Canon SD870 IS - Digital Camera Review
Posted on 11/14/2007
See what we thought of Canon's all-new stylish ultracompact, the Canon Powershot SD870 IS. We've given it a once over so you can see how it performs. By Administrator
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Specifications: 8 megapixels; 3.8x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom, 28mm wide-angle lens; Movie mode with sound; JPEG file format; Lens-shift image stabilization; Auto focus; Auto exposure; ISO 80-1600; 3.0-inch LCD display; Secure Digital memory (32MB card included); Lithium-ion battery Retail Price: $399, Price Through Our Merchants: |
Summary Judgment
Superior Image Quality: Every photo resonates with vibrant colors and pitch-perfect clarity.
Excellent Menus and Controls: The inclusion of a touch-sensitive navigation wheel allows easy access to the well-designed menus and settings.
Large, Vivid LCD Display: The bright and helpful LCD screen is easy-to-use in sunlight and completely makes up for the absence of an optical viewfinder.
Click to enlarge
Great Image Quality
I took the Canon SD870 IS out for a spin, and generally I was impressed with what I saw. The images were vibrant and colorful, and the 8-megapixel sensor allowed for an excellent level of detail. The mantra of this camera seems to be to make everything about it as easy and approachable as possible. For more advanced users who want to mess around with manual controls, this could be frustrating.
The SD870's "Manual" mode only allows you to adjust a few minor aspects of the shot, such as ISO sensitivity. This is a simple, point-and-shoot camera in an ultracompact's body, and for a lot of people that's going to be a major selling point.
As you can see from the sample photos on the right hand side of the screen, the SD870 IS is a very capable camera, and in my opinion, definitely satisfies when it comes to straightforward, easy operation. The camera's start-up time is blindingly fast, and the lag between shots is very short.
Right out of the box, this camera is ready to provide excellent photographs with minimal fuss.
Image Stabilization and 3.8x Optical Zoom
Like all of Canon's newer models, the SD870 IS features Image Stabilization, and it's about time. For years, Panasonic had been well ahead of the curve in making their Mega O.I.S. a standard feature on almost all their cameras.
Image Stabilization is important, especially in ultracompacts like the SD870 IS, because their small size makes them more susceptible to tiny twitches and tremors in your hand. While you may not notice them when you're taking a picture, the blurring will be apparent in your final photo.
The SD870's Image Stabilization performs well, and definitely takes the edge off of the images, especially when the 3.8x optical zoom is engaged. The 3.8x optical zoom is a little extra boost than the average magnification available in a camera of this size. It's also a wide-angle zoom, capturing wider and more inclusive long-range shots.
3.0-inch LCD Display
Some reviewers feel that the lack of an optical viewfinder is a flaw in really tiny ultracompact cameras, but that's not something I can agree with. Having used small cameras that do have viewfinders, I've found them unhelpful and frustrating. I can see why they would be good to have if your camera's LCD was only 1 or 2 inches big, but we're at least two years past that point now. 2.5 to 3-inches is the standard these days.
If you're one of those people who isn't convinced that the optical viewfinder is obsolete, the SD870 IS is a camera that could change your mind. The large, 3-inch LCD is a pleasure to use, and serves well even in bright-light situations. Canon increasingly relies on the LCD as a means to modify the camera's settings (which the next section will discuss), and by "virtualizing" the controls instead of relying on knobs and dials, cameras can be smaller and more efficient.
The SD870 IS is a great example of how larger LCDs are becoming not only standard, but essential in modern digital photography.
Modern Controls and Menus
Canon has put great effort into the camera's controls and menu system, introducing more modern, less clunky interfaces. The round navigation wheel on the back is both a four-direction pad and a touch-sensitive scroll wheel, similar to the controls of an iPod. When you move your finger to each of the four directions, a virtual navigation wheel appears on the LCD, highlighting the button which your finger is hovering on. That's helpful for people who have to struggle to discern the tiny icons and their meanings on the back of the camera.
When it's time to change modes, say from 'auto' to 'panoramic stitch assist,' that's when the user can sweep their finger around the wheel like an iPod, and the virtual mode selector appears on the screen. It's a big improvement from clunky knobs that cluttered up the camera, and makes the most of the camera's excellent LCD display.
Canon Powershot SD870 IS Comments & Questions (write your own!)
3" Screen
There may be other features, but those two are most notable.
I want something with a great zoom, large LCD screen and something that hold a lot of memory and is easy to transfer to the computer.
Similarly, the SD870 looks to be the new SD800IS. It has the same size CCD as the SD800IS, but now with more megapixels. Given the fact people complained about the SD800IS's poor low-light performance (I own the SD800IS and love it, but that's what people are saying, anyway), and I'd guess the SD870IS isn't much of an improvement. It has slower continuous shooting than the SD800IS as well. It did opt for a higher resolution LCD (3" vs. the SD800IS's 2.5"), which to me just means faster battery drain. Considering the marginal megapixel upgrade, I don't think this camera will be that much better than the SD800IS for the money.
So I'll break it down into three categories for you:
1.) Do you want wide-angle (28mm)? If so, we're looking at the SD870IS or SD800IS, and my opinion is the SD800IS will be completely fine (unless you need the latest-and-greatest and don't mind spending the money, of course)
2.) Do you like spending more money for proprietary memory formats like Sony Duo sticks? And paying for brand name and style more than performance? If so, get the T100. (Heck, if you like spending more money, pounce on the T200 while you're at it).
3.) Do you not care about wide-angle, and just want a point and shoot camera that you know will take great pictures without fussing over anything manual? If so, then get the SD850. It's got enough options to fuss about later if you want to.
Specs include:
* 8 megapixels
* 3.8x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom, 28mm wide-angle lens
* Movie mode with sound
* JPEG file format
* Lens-shift image stabilization
* Auto focus
* Auto and manual exposure
* ISO 80-1600
* 3.0-inch LCD display
* Secure Digital memory (32MB card included)
* Lithium-ion battery
According to CNET ( reviews.cnet.com/digital-ca... ):
The good: Impressive performance and image quality; optical image stabilization; face detection.
The bad: No manual exposure controls; no optical viewfinder.
The bottom line: While the Canon PowerShot SD870 IS doesn't have an optical viewfinder or manual exposure controls, it captures beautiful images with its wide, 3.8x optical zoom lens and ranks among the top compact cameras we've seen.
I have the new Windows Vista operating system but there is no mention of compatibility with the Canon 870 D IS. Where can i verify it is compatible? Thanks Bob S
And sometimes, you can try using the XP drivers if there isn't a driver available.
But why bother when you can use a USB card reader? It's much easier than trying to sort out crappy drivers and bloated sofware.
A card reader is about $10 and will cause your sd card to be read as a drive on the PC - NO MATTER WHAT OS YOU USE. Then it's a simple drag and drop.
The real question is, will you see a difference between the SD870IS's 28mm and the SD850IS's 35mm? And that answer is "absolutely."
You get much more at the inner zoom than the outer zoom. Plus, you can always crop (these cameras both have enough megapixels to do that) and manually zoom to what you wanted. You can always zoom in on part of the picture... you can't add in part of the picture that didn't fit in originally.
Both cameras are awesome. In fact, the only real difference is the wide-angle lens of the SD870IS, which I find to be the real plus.
But I'm leaning to what Matt says, that the results should be the same and if you're husband is trying to shake the camera, he's getting a result that isn't what he think it should be but is also inaccurate.
Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
Thanks
Of these, I like the stats of the SD870IS the best, though I haven't personally used any of them.
You can get a side-by-side comparison of their features here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ).
As you can see, all three are rated pretty well and pretty evenly by users. But what sets the SD870 IS ahead for me is the following:
1. 28mm wide angle. This will be a godsend for shooting both landscapes and crowd shots. You'll be able to capture quite a bit more with it than you would with the 35 and 36mm wides on the other models.
2. Shutter speed range is very good, better than the T200. 1/1600sec vs. 1/1000sec.
3. Macro focus range. The T200 edges it here, but only by 1cm. This is great for taking closeups of flowers and bugs and all that fun stuff.
The T200 does have the touch screen, which is very cool, but makes the camera more of a gadget and less of a... camera.
Really, I think it comes down between these two, but I lean toward the Canon.
Good luck!
Hope this helps you.
This is very good for a camera with this large of a screen, and the DIGIC III helps a little with that. Of course, this is continuous shooting without flash, so expect somewhere around the 200 picture range for normal shooting.
The lack of IS is the only reason for me to give it up and go for SD870 which is more expensive and bigger!
If it is possible that the upgrade of SD750 will have IS, I'll definitely wait for that!
If it has IS, it will definitely cost more than the SD750 does right now. And this hypothetical next-generation camera will definitely cost more than the SD750 does in the future. So either way, you'll probably have to spend more than the current price of the SD750.
I'd say go with the SD870 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the SD850 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) right now, if you really need IS.
Your old A710IS, get it fix, did you check how much it would cost to fix the problem? It just seems to me that it would be such a waste to just throw it away! and an A710IS should not be that old, since it's a relatively new model! ha! If it the lens cover does not open on it's own, it could be some accumulated dust particles in the spaces where it retracts! Try blowing it?! You could try to force open the lens cap with your finger nail or some flat object, or even try to softly knock on the lens when you switch on you camera?
I have the same question as you. Many people say that 850 has better solution for high ISO....
Moreover, I want to know that if 870 is smaller and lighter that 850?
It seems all of these point and shoot cameras have problems taking good pictures in dim light. I haven't read a review yet where one of these type of cameras performs well in dim light. If anyone knows of a camera of this type that takes good pictures in dim light situations please post it here.
Thx,
Fredd
If it were digital IS, I'd say no.
As for the differences in the two cameras, not much. They take nearly identical pictures. But the chief difference being the image stabilization of the 870IS.
Oh, and BTW - in internet parlance, USING UPPER CASE LETTERS is considered yelling and a faux pas. I figured you didn't realize this, but I thought I'd point it out.
No worries, Kimbo. We all learn about the ins and outs of the internet as we go, I did it once too. I like the Canon over the Sony. With Nikons, they're pretty evenly matched. And the price difference in this category isn't all that vast.
If you have a chance, you may want to read our Pocket Camera Guide ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It can point you in the right direction.
But in the end, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. Bring along an SD card and take some pictures with each. Then you can really make a judgement call based on how YOU take pictures! That usually sells me one way or the other.
I recently went to a trip to the Getty and most, if not all, of my shots inside the museum (no flash) came out blurry.
I am considering buying the SD870 since, for me, it is better than the sd850, can someone tell me if it is any good in low light? I read in one of the answers it isn't, but I would really want other opinions as well.
At ISO 800, noise is much more apparent and should show up in prints, but Canon does a good job of preserving some fine detail, and images show impressive shadow detail for such high sensitivity in a compact camera. Images at ISO 1,600 are very noisy with the SD870 IS, showing large, grainy noise. Most fine detail is lost, giving images a soft look, and a large portion of shadow detail goes by the wayside. Still, given that this camera has a small sensor, the results are somewhat impressive. The images may be usable for small prints, or for use at small sizes on the Web.
What you can do is keep the ISO to 400, and tweak it using the exposure compensation settings.
The good: Impressive performance and image quality; optical image stabilization; face detection.
The bottom line: While the Canon PowerShot SD870 IS doesn't have an optical viewfinder or manual exposure controls, it captures beautiful images with its wide, 3.8x optical zoom lens and ranks among the top compact cameras we've seen.
If it had that issue, it would have certainly cropped up in reviews by now. The only wrap it does have is it's lack of manual control.
I want a compact camera that will perform well in both bright and low light situations. All three have image stabilization and the zoom for the panasonic is definitely a plus, but one I am willing to forego for a better image quality. I want a wide angle lens but since most people suggest the Fuji for low light situations, I decided to put that in.
All in all, I am looking for a great all around compact camera. Pls disregard price when comparing the 3 since they are pretty much in the same price level. I am a novice and don't know pretty much about the technical stuff but I would really appreciate some help. I really want a great camera, I just don't know which one to choose. Thanks so much!
Never go for Sony cameras! Especially the point and shoot models, Sony sell their camera based on the looks and some silly gimmicky features! Not the quality of pictures taken! Only buy SONY if you want to show off the camera, and not the photo the camera takes! Somemore, the use of memory stick is double the price of the usual SD cards other cameras uses!
Overall, I do think the SD870 is better, but there are a number of differences:
- If you're familiar with Canon cameras, they traditionally have a selector wheel to set the mode. This is gone on the SD870, and is replaced with a three way switch on the top that has auto, scene, or movie modes. When the scene mode is selected, you can then select from the on screen menu the other moods (i.e. outdoor, action, etc). I like this as I tend to usually shoot in full auto mode.
- The image review is improved as well, with there being a "play" button, rather than having to set the selector wheel to play, and then turning on the camera, you can just push the button and the camera will power on and show you your images. Same thing while the camera is on - just push the button, and you're instantly viewing your images, rather than fumbling with the mode selector wheel.
- I do miss the optical viewfinder a little bit, particular when shooting in direct sunlight
- The body feels a little less sturdy. It's got a bit more plastic, which is slightly disappointing. The SD800 had a satisfying heft to it, which the 870 lacks.
As for the resolution difference, it probably doesn't matter. Check out this article for megapixel info: nytimes.com/2007/02/08/tech...
For what you're looking for, I'd take the A650IS out of the running because it's just way more than what you need, and the price isn't there. So in this order:
1.) A720IS
2.) SD870IS (remember, though, 3x optical, with wideangle... not much)
3.) SD650IS (nice camera, but expensive and exceeds your requirements by too much)
2.) Whether you have a 2.5" or 3.0" LCD is not going to scare away wildlife, for two reasons: Wildlife is generally in front of you, not looking over your shoulder, so they won't see the screen; the ability to not have to hold the camera up to your face to look through the optical viewfinder will allow you to take more versatile pictures, whether that be holding the camera near the ground to get a better picture, moving it around a tree without having to physically move your whole body, etc. You'll actually be better off with an LCD screen you can see.
