Hey! You should know that this product has been discontinued. Here are our current recommended cameras in the Professional dSLR category.
Canon Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D
Editor's Review
Despite being nearly two-years old and having been updated by the Digital Rebel XTi / 400D, The Canon Digital Rebel XT / 350D is still an excellent opportunity for advancing photographers, especially now that the price has dropped significantly in the wake of new releases. It lacks some of the nicer, more luxurious aspects of its decendant, the 400D, having only an 8-megapixel sensor, 1.8-inch LCD screen, but for $200 less, the 350D is worth consideration for users interested in getting a bargain on one of the most popular and successful digital cameras of all time. Take a look at both cameras and consider the differences before settling on which you'd like to purchase.
The Canon Digital Rebel XT (also known as the Digital Rebel 350D) is Canon's follow-up to one of the Digital Rebel 300D. The Rebel XT sports a number of improvements over its predecessor, including 8-megapixel resolution, a 25% smaller and 10% lighter body, more focus modes, and faster write speeds. A new processor allows for 3 frame-per-second bursts of up to 14 images, making the Rebel XT a great choice for action shots. Available in both black and silver, the new Digital Rebel is compatible with all of the 60+ Canon EF series lenses.
Specifications
- 8.0 megapixels (effective)
- Auto and manual focus
- Program and manual exposure
- JPEG and RAW file format
- ISO range 100 - 1600
- Proprietary Lithium-Ion battery
- Accepts interchangeable Canon EF lenses -- lens not included
- Part Number: 0206B001
- UPC: 013803049541
- Release Date: Dec 24, 2005
Shop for 350D Accessories
Canon Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D Comments & Questions (write your own!)
- no-cost-classified-ads.blog...
This XT here should still work fine for a new entrant into dSLRs, but I'd say you're probably better of with the XS -- newer, more support for it, and all that good stuff.
I will give those suggestions a go.
Thanks.
I'm looking for the one which has optical view finder; manual setting; high optical zoom (min. 6x); better picture in low light; less noise at higher iso; good dynamic range, color reproduction, and also long exposure; and picture which is great in details.
Any recommendations from other brands which has similar features i expected are welcomed..Thanks
For what you're looking to do, you'd be much better off, IMHO.
For Gymnastic competition, you would need a higher shutter speed, if flash is not allowed.
The first thing I will do is to turn the mode dial to ' S ' which represents shutter speed priority.
Take a shot, if it is still not satisfactory, set the ISO to 400. This should work.
If you don't mind a little grainy picture, set the ISO to 800 and see the result for yourself.
The camera has a maximum ISO of 1600, but the higher ISO you set, the more noisy ( grainy) the picture will be. No harm trying this setting just for your information, but the better picture probably will be somewhere around ISO 400.
Free is always a good deal, as long as there's no catch. But even if you had to pay say, $200 for it, it'd still be a great deal.
No strings attached free all the way. Thanks again for your answer. I see the point.
psalamon@aol.com
If you go here:
dpreview.com/news/0801/0801... scroll down to the gray box beneath the photos, you'll see a list called Lens Compatibility that breaks this down further.
FWIW, I think the older model (the F70?) didn't have this issue with auto-focus compatibility. I'm not sure why they changed that other than perhaps to get some of the newer lenses moving off the shelves. Not that it's really an issue, as manually focusing isn't a huge deal, but for some users it seems to be a point of contention.
psalamon@aol.com
my choice is pansonic lumix fz18
cameralabs.com/reviews/Pana... is the best camera in your price range
As far as battery life, don't let the idea of something aside from an AA battery slow you down. Nowadays many great cameras are sold with their own proprietary lithium ion type batteries, and those hold charges just great and last a very long time. Even if a camera does take AAs, I HIGHLY recommend buying the rechargeable kind, because regular AAs won't last very long at all. So if you're worried about the price of the battery, by the time you buy rechargeable AAs and a battery charger, the price will be equivalent to a lithium ion anyways... and most cameras that use lithium ion come with the battery and charger. So if battery life is the reason you're avoiding cameras that don't take AAs, I wouldn't worry about it.
I personally think the S5 is a great camera. It's a nice mix of basic camera features (along with a fairly basic price point) and yet enough manual control options to let him get his feet wet with the idea of a pro camera. I consider it a kind of hybrid model. And I consider it the best of its kind; Canon's operating speed, color reproduction, and low light performance aren't to be beaten.
I was going to point you towards the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is a slightly more "professional" yet still very easy to use camera, but I think it may be out of your price point if you are looking for the one that comes with a lens. The prices quoted if you click on that link, the ones in the 300-400 range, are the body of the Rebel only, with no lens. The price on that camera has dropped drastically, but I think you'd either have to buy it used or wait awhile to get the full camera plus lens.
So, considering that, I'd personally say the S5 is a really nice choice for what you're looking for. Then if he likes it/ wants to pursue the hobby, there'd be plenty of time to buy a full-on pro camera later!
I'm not sure the type of camera it was other than it being a canon (d?) 8 megapixel w/lense.
I would like to able to take fast action shots, low lit or candle lit weddings, and far distance landscape shots. I'm not sure of the settings for each and what camera and lense is recommended. Please help
Thanks,
Dee
The Canon XSi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) listed above would be a fantastic fit. I've shot a few weddings ( blackdoorphotos.com/wedding... ) using a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I would recommend getting yourself an external flash like the Speedlite 430EX ( amazon.com/Canon-430EX-Spee... ) and a fast, telephoto lens like a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 ( amazon.com/Tamron-AF17-50mm... ). You might want to get a longer lens as well (up to 200mm) to utilize a shorter depth of field and get more artistic shots.
If you do shoot weddings, make sure you pack plenty of batteries and extra memory cards. I would suggest taking the photos at the largest size, with the highest resolution to give you the largest print sizes you can get. This also will aide if you have to do any cropping later for different print sizes.
Any of the cameras listed above will also work great for the artistic shots you want to get. They have full manual control for maximum flexibility. I would also recommend taking a course in photography at your local community college or even a more inclusive correspondence course. I've sharpend my skills through the New York Institute of Photography ( nyip.com )'s Professional Photography program. It really helped me learn alot more about the ins and outs of my camera and photography in general.
Hopefully my rambling has helped you out today. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The camera won't adjust the focal length for a eaach person in the shot. It will pick the most common. I would suggest using a tighter aperture (larger f/ number) to get more points in focus. Doing that increases the focal range or depth of field of your photo. If you switch to the "Av" mode on the camera's dial, you can adjust this setting. If you make the number too large, you might have a longer shutter opening (depending on the light level). If you have a decent amount of light, I would set the aperture somewhere between f/5.6 and f/8 to achieve what you're looking for. At f/5.6 you'll get brighter pictures with the same shutter speed. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
thank you for your answer, it explains alot. the group shot is indoors and I was thinking of having a small white reflector and using my speedlight with diffuser on it too. If I set the camera on a-dep will that make a difference?? What settings can I use with the reflector and the speedlight. The group will be slightly elevated but not to much as I will be three steps down so they will be about 6 feet away from me if not a liitle furthur. I will be using a tripod and a cable release too.
The diffuser would be a perfect fit for this type of shot. If you're using an external flash with your diffusor indoors, I would switch to manual mode with an aperture of f/5.6 and a shutter speed around 1/160th of a second. This should work pretty well. I would bracket the shot and go to all the way up to f/8 to make sure you get the right balance of light and focal depth. Let me know how it turns out.
