Hey! You should know that Canon has released a newer version of this product: the Canon Powershot SD1300 IS.
Canon Powershot SD950 IS
Editor's Review
This is an old model, and has since been replaced by several new cameras. The most recent update is the SD1300. Here's what we had to say when the SD950 was released in October 2007:
We're big fans of the Canon SD ultracompact line as it is, but the Canon SD950 IS might be their most appealing model yet. It's a slim, trim compact camera cast in a titanium body that's both durable and stylish. Inside that metal shell, there's a big 12 megapixel CCD, giving users high-levels of detail and the ability to make larger and larger digital prints. Thankfully, Canon has finally seen fit to include Image Stabilization in all their new cameras, and the SD950 IS surely benefits from it.
Editor's Review
This is an old model, and has since been replaced by several new cameras. The most recent update is the SD1300. Here's what we had to say when the SD950 was released in October 2007:
We're big fans of the Canon SD ultracompact line as it is, but the Canon SD950 IS might be their most appealing model yet. It's a slim, trim compact camera cast in a titanium body that's both durable and stylish. Inside that metal shell, there's a big 12 megapixel CCD, giving users high-levels of detail and the ability to make larger and larger digital prints. Thankfully, Canon has finally seen fit to include Image Stabilization in all their new cameras, and the SD950 IS surely benefits from it.
Specifications
- 12.1 megapixels
- 3.7x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
- Movie mode with sound
- JPEG file format
- Lens-shift image stabilization
- Auto focus
- Auto and manual exposure
- ISO 80-1600
- 2.5-inch LCD display
- Secure Digital memory (32MB card included)
- Lithium-ion battery
- Part Number: SD950IS
- UPC: 013803086225
- Release Date: Oct 15, 2007
Shop for SD950 IS Accessories
Canon Powershot SD950 IS Comments & Questions (write your own!)
When in flash modes, the 'flash ready' light never lights, and when the shutter release is pressed, the on-screen flash indicator just blinks, and no picture is taken. When it wants to flash, it simply will NOT take any photo, as it's waiting for the flash to be ready, and it never is. Once switched to 'no flash' mode, it takes normal pics as well as ever.
I've tried resetting via the 'reset all' menu, just in case I'd somehow managed to freeze out the flash through a setting, but nothing changes. I've also tried a brand-new out of the box battery, in case there's a charging problem. No change.
Any suggestions? It's well out of warranty, and I'd hate to have to replace it if it's not absolutely necessary.
If your memory card is broken unfortunately,Please take it ease,Let me help you!These are eleven major problems and solutions of memory card as follows.
One: put the memory card in the computer to identify. On the cell phone it does not recognize!!
This situation is often because the memory card formats on the computer, but the format is not compatible with the mobile phone. Solutions are put the card right back into the cell phone and use cell phone the "format memory card" function of the cell phone to reformat!!
Two: mobile phone tips "pull out the memory card, press OK" . pull out will follow the prompts and pull out the card and the insert it into the cell phone,you will be able to continue to use the cell phone, but soon it has prompted to pull back the card, so repeatedly!!
This is because of often plugging a memory card, it results in loosening of bad cell phone memory card slot. You can consider going to the customer service about cell phone repair, and pay attention to hot-swappable cards not too much force .
Three: memory card password is lost, memory card file is very important!!
Download and install MMspwd software, after run the software, we can see a row of garbled, garbled interval shows in figure or in English is password!!
Four: the read and write speed of MMC card is more and more slow, much less than just bought .They are the same storage devices, the MMC memory card in the mobile phone is the same as in the computer .After a period of time it will appear the debris disk which will affect the read and write speed because of frequent delete and copy. however, hard disk format is FAT32 or NTFS, the MMC mobile card is FAT16.Therefore, the mobile phone through the computer's Disk Defragmenter will often occur a series of errors, serious error will occur in the MMC card inserted in the mobile phone.
In fact, we only need to copy MMC card hidden files and format the card and then copy the files into it.
Five: when plug memory card in mobile phone, it can not open the page, but it can when pull out!!
Unable to open web pages, or "network" without reflecting,since there are probably caused by the input method. Switch back to the original input method for solving the problem !!
SIX: MMC card of 1GBYTE, 600MB is copyed into the document, and then on computer is not possible to remove the memory card safely, so remove it, after put the memory card into the mobile phone, it displays "card in order to damage", such as in computer card connector, the computer does not recognize ! The memory card, which is disposable copy of the information of large capacity , occasionally can not be removed after the memory card of the situation,
it is recommended after the copy when separate groups of copy,If the cell phone memory card with the computer does not recognize, it could be: A: on client computer, use the FAT16 format to format. B: use force format tool MMCMEDIC to repair C: format the memory card directly in the mobile phone.
seven: when format the memory card, it shows "memory card to be used" .
To restart the mobile phone ,the problem is still there.Try to follow these steps: Shut down ----reswap memory card --- --- boot
EIGHT: A lot of procedures of the cell phone can not be normal operation. When the mobile phone is connected with memory card, it shows'"memory card does not exist and can not connect! "
'The situation is likely to be caused by the change of the name of memory card , resulting in procedural mistakes, as long as replacing the names of memory card in bulk everywhere in the registry in the computer notebookis OK!!
Nine: It shows "Can not use" after reformat the memory czrd.
First check whether the use of format is FAT32 format or not, if it is using FAT16 format, the problem still exists, you can try the computer system at the "Disk Utility" to repair .
Ten: multimedia photos, video files placed in the memory card can't be found suddenly .
Use memory card reader to connect with the computer, to determine their letter, open the computer's "Start" menu, select Run, press enter after type "CMD ", in the MS-DOS command, enter" VCHKDSK H: / F "
Eleven:put memory card in the reader, after the connection,nothing reflects on the computer, and then two situations arise: A: it prompts computer memory card can not be read by. B: Wait for a long time and lose patience, and unplug the memory card , computer displays inoperable memory card!!!
check whether the card reader is well plugged!! No,change another reader or on the format ,and then still no,only the replacement of permit!
This is my experience and my approach. Hope everyone can get some help from it.
Function > Recording Pixels > Post card
Step two sets the date to on/off :
Record Menu > Date off/on.
Date stamp is set to off by default and there is no way to remove the date once it is stamped on the picture.