3.) What's cheek stabilization? Is that a new slang-term for the stability you get by holding it against your face? If so, the optical image stabilization will let you get just as good of pictures taking pictures in an outstretched hand as it will by holding it against your face.
4.) Continuous and/or burst shooting mode on the SD850IS and SD750IS are pretty similar on both cameras. Expect about 1.6fps. That's not that fast, granted. But keep in mind you'll be lucky to find a good ultracompact that can shoot more than 2.2fps. Generally, cameras with less megapixels can shoot at faster continuous clips because less memory storage is needed for each picture.
May I suggest the Panasonic TZ3 as an optional comparison camera between these two Canon models? It has 8x optical zoom (280mm equivalent), the wideangle the SD870IS has (28mm equivalent), a nice large screen, optical image stabilization, great picture quality in adequate lighting, and rock-solid movie mode. And the burst mode can get up to 4fps!!
Shutter lag when pre-focused = <.1 seconds on the TZ3 and <.1 seconds on the TZ3 (this is the most important performance variable... and they're the same)
Shutter lag including pre-focus = .3 seconds on the TZ3 and .1 seconds on the SD870IS. Again, if you don't plan on composing your shots and just want to "shoot from the hip", the SD870IS is better. And even as such, .3 seconds is still very good.
Shot-to-shot delay w/o flash = 1.1 seconds on the TZ3 and 1.4 seconds on the SD870IS. Uh oh, TZ3 is better....
Shot-to-shot dely w/flash = 2.3-3 seconds on the TZ3 and 2.5-3.5 seconds on the SD870IS. TZ3 is better again....
Burst mode can capture up to 4fps on the TZ3 and 1.3fps on the SD870IS... wow, SD870IS can't even compare...
Continuous shooting mode is 3fps on the TZ3 and 1.3fps on the SD870IS... uh huh....
Optical zoom is 28-280mm on the TZ3 and only 28-105mm on the SD870IS. Enjoy this one....
Flash coverage is rated at 13.8 feet on the TZ3 and 13 feet on the SD870IS. Both are good.
Movie mode can achieve 1280x720 resolution at 30fps for the TZ3 and only 640x480 at 30fps for the SD870IS.
The TZ3 can be had for <$250. The SD870IS costs >$300.
I'm not one to knock the SD870IS or SD850IS. I myself have the SD800IS (the predecessor of the SD870IS) and love it. But my father has the Panasonic TZ3 and it's awesome as well. To sit there and say the TZ3 has such bad picture quality that it doesn't even qualify as a camera is ignorant and immature.
TN, I'm guessing you took a few shots from each camera and based your assumptions on improper results. You're correct, all three cameras take great outdoor, well-lit shots... what digital camera doesn't? But to say indoor shots were poor on the TZ3... these are the only types of shots I took when I used the TZ3, and they were very good. In decent light I didn't even have to use the flash, and using the flash provided good, non-harsh exposure.
Beach-global, the TZ3 is heavier than the SD870IS... it does everything the SD870IS does and more, it can't exactly weigh less. 6 oz vs. 10 oz. Quite a difference, but it makes sense when considering the only size difference is essentially a .5" added thickness on the TZ3. For a 28-280mm lens to fit inside there? Pretty amazing.
Make your decision of cameras accordingly, but don't discredit a great camera, please.
For MY PHOTOS (kids photos--need quick start up time) the Canon was better. I ended up keeping the 870 because the 28mm was amazing for indoor shots. All P&S cameras are compromises, for my needs the Canon was better.
However, in the future I will be looking out for the TZ4 or TZ5. If the indoor pic quality and overaggressive noise reduction at higher ISO's gets better, I want my LUMIX back.
A good option is the Olympus Stylus 770 SW ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is not only moisture proof, but downright water proof to a depth of 33 feet!
(a) in still image mode: maximum 3.8x optical, max 15x digital
(b) digital macro mode: max 1.3x optical, max 4.0x digital
(c) movie mode: same like (a)
I am trying to buy a SD 850 or 870. I know they are like 75 dollars or so apart
But which one should i buy.
Thanks,
Techgeek
that will suffice :-)
1. CANON POWERSHOT SX100 IS
2. CANON POWERSHOT SD 870 IS
3.CANON POWERSHOT SD 850 IS
4. SONY DSC T-100
5. SONY DSC T-200
2.) Yes
3.) Yes
4.) Yes
5.) Yes
And without knowing what you're looking for (size, price, specs, zoom, etc), I can't help you decide which camera to buy. The SX100IS is the largest of the 5, but has at least twice the zoom of any of the other 4. The SD870IS and SD850IS are nearly identical, you just need to decide if you want the 3" screen and 28mm wideangle of the SD870IS or not. Similarly, the T-200 has a huge 3.5" LCD touchscreen and a slightly longer zoom (35mm-175mm). The T-100 is basically the same camera (similar to how the SD870IS and SD850IS are nearly the same camera), but an older model, with a 3" LCD and lacking a "hi-speed" USB connector.
You'll have to make the decision from there. Unless you have specific requirements that I could use to help you narrow down other cameras. I would personally choose either choice (2) or choice (3), depending on your screen size and wideangle requirements. Unless zoom is a big deal to you... but the difference between 3x and 5x isn't much, you can crop during post processing to get the zoom you want, and any larger than a 5x zoom (except the Panasonic TZ3, which is still a great camera) will require you to jump into a whole new line of larger cameras.
1.SLEEK
2.min 5x optical zoom
3. 3" LCD
4.face detection
5.Image stabilization
6.wide angle
u have ne suggestions besids the ones i'velisted ??? i'd be glad to hear frm u !!!!
If you need anything else, please let me know. Otherwise, please take the time to mark best answer. Thanks!
I am trying to decide on which camera to choose: Canon SX100IS, Sony DSC-H3 or Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ3. I want a small camera that has zooming as well since I travel a lot and that would be handy. Any other choice out there besides those three and what is the difference in features between them? I love small details, besides the major ones, so any features that you think will make a difference please let me know. Any help to make a choice is greatly appreciated.
Why don't you try using various camera settings ... write down results on each try and then finally select the camera function that best suits your needs..
Jon
But yes, these two cameras are the same, just different model names for different countries. Nothing's different.
The only difference in price I could imagine is because you're either importing or exporting the product. In the home country (SD870IS for the U.S., IXY-910SD for Europe), both cameras should be the same price (all things considered, because I know most European countries have high taxes on electronic luxury items).
Hope that helps!
I'm not sure why your IXY-910IS would be CHEAPER in the U.S., apart from it either being a grey market item. The U.S. currency being at such a low would seem to encourage it costing more.
Great price, though :) But since it is the same camera, you're all set. Good find!
Thanks.
Also how is this camera at taking photos without a flash? Does it blur?
I hope this makes sense. I apologise in advance for my poor knowledge of Cameras and camera jargon. I am so in need of a new camera and until I can get a Nikon DX40 I need to upgrade my ancient old Canon IXUS II (yes it is old!). So this could be my saviour!
thanks for your help!
Without a flash, this camera excels. HOWEVER (as with all ultracompact cameras), low-light pictures without a flash will suffer. The optical image stabilization helps remove blur from your own hand movements, but it won't help if the subject is moving. In low-light, without flash or a large CCD, the camera resorts to either higher ISO (which adds that fuzzy noise in the pictures) or longer shutter speeds (to get more light into the picture, which causes blur). Both are bad things, but unavoidable. Fortunately, the SD870IS has good noise reduction when going to higher ISO's, so you should be fine up to about ISO800.
As far as ultracompacts, the SD870IS is about as good as it gets. I hope that helps!
thanks so much for your advice above :o) -- I think I will go the cannon but am interested in views.
Performance is good, though. .1 second shutter lag when prefocused, .2 second shutter lag including auto focus, .9 seconds between pictures without flash, 3-3.5 seconds between pictures with flash. 2.1-2.5fps using burst mode (capturing multiple pictures in an almost film-like, continuous mode). 5x optical zoom. Battery life is good (about 300 pictures). Movie mode is very good. But for $375 when you could get the SD870IS for $322 or even the SD850IS for <$250.... I just can't consider it as competition.
Hope that helps :)
I own the SD800IS, the predecessor of the SD870IS. I don't experience any barrel distortion. You can see some of my pictures at flickr.com/search/?q=mattk1... You can also see SD870IS pictures by just searching for "SD870IS" at www.flickr.com. Barrel distortion will only be noticable if you crop your pictures at the edges to intentionally look for this effect. Or blowing up pictures to larger than 8"x10" (and even then, only if the picture magnifies the effect (eg, pictures with vertical/horizontal lines all over the picture, or pictures that are extremely sharp to begin with, as you'll see a slight softening toward the edges).
Like I said, I don't have any issues, but if you're a pixel counter, you might.
Outside of a better macro, frankly I don't see any real concrete difference in the A630 over the SD870. And having that IS is a good option for an unpracticed user. So, if the IS is worth the additional $60, I'd go that way, otherwise, my recommendation would be to go with the A630.
You can check out pics taken by a630 in the link provided by James above.....Do display "All cameras" instead of "Current cameras" and you will be able to see A630.
You can also find reviews with pics at dpreview.com and steves-digicams.com
Based on Specs, I can say:
The A630 has a much bigger sensor at 1/1.8" compared to 1/2.5" (measured diagonally in a rectangular frame)...Same amount of Megapixels on a bigger sensor ==> less noise. OR more correctly, less dependence on 'incamera software dependent noise processing".
pics at imaging resource and the "test summary" on the first page of a camera review also indicate, that A630 has much less barrel distortion at wide angle and not much pincushion distortion at telephoto. To me, wide angle is more critical than telephoto...for in a room, i am most likely to click wide than telephoto and for telephoto i can always NOT zoom in as much but walk 5 feet in front at 3x zoom (instead of staying whereever i am and shooting at 4x).
However, SD870 goes wide at 28 mm, compred to 35mm of A630. Now thats a pretty good wide angle! At the telephoto end you should note that the widest aperture 870 can go is (a not so good) F/5.8 at 105 mm, while the A630 aperture can go as wide as F/4.1 at 140 mm....and most certainly wider than F/4.1 at a comparable 105 mm! This means u will be able to take sharper pictures AND use faster shutter speeds while zooming in with the A630 which in effect will compensate for the lack of IS in it..i.e. instead of clicking at 1/25 second (say) with 870 you will probably be clicking at 1/75 second with A630 at the 'SAME' focal length ...And you are very right about IS too....IS isnt needed as much for someone who knows how to hold a camera, its limitations and lighting conditions....Nothing better than a stable pair of hands.
And here i find the zoom coupled optical viewfinder of A630 very very handy. The 870 has NO optical viewfinder...which means u are holding the camera away from your body....a much less stable position than holding up close to your eyes.
Another aspect is battery: 870 uses proprietary lithium-ion battery. These batteries are way more powerful and charge much faster than the AA Ni-mH batteries, make the cameras lighter (their chargers are also super light! compared to the bulky chargers of AA batteries) and are the reason for the SD series to have such high res crisp LCD's. Cameras with AA batteries and such high res LCD's will lose charge rapidly. WHile this is good, you MUST be careful to not lose the battery or the charger.
The A630, you hsould note also requires 4 AA batteries. Not saying thats bad, but a point to note. Pros with AA batteries is that they are readily available for cheap. However this makes A630 more than 100 gms heavier than 870...But like you pointed out, this helps for a better grip and stable shots as well, and goes a long way in compensating for the lack of IS on the A630.
Good luck with your search, unless you have already bought one! And if u did, I would love to hear of what u feel about the camera you have.
It also has a swivel 2.5" LCD....very handy!
In the end, despite all specs, the best thing is to go to a store and take a look at these cameras. Hold them and get a feel of their make and build, the position of buttons and how they match with the thickness of ur fingers etc....Take some pictures....but as u know, what you see on camera's LCD can change dramatically when you view on a good computer screen....So keep that in mind.
As for differences, nothing really. I mean, the 950 has a smaller LCD, which is a good thing for battery life. It also takes faster shot to shot pictures by about .2fps. But it weighs about .32 oz more.
That's the differences in a nutshell. If you think you're going to take alot of enlarged pictures, whtn the 950 is where you wanna go. But if you're just going to snapshots, the 870 works just fine.
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
and thank you for answering
And don't let the 12MP of the P5100 (and to be fair, the FX100) fool you. While that's a great level of megapixel, you won't see any difference over an 8MP camera in 95% of your pictures since those will be mostlly snapshots. That other 5% - being enlargements - still won't really see the extra MP assert itself until the enlargements reach 8x10 or larger. And maybe even above 11x14.
So while 12MP packs alot of punch, for most of your pictures, it's kinda like driving a Ferrari on the freeway in SoCal. Sure, you can reach 220mph, but with a 65mph speed limit and constant rush hour traffic, it isn't too likely you'll enjoy it. So why pay for it?
So jump right in and start your journey into the wonderful world of SLR photography. You'll never look back.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on. One last thing. Cards have different speeds. The faster a card is, the quicker it'll save the photo and cycle to be ready for another shot. In the end, your camera is only going to be as fast as it's slowest link in the chain. So check for speed when you purchase a card.
Brands? I like SanDisk.
And yes, the SD870IS is a very good all around camera. Rated 1st or 2nd in every category. Doesn't get much better than that. So fear not.
Thanks for taking a second look..............
Thanks!
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on.
One last thing. Cards have different speeds. The faster a card is, the quicker it'll save the photo and cycle to be ready for another shot. In the end, your camera is only going to be as fast as it's slowest link in the chain. So check for speed when you purchase a card.