Andrew
My feeling is this. Get the fastest lens you can afford. Try and break up the focal length between aroudn 18-85 and then 75-200mm. That way you'll have the wide angle and far off zoom covered. But if you would prefer to have an all in one solution, then that works as well. It's just that one lens covering that entire focal length tends to be a bit slower.
Read up on it. Find Lens buyer's guides form all the major photo mags. And don't let some enterprising camera salesman move you off the lens you want because he can make a better commission (called a spiff) on another brand.
No matter what you end up with, buy a 1A Skylight filter for both the main camera lens and your fisheye. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
For that price, you'll be looking at something like the Olympus E410 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Canon XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), but those prices are body only and would require you to invest more in the lens of choice.
Andrew
So think practical. The SP560 is a great camera. I have one. But if you do your shopping, you can probably find a Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a decent lens for not that much more.
Thanks again........Mark
1) Nikura (no name) 28-200mm f3.9 zoom
2) Vivitar 75-150mm zoom (with their dedicated 2X extender)
3) Canon OEM 50mm f1.4
My adapter 'stops' the lens to the f-stop you have set on the lens, so you need to remember to stop it down when you take a picture (for depth of field).
Since the image size is smaller on the XT (22 X 15mm) than standard 35mm film (36 X 24mm), the lens is effectively 50% longer (more telephoto) on your old 35mm camera.
I do not have an FL lens to try, you will need to check clearances and run in the 'manual' stop down mode.
Good luck & have fun, Jim
That doesn't mean you have to spend a ton of money either. Since the cost has gone down for them, for nearly the cost of a high end Canon G9 point and shoot, you can invest in a lesser MP DSLR like the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or even an XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which will do the trick quite nicely. And what you lose in the "perceived megapixel gap" you will gain by a much better array of lenses available for the Eos Rebel.
Why do I say "perceived megapixel gap?" Because more MP is not necessarily better when it comes to point and shoot cameras. I came across an interesting article today about how more mega pixels is not necessarily a good thing. According to Image Engineering ( 6mpixel.org/en/? ) – a company that does testing of digital cameras for photo magazines in Germany – the quality of digital pictures has steadily decreased since the state of the art was six megapixels back in 2004. And because they don’t have a “dog in this hunt,” they put forth a compelling argument for buying new digital cameras with less mega pixels and not more.
The argument is essentially this: CCD chips on point and shoot cameras a smaller and as such, fitting in more pixels causes them to lose light sensivity. Sure, there’s more data on the chip, but the chip can’t absorb the light data and what it ends up with is a picture that has more noise than image quality. In addition, the more megapixels a camera has, the larger the lens it needs to provide the clarity it deserves and prevent diffraction due to a loss of detail with smaller apertures. But since we’re talking portable point and shoots here, those large lenses simply aren’t being made.
Finally, with larger mega pixels comes longer saving time due to their requires huge storage capacity, or more compression if not storing images in RAW format. The result is a noisier image and a dissatisfied camera user who thirsts for high quality and speed but fell into the trap of "more must mean better."
In the end, relying on a smaller MP that can balance all these needs may indeed be a better answer.
Setting your camera to a lower setting doesn't help either. Essentially, the image is reduced to the set quality after it has been processed by the CCD. As such, the light still goes through those pixels, only that after some basic processing steps pixels "thrown out" to make the image to the desired setting and size. This process is called "Choking" and that will cause Artifacting and noise. Additionlly, you'll also loose details of the recorded image.
Some cameras have written into their firmware a process called "binning," which merges the signals of multiple pixels to make larger pixels. Usually at a 4-1 ration. This will essentially turn a 12-megapixel camera into a 3-megapixel camera. And that gives you the opposite problem of too many pixels on the chip ... you now have too few and as such, will run into artifacting instead of noise.
Now I know what some will say ... James, in perfect studio photography the noise issue isn't an issue because of proper lighting, lower ISSO settings, etc. Sure, I can see that. But considering you're going for catalog size photographs, the benefit of more MP won't even assert itself anway, even without the noise issues since MP above 8 mp won't even be seen until you reach enlargements above 8x10.
e-mail: mhkhan36@hotmail.com
Does it work without a card?
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Use a monpod or tripod for extra stability.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
10. Faster lenses will also help. The f-stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
Thanks
If you look through the manual ( gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/090000... ), on page 100 it states the reduction lamp will light by pushing the shutter button half way before completing your photo. This may be why your lamp is lighting with your photos. Try pushing completely instead of halfway first. It may work better for you. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
John
I have both a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and a XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and neither of them do this. The only other explanation I have for this is a defective product. I would call Canon ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) for warranty support on this. I'm sure your camera is still under warranty. Good luck.
Andrew
Andrew said it right earlier, push the shutter fully and you won't get the strobing effect prior to the shot. The strobbing is so the camera can focus correctly while in auto mode. You may get a single burst flash prior to the full flash when the shutter opens and closes. The strobbing is used for red eye as well as focusing!! Good Luck.....I hope that this helps you!!
Thanks again,
John
No worries on picking and choosing. I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any further issues or questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Do you have this camera or the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )? The XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) was not released until summer of 2006. Either way, it sounds like you have an internal wiring issue with your camera. I would recommend you contact Canon repair ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) services or find a local repair provider ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). Because you purchased your camera two years ago, your warranty ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) will not cover it anymore; it is only good for 1 year. Good luck.
Andrew
Any LCD is going to be hard to see in sunlight. I personally like to have a camera with a viewfinder (digital or optical) instead. If you like the canon ELPH line, you might try the Canon SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) instead. It actually has slightly more optical zoom (4x vs 3.8x), manual exposure control, and it costs about $50 less. Personally, I would go with the SD850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) when choosing between the two. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks again!
-Dany :)
I wanted to add to Andrew's reply that the LCD on the 850 is slightly smaller (2.5" vs. 3.0", I believe) because the 850 makes room for that viewfinder. But as Andrew also pointed out, it will be a difficult go w/o a viewfinder if you are taking pics in the sun. About 3 mos. ago, I was also deliberating between the 850 and the 870. The 850 won out in the end! Good luck on your camera search!
And Andrew ... great pics on your site, BTW. Were you using the 850 for those pics??
Amy
You're more than welcome on the advice on the SD 850 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Amy,
Thanks for the assist on the recommendation. As for my site, I took those pictures with a variety of cameras. It really depends on which you look at. Most of them were taken with either the Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Some were taken with the Canon S2 IS and the SD230 as well.
Andrew
blackdoorphotos.deviantart....
usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... wishes, Larry
If you feel one of the reply's has sufficiently answered your question, please feel free to mark it as the best answer. If not, please let us know what else you would like to know so we can better answer your inquiries. Thanks again for using Digital Camera Headquarters.
Andrew
Larry
Jonathan
The best type of lens will really be defined for what kind of phtography you're doing with it. If you are doing commercial product photography, I would recommend a nice 50mm, f/2.8 lens. If you are shooting sports or wildlife, a long lens (300mm plus), with a tripod would be great. Wedding photography calls for something more versatile like a 18-200mm telephoto. As a good all round lens that won't run you a lot of money, you might try the Tamron 18-200mm aspherical lens ( tamron.links.channelintelli... ). Its a great walking around lens for around $400. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I've shot sports with both the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They work great for sports photography. The thing you'll need to get is a "fast" lens (one with f/2.8 or less and with good zoom). While the lens is expensive, you'll need it with either camera body when you start to work in lower light situations or indoors. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Although the minimal shutter speed of Rebels is 1/4000 (30D has 1/8000), I think Rebels are fast enough even when shooting sports (usually 1/2000 is fast enought to "freeze" the motion). More important would be a fast (telephoto) lens.