I am really confused in regard to which camera should i buy for myself. I have seen reviews of SonyT70, cannon SD950 IS, Cannon SX1100, cannon sd 790 and a few more and am confused all the more. I somehow have a bend towards cannon because of its picture qualities.
I am looking for a camera with the following specifications
1. atleast auto and manual functions if not lens focus
2. atleast 3.5+ optical zoom, the more the better
3. i am more of a on the go clicker, i click ppl, places, landscapes, roads, cars, parties, individual leaves, stones,trees, sky etc etc. Bottomline i click everything that i like the first go
4. I dont really print the pictures in sizes 8'x10' so ISO should not be that big a problem i guess
5. price $300-$400
6. sleek body nothing bulky
7. Megapixels as i undersatnd does not play that big a part but yeah something like 10 would be great
Bottomline i am looking for the best camera with best pictures and maximum features that my budget can get me
Any help will be great
Thanks
But again, Sher, you're falling into the "more MP is better" trap. It most definitely isn't. I only mention the G9 because it has a larger chip to accomodate the extra MP. But most, including those you mention, have smaller CCD chips which means more MP is stuffed into them, making them LESS sensitive to light, not more. As such, you end up with more noise in low light situations. Not to mention clarity and diffraction issues due to small focal lengths.
my choice for this is a panasonic tz3 or the 2008 model tz5 if you need the hd video facility.
a 2 gb sd memory card is a good investment./
cameralabs.com/reviews/Pana...
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
And if your Casio is working just fine, why fix what ain't broke?
For the wide angle lens the extra capacity factor was .5x and for the telephoto lens was 1.5x.
Andrew
Thanks !!
my choice would be the panasonic lumix tz3
it is light and has a great 10 x zoom and a very good is system
here is alink to a flickr album of notre dame de paris
flickr.com/photos/chaotictr... one from the louvre
flickr.com/photos/bryan1974...
I never had the same image quality with my older canon p & s.
YOu recommended panasonic lumix tz3 and I have several questions for you.
How does it work without the viewfinder on a bright, sunny day? Is TZ5 comparable to TZ3?
thanks,
Anna
the large 3 inch screen has the facility to brighten about 40% it can then be used in sunny conditions
go to a specialised camera shop try different cameras with or without view finder find what feels right for you
have a look at this flickr album
flickr.com/photos/theadvent... tz5 is the 2008 model but adds little to the tz3
the newfeatures are high definition video and the ability to zoom when in video mode
I want to buy an easy to use camera and after research would like to have 8+ megapixles, 4+ zoom, stabilization, good photos in dark lit places, red eye correction, decent battery life and nice wide angle photos. I will be traveling overseas and plan to take photos outside and inside, sometimes on short notice. I looked at Panasonic Lumix fz18, you seem to like lumix tz3, or canon sd 950 is, sd890 or sd790 also read about canon sd 110is. Price is not a major factor. so I would really welcome your response. Thanks.
the tz3 is a great camera i have one myself
it has a 10x optical zoom which can be extended to 13x and great wide angle photos
it also has widescreen video at 848 x 480
flickr.com/photos/sebaposto...
i would appreciate a quick response...
Great thanks in advance!!!
Check out the website dpreview.com
Plenty of ideas shared by novice and professional photographers.
The Canon 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does look nice, but it does not come with the manual controls you are looking for. The 950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does come with the manual controls and a higher resolution at 12 MP.
That 12 MP can cause write speed issues and could slow down the interval between shots. You might be better off with a 8MP compact camera like the Canon SD1100 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has the manual features, the same LCD screen, and will run you almost $100 less.
Andrew
The battery life on these will be comprable. If you go with an optical viewfinder instead of using the LCD, you'll have an even longer battery life. Just an option.
Andrew
Either camera should be fine to last you a while. I still have a Canon SD230 that I purchased over 6 years ago.
Andrew
Thanks for the assist on that. I didn't think there would be much trouble with a faster card like that.
Andrew
imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...
Canon releases upgrades once or twice a year. The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) was released in October of 2007. I would expect an upgrade at the 12MP or higher range to come out this fall or early next year. I'm not sure you want to wait that long though. Good luck.
Andrew
the best camera for use in these conditions is the pentax optio w30
photographyblog.com/reviews...
If you want a Canon, the waterproof case is how you need to go.
Taking them head to head, they can be quite close, but I prefer the bolder colors and clarity of the Canon. And you don't have to pay for the SONY nameplate or deal with proprietary technologies that are the hallmark of an overpriced SONY model.
Just FYI, 7MP is plenty for the 8 X 10 inch enlargements you mentioned as long as you don't crop too severely.
IMHO, the Canon models win over Sony.
Check out the specifications of your Canon choices at
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... they differ significantly in details such as frames per second in continuous shot mode, maximum zoom, etc....
Tracey C.
The 950 gives you a little more zoom (3.7X) and slightly faster continuous shot mode (1.5 fps).
The 1100 gives a little advantage on the Macro mode (3cm) versus 5cm on the 950.
In this case you can choose the 950 at 12MP OR the 1100 at 8MP and still get basically the same (or at least very very close) image quality since the 12MP CCD sensor on the 950 is just larger in size to maintain roughly the same physical pixel size.
All things being equal be certain to handle both cameras and try out the controls for ease of use and feel in your hands--very important.
Also, be sure to check out the difference in the viewfinders. It appears to me that the viewfinder on the 1100 may be smaller and less easily viewed through. The service and Returnability can be critical. Some stores will let you try one camera at home and if you don't like it, they will let you trade it in with full credit on the other model. Also, now that you have it down to just two models, you can go to the store and take 10 or 20 pictures with each camera and have them printed up for a few dollars. Maybe even a few enlargements. That will give you all the info you need to be happy with your choice.
Good Luck.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
I'd go with the 1100.
PowerShot SD950 IS - Americas
Digital IXUS 960 IS - Europe
IXY Digital 2000 IS - Japan
This is basically a marketing ploy. These stores are listing cameras this way in order to create confusion for the buyer. They want you to call for clarification and then sell you a camera while you are on the phone. Usually you will be told the Japanese model does not come with a battery, charger or warranty - which is not true. These sales gimmicks are scams, so stay away from these companies because in the end you will pay more for the camera. Most often they are going to sell you a substandard SD card at an inflated price. If you don't buy something like a 150x or ultra III card you will be unhappy with your camera.