Thanks for answering, so the first question is, is G5-IS better than the H-9 under the conditions of outdoor shots(vacation) outdoor sports, indoor choir show choir concerts, , then I want to also get my daughter a smaller camera to be the counter to the larger one, like point, counterpoint, with something that would also be the other half for the conditions listed, if it;s not H-9 and G5-IS and a DSLR that's ok, but still have to figure out smaller camera and on DSLR should I wait for January new cameras?
Last question, should I throw the G-9 in the mix, would this be good for the photos she will be taking, Art projects, fast sports, show choir, plays, and trip out West in summer. Originally I was going to buy the H-9( reviews scared me away) then the G-9 to undecided, my daughter, 16+ interested in pre-med and Art, (Ceramics, Photography, on vacation she buys paintings or photograhs of the West which have great detail). The only thing I heard is people waitng for H-10 and new DSLR'S in January, and better Canon. I will check the T-200 out, Thank You
Went through all the reviews on T-200, thhen about half on SD870IS, can't figure out why half reviews for T-200 rate it bad, and then the other half rate it excellent, then you get almost all great reviews for Sd870IS, right now I want to have my daughter love the T-200 but then I think with a fast shot you want better images and sounds like 870 is it, what ddo you think?
Thank you
With a high ISO setting and the image stabilization, you should get good photos indoors and in lower lighting situations. To improve them that much more, I would recommend using a tripod or monopod with the camera to further reduce the camera shake in low lighting. This way you can have a longer shutter opening, let the right amount of light in, and have a steady photo. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Besides being almost $50 more expensive, the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a 12MP resolution (up from 8) and has more choices for image resolution (JPG size). It also is twice as fast in its video frame rate recording (15 frames per second vs. 30). The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also has an optical view finder (which can be useful in bright situations when you can't see the LCD as well).
Some options it doesn't have that the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does is a wide angle lens option (28mm vs 36mm) and slightly less optical zoom (3.8x on the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) vs. 3.7x on the SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )).
If I was choosing between these two cameras, I would go with the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because of the higher resolution and better video capabilities. You have to look at what you want to do with it though. If you're trying to get wide landscape type photos, the wider lens of the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a better option. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The pros can cons are outlined in the answer above. One thing I missed in the narrative above was the availability of an optical viewfinder. The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has one while the [ur=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS[/url] does not. In bright light, you might have issues seeing the LCD screen, so a viewfinder is nice to have in those situations. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
But, so far from US, European and Asian sites, IXUS 860 IS (aka SD870 IS) only has the following video formats:
1) 640 x 480 30 fps (max 1hour / 4GB)
2) 640 x 480 30 fps Long Play LP (max 1hour / 4GB)
3) 320 x 240 30 fps (max 1hour / 4GB)
4) 160 x 120 15fps compact mode (max 3 minutes)
5) 640 x 480 15fps Time Lapse mode (max 2 hours)
and I could have sworn that the review at dpreview.com listed it as well but it doesn't now.
The SD800 did 60FPS, perhaps this is a mistake that a site or 2 assumed the 870 would have it as well.
So Whats the benefit to the longer lens on the 850, would it capture more objects both vertically and horizontally and I guess "depthness" dont know how to call that.
Okay dilema choosing between these two cameras.
"So Whats the benefit to the longer lens on the 850, would it capture more objects both vertically and horizontally and I guess "depthness" dont know how to call that".
I had already figured out what you have provided.
What is the difference bet these two cameras regarding how hte pictures look, wide and long (how much is captured behind the target?
Focal length isn't going to impact it either. The SD850 has a longer focal length, but the 870is has a wider angle at the lower end of it's range. So the advantage in zoom capacity goes to the 850is. This would translate to being able to take pictures from a slightly longer distance.
As I said, they are essentially the same camera with the exception that the 850 has a smaller LCD and a viewfinder.
Hope that's more clear for you.
One thing though, she'll need to zoom BEFORE she presses record, as she won't be able to zoom while recording.
This would be a versatile camera that meets your specifications. If you want to stay with Sony, I would recommend the W55 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is a bit more limited when compared to the Olympus 760 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If I had to choose between the two, I would pick the Olympus 760 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I am a big fan of the Canon ELPH line. I have had one for 6 years now, and it still works great. You could try the Canon SD1000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Its compact size is fantastic to keep in a pocket or purse, and the 7.1 MP resolution will make it great for producing photos at 8x10 or larger (when set at the finest resolution). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
Bernadette
While the Fuji A900 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might sound impressive at first with its 9MP resolution, I don't like the image shift software or the low ISO setting options. I prefer to set things more manually. That being said, the new Olympus FE280, looks to have a lot of nice features. If its price fits into your budget, it might be the way to go. My favorite of the group is still the Canon SD1000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
First, I have to ask if you have the Sony Cybershot W55 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ); it has a 7.2 megapixel resolution. Is this the camera you have?
One of the reasons the camera shutter speed is slower is due the the auto focus. If you have the focal length you want, hold the button halfway down, and that should lock it, so when you push the whole way the camera will react faster.
As for the blurry shots, I'm guessing that you are in lower light situations when this happens. The camera will automatically adjust the shutter opening in those situations to allow more light in. To avoid this more, I would set your camera at ISO 1000 to allow more light in. You might see some graininess in the photos, but you will avoid the blurs.
If you would like to get a new camera all-together, I would recommend the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is one of the highest rated compact cameras on the site, has a larger ISO setting range, image stabilization (which will futher help to avoid blurry shots in low light settings), and you white balance can be manually adjusted to further "tweak" the camera to work better in low light situations. I hope this helps.
Andrew
You might need to play with the settings to get your current camera, as well as any future camera, to work better in low light settings. That is where the image stabilization, setting a higher ISO number, and switching to a shutter priority mode. This camera does not have a shutter priority, but it does have a nightshot mode, which will essentially speed up your shutter speed, which you want to avoid the blurry shots. I hope this helps.
Andrew
could you please suggest me an ultracompact pocket camera that i use mostly in indoors as i have a small kid.i am really confused between canon sd 870 is and canon 1000.i read in the reviews that canon 1000 is not good for lowlights and to take pics of kids as it comes blurrry but i like its size and 870 is bit big than sa 1000.i torn between two which to choose.this chirstmas i need to buy for everyday use as i need to click my baby photos to cherish them for long time.thanku andrew in advance i know u will suggest me good one.
If you like the Canon cameras and are looking for something that will perform a little better in low light with children, I would recommend something with manual exposure settings and image stabilization. The two cameras you mentioned don't have the manual settings, but the Canon SD 850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does. This camera has the ability to change the exposure settings manually to adjust better to low light situations. It is a bit bigger but that is to make room for the optical viewfinder which is nice on sunny days when you can't see the LCD screen as well. I hope this helps; good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I love my Cannon SD850. It is a great camera for the price! It is small enough to fit in my purse so it goes almost everywhere with me. It does not have a great deal of shutter lag which I appreciate since I have quick moving children! I find that my only problem with slow shutter comes when I am shooting indoors with a flash and my battery is on it's last leg. Otherwise it is very quick to shoot. I have also figured out that the continuous shutter works best in well-lit outdoor situations where the flash is not required.
It also includes a viewfinder which I find is a must-have feature.
I have gotten some incredible shots with this camera in the last few months thanks to the tips and techniques I have gotten from the wonderful people on this board!
HTH!
Amy S.
Sony Cyber-shot DSC T100:
1) Optical Zoom: 5X + Digital Zoom (10x)
2) Image Stabilization Technology: Super CyberSteady
3) Movie: 4:3 aspect ratio MPEG-1 with sound 640 x 480 max 2GB (no HD movie format; however it supports HD digital video output)
4) Lens: fixed Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar (supports conversion lens)
5) Aperture: f/3.5 - 5.6 (wide) / f/4.4 - 10 (tele)
6) LCD: 3.0" (230,000 pixels) 16:9 aspect ratio (difficult in outdoor sunlight)
7) Battery Life: 340 CIPA
8) Res: 8.1 MP
9) Focal length: 35mm - 175 mm (possible to have 27mm wide angle with the conversion lens)
10) ISO: 80-3200
11) Memory: 31MB Internal Memory, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick PRO Duo
12) Manual: Full manual PDF format only
13) Face detect: max 8 in practice
14) Sluggish menu system
15) So-so image quality
Canon Powershot SD870 IS:
1) Optical Zoom: 3.8X + digital Zoom (4x)
2) Image Stabilization Technology: Canon lens-shift OIS
3) Movie: 4:3 aspect ratio Motion-JPEG AVI Mono Aural WAV Q18187 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
4) Lens: extensible Canon (does not support conversion lens)
5) Aperture: f/2.8 - f/8.0 (Wide) / f/5.8 - f/16.4 (Tele)
6) LCD: 3.0" (230,000 pixels) (anti-reflection; no problem in outdoor sunlight)
7) Battery Life: 270 CIPA
8) Res: 8.0 MP
9) Focal length: 28mm - 105 mm
10) ISO: 80-1600
11) Memory: SD/SDHC/MMC/[HC]MMC+
12) Manual: Full manual printed book format
13) Face detect: max 9 in practice
14) Simplified menu system
15) Better image quality
The flash range for this camera is 1-13 ft when at the widest angle (zoomed-out) and 1-6 ft at the narrowest (zoomed-in). To help reduce the black background, you can use the "Slow Synchro Function" which shoots the flash with slower shutter speeds. As for the red-eye function, I've had hit or miss performance with cameras and usually rely on software to edit it out. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
But for a still camera, this one is tops. My only beef is that Canon dropped a view finder for a larger LCD, which kills the battery life.
As for how it matches up to the T70, head to head, IMHO, the SD870IS is a better buy. At least with Canon you aren't paying a premium because of proprietary technologies (like the Memory Stick) or because the name SONY is on it.
And here's a dirty little secret SONY doesn't want you to know. Most camera companies have SONY CCD chips in them.
I want to be able to snap pictures outdoors, on rides, etc.
I'm leaning towards the SD870, but the cost is a factor. Is it really worth the extra money?
Enjoy Disney World!
I was looking at those two cameras recently too. (I ended up with a Canon G9) Once I went to the store and held the SD1000 and SD870 in my hand(s) it was a no brainer for me. The SD1000 just felt terrible. I couldn't figure out where to put my fingers. It just did not work for my hand. The SD870is was much more enjoyable to hold and use. I wonder but you might benefit greatly from going to the store and giving them a try. Everything else being equal (or almost) the grip can easily make the final decision.
Larry
Some designs aren't for everybody.
We should treat point-and-shoot digital camera as to it true potential - to capture events in pictures and in print (and to a certain extent, basic movies). Expecting something better out of it (like sterophonic sound and other amazing gadgetry) will be an overkill. Expecting more for a better movie, maybe we should just use a video camcorder. In fact, we do now have a HD-capable video camcorder that can do more than a point-and-shoot digital camera can do, except in print (where a point-and-shoot digital camera does better). To capture just a better sound: we should go for a sound recorder ;)
I've always been partial to Canon cameras, both point and shoots and dSLRs. If you're looking for a functional camera that fits easily into a purse or pocket, I'd go with the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These have some great settings and features and you'll find it good in normal light situations of kids. In lower light situations, you might have to change some of the settings, but the image stabilization and ISO capability at 1600 should make it a all round camera. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I have been to the stores to play with the Canon Powershot SD850IS and SD870IS cameras. In the 850IS, I found that I can only see optical zooming on the LCD, but will not the digital zoom. The 870IS did not have this problem. Is this one limitation of the 850IS or is there a settings issue? I hope you know what I mean. Anyone have experience in this? Thanks a lot.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
Best Wishes
Larry
Merry Christmas, Larry
If you can not trust the colors displayed on your monitor, all other color management is a waste of time. Calibrating and profiling your monitor should, therefore, be your first priority. Luckily, it is the easiest part of the image capture, editing, and printing system to profile. The cost to do this ranges from free to expensive. If color accuracy and the ability to match your prints to your monitor are important to you, a decent hardware calibration system is essential. With a little work you can get good color from your monitor. If digital photography is your business, or you simply want the best colors you can get, the expense of a high quality calibration system is more than justified.
This is a common issue.
I have to imagine this problem has been refined in the years since the S500 came out. I have seen that Olympus lets you preview how they will adjust the shot right on the LCD so you can see what the exposure looks like. This sounds tempting. How are the latest Canons? To be honest, I am ready to give up on Canon, but the great reviews have piqued my interet. Thanks for any advice.
Larry
I am looking at these cameras. The Sony T70, Canon 870, and the Canon 950. The 950 is a little out of my price range, but I just want opinions. I want to know which has the better image quality, more zoom, I basically just want an opinion on these cameras. Have you used them before? Which is better and in what ways?? Please explain your answers. This is worth 15 points. Please help quickly. Thank you!
dpreview.com/reviews/compar...
Good luck, Larry
I am looking at these cameras. The Sony T70, Canon 870, and the Canon 950. The 950 is a little out of my price range, but I just want opinions. I want to know which has the better image quality, more zoom, I basically just want an opinion on these cameras. Have you used them before? Which is better and in what ways?? Please explain your answers. This is worth 15 points. Please help quickly. Thank you!
I'm outlining the major specifications for the three cameras in the following order: Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), Canon SD 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), Sony T70.
- Megapixels:
12.1 vs 8 vs 8
The extra resolution will be noticable in large poster print sizes, if you're not printing over 8x10" or just placing the photos online, you won't see much difference between the 12 and 8 MP.
- Optical zoom:
3.7x vs 3.8x vs 3x
I'm a big fan of optical zoom. The more you can get the better. Digital zoom will cause you to lose resolution, so I try not to use it at all. In the case of these cameras, the difference in optical zoom isn't that big.
- ISO Range:
80-1600 vs 80-1600 vs 80-3200
There is a bit of an argument about the pros and cons for a higher ISO setting. While you do get more noise or "graininess" with a higher ISO setting, you get a lot better performance in low light settings. I like the higher settings and just use some software, PaintShopPro, for noise removal after transferring to my computer.