Michal
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew
If you already have the Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), I would not recommend purchasing the 10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). While the body is a little more sturdy, you're going to lose resolution on an older model. If you're looking to upgrade to the D series, without losing as much (in both resolution and your budget), I would go with the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is two generations up from the 10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), maintains over 8MP resolution, and has the great quality of this camera line. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Not a problem. If you feel we have answered your question appropriately, please mark the best answer selection. If not, please feel free to elaborate with more. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
But the cheapest I was able to find for an 18-55 EF lens is around $200. And in that price point (below $150), you're going to be stuck with a 3rd tier lens manufacturer with slow autofocus and inferior glass.
I would agree with the above posting, but I've taken great photos with my 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). What really helps is a good lens. You will need a 300mm plus lens, and it should also have a wide aperture to let enough light in. I would recommend f/4 or lower (preferrably an f/2.8). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
For a better description (based on the camera you want to get, and the exact lens you're referring to), contact Canon via E-mail and they will give you a more detailed response. For now, I'll just tell you that you'll be stuck in manual mode with both of these accessories on a dSLR.
I would go for the EOS400D compared to the 30D, simply because it's $300 cheaper. :) I think the 30D has the ability to do more frames/second shooting (restricted, and it does have a lower resolution), but the image quality is identical (especially with RAW, with the 400D being a little better because of the extra megapixels), both cameras have phenomenal performance specs, they're easy to use and have a ridiculous amount of options. I just don't personally think the $300 is warranted. But that's your call, I can't even afford either of these cameras, anyway :) Enjoy!!
What type of speed are you looking for? Continuous shooting should be about 3fps on that camera. In low light, your individual pictures shouldn't take more than 1/2 second to focus/shoot if you're using the correct ISO. Remember, with a tripod, you can keep the ISO low, BUT that won't stop your subject from blurring in the meantime when they move. Tripods, in lowlight situtations, should be left to things like the wedding cake, unity candle, and other nonmoving items. When using the tripod for shots of people, you'll definitely want either a flash or a higher ISO (or both, depending on how far away they are). My rule of thumb is that if I can't keep the camera stable enough when taking pictures of people to avoid blur, the exposure will be too long to avoid the subject from blurring as well.
Also make sure your batteries are fresh, so the flash it optimal in strength and speed.
As for the lenses, the autofocus on the 28-135MM lens may be slightly noticeably longer at the 135MM end, but nothing to detract from performance (it's only a few X zoom).
ALINE
I was starting my researches with a " compact ' S3 or5 IS ...small , nice , image Stab., 12x zoom....but then I got into " well maybe its time for me to step forward " and im looking into Slr ...but I DONT know anything about them!!
I want something good but not to expensive small and light in order for me to be able to take it everywhere.
Now that i think the 350d is ok for me I dont know anything about lenses.
So the lenses (18-55) that come w/ it are not so good , I should buy only the body...right??
What lens should I get???
Im totally ignorant :))
going crazy in researching and reading review...
found this on amazon ( amazon.com/Sigma-70-300mm-2... ). What do you think???
Which lens should I get for indoors?? and outdoors?? Ok zoom???
Image stab. do I really need it??
Thanks!!
I'd take a look at the Canon Digital Rebel XTi/400D, rather than the 350D. Reason being is image stabilization, 10.1 MP (an upgrade from the 350d's 8.0mp) 9-point CMOS sensor auto focus and a larger lcd screen!
Adapting other lenses seldom work to your expectations.
I found another web site with many on line stores very convenient ...
shopcartusa.com/P_Canon_Dig... anyone know about any of them???
Thanks Laura
Actually, now that I think about it, I bought two Canon Powershots AND one Canon camcorder, all from NewEgg. Also a mem card.
Im looking in bying the 350d which ll be my first slr ! I have no idea which lenses can be the best for me....I know I wanna be able to have a good zoom and a good wide angle.
But im more interested about the zoom ! AFFORDABLE price too !
Please help me finf the right for me!
thanks Laura
I'm not sure what "affordable" means to you, so here are a few good lenses at different prices. I'll let you decide your cost!
1.) amazon.com/Canon-75-300mm-4... Under $200 for a 300mm zoom lens? Yes, there's some compromise, including slower focus and no image stabilization. But as long as you're not photographing sports, you should be OK.
2.) amazon.com/Canon-28-135mm-3... A beautiful, beautiful lenses for all things non-superzoom. Expensive, but worth it. $380, but I'm sure you can find it cheaper. If you want wide-angle, and to get a feel for your camera before jumping into super zoom, this is a great place to start. You can even get a teleconverter lens for additional magnification, if you want to avoid a superzoom lenses altogether. As it stands, this is about a 4x optical zoom, with a teleconverter probably allowing you up to a 7x optical zoom.
3.) amazon.com/Canon-70-300mm-4... If there is a superzoom lens for Canon better than this one, I don't know about it (anyone else, I'm more than happy to hear recommendations!). Super expensive (~$550), but with a teleconverter lens, you effectively could get 20x optical out of this lens. Notice, it starts at 70mm, not 35mm. You're not going to get good indoor shots with this lens!
A good photographer always has at least 2 lenses, one for indoor and one for zooming. You'll have to decide where you stand and what you'll use it for. Something like #2 is a good start. I'd look around for awhile for the best deal before jumping in.
wow! well to start thanks for your help!!
What do you think about the lens that came with the camera?? is it good for indoor ??
I really wanted to have a good zoom and well yes image stabilization! but wow I dont want to spend that much money !
This ll be my 1st slr camera and i know I ll have a lot to learn!
any other suggestion ???
I love taking pictures and I know by doing this kind of investment I ll be able to do more that I did till now...
What a lens compare to a 12X zoom???
Laura
The Canon 350D comes in a kit, or just the body. The "kit" costs about $100 more, and includes a 15-55mm lens. This will give you the wide-angle you're looking for, but extremely limited zoom (a conversion lens would be worthless for this lens). You can get a Sigma 28-70mm lens for $80, which gives you the wide-angle and a little longer zoom.
It all depends what you're looking for. You're entering an expensive hobby :) The lens that comes with the kit isn't a "great" deal that would make you want to get the kit, but it's a good lens. The zoom is extremely limited, and will require you to get a long-zoom lens sometime, which will cost you about $300-400 for a good image stabilized one you're looking for (assuming you shop around). But you can get that down the line, when you've learned the camera and decided that photography is something you really want to invest in.
Otherwise, there are plenty of good super-zoom non-dSLR cameras like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ18, coming out soon. It has a 28mm-504mm (18x!) zoom and will probably retail for around $400, give or take. It will even record in RAW format!!
This investment you're diving in is expensive. And the lenses are a lifetime commitment -- unless you somehow break them, you won't need to upgrade your lenses. But if you want the superzoom ability, the chance to shoot in RAW mode so you can experiment with post-process, and are concerned with price, you may want to determine if you want to take the big jump.
which web site is the best one ?
RefurbDepot.com or digitalfotoclub.com?
Did anyone ever bought a camera in one of this online stores?
Thanks!
