your budget.
Andrew
I've had wonderful success in transferring from the auto settings in my 3 Canon's to the manual settings. I use them in a mix of both ways depending on the types of shots I take. The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be no different. The only thing you may find wanting in this camera is the lack of manual focus. You can "trick" the camera by pushing the shutter halfway down to focus on one distance, then shift to a different area to keep that level of focus though. Other than that, this would be a great camera for what you want to do. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The A710 camera CAN be set to manual focus mode, without using the "trick" method. You set the top dial to M (manual), press the MF button (the bottom of the 4-way pushbutton) and there you are. Then simply focus by pushing the 4-way button, either right or left. A rectangle at the center of the screen is magnified, and you can focus there.
Richio
Both cameras are reliable, but, personally, I would go with the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The optical zoom capabilities (10x vs 6x), the more manual settings, as well as its capability to use additional lenses (with an adapter) make it a much more versatile camera. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Most dSLR cameras do not have an internal image stabilization system. The Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is no different. With faster shutter speeds, this is not usually needed. You can purchase Nikon specific IS lenses ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/i... ) if you are using slower shutter speeds or are zooming at high levels and want the extra stability. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Image stabilization is really only usefull in certain circumstances, all depending on your shooting needs. If most of your photography is based on studio still life, or wide angle focal lengths, or if mainly used on a tripod, monopod, or some type of steady apparatus, then there is no need to pay extra for an image stabilization lens. But for sports or capturing any type of action subjects with longer focal lengths then an image stabilization lens will be helpful which also depends on each individual of how steady they personally are.
Whether you are using a image stabilization lens or not, I would recommend using a monopod for any hand held shooting situation. Once you use a monopod you will wonder why you did not use one sooner, plus it will save you time by reducing your shooting ratio and money on the extra lenses.
Happy Shopping!
Piero Foto
the screen resolution to execute digital camera solution disc is not sufficient.I have Pantium 3 Pc with 20 GB hard drive & 256 ram,and windows 200.Please advice how should i install the digital camera resolution disc.
If you look into buying a new PC, I would recommend that you get one with at LEASTE 512MB of RAM. Preferrably 1024MB (1GB). If you are looking for a really good deal, I would recommend buying after Jan 30. This is because a new operating system is being launched and the "old" computers with Windows XP will likely go on a pretty good sale. As an added bonus, you will also get the free upgrade to Vista (the new operating system) so you won't be out of date.
Also, do you have to wait a noticeable amount of time for the flash to recharge before being able to take another photo?
Check out
imaging-resource.com/PRODS/...
for another review of the A710.
Good luck,
Richio
What am I doing wrong? Please help.
Embedding the Date in the Image Data
You can embed the date on image data when (Postcard) is selected. The date will be printed on your images even if it has not been set at the computer or printer.
* Ensure that the camera's date/time is set beforehand.
* Set the camera to a shooting mode (except (Stitch Assist) or Movie).
* Press the <DISPLAY> button so that icons show on the LCD screen.
1. Check that appears on the LCD monitor.
- If it does not, click here to view the procedure for changing the resolution.
2. Press the <MENU> button.
3. Select (Date Stamp) in the [ Rec.] menu using the or buttons.
4. Select [Off], [Date] or [Date & Time] using or .
5. Press the <MENU> button to exit the menu.
6. Shoot the image.
- The Date or Date & Time will be embedded into the actual image.
When using a CP printer, part of the date may not get printed if the credit card size print (54 mm x 84 mm) is selected.
The Date Stamp cannot be deleted from the image data once it has been set.
Changing the Resolution to Postcard
1. Press the <FUNC.> (or <FUNC./S) button to display the Function menu.
2. Use the or arrows to select the resolution option.
- If the camera has not been changed from the default setting, it will be set to L.
3. Use the or arrows to select (Postcard).
4. Press the <FUNC.> (or <FUNC. / ) button to exit the function menu.
However, you state that this is "grayed out" for you. So I'm thinking you need to get with Canon support on this. It may be a firmware update, which is available from Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
After reading both your e-mail as well as James, I feel that the critical item you might be missing is to set your camera in POSTCARD mode. That is the ONLY mode that you can have the date stamp turned on. This is the last item on the list after you press the FUNC SET button (in the center of the 4-way button).
If you have selected that (last) line, it should show " L M1 M2 M3 S * " ----the * is a little clock symbol in front of a card. PICK that icon, and the description will say
"Postcard 1600x1200"
Then go back and the DATE setting should be highlighted, not grayed out. The only time the DATE setting is NOT grayed out is when you are in POSTCARD mode. I know, this setting is LOW RESOLUTION. One consolation is that ALL the images taken by the camera have a date recorded as part of the photo data. Of course, this is only visible if you upload the images to a PC, (and read the data by "right clicking" the mouse button.)
Finally, (if you have more problems) check pages 32 and 33 of the "Advanced Camera User Guide" that came with the A710, for DATE setting instructions.
Richio
Rich
Recently I had to change the battery and now the date stamp function does not work anymore. Everytime I try to set the date and select FUNC/SET the date goes back to 0. So then I followed your instructions below:
"If you have selected that (last) line, it should show " L M1 M2 M3 S * " ----the * is a little clock symbol in front of a card. PICK that icon, and the description will say "Postcard 1600x1200". Then go back and the DATE setting should be highlighted, not grayed out. The only time the DATE setting is NOT grayed out is when you are in POSTCARD mode."
But the DATE setting in the menu function is still greyed out and won't let me turn on the date stamp. Do you have any other clues?
Thanks!
This would actually be a good camera for the trip. It has a lot of capabilities that, when used correctly, will render terrific photos. Canon's auto settings also make it very easy to take good photos quickly. The A710 IS ( amazon.com/Photosmart-6221-... ) is also very portable. She won't have to lug around a dSLR for the week or a larger extended zoom. The image stabilization and ISO 800 setting are also great for lower light situations. I would recommend an extra battery and two or three 1-2GB SD cards for all the pictures she will be taking. Don't forget to get power converters for the charger so she can charge the battery in the hotel or house she is staying at at night, as well as declaring the camera before she travels. Good luck.
Andrew
if you switch from capture to review, the lens retracts after one minute
Both are excellent cameras in terms of image quality and ease of use. As far as a better buy, I would lean towards the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) just because the technology is a little more advanced- it has a more compact body and most importantly, it has image stabilization, which you won't want to live without once you've tried it (it makes a huge difference in preventing image blur). The only downside with the A710 is that when you are using the flash, the recycle time- time from taking one photo until when the camera is ready to shoot another- can be quite long, stretching into several seconds. But if you don't shoot with flash terribly often or don't mind a little delay, this camera is really fantastic.
Other than those things differences are negligible. Hope that helps.
The A710 IS is a larger, bulkier camera than the SD800 IS. I personally think it's a very stylish camera, but then I've always liked Canon's A-series machines. It's got a nice two-tone gray finish (plastic, but fairly rugged plastic) and feels good in your hand, with a nice grip to the right of the lens. The buttons are laid out well and it feels very intuitive to use. The SD800 is of course smaller and lighter and easier to fit in your pocket, but the A710 is no monster, either.
Hope this helps!
I haven't taken a lot of indoor pictures w/flash. However, the problem these people are complaining about is a FEATURE :) Seriously, there is a setting in the camera that allows for the shutter to remain open AFTER the flash goes off. This is on page 14 of the owner's manual---the Slow Synchro Function. "The flash timing is adjusted to slow shutter speeds. This reduces the chance that only the background will appear dark when a person is shot against a twilight background or night scene, or when an interior shot is taken."
One example of using this is when you are taking a night photo of a car driving off. This setting will have the flash light up the car, but then the extra shutter open period will show the tailights receding in red streaks.
Richio
ps Nobody ever reads the manual from cover to cover, (including myself)
The LZ3 is indeed an incredible value. However, it is inferior to the A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) in several ways, which I'll try to detail here.
1. Build quality. Many users of the LZ3 have reported issues with cameras simply failing after a few months. This will happen at least once in a while with any brand and any model--it's just the nature of delicate electronics--but the reviews section for the LZ3 here at DCHQ seems to indicate that it might be something of a trend.
2. LCD. The Canon has a 2.5" 115,000 pixel screen, while the LZ3 has a 2" 85,000 pixel screen, which is really quite poor for a camera these days.
3. Image noise, particularly in low light. The LZ3 has trouble with any ISO setting above 100, while the Canon fares significantly better. Pretty much any non-SLR digital is going to have issues with low light shooting, but Panasonic has unfortunately acquired something of a reputation for particularly poor noise levels.
4. Movie mode. The LZ3 doesn't offer audio recording in movie mode, which is going to be a serious showstopper for some people. The A710, on the other hand, includes a market-leading video mode--I personally own the S2 IS, which uses the same video mode, and I can guarantee you that it's fantastic.
This is not to say that the LZ3 isn't a good camera. It is, and it's incredibly feature-packed, especially for its price. The A710 IS is most definitely a better camera, but it's up to you to decide if it's worth the jump in price.
Good luck!
Both cameras have 7.1mp and 10mp respectively. movie mode with sound, are highly rated. The 710IS has image stabilization which is helpful taking pictures of that moving toddler or yours, and a slightly larger optical zoom. And the A710 shoots in widescreen, which is great for landscape pics.
Good ones to be sure.
There are quite a few cameras that have fairly fast response times. The Powershot A710 IS that James mentioned is a wonderful camera, but I would steer away from it if you do any shooting with the flash on. That is because with the flash, the recycle time of this camera (the time it takes from shooting one photo until the camera is ready to shoot another) can stretch into several seconds (we're talking like 8-10 seconds before you can take another picture under certain conditions). Not good if you're trying to take several pictures of a fast-moving toddler doing multiple cute things in a row. =)
I would lean towards one of the Sony Cybershot DSC models, which have nice movie modes and fast operation... but as I said, there are a lot out there that fit this criteria. If you can give us a few more details on what is important to you I might be able to narrow it down further. Do you like manual control, do you shoot mostly in low light or outdoors, etc.?
As for recycle times, the 710 and 640 report the same recycle time. I agree, though, it's way too lon But the question is, how often are you going to use a flash for multiple shots that a good set of fresh batteries won't cure?
I also figured flash recycle time might be important as if she is photographing a baby she may be indoors, and babies move quickly so a fast recycle time might be important. Kristina, I hope you found the camera you needed!
Unfortunately, all Sony cameras only take Sony MemorySticks, and the H5 is no exception.
As to your other question, the H5 isn't really directly comparable with the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )--the H5 is of a much more full-featured class of cameras. Its more direct Canon competitor is the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has a similarly super-long, stabilized zoom and all of the manual controls the H5 has. Both are very good cameras, but I prefer the S3 IS for Canon's trademark smooth image quality and accurate colors. I also prefer the Canon's ability to take SD cards rather than the more expensive memory sticks, and its superior movie mode.
Hope this helps!
For the record, both are fantastic cameras in their own ways, but if you're looking at the H5 I highly recommend the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (again, Ben beat me to this one!) because I think the image quality is superior.
Many people avoid Sonys because the memory sticks are all you can use, and they're pricey. I think that was a dumb marketing idea on Sony's part personally.
The H5 has a very small sensor, so the image quality is good enough for the ones who only want to take outside pics. Almost the same as the Canon. If you want better image quality, you should jump to non that common brands, but really better cameras.
Look for the Samsung Pro815, any Panasonic FZ (I recomend the FZ30) or the FujiFilm S9100... or the very expensive Leica V-LUX 1 (almost the double price... but if this is not a problem...............). The other ones, are almost the same price, or maybe a little more expensive... but there's huge difference.
Hope this helps you find your next camera,
Alan.
A better comparison to a Canon would be with the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is in the same class as the FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and FZ7. The A710 IS is a much smaller camera with a much shorter zoom, and isn't really comparable to the Panasonics.
I personally prefer the S3 IS to the Panasonic offerings, as the Panasonics often have issues with high levels of image noise when shooting in low light or at higher ISO settings. On the other hand, I've always been pleased with Canon's image quality, which tends to be very smooth and detailed and usually has very natural color.
Hope this helps!
The smallest cameras you'll find with a huge zoom are the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Nikon S10 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The problem here is that the smaller you make the cameras, the harder it is to make their big zooms function well. The smallest of these, the V610, is also the worst-rated, and that's no coincidence. Smaller cameras have slower zooms, a harder time focusing when zoomed in, and tend to have much more shutter lag. All three of these cameras get bad marks from pro reviewers like dpreview.com for their shutter lag and slow/poor-focusing zooms. This is exactly the kind of problem you don't want when you're trying to shoot animals in motion on safari.
I think that you'd be much better served by choosing a slightly larger camera with better performance. If you'd like further assistance selecting a larger, better camera, please don't hesitate to let me know.
Good luck!