Canon does not ship cameras without batteries or chargers because off brand batteries can damage the camera, and they do not want to fix it under warranty. Also Canons warranties are world wide, so if you buy one sold in Japan it is still covered in the US.
And I wouldn't say that using something slower than an ULTRA III will make you unhappy with the camera, but you should buy the fastest writing cards you can afford. Understanding that a chain is as strong as it's weakest (Or in this slowest) link.
They come in the same box with the same goodies as the US version. A lot of this is purely marketing hype, call the store and ask about the difference, and they will tell you that you should buy the US market version for More Money. It is doubtful that they even have these cameras in stock, I know that 86 Street Photo & Video doesn't and a couple more stores that I called.
Before the internet the cameras had the same designation in the US, Europe and Japan. With every one ordering off the internet companies are using different names to help protect retailers in the various countries. For instance someone in Japan couldn't order a IXY Digital from a US store because they couldn't find it sold in the US; unless they did some research. I was in Taiwan last year and was going to buy a laptop but found out I can buy them cheaper in the good old US
Manufacturers may refuse to honor the warranty of an item purchased from grey-market sources, on the grounds that the higher price on the non-grey market reflects a higher level of service. Alternatively, they may provide the warranty service only from the manufacturer's subsidiary in the intended country of import, not the diverted third country where the grey goods are ultimately sold by the distributor or retailer. This response to the grey market is especially evident in electronics goods ...
and
Due to the nature of local warranty, importers of grey sets usually mask the flaw in warranty with their own warranty schemes. These are often warranties with reduced benefits or lasting a shorter period of time.
Grey sets do not differ particularly from an authorised import. They look and function identically, apart from the manufacturer's warranties having been voided.
However the IXY would have to be sent to Japan for warranty.
She said they changed this to prevent companies from buying cameras at a cheaper price in one country and then underselling other dealers in their own.
I'm not sure which camera you are referring to with the SD 960 IS; it is not on this site or Canon's.
The Canon IXY 2000 IS is a version of the SD 950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) sold outside of the US. In Europe and Australia, Canon calls this camera line the IXY. Other than the name, they are the same.
Andrew
Andrew
I'm just overwhelm with all the reviews and totally confused. Going out of town next week to see the grand kids and need to get the best camera I can, with very little time to learn but will still take great action shots
I like the functionality of the Canon A650 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) better. It has manual exposure controls, twice the optical zoom, and it costs a lot less. While it is a little bigger, it seems more versatile.
Andrew
I'm glad we could help. If you feel we have answered your answer sufficiently, please mark best answer. If not, I would be glad to answer any other questions you might have. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
For picture quality, I think there's too much MP in the SD1000 to work with. Let me explain. I came across an interesting article today about how more mega pixels is not necessarily a good thing. According to Image Engineering ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) – a company that does testing of digital cameras for photo magazines in Germany – the quality of digital pictures has steadily decreased since the state of the art was six megapixels back in 2004. And because they don’t have a “dog in this hunt,” they put forth a compelling argument for buying new digital cameras with less mega pixels and not more.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
Setting your camera to a lower setting doesn't help either. Essentially, the image is reduced to the set quality after it has been processed by the CCD. As such, the light still goes through those pixels, only that after some basic processing steps pixels "thrown out" to make the image to the desired setting and size. This process is called "Choking" and that will cause Artifacting and noise. Additionlly, you'll also loose details of the recorded image.
Some cameras have written into their firmware a process called "binning," which merges the signals of multiple pixels to make larger pixels. Usually at a 4-1 ration. This will essentially turn a 12-megapixel camera into a 3-megapixel camera. And that gives you the opposite problem of too many pixels on the chip ... you now have too few and as such, will run into artifacting instead of noise.
I HAV UNLIMITED BUDGET
any other option in 12 mp or 10 mp
the cam should look good frm outside also
its basically 2 show off
and click nice photos
pls suggest
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
Setting your camera to a lower setting doesn't help either. Essentially, the image is reduced to the set quality after it has been processed by the CCD. As such, the light still goes through those pixels, only that after some basic processing steps pixels "thrown out" to make the image to the desired setting and size. This process is called "Choking" and that will cause Artifacting and noise. Additionlly, you'll also loose details of the recorded image.
Some cameras have written into their firmware a process called "binning," which merges the signals of multiple pixels to make larger pixels. Usually at a 4-1 ratio. This will essentially turn a 12-megapixel camera into a 3-megapixel camera. And that gives you the opposite problem of too many pixels on the chip ... you now have too few and as such, will run into artifacting instead of noise.
The article is interesting and I am just wondering when it was published. If you go to this site you can compare the pictures of two cameras. For comparison I chose the 8 MP SD850 and the 12MP SD950 see what you think, I vote for the SD 950.
imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...
As for which one, for picture quality, I think there's too much MP here to work with. Especially when about 99% of your shots are going to be snapshots where you won't even notice that extra 4-6 megapixels.
I'll agree that most any of the cameras will have a lot of noise above ISO 400 and some at ISO 200; however we are talking about point and shoot cameras and there are few situations that the average user needs anything beyond that. Most people who require that type of speed are either professionals or serious amateurs who should be using a digital SLR. I have done a lot of 35mm photography in the past and I seldom ever used anything above ISO 200 due to film grain which is pretty much the equivalent of noise.
I personally use a Digital Rebel, and my wife has had the Elph 2mp S330 our first digital, a Canon 6mp A540 which I broke and replaced with a Nikon S550. Most recently a SD950 which replaces the Nikon that is lousy and a candidate for ebay.
For camera size and picture quality I think the A series Canons are the way to go, but most (my wife included) people are going for the sub compacts these days because they fit in a shirt pocket or purse.
Anyway we could debate this all day long; since you are obviously a camera buff check this out. It will probably be the next upgrade we see in the future.
lifehacker.com/387380/turn-...
And in 99% of your photographs (which will be snapshots 4x6 and below) you won't even see the benefit of the extra MP you pay for. It's like driving around town in a Ferrari. Sure, it can go fast, but if you can only drive 25mph 99.9% of the time, what's the point of paying extra for it?