There sites are as reputable or moreso. Hope that helps, Laura.
thanks you so much for your answer !
So did you ever buy anything in one of those 2 sites??
I m honestly a little skeptic about buying a camera on line ( on sites that I dont know) cause someone else told me ( about a different web site not to trust it )...
What about the ones I asked about ? know anything about them ? Just curios ! :)
Laura
I bought my camera from online, actually. The best price for mine was dell.com at the time. But I never had a problem with online orders of electronics. A site that has thousands of customer reviews didn't get there by screwing over their customers. Any online purchasing site with thousands of reviews and reviews 4/5 stars or better are generally safe.
And here's a breakdown from another site on how they rate:
Past 3 Months Past 6 Months All-time
Positive (4 or 5) 4 30 983
Neutral (3) 0 2 91
Meanwhile, the news for Digital Foto Club is more positive:
Overall Customer Satisfaction Rating
Six-Month Rating: 9.43 / 10
Six-Month Reviews: 74
Lifetime Reviews: 1693
Lifetime Rating: 9.06 / 10
Negative (1 or 2) 3 12 275
Total Reviews 7 44 1349
Avg Rating 3 Star Review (out of 5)
3.14 4 Star Review
3.70 4 Star Review
3.84
And yet, ePinions isn't impressed, only giving 3 out of 5.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
10. Faster lenses will also help. The 4stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
The adapter can be found at <a href="amazon.com/Canon-Lens-Body-... location</a>
You will not be able to use auto exposure and auto focus function of the dSLR but I suppose you will be alright since you are experienced in using the FT.
Frankly, I don't think this is a good idea. I know you love those FT lenses, but in trying to bridge a 40 year gap, you may run into more problems than it's worth.
Tom
Good luck.
If there is nothing covering any of the sensors then you should send this one back because is is simply defective.
Good Luck
Depending on your computer, you may need to download the drivers for the camera (or install them off the CD), but after that you can just grab them directly off the camera.
Since my computer doesn't have a CF port, that's the way I grab all the pictures off my camera. Just be sure you either have a fresh battery or the camera is on external power when you start downloading.
Hope this helps.
when I go to eos utility my camera blinks busy, do you know why?
It's normal behaviour.
I've done extensive looking through the manual and don't see anything about taking pictures without a card except for what I've written above. At this point in time I don't think you have anything to lose by inserting a CF card and seeing if the images get written to the card.
There's also a setting in the menu called "Shoot w/o card" found in the 4th menu over (page 41 of the manual if you have a copy handy, and you can download a PDF copy from Canon if you've misplaced yours: alpha03u.c-wss.com/inc/Appl... is where I found it) and you can set it so you can't take any pictures without a CF card inserted.
It might not help this time, but it would prevent the problem from happening again.
I can't guarantee it, but your images might still be in your camera if you can insert a CF card before you replace the battery.
Good luck.
The only way to get pictures from the XT is to shoot them onto a CF card in the first place. The setting mentioned above (Shoot w/o Card off) will keep this from happening again.
With a dSLR it's always best to get used to using full Manual mode to fully exploit the camera's potential. The basics of getting the best night shot are as follows (assuming you want crisp, un-blurred shots):
1. Select a high shutter speed. The higher the shutter speed the better the camera is at stopping the action. Unfortunately, higher shutter speed means less light has time to get in through the lens and your pictures will be underexposed. There are two ways to compensate for this, the first of which is...
2. Selecting a wider aperture. The wider the aperture the more light gets in through the lens--the more light that gets in, the better the exposure. You want to select the lowest f-stop possible (f2.8, for example) for the zoom setting you're at. The more zoom you use, the narrower the aperture you'll be forced to use.
3. Raising the ISO setting. The higher the ISO the more "light-sensitive" the digital image sensor is. Higher light sensitivity means a better exposure, but when you get into the higher ISO settings serious image noise can start to creep in, so use this sparingly and as a last resort.
Getting great night time images is a tightrope walk of balancing these three settings (and sometimes sparingly using flash), so spend some time playing around with them until you get the results you want. The XT is a very capable camera... the pictures are there to get, you'll just have to do some work to get them.
Good luck!
However, the T50 was before EFs time, using the FD mount and as such, you would need an adapter in order to use them. The adapter would need optics in it for infinity focus and would tend to act as a weak multipliers. This would mean an f-stop loss of about 1-2 and also clarity issues.
It would also mean that you don't get autofocus, nor any other automatic function while you are using the camera. You would be on total manual operation.
And with the light land clarity issues, I'm not sure it's really worth the effort. Better to sell those lenses on eBay and then buy EF mount lenses to accomodate the XT.
dpreview.com/reviews/canone... to buy the body alone, and buy a good lens separately.
You can, at the same time download other useful items from the same site.
What happens in your case is the mirror and shutter curtains have moved out of the way, but on your part, you have not done anything to clean the sensor. So while you are waiting, the camera's chip is also waiting ..........
To understand this function better, read the discussion on the subject at <a href="photography-on-the.net/foru... location</a>
You should be able to find all you need on Amazon. They're typically the cheapest, and sometimes people sell their used equipment there as well:
amazon.com/Canon-430EX-Spee...
But just buying an IS lens for the existing XT won't really give you IS.
Another option is to make life easy on yourself and get a more point and shoot option for the trip so you don't have to lug and change lenses all the time. I would recommend a mid-range camera that image stabilization as a standard feature. I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode.
This is great for sports and action photography.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alterations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.
I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
Then you'd have your serious hobby rig, and your vacation camera which anyone can use so you can get in the photo as well.
One last thing, after you ride Mission Space (and you will), have your picture taken in the Pavillion with the family as a mission space crew. It's a great momento.
I would guess that it would be more convienent to just switch an entire lens instead of messing around with the screwing and unscrewing of the different magnifiers, but are there other reasons that a relative neophyte like me wouldn't think of?
I appreciate any assistance you can lend.
Now, onto your question. There are lenses for every budget and distance range. Since you already have the wide angle covered in your 18-55, you may want to look into a 70-300mm telephoto. Canon also has an IS version which works in concert with the XTi's image stabilization feature. And you want to be able to get the fastest lens you can afford. The "f stop" rating will tell you how fast they are - the lower the F, the faster the lens.
For instance, the EF 70-300mm IS USM has an f rating of f/4-5.6, whereas the EF 70-200mm IS USM is faster with a rating of f/2.8.
Thanks for that info, I'm quite liking the 350d and as its my first slr I don't need anything to complex just yet. Will the IS lens work on the 350d? I'm looking at getting a Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 dg macro do you rate this lens or should i try and hold out for the is version you mentioned?
Many thanks for all your help mat
To answer your question, NO and Yes!
No because the AE-1 was released in the late 70's and used a mount system called FD. this would be the same as your lens.
Canon introduced the Eos system in the late 80's with an EF lens mount incorporating Autofocus etc.
therefor the lens wont fit, ...directly!
I Have seen on eBay an adopter which connects between FD lens and the EF camera but would mean that the lens would still be manual.
i hope that you find this holpfull,
regards
John.
Alternatively, you can right click the picture, select ' copy image' and paste it on a blank page of MS Paint which you access by clicking 'Start' > 'Accessories'>Paint. It can then be saved as a JPEG file.
x
PS this is also the case whichever metering mode is selected...but only in AI Servo mode
Regards Hugh
because the camera has no specific AI point selected,it'll hunt for the largest area of contrast and lock onto it.As you move the camera about this will change.If a selected AI point is selected, the camera's ability to track your subject will be confirmed with the selected AI light lighting up.
this the only way of keeping your subject in focus without other moving objects in the frame distracting your camera's AI.
i think you'll agree that a blinking light would be handy to confirm what the camera is focused on rather than you scanning your eye around the frame to see what is.