The cameras I listed above all feature 10x optical zooms. Strangely, the cameras of the next level up in size tend to be 6x zooms. Of these, there are several very good options available. The best of these is the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has a 6x optical zoom with a very good image stabilization system (compensates for shakiness in your hands) and a nice 2.5" LCD. It's got a very good 7.1MP sensor, too, so you'll have plenty of room for cropping if need be. Most importantly, it's a very quick performer. It's quick to focus and quick to shoot. The A710 IS is probably the best compromise between size and power.
Larger compact digitals like the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) offer 12x stabilized zooms and very quick operation, but they cost quite a bit more and are much heavier and larger.
Hope this helps a bit.
IS is important to me, the reviews on the A710 have been outstanding, as were the ones on the SD800, but I don't really care for the body style (I like the grip on the left side of the front of the camera which the SD800 lacks).
So, is anyone familiar enough with all three to maybe highlight what each one might have as a benefit over the other two?
Was really hoping for some feedback to this question, but the more I read on the A630 and the fact it had the highest score of all the Canons, I feel confident that the one I chose will handle all my needs. Thanks though!
With the flash function turned off, the camera works fine.
First of all, what camera do you have? This question looks connected to the A710 so I'm assuming that's it, but it also seems to be connected to the Nikon D2H for some reason. So can you tell me what you have just so I'm sure? Are you using the built-in flash or an external one?
I would point you towards almost any of the Canon A-series, which have good flash performance indoors... depending on what you mean by 'mid level,' I'd suggest the Canon A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) in particular. The main reasons I suggest this camera are because it has a built-in "light guide" zoom flash which has an above-average strength and works great in small to medium rooms. If you're five to six feet away from your subjects, it should work really well. This camera also does a great job of avoiding red-eye with the flash on, which is a major concern with indoor flash shots.
I guess I am not sure what a mid-level is either. I do not think I need a 10 MP camera. In the A-series I have been looking at the canon A610 or A540. I was also interested in the SD700 IS, S2 IS or S3 IS. Any thoughts or do I only get the one question?
It's no problem, I can definitely help. Sorry it took me a few days to get back to you... it's been busy over here in my world. =)
Generally speaking you probably don't need 10MP- it definitely won't hurt you to have it, but it will up the price of the camera and it won't be necessary unless you're printing HUGE photos, or you're a graphic artist, or something to that extent.
You asked about indoor flash shots. If that's what you're looking for, I would avoid the A540 for one reason: it has a very slow flash recovery time. What that means is, after you take a shot with the flash on, the camera takes a long time (sometimes up to 9 or 10 seconds) before it is ready to take another one. Same issue happens with the A710 IS. Don't get me wrong, both are fantastic cameras, and if you're not planning on shooting quick shots in succession this won't be a big deal. But for example if you want to photograph fast-moving children, and you use the flash a lot, I think that you would find this recovery time issue to be frustrating.
The A610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) seems to do considerably better- not sure why, since it has the same processor, it just seems to be improved in other areas and it recycles flash at about 5 seconds between each photo. That's still not very speedy, but it's way better. The SD700 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is even speedier and recovers in about 2 seconds even with the flash. Do watch out for fragile screens on the Elphs though.
The S2 and S3 are amazing cameras, and they offer a lot of creative control, manual settings etc. If you're interested in learning a lot about digital photography those might be really good investments. They are a pretty far leap from the A-series, mainly due to their large zoom and manual capabilities. How interested in creative control are you- would you rather just point and shoot?
I hope that helps a little... and feel free to ask as many questions as you want, that's what we're here for. =)
I have the S30 for 5 years and the LCD no longer works. I am looking to upgrade and like the A710 IS for the IS and 6x optical zoom. I understand the flash and it may be due to the 2AA batteries not 4 that are in the A610. Any thoughts on the S60 or S70? This is my last question I need to purchase a camera for a Disney trip soon. Thanks, Mary
Is the flash and red eye still ok with the A710 IS?
The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) really is fantastic- you can tell by the reviews here that people are loving it. You are most likely exactly right about the two AA batteries being part of the issue. The image stabilization helps hugely on this camera, especially because it's a wee little thing. If the flash recovery time doesn't bother you, this is a great camera for a trip- the long recovery time is truly the only complaint I've heard about this one that holds any weight as far as I'm concerned.
If you're using flash, you may have some issues with red eye occasionally, but the A710 IS isn't the worst offender by far. It has a red eye reduction system too- the kind where there is a 'pre flash' before the photo is taken so that people's eyes adjust to the light before the real flash happens. I've found this feature to be effective myself.
Also, I suppose with the image stabilization, you could make the argument that you will need the flash less. Even in semi-dim indoors you can turn the flash off and let the camera use a slower shutter speed to capture the shot, since the IS will keep the image steady/ avoid shake. Something to consider. The IS is a big plus as I'm sure you know.
The S60 and S70, I don't know much about other than they offer lots of creative control and are mostly known for their very high quality lenses which produce really good images. Small bodies, wide angle lenses, quick and snappy. Might also be worth looking into.
DOES IT PAY TO GET THE G7 RATHER THEN THE A710?
It really depends on what kind of camera you're looking for. The obvious difference is size, the A710 is slimmer (and better looking) while the G7 is bulkier, but in terms of image quality and everything else you're looking at very comparable cameras. One big thing is that the G7 offers the option of external flash. If that isn't major for you, I would take the A710 considering the price difference.
EVEN THOUGH THE G7 HAS A METAL CASING (THE A710 IS ALL PLASTIC)
THE G7 HAS RECHARGEABLE BATTERIES (THE A710 USES 2 DOUBLE-A BAT.)
THE G7 HAS THE NEW DIGIC III PROCESSOR
THE G7 HAS iSAPS with Advanced Noise Reduction and Face Detection AF/AE
THE G7 HAS 10 MEGAPIXELS
THE G7 HAS SOME NEW COATING ON ITS LENS
THE G7 HAS MORE MEGAPIXELS ON ITS LCD SCREEN
THE G7 IS JUST THE NEWEST & MOST UPDATED IN ITS CLASS!
TRUE I DON'T NEED THE EXTERNAL FLASH & I'M NOT IN TO PHOTOGRAPHY
BUT SHOULDN'T I GO WITH THE NEWEST ONE?
AFTER ALL I DON'T BUY A NEW CAMERA EVERY YEAR (ONLY AFTER THE OLD ONE BRAKES!
DO YOU STILL THINK I SHOULD GET THE A710?
-The A710 body is not all plastic, rather it's a mix of metal and plastic. The G7 is considerably tougher, but some find it slippery and hard to hold onto, and the A710 is lighter and more compact (this is one of those areas where it depends on what you're looking for in a camera, small size or ruggedness?)
-The A710 can use rechargeable NiMH AA batteries- cheaper than the G7's battery pack, and totally rechargeable. Also makes the camera lighter.
-The A710 also has iSAPS, plus 9-point focus and flexi-zone... different offerings than the G7, but not necessarily worse.
The main thing here is that the G7 has advantages, but whether or not they are worth the price difference is totally up to you and your shooting needs and preferences.
What you should keep in mind is that these are two different series of cameras, the A-series and the G-series- as you said the G7 is the newest in its class, but the A710 is kind of a different class. Thus the G7 will offer things that the A710 doesn't, and the A710 will have a few advantages too.
My recommendation of the A710 is based on the facts that it's cheaper, and it's easier to handle due to its small size, yet it still offers many of the same things- creative manual control, image stabilization, etc. In my opinion, image quality from these two cameras is remarkably comparable. That means that one of them doesn't have noisy images, or a bad lens, or anything else that might disturb your picture quality. Yes, even with more megapixels in the G7 you won't notice much difference in quality unless you are blowing your photos up very large.
Nobody wants you to buy a new camera every year. Can I suggest going to the store and handling both of them? That might decide it for you right there... sometimes you can read all the reviews in the world and not know what camera feels best to you until you try them out.
The A710 has a nice lens already. It focuses macro, down to 1 mm, and a 6x optical zoom at the other end. Why spend a lot of money on lens accessories?? (See my ps below.)
The definition of SD is Secure Digital; "secure SD" is double-talk.
Size? The A710 manual states that if you shoot full 7-megapixel photos, and choose superfine (high quality) compression, you can store (about) 156 images on a 512MB card. So, a 1GB card would provide twice that, or approximately 312 photos. Personally, that is plenty of room for me. I might shoot 120 photos on a one-week vacation. Ever since decent-sized cards came out about 4 years ago, I've never run out of room before I could upload to a PC.
The number of photos that can be stored varies slightly, depending on the nature of each photo. The compression algorithm looks for similar pixels, and stores them as a group. So a photo with a lot of one color, e.g., a big blue sky, will take up less memory than a more complex photo.
GOTO thomas-distributing.com for info on batteries. May as well get the new 2700 mAh NiCad batteries for sale there. They test batteries for endurance; read the charts to see which you like. I bought a nice setup of batteries and charger from them two years ago.
One accessory: a case. There is no need to spend $25 on one. Target and Wal-Mart have cases for $5- $8. Just take your A710 to the store, to try them out for size.
Richio
ps welcome to the fun world of digital. By the way, I assume you have a PC. A good photo software package would be a nice accessory. I use Adobe Photoshop.
There are only four Canons with image stabilization, and only two of these are truly compact.
The S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are bigger cameras (not as big as SLRs, not as small as the A and SD series). They're very powerful cameras, (5 or 6MP sensors, 12x optical zoom, fast and intuitive operation) have good continuous shooting modes, very long battery life, and a class-leading video mode (in terms of quality). Unfortunately, the compression mode that they use for video is pretty inefficient--the longest you can get from these cameras at top quality is 8-9min per gigabyte. The S2 IS is limited to 1gb video files, while the S3 IS is unlimited (but obviously you're limited by your total card size--4gb or less). The S3 IS can shoot at 2.3 frames per second in continuous drive mode.
The SD800 IS and A710 IS are smaller and less powerful, but still very good.
The SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is the smallest image stabilized Canon. It's got a 7MP sensor, a 3x optical zoom, and the same image stabilization as in the S2 and S3, and a nice wide angle lens (28mm). It lacks most manual settings and is essentially a point and shoot camera. It can shoot 1.7 frames per second in continuous drive mode.
The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is slightly larger than the SD800 IS. It's got a 7MP sensor and a 6x optical zoom. Unlike the SD800 IS, it offers full manual controls and has a sweet flip out and swivel LCD screen (as does the S3 IS). It can shoot at 1.7fps in continuous drive mode.
Hope this helps!
The A710 has a fixed LCD, it doesn't flip out.
a. Hot shoe: G7 has a hot shoe that allows the attachment of a more powerful external flash with separate power supply. This minimize drain of camera battery
leaving it to take more pictures.
b. Maximum ISO speed: G7 boasts a noise reduction ISO 1600 which is useful for taking pictures in low light without flash. You would want to avoid flashing into the
eyes of babes at close range whenever possible.
c. Max. pixels : G7 comes with 10 meg CCD. You will love this if you need to print giant posters of children or to crop pictures without losing much of the quality.
THE A710SI ALSO USES 2 DOUBLE-A BATTERIES & MORE PICTURES PER BAT. VERSES THE G7. (I DON'T LIKE EXTERNAL FLASHES, THEY ARE TOO HEAVY & TOO CLUMSY, I WOULDN'T BUY AN EXTERNAL FLASH.)
DO I REALLY NEED THE 10 MEG. PIXELS? IS 7.1 NOT ENOUGH, EVEN FOR CROPPING PICTURES? WILL THE MEMORY CARD FILL UP QUICKER?
NOT THAT I DON'T LIKE THE G7, I WOULD LOVE IT! I'M JUST TRYING TO FIND OUT WHICH ONE IS REALLY BETTER FOR ME. I'M NOT PROFESSIONAL AT ALL, I JUST WANT A CAMERA THAT WILL NOT BE COMPLICATED TO USE, TAKE EXCELLENT PICTURES (INDOOR & OUTDOOR) & LAST........& LAST..........
I FOUND COMPLAINTS IN THE REVIEWS FOR THE G7. IT CLAIMS THAT THE A710IS IS JUST AS GOOD AS THE G7! COULD ANYBODY DISPUT THAT? DOES ANYBODY OWN A G7 OR A A710IS; THAT COULD IN-LIGHTEN ME ABOUT THE PROS. & CONS. OF THESE 2 MODELS.
My A710 was an upgrade from my A520. I did order an 11x14 print from one of the 4-megapixel photos on the A520. It was a more than an adequate blow-up, in fact, the print sold at an art show.
SO, I think the 7 megapixel size is more than enough for most of us. The 10-megapixel size could be useful for cropping on the PC. Not needed, but there may a photo in your future, say, of a distant sight (wildlife?) that you could really zero in on and get a decent print with. But if you really wanted to go a little beyond the A710, then I would go look at the A640. It also has 10 megapixels, and is really quite a camera.
The only real surprise to me with the A710: It is bulkier than I expected. I knew that going in (with specs all over the web), but, still, I miss the slightly smaller size of the A520.
If the extra features of G7 is not required, then there is no more justification to spend extra money on G7 and the choice becomes obvious.