- Manual Exposure Capability
yes vs no vs maybe
The Sony gets a maybe because it is not specifically called out on camera's specification site ( sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/st... ) but it does site step increments for exposure control. This leads me to think you can control the exposure level manually. I like this because you can adjust the camera to do what you want it instead of just auto settings.
- Image Stabilization:
yes vs yes vs yes
This is a great feature to have in low light settings and/or if you have shaky hands.
- Face detection technology
no vs no vs yes
While this may sound neat, I've heard some issues with this. If your subject isn't smiling, the technology doesn't work as well.
All in all, I like the Sony T70 the best. The ISO 3200 setting really does it for me. I also like some of the other features that come with the camera like widescreen capability and the smile technology sounds very interesting (takes pics automatically when the subject smiles or laughs). I'd be interested to see how that works, but the camera seems pretty functional beyond the tech stuff as well. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Tyler
I'm glad we could be of assistance. Please come back to DCHQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with any more issues or questions. Happy Holidays.
Andrew
You chose the Sony T70 because of the ISO setting.
I have no idea what ISO is or what it does for your pictures.
Could you please explain why a higher setting is good to have.
Thanks!
ISO settings are comparable to film ISO settings. These numbers refer to how much light is exposed on film in a certain amount of time. The higher the number, the more light. They actually have a one to one ratio. For instance, ISO 1600 will allow twice as much light in as ISO 800. In film, its how fast the silver halides change when exposed to light. The settings in digital cameras were made similar for an easier translation from traditional film photography.
One thing to be aware of with higher ISO settings is the increased "noise" issue. Higher ISO settings do cause a greater amount of graininess in the photos. This can be reduced with noise reduction options in photo software like Paint Shop Pro and Photoshop.
To sum it up, higher ISO settings let you take more visible pictures in low light situations.
Andrew
So you told Sony T70 will be the best choice from compacts? What will be the best choice now from compact cameras?
From the choice of the three cameras outlined below, I liked the Sony T70. What are you trying to do with your camera? You can see some differences in top rated compact cameras here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for a better idea.
Andrew
Some of the Canons have face recognition technology, but not all. Thank you for pointing out my error above though. The Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) both have Canon face detection technology. I have heard its not the best when people don't have a big, teethy smile either.
The Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does have manual exposure control, not focusing though.
I need a camera to take a good picture, it has to be small enough to put it into the pocket. That's basically everything what I expect. Pictures I'm taking during the trip, party with friends/family. And if I want to take a picture of nice view (mountains, architecture), it will allows me to do that and everything will be visible on the photo. Price, I don't really want to pay more than $300-$350, but to be honest I have no clue how expensive is the camera, which will satisfy my "huge" expectations. What would you recomend me? I am a photo amateur.
Sebi
You should be able to get all of that and more. Something like the Panasonic Lumix TZ3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a great option for you. It is small enough to fit in your pocket, has an amazing 10x optical zoom for better close ups, and a wide angle lens (28mm equivalent) that will help with your landscape type photos. It also has some settings that enhance low light photos without a flash (image stabilization and higher ISO functionality). You can also pick it up for around $200 right now, so that is well below your budget, but still has all the functionality you're looking for.
Andrew
Maybe there is different equal option, because I hate this design of camera....:P and I don't think I will be using so big zoom. btw, do you know how does look like photo in 10x zoom made by this panasonic?? is it quality the same like without zoom?
sebi
I have a plan of buying a camera and for some reason i hold canon as better compared to sony,as snaps out of canon are really good, can you suggest me the best one in the canon brand,major features which i look for are :
1. good amount of optical zoom with IS
2. More Pixels
3. manually configurable
4. pretty good memory slot
more over my craze for camera being good is, when i zoom on to the picture on my PC, the pixel should be clear and the picture should not get blurred for a good fare amount of zooming
I have an eye on A570 IS , A590 IS, SD870 IS and SD1100 IS.
Kindly suggest me the best one,as this camera is one i am looking for from long time.
Will look on for your valuable reply
While the cameras you have listed are decent, they won't have the zoom you are looking for. I would recommend the Canon S5 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) to suit your needs better. It has 12x optical zoom with image stabilization. This camera also has a shoe for an external flash and can accept extender lenses with an adapter tube. This will give you even more flexibility. At 8 mega-pixels of resolution, you'll find it more than capable for large size prints.
If you feel this camera is too large or too much (around $300), you can try the Canon SX 100 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It also has a 8MP resolution and 10x optical zoom, but is a bit smaller in size and runs around $200.
Both cameras have manual controls for focus and exposure. They also use SD memory cards and AA sized batteries. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I go for canon 870 due to it is wide angle, and better image quality, also partly becos of its large lcd screen.
You pretty much hit the nail on the head. If you want high quality pictures buy a Canon.
Also for the people buying a camera based solely on the Mega Pixels read this. 6mpixel.org/en/?
first, I appreciate your work.
I own a t70 and im unable to capture an image with more than 2.5 mb of size.
could u help me in taking a image with more size (which increases the picture quality) so that image wont get distorted when zoomed.im worried for this since last 4 months.i shoot in day light and my maximum pictures contains faces..plz help
The image size will depend on how much detail there is in your picture. If you take a shot of a blank wall the size will be much smaller than if you take a picture of grass. If you take 10 pictures of with different subject matter, they will all be different sizes on your computer.
btw, in auto settings with flash on, and shot with a distance of 1 to 2 meters from the object(with face detection ON), the image is good but when zoomed in, the image is getting distorted. How to get rid of this. though the image dimensions are 3072*2304 in 8 mega pixel setting.
And can u plz explain the term NOISE in photography.
tnx once again.
Digital noise comes from two main sources. The first being the inherent noise in the camera's sensor. This is exacerbated by heat buildup on the chip from multiple exposures or long exposures, or by having many photosites clustered onto a small chip. Digital SLR's have less noise than point and shoots cameras because the image sensors are much larger. The second source of noise is from the ISO rating. The ISO setting amplifies the signal through the chip, much like turning up the volume on your stereo. With the volume at 3, you can't hear the noise in your stereo, at 10 you hear the hiss through the speakers. This is amplification noise.
Noise Ninja and Neat Image do a good job of making it less noticeable, and in some cases almost eliminate it altogether.
what about this PHIL
Thank You,
Rosh
I usually do research on cameras. To my knowledge one should always look in to Megapixels, Optical Zoom (dont even worry about digital) and aperture (especially when used for indoor shooting). and ISO range
8-10 Mepapixels is really good
3x is ok , 4X is good and 5X optical zoom is better
coming to the aperature , It should always be high. For instance say f/2.0 is better that f/4.0
let me define few terms
Focal lenght: the distance between the camera lens and the sensor is called focal lenth. For a good camera the focal length should
be always less. f is the focal lenght
Aperature : is the maximum opening of the lens. say if aperature is f/2 , then the lens gets opened by half of the
focal length which enables to gather more light and thus avoids the use of flash. Now a days we can get a maximum aperature of f/2.8.
Note . a camera with aperature f/2.8 is far better than a camera with f/3.5 and also this will be little expensive than the later one.
Coming to the ISO setting .
Usually it is recomemded to take picture on low iso when there is enough light and vice versa.
This really doesnt matter when you have good aperature
CONCLUSION
i would go with canon sd 950 among those three.
with regards
sundeep
Power Supply - Battery Pack NB-5L
Shooting Capacity
Still Image: approx. 270 shots (NB-5L/LCD on with fully-charged batteries)
Playback Time
Approx. 360 min. (NB-5L)
Course, this assumes you aren't taking alot of flash shots. Also, because this camera solely relies on the LCD screen for viewing and photo composition (it doesn't have a viewfinder), it eats up much more batteries than similar Canon models that have a viewfinder.
* The above figures comply with CIPA testing standards and apply when a fully-charged battery is used.
Can be recharged 300-500 times and last longer if they are recharged soon after each use (rather than discharging completely before recharging). Lithium-ion batteries have little or no memory problems but they do slowly lose their power capacity over time whether they are used or just sit on the shelf (deterioration begins as soon as they are manufactured!).
So lithium battery needs replacing after 3 years whether it gets used or not. Lots of info at batteryuniversity.com. ( batteryuniversity.com )
Larry
Any LCD is going to be hard to see in sunlight. I personally like to have a camera with a viewfinder (digital or optical) instead. If you like the canon ELPH line, you might try the Canon SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) instead. It actually has slightly more optical zoom (4x vs 3.8x), manual exposure control, and it costs about $50 less. Personally, I would go with the SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) when choosing between the two. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks again!
-Dany :)
I wanted to add to Andrew's reply that the LCD on the 850 is slightly smaller (2.5" vs. 3.0", I believe) because the 850 makes room for that viewfinder. But as Andrew also pointed out, it will be a difficult go w/o a viewfinder if you are taking pics in the sun. About 3 mos. ago, I was also deliberating between the 850 and the 870. The 850 won out in the end! Good luck on your camera search!
And Andrew ... great pics on your site, BTW. Were you using the 850 for those pics??
Amy
You're more than welcome on the advice on the SD 850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Amy,
Thanks for the assist on the recommendation. As for my site, I took those pictures with a variety of cameras. It really depends on which you look at. Most of them were taken with either the Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Some were taken with the Canon S2 IS and the SD230 as well.
Andrew
blackdoorphotos.deviantart....
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont...
Best wishes, Larry
If you feel one of the reply's has sufficiently answered your question, please feel free to mark it as the best answer. If not, please let us know what else you would like to know so we can better answer your inquiries. Thanks again for using Digital Camera Headquarters.
Andrew
Larry
Jonathan
Reason is to make sure the additional SD memory cards I purchase have at least the same write rate or higher so they don't "slow" the camera down. Thanks!
Best wishes and good camera hunting and picture shooting, Larry
The Nikon S700 is a new camera that really outdoes the Canon 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a higher resolution at 12MP, a wider ISO setting range (good for low light settings, and it is a bit smaller too. Unfortunately, you'll have issues with any LCD in bright sunlight. Personally I prefer a camera with a viewfinder to combat this. Not everyone likes them though.
You might try the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) to gain that capability. It also has a 12MP resolution, but comes with a viewfinder as well. It also comes with the ability to set the exposure level manually, giving you more flexibility with your shots. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I've read alot of reviews of the SD870, and it sounds like a great camera. But shutter lag is a major concern for me. Any info would be appreciated, even recommendations of cameras with little lag.
Depending on the settings and lighting situation, any digital point and shoot is going to have some shutter lag. While it has improved over the years, you have to make sure you optimally set your camera for the least amount of lag. In low light settings, the camera will take longer to photo, especially if the flash is off because it needs to set itself to take the best picture it can.
Using higher ISO settings and manual exposure settings in low light, as well as pressing the shutter release button half way to lock the focal length and other settings will decrease that lag time. Otherwise, a dSLR in manual mode will be your fastest bet. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
dpreview.com/reviews/canons...
Pre-focusing reduces shutter lag dramatically.
Maybe you can try the shutter lag with your A520 (that is if you still have it and it is still in working condition). When taking a photo, half press the shutter button half way first to focus on your subject then frame your photo and shoot! It's actually the proper way to shoot photos with autofocus! Unless you shoot with full manual mode, whereby you focus the image first before you get to pressing the shutter button to shoot! NEVER EVER fully press the shutter button straightaway when using autofocus! No cameras are design to function this way, it just confuses the camera on what you want to shoot!
If you want a pocket sized camera with a lot of zoom, the Panasonic TZ3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a great choice. While its slightly larger than the Canon listed above, the zoom capability is much better at 10x (28-280mm equivalent).
While you might find some of the automatic settings less flexible than you're used to with your SLR, it will suit your other specifications. The 7.2MP resolution will be great for prints at 8x10 and even 20x30 at the finest resolution settings (with minimal to no cropping done). It also takes movies in Quicktime, motion JPEG format with a built in microphone. The camera also has a built in speaker for reviewing the movies you take.
Other nice features are the image stabilization, wide screen capabilities, and the ability to accept the new, larger format HCSD cards which will store more pictures with 4GB capacity and more. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting on your upcoming trip.
Andrew
1. Be sure to purchase your camera well in advance of the trip and practice lots. Especially get familiar with the results of the different resolution settings and picture sizes including the wide screen setting. Load the test/sample pictures in your computer and compare. You may find that less than the maximum pixel number looks just as good on your computer screen and takes less storage space on your memory cards. You may also find that the wide screen format looks better (or worse). Also, consider whether you plan to print your pictures to paper and, if so, try some on your printer and/or at your local stores for quality/results. This is a big trip so some checkout procedures such as these can save major headaches later.
2. Make sure you have proper adapters for your battery charger. You might even want to get an extra battery and take it with you just in case.
3. Plenty of memory cards are a necessity. The speed is judged by Class and the capacity by GB. The cheaper Class 2 cards will do fine for taking the usual shots. You only need the faster Class 4 for video and the Class 6 for continuous/burst mode shooting. Large capacity 8GB cards are needed only if you are going to video long sequences (30 minutes and more). Except for video, you are better off to have 4 of the 2GB cards rather than 2 of the 4GB cards because that provides insurance against a card failure. Even if a card fails, don't throw it away. The pictures can almost always be retrieved with software. (Don't even worry about it unless it actually happens).
4. IF you manage to fill up all your cards, you can find local camera shops that will burn your photos onto CD's so you can reformat your card and go again. (or go to an internet cafe and do it yourself if your are tech savvy).
5. Some of your most dramatic photo ops in Italy will be early morning and late in the day. Take a nap during the day if you have to in order to get up early and get some of those gorgeous shots everyone will oooh and ahhh over when you get home.
6. Practice taking indoor photos WITHOUT flash. This is so you will be ready to take photos in the museums and cathedrals without flash and get the best results you can. Try lots of different settings so you are familiar with your cameras capabilities.