I hope that this helps you with the AI system.
regards
john
i tested my own 350 to double confirm its not a fault,
happy panning...
regards
John(",)
Telescopes usually connect to SLR camera via T-mount connector. First of all you need to read the manual of your telescope and find out if it has the option to connect to a camera. Then find out if there has to be an additional adapter between the telescope and T-mount. Those adapters often come with the telescope. Finally, you have to go to a camera store and ask for T-mount adapter for a Canon dSLR.
Now in need of recommendations for a circular polarizer for this lens as well as a uv filter (should it be multicoated?). Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
Most of filters are multicoated. However, since it is easy to edit digital pictures with software such as Photoshop, it really does not matter too much.
Both UV and CP filters are always essential. UV filter should be attached all time (unless you are using another filter) since it protects the lens too. The lens has inner focusing system. It means that the front of the lens does not rotate and therefore it is very convinient to use CP filter also.
I ALMOST bought the Canon A700 when it came out. A month later, the A710IS came out, with Image Stabilization, which I did buy. The A700 is going to be a collector's item, maybe in 2107.
You could sell it on eBay and then apply the money to the purchase of a new one. Keep the lenses, sell the body.
The only thing to remember is that due to the size of the sensor, you need to multiply the focal length by 1.6 which means your 28mm will become 28 x 1.6 or about 44.8mm and your 105mm becomes 105 x 1.6 or about 168mm.
If you're looking for similar quality in a wider angle lens, you might try the Canon EF-S 17-85mm IS Lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... ). The IS will give you more stabilization for lower speeds, the 17-85mm range will cover the gap between your current lens with the telephoto, and the Canon name will give you the quality you're looking for. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
We've decided to go ahead and get the Canon EF-S 17-85mm IS Lens. Can you recommend a 67mm UV filter (should it be multicoated?) and also a circular polarizer for this lens. Thanks. Janet
Personally, I would go with the multi-coated filter. It will reduce the refractive properties of the glass in the filter. You can find one on RitzCamera.com ( ritzcamera.com/product/2416... ). As for a circular polarizer, they have one there ( ritzcamera.com/product/2416... ) too. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
If not, is this an autofocus lens? Maybe that part is out of whack. Is the image blurry on the LCD screen?
I haven't run into this at all. Instead of talking to the vendor, you might try using a pencil eraser on the gold pins where your lenses contact your camera. A full write up how to clean it by another user is here ( richardsnotes.org/archives/... ). If that doesn't help, you might try contacting Canon ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) for help.
Andrew
Andrew
i just got my camera back from repairs. it really was the shutter. it was replaced and the entire camera serviced. i'll still keep your hints about the lens connections in mind.
thanks again,
lennie
Glad it worked out for you. Come back if you have any more questions.
Andrew
You might try cold starting the camera. Take the battery out and leave the camera off for about 30 seconds to a minute. Return the battery and CF card, ensuring they are fully inserted, and see if that works. If not, you might have a connector error in the CF card slot. I would contact Canon tech support ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) if that is the case.
Andrew
RYAN
If you do not wish to buy Canon lenses to match your Canon Rebel XT, I should think that Quantaray Tech-10 70-300 will be a good alternative.
I did the same for my Nikon SLR when I first started working, buying Tamron lenses to fit the Nikon body. Only years later, when I get more established that I started buying Nikon lenses. For home use, probably this is the next best solution.
I have been trying some of the Quantarays and ended up selling them all later. Bukit is right- they have been around for some years. But the quality is still too poor even for using on the cheapest SLRs (I have D50). Same thing about their tripods, they just don't work. But I still have some Quantaray filters, they look OK to me.
Good luck!
Are the photos downloading, or do you just get the busy signal? Make sure your computer is on first while your camera is off. Plug the camera in, make sure the dial is on play for the photos, then turn it on. This may work better. A memory card reader that connects to your computer through a USB port might also be a good connection. You can download just as fast and not waste your camera's batteries. Good luck.
Andrew
P.S. If you are taking more serious portrait shots, maybe to sell or publish, you might consider investing what you were planning to spend on an extra lens, on better lighting...this will make all the difference in portrait shots.
I just wanted to add that Sarah hit this on the head. Unless you've noticed yourself as someone badly in need of image stabilization, I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage in the game- you can, of course, invest in some fancy lenses later on down the road when you figure out what you like. If you do really want to buy a lens rather than the kit lens, though, can I recommend Canon's EF 50mm f/1.8 lens? It retails for about eighty bucks and lots of people are happy with it for portraiture- indoor, low light, etc. <a href="the-digital-picture.com/Rev... a review of it. And yes, it is kind of flimsy; that's part of why it's so cheap.
My advice, though, is to play with the kit lens and see what does and doesn't work with it, and what focal lengths you feel most comfortable at, so you'll better know what to look for in a replacement lens.
Thanks to everyone for the help!
Another contender to compare against the 50mm is the Canon 35mm f/2.0 lens. It's built more solidly than the 50mm and also gives slightly sharper results (although I don't have any complaints about image quality on the 50mm, the 35 is a little better). Also, it may be more flexible in terms of focal length. The 50mm will get you some good close-up face/ head/ shoulders portraits, but may not be wide enough for general use whereas the 35mm (times the 1.6x of the camera body) equals 56mm, which is awfully close to a 'general' field of view and should yield good results under typical daily conditions.
If you can play with both before you buy, do so. I think one or the other will suit your needs.
It just turned blurry and purple in the middle of shooting pictures. Checked the batteries. Any suggestions?
This is a known issue with some models of Canon cameras. What has happened is that your camera's imaging sensor (CCD) has become partially or fully detached from its wiring. Luckily, Canon has acknowledged the fault and is offering to repair any and all affected units for free (including free shipping both ways), whether they're under warranty or not. You can read the applicable service notice ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and then request a repair online ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Good luck!
Beyond the consumer range, well, you're obviously getting into dSLR territory (or, as your son put it, "serious" cameras). When you jump to dSLRs you not only hike the price way up for the body, you're also looking at serious money for lenses. A very long zoom lens of any kind of quality is going to run you in the hundreds of dollars. Of course, you'll be able to take incredible photos, but you'll probably be well over $1000 total once you've bought the camera, lenses, and accessories.
There's not really an easy answer here, unfortunately.
You are overlooking DIGITAL zoom (or cropping)!! If Priscilla is willing to settle for 4x6 prints, then look what she can do with a 12x optical zoom, coupled with a 6 to 7 megapixel sensor*: Use 3x digital zoom (or crop in a photo editor on a PC, same thing). That is the exact equivalent of 6/3 = 2 megapixels or 7/3 = 2.33 megapixels. So now your 12x camera is the equivalent of 36x power! And of course the 2 megapixels size is plenty good enough for 4x6 prints.
* Canon S3IS or Sony H5.
Richio
A Digital Rebel wouldn't be too big of a jump, no. Most digital SLRs have very, very good automatic modes that are just as easy to use as any smaller digital's auto mode. Either the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice.