The A710 is smaller, a bit less expensive, but it does have a 2.5" LCD, the S3IS is only 2". But the S3IS LCD rotates, not so on the A710.
A710: 6x optical, 7.1 megapixels
S3IS: 12x optical, 6 megapixels
The A710 uses two AA cells, I think the S3IS uses four AA cells.
So the question remains what do I Buy, the S3 or the A710? Or maybe even the G7!!!
The only disadvantage I can see the G7 has to me is that it has a rechargeable battery that does not last too long. It also has some other problems that I found in the reviews, but I not the professional to know exactly what they are talking about! So does every camera have problems. So I'm confused.
Can you please guide me what to buy???
I just need the best up to date problem free camera I can get, a point & shoot for every day home use.
Just found this, somebody just posted this! what do you thank!
I just got my G7 today, and i fell in love with it straight out of the box.
It feels and looks great, has a good build quality and takes excellent pictures (including amazing macros).
The non-flip screen and the lack of AA batteries put me off when comparing specs on line,but holding and shooting with the A640 vs the G7 made the decision very easy.
If you don't mind the additional cost and you still have the option of returning the A710, I'd definitely go for the G7. You know where the extra money went as soon as you start using the G7.
Perhaps I'm gushing. But there was none of the 'expensive new product anxiety' when I received the camera. Often with pricey purchases, I wonder if I've been taken for a sucker. Not this time.
I personally feel that if I really wanted to travel with a camera 'on my neck' ----why not just go out and get a dSLR camera.
The SD cameras are easy to use, and might be your best bet, unless you feel you want to get into more creative photography, like choosing shutter speeds, F-stops, etc.
If you want more MP, to spend more, go with the SD800IS, about $340-$390. That gets you 7MP.
You can get at least 300 shots on a pair of (NiCad) AA's, if you don't use the flash.
"Better" is always a relative thing when it comes to questions like this, but maybe a look at the stats can help you out here. You can click here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ) to see a head-to-head comparison. I'll do my best to interpret.
In terms of resolution and sensor size, the W100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is the winner. It's not only got more megapixels (8 to 7), but a larger sensor. This means that those extra pixels have a lot more room on the chip, which means that each pixel gets more access to the light that makes up your image, which means that your images should have less noise and come out sharper and cleaner (particularly in lower light).
However, the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has several huge advantages. First of all, it's got a 6x optical zoom as compared to the W100's 3x. Paired up with that better lens, the A710 has an optical image stabilization system, which means that the lens elements actually move to compensate for your hands shaking when you take a picture. The result is that shots that would have otherwise been lost to blur are often crystal clear.
In terms of size and weight, the W100 is a bit smaller, most notably in terms of its thickness (1" to the A710's 1.6"). Both cameras have a 2.5", 115,000px screen, which is fairly standard for cameras today.
Other considerations:
1. Macro. The A710 IS has a much better macro mode (1cm focal distance compared to the W100's 6cm). This means that it can take sharp pictures of things much closer to the lens.
2. Batteries. The A710 IS takes AA batteries, which some people see as a downer, but I see as a big plus. With a camera that takes AAs, you can use AA NiMH rechargables, which are cheap and readily available. Much, much cheaper than the proprietary lithium ion batteries that the Sony uses.
3. Memory cards. Again, Sony uses a proprietary format--the MemoryStick. The A710 IS uses the much more readily available (and cheaper) SecureDigital format.
Personally speaking, I don't think that the extra size and the slightly smaller CCD sensor are enough to outweigh the big advantages the A710 has. It's my pick here. However, users seem to love both cameras. You might want to consider going into a big store like a BestBuy and try both cameras in-hand, see which feels better to you.
In October of last year, I bought the Canon A710. I haven't any problems with either camera. Although both cameras are in the "Powershot" line, I did notice some nice improvements in the way the internal menus worked on the A710. For one thing, when you select an item, such as "no flash", that icon is momentarily enlarged and centered, then shrinks back to it's normal (small) size. This nice touch makes it much easier to see what you have just selected. Also, you can have gridlines on the LCD screen. These are in thirds, i.e. the screen is divided into nine sections. These lines help to keep the camera level with the horizon, or with the edge of a building, etc. Of course, they can be turned off, although the grids on mine are kept on all the time.
Did you have to send your G2 into Canon, and was it under warranty?
Rich
You might try the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is rated as the "Best Mainstream Zoom Camera" in DCHQ's Editors' Spotlight. It fits right in to your price range and will get clear, quick shots for you. Canon also has a pretty good red-eye reduction mode on their cameras. I would recommend buying Ni-MH AA batteries with a charger ( amazon.com/Sony-Power-Charg... ). They will last longer than standard alkaline AA batteries.
Andrew
imaging-resource.com/
for in-depth comparisons and reviews of the two cameras.
Taking your specification concerns into account, your best bet is most likely the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The 7.1 megapixels will give great picture clarity and sharpness, it has the most optical zoom of the 3 cameras, and the LCD on the three are the same. You might have some issues with the AA battery life, but if you switch to rechargeable Ni-MH AA batteries, you will basically match the lithium ions that come with the other two cameras. A kit with charger ( amazon.com/eneloop-Compact-... ) is less than $20. Good luck.
Andrew
I have the A710, which was an upgrade (for me) from the Canon A520. Some of my favorite things about the Canon A710 is the full AUTO/MANUAL capability. Also, macro capability (it focuses down to 1mm) and 13 level flash intensity.
There are some smooth touches: The icons that you use to make settings, are enlarged (briefly) for easy confirmation to the user. And the green light on top that lets you know the camera is on.
good luck for you hoilday
cheers
revhead227
Rich
I don't know if he has tested any of the cells that are claimed to have even higher capacities. (I should ask.)
Digital cameras take a lot of juice. If you are buying alkaline, you will go broke and die unhappy. NiMH batteries are the way to go.
The life of rechargeable batteries is measured in mAh (milliamp-hours). The latest that I have seen are 2900 mAh, although 2700 is excellent as well. Anything under 2000 mAh is really too light-duty for cameras. One problem with rechargeables is that the charger is soooo 20th century. The new chargers analyze the condition of the batteries with sophisticated electronics, and adjust the current as needed. Then, when the batteries are 'full up' these new chargers will apply a little current every 10 seconds or so, to keep the batteries fully charged.
You can buy a battery kit (batts + charger) at your local discount store, but that will probably come with mediocre batteries (like 2000 mAh, or less!) and a charger that sucks. Spend $50 and get a nice setup. Check out thomas-distributing.com/ind... for great batteries and chargers.
I bought their charger---Maha C204W 18 months ago. Best money I spent in a long, long time. This charger does AA's, AAA's, has a 're-conditioning' button, has a top-off routine, works internationally on voltages from 100 to 240 automatically, will charge up to 4 batteries 'in pairs'---which means that 2 batteries can be in the charger indefinitely, while YOU ADD two depleted batteries which then start charging with a different program, etc.
Defines STATE OF THE ART
They threw in quite a bunch of plastic 4-cell cases. I have 4 AA cells in my pocket even when I don't have a camera with me. I alternate the cells (+ ends) when they're charged and align them when they need charging. That's how I can tell which need recharging and which don't.
(For my A303 that uses just 2 cells I rubber-band pairs together and keep them in the camera case. Aligned means discharged, reversed relative to each other means charged.)
Question: Do you know how to make it easier to figure out which way the batteries go in the camera? The 'embossed' plus and minus signs are small, and of course, are the same gray color as the surrounding material.
Answer: Take a fine ink marker pen to label + and - on the camera (on the inside of the battery door).
For further information please log on to
cnet.com.au/digitalcameras/...
A710 is not difficult to learn, if you want to go for it. But if you want something simpler, there will be plenty of ' point and shoots ' to choose from if you log on to the Kodak website kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier...
I'm not sure what you mean by the AUTO and FLASH problems.
The most important thing is to be able to take pictures indoor, in low light, and also to be able to take pictures fast enough to follow my son around the house or outside.
I own Canon IXUS camera and I have loved the clarity and color of its pictures - but it is slow to respond and I don't care much for its pictures in low light with flash.
I have read great reviews of A700IS, especially with the full manual set. But it seems that it has slower warmup and big lag between shots. It does have a great zoom however.
A640 seems to be all about MegaPixels.. and no IS.
SD800 has IS, decent zoom, but limited manual controls.
Which one would suit me better - in low light, indoor, fast enough for a toddler?
I bought the A710 over the S3, however, because the S3 is bulkier than I like.
But my main requirement right now is a easy to shoot, with great pictures indoor, and minimal shutter lag.
If you like the manual adjustments, then you are out of luck with the SD800IS. Both the A640 and the the A710 have incredible manual control. For example the A710 has thirteen levels of flash intensity.
I read in some articles that A700IS has a noticeable shutter lag, the long wait after a flash shot - how much of a problem is it really?
You can check out cameras at a site that is more thorough than this one:
imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM
There are several cameras between $100 and $150, and the lowest megapixel size nowadays seems to be 4-5MP. So long as you stay with a brand-name, and the camera has what is called 'macro' mode, you should do fine with close-up photos.
Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents and photos for eBay!
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
Sounds like a nice camera, but I noticed that at the long tele (18x) the f-number drops to f8. So I assume when you are at 18x, you have to be in bright daylight (to get a sufficiently fast shutter speed, that is?) I suppose the 18x zoom might work at dawn or dusk, if you don't need a really fast shutter speed. And I don't mean to point this out as a defect, since other 18x cameras also drop to f8 ---or the lens would have to be huge and expensive.
~thanx
The 710 has 6x zoom, the 570 has 4x zoom.
The 710 does NOT have Digic III/face recognition, the 570 DOES.
These appear to be the important differences. As nice as I hear the face recognition is, I would hate to give up the nice 6x zoom. I'd vote for the 710.
I'm guessing that the 570 will be a little less money than the 710. If I am right, then the 570 might save you $30-$50. But you have to wait a bit for the camera to appear.
There are several different classes of cameras involved in your question, so let's try to break it down a bit.
The A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and are the two closest matched here. The A570 is essentially a minor upgrade on the A710: it brings in the newer DIGIC III image processor, ISO 1600 shooting, and face detection autofocus. These are all nice upgrades, but the camera also has some small drawbacks compared to the A710. Its optical zoom is shorter (4x vs 6x) and there's no improvement in terms of megapixels or LCD size/resolution. Of the two, I'd stick with the A710.
The [url=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ( ]A570[/url ) and P5000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are fairly closely matched as both are 10MP semi-compacts with full manual controls. The P5000 is much smaller and lighter than the G7, but it also has a shorter zoom. It does have the ability to go up to ISO 3200 shooting, but experience with many digital cameras tells me that ISO 3200 is more of a gimmick than a usable mode for digital shooting.
The TX1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a completely different prospect than the other four cameras you've listed. As a hybrid still/video camera, it can offer features that none of the others do (HD video shooting, for starters) and its form factor is significantly different. It's shockingly small and feature-packed, but previous hybrid cameras have suffered from subpar performance in one mode or the other, so I'd hesitate to recommend the TX1 without seeing some sample images first. It's also quite expensive.
Essentially, it comes down to what you really want in your camera. The A710, A570, and P5000 are all pretty small, full-featured cameras. The G7 is a little larger and even more feature-packed, and the TX1 is a radical new design that's as-yet untested. If you want a proven camera, go with the A710. If you are willing to take a tiny risk, the P5000 looks like a good choice.
Hope this helps!
Ive narrowed my choice to 4 ; G7 vs P500 and TX1 vs TZ3 (Lumix).
G7 has it all covered against the P500 as far as features are concerned , the only thing holding me back is no one ever saw the end product of the P5000 yet. A lot of hands on review on P5000 can be promising but without an evidence of a real side by side comparison, one can never tell. Advice: Wait till we see the P5000 perform in test shots. On a separate note , the P5000 feels tiny and plasticky compared to the really heavy G7, but it will save you a lot of space and weight if you plan a camera that goes with you all the time.
For the TX1 vs TZ3 - The only thing I like about both is the significant stabilized 10x optical zoom despite a compact size. Both cameras have something to throw against each other; TX1 has HD recording and acceptable picture quality, while Panny's TZ3 has 28mm wide angle capability but suffers from noise...throw in the LX2 in there and it gets the more confusing. Cant anyone make the perfect camera yet? In the end It all boils down to your priorities.
Picture Quality. Compact. Zoom. You can only pick two.
They are not capable of reproducing the quality of the DSLR's, so keeping that in mind, it's easier to pick a camera for your needs; you should think if you need a small camera that fits into your jacket, shirt or similar, or you don't mind carrying it on your belt or that it bulks in your jacket.
You should also keep in mind that you need a camera that does not take a long time between shots, specially with flash.
For all of this, I incline for the Nikon P5000, which is not as expensive as the G7, and I just made some test shots at the store with my SD card and looked at them in my PC, and they were good quality at ISO 64-200, a little noise at ISO 400.
Maybe if you could go to a store and you see them side to side you can decide better.