Enjoy to the fullest, Larry
Sandy
Irwin
Just my impression from reading lots and lots of reviews -- I doubt that the TZ3 will ever match up to your SD700 in sharpness. Panasonic just uses too much noise reduction and it softens the whole picture up. Most folks don't print their images to paper and those who do mostly just print 4X6 and never notice the difference. I just looked it up again and there is no option to adjust sharpness, saturation or contrast in camera for the TZ3.
Thanks for the quick - and reassuring response. Now that you mentioned it, I realize that my kids all simply keep photos on their computers, smart phones, etc. We like to actually print ours on at least 5x7, if not 8x10 photo paper. So the quality and sharpness is great concern to us. Because I am also intrigued by a true wide-angle capability, I think I'm headed toward the Canon sd870. Make sense to you? Anything else in the ultracompact range to look at?
Irwin
A wide angle camera might keep you occupied for quite a while from what I have read. It's not just for wide group photos and scenic panoramas. You might want to read some at kenrockwell.com on wide angle lens photography. Here's a sample photo of his showing how really wide angle shots can allow you to look absolutely straight into a very close object (fan) and the far horizon (to the right). kenrockwell.com/trips/2007-... Totally wild. Of course, he was using 14mm lens to get that effect, but that's the idea. The wider angle lens allow you to get closer to the foreground while maintaining the distant background as an important part of the picture. Of course, it is also wonderful for the panoramic shots and wide group photos (kids baseball teams, etc).
I would like to buy a compact digital camera, which can serve longer and should be around $200, any sugg?
Gopal.
You have given me a very broad category to work with and not any specifics of how you intend to use the camera. So I'll try to make some suggestions for you to research.
Canon A720is, A650is, A570is, S3is, SD800is and SD850is
Panasonic TZ3
Olympus SP-550UZ and 560UZ
You might check these out by clicking on the "Research" button found at the bottom right hand corner of this page.
Good Hunting.
With battery and card weight is approximately 183gm or 6.5 ounces. I say approximately because the stated weight of the battery varies from 21 to 27.5g and the SD card is minuscule.
Larry
As a follow-up: I am looking for a very good, light digital camaera in the $300-range, to carry when I go biking (hence the lightness). Anoother model I noticed is the Sony Cybershot DSCW200. Do you have an opinion about this camera and can you compare it with Canon Powershot SD870-IS?
Thanks again.
Ken
Here we go with a rapid comparison of features --
870is has wide angle at 28mm and 3" LCD with 230,000 pixels but no viewfinder. Macro to 2cm.
850is zooms to 140mm with 2.5" LCD with 230,000 pixels and a viewfinder plus timelapse photos. Macro to 2cm.
W200 has only 3X zoom with 2.5" LCD with 115,000 pixels and a viewfinder. Macro to 5cm. 2 levels of compression.
Both the Canons have 3 levels of compression and use the cheaper SDHC memory cards.
W200 has 2 levels of compression and uses Sony's proprietary memory cards.
Summary: If you really want a wide angle get the SD870is. For lower cost, longer zoom and a viewfinder get the SD850is.
The only reason I can find to get the W200 is manual focus (and if you have ever tried to use manual focus on a point and shoot digital camera you know how difficult it is to use).
Larry
Ken
p.s. I am new to this site and wasn't paying attention to the "points" business. So I forgot to add points for your answer. sorry about that. Your answer was indeed very helpful.
It really is my pleasure to help out, and I do appreciate the points whenever you feel they are deserved.
I especially appreciate your letting me know I have been helpful. Often folks enjoy the site, get the advice they need (or not) and forget to let us know the outcome. Your feedback is much appreciated and helps me shape my information to better fit future questions.
Thanks again. Best Wishes and Happy New Year! Larry
The SD 870 has image stabilization, the SD 750 does not. Is it that important and will I miss it?
The SD850is is cheaper than the 870is and has a viewfinder and shoots time lapse photos if you like that. The 870is has the 28mm wide angle which is nice for group photos and unusual closeups.
Best Wishes, Larry
Thank you so much.
Thanks for your help.
Carol
Thanks!
I'm not real comfortable with switching to a camcorder for stills yet, but thanks for the help!
If you don't mind answering one more question.....the movie mode IS better than any standard cel phone video, correct?
But if you want a small video camera that's hand held, you may also want to look into the FLIP ULTRA. ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... )
Battery Life 270 Images
Buy a Charger to recharge with extra set of batteries (set in the charger/set in the camera)
The reported charging time for a battery is about an hour, so you can decide whether you would need to get a standalone charger or not depending on your preference.
SD870 IS does NOT use AA batteries! the shop that sells you SD870 IS which uses AA must be bonkers! Canon's SD series (IXUS in some other countries) all use Li-Ion. While powershot A-series and S-series uses AA. If you prefer AA, then have a look at A-series. Do note that some owners of A-series which uses 2 AA batteries have experience some power problem - short battery life, but on other features, Canon A-series is extremely good, you'll get SLR functions, just not SLR quality!!!
Can the speed be increased by lowering the resolution and/pr increasing compression or getting higher speed SD cards?
I like most of the features, but this is a major downer for me because I love going to Rally races and catching cars in mid-air.
Changing compression doesn't seem to have any effect.
Other brands allow 2-3 frames per second but limit the burst to 5 pictures typically (Panasonic).
On a different note -- Did your Olympus have a viewfinder, and did you use it when shooting those fast moving air-borne cars? If so, you might want to look at the Canon SD850is which is very similar to the SD870is but has a 2.5 inch LCD and the viewfinder which is really useful to following fast moving subjects (panning) while shooting. LCD's typically black out momentarily between shots and make it harder to stay on track while panning.
Larry
I never really used the view finder on the Olympus, and it would stop after 19-20 pictures.
Soooo, one way to get faster speeds is find an older 4-6MP camera with burst mode.
Example: Canon G6 - 7MP gets 2.0 fps up to 14 shots, has 4X optical zoom and uses CF cards.
Red-eye is common to any camera that has a flash located close to the lens. That's why more expensive models have the pop-up style flash setup to increase the distance between the flash and lens (as the S5is does). Never-the-less, Canon comes with in camera software to remove red-eye so it has now become much less of a problem to get rid of whenever it does happen.
Be sure to factor in size and weight which is increased with the S5is but still less than a dSLR with lenses etc.
Also, be sure any camera fits well in your hand before buying it. Hands come in all sizes, and that is one reason so many different cameras are out there to choose from.
I'll be glad to help further as desired.
Larry
Thanks,
Meredith - New York
Could you tell me what camera you are currently using? Let's start with what you have and how you are using it, then decide what camera would be better for your purposes.
Larry
Larry
Yes, there are much better cameras out there now, but the C340 was good for its day except for short battery life.
The C340 has plenty of pixels and is will focus as close as 2 feet without even using the macro mode. Is that not close enough to get the pics you want of the 2 year old or is it the excessive flash that is the problem? Unfortunately, the flash on this camera is not adjustable in amount of output (other than to just turn it off [which is worth trying]). So, if your flash is too strong/bright your only option is to move a little farther away and zoom in. Keep moving away and zooming in until the flash isn't too bright and that is probably the best this camera will do with a flash. Otherwise it's go outside and try to get a spot where the natural light is good and you don't need that pesky flash. In good light and at 2-3 feet you will get the best picture this camera can make without using the macro mode. If you really want the eyelashes, switch to macro mode and you can move in as close as about 6 inches and the camera should still focus correctly.
Let me know how that works out. If you are still not happy with your pics at that point then you can be confident that a new camera is in order.
Best wishes and happy shooting, Larry
To my knowledge all Canon digitals have a self timer capability of at least the standard 10 seconds. Many also have the 2 second option for taking photos when you don't want to risk camera movement while pushing the shutter button.
Enjoy, Larry
The 870is is pretty quick but is slowed down by having to use the LCD all the time in absence of a viewfinder. One nice option with the 870is is its continuous shooting mode which is 1.3 fps non-stop 'til your card fills up. So you don't really have to wait for the fish to jump. Just point it and shoot nonstop. Of course, then you have to go back and delete the ones that you don't want. If you really want the quickness of response you are talking about without pre-focusing, that is the realm of the dSLR which is too large for your needs.
Sooooooo, enter the Canon SD950is. check it out here:
imaging-resource.com/PRODS/...
It will print your 11X17 images with its 12MP and shoots 1.5 fps on continuous mode. The wide angle only goes to 36mm though which doesn't meet your criteria. It does have a viewfinder so you can turn the LCD off and get faster response times. I haven't been able to get actual measured shutter lag times on this camera, but you might have time to look around by using the "Resources" button found near the bottom right hand corner of this page.
Good hunting, Larry
You are talking about 11 X 17 printed images. If you want that large an image to hang on your wall or enter in formal competition, then that tells me you want it to be really sharp too. No sense in making a huge print of something that at that size begins to get soft and fuzzy. As a general rule, you need 300dpi to stay sharp so that is 3300 X 5100 pixels and that means a camera taking images at about 17MP. That implies a dSLR camera (which obviously won't fit the size criteria for backpacking). Never-the-less, if you have 12MP you can maintain about 250dpi at 11x17 which isn't bad, especially for an ultracompact. Others will tell you that 4-6MP is enough, and that is generally true BUT NOT for the size print you want.
Also, you want fast "shutter times" without prefocusing. That criteria also shouts out for dSLR, but for non-SLR cameras speed is slower the more pixels you have. So now we see a definite conflict between your two top priorities! To minimize the shutter lag problem you can 1) shoot in continuous mode especially with auto-focus turned off, 2) shoot with the LCD off and use the viewfinder, 3) use manual focus [not available on the SD950is] to eliminate the focusing part of the shutter lag, 4) pre-focus [not available with wild fish], 5) shoot in video mode [no 11X17 prints here], 6) use a mode that forces small aperture [f8 is the smallest on most ultra-compacts] which results in largest depth of field and allows you to pre-focus on some generic spot anywhere in the general vicinity of the next fish and still obtain acceptable focus. Of all those ideas, the SLR is the best [but I understand why it isn't acceptable here], and number 6 may be your best bet because it eliminates all but about 0.08 seconds of the shutter lag problem, and the wild fish I once saw (and actually shot in the head with a 22 rifle!) "hung" at the top of its jump for at least that long. (I know. Not good, safe, or legal to shoot fish. I was 17 and an idiot. I shoot with cameras now).
I am interested whether you shoot these fish at wide angle or do you want the wide angle for other shots? Could you potentially carry two small cameras -- one for "fishing" and the other for the panorama wide angle shots? Could you just use photo-stitching for the wide angle shots? Also, what is my budget here?
Larry
dcresource.com/reviews/pana...
This Panasonic camera has the wide angle 28mm lens, 12MP and ultracompact size. The reviewer points out its fast shutter response times and it even has a special extra fast mode which momentarily shuts the LCD off to speed shooting up. (Same effect as having a viewfinder and shooting with LCD off all the time). No viewfinder but that's OK since the camera will turn the LCD off in the extra fast mode to save time and turn it right back on in an instant. The far corners of your large prints may be a little soft which is common on ultra-compacts. I think this camera will be worth your while to test out at your local camera shop.
Larry
So I think the only way to answer this definitely is take pics of the same scene with 6MP, 8MP, 10MP and 12MP (perhaps borrowed?) cameras, print them up on your printer at 11X17 and decide which is acceptable to you. I will predict you'll like the 12MP best.
2.) The image quality factor really only deteriorates when the light level is inadequate for using ISO 80. That is where the disadvantage to high MP shows up because they make more noise than the 6MP or even 4MP cameras, and that noise has to be suppressed. It's the suppression of the noise that causes image quality degradation. So as long as you have adequate sunlight out on the water to keep the camera set at ISO 80 you don't have to worry about that aspect of the image quality issue. That would also apply generically to any high MP P&S camera.
At this point (short of the experiment described in #1) we've answered the question as to whether "the large print from a lower resolution high quality image may be better than from a higher resolution lower quality image." No, it would not provided there's enough light to shoot at ISO 80.
3.) Allowing for size range to include compact and ultra-compact would make for more options to choose from, and that is always better IMHO.
4.) Your vivid description of the shooting conditions and situation helps tremendously in my understanding how to balance the compromises and which strengths are vital to making the shot. I certainly see your point for the wide angle lens! I also like the way you take the camera category literally -- Point and Shoot! Forget the viewfinder. Heck, forget the LCD except for playback. That opens up choices too. It also allows for reconsideration (in my viewpoint) of using the continuous shooting mode blasting away at the fastest frame rate possible and then choosing acceptable pictures later. But, that would be something you can judge better than I. Some of the Panasonics go up to 3fps but only for 5 frames, then there is a waiting period for processing and storage before you can shoot another 5 images. I see that as being too frustrating. It is awful enough to let the occasional fish get away, and we don't want to let any pictures "get away".
5.) I agree that technology is approaching the solution for your limitations, and, if its not there now, it will be soon.
6.) $650. That sounds good. Let's see what I can do with it. I really enjoy spending other peoples' money. :)
More to follow, Larry
I have to admit I'm not really familiar with Ricoh except the film Ricoh my brother had years ago and that one was magnificent right until it was stolen. Ricoh has been around a long time and is a low volume niche market manufacturer. Check out the reviews and see if this is what you've been waiting for.
I'll be looking forward to your response to the Ricohs AND to whether or not the experiment described in #1 above is a possibility for you to do.
Larry
Thanks for the very informative reply. although I do want the very best quality images to hang on my wall, I do not have the experience that you have to deal with the technicalities. but I do have enough experience to understand the points that you are making which are all very good and logical. With limited time to compare (I spend any free time outside and it is never enough) I usually do my best research, then buy the camera, try to get the most out of it and never look back until technology really advances. The Nikon I have is limited and outdated but i am still amazed at some of the shots I get from it. I love digital photography. It had fullfilled the dream I had for years of custom photography that I just did not have the time to pursue with film.