If you want to save a few dollars and you don't mind straying from the Canon brand, there are several less expensive dSLRs out there--you might consider the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These can be had for around $500 w/a kit lens--usually not that great for zoom purposes, so you'd probably have to buy a long zoom lens. I don't know all that much about lenses, but I do know that, as I said above, a very long zoom lens is going to mean big big $$$.
Hope this helps. :)
Looks like I've got a new boat anchor. You don't think I have a sour taste in my mouth?
Australians who live outside of Sydney, beware.
HTH2
That's pretty backwards-thinking of them. Seems like if there's a service advisory out for a large chunk of the world (I think South and Southeast Asia are covered as well), the entire planet ought to get recall service, doesn't it? If you feel like a fight, I'd suggest harassing them and pointing out that this very same problem gets very different results in another hemisphere. See if you can guilt them into some kind of compromise.
Sorry for your troubles.
PS e-mail accepting repair 1/9/08
e-mail stating it shipped on 1/15/08, 1/16/08
received 1/17/08
Found another link imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1...
I have the same problem with my S1 IS and I called the customer service centre. They asked me to turn on the camera and asked me to press the menu button. Asked me if it was blurry while the menu was on. On my camera the image is blurried only in the picture shooting mode. I can get the photos displayed on the screen perfectly. Was this the case with your camera too?
I remember a friend of mine also getting a new camera when he had a similar problem. I hope I too get a new camera
Thank you VERY much for posting the problem and the solution on this site. I just experienced this problem with my camera this week, and found your wonderful information on the web today. Thank you! I'll be contacting Canon tomorrow.
Again, I very much appreciate you making the time to post the issue and the solution on the web so many other people can benefit. That was very nice of both of you, and I really appreciate it.
Best regards,
Mark
I reside in India and I had the same issue with the Canon S1 IS - purple screen and unable to shoot. I took it to the nearest authorized service center and they have offered to replace my camera with a brand new S5 IS !!! The waiting time is somewhere around 4-6 weeks. But the service center guys want their pound of flesh too (since it is a franchise). They just brought up some arcane problem and said that it had to be fixed before being presented for replacement. Costs around $50 equivalent. But, what the heck, don't mind it as long as I get the spanking new 8MP S5 :-)
Is it a 100% guarantee that everyone who has this problem gets a new camera?
I guess last spring they didn't have the sensors to fix the problem and that's why they were sending out new S5s.. darn my luck.. still, it's great that they step up and fix it, way out of warranty (mine's 4 years old).
I am having the same problem as the purple screen and being unable to shoot with my S1-IS. I am wondering if the free repair and shipping is still available (Ben's posting: Jan 16, 2007) because whenever I try to request a repair, it gives me a cost of around $149. Mine is almost 4.5 years old and was performing as good as new before this happened.
ya Shelly i got the same 149$ Estimate on repair quote i hope i dont have to pay 150$ to fix a recall product
arf.harrysolutions.com
... luck
Harry Melamed
aka Crazy Harry
www.crazy-harry.com
This blurred background is called bokeh (prounounced boh keh). To achieve this bokeh, a lens that can open up the aperture (the aperture is measured by the F value of the lens, the smaller the number, the bigger the lens can open. Eg. F5.6 is a smaller aperture than F2.8 - to simplify the F series number, put a 1/ and convert the F value to a fraction.. eg 1/5.6 is smaller than 1/2.8)
The stock lens that comes with the Rebel is ok, but not my favorite for portrait shooting. With the 1.6 FOV factor of the sensor (this changes the effective crop of the lens to be 1.6 times the actual zoom value. If you have a 30mm lens, 30mm x 1.6 = 48mm), you want to be at about 80 - 135mm of range, and I personally recommend an aperture of F4.0 or larger (so, F2.8, F2.0 etc). I use an 50mm F1.4 lens and I typically shoot at F3.5 to F4.0.
Why the longer lens ? You are going to get better bokeh, and as well, you are not in the animal's face with your camera and lens. It is much easier to keep a bit of distance between subject and shooter with a longer lens and that will provide the needed features to give a nice subject with creamy soft blurry backgrounds.
Hope this helps.
Honestly, for a beginning SLR photographer, there's not a huge difference between the XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and XTi. The three main differences are the XTi's higher resolution (albeit coming from the same sized image sensor), a larger and higher resolution LCD screen, and a better continuous shooting mode. The XTi also features an automatic dust-cleaning filter that will reportedly keep your imaging sensor from getting dirty--it's a nice feature, but probably not worth the $$$ premium.
Honestly, I'd go with the XT and put the money you save toward an additional lens or two. Bodies aren't really the most important part of SLR shooting... it's the glass that really makes the difference.
Good luck!
Check with the sales assistant about the Ex-series speedlite that will best meet your requirement.
Light from your flash becomes less intense as it travels further from the camera. At two feet, the light is half as bright as it was at one foot. At four feet the light is half as bright as it was at two feet and so on and so forth.
If you set up four rows of people and take a picture of them with the flash on your camera, you will find that the front row are lit properly by your camera's flash while the back row are noticeably darker. If you were able to adjust your camera to expose for the back row of people then the front row of people would appear to be glowing.
This same principle applies to photographs of your "scenes". Imagine a scene as the fourth row of people in the shadows. As the background gets to be further away from the camera there will be less light reaching it.
Fortunately, there are a few solutions that are much less expensive than buying a whole new camera. The Fuji FinePix 5200 is a very competent camera and has a "night" mode that will help you if you are shooting pictures of a group of people in front of a scene. You will get best results from this mode if you use a tripod to hold your camera steady for you during the picture. This will also allow you to use the self timer so you can run into the picture and be there with everyone else.
The night mode was designed specifically for taking pictures in the situation you described in your question.
Another solution would be to but one or two portable slave flashes such as the digi slave flash from www.srelectronics.com. There are other flashes on the market... this is just the first one I found that will do what you want. These work by adding a second light that you could place between the group of people and the scene that you want a picture of to provide additional illumination.
I would try using the night mode first then try the slave.
The Canon 350D is a nicer camera than the one you currently have but I believe that the camera you are using will do a fine job is you take advantage of the features it has.
I will definately try Zagatto's suggestion of using the night mode and a tripod with the Fuji FinePix 5200 for our next evening cabaret. I try to get candid and spontaneous shots as well, so I'll also give it a try without the tripod.
As our department is permitted an upgrade, I am thinking that the Canon 350D will do nicely, and bukit97's suggestion to purchase an external flash will be heeded.
Looking forward to better pictures!
I still have my warrenty so do you think Sony would take it back and fix it for me? (I am aware the warrenty only covers manufacture's defects, but I was wondering if they would still repair it for me... even for a fee.)
What can I do?
Do not waste your time or money shipping it in for repair. If you really love the camera replace it. It will cost less than any repair.
Andrew
Depending on what lens types your wife's pentax has, you can get a lens adapter on various online sites. Ebay ( cgi.ebay.com/Pentax-K-PK-Le... ) has the K PK type mount to the EOS body for an excellent price. I hope this helps.
Andrew
It seems like the Err 99 message is fairly common with Canon's Rebel line of dSLRs. Furthermore, it's a sort of catch-all error for many different problems including lens errors, battery problems, and memory card problems. However, the vast majority of those reporting the problem seem to think it has to do with their lenses. There are some very extensive discussions of the problem <a href="photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... and <a href="richardsnotes.org/archives/... The latter link suggests a fix (cleaning the lens mount contact points), but as you'll see from the comments it doesn't work for all users.