Now that doesn't mean you have to stay at 6mp. But undertand that the higher the MP count, the more likelihood of noise invading in low light situations as the ISO climbs. That's all I'm saying.
img165.imageshack.us/img165... anyone has any suggestions on a camera that would work great let me know. Otherwise, is the SD950 ok?
And I think this largely depends on your output. What are you planning on doing with them? If you're going into serious photography with models, you'll do yourself alot better by investing in a DSLR rig. This is because they shoot with full size chips for better quality images at higher MP.
I would strongly recommend trying the Canon G9 because if that won't do what you want done, then you know for certain that a d-SLR is required.
Good luck.
I guess it could be less than $400 if you buy it, find it to be inadequate, and then sell it under the "Nearly New" category. Still your point is well made, and I thank you for keeping me on track (yet another time).
I just took another look at your reference picture above and noticed a desirable effect in it. The background is nicely out of focus in order to put attention on the model. This effect is fairly easily obtained with a d-SLR, but can be quite difficult or even impossible to obtain with a Point and Shoot camera.
As for the out of focus effect, I have some success with the SP560UZ on that front. But only if the depth of field between the subject and the background is very great.
2. Do either of these cameras have the option to place the date-stamp on a higher resolution setting rather than just the medium resolution 'postcard' setting?
3. What is the biggest benefit of the 950 over the 850 or vice-versa?
I'm going to buy one ASAP.
1. Based on CCD size and pixel count these three cameras should be close in low-light performance, though the SD800is might have a slight edge over the other two, and the SD850is might have a slight edge over the SD950is. The SD800is has 7MP on the same size CCD as the SD850is and so will have slightly better noise to signal ratio and hence better low-light performance. The SD950is has 12MP but compensates by increasing the CCD size to 1/1.7" keeping the physical pixel size on the CCD about the same as the SD850is.
2. I am unable to confirm that any of these three cameras have a date stamp function based on the CanonUSA web site information. That doesn't mean they don't have it -- I just can't confirm it. If they do have it, typically with Canon it is available only at the one picture size setting as you mentioned.
3. Advantages of SD800is -- wide angle lens 28mm; 1.7 frames per second in continuous shooting mode(1.3fps for SD850is and 1.5fps for SD950is).
Advantages of SD850is -- 2 cm macro focus (vs 3cm for SD800is and 5cm for SD950is); takes Time Lapse photos.
Advantages of SD950is -- strongest flash (7.9m vs 4m for SD800is and 3.5m for SD850is);
The 12MP is not an advantage UNLESS you want to do a lot of cropping and enlarging. All these cameras will produce 8X10 enlargements at 300 dpi or better. If you really want to print poster size, then the 12MP could be an advantage.
7MP as found on the SD800is is plenty for images being viewed on computer screen.
Naturally, you can add dates w/software, and (as you might know) the metadata stored with each photo has the date.
PS The 950 has the Titanium case, correct? Nice cool factor, plus it should add some durability.
Looking at them, especially the still life shots blown up to max so you can really see details, I would say that the G9 provides much better detail. However, the tradeoffs is that being both are 12MP cameras, it will get really noisy at ISO levels above 800.
If 99% of your pictures are going to be snapshots, you won't really even notice the additional pixelage that a 12MP camera offers. For picture quality, I think there's too much MP here to work with. Let me explain. I came across an interesting article today about how more mega pixels is not necessarily a good thing. According to Image Engineering ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) – a company that does testing of digital cameras for photo magazines in Germany – the quality of digital pictures has steadily decreased since the state of the art was six megapixels back in 2004. And because they don’t have a “dog in this hunt,” they put forth a compelling argument for buying new digital cameras with less mega pixels and not more.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
It's kinda like driving a ferrari on a US freeway. Sure, you can do it, but since you can't really open the car up, what's the point?
Don't get caught up in the "megapixel arms race" which says that more mp is better. Not necessarily. In fact, the more MP they pack into those tiny CCD chips, the less light sensitive they become and the more noise can creep into your picture in low light and high ISO settings.
So, before you plop down $350 for this camera, ask yourself if you're really going to be using that extra MP and if it's really worth the trade-offs.
Thank you for answering my question. After reviewing your answers, I am going to start looking at cameras with 5MP or 6MP, because I don't think I need a camera with 12MP. Thank you again and have a good day. Sincerely, DGT.
which takes better pics?
and more
wat r the pros and cons??
The big Con you have with SONY is SONY itself. SONY, tends to force their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, their own spin on formatting, and a host of others which the Canon won't do. Canon relies on SD cards, which are pretty much the standard in point and shoot for memory cards. This means you can use any you happen to currently have and they are much cheaper than memory sticks. You can also use them in other technologies like PDAs, DMPs, and even mp3 players, whereas that memory stick is only going to be used in another SONY.
And those memory sticks are more expensive and slower than SD cards, IMHO.
youtube.com/watch?v=c0ITWWc...
Would appreciate it if anyone who own this Canon model to confirm.
Thanks.
Great post on your camera's problem. Please don't mark as "best" any answers until you get a definitely correct one. We need to figure this one out good and proper especially considering how recently this camera was introduced and how many people are saying how wonderful it is (and how good it looks on paper too). Please leave this post up long enough for the "top gurus" to see it and respond. Thanks.
Meanwhile, if there is any way for you to exchange your camera I would recommend doing so asap. You could also let us know if the second camera does the same thing. Tonight I'll take my G9 out and see how it responds in that situation.
I have been reading posts on this forum for long enough now to conclude at lest one overall message about buying any new camera. It is a big "must do" to check out the company's return/exchange policy before purchasing. Any brand digital camera can arrive brand new and defective. We must be able to return the camera for cash money/credit card refund or at least be able to exchange the defective camera for a new (not refurbished) camera of another brand/model/size/cost/whatever. It is clearly worth paying just a little more $ to be able to walk back into the store and exchange a camera than to have to deal with the manufacturer on a warranty issue for at least the first 30 or even 90 days. It can easily take more than 30 days to figure out what is going on with a digital camera especially if it is your very first one.
Summary: The store's exchange/refund policy is just as important as anything else about the camera.
Larry
More info: This happens whenever I'm shooting a light bulb directly (without the shade), even indoor.
I've just found out that this is actually mentioned in the Troubleshooting section of the User Guide:
"A bar of light (purplish red) appears on the LCD monitor.
Sometimes appears when shooting a bright subject, such as the sun or other light source.