However, the Only-Auto ISO option of Canon Powershot A710is to be a slight drawback?
The 6x zoom is awesome, size, feel too, the burst shots are incredible, but in picture quality and perfomance is deplorable. It takes forever between shots specially with flash, the pictures are SO grainy even in low ISO.
I do have the Nikon P5000 now and it does have some slight defects, such as slightly slow between shots with flash when battery is low, the batery durabliity is not as good as I would like, but it is much better than the Canon A710is, and for the pictures I've seen in internet tests about the G7, the P5000 takes better pictures, and handles really well.
I doubt that the lens is the problem, probably too slow shutter speed and/or too shaky hand. The A710 has IS which mitigates the above problems.
Your response caused me to get the two cameras out and look carefully at the lenses. Well, I found a big smudge on the A520. Wiping that off should help a lot!
Just as important though, is that there are two different lenses on these cameras. The A520 has a 5.8-23.2mm lens, while the A710 has a 5.8-34.8mm lens. The f-numbers match, but the focal lengths don't. So the diameter of the A710 lens is larger by exactly 50%
(34.8/23.2=1.5)
I'm glad you discovered that smudge before writing the A520 off. Yes, they do have different lens with the 710 having a wider zoom range. I've read alot of reviews for both these cameras along with the rest of the A series and most reviews give them excellent IQ ratings and sharpness.
I have posted here earlier when i was still choosing what compact i will purchase, and after a few off-country travel with the G7 , this is what i have proven to be true for me:
The G7 is a damn heavy compact.
The G7 should'nt be pocketed...lest you're a giant.
Stable hands, stable hands, IS will not make flashless shots that grand. Dont trust Auto setting too much especially on dark settings.
and finally, if you really want a pocket camera that can go with you without the extra space and hassle, go for the Nikon P5000 or Ricoh caplios. I swear there were even times that I wish that I had a tiny Exilim or Sony Tseries in my pocket for those snapshots.
This experience made me think more about in-between cameras. Sometimes one just have to make things simple; either go BIG or go small. Then never look back.
So the super-slims are nice and quite handy. If you don't take a camera with you, you won't get the shot!
Many cameras take great 640x480 video (that will still look great on a HD screen) so unless you really care about HD then the TX-1 is not really necessary.
for total info on the Canons.
If your camera is still under warranty, the best thing you can do have Canon should fix it.
If your camera is out of warranty, or if Canon refuses to repair it for free, the one thing you can try is to If you gently, and I do mean GENTLY push against the lens with the PALM of your hand as you turn it on, it may cause it to depress back into the camera. If that doesn't work, and you can't reset it or turn it on/off several times, then you may have to send it in for a repair estimate anyway.
Be advised, however, that if it's out of warranty, it may cost more to repair than it is really worth. The rule of thumb is that if the estimate for repair is north of 50% what you paid for it, you're better off taking that money and buying a newer and upgraded model.
You may log on to Sandisk.com for further information :
sandisk.com/Compatibility/D...
thanks alot
On Canon cameras, it is called "Color Accent" mode. The Canon A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has this feature. It is also rated the "Best Mainstream Zoom Camera" in the DCHQ Editors' Spotlight. Happy shooting.
Andrew
Mainly, the A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a longer zoom but the SD800 can go wider (35 - 210mm on the A710, compared to 28 mm to 105 mm on the SD800); the SD800 is also more compact (and more expensive). Both are excellent cameras. I would recommend the A710 for more general purposes and for close-ups, and the SD800 if wide angle is your main concern. Also, just to make your life more complicated, the A710 can take conversion lenses, and it offers more manual controls- if you just do basic point and shoot, either camera will work, but if you want to control the aspects of the shot the A710 will suit you better. I do think that the SD800 performs faster, particularly when shooting with flash.
Hope that helps!
can any body please comment this issue of A710IS on the when using flash and the lcd is switched on in A710 IS, Does the lcd goes off when a pictute is clicked? and again it has to be started.
please comment as i wannna buy this set.
The Powershot line has been around for quite a while (I've had a Powershot S230 for 5 years and it still works great). Both of the cameras you have listed above are 7.1 MP resolutions, so you won't have problems with 4x6 and even up to 20x30 prints (if the sharpness setting is set for the finest level). Both cameras also have the same frame rate per second for faster shooting speeds. The major differences in these cameras are the DIGIC II Image Processor on the Canon A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the ISO 1600 setting on the A560 (better in low light situations). Note that neither of these cameras has Image Stabilization though. Between these two, I would go with the A560 because of hte higher ISO setting.
If image stabilization is something you really want, you might try the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) ($255). It also has 7.1 MP, ISO 80-800, and a longer reaching 6x optical zoom (the other two only have 4). This comes with the same easy user interface as the other two cameras as well.
Andrew
Do you dislike how photos end up fuzzy because someone was running or not being still or your hand was shaking?
Image Stabilization actually prevents the fuzz from happening.
Megapixels: 7.1 vs 10
- More megapixels create sharper images when they are printed or displayed on a computer screen
Optical zoom: 6x vs 4x
- More optical zoom allows photographers to get "closer" to their subject. Digital zoom will distort photos, so I don't take much stock in it.
Batteries: 2 AA vs 4 AA
- I personally don't like using AA batteries in a camera unless I use NiMH rechargables. They last longer, and I always carry an extra charged set in case they run out. You can get 4 with a charger online or at a retailer for around $20.
Personally, I would pick the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because it has more optical zoom. I like the ability to zoom more. The resolution difference in the megapixels won't really show up that much unless you're blowing the photos up to poster size or cropping a lot of the photo out before printing. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
can any body please comment this issue of A710IS on the when using flash and the lcd is switched on in A710 IS, Does the lcd goes off when a pictute is clicked? and again it has to be started.
please comment as i wannna buy this set.
keeping this flashy problem in mind, should i buy this set or i try another?
please suggest.
there is no hardware solution for the red eye problem. Trying to find a camera that can fix the problem is wasting time and money... The solution is computer software like Adobe Photoshop Elements, for example. It completely fixes the red eyes and in most cases even automatically.
The P5000 looks to be a very solid camera, but it hasn't been out long enough yet to garner any definitive user or pro reviews. However, if you're noticing annoying edge distortion on PR photos from the manufacturer website, I doubt they'll be any better on a production model. Call me crazy, but I have to think they put a lot of time/energy into getting the best shots possible to use as promo stills.
As for other cameras that have similar specs... you might want to check out the Canon A710 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A570 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which have lower resolution but longer zoom and similarly good image stabilization systems.
Hope this helps!
I have been borrowing friends cameras and so far, the only one that shows sharp detail is the Nikon D70 - but with lenses it's expensive.
You might want to consider other cameras in the S2 IS's class, as they're the closest that non-SLRs get to dSLR quality. Others include the S3 IS, the Panasonic FZ50, the Sony H5, and the Kodak P880.
Good luck!
Both of these are very good cameras, and both are ultimately capable of getting the kind of shot you're talking about. The A710's IS system, however, will ensure that you get that shot more often.
As to why the A640 doesn't have an IS system... I'd put it down mostly to the fact that the A710 was Canon's first experiment with image stabilization and it came out around the same time as the A640. In a year's time, I doubt you'll see a camera in that price range without IS.
And you're absolutely correct, the A710 IS doesn't have a flip screen.
As to which you should get... in my entirely subjective opinion, the A640 has greater overall picture quality, but the A710 beats it in terms of features. In short, if the IS system and longer zoom are a priority for you, go for the A710. If not, the A640 is a good pick.
Good luck!
Thank You.
I would say that if you want the most camera for the money, it's definitely down to the two A-series models. The SD-series are small and cute, but they don't pack the same power that their bigger brothers do.
Between the A710 and A640, it really comes down to whether you feel you need the A710's IS system and longer zoom. I think the A640 produces a slightly better overall image, but the A710 definitely has it beat on features.
If at all possible, you should go to a big electronics store and try both of them out in person.
Hope this helps!
People that have the flip-screen cameras swear by them. It seems like such a screen (as on the A640) would be very handy.
However, the best camera in this price range is the Canon S3IS: Great 12x zoom, flip screen, and IS. Here again, it is larger than I like. It is very SLR-like, you might call it a compact SLR "look alike". But it is more compact than any true SLR. Incidentally, 6MP is plenty of MP for 98% of all amateur photographers.
You do have numerous shooting modes for this camera:
"Auto; Creative: P, Av, Tv, M; Image: Portrait, Landscape, Night Scene, Special Scene (Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Underwater, Indoor, Kids & Pets, Night Snapshot, Color Accent, Color Swap), Stitch Assist, Movie"
So, depending on your situation, you can often set the scene accordingly and leave it there. But often times, I simply leave regular flash on, even in daylight. Depending on the situation. A good flash can make your subjects "pop."
But the rest of the time, auto will work just fine.
I know the basics: the megapixel differences, and that the "SD"s have less-bulky cases, and that the A570 has a settings dial similar to my Rebel XTi, and that two use AA batteries and the others have rechargable batteries. I have also posted a question re: "SD700 vs. SD800" and read others re: the Pros & Cons between those two.
But what are the reasons to get the "A710" or "A570" rather than the SD"s ... and, if so, what are your comments about the "A"-series cameras?
Thanks!
Maybe you don't need/want that; then you might like the compact SD line.
See imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM
if you haven't been there already.
By this time, I'd say that you need a compact camera with the best lens available... and that takes you to Panasonic, because of the Leica lenses. I would buy the LZ7, because of the versatile 6x optical zoom... but take into account that the LCD is not that good (2,5" but only 115000 pixels). But, if you want a camera that's perfectly usable in any other case than the beach... you can go for the g7 (Canon, of course), the FujiFilm F30 (despite the 3x lens, it's the best of it's class because of image quality in high ISO), Nikon L5, Ricoh R6, or the Canon A710 IS...
If you want a camera for only the beach... the LZ7 is the camera. But if you want something you can use even after holidays... go for something else: I would buy the F30... (I'm going to buy that one next month), or the G7.
Hope to be helpful,
Alan Schamber.
Hey... something else... maybe you want a water resistant camera... so just take a look at the Pentax W30.
The beauty of the waterproof cameras is that WATERPROOF IS ALSO SAND-PROOF. So I gotta go with this last idea of Alan's.
MAJOR CLUE: (No charge, except for points!! :) Pentax and Olympus both make waterproof cameras. Both use a "W" in the model numbers to signify "waterproofing" ---while the Olympus also uses an "S" to signify "shockproof". As in the Olympus Stylus 770SW.
See imaging-resource.com/MFR1.H...
I would prefer the Canon since it has manual controls, lens thread and optical viewfinder. These features give you the ability to take control over the shooting situation and you will be able to get good results in more difficult light conditions.
It has wide angle lens, digic 3 processor, longer battery life, smaller size, closer macro mode and shots quicker too.
Only con is the price.
Has new digic 3 processor.
Has face detection.
Is smaller and lighter by a bit.
what will you use it for.
Thanks, Alot
A570 has 1600 ISO(better night photos)
A570 IS has four video shooting modes.
Here is the link to canon official webiste
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
If I had to choose a sub $300 camera, I can point to what our editors call the best all around digital cameras, the Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the A710IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
The reason why I feel the A710 is not as good as the A570 are:
1. Reviews point out that the A710 has only 1GB of video record while A570 has 4GB.
Now this is where I AM CONFUSED.
This is what one review says:
"You can record VGA video (with sound) at 30 frames/second until either the memory card fills up, or the movie file size reaches 1GB (which takes just eight minutes). "
So if I have a 2GB memory card in my A710, will it absolutely stop video recording after the first 1GB fills up, or will it just end that video and allow me to start shooting a new video till the entire memory card fills up?
PLZ HELP !! This is a MAJOR point which is confusing me, and preventing my purchase of my first digicam :( [since video record is imp. 2 me]
2) Websites(eg:Dell) poitn out that the A710 doesnt support Windows Vista Operating System while the A570 does.
Does this make a difference at all?
3) Is the DIGIC III of the A570 (also with face detection technology) a big advantage over the A710 ?
4) Do both have the same and equal no. of manual features?
Lastly SORRY dont hv ne points, since I'm such an amatuer. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Do you need to record more than 8 minutes of video at a time??? Name me one movie ever made on the face of the earth where one scene exceeds 4 minutes!! I have used camcorders for over 20 years, and have produced several movies w/Moviemaker. Your typical scene of kids playing, or of a building, or a waterfall, or horses pulling a carriage---averages probably 10 seconds or less, edited. Now you might shoot 30 seconds of that waterfall---but when you get back to your PC, and produce a movie, you will make that scene 10 seconds or less. Otherwise the movie will be a sleeper, and pretty much watchable only by a zombie.
There, I got that off my chest. The memory limits placed on digital cameras only applies to one clip. So a 2GB card could hold two 1GB movie clips.
Your point #2: Any support or lack thereof of any OS (operating system) depends on the SOFTWARE CD/DVD that is IN THE CAMERA BOX. So this has nothing to do with the camera itself. The typical digital camera records 'jpegs' on a memory card. These data files all have the same format from camera to camera.