The problem here is that if it's a lens problem, Canon's customer service people will probably tell you to contact Quantaray and ask them if their lens is compatible with the 350D or not--chances are Quantaray hasn't tested it or will refuse to give you a clear answer one way or another. You can try to send the 350D back to Canon for a repair, but even if they accept it as a defect and repair it, you might have the problem again. That seems to be the experience that a lot of users have had, anyway.
I'd attempt the quick fix suggested above and see if it works. If not, contact Canon and see what they have to say about it. Beyond that, your guess is as good as mine. Good luck!
I've also had the error99, but with actual Canon lenses. What seems to fix it for me is removing the battery and putting it back in again, in a sense "rebooting" the camera. But I've been told that it also happens when there's a lens-camera issue, as mentioned above.
The 400D/XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) should be perfect for her if she's not looking to go full-time pro. Take a look at the user reviews! :)
Hope this helps.
I don't think you should have any reservations selecting the FZ50 from among its peers. It is by far the most powerful camera in its class. I myself have used it, Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and Canon's S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which is by all accounts extremely similar to the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), if not a little superior on the image front). The FZ50 was a pleasure to use, and felt the most solid and SLR-like in my hands. I didn't notice any problems with noise that detracted significantly from its use, and definitely not any greater noise than I saw on the other models I mentioned.
That said, under your $600 limit there are several digital SLRs (with kit lens) that you might want to consider. The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had for $578 (with lens) at Amazon. The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) can be had for a similar price (cheaper with a shorter range lens). The Canon Rebel XT (350D) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also in this range. Without a lens, each of these cameras is under $500 (some close to $400) and you can probably find decent used lenses on eBay and the like. Of course, with a memory card and other accessories (not to mention inevitable extra lenses) you'll end up over $600 eventually, but it's something worth considering. Finally, the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (same as the K100D, minus built-in image stabilization) is an incredible $432 after a $50 rebate at Amazon, with lens.
All of that said... if you want to stay out of the SLR realm, the FZ50 is a fantastic choice.
Good luck!
If you're asking about the pixels' relationship with image quality, that depends on several things. First of all, dSLRs will always provide better image quality than non SLRs because their imaging sensors are much, much larger. A typical 6MP sensor in a non-SLR, for example, is about 5.76 x 4.29mm. Meanwhile, the 6MP sensor on the K100D is 23.5 x 15.7mm (basically 4x as large). What this means is that each pixel receptor is given more room and therefore more light, which means lower image noise and the ability to capture higher quality images at high ISO sensitivities.
Furthermore, higher megapixel numbers doesn't necessarily imply better image quality. Sometimes, manufacturers will cram more pixels onto the same size sensor (for example, putting 8 million pixels onto a sensor the same size as the non-SLR 6MP sensor above). This does the opposite of what the SLRs' larger sensors do, increasing noise at higher ISO sensitivities and generally lowering image quality. The main advantage of higher resolution in consumer digitals is the ability to make larger prints.
In short, I wouldn't worry about it too much, so long as the image quality is good.
13 seconds sounds like a ridiculous exaggeration by any standard, and $130 for any 2gb SD card is a huge ripoff. I'd check sites like newegg.com or even amazon.com for much more reasonable deals. Take a look at this one ( newegg.com/Product/Custrati... ), for example.
It sounds to me like the salesperson is trying to scam you. I'd avoid whichever store that was entirely and do your shopping from reputable internet merchants. I've personally used both newegg and amazon with great results.
Good luck!
-XTI has 10.5 megapixels, XT has 8.2
-XTI has larger resolution
-XTI offers more options for sharpness, contrast, color, tone etc.
-XTI has 9 focus points, XT has 7
-XT operates slightly faster in terms of shutter lag
-XTI has larger LCD
-XTI has dust-removal feature built in to keep CCD sensor clean
-XTI has stainless steel body parts, XT has aluminum (both also have plastic)
I can't think of much else right now. The main things are the pixels and the shooting options, which the XTI has more of. How advanced are you in terms of digital camera operation? If you're not an expert and not especially interested in being one, I certainly think the XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) should do you just fine. It's cheaper so you can spend your extra $ on a nice lens. =)
I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on eBay. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Andrew
As for the 5D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- yes it's gorgeous, yes it's expensive, and it's also got a bigger sensor with less pixels 'crowded' onto it. It's a better camera. But it may not be what you need particularly if you can't afford it.
Here are some image tests that might help you decide, pay special attention to the low light shots:
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
<a href="imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... test</a>
I shoot weddings as well and have been able to maintain good shots with the Rebel XT. If you want to upgrade and save on money, the Rebel XTi might be a good way to go. Another way to save is to look for a used Canon 20D on eBay. They are very fast and have very clear and crisp shots. It won't have a warranty, but you'll love the versatility.
Linda
There are several dSLRs that offer solid continuous burst mode shooting. I'll try and detail them for you here.
Under $1500, Canon's 8MP <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... 30D</a> is going to get you the fastest FPS at 5FPS for up to 30 consecutive images. You can find it for around $1200, but since it's pretty much a pro camera, that's without a kit lens. With the kit lens you're looking at more like $1300 or $1400. And, as I'm sure you know, you'll probably want to get a couple more lenses and that'll end up running you several hundred dollars more.
Other 8MP dSLRs under the $1500 limit: The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT</a>, which costs about half the price of the 30D and gets 2.8FPS for 14 shots. The Olympus E-500 and E-330, which get 2.5FPS each, shooting continuously until your memory card is full. These are even cheaper than the Digital Rebel.
If you're willing to step down to the 6-7MP range, there are several other options, including the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... D40</a> at 2.5FPS unlimited and the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... E-330</a> at 3FPS unlimited.
Finally, there's the brand new <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A100</a>, which gets 3FPS unlimited but boasts a huge 10MP sensor. It's been fairly well reviewed and it's quite reasonably priced at roughly $800-1000.
I hope this helps you narrow down your choices. Good luck!
The biggest advantage that the Rebel has over the 30D is price. It's going to be roughly half the cost of the 30D, or possibly even less if you catch it at a black friday special. Pretty much everywhere else it's going to be inferior to the 30D, except in size and weight. Is the average non-pro going to find the 30D's extra features worth double the price? Probably not.
However, the extras ARE nice. The 30D's build quality is a lot more solid (more metal, less plastic). It is more adjustable in just about every manual setting. It has a sharper LCD display. And it does get that nice 5FPS mark in burst mode, nearly double the Rebel's 2.8. It's a camera that will last you for years to come, and hold up in the toughest conditions.
One other camera you might want to consider is the new Digital Rebel XTi/400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's an upgrade to the Digital Rebel that brings it marginally nearer to the privileged status held by the 30D. It offers a 10MP sensor, a minor jump to 3FPS, and retails only a little higher than the Rebel.
I'm not sure how much this will ultimately help you. The only other thing I can suggest is that you go to your local electronics superstore and see how each of the cameras actually feels in your hand. Many times, this is the deciding factor when you're down to just a few choices.
Good luck!
costco.com/Browse/Product.a... can also get a new Rebel Xti from Costco. This deal is valid until Jan 2007. I hope this helps!
Aileen
the grips on the Rebel XT and Rebel XTi are a little cramped and will most likely become uncomfortable after a while. I'd suggest going to a store and checking it out for yourself.