This is a normal occurrence in devices containing CCDs and does not constitute a malfunction. This bar of light will not be recorded when shooting still photos, but it will be recorded when shooting movies."
So, I guess this is normal for all point-and-shoot cameras...
As Aditya pointed out all digital cameras which extend their lenses externally can potentially have this problem because they monitor themselves for problems such as out of alignment lens barrel. I haven't heard that the SD950 has been reported with this problem YET.
Try these sites for information:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E18_e... just google e18 error and you'll find plenty of sites to explore.
Larry
Please advise.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed.
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be an answer as well.
Thanks for your info. So you are saying that the IXUS 950 IS has more point compare to IXUS 960 IS which has 12 mp. What about IXUS 860 IS? The price is more expensive than 950 IS and from one of digital camera website, the 860 IS got better reviewed.
I hope you don't mind explain more to me about this.
Again, thank you.
The article I link to points to a digital "sweet spot" where megapixels and light sensitivity are balanced at around 6MP. And considering that 99% of all your pictures will probably be snapshots, a 6MP camera is more than sufficient. As such, if I was layin' down the plastic for the camera, I'd go with the 950, with the 860 second.
I have heard issues with the face detection technology (only works with "teethy" smiles). Sony isn't a bad camera though. Personally, I prefer Canon's. If you'd like to further investigate on your own, try the DCHQ Gift Guide ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is a great way to find exactly what you want. With your specifications, I would go with the Canon 950IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The image stabilization will help in low light/indoor situations, the 12.1 MP resolution will help produce great prints, and the lithium-ion rechargeable battery will last you a good half day to day of continuous use. I would get a couple extra batteries and keep them charged if you're going to be shooting all day with any camera. I've had my Canon pocket camera for almost 6 years, and it still works great for me, so I trust in their quality. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any futher questions or issues. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
However, sometimes I can't or don't want to lug around the camera and that is why I am thinking of getting the SD950 - for snapshots or times when I just can not carry a big camera.
I think you need to decide what you want the camera for - is it to capture memories where you want something small that you can carry in a pocket so it is ready to use, or do you want something bigger which involves a little more thought when deciding if you want to carry it around with you. You also might want to think about will you be interested in investing in new lenses for the Rebel. The kit lens is OK, but if you don't see yourself upgrading the lens eventually then that might be something to factor into your decision.
Thank you.
I definitely would like to know what you think of the SD950. Also, what store is B&H, I don't think that we have one around here?
My feeling is that 12MP is overkill. Since 99% of your pictures are going to be in below 8x10, you'll never really see the benefit of 12MP since it doesn't assert itself until you're in sizes above 8x10. It's kinda like driving a Ferrari on US freeways. Sure, it's great to say you have all that HP under the hood, but you'll never really see it in action.
digitalcamerainfo.com/conte... you might want to put the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX100 on your comparison list.
Be sure to compare "street prices" instead of MSRP
12MP may be overkill, but if you want it, there it is.
Try the "Resources" button located near the bottom right hand corner of this page for review sites and lots of other goodies.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed.
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be an answer as well.
The optical zoom on the Canon G9 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is going to be a lot better than the SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If you're going for functionality over pocket size, I would pick the G9 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The longer zoom, manual focus settings, and large number of shooting modes make it more appealing to the more advanced camera user. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Larry
Thanks, Larry
The Nikon S700 is a new camera that really outdoes the Canon 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a higher resolution at 12MP, a wider ISO setting range (good for low light settings, and it is a bit smaller too. Unfortunately, you'll have issues with any LCD in bright sunlight. Personally I prefer a camera with a viewfinder to combat this. Not everyone likes them though.
You might try the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) to gain that capability. It also has a 12MP resolution, but comes with a viewfinder as well. It also comes with the ability to set the exposure level manually, giving you more flexibility with your shots. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks
You can change either the camera or possibly the computer's settings. How old is the computer and what kind of graphics device do you have in it? If it is old, then you might not have the right type of graphics driver to display your photos properly. You can try to reduce the resolution of the photos you take, but they will not print well or display with a lot of clarity online. Let me know how old your computer is, and we can go from there.
Andrew
The T60 has quite a few options, tell us about the computer.
1. Have you gone to the support web site and loaded the latest drivers?
2. What processor do you have?
3. What video card do you have
4. How much memory (ram)?
5. Are you running XP or Vista and which version?
Your problem is with the computer so you should check with tech support. Some of the T60's shipped with only 1gb of memory and if this is the case you will need to add memory; also you might have someone help you with the Windows settings.
Are you just double-clicking an image from within Windows Explorer or My Computer? If so, what is probably happening is the application associated with the jpeg files is Microsoft Photo Editor, and that app will give you this error with files this large.
What you want to do is right click the file, choose "Open With...", the select Windows Picture and Fax Viewer" to open the picture. It won't let you edit the picture, but works nice to just view pics quickly as it loads much faster than most other apps. You can also put a check in the "always use this application to open this type of file" (going from memory, might not be verbatim) to make this change permanent.
Hope this helps.
Scott
I am looking at these cameras. The Sony T70, Canon 870, and the Canon 950. The 950 is a little out of my price range, but I just want opinions. I want to know which has the better image quality, more zoom, I basically just want an opinion on these cameras. Have you used them before? Which is better and in what ways?? Please explain your answers. This is worth 15 points. Please help quickly. Thank you!
I'm outlining the major specifications for the three cameras in the following order: Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), Canon SD 870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), Sony T70.
- Megapixels:
12.1 vs 8 vs 8
The extra resolution will be noticable in large poster print sizes, if you're not printing over 8x10" or just placing the photos online, you won't see much difference between the 12 and 8 MP.
- Optical zoom:
3.7x vs 3.8x vs 3x
I'm a big fan of optical zoom. The more you can get the better. Digital zoom will cause you to lose resolution, so I try not to use it at all. In the case of these cameras, the difference in optical zoom isn't that big.
- ISO Range:
80-1600 vs 80-1600 vs 80-3200
There is a bit of an argument about the pros and cons for a higher ISO setting. While you do get more noise or "graininess" with a higher ISO setting, you get a lot better performance in low light settings. I like the higher settings and just use some software, PaintShopPro, for noise removal after transferring to my computer.