So even IF the A710 support disk has no support for VISTA, any PHOTO EDITOR---compatible with VISTA---can be used to used to load photos onto the PC. In fact, I suspect that VISTA has some sort of basic photo loader/editor built in, just as Windows MovieMaker is included with Windows.
My Canon cameras (one is the A710) all came with a nice photo organizer from Canon. But I use the Photoshop program in spite of that.
Point #3: The face detection deal is cool, IF you take a ot of portraits. Not useful for anything else. What is neat about the Digic III, is that the chip is better designed, and runs faster and more efficiently. Thus shot-to-shot times shorten, AND (this is hardly mentioned anywhere on the web)---your batteries last longer! EVERY MILLISECOND THE CHIP IS CHURNING with processing, it is burning electricity. This battery drain is not a 2 to 1 ratio or anything like that. But it could mean going from 250 shots per battery change to 280 or 300.
Point #4: All of the A500-A600-A700 series Canon cameras have excellent, FULL manual control, like selecting flash intensity. However, it appears that Canon does not rest on its laurels, but it continues to upgrade the internal software of these cameras, so a newer model might have an extra feature or two that is not on the older model. EG, my A710 has a low battery indicator on the LCD---not so on my older A520. Now the A710 is not old, I believe it was introduced in September 2006, while the A520 is about two years old.
Good luck
One last thing,
Would you be able to tell me why you think the A710 is a better camera than the A570 ?
Thanx a ton !!
I might have chosen the 570 over the 710. The main advantage of the 710 is the 6x zoom; otherwise it seems to be the same camera. So the price of the 710 is a little more money. I suspect the 710 is a little thicker in size, not quite as compact as the 570. I haven't played with the 570, but my guess is that it is the same size as my A520, since that also has the 4x zoom lens.
One inescapable fact about optics: The bigger the zoom, the thicker the lens. That is, the distance from the focal plane to the OUTSIDE of the lens gets larger with each increase in the zoom power.
Thank youuu.
Yes, the 710is has much more zoom and also manual controls that allows you to take more control over the camera. The camera itself is also much bigger than the SD cameras. I guess that this is the reason for lower price. Most people like smaller cameras that fit in shirt pocket...
If you do use either XP or 2000 you could try using them instead and see if that works or I would suggest buying a card reader that you can put the memory card into and then plug that straight into a USB connection on your computer. That would solve it if it is a problem within the camera itself.
Good luck,
Mark
The A710 is a very good choice here, especially since its image stabilization system will help greatly in low-light (indoor) shooting, and its manual controls will help you minimize blur when shooting your daughter in motion.
...you'll have to learn how to use them, though ;]
And yes, 6x is a pretty substantial improvement over 4x zoom. Digic III is just an incremental evolution of Digic II--it should be faster and more battery-efficient, though how much of a gain it really offers is anyone's guess. It also adds a new feature to several Canon lines: face detection, which claims to be able to lock onto a subject's face and keep it in focus no matter how/where it moves.
Hope this helps!
However, you need to buy an adapter to connect the camera to the microscope before you can do it.
Please refer to <a href="microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/ar... article</a> for general information on digital photomicrography.
When you decide to go ahead, please log on to <a href="zarfenterprises.com/lens%20... site</a> for the microscope adapter of A710is.
It also depends a lot on the skill of the photographer, some can do it better than the others.
If pictures are needed for serious presentation, then it is advisable to opt for the proven way. Otherwise, there is no problem as to how you take it.
One good option with the specs you've listed is the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's got a 7.1MP sensor, a 6x optical zoom, and Canon's very good optical image stabilization system. It's quite quick and features a very good automatic shooting mode as well as full manual control over shooting settings.
As to your question re: bright light and LCD screens--yes, it can be a problem. Last weekend, for example, I was out at a race track shooting very quick-moving cars with my Canon S2 IS. The S2 IS has a 2.5" LCD and an electronic viewfinder (EVF), which is basically just a second, smaller LCD that takes the place of a traditional viewfinder. In direct sunlight, it was very hard for me to see the EVF unless I used my free hand to shade my eyes while I was shooting. The A710 IS does have a regular glass viewfinder, however, so if you go that route you should be ok there.
Hope this helps!
Quick responses would really appreciate since I need to buy one right away for next Thursday's school fieldtrip. Thanks.
These are both very good cameras with some significant differences between them.
The SD800 IS is an ultracompact, meaning that it'll fit in your pocket with ease. It has a great 28mm equivalent wide angle lens, Canon's wonderful optical IS system, and produces great images. Users really seem to love it. That said, it lacks some of the features of the A710 IS--namely, the longer zoom and manual shooting options. The A710 will no doubt fare better at sports photography due to the ability to manually set shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. Meanwhile, the SD800 will do better at parties/group pictures due to its wide angle lens and its general party camera nature.
Either one would be a good call, frankly, but each has its own special edge.
Hope this helps!
That was very good info. Thanks.
Which one takes better pictures in door and at night?
Ben, can u help me too ??
A710 IS / IXUS 800 IS / SD 800 IS ??
My gut is telling me that the SD800 IS will do slightly better in low light situations, though if you're using flash it's probably going to be a dead heat. I doubt there's really too much difference between the two.
You should be aware, however, that pretty much all non-SLR digitals have trouble with low light shooting. Some are able to compensate for it with high ISO settings to reduce blur, but this usually leads to image noise. If it's not one thing, it's another.
Good luck!
Remember, when you have a large lens and start zooming, you'll lose even more light than you originally had unless you have a very good, large lens. Get there early and plan accordingly. If possible, ask other photographers who shoot in that stadium to find out general default options.
The A710 can use the digital zoom while recording, but the optical zoom unfortunately doesn't work while recording. And yes, I agree with you that based on everything else, this seems to be a great camera, the reviews are great. Just remember that when you use the digital zoom it cuts down on the quality. It is like when you crop a photo after it is on your computer. With optical zoom you don't lose any quality. My cousin has the A700 model and has been quite pleased with it. It has a lot of neat features to play around with and experiment. Well, hope your searching goes well, all the best - Josh
I use this example a lot, but how about going for the $300 S3IS? It's "only" 6MP, but 12x zoom. The A710IS, by comparison, would need a 24MP CCD to compare, and the A640 about 26MP. Again, I'm just basing it on how much resolution is required to double/crop a picture zoom digitally.
I know that didn't really answer the question directly, but you have to make sure you get what you want. Personally, the extra megapixels on the A640 isn't a big deal, and can easily be made up with a larger zoom. But if you end up taking a non-zoom picture (say, indoor portrait, where it's not physically possible to optically zoom in) and want to blow it up, that's the only time the megapixels will help.
AS PER VARIOUS REVIEWS S31S IS BETTER AS WITH 12X ZOOM ETC.
The 12x zoom is superb, and all the Canon Powershots (that aren't super-slim, like the SD models) have close macro, like 1mm. I have copied kodachrome slides by placing them ON the lens, and aiming at the big "cloud like" fluorescent light in the kitchen for a light source.
I think you would much prefer the S3, IF you don't mind the size. I would try them out at a dealer. On the other hand, if you opt for the A710, the major thing you are giving up is the 12x, since you go to 6x.
Suggestion to me was that due to its bulkyness and nonsleek design of S3 IS ,one would hesitate to carry it always .
No doubt S3 IS due to its features is technically better , but for amateur or home / family photography A710 IS is suggested.
12 X optical zoom is very useful in outdoor photography.
I know this is an old question, but just wondering if you have found a camera yet. There are a few I'm thinking of that might suit you; nowadays (thankfully) things are speeding up and there are some compacts available that could suit your needs in terms of response time, etc. Let me know if you're still in the market and I'll try to make some suggestions!
Sorry it took me a few days to reply- we are swamped with questions over here! =) Let me run over a few things and then make some recommendations:
-As far as resizing/ enlarging photos for scrapbooking purposes, the best thing you can do is make sure the camera offers a few different resolutions (all of them do; low to high quality) and that there are enough megapixels for you to be able to blow up the photo decently. The rest of the work you can do with editing software (<a href="picasa.google.com/">... is a great free tool if you don't own something like Photoshop). Unless you want to blow photos up very, very large, you should be just fine with something 6 megapixels or more.
-For speed, you obviously want something without much lag time, both between photos (shot to shot time) and from when you push the button to when the shot fires (shutter lag). Having an SLR, you are probably used to super-fast response; a smaller point & shoot is going to be a little slower than that, but luckily most of the cameras on the market today are still good and fast and should suit you well enough.
There are a LOT of great cameras in this price range that offer all these options.
Here are a few possibles:
Canon SD750 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) - This is the camera I want for my birthday (I hope my boyfriend is listening. =)) It's super speedy, compact, takes great photos and has all the options you'd need. The SD1000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is basically the same camera with a slightly smaller screen but a super skinny body.
Maybe you want more zoom than these have? While it won't be as small, you can check out the Panasonic Lumix TZ3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), just as speedy but perhaps slightly less total image quality than the Canons.
I tend to point people towards Canons. Not because I'm biased but because I think they truly give you the best shot for your money. Although the zoom is attractive, though, avoid the A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) unless you never shoot with a flash. This camera has a very slow shot-to-shot time when flash is used.
Does this help at all? The ones I threw at you are mainly new models which tend to be faster in operation (technology is speeding along!) Let me know if you need further advice.
With all that being said - if you are looking to shoot soccer games or other sporting events or auditorium events - then you need either a long zoom (for distance) or an SLR (for speed of focus and shooting). I suggest getting the Nikon D40 (not the D40x, as you can save money and don't need the 10MP of the "x") and if money is not an issue - get a VR lens, like the 18-200 VR. Otherwise if you don't want SLR, then maybe the Panasonic TZ3, Sony H5, H7 or H9.
Good luck
Adam
I am looking at a camera with atleast 7 MP and 6x Optical zoom...
<a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... is a fantastic run-down of the differences between them. Make sure to read the whole thread, as there are a few corrections made to that list in later posts.
As you can see there are some changes that are good, some that are not so good. Whether it's worth it really depends on what features are most important to you.
Thanks again!
The S5 continuous shooting mode does have a nice perk that the S3 doesn't, which is the auto focus, that keeps the moving subject in focus continously while you fire.
So really, the continuous shooting issue will depend on what you want to shoot. Do you have a specific need for the c.s.? If so, maybe I can help you determine if the S5 would be fast enough to meet it.
The hot shoe on the s5 means you can attach an external flash to the camera. This can come in handy. Cameras have built-in flashes, but sometimes (for example, in a very large dim area like a stadium) some extra oomph is needed. With that said, it is possible to attach extra flashes to the s3 as well, you just need to buy a little extra equipment. But the s5 having a hot shoe means you can just pop a Speedlite flash right onto it. So, it can be a plus; but unless you're planning on needing it often, it's not necessarily worth the extra price. Don't get me wrong; hot shoes are fantastic (you will see them on DSLRs and all the high end cameras, and I love using external flashes) but whether or not it's worth it to you depends on how often you think you'll need a very powerful flash.
And I'll add here that the s3's built-in flash is pretty good, anyhow.
I think this could go a few different ways in terms of what camera you should get. My two cents: if I were you, I would probably be buying the s3 right now. I think that from all I've heard about the s5, it has a few advantages to it (hot shoe, larger LCD), but the speed issue is there to be considered, and to me, the advantages aren't large enough to justify the difference in price (and the loss of speed in continuous mode). That's my opinion; I personally think the s3 is a nice all-around camera and would suit you well.
Here's the devil's advocate: Although we've gotten onto Canon, there are other brands and options out there that are comparable. It sounds like you do need something with some power (not just a little point and shoot), you do need zoom, and you do need speed. Do you want me to link you to some other possibles, or are you pretty convinced that you want to go Canon? I'm a huge Canon fan myself but I wouldn't mind at all pointing you to some other brands/ models to make a true comparison!
Oh one more thing. does the s5 have the capabilities of more zoom with an added lens? Can the s3 do that too?
Thanks
In terms of other brands, you're right on the H7, the memory cards can get expensive and are less convenient than the ones for the Canon. The touch screen is kind of a pain for some people too- neat function, but can get covered with fingerprints. If I pointed you towards another brand, it would probably be one of the Fuji ultra zooms. Although those will also have the same issue with memory cards as the Sony, so if that's a factor for you, again, Canon may be best here.
Movie modes in the s3 and s5 are different from each other, and I think this is one area where the s5 did a good job. s5 offers Face Detection technology in movies, which can recognize and focus on human faces automatically, and it can also record longer videos than the s3. If you had a large enough memory card, you could record a 32 minute video where the s3 would only give you 8 minutes on the same card. There may be a tiny reduction in quality of the video with a length like that, but nothing you'd notice.
One caution on that though: if the thought of recording a 32 minute video is exciting, you might want to consider whether you really want your camera to do that or if you'd rather use a separate video camera (higher quality) for clips of that length! It is really up to you, and it'll depend on what you record and how long it usually is. But yeah, I think s5 movies= better.