I will check out the Ricohs you mentioned and re-look at the review on the Panasonic with the intension to keep the ISO in the lower ranges.
Thanks for the very lively responses to my questions.
Pat
I know what you mean about getting a lot out of an outdated camera. Until very recently I was using a very worn out/hanging on by a thread Minolta F100 and it took the single best photo I've ever made plus a whole lot of decent vacation photos. It just became too much work to maintain it and I had some "found money" available for a new Canon G9. Oh, joy!
Let me know how I may be of any further help, and I will look forward to a future post where you let me know what you decided and how it worked out. Feedback is the best way for me to increase my database of knowledge which in turn I use to help others with problems and questions.
Larry
imaging-resource.com/PRODS/...
this camera does offer in camera cropping, red-eye reduction during playback mode, and image resizing.
The best thing to do is to narrow down your choices of cameras, read up on them on the internet (for the pros and cons) and then drop by the camera shop. At the store, test out each of the cameras and sometimes some sales person are actually very knowledgeable on the camera operations and specific (although some sales person are just ignorant and rant about cameras without actually knowing about these things!)
I would still verify that at a camera store in person because the Canon website also indicates this camera will show photos in "RAW playback" which is pretty silly. I sent them an email asking for clarification and will post it here when received.
Canon's website is www.canonusa.com and then navigate from there.
My niece's favorite saying is, "Only you can enjoy your day"
I'm glad we could be of assistance to you. If you feel one of the questions adequately answered your question, please mark it best answer. Please come back with any other questions or issues. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks,
Meredith - New York
I currently own 3 Canon cameras, and have found them to be great in all situations (when used correctly). The Canon 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would work for you on the indoor shots you're looking for. I'm not sure I fully understand your issue with the bright subjects and dark background. If this is occuring when you use your flash, I can explain it. Most flashes on cameras like this only have a 12-15 foot maximum range. Anything beyond that will appear darker. To adjust that, you would have to turn the flash off and use a longer shutter exposure. When doing that, you will see more blur if anyone moves, or you have the slightest "shake" when taking the photo. While not the optimal fix, it can work if everyone holds still and you use a tripod or monopod for stability. I hope this helps.
Andrew
On close up shots, there are different ways to go about it! One is that you use a long telephoto and zoom in, another is to take the shots very near to the subject - i.e. macro. With macro mode, you would be able to get shots with flash, although you would still need sufficient lighting.
This might not be what you are looking for, but any DSLR would do great justice for what you want! THe Nikon D40x could give you great details! But if you are a novice and find setting up a DSLR simply a hassle, then do not go the DSLR way.
Stick with any good Canons or Nikons P&S. Something with high ISO will be good also. As Andrew suggest, Canon 870 IS would be a good P&S, as would any Canon P&S. Ah... I guess I'm not helping much here, but again, most of the newer Canon models should be adequate for your needs. What I'm trying to say is that a lot of times, it's how you shoot the photo that governs the results, and not which camera! Since you have friends taking photos of their kids with results that you are looking for, why not ask them which cameras they are using and also how they are actually getting those shots. If I am one of them, I would gladly tell you all about those beautiful shots of my kids!
With that info, narrow down what your friends use, and go to a camera shop and look for those cameras (some models probably have been updated) have try them out.
Meredith - New York
Remember to play around with the camera more! And don't be scared to try out the manual controls. And with the RAW ability of this camera, you can get great low lighting shots at an extremely successful rate! So if you don't need to do burst mode capture, do try and take photos via the RAW + JPEG mode (at least for the higher ISO settings), with RAW, you can get amazing details and very low noise with the supplied noise reduction software! Do read up your manual on all the functions! the G9 is (imho) the most capable P&S camera in the market!
Have a read through the following test review of the G9 conducted by POPPHOTO.COM, it's very informative on the abilities of the G9!
popphoto.com/cameras/4599/c...
and Last of all, ENJOY your camera!
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any future questions or issues. Good luck with your new camera and happy shooting.
Andrew
David
SD950is, SD870is and SD850is for ultracompact size to slip into a pocket easily. You can compare their specs. at www.canonusa.com quite easily and see they are well equipped.
The 950 has highest MP (who cares over 6MP) AND largest sensor (we do care) and an optical viewfinder.
The 870 has a larger LCD at 3" (vs 2.5"), no optical viewfinder, AND a wide angle lens (28mm very nice).
The 850 has 2.5" LCD with optical viewfinder similar to the 950, but a smaller CCD sensor.
All three have lithium batteries and take SD and SDHC memory cards.
If you want 10X zoom, look at the Panasonic TZ3 though it is larger and heavier but still reasonable for travel for sure.
Others may give you comparable results in this size camera, but I don't know of any that will beat them (especially the 950).
On this note, check out this discussion on a forum I found:
hardware.mcse.ms/message319...
seems that you should be able to use it as a webcam, but you'll need to get a Canon SDK from Canon and you'll have to do some programming to get it working as a webcam.
General opinion will be why not just get a webcam instead. Since using the canon digicam as a webcam will be a waste of the battery life and the image you'll get won't be that much better than a webcam!
If you like having a viewfinder, definitely get the SD800is.
The slowest is class 2 and it is fine for general still picture taking.
Next is Class 4 and it will also cover for video.
Class 6 is the fastest and it is required for continuous mode shooting (and RAW mode which is not available on this camera).
Your SanDisk Ultra II (if it is an SD card) is probably a Class 2, but it could also be Class 4 rated depending on how old it is.
Sparker is correct, you have to check your SAN DISK ULTRA II, whether it's a CF card or an SD card, if it's SD, then you are good to go, if CF, then no.
Getting rid of shutter lag is mainly a matter of technique since current A rated P&S cameras have improved substantially since the G6.
If you want to shoot moving subjects like active children, I would strongly advise selecting a camera with manual exposure control and learn to shoot in the manual aperture control mode ( A mode ). It's not nearly as difficult as you might think AND you can get non-blurry pictures that way by selecting a low number aperture which forces the camera to set a fast shutter speed. (You might think it would be easier to just set the shutter time to a quick time, but it's not). I've yet to see a currently available P&S digital camera which has a setting for kids and pets or sports or anything which actually gives you a fast shutter consistently. I don't know why the engineers don't seem to understand what we want, but they don't. I know they are trying to avoid the low light complaints we all have, but not ALL pictures are taken in low light. (My apologies for the rant. Just had to get that out I guess).
If you really just want to absolutely stay with automatic P&S cameras, then get one that is A rated on this website. Simply click on the "Price Range" of your choice and begin evaluating the A rated cameras. You won't go wrong. Next try every scene mode on your camera and find the ones that work for YOU. Don't assume that kids and pets is the best setting for YOUR kids and pets!
Good luck, and feel free to ask more questions on this thread as you narrow your choices down. Larry
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed.
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be an answer as well.
So, unless you're going DSLR, I wouldn't fall into the trap of more MP is necessarily better MP. And considering you rarely print anything above 8x10, any extra MP wouldn't be noticed anway. Stick with a good 6MP camera like the Nikon Coolpix L11 or the Canon PowerShot SD630.
Also, unfortunately, if you want a new camera that has generally faster shot to shot times and other advantages which come with the newer designs, you'll probably end up with 7-8 MP anyway. And remember that the "problems" with 12MP cameras are exacerbated by low light but work great in adequate light like outside during the day. I say that only to point out that if you find a camera that does just exactly what you want it to do but it has 12 MP instead of 7-8M, then get it anyway.
The Panasonic TZ3 may give you slightly soft pictures at 8X10, but anything smaller will be very nice. Check out the sample pictures in the gallery for that camera at dpreview.com.
Compared to your current G4, you should be able to find a faster, better camera if you stick to the A rated cameras on this site. Look on the left hand column of this page where it says, "Price Range". Click on 250-300 or 300-350 and stay with A rated cameras. You'll be able to find something you'll be happy with. Once you have your top 3-4 picks, click on "Resources" near the bottom right hand corner of this page and read some reviews AND be sure to look at the sample pictures for your choices. Once you have found a camera that is in your price range, has the features you need for the style of photography you do, and the pictures viewed at full size online are appealing to you, you are ready to go to the store and try them in your hands. Never buy a camera without trying the fit in your hands. that is critical to enjoyable photography, and you may be surprised when you try three different cameras one right after the other how much difference (or not) there is.
Good Hunting (for cameras) and Shooting (great pictures), Larry
Yes, absolutely, "larger prints of noisy pictures are ...noisy". But 4 X 6 prints are not always noisy even if the 20 X 30 view is terrible. Check out this example that shows 100% size which is awful and ordinary size which looks fine, especially for a scrapbook page or a "once in a lifetime" basketball game. forum.digitalcamerareview.c...
There are two basketball pictures part way down the page which shows how good a small "badly noisy" picture can look.
Did you really mean to recommend SD630? It's listed on Amazon at $499 new and is no longer listed on Canon's website. Plus it doesn't have IS. How about SD700is or SD800is both of which are 6MP with IS and the SD800is even has a wide angle lens for good measure.
As I said in a previous thread, the issue is cramming more megapixels into a small CCD surface. It's simple math. More megapixels affects light sensitivity and as such, introduces noise - particularly at high ISO levels or in low light conditions.
Now, the solution is coming as more camera makers will be introducing DSLR chips into point and shoot cameras. This will increase sensitivity and give the added benefit of cutting shutter lag. But until that's the case industry wide, users need to understand that more is not necessarily better. And even a 7MP camera will give you a less noisy image than a 12MP one, not matter who makes it.
And my bad on the 630. I meant the 800.
"the solution is coming as more camera makers will be introducing DSLR chips into point and shoot cameras." Are you serious about this? What do you mean by chip? like the DIGIC III chip in Canons? Or do you mean sensors? As you and I understand, the sensor size is the deciding factor, right? Chips on newer P&S are already the same as DSLR, since P&S still uses smaller sensors, same chips as DSLR does nothing really to help!
And if you are talking about P&S using similar sensors to DSLRs, well, that simply will not happen! The most expensive part in the camera is the sensor!
Nikons usually produces sharper images. Have a look at some of their models in your price range!
Your camera is fine, don't sweat it!
My thought is that it probably did work in your camera. To see if the images are stored on the card, simply plug your camera in directly to your PC after you have snapped a few off. Then pick the ones you want, save them to whatever works on the print station, and then you're all set. Not as easy as Fuji originally intended, mind you.
PANNING is self explanatory in that it is for use when you are trying to photograph something that is moving. I guess that it could be something as simple as that SHOOT ONLY is more power efficient. I would hope that it is more than that. So,...
Given that CONTINUOUS would be your natural preference unless told otherwise, why did they create SHOOT ONLY? What problem does it solve? What are the advantages of one over the other? What are the conditions that each mode was design for?
Thanks for any additional help.
Continuous and shoot only mode are just that. Primary reason being to safe battery power!
On that note, some review sites do mentioned that the results of using each different IS mode will have different outcome (this is also true for when the shot is taken without IS). On the actual different outcome, you will have to test it out for yourself to see any difference.
What the review site have mentioned is that on continuous shooting vs. shoot only, shoot only IS may produce a better stabilized image as the IS mode only kicks in during shooting (in this case, I would think that it is more the photographers' steady hands than it is the camera's IS mode - i.e. in "shoot only" mode, the photographer would usually be trying to hold the camera a little more steadily to composed the image and the IS mode would be more to compensate the camera "shake" due to the pressing of the shutter button).
While in continuous mode, while composing the image, the IS is already working, meaning the photographer's hand may be able to be "more shaking" while composing, hence the actual movement of the camera is more pronounce.
So if you have steady hands, then go with shoot only mode, or even go without the IS?!
To make this work for the paper, you'll have to think about what size they'll be printing the image at - so if they're looking at printing at 4x3, you'd have to have an image that is 800x600 (4 inches * 200 dpi = 800 dots or pixels).
Hope this helps!
Then if you are able to download the photos, you can use the Kodak Easyshare software for editing, if that's what you want.
Either way, Canon's zoombrowser is a capable basic photo editing software, especially the photo stitch software. If you're not using something like Photoshop, Paintshop Pro, etc, then Canon's softwares are not a bad option. Since it's came with you camera, why not just install it and try it out, if you don't like it, you could always uninstall later.
Do you currently have this camera, or are you looking for a camera you can use for these types of photos? If you need a camera, I would recommend purchasing any of the dSLR cameras on this site ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a wide aperture macro lens. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Best is really subjective and depends on what you want to do with your camera. Currently, one of the top rated cameras is the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The Image Stabilization (IS), 8MP resolution, and wider 28mm lens (most are 35mm at the widest), offer great functionality. I have always found the Canon line very user friendly myself.
You can see other favorite compact cameras here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
You might check this out:
cgi.ebay.com/Battery-Charge...
You'll enjoy the spare battery anyway, but if you lost you charger on vacation or something, you'll have to find a camera shop, and chances are they will have to special order the charger.
The thing to remember is that in order to charge the battery you must have the same voltage as the original charger. USB ports only supply 5volts... typically at 500mah or less. If your camera does not allow for the battery to be charged in the camera then it won't matter because you will need an external charger.
Be careful about he type of external charger you buy because lithium batteries are dangerous if charged incorrectly.
That really depends on what size photo you're trying to print. Most cameras take photos sized for a 5"x7" print (dimensions are equivalent to 5x7). If you want to drop down to a 4x6 or move up to an 8x10, then you're going to lose some edges because the dimensions are not equivalent to the 5x7. The only way to get everything in the frame that you want is to actually take a wider photo to start out with. This will allow you some crop room when you want to print your photos. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Its not a question of technology, it is a question of print size and proportions to that print's size. The technology comes in to play when you have a higher resolution print for easier cropping without loss of clarity. The monitor vs. viewfinder argument has nothing to do with the proportions of the print. This may not be the answer you want to hear, but it is the right answer. I always try to leave some extra room around my shots to avoid issues like this. You'll be a happier photographer in the long run if you do the same.