- Manual Exposure Capability
yes vs no vs maybe
The Sony gets a maybe because it is not specifically called out on camera's specification site ( sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/st... ) but it does site step increments for exposure control. This leads me to think you can control the exposure level manually. I like this because you can adjust the camera to do what you want it instead of just auto settings.
- Image Stabilization:
yes vs yes vs yes
This is a great feature to have in low light settings and/or if you have shaky hands.
- Face detection technology
no vs no vs yes
While this may sound neat, I've heard some issues with this. If your subject isn't smiling, the technology doesn't work as well.
All in all, I like the Sony T70 the best. The ISO 3200 setting really does it for me. I also like some of the other features that come with the camera like widescreen capability and the smile technology sounds very interesting (takes pics automatically when the subject smiles or laughs). I'd be interested to see how that works, but the camera seems pretty functional beyond the tech stuff as well. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Tyler
I'm glad we could be of assistance. Please come back to DCHQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with any more issues or questions. Happy Holidays.
Andrew
You chose the Sony T70 because of the ISO setting.
I have no idea what ISO is or what it does for your pictures.
Could you please explain why a higher setting is good to have.
Thanks!
ISO settings are comparable to film ISO settings. These numbers refer to how much light is exposed on film in a certain amount of time. The higher the number, the more light. They actually have a one to one ratio. For instance, ISO 1600 will allow twice as much light in as ISO 800. In film, its how fast the silver halides change when exposed to light. The settings in digital cameras were made similar for an easier translation from traditional film photography.
One thing to be aware of with higher ISO settings is the increased "noise" issue. Higher ISO settings do cause a greater amount of graininess in the photos. This can be reduced with noise reduction options in photo software like Paint Shop Pro and Photoshop.
To sum it up, higher ISO settings let you take more visible pictures in low light situations.
Andrew
So you told Sony T70 will be the best choice from compacts? What will be the best choice now from compact cameras?
From the choice of the three cameras outlined below, I liked the Sony T70. What are you trying to do with your camera? You can see some differences in top rated compact cameras here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for a better idea.
Andrew
Some of the Canons have face recognition technology, but not all. Thank you for pointing out my error above though. The Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) both have Canon face detection technology. I have heard its not the best when people don't have a big, teethy smile either.
The Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does have manual exposure control, not focusing though.
I need a camera to take a good picture, it has to be small enough to put it into the pocket. That's basically everything what I expect. Pictures I'm taking during the trip, party with friends/family. And if I want to take a picture of nice view (mountains, architecture), it will allows me to do that and everything will be visible on the photo. Price, I don't really want to pay more than $300-$350, but to be honest I have no clue how expensive is the camera, which will satisfy my "huge" expectations. What would you recomend me? I am a photo amateur.
Sebi
You should be able to get all of that and more. Something like the Panasonic Lumix TZ3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a great option for you. It is small enough to fit in your pocket, has an amazing 10x optical zoom for better close ups, and a wide angle lens (28mm equivalent) that will help with your landscape type photos. It also has some settings that enhance low light photos without a flash (image stabilization and higher ISO functionality). You can also pick it up for around $200 right now, so that is well below your budget, but still has all the functionality you're looking for.
Andrew
Maybe there is different equal option, because I hate this design of camera....:P and I don't think I will be using so big zoom. btw, do you know how does look like photo in 10x zoom made by this panasonic?? is it quality the same like without zoom?
sebi
I have a plan of buying a camera and for some reason i hold canon as better compared to sony,as snaps out of canon are really good, can you suggest me the best one in the canon brand,major features which i look for are :
1. good amount of optical zoom with IS
2. More Pixels
3. manually configurable
4. pretty good memory slot
more over my craze for camera being good is, when i zoom on to the picture on my PC, the pixel should be clear and the picture should not get blurred for a good fare amount of zooming
I have an eye on A570 IS , A590 IS, SD870 IS and SD1100 IS.
Kindly suggest me the best one,as this camera is one i am looking for from long time.
Will look on for your valuable reply
While the cameras you have listed are decent, they won't have the zoom you are looking for. I would recommend the Canon S5 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) to suit your needs better. It has 12x optical zoom with image stabilization. This camera also has a shoe for an external flash and can accept extender lenses with an adapter tube. This will give you even more flexibility. At 8 mega-pixels of resolution, you'll find it more than capable for large size prints.
If you feel this camera is too large or too much (around $300), you can try the Canon SX 100 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It also has a 8MP resolution and 10x optical zoom, but is a bit smaller in size and runs around $200.
Both cameras have manual controls for focus and exposure. They also use SD memory cards and AA sized batteries. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I go for canon 870 due to it is wide angle, and better image quality, also partly becos of its large lcd screen.
You pretty much hit the nail on the head. If you want high quality pictures buy a Canon.
Also for the people buying a camera based solely on the Mega Pixels read this. 6mpixel.org/en/?
first, I appreciate your work.
I own a t70 and im unable to capture an image with more than 2.5 mb of size.
could u help me in taking a image with more size (which increases the picture quality) so that image wont get distorted when zoomed.im worried for this since last 4 months.i shoot in day light and my maximum pictures contains faces..plz help
The image size will depend on how much detail there is in your picture. If you take a shot of a blank wall the size will be much smaller than if you take a picture of grass. If you take 10 pictures of with different subject matter, they will all be different sizes on your computer.
btw, in auto settings with flash on, and shot with a distance of 1 to 2 meters from the object(with face detection ON), the image is good but when zoomed in, the image is getting distorted. How to get rid of this. though the image dimensions are 3072*2304 in 8 mega pixel setting.
And can u plz explain the term NOISE in photography.
tnx once again.
Digital noise comes from two main sources. The first being the inherent noise in the camera's sensor. This is exacerbated by heat buildup on the chip from multiple exposures or long exposures, or by having many photosites clustered onto a small chip. Digital SLR's have less noise than point and shoots cameras because the image sensors are much larger. The second source of noise is from the ISO rating. The ISO setting amplifies the signal through the chip, much like turning up the volume on your stereo. With the volume at 3, you can't hear the noise in your stereo, at 10 you hear the hiss through the speakers. This is amplification noise.