For the s3 to have a separate flash, you'd need to purchase what's called a slave flash/ bracket. It's complex, but basically because the flash can't hook directly to the camera via a hot shoe, you have to buy a 'bracket' as well that fits around the camera and plugs into it somewhere else, often the tripod hole, and has its own trigger. Basically it's like attaching a totally separate functioning unit (the flash) to the camera and having them work together. Not as handy as a Speedlite and not as cheap, but they do still work if you really want one. Here are some links about them:
<a href="photography-on-the.net/foru... with an S3</a>
<a href="buy.com/prod/Canon_HF_DC1_H... flash for sale</a>
Hmm, what else? The ISO on the s5 goes up to 1600, not 3200, as far as I know; but that is still higher than the s3, which goes up to 800 I believe. But that isn't something to get too excited about, because here's what it is: the ISO is kind of like film speed on a regular camera. You know how you can use 100 speed film outdoors in the sunshine, but if you want to shoot inside, you use something like 400 speed film? ISO does the same thing, more or less. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the shot is going to be to light, thus a higher ISO is good for shooting in dark conditions. But, on these cameras as well as on almost all digitals, an ISO of 1600 is going to be REALLY, really grainy. Being able to capture light indoors means you sacrifice some image quality, and although in theory a sensitivity of 1600 is nice, you would probably almost never use it because the photos would be unusable. The highest ISO I try to use in any condition is 800, which is grainy enough as it is; so the s5 offering the option of 1600 is likely an option you wouldn't use anyhow.
Both cameras can take optional lenses, so no tie breaker there. =)
I hope that helps. Let me know how you're thinking re: s3 vs. s5. And I can definitely help you find a 'teenager' camera, but what do you mean by decent zoom? Finding something pocket-sized with a good zoom can sometimes be tricky, as the longer the zoom the larger the camera.
On the one hand, the s3 is cheaper, has a better continuous mode, and has many of the same functions as the s5 for less $. On the other, the s5 has the better movie mode and the hot shoe. But if you use a camcorder anyhow and won't use external flash much, then those improvements may be negligible. And the faster continuous mode of the s3 might be nice for you.
Here are a few links to people discussing this same decision, maybe some of their opinions will sway you:
forums.dpreview.com/forums/...
photographyboard.net/forums...
forums.dpreview.com/forums/...
For your other camera, I can't think of any that quite fit your criteria. The Canon G7 has the zoom and pixels you want but is quite a bit above the price range you gave, and it's pretty bulky too. The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) may be pretty close, although it's somewhat pricier than what you mentioned, it does have the zoom and pixels and is nice and small. Read the user reviews on that one, though; the major thing to beware of is that that camera has a serious issue with lag time between photos if you are using the flash.
If that doesn't work, maybe you can compromise a little and go for something like the new A570 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the A550 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), (4x zoom). Is a smaller zoom acceptable, or would you rather pay more/ have a larger camera for the full 6x?
I'll check the other discussions too. Once again , thank you, thank you!
Let me know if you have further questions, always happy to help. And let me know what you decide on for either camera. I'm curious now! =)
The 8mp is also causing some people to grumble because of the fact that it has the same size image sensor as the S3, which only has 6mp. I think this is probably what you saw that said something didn't change, they were referring to the sensor size. For best image quality, a large amount of pixels should go with a larger sensor. Think of it this way: the pixels are stored on the sensor. The more pixels you try to cram onto that sensor, the less improvement those pixels are going to offer to the image quality, as the pixels don't like to be crammed all into one small space. So the S3 and the S5 having the same size sensor means that the S5 has more 'cramming' going on. Many people (me included) believe that manufacturers do this as a sort of cheap upgrade. They can market a camera with tons of megapixels, but if they don't bother to upgrade the sensor, it won't give you that great of an image. I don't necessarily think that's what's happening with the S5- 8mp on a 1/2.5 sensor isn't THAT bad, and I don't see Canon as the type to pixel-cram for marketing purposes- but that is why people are complaining. If I were you, I wouldn't use those two extra mp as a deciding factor between the cams.
1.Hot shoe/external flash..would it be used?
2. face detection? Is this really a factor?
3. 2 mp is not significant
4. 1/2 " bigger screen-no biggie
5.iso 1600 ( not important)
6.:( Slower continuous mode.
7. better movies
8. 2 more shooting modes. no biggie?
9. I also read that the s5 camera itself is a little bigger than s3....not as easy to hold??
So as far as I can tell bottom line...would I use the hot shoe? Is that worth the extra money?
Hmm.....If I could wait for real reviews of normal everyday peeps once they have them in hand, I would...but I really need this camera for a trip in 2 weeks. Thinking on it a little more.
Thanks Brenda, you continue to be a big help.
I believe that more pixels crammed within a sensor of the same size than less pixels will improve image quality because image pixels will be smaller - that is less grainy. Though naked eyes may be unable to see the difference between 6Mp and 8Mp without magnification it should make a big difference when printing or projecting in large size. Just imagine two 15 inch LCDs one with 640 x 480 pixels and another 1024 x 768 pixels. They have same size but the picture resolution is quite different.
Lisa, sounds like you've been researching also.
Any advice on which way to go...s5,s3? Maybe waiting for user reviews would be the best answer...although I too have a trip coming up.
Thanks again.
"I think that from all I've heard about the s5, it has a few advantages to it (hot shoe, larger LCD), but the speed issue is there to be considered, and to me, the advantages aren't large enough to justify the difference in price"
Guess if the LCD is a major factor, i.e. if the menus are hard to see on the smaller screen, then that may be a larger issue for you and might lean you towards the S5. Lots of people are really pleased by it, and that .5 inches does make quite a bit of difference if you rely on the LCD a lot!
Not quite. The issue with more pixels on a small sensor means that the pixels will be smaller, as you've said, but smaller pixels actually leads to more grain, not less.
Smaller pixels have a lower dynamic range and less volume, thus less photon capacity and a weaker light signal, resulting in noisier photos. Here's a good explanation of how this works:
cambridgeincolour.com/tutor...
another one:
outbackphoto.com/dp_essenti...
I think what you may be getting at, though, is the fact that an enlargement made from the S5, with more pixels and the same sensor, may be better than one from the S3 because more pixels means that the noise that DOES exist will be 'enlarged less' since there are more pixels to use. And that's true (see the end paragraph of that first article I linked for a better explanation of that, I am not doing a very good job of explaining it).
I think advanced photographers who expected a better upgrade from Canon are the ones complaining about this. In my opinion, the average shooter will not notice much image quality difference between these cameras either way.
I just ordered the s3. Thanks for all of your help. If I could have waited longer, I maybe would have, but I know that the s3 is an excellent camera and I'm sure that I'll be happy with it.
Have a great summer!
Now I need some battery and memory card advice. Size, write speed, battery charger and battery brand....the best bang for my buck. :)
Thanks
OK. Accessories! This camera takes SD cards, and it can also take SDHC, which are the 'high capacity' SD cards. That means you can buy the huge 4 and 8gb cards if you wanted to. Personally, I wouldn't, just because if you have a memory card error, you could lose all your photos in one fell swoop. I usually use a few slightly smaller cards just as a precaution (although, for all the problems people have, I should note that I've personally never had a memory card error, so don't be too scared of that happening as long as you follow all the directions). I'd recommend a 4gb as the absolute largest if you really want a big card; your best bet would be to buy a couple of 1gb or 2gb cards. Brand doesn't matter much; I usually use Sandisk or Kingston, but as long as it's an SD card, you'll be OK. As far as speed goes, this camera can take the high speed cards (60x or higher), so that's really up to you as well. The main areas you'd see a benefit is going to be in the time between shots (it will probably be ready for the next shot a little quicker) and in shooting video. High speed cards are a good investment if you're at all impatient, but they're not absolutely necessary. Let me know if you need links to places to buy these items.
Batteries= this camera uses AA batteries. What I always do with cameras that use AAs is I purchase rechargeable NiMH AAs, along with a charger. You can buy these anywhere (even, like, Walmart), and the batteries plus charger will probably run between 20 and 30 bucks. Mine are Energizer, so brand doesn't really matter, although you can buy the ones made by Canon (<a href="amazon.com/Canon-CBK4-300-B... if you'd like. I think the life you'll get out of either one will be comparable. I would recommend, though, if you're going on vacation, buying two sets of the batteries and one charger, so that you can still be shooting while one set of batteries charges. You should be happy with the battery life on these. If you need exact numbers or anything on how long you can expect them to last let me know and I'll look into it.
Let me know if that helps!
Does that help?... It helps TREMENDOUSLY! Thank you...I sure hope you're getting paid for this advice! LOL. Once again, thanks! What i-net provider would you recommend? I'm sure I'll hit Walmart too, but if you know a good I-net with fast cheap shipping, let me know!
Thanks again!
I have been thinking about the resolution issue for awhile. If one takes a pixel and divides it into quadrants, that would be the same as going from a 2MP sensor to an 8MP sensor, in the same x-y space.
Now the pixels on the given 2MP are huge (compared to the 8MP version), and therefore would be more accurate at determining the intensity and color of the light. But the smaller pixels would be [i]mostly[/b] accurate as well--due to ISO testing that is designed to give minimum threshholds.
So even if the 8MP pixels are only accurate 75% of the time, one still gains an increase in resolution.
You are exactly right in terms of resolution. It's the loss of size in pixels that is the kicker in my opinion. It isn't just a loss in accuracy in determining the dynamic range and light, it's a loss in ability to handle them. Smaller pixel= less light gathering area= weaker light signal= more 'signal to noise ratio'= noisier photo. Smaller pixel also= less dynamic range= less ability to hold photons= less range of color before becoming totally black or white. All of those things degrade quality, so that's where people have issues with 'pixel cramming.'
But as I said, at this level (going from 6 to 8) it's really negligible. In the sample you gave, the cramming of 8 megapixels onto the same sensor as a 2 megapixel would be a serious loss of quality (I know you were just using it as an example, though). All of this is why in spite of it all DSLRs have larger sensors than simple point & shoots.
I think we are sort-of covering two issues here as well. But basically, in my opinion the main issue for quality is the interplay of the sensor and the lenses, so if a camera can balance those skillfully then I don't mind how many megapixels they want (or don't want) to give me!
Accessories question:
How are the Lexar mem cards...lexar platinum II......ALSO, can you take a mem card out of an hp camera and use it in canon? Would you have to re-format or are they just interchangeable?
I have an S3 in the house and I'm struggling with the 2.0 LCD versus the larger 2.5 LCD on the S5 (which I haven't seen yet) -- but the timelapse thing really irritates me. I'm a gardener, I need timelapse that goes for hours. And I gather that the equally mysterious downgrade in burst speed between the S3 and the S5 is a sore point with other buyers; my partner, when I told him about this, was startled and not at all pleased. So if I can find a way to live with the S3's small screen.... *sigh*
And just hope that someday, Canon deigns to combine the S3's timelapse and burst speed, the S5's 8mpx and hotshoe, and Sony's fine 3.0" LCD into one camera... maybe 15X... and what else should we wish for, a bigger sensor (chip?) to do better processing? RAW ability? And call it all the S7 or whatever, and stick to a $450 US price point... yeah! Right! :)
The Olympus 550UZ still has timelapse, but I have other reasons for not wanting that one. In this summer's generation of newultrazooms, the Olympus 550UZ is the ---only--- one (that I know of) with genuine timelapse ability, now that Canon's essentially dropped it.
Lexars seem fine as long as they're the right type (SD obviously); I've used them in the past with no problems, although not as often as I've used Sandisk. But they're plenty reputable.
Switching the card from one camera to another, even if they're the SAME brand, often means you have to reformat. So be careful about that, since if you DO reformat it will erase the card. Best to have separate cards for each camera if possible to avoid any weird errors/ lost photos.
For what it's worth, you pretty much hit the nail on the head. While personally I can take or leave a large LCD, but there are plenty of shooters who rely on a good-sized one, and thus there are plenty of people who can't understand why the S5 had to be 'downgraded' in so many ways. My main point of interest on the S5 was the hot shoe, which I thought was awesome- but what with all the other issues cropping up, if I were to purchase I'd still head towards an S3 myself. Not that the S5 is bad, it just truly depends on what you want from a camera, but I think lots of S3 fans were expecting the next one to be, well, different than it was.
It'll be interesting to see what comes next.
Richio and Nancy, the S5 and the S3 both stop at 12X but I think most reviewers have been using "anything past 10X" as their superzoom definition.
Brenda, O Wise One, do you happen to know if the S5 has a remote shutter capability that does NOT involve hooking up a laptop between you and the camera? The S1 had a remote shutter; the S3 does not, except for some weird laptop setup, which strikes me as useless.
If not, then is it possible at all to raise the performance by hackers or other third party people, or is it really running at its peak performance?
The PowerShot S5 IS comes bundled with the following Canon Software:
RemoteCapture Task 1.7 (Windows and Macintosh) for PC controlled remote shooting.