Andrew
The problem you are bumping up against has to do with the proportions of the picture as taken in the camera- typically a ratio of 4 to 3. Newer cameras sometimes allow for 3 to 2 ratio and even 16 to 9 ratio which you probably recognize as the ratio for widescreen TV.
The Canon SD870is will take photos at 4:3 and 16:9 ratios. That is about 1.33 and 1.78. Now if you want to print a picture onto paper, you may want 8X10 which is 1.25; or 7X5 which is 1.4; or 4X6 which is 1.5. If you print at home on your own printer, oftentimes you can set the printer to print the whole picture at the 4:3 ratio BUT is won't come out any of the usual photo print ratios because it can't unless you stretch the picture one way or the other which you don't want to do. That means the only way to get you photo to fit a 10 X 15 print is to crop come of it off. And that means the only choice you have left is which part to crop.
I would suggest you download some free software called Picasa2. It will allow you to crop your photos the way you want it done to whatever size you want to result. then you can send or carry the datafile to your Fuji printer and have them print them up just like you want. Just Google Picasa and download the software that is right for your computer. Play with it a little (it is easy to learn) and then talk to your tech person at the Fuji place. I think you will soon be on track and making the photos you want. The Fuji printer might even be able to print 4:3 prints which will include all the image.
Good luck and don't despair. This problem has solutions. It is up to you to learn what the options are and how to best get what you want. We've all been putting up with this nonsense for a long time because photo paper only comes in certain sizes and that dictates what size standard prints can be made in order to get one, two, three or four prints all on one piece of paper.
thank you mrs nel
Your camera should still be under warranty (if you've owned it less than a year). You should be able to get a warranty repair through Canon's online repair setup ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Good luck.
Andrew
Also, the 20 minute battery they are selling you isn't the Canon battery that comes with the camera. That is why their low, low, low price is so low. they are substituting. I can almost guess that the place is in New York, usually Brooklyn, and they spoke very rudely to you. Forget those guys and get with a decent company that will treat you right. One of the most important parts of a camera is being able to return it if you don't like it without paying a 20-25% fee. Keep looking.
Canon does not offer an instructional video for this camera on this site. There isn't much out there on the web either. You contact AcademicSuperstore.com ( academicsuperstore.com/quic... ) to see if they are making some though.
Andrew
You have a very nice camera there and I think you will be very pleased with the results once you get a little help.
Good Luck.
I'd also check with the iTunes music store for free video podcasts.
I appreciate your response .... I was thinking of a Casio or Pentax ....
Don't know much about cameras but the SD card advice makes sense too !!
Thank you very much ....
Suggest you go to dpreview.com and look up your particular cameras. If dpreview.com has a review of that camera they will have a page on "performance" which will specify the shot to shot times and other timing details.
Note: Be careful of the database on dpreview.com for cameras which have not been fully reviewed. They have lots of mistakes like listing a camera as having 7MP when it really has 8MP. Their full review cameras seem to be reliable.
I purchased a Casio EXILIM EX-Z80 for $200 and a 4GB Ultra fast SD card. I am so very pleased with its refresh time as well as its slim size. It has all of the operational capabilities that I wanted, and am able to digest and utilize. Most important is that it delivers pretty decent pictures with minimal intervention on my part.
I don't take pictures often, so automatic features and simplicity were important.
Again, Thank you all for responding to my query.
1) Low Light quality - How does SD870 rate in this? And are there other comparable cameras that take good pics in low light?
2) Taking pics of toddlers - Canon is known to have low shot to shot performance. How does this camera rate and any better options out there?
I know that Sony assembles its cameras in Japan using parts from Malaysia, Taiwan, etc. I am pretty confident that the same applies to Canon.
If you want to know for sure.... go to the store and look at the bottom of the camera. There should be a reference that tells the final country of assembly.
Now let's add a little more information in order to further detail the specifications on this high quality camera.
Would you have a size preference -- small enough to slip into a shirt pocket, small enough to carry in a jacket pocket, big enough to require a case?
Could you say what you don't like about the Sony you now have?
Do you make prints of your pictures or just view them on the computer or both?
If you make prints, what is the largest size you typically make -- 4 X 6; 5 X 7; 8 X 10; larger?
Do you make a lot of pictures in low light situations indoors?
Does your current Sony have a viewfinder in addition to the LCD, and would you like your new camera to have one?
I look forward to reading your response and trying to assist in narrowing down your camera list.
Larry
I don't care about size
I rarely make prints out of the photos -- if I do, they're never bigger than 4x6
I take a lot of picture indoors
My current Sony cybershot has both a viewfinder and LCD -- I don't really care whether my new camera has a viewfind or not. I would like a bigger LCD than the Sony cybershot has.
Thanks for your help!
First things first -- the best point and shoot (non dSLR) camera made for low light shots is the Fuji F31fd which is sadly no longer being made. However, occasionally you will see a used one for sale so if you happen to be looking on eBay you might give that a try. The only way to beat the F31fd in low light is to get a dSLR.
If you fail to find a Fuji F31fd on eBay we will move on -- Point and shoot cameras have two weak points -- One is that they universally don't do well in low light, and two is that they have shutter lag. Both of these problems can be improved to a point, but they can't match up to a dSLR. Since you refer to yourself as a "terrible photographer", I will tell you that even with a new $500 point and shoot camera you will have to practice some specific techniques to get the shots of the kids and dogs running around indoors. Even then many of them will be throw-aways. The alternative to the point and shoot is a dSLR which has better low light capabilities and minimal shutter lag.
In the point and shoot catagory, I would recommend Canon SD800is which has a wide angle lens which is especially nice for indoor shots when you can't just keep backing up a little more to get the whole scene in the shot. The Canon A720is and SD870is are both nice also but don't have the wide angle lens. The Canon S5is is bigger but has lots of capabilities including zooming during video.
For a dSLR you might look at the Olympus 420 which is not much more expensive than a Canon G9 and has live view on the LCD.
Wait at least a week before marking any answers as "Best Answer". That way we won't discourage anyone from jumping in and helping.
What the Canon SD870is doesn't have is a viewfinder.
I mentioned the S5is as having "zoom during video" capabilities since that can substitute nicely for the shutter lag problem with active kids/pets/others. When subjects and/or objects are flying everywhere in the room, a zoomable video covers everything except the still shots. While video takes up more space on the memory card, it can be a great memory keeper on the computer. My PDA even allows video from my camera to be downloaded so I can show video of the grandchildren to relatives (and random passersby!). It is really difficult for a still shot to show the story of a 3 year old trying to stand on her head repeatedly.
I don't know anything about the video on the Olympus 420.
Thanks again
Diane
Yes, the Olympus 420 is just released and unfortunately no pro reviews are up yet that I can find.
Confused is actually good when camera shopping because there are so MANY choices out there. Just keep at it though and it will begin to sort out eventually. There are a lot of choices but not an infinity of choices. :)
the best digital camera for you is a panasonic tz3 .
take a look at the great photo set that marie&andy shot with a tz3
flickr.com/photos/andymarie...
factory settings are on camera but when i download the pics to my computer, they are huge files and can't be sent. how can i make them smaller either on the camera or the computer?
Now you have two methods to use plus lots more "toys" to play with.
I've e-mailed someone at DCHQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) directly with the request. I'll let you know what I find out.
Andrew
I've been informed that there was no in-depth review done on the Canon SD 850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You can find user reviews at this link here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
An in-depth revew was done on the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and it can be found here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Andrew
But that's true with all point and shoots, frankly.
the 870 also has a more scratch proof 3" digital screen instead of the easy to scratch lcd screen. Personally I want to 5x optical zoom, but having looked at the 870 today, the wide angle pics are nice. I am expecting the 890 in the mail tomorrow. The later batch of canons has had a simulated wide angle feature that in my mind makes the 890 the better camera. Bigger lens, BIGGER Flexibility, all that said the 200SX is the best option out there 12x optical and a wideangle lens together -- woot !
The canon is much better in the ratings but if you enjoy using the Kodak then that may be better for you overall. A camera is only as good as its user so if you enjoy using the Kodak more than the Canon then it might be the best way to go for you.
2. great quality images - I will be shooting my baby alot and want something that can take pictures fast so I can catch the moment when it happens
3. I also want to get into blogging home design so I would like something with a wide angle lens that allows me to capture the entirety of a room
4. My husband also blinks in pictures - is there a camera that will recognize if someones eyes are closed and retake the picture?
what I dont need -
I wont be making large prints
1. you need a camera that is of a size you hold well ,slim or shiny will be of liitle use
2, you neeed a camera with a good anti shake system.
3. you need a camera with special baby modes wihich allow you to capture your baby in action
4. you need a cmera with a fast reaction time to take photo between the blinks
the camera you need is the panasonic lz5 . it is not latest thing. as such it can be bought for around $150
steves-digicams.com/2006_re...
bhphotovideo.com/bnh/contro...
Unfortunately the camera you are seeking is not in production.
1. For image stabilization you want a camera with "Optical Stabilization".
2. There are a number of cameras that will take quality pictures, however none of them take instant pictures due to the fact the camera has to focus the shot. Usually the lower the light the longer it takes to focus.
3. The Nikon S550 will tell you if the subject closed their eyes, but will not retake the picture, and I would not recommend this camera.
Panasonic, Sony and Canon are probably your best bets. Why do you want a sub-compact? Compact cameras for most part will out perform the subs in speed and image quality.
This site has a lot of camera reviews, and rather that read the full reviews just select the Conclusion section in the box. steves-digicams.com/hardwar...
Another site for comparing various cameras is: imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...
You can pick two cameras, then scroll down to "still life 200" on each camera and click the picture twice and compare the picture quality of the two you selected.
After you find a number of cameras that you like, someone may be able to give you some guidance.
Both SD and SDHC cards work with this camera, so the 8GB SDHC will work. I'm a big fan of the SanDisk cards because of their quality.
Andrew
Thank you for responding to my question. I actually got a 4gb SDHC Ultra II card and reader today on sale for 39.00 regular $59.00. I thought that was pretty good. If you had said the SDHC wasn't for my camera I would have returned it. Thanks again and take care!
Marissa
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any other questions or issues. Enjoy your camera.
Andrew
Although, I believe the SD800 has been discontinued.
And yes, sometimes newer doesn't mean better. Then again, more megapixels don't mean better either ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ).
The Canon 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does look nice, but it does not come with the manual controls you are looking for. The 950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does come with the manual controls and a higher resolution at 12 MP.
That 12 MP can cause write speed issues and could slow down the interval between shots. You might be better off with a 8MP compact camera like the Canon SD1100 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has the manual features, the same LCD screen, and will run you almost $100 less.
Andrew
The battery life on these will be comprable. If you go with an optical viewfinder instead of using the LCD, you'll have an even longer battery life. Just an option.
Andrew
Either camera should be fine to last you a while. I still have a Canon SD230 that I purchased over 6 years ago.
Andrew
Thanks for the assist on that. I didn't think there would be much trouble with a faster card like that.
Andrew
imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...
Canon releases upgrades once or twice a year. The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) was released in October of 2007. I would expect an upgrade at the 12MP or higher range to come out this fall or early next year. I'm not sure you want to wait that long though. Good luck.
Andrew
need a sturdy and easy to use camera with good picture quality
for family use
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
I am a big fan of the Canon cameras (I currently own 3). That being said, this Sony W170 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) looks impressive. If you're just looking to play around with the camera on trips, the difference between 8 and 10 MP is not going to be huge. What will be a big difference is the optical zoom. The W170 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has 5x optical vs the 3.8x on the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the 3x on the Canon SD790 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The ISO range on the W170 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also a lot higher, wich will help adjust for lower lighting situations. This looks to be the camera I would pick for what you want to use it for. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Sony: Lens Aperture F/3.3-5.2
Canon sd870: Lens Aperture F/2.8-5.8
1. more than 5x joom (i like 10x joom)
2. sony brand
3. best picture in low light
While both of these cameras are very good, you might have better luck with the auto and aided features available on the Sony W150 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). With two types of face priority technology and the "smile-shutter" feature that takes photos when your subject smiles, it might be a better camera for capturing a child's smile. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
but i still need more advice before i select the camera
What other questions do you have? What other situations do you plan on using your camera in? Will there be a lot of outdoor use, or indoor family gathering type pictures? Will you be traveling with the camera? Let me know, and I can better advise you on your camera purchase.
Andrew
the camera is pretty much for taking pictures for indoor family gathering but i will also carry it around on picnics and vaccation. some advice would be helpful, cause i have no clue wich one to choose.
From using different cameras, I favor the Canons. They have very sharp photos in a variety of situations, and I have found them very easy to use. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I am going to use this camera for a general purpose and not for a specific activities. If you can suggest some other cameras which are better than these then it would be great help for me.
Hoping to get an early response.
Uday
The newer SD790 has Optical Image Stabilization, Motion Detection technology, Hi-ISO Auto and Noise Reduction technology which, according to Canon helps to reduce blurry pictures. The face detection technology has an AF Point Zoom feature that enlarges the face of the main subject on the screen to make it easy to determine when to take the shot. As far as the Noise Reduction technology goes, someone else needs to comment on this. I know that I can reduce noise in PhotoShop however it also reduces the sharpness of the image. This feature can be turned on or off and I would probably set it to off.
The 870 also has optical image stabilization to reduce blur and the Hi Iso features. Additionally the 870 offers a 28mm-105mm zoom where the 790 only has a 35mm-105mm zoom. For taking indoor shots the 28mm is a plus.
I appreciate your Dilemma, its a tough choice. I guess if money is not a factor get the SD790 and if you want to save a few dollars go for the SD870. If you took shots with both cameras I doubt that you would see any difference in the output. Additionally a 10mp camera will not necessarily take sharper pictures that an 8mp camera.