Noise Ninja and Neat Image do a good job of making it less noticeable, and in some cases almost eliminate it altogether.
what about this PHIL
Thank You,
Rosh
I usually do research on cameras. To my knowledge one should always look in to Megapixels, Optical Zoom (dont even worry about digital) and aperture (especially when used for indoor shooting). and ISO range
8-10 Mepapixels is really good
3x is ok , 4X is good and 5X optical zoom is better
coming to the aperature , It should always be high. For instance say f/2.0 is better that f/4.0
let me define few terms
Focal lenght: the distance between the camera lens and the sensor is called focal lenth. For a good camera the focal length should
be always less. f is the focal lenght
Aperature : is the maximum opening of the lens. say if aperature is f/2 , then the lens gets opened by half of the
focal length which enables to gather more light and thus avoids the use of flash. Now a days we can get a maximum aperature of f/2.8.
Note . a camera with aperature f/2.8 is far better than a camera with f/3.5 and also this will be little expensive than the later one.
Coming to the ISO setting .
Usually it is recomemded to take picture on low iso when there is enough light and vice versa.
This really doesnt matter when you have good aperature
CONCLUSION
i would go with canon sd 950 among those three.
with regards
sundeep
Both of these cameras are very similar in specifications. I have been a long time Canon user, and love their capabilities and user interface. I have also had the opportunity to use a couple cameras from the Nikon CoolPix line, which I found to be very nice as well. When comparing these two cameras, I would have to decide on the Nikon P5100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The one feature that spoke volumes to me was the ability to set the camera at a much higher ISO setting. While this will cause more graininess in photos, it will make your low light pictures come out brighter at the same time. The "pocket cameras" are used widely indoors at parties and family gatherings where lighting is less than optimal. The ability to go to ISO 2400 at 12MP and ISO 3200 at 5MP is a great feature. It would even get me to switch away from Canon when choosing between these two cameras. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Close to your specification, but not quite there.
Larry
Larry
However, when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
Thanks
Naeem
As much as I like the SD950, you won't be happy with it's focal range, particularly on safari.
This camera should work well. The image stabilization and high ISO range should help in low light situations and speed your shutter up (when set at ISO 1600).
A good trick with any digital camera in low light situations is to push the shutter button half way to fix your focal length. When you push it the remainder of the way, you will get a faster reaction from the camera. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
My last camera was SONY cybershot that broke from water damage but I loved it:(
I tried virtually every thing i could think of... I switch on night mode and turned off the flash and took a picture of complete darkness and it only left the shutter on for about 2 seconds. Anyone know of a way to achieve 10-15sec exposure? This is one of my favorite types of pictures to take and the 15 sec min shutter setting was a part of my decision to buy this camera.
Thanks,
Charlie
1. Press the FUNC button
2. Highlight the Exposure icon
3. Press MENU (ACTUALLY YOU PRESS THE DISP. BUTTON!)
This allows you to manually select a shutter speed.
Hopefully this information will help someone else out.
Thanks,
Charlie
Andrew
Digital zoom is available in standard mode when shooting movies with this camera. Please see the user manual ( gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/090000... ) for the specifics on it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Besides being almost $50 more expensive, the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has a 12MP resolution (up from 8) and has more choices for image resolution (JPG size). It also is twice as fast in its video frame rate recording (15 frames per second vs. 30). The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also has an optical view finder (which can be useful in bright situations when you can't see the LCD as well).
Some options it doesn't have that the Canon SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does is a wide angle lens option (28mm vs 36mm) and slightly less optical zoom (3.8x on the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) vs. 3.7x on the SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )).
If I was choosing between these two cameras, I would go with the Canon SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because of the higher resolution and better video capabilities. You have to look at what you want to do with it though. If you're trying to get wide landscape type photos, the wider lens of the SD870 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a better option. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The pros can cons are outlined in the answer above. One thing I missed in the narrative above was the availability of an optical viewfinder. The SD950 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has one while the [ur=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS[/url] does not. In bright light, you might have issues seeing the LCD screen, so a viewfinder is nice to have in those situations. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Another tip is to place some paper in front of the flash to diffuse it some. Even a coffee filter will do. I have heard that there's a snap on diffuser out there, that's an option if you can find it.
More tips can be foud here ( digital-photography-school.... ).
P.S. My hope is that buying one of these will save me from having to buy one of those flip ultra gadgets for my wife. (Am I right on this?)
The "ixy" version is sold outside of the United States. The Canon SD950 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is sold in the US. I hope this helps.
Andrew
You can find the instructions, in English, here ( gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/090000... ) or here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Good luck.
Andrew
Glad we could help. Please feel free to come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
These are the exact same camera. I can not speak to the instruction language. It would really depend on where the camera is marketed for. If you do wind up with instructions in Japanese, you can reference the two links above for instructions in English.
Andrew
if yes then what will be its price?
I'm looking for a small, lightweight camera to take to Europe - - that will give me the best picture possible!!! I'll spend up to ~ 400.00 I'm quite sure I want image stabilization, some degree of zoom.
Thanks!
Good luck.
2) Both SD870 IS and SD950 IS are the same using the technology (DIGIC III, IS), except for SD950: it has 12 MP, 3.7x optics, not wide-angle (not like SD870 IS which has 28mm wide-angle), ISO3200 preset mode. I don't know the benefit of having ISO3200 considering the fact that at > ISO200, the pictures start to have noise signals for this point-and-shoot digital camera category.
I am looking for a digital camera for my domestic use. It should include appropriate zoom, clarity and
* 1st of 50 in Canon
* 1st of 56 in $350 - $600
* 1st of 12 in 12 Megapixels
* 1st of 91 in Ultra Compact
Doesn't get much better than that.
Simple to use
any price
WARNING: compact cameras often have rediculasly complicated menu systems and are impossable to use
if you want a camera for more than just family pictures and are a compatant user you could get a bridge camera (£120 - £350). Bridge cameras produce better quality images then compact cameras. Bridge cameras also have better zoom as we all know what it is like pointing a compact camera at a subject and the image produced looks like its miles away. Most bridge cameras will have an electronic view finder, usefull for taking pictures on bright summer days etc.
The OLYMPUS SP 560 UZ is about £200 if you know where to go (the 570 has just been released so bargins might be obtainable)
Fujifilm make a cheep model £140
get a camcorder if you really want video, otherwise don't bother with a normal camera.
the SP 560 UZ produces ok movies but they are not that satisfying to watch. (if you want to see a sample e-mail me s.o.u.r.i@hotmail.com)
Compact cameras typically produce naff videos with appalling sound
better off with pictures...