So i would guess theres no remote shooting option without PC. At least i didnt see it in the article even in the S5 accessories section.
Perhaps the degradation is due to the 'face detection' computations/focusing as well as the extra computing needed to transfer the extra pixels from the sensor to the memory card. Logically, turning down the compression factor (to use less compression but more storage) should help the throughput, since the compression logarithm also eats up computing cycles.
Thirdly, turn off the LCD. Geesh, that's just one more job that eats up the time-between-shots. QUESTION: Do these labs that test these cameras use ideal parameters, or just everymans-everyday settings?
Rich
About the whole cramming in 2mb more pixels. Are the 8mb of pixels physically on the LCD? Where I'm going is, if you adjust the image size down on the S5, are less pixels being generated on the LCD so they are bigger and more responsive (whatever was said above), or are just less pixels on the LCD being used? So by downgrading image size onthe S5 would you get a better quality picure?
I've also heard the S3 suffers many quality issues. Has anybody else heard that? -Thanks
When making photos with smaller resolution, one simply can't ignore pixels unless one is going from say, 8mp to 2mp (unlikely). To keep the same aspect ratio on a strictly "use 'em or lose 'em" basis, you would have to use the square root of the original megapixels.
Hence apparently there are algorithms in place to make a more modest reduction in the number of megapixels emplyed. Such computations involve averaging the values of surrounding pixels. Does this increase photo quality? I assume you mean does a "dumbed-down" S5 shooting at 5mp produce better photos than a 5mp camera shooting at the full 5mp?
Interesting scenario. The resolution of the two photos in the above example obviously would be identical. The only change is the extra 3mp, theoretically "being put to good use" in the algorithm. The only possible advantage I can see from this comparison is that the 8mp camera MIGHT have an increase in the ISO rating.
Rich
RAW support and many other excellent features are provided in an excellent hack.
You can find screenshots and link to it here: Link ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... )
DIGIC III cameras propably will get their own hack someday.
Thanks to everybody!
I think the competitive Olympus 550 UZ does have RAW (as well as actual timelapse, which the S5 dropped).
Maybe someone can make a hack for it on the S5, I don't know.
And I just read that there was some kind of limit on the amount of photo's you can take in an hour? I'm confused...is this only in "High Speed Burst" mode? or can you only take 30 picts per hour?
Hi Christa. Re: your question, it is true that the higher ISO on the S5 will help with low-light shots, but on the other hand, regardless of the camera you're going to experience SOME graininess/ noise at an ISO of 1600. I think you would be fine with either of these cameras; as everyone is discussing, the main drawback of the S5 is the lack of speed in burst mode, and unless you plan to shoot lots of continuous photos that won't really affect you. For macro shots, both are pretty comparable; and as I said, that higher ISO of the S5 is nice, but probably wouldn't result in that higher an image quality than the S3.
Regarding the limit on photos per hour, not sure of the specs on these cameras, but I can assure you that they were talking about High Speed Burst mode or something similar to that. That's the only area where a camera will experience limitations, and then they are typically related to the mem card, which can only work 'so fast' to save photos, resulting in a certain amount you can fire off in a row before the camera reaches its limit. For normal shooting, you should not experience any limit as to how many shots you can fire per hour.
forums.popphoto.com/camera/...
which is quite possibly one of the best explanations of the pixel size issue I've ever read. You might find it helpful.
I have not heard many quality complaints about the S3 physically. Maybe one person talking about how the camera body was not very tightly sealed, but definitely not complaints to the extent that we typically hear them when a camera has true build issues.
One last question(or almost)....Do you think the swivel LCD screen on the S3 breakable? that is my only other worry that it might snap off or something.....
And what about downloading pictures....when you download them are they in JPEG format or in something else? (I have a Mac, so I am always worried about compatibility issues.)
Now I don't know....I just read the reviews of the S3 on this website and they seem to say it takes noisy/bad quality pictures in all settings.... is this true of the S5 as well? And the reviews of the S3 also say using the Macro and Super Macro features are hard (you have to hold the button while shooting the photo.)... is this the same on S5? Boy am I confused now.
I think I'm the one who confused you by talking about timelapse. That's totally different from burst. First, in the high speed burst, the S3 will take 2.3 frames per second (FPS). The S5 is slower, and will take only 1.5 FPS.
Second, you can take any number of photos you want to in an hour with either camera. No limit, just as Brenda already told you.
Third, my complaint was that the S3 timelapse function is excellent -- you can take photos anywhere from one minute to sixty minutes apart, and you can take as many as you want, even setting the camera up to take time-lapse photos over several days if you want to. So far, so good.
But the S5 changed that completely and now, you can take photos only from thirty seconds to one minute apart, and you can only take ten shots -- so you can only photograph ONE five-to-ten minute span, and that's it, no more unless you set the whole thing up again. This makes it useless for a flower unfolding, for clouds across the sky, for hot-air balloon launches, for birdfeeder surveillance, etc. etc. That's the limit I was talking about.
For your other questions: The photos download from the S3 in JPG format. The tilt/swivel LCD is of course breakable if you work at it, but it's not all that fragile and the advantages are HUGE, especially if you're holding the camera up high for group shots, or down low to get pictures of plants or babies crawling, etc.
And finally, no, the macro/super macro feature is not at all hard to use. You press the button for macro, let go, and take your photo. You press the button a couple of extra seconds for super macro, let go, and take your picture. You're not trying to hold the button down while taking the picture.
You're welcome. I should clarify a little: any graininess at the high ISO isn't really a feature of the S5, but of digital cameras in general. Most tend to get grainy at high numbers, and it's my opinion that, except for in very select situations, you can get by shooting almost ANYTHING with an ISO of 800 or under. That higher ISO might come in handy at certain times, but I don't think it's necessarily a make-or-break reason to buy the camera, since as I said, the picture quality up there probably won't be very good. What's more, you mentioned shooting moon and star scapes. Shooting those is a little different than shooting basic low light shots, and in fact it's recommended that you NOT crank the ISO when shooting the night sky (which gives off a certain amount of its own light)- so ISO 800 or lower would probably do the trick very nicely anyhow. Shoot at the lowest possible ISO for things like that. The S3 should do it.
I have not heard about the swivel LCD on the S3 being too fragile. Usually if something breaks a lot on a certain cam we're the first to hear about it, and so far, no complaints. Certainly it can be broken, but I think if you're reasonably gentle you should be just fine.
As for your last question, I think camera reviews are an EXCELLENT way to go about purchasing a camera. If everyone who owns it is complaining about a certain problem, you can reasonably expect that this problem really does exist and avoid the camera. (Just look at some of the ones on this site that have gotten Fs). On the other hand, you have to be careful sometimes, because everyone comes from a different place when they write reviews. Some people who use the S3 are expecting the photos to be DSLR-quality, and they are mildly disappointed, because it doesn't have that power. Others are using it in place of a point & shoot and they're awed by how great it is. So the reviews sort of depend on the reviewer. Something like grain is tricky, too... those people who review it as being grainy may very well just not know how to use it! I've had plenty of questions from people who claimed that cameras like the S3 gave them bad photos, and it turned out to be a case of needing to adjust the settings, take it off Auto mode and do some experimenting. I can honestly tell you that considering its image processor, its mechanisms, and the samples I've seen, both the S3 and the S5 are capable of excellent, grain-free photos. It's all in knowing how to use it. Canon is (in my opinion) one of the most grain-free producers of cameras on the market, and these are no exception.
Here are some debates for you to read over that might help:
photography-on-the.net/foru...
forums.dpreview.com/forums/...
As far as pressing down the button for Macro, I am almost sure you don't have to hold the button while shooting. What you do have to do is press the button in order to access the mode (you hold it slightly longer to get into Super Macro), and perhaps while the camera focuses. That act of having to hold it down to get to Super Macro might be what people are complaining about. According to <a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... review</a>, the button "pressed once" activates Macro, and held down enables Super Macro. I'd imagine lots more complaints if you had to hold it while you shot!
Let me know if any of this helps at all!
PS love all the posts it really helps us beginners.
From everything I'm hearing / reading. (And I think I've read every review and comparison on the internet) It sounds like it makes sense to get the S3 and wait for a better upgrade past the S5. The S5 just isn't that much better yet. It has the enhancement groundworks for being much better, it just needs refining of those enhancements it has over the S3 to make it a worthwhile superior choice. In my humble opinion. Thanks everyone.
Anyway here is what finally convinced me to go for the S3:
"I haven't really had a huge problem with noise. The s3 has an ISO range of 80 to "Hi" [which I think they said was supposed to be 800]. I do start getting some bothersome noise at around ISO 400, but the vast majority of that can be controlled in NeatImage pretty reasonably. I use ISO 80 almost all of the time [with zero noise], and up to ISO 200 when I really need to. With the lens capable of f/2.7, you can use ISO 80 handheld in most situations with no problems.
The differences between the S3 and S5 are:
S5 has higher resolution [again, the sensors are the same size, so you're likely going to get more noise w/ the s5]
S5 has higher ISO - up to ISO 1600; I feel pretty confident saying that you won't get a useable image at that ISO, anyway.
S5 has the face detection; that could be important if you do a lot of portraits.
S5 has capability of external flash use; that could also be important if you do a lot of flash photography - I personally don't.
S5 has 1/2" larger LCD screen; not a huge deal to me, either
S5 is slightly heavier and slightly larger.
Otherwise, they are identical. I really see no reason for my own personal use that I would need/want the S5 over the S3 that I have. I don't do much pos-processing at all on my photos because, having used film since I was a kid, I want to get it right the first time around. I don't enjoy sitting in photoshop for extended periods of time making things look better. Sometimes it's fun, but mostly I'd rather be out shooting. ;) I do the bare minimum when I have to; levels, some color balance, and converting to black and white when I think the photo would benefit from that. I don't even do very much cropping in post-process; most of the frames I've shot are as-seen."
Now I just have to save the $$ and I can order. :D
Thanks for reading .....
Question: Do you know how well the eneloops keep their charge in a hot car? I like to keep a camera handy; sometimes I have to (or accidentally) leave a camera in the car in the sun. I would love to find a battery that keeps its charge even in a hot car.
I don't have any experience with the eneloops in a hot car, however, they are listed as being much better than NiMH with weather extremes. I just ordered an 8-pack for my external flash unit. As a backup, I keep a set of CR-V3 lithium batteries with me (they have a really long shelf life). I'm still using the original set (over 2 years) that came with my Pentax camera.
you can now use the s3 as a time lapse camera with almost any interval you want. you can also save pics in RAW format. CHDK adds a battery meter and a really cool color histogram. another fine hack upgrade is control of the manual focus via the zoom lever vs using the less than ergonomic 4 way switch.
the s5 hasn't been hacked because it has the digic 3 processor.
oh yeah the hack also includes a clock, two fun games, a text reader and the option to write your own picture taking scripts to upload to the s3.
say you want the camera to take a pic every 52 seconds at a target 42 ft away with a 1/60 @f 4.0 iso 200 setting for total of 232 pics at M resolution. its easy to do.
with the s5 or any other camera you would need an attached laptop.
I'd been looking info last month, i wnat to change my LUMIX FZ-7 and i get so confused... Like kik says, "You get more info, you get deeper and sometimes, you get more confused"
Until last month i was a click to get a S3, when i found the S5, i guess that i get similar doubts like a lot of photo enthusiats that i read about.
OK, i need to thank to BrendaP for the GREAT and no scarce comments. Definitly those comments and answers are a important factor to my choice.
Thanks goes as well to LisaSmall who answer and explained the "Time lapse" thing, that feature seems awesome =)
on Summary, for my, for my hobbie related needs, the S3 is cheaper and have better features that the S5, except the HotShoe and 2.5"LCD (i'm gonna miss the 3" LUMIX Screen).
Thks again
There are a lot of great hi-zoom cameras on the market now. I've always liked Fuji cameras, even though I'm using a Pentax dSLR now. The Fuji FinePix S700 offers a budget-conscious alternative to existing megazoom cameras. It's a fairly small camera that packs a 10x optical zoom lens and a 7.1 MP sensor. With full manual control over all shooting settings as well as full auto, you can take advantage of the S700's wide ISO and shutter speed ranges to ensure you get sharp, clean images. You can find one for as low as $195 at www.buydig.com Hope this helps a little. I'm sure there are many other opinions out there, but it will be hard to beat this Fuji on price and quality.
The Kodak Z712 IS is a good option too, you can find it on Amazon (U$229). The Z712 has fast performance, point-and-shoot flexibility, 2.5"LCD, EVF, 12X (36-432 mm) Optical Lens (With I.S.), 7MP,.... etc
I think that is a good choice too ;)
I like the fact that the A710 has the IS function, and it does fit in my pocket. It's a bit bulky in the pocket, but I don't think the A630-640 would fit in a pocket.