Sorry I can't give a definitive answer, both cameras get good reviews. You might want to check this site out. It has camera reviews and a section where you can compare side by side shots taken with different cameras.
imaging-resource.com/
Let me explain. I came across an interesting article today about how more mega pixels is not necessarily a good thing. According to Image Engineering ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) – a company that does testing of digital cameras for photo magazines in Germany – the quality of digital pictures has steadily decreased since the state of the art was six megapixels back in 2004. And because they don’t have a “dog in this hunt,” they put forth a compelling argument for buying new digital cameras with less mega pixels and not more.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
Another option is to use one of the cameras programmed presets.
I like the large 3 inch screen on the 870 but am not fond of the fact that the zoom is located on top where the shutter button is. Other than that I like the look of it.
I also like the option of the wide lens.
No big complaint on the Sony but which is the better buy? I know Canon is good and have found good reviews on the 870 but have not found many reviews on the Sony. Which is the better made more reliable camera?
My previous camera was a Fuji almost 3 years old. My CCD sensor went out a couple of months ago and Fuji cannot get the part so I'm hunting for a new camera.
In my opinion, it's a good idea to steer clear of SONY, as they tend to force their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, their own spin on formatting, cables and a host of others which the Canon won't do. Canon relies on SD cards, which are pretty much the standard in point and shoot for memory cards. This means you can use any you happen to currently have and they are much cheaper than memory sticks. You can also use them in other technologies like Camcorders, PDAs, DMPs, and even mp3 players no matter who makes them (save Sony), whereas that memory stick is only going to be used in another SONY.
However, prejudices aside, for comparison, let's check out this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP... ). It takes pictures with each and you can compare them side by side.
Doing so, I find that a) Canon has a slightly better macro, b) sharper images, and c) more natural colors in sunlight, with the exception of a slight clarity advantage on the SONYs behalf indoors using a flash. But where the Canon really falls apart is at higher ISOs above 800, where the SONY really pulls ahead with less noise, although again, I found more detail in the Canon image at 1600 ISO.
Ind the end, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by
side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
My biggest drawback with the Sony has been the memory stick.
my choice would be the lumix tz3 it is small light and has a great zoom
the updated model is useful if you need to zoom whilst using the video
below are links to flickr albums showing the tz3 in use in various locations
flickr.com/photos/cornybear...
flickr.com/photos/amyandsar...
flickr.com/photos/peterdais...
Though I like the reviews I've read on the Canon 870 I'm hesitant because I've also read that it has issues with Windows XP. I went to the Canon site and they confirmed that sometimes it has issues and would need to disconnect any other devices that use a USB other than the mouse or keyboard. Also some reviews state it has a metal body, some say its plastic. When I looked at it in the store it looks plastic to me. I prefer a metal body. I do like the 3 inch screen though and how quick it performs.
Now for the Fuji f50. I like it up to a point. I'm hesitant because it has 12mp and that takes away from the performance or so I have read. It is suppose to have a metal body according to the reviews I've read. I hear the F31 is better but they are not available at a price I want to pay. The F50 has some good and some not so good reviews. I would love to look at one in the stores but I can't find any retailer that stocks them, another reason I'm hesitant.
So what I want in a camera is good pictures, low light, closeup (especially important), and outdoor pictures. I also don't want a lot of shutter lag and would prefer to have a metal body. To me the plastic body cameras just look cheap. I want at least 6mp.
So which one of these would be my better pick OR is there something else I should consider? I previously owned a Fuji F460 which took good pictures, was easy to use and had a metal body. My CCD went out so hence the reason I am camera hunting. I know Fuji and Canon are the better made cameras so that is why I was leaning towards them.
my choice is the panasonic tz5
3 inch screen
metal body
9 .1mega pixels
10x optical zoom
hd video
great macro mode see link
flickr.com/photos/respres/2...
low light
flickr.com/photos/ben-spenc...
exif details
Camera: Panasonic DMC-TZ5
Exposure: 0.125 sec (1/8)
Aperture: f/3.3
Focal Length: 4.7 mm
ISO Speed: 400
I checked out the Panasonic TZ5 in the store and I must say I am impressed. Thanks for the suggestion.
One thing I don't like about Canon is the LCD tends to smudge up alot. The body material looks cheap to me and it's hard to hold them with one hand if needed without grabbing buttons or screen.
Check out the panasonic TZ5 as well, it is a bit larger but still takes great pics, has an intellegent mode and the screen doesn't smudge up as bad. It is also easier to hold one handed if need be and has a great zoom. The body looks sturdy and not cheap.
If your set on a Canon though I'd go with the SD870.
Good luck with your camera hunt.
But there are ways to combat it.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Doing these, particularly prefocusing and panning with the action will cut your shutter lag by as much as 80%.
the 870 is not suitable for this type of use .
it only has a 3.8 optical zoom .
it does not have wide screen hd video.
it is made of plastic in parts.
it does not have low dispersion conversion lenses.
my choice for this type of photography is the panasonic lumix tz5.
dpreview.com/reviews/panaso...
here is a link to album showing a cactus flower shot by a tz5
flickr.com/photos/8038353@N...
You dont need a super zoom or HD video when shooting outside.
The 870IS offer a 28mm that capture more than a normal 35mm.
Regarding the TZ5, I tried this camera for a week and was disapointed
not only with slow focus and noise in the pictures, but also regarding
the quality of picture.
I think you'll find that either will work for you quite nicely.
You might have a tricky time finding a slim camera with a good zoom, as you probably know already. Most slim cameras tend to be in the 3-4x zoom range, and after that they jump into extended zooms and the bodies get a lot bigger. But I do want to suggest the Olympus Stylus 840 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I have an earlier model of this camera and have been very happy with it; speedy, nice color reproduction, dependable, very easy to use.
In terms of batteries, cameras either come with their own batteries (often lithium-ion) or they call for AAs. If they call for AAs, definitely buy rechargeable AAs rather than using regular ones; camera life will be much better. Comparing lithium-ion vs. rechargeable AAs is often a toss-up, but in general, the ones that come with the camera (lithium-ion) are longer lasting, it seems.
Thanks for your answer, but I misspelled a word. I should have said "at least 5 optical zoom" not "less". Sorry! :-( Any more ideals?
It's okay; I did actually figure that was what you meant. :) The Stylus I linked has 5x zoom, and really anything with more zoom than that would be a bulkier camera. I guess the question is if you can sacrifice a bit of size for more zoom?
I'm not so sure about the Olympus brand cameras. I've heard that they are good and I've seen them in stores. What advice do you have for these brands: Canons, Pentax and Sony? Is Kodak or Nikon good? (Kodak is not to high on my list either). My old camera is a HP Photosmart 945. It has a 5.3 MP, 8x optical zoom and 7x digital zoom. (I don't use the digital zoom). It measures about 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 3 1/4" and weights 9.6 oz. w/o batteries. I use 4 Photo lithium batteries with it. It's a wonderful camera, takes great pictures. But............. We went on vacation in May to Disney World and I carried it around for 5 days. Too BIG AND HEAVY, so on day 6 I left it at the resort. I missed out on alot of good pictures! So now I'm looking for a smaller camera to carry in my purse (or pocket) and not have to have a special bag just for the camera. The camera bag I have now is about half the size of my purse I carry. :-)
Thanks for taking the time to help me find a good camera.
Jane
In my opinion, Canon is the best point and shoot. Obviously that's just my opinion, and other people's mileage may vary, but I've developed it after testing and playing with numerous cameras. They have a pretty big customer base in basic consumers, and they are providing what seem to be really reliable cameras that are easy to use and produce good results. I usually look at it this way: basically every other manufacturer has made a point and shoot camera that I advise people to avoid. All of them have one or more "duds" in their lineup.... except for Canon.
On the other hand, the good news is that a lot of them make good cameras, too, so provided you're buying something you've researched, your chances of being happy are pretty good. As long as you're not buying a "known dud," you know?
The issue is really going to be that zoom. All of the Canon pockets I would point you towards tend to have zooms in the 3x-4x range. My current favorite is probably the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ); however, it has a 3.8 optical zoom which will probably disappoint you.
I do suggest taking a look at the Panasonic Lumix TZ5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Panasonic cameras in the past have maybe had a reputation for not performing very well in low light, but I haven't heard that complaint in many years, and in fact considering the good reviews (click on that link to read some) I'm seriously considering this camera myself. It's pretty much the only pocket model I'm aware of with a zoom that strong.
There are other cams with good zooms - here's a nice list:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
But the bodies tend NOT to be pocket-sized!
Thanks for all your help. I can now go into stores knowing alittle more about the different cameras. Thanks again!
Jane
It's me again, Jane. While I was looking at some cameras yesterday, I took another look at the olympus cameras. I have to change my thoughts on them. Now I'm leaning more for either the Olympus Stylus 1010 or the 840. The question I have now is about the memory card. The 1010 is compatible with the microSD/xD-Picture card and the 840 is compatible with the xD-picture card. Which is better? The only card I've used is the SD memory card (512 MB). Also, which camera would you recommend?
Thanks again for all your help!!!!!!
Jane
I think it's pretty much a wash between these two memory cards; either one, as long as it's functioning properly, will do fine for you. I would make your purchase based on which camera seems best to you; and really, since you've mentioned zoom being an issue, the 1010 seems like a really great deal. It is getting excellent reviews and has a lot of great features like image stabilization, face detection, et al. If that 7x zoom speaks to you, I'd feel perfectly comfortable pointing you towards the 1010. The 840 is also excellent; I've used it and loved it. So I'd choose based on specs; I think you'll be happy in either situation!
I finally got around and bought a Canon 890. I tried it and didn't like it. I took it back today and got a Sony Cybershot 170. I'm waiting on the battery to charge to try it out. It was a toss up between the 170 and the Olympus Stylus 1010. I guess if I don't like the 170 I'll try the 1010. Thanks for all your help!
You're right; there are LOTS of positives and negs to every camera, depending on who you talk to. My advice is to look for repeated complaints about a model; a single person dissatisfied against a whole crowd of people who didn't notice the same problem tends to show you that it's a matter of personal taste more than a true problem with the camera.
Can I recommend the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )? Reviews are fantastic and Canons are my personal favorites when it comes to low light shooting, fast operation, and good battery life. I also recently reviewed the SD790 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and was really, really pleased with it.
Great pics. I am bumped around a lot in mosh pits; I don't want to drop it. Stabilization required. I have bad eyes, so big LCD. Easy to use; I don't have much experience with cameras. Want video on it too. It would be great if music wasn't muffled. Lots of memory. I take a lot of pics and videos. Which camera should I get? Not really worried about price. Will also be taking family pictures with it but mostly concerts.
But at 9mp, it's rapidly swallowing the myth that "more MP is better." It isn't. I came across an interesting article today about how more mega pixels is not necessarily a good thing. According to Image Engineering ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) – a company that does testing of digital cameras for photo magazines in Germany – the quality of digital pictures has steadily decreased since the state of the art was six megapixels back in 2004. And because they don’t have a “dog in this hunt,” they put forth a compelling argument for buying new digital cameras with less mega pixels and not more.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. Particularly in low light at higher ISOs. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures.
The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better." In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
And sinc 99% of your shots are going to be snapshots anyway, the larger MP is largely lost because you won't even see the extra MP at that size.
That Powershot SD870 is closer to that 6mp sweet spot and is quite small. Highly rated, it's a fine camera for your purpose.
Video length has a limit of 4GB file size. If you record at 640 x 480 that will mean about 32 minutes of video. If you turn down the quality (use Long Play mode) it'll double that time to about an hour but the video won't be as good/ quality will be more compressed.
it is not a cannon. it is the panasonic tz5
You guys are more than welcome to suggest any good model that I might have missed out.
Right off the bat, I'd eliminate the SD870. Too much MP. CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality.
Then, looking at the other two, the SD1100 does have a viewfinder, which I prefer because larger LCDs simply eat up battery power. The SD1100 also has a longer focal length. Other than that, they're the same camera as far as I can see.
than postcard ??
Bob Bennett
Knoxville, Tn
Another option may be to connect it to a Canon Printer ... IIRC, there may be a date printing option in the PictBridge utility to add the date.
embed date on each individual photo image. I am not interested in adding date after images have been
down loaded to hard drive. For any of you still interested, Canon has a toll-free number
1-866-261-9362. dvoge brought up good question, "What are disadvantages to shooting in postcard mode"?
Thanks everyone for your input
than the canon 870, so I haven't used it very often since I purchased the canon 870. The Kodak is an
excellent camera and takes great pics.
I have windows VISTA. What are my options??
I used Vista and -Rs with no trouble now. But initially, I was making coaster after coaster.
As for using the only XP, that's nonsense. Once the pictures are on your PC, it doesn't matter what your OS is.
In short...are factory digital camera refurbs worth the cost savings or is it best to buy new ?
Thanks in advance for your help, opinions, and musings.
-All the best,
Chris
The end result is people usually opt to buy new cameras rather than to repair it, which is not the case of top audios.
Although James always said ' your mileage may be different ', I still feel a better option is to buy a less expensive model or wait for the Christmas sale.
Thanks for answering me.
hello Bob
photoshopessentials.com/pho...
have a look at this
flickr.com/photos/48891180@...
if you taken the settings, of the exif data it may help
However, in the end - you may just be running into the limitations of the camera. A point and shoot with aperture priority or manual capability is better suited to the kind of effects you're looking to do.
Other than that, you may want to try Adobe Photoshop Elements. You may be able to digitally manipulate the waterfall to appear to be blurry ....
Thanks. I started looking today at SLR's. Any suggestions on an affordable, fully functioned SLR, say in the $500 range?
For $500 you can get a entry level dslr from canon
entry-level-dslr-camera-rev...
or you can buy a top of the range compact from panasonic lumix
trustedreviews.com/digital-...
This is an awesome camera by the way!
If these things don't work, then Canon Repair is your next email. Is it still under warranty?