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" or "kids" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
7. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Check out the Canon SD950 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a fairly fast lag rate in regular light. But if you do the tips above, particularly #s 1 & 5 can reduce your shutter lag by as much as 80% can catch those kids!
"The camera took 1.3 seconds to start up and capture its first JPEG. After that, it took a slightly sluggish 2 seconds between shots with the flash turned off and 3.5 seconds between shots with the flash turned on. Shutter lag measured a pleasing 0.5 second in our high-contrast test and 1.2 seconds in our low-contrast test, which mimic bright and dim shooting conditions, respectively. In continuous shooting mode, the SD950 IS fell just short of its fancier cousin, the G9, clocking an average of 1.6 frames per second regardless of image size."
Shutter delay is a way of life in digital cameras. But the good news is that the delay is lessening as the technology matures. And what's interesting is, according to recent news articles, many camera companies will be incorporating the CCD chips they use in their SLR lines (which give no shutter lag) into their point and shoot cameras. So look for it within the next few years.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
7. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Doing these, particularly #s 1 & 5 can reduce your shutter lag by as much as 80% But I'm sure you know that being a DSLR user.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem.
Do you REALLY need it. Amateurs and most novices don't. But most pros can't live without it. To me, I'd love the feature. And with memory cards getting larger and larger, I think it will become a more common feature on all cameras. But for now, there's a compromise with size of camera and RAW capability.
The best reason to record in RAW is for post processing, like I do for adjusting white balance of my primarily SKi/Snow photos, and for that reason I would recommend the G9, it's the replacement but cheaper than the G7, and it's got a few more additional features, including RAW file support, ISO wheel handy if you change often and quickly (especially outdoors) instead of fiddling with the menu, but otherwise all the same features of the 950IS, but in a slightly larger package, or the same size package of the G7 with more features.
I would recomend the G9 to anyone who is an amateur but wants to get serious and wants all the tools when they need them. If all you're doing is shooting quick action and vistas it doesn't matter much JPEG won't limit you too much, but if you want the finest detail and low noise, and the ability to tweak afterwards then you'l appreciate rAW really quickly, especially since as mentioned memory is cheap (I have 3 stick of 512MB UltraII, 1GB of Ultra III and 2GB of Panasonic HS, none of which I spent more than $50 on (one of the UltraII with USB interface cost $9.99) so the size limitation is nothing. And believe me once you learn how to make the most of your camera you'll miss the features you don't have, and IMO the G9 is a better starting point than most other 'pocketable' cameras giving you as close to SLR as you can get.
This is where it should be on their website. My pop-ups are blocked, so I don't know if it shows up here. usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... neither of these solves your problem, just contact Canon directly.
I was never told that they did not have the manual when I ordered, later in the box they put a piece of paper manual is on back order (never heard of it before- for a brand new item)
But it sounds to me like you have an even bigger problem. You may have bought a "Grey Market" ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_... ) camera. This is where you can get an incredible deal on a camera, but that deal is tempered by the fact the lack of a manual or even warranty card or other accessories. If Grey Market, if something happens to your camera, you may not have a warranty and Canon may not honor to repair it. Or, you may have to ship it to where it was made to have it repaired under warranty - i.e., overseas. This can take much longer than a warranty that is honored in the US.
This, in my mind, completely undoes any advantage that saving a few dollars tempts you with.
No, the startup time of a digital camera has nothing to do with the size (resolution) of its sensor.
Good luck!
as mentioned above startup time is not effected by resolution. maybe a second for the lens to extend and then your ready to start shooting.
1) camera's main processor and cache (like computer's CPU and internal cache)
2) camera's internal bus and I/O (like computer's motherboard and peripherals)
3) camera's memory card (like computer's main storage)
In digital camera, the only option you can improve physically on the camera's performance is with its memory card. Higher memory card's bus speed will make sure faster write speed at the expense of heat. Memory card's performance can degrade with increasing heat produced inside the memory card's slot over time (I have experienced this condition). If possible, see the memory card specs on temperature requirements.
1. www.bhphotovideo.com
2. www.amazon.com (online stores with store fronts only)
3. www.cdw.com
4. www.ritzcamera.com
5. www.dell.com
6. www.jr.com
7. www.officedepot.com
8. www.staples.com
9. www.bestbuy.com
10. www.officemax.com
11. www.compusa.com
12. www.costco.com
13. www.adorama.com
14. www.focuscamera.com
15. www.walmart.com
Canon Powershot SD950 IS Reviews
Canon Powershot SD950 IS Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
An excellent camera with excellent incamera functions and features.
My favorite digital camera ever in the slip into your pocket class.
Little to no noise in normal lighting conditions and excellent clarity and color reproduction. The very high resolution is a big bonus ontop of these points.
- 5.0 out of 5
Excellent pictures for such a small camera. The flash does a great job filling in dark backgrounds. I recently broke my wife's Canon A540 and replaced it with a Nikon S550 which doesn't measure up to the older A540. I have played around with the 950 and am very impressed with the camera. There is no way my wife can find fault with this little jewel. The only negative thing I can say, is the Manual leaves a lot to be desired, but then my wife has never read one anyway.
- 5.0 out of 5
I can say that I am pretty impressed.
I have an old Nikon Coolpix 3500 that was really practical as the display could be rotated and you could see yourself and that shots but wasn`t good in low light and was capable only of very short, low res movies.
My new Cannon solved all that but doen`t have the rotational display that was very good.
With my new IXUS 960 IS(SD 950 IS) I can do anything as a Point and Shot with TOP PERFORMANCE. I love the movie mode and the quality of it, even in low light. I also love the exquisite Titanium Body, it is special. I see no cons as a PS but next could be exactly like this with a simple remote.
- 5.0 out of 5
I purchased the SD950IS about a month ago and am very pleased. Nice size. Images excellent quality. Works really well with Sandisk Extreme III SD cards (very fast). Display of buttons (when pushed) on the LCD very good (ie, when you change the flash setting this comes up large on the LCD). Would prefer AA batteries, but I guess they had to go to other baterry due to size. Really like the ability to custom program the timer (ie, can set both time until the photo is taken and also the number of images that will be taken).