If you go with the A640, you get the extra MP---10 megapixels instead of 7 on the A710. That is a nice boost, can't hurt. And unless there is a significant savings of more than $50, I think I would choose the A640 over the A630. Between those and the A710?? Depends on how you like the size and feel of each. Check them out at a store, if you haven't already.
On teh A710, there are some interesting software controls, such as swapping colors after a photo is taken. For example, you can take a photo of a green car, and turn it red, in the camera. It also shoots sepia, and b&w.
Actually, the photo editors offer so much control now, you can filter and adjust all you want, (except for polarization). :)
It's got a better zoom (6x vs. 4x).
It's got a better macro mode (1cm vs. 5cm focal range).
User reviews are better (I tend to trust those who've had a lot of experience with the cameras in question).
I don't feel like the newer DIGIC version and slightly higher ISO (high ISO is unusable in most cases anyway) compensate for the better shooting options the A710 provides.
That said, the A570 is a good deal cheaper, so...
The A520 photo was a 4-megapixel. I was able to blow that up to 11x14 with no pixellation. In fact, I sold the photo at an art show.
So the A710, with a 7.1 MP photo and better lens, I would think allow you to go to a 16x20 with no problem, and of course possibly larger.
The math: 11x14 = 154. 16x20 = 320. 320/154 = 2.07 (the 16x20 is about twice as large as the 11x14). While the 7.1 MP is not quite as twice as much as the 4 MP, the better lens would surely make up the difference there.
It isn't a must, but some people really like it, especially those who are very used to film cameras and thus used to the viewfinder way of shooting. It is a really nice option to have, but you can survive without it. And the LCD of any cam will wash out somewhat in sunlight. I don't own any digitals with optical viewfinders, and I have in the past taped a piece of cardboard in a sort-of dome shape over the top of the camera to prevent LCD wash-out in sun. It's pretty ghetto, but it works.
quite honestly, (I have four digitals w/viewfinders) --- the viewfinders made in the last ten years are not Leica-quality. The views in these modern viewfinders vary significantly from what will show up on the photographs.
However, the viewfinders are still helpful in the bright sun. At least you will be able to follow a running dog or child, or at least get the group of people in the center of the photo. The thing is, you have to allow extra space around the photo (to ensure that you haven't cut something off) ---and then just crop the photo later if needed with an editor.
E-mail? 2MP and a mediocre lens is fine.
4x6 snapshots or a slide show on the PC or TV? 3-4MP and a medium grade lens is OK.
5x7's, 8x10's, 11x14, or 16x20 framed prints? Or you are a serious photographer, and might want to super-crop a photo because you didn't get close enough to the subject? Well, THAT's different. I once took a great photo with my Canon A520 (4MP) and had a shop blow it up to 11x14. Guess what? I couldn't see any pixels (and I sold the print at a show). But I'm not sure if I could have done the same enlargement with a 4MP photo and a so-so lens.
I personally think that Canon makes the best lenses, although Leica, Nikon and Olympus are close seconds.
I can't speak for the Sony lenses. But I do believe that the Panasonic Lumix cameras use Leica lenses. You can compare photos taken with these three cameras at imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM
Rich
I just got the fuji S700 7.1mp, with 10X zoom and I love it! I am an inexperienced photographer, but every picture I have taken are brilliant. I got a 747 on take-off, actually I got 3 images. I have two nephews, and although you better not take your eye off of them for a second, they are still not as fast as a 747. The S700 is easy to learn, to use, and it's versatility is mind-boggeling. Good luck!
Kristie
Affected products:
- Camcorders: ZR60, ZR65 MC, ZR70 MC, ZR80, ZR85, ZR90, ELURA 40 MC, ELURA 50
- Digital Cameras A60, A70, A75, A300, A310, S230, SD100, SD110, A40(*), A80(*), A85(*), A95(*), S1 IS(*), S60(*), S200(*), S330(*), S400(*), S410(*), S500(*)
Malfunction:
It has been confirmed that the connecting parts of the internal wiring of the CCD used in affected products may become disconnected, especially if the affected products are stored or used in high-temperature and high-humidity environments. If this occurs, the signal is not output from the CCD normally in Shooting Mode, which may cause a distorted image or the absence of an image. This malfunction can be confirmed on the LCD monitor screen during shooting. The same malfunction also appears on the recorded image.
Canon's Response:
Effective immediately, and regardless of warranty status, Canon will repair, free of charge, the products listed above exhibiting the above-mentioned malfunction if Canon determines that the malfunction is caused by the CCD image sensor. Canon will also cover the cost of shipping and handling in connection with this repair.
U.S. residents are kindly directed to contact the Canon Customer Support Center for further assistance at 1-800-828-4040. Support hours are Monday thru Friday - 8:00 AM to 12:00 midnight; and Saturday 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM (all times EST). Alternatively, if electronic support is preferred, please send your email to carecenter@cits.canon.com
It seems to me you may be suffering from something very similar and I would make that case.
This sounds identical to the Sony camcorder problem I had. The Sony was purchased in 2004, probably in the same time frame as these (older) models from Canon.
Rich
Nicholas, I wouldn't mentioned that to Canon. You don't want to give them something that will allow them to avoid responsibility by putting the blame somewhere else.
And, even though you think you've put in fresh batteries, underpowered batteries are just as bad. At the very least, make sure you are using Alkalines. Even better, batteries with a higher mAh - like around 2500mAh would satisfy the higher power requirements of your camera.
for info and batteries and supplies and all that.
James is right, you should be using hi-performance AA RECHARGEABLE batteries, not the blister-pack kind made for flashlights. So get at least 4 of these, with a good charger (see the web site above). 2000 mAh WOULD work (I have one pair I use from time to time in my A710), but the more power, the more photos. So 2300 - 2700 mAh is even better.
Have you been able to correct your camera's problem? Do you have any more information for us to work with to try and help you?
Larry
Some last longer than others of the same mah. This seems to be due to quality of the manufacturer.
I think the problem is the low voltage, not the current. A fully charged cell will work for a few minutes to 10 m. or until the voltage drop to 1.2. At his stage the cell will recover to just below 1.3v and operate for many more hours on other equipment. Using alkaline batteries is no problem, but expensive. I am about to give up on NM-Hd and try Lithium 1.5v cells, the L91, which last 5 to 7 times longer than alkaline. Maplin have them for sale at £3.99 for 4, only £1 more than alkaline.
I use a Sony Mini disc charger, which fits the socket on the Canon. It checks out at 3volts 500ma on my meter, and works for hours without getting warm. So the current doesn't seem to be the problem, but it's the voltage.
Canons own charger is rated at 2 amps, 3volts, which suggests 3volts is needed, but 500ma seems to be more than adequate in use.
Hope this helps
i dint know how to operate for video.... also need to know safe operating system
Hit FUNC SET (center of 4-way 'joystick') and scroll down to the third item on the left side of the screen. There should be a rectangle there. Then watch the bottom of the screen as you tap the right side of the 4-way button. The cursor moves sideways. You can choose a 10-second delay, a 2-second delay, or continuous shooting modes. The three new choices resemble clocks.
Then remember to focus (half way down on the shutter button) and then fully press the shutter button. The orange light on the front of the camera will flash, and this orange flashing light will flash faster as the time draws down.
Rich
You might try a camera with a Macro function. This will allow for sharper focus on your close up nature shots. I have used this function in Canon cameras and found it to work fantastically. You might try a Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has the macro function for close up shots, and it also has image stabilization, which will help reduce the effects of camera shake. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Glad we could help. Please come back with any more questions.
Andrew
Next thing I would do is reset the camera. This is a fairly easy procedure which involves either going into your setup menu and choosing "reset," holding down the menu key for 5 seconds, or, removing the batteries for a few minutes. It may be that the firmware loading got corrupted and the camera just needs to be "rebooted," which is something that turning it on/off won't accomplish. But after which, you should have the camera reset to factory default settings.
Another tip is to go to Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
Thank you! I'll try this tomorrow whn I have some time to play around with the camera.
The problem is, any flash uses X amount of current to recharge the flash capacitor. That X amount cannot be modified, if you are using this camera on AUTO mode. However, in manual mode on the A710, you can set the flash output (brightness) to Low, Medium or High. (In AUTO mode, the flash is on High and cannot be changed.)
So, a lower output (dimmer) flash would mean faster re-charging. But the Medium or Low settings might not be strong enough for the photo, depending on how far you are from the subject. For example you might have to be just 3-4 feet from the subject with the camera on Low flash.
Typically, cameras like the (compact) Powershots that have 2 batteries have weaker flashes than cameras with 4 batteries.
A more powerful flash would add to the cost of the camera, and also take even longer to re-charge.
You might consider getting better batteries and a good charger, since lower-output batteries will take longer to charge a flash---AFTER they have lost some power. IE, 2000 mAh batteries and 2700 mAh batteries should perform the same IMMEDIATELY after both have been fully charged. But then the 'time-to-charge' (recycle time) after the batteries have been in use for a short while (perhaps as little as 4-8 flash photos) will take longer and longer on the 2000 mAh batteries, as their 2700 mAh counterparts.
Check out thomasdistributing.com for batteries and chargers.
2. You may be onto something in regards to battery capacity versus instant amp output. The capacity measures how much total power is stored in the battery but doesn't tell you how quickly the battery can output that power, which is measured in amps of current not amperehours. It is certainly possible that the lower capacity battery could put out a higher amp current initially and thereby recharge the flash quicker. The battery with the higher capacity (measured in mAh) would be able to recharge MORE flashes before having to be recharged.
You have raised a very important practical issue which reminds us that you always have to give a little to get a little. There is no free lunch in engineering like there is in politics. :)
I'm not a Canon newbie nor is this my first digital. I believe it's a product flaw in the camera. I would advise anyone thinking about this model (or any of the Powershot series) to reconsider before wasting time and money. I'm in a battle with Canon right now and this A570is is going back to them. They can have it.
If you do purchase this or another in the Powershot series you would be wise to document everything and keep your receipts and pay close attention to your warranty.
Another tip is to go to Canon's website ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
It depends on the resolution u want, and the frame rate. At the standard res and 30 fps, you can get about 33 minutes on the 4GB card. At the low res AND 15 fps instead of 30 fps, you can get almost 8 hours on a 4GB card.
you can download simple guide at this link
generalmanual.com/Digital-C...
The A710 came out about September 2006, and was replaced by the A720 probably within 6 months. So your model should be between a year and a half and two years in age. Did you buy these 3 sets of batteries when u bought the camera?
Generally, the NiMH batteries have a shelf life of plus or minus 3 years*, although heavy usage might meant they wear out sooner. How many photos have u taken? Look at the upper right hand corner, in playback mode, it gives the photo number. I have taken 1590 photos with my A710, although I have spread the usage out over 5 sets of batteries, and some were bought in the past 8 -14 months as well. I have had no problem with running out of battery power prematurely.
IF the batteries are RELATIVELY new, say less than a year old, and they are of good quality** (brand name???) AND the icon is still blinking on the camera, THEN it could be the camera, but perhaps you have a bum charger. To include or eliminate the camera possibility, just buy some regular quality AA batteries, and see how they hold up (without using the flash----the flash EATS battery life). If the alkaline batteries work OK, then it must be the charger, or the batteries.
* The batteries wear out after approx. 3 years EVEN IF they are not used, the chemicals deteriorate.
** There are some really lousy no-name batteries coming out of China.
Sadly, the best solution is to simply get a high-performance battery like the Panasonic Oxyride Extreme. When new it puts out 1.7 volts. This makes the camera run MUCH faster - especially for flash recharge.
Why don't the make the camera so it works well with the rechargeable cells? Who knows. It makes running these cameras expensive.
Because standard AA batteries, even lithiums, have less wattage than the NiMH batteries.
Any help?
Thanks
Also try resetting the camera and updating the firmware.
Wondered what your SN is? Why? Well, I have had no problem with the A710, and never ever did a firmware update. So I doubt that the firmware is the problem.
Thanks for the comment...
Are U saying that the PC program displays that??? Sounds like your PC program is corrupted.
In fact, is it possible that the problems U described in your first question are on the PC monitor? I had assumed that U meant the camera wouldn't play back; IE on the camera's LCD screen.
If perchance ALL of these issues are PC-related, then it most definitely sounds like your PC "picture importing program"* is corrupted.
* such as the Canon software that came with the camera, or the Windows Camera/Scanner program, or Photoshop....etc.
There were some suggestion that this could be the film reviewer function of the camera being turn on accidentally and causing it to edit the setting and info on its own. Is this true and how do we turn this off?
I wish I could sent you all a image to demonstrate what I had say.
Thanks everyone!
It is still able to playback the previous video taken but not the new one I took. Any one had a similar problem...?
Also, try resetting the camera and updating your firmware. Lastly, clean your battery contacts with a pencil eraser. This will remove any dirt or grime which may have been transferred and as such, is obscuring battery contact. If all that doesn't work, you may need to send it in for repair.
If that doesn't help, then your best bet is to send it in to Canon for a repair estimate. Another place to get an estimate on is Darn Toothy Sam ( darntoothysam.com/ ). They do very affordable camera repair.