Honestly, all of the cameras listed above will meet your needs and then some. However, there are some subtle differences between them that might make a difference to you, so let's cover them. First, let's cover the differences between the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and try to pick a contender from those two to face off against the 350D.
The D40 is a pretty subtle upgrade/downgrade case. In many ways, it's been improved over the D50. It's got a higher resolution LCD display. It's smaller overall, but it has a larger viewfinder and shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout. It's got a considerably upgraded user interface, as well. It can now shoot continuously in JPEG mode until you run out of memory space, which is pretty fantastic (though why you would ever want to shoot that many in a row is beyond me). Perhaps most important of all, the street price for the kit (body + lens) is about $300 lower than the D50's was at the time it was launched. On the other side of the coin, the D40 also does away with the D50's <a href="asia.cnet.com/i/r/2005/dc/3... LCD</a>, which told you the values of important manual settings. It's been removed mainly to make the camera smaller, but the end result is that you now have to call up those settings on the main LCD display. The D40 also does away with some of the manual controls from the D50, particularly the ability to customize your exposure steps. However, it does also add some new manual control, such as the ability to customize your auto ISO settings.
In short, I think the D40 offers the kind of upgrades that you're looking for (bigger viewfinder and sharper LCD, user-friendly interface, etc) at an acceptable cost. Of the two, it's the clear winner.
Now, choosing between the D40 and the 350D is another story. You'll find thousands of arguments across the internet over the quality difference between this brand and that, particularly in the shallow end of the dSLR pool. Canon loyalists will tell you that Nikon cameras have higher noise despite their larger sensor and fewer megapixels. Nikon loyalists will tell you that Canons have issues with autofocus "hunting" (inability to focus quickly) in low light. There's a good example of such a debate here ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ). Frankly, since the D40 has yet to be reviewed by any of the major sites, it's hard to make a direct comparison between these two, so my final recommendation is that you go to your local big box electronics retailer when production models start hitting the shelves and see how each feels in your hand. Give the D50 a try, too--it certainly can't hurt. Ultimately it's that feel that is going to hook you, and the rest is just comparing statistics.
The D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a brilliant camera, but it's a step up in class from the other three we've discussed and thus also about $900-1000 more expensive. It's not really in competition with the lower-end SLRs that I just compared. It does have a fine viewfinder and LCD screen, and it outclasses these others by a mile and a half in most tech departments, but for the kind of photography it sounds like you'll be doing it might be overkill. The D200 is verging on serious pro equipment.
James is right on this, the basic 18-55mm lens that comes with the Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) should be more than adequate. I would recommend using the auto setting, or a shutter priority at 1/250th of a second if you have enough light. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
How do I find out if it EF compatible?
What is gthe adapter called?
What's the price range of the adapter, any ideas? If not I can always google it up...
If it is working with your current film EOS camera, then you should be able to transfer it over.
Andrew
You can actually find a good used or refurbished dSLR camera all over the web. Given, they don't come with a warranty, but the price is a lot better. If you're interested in the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), you might try looking for it or the Rebel XT/350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on eBay ( photography.search.ebay.com... ). I have seen kits with lenses and accessories for under $1000.
Andrew
You're more than welcome. Please feel free to come back and ask any other questions ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Andrew
Not sure if it's too late, but I would recommend one of the small Canon ELPH camera. They are very small and take amazing pictures. My brother has one of the old 2MB cameras and it works great. I'm sure the new updated ones work even better.
We just borrowed a family's digital camera--Nikon Coolpix S10. I like how it flips open and the large viewing screen, but there is still that lag time between flashes which makes the lag time bw pics about 7 sec. The fast mode works well, but its not like you can keep the camera on a perpetual fast mode just to get a few shots. I do love how it autoadjusts for low light--makes photoshopping faster.
How does the Canon XTi or the Rebel XT/350D compare?
Thanks so much!
Melissa
The problem with the Rebel is that it's a little big, where as the ELPH's are small and compact and take great pics.
I like this camera alot for the ultra portable
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
I used to have Canon's Speedlight 220EX for my EOS 10D, but eventually ponied up for the 440EX (not sure of the exact model numbers) because the 220 didn't have tilt and swivel.
You can save money with a Sigma or Tamron flash (any "for Canon" flash they make will work) instead of the Canon brand.
One other inexpensive item: a flash sync cord. It's just an extension cord so that you can move the flash around instead of plugging it into the hot shoe on the camera directly.
Andrew
Andrew
So anyway, I want to get a 350D, and I heard that the lens included with it is not very good for shooting things close-up. So I guess I should get just the body alone and buy a macro lens, which would be better for closeups, right?
I thought "EF-S60mm F2.8 macro USM lens" sounded like a good choice for close ups. But if I get that, I'm wondering, will I be able to take shots of things NOT close up(distant scenery, landscapes, groups of people, etc) or would I need a more standard and general lens for that? Would the distant shots look blurry or odd with a macro lens?
Also, how does such a lens handle various lighting situations? I wonder if it's not as good for dark shots, and so on.
Finally, any thoughts on my lens choice? Does it sound like what I need? A really complete answer is very appreciated, since I'm scared of throwing so much money at something when I only have a basic understanding of it. Any tips you wish to throw at me, a total rookie, are really welcome. Thanks to anyone who can answer this!
This Canon Site has everything! ( usa.canon.com/html/eflenses... )
Do you have any idea how much a lens like the one you say would cost? (I don't think they have prices anywhere on the whole of the Cannon site... that's really annoying.)
But anyway, thanks again!
It's like asking how does a VW compare with a Porche. Well, both get you where you're going, only one lets you do it faster. But both have their uses.
The 12x zoom usually compares to a max range of around 420 to 435mm. The minimum range of the zoom varies on the camera. I hope this helps. James is right when talking to the SLR cameras. You get a lot more range out of them because of the interchangeable lenses.
Andrew
I am worried I can pay a small fortune for a camera with all the gadgets and branding which I don't need.
I just want a camera which takes a high professional quality picture indoors and outside.
Can anyone give me the benefit of their experience please?
Many thanks
You could start out with an EOS Film SLR to save money. And then when you're ready to take the digital plunge, those lenses will work on a new Canon Digital. But make no mistake, shooting SLR quality pictures is an expensive hobby.
If I can work out how to get them to you I will send you the 20 points.
Thanks again
Richard Mabe
Was it a Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) that you have seen this done with? I have seen it done with a Canon 1D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and specially installed software, but not the former. Unless you want to download, the TV may be your only option.
Andrew
In addition to the AV port, the !D/1Ds series can allow the computer to take control of the camera and shoot with an immeditate download via firewire (MUCH faster than USB) or WiFi. The lower-end cameras tend to lack such sophisticated features.
So what is the best Canon Digital camera can I buy and a very sharp and clear picture shows all particulars and details in that picture and it is possible to change the lens. Thanks
Andrew
cameraworld.com.au/Canon_BG...
Excellent service and GREAT price.
Andrew
Andrew
A good 28-200 zoom or in that range is good for everyday use. I would go with that, and the lowest aperture settings you can afford for speed.
James is right on that, I'm researching the Tamron 18-200mm lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/t... ) right now for my next everyday lens. Its f/stop range is f/3.5-6.3. Not bad.
Andrew
Listed amoungst them are the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Kodak V705 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), they have bluetooth capabilty.
Sadly, both have lcd screens under 3".
However, Nikon is a premiere camera maker and if you get a classic 105mm Nikkor, you'll never want to lose it. So you can't go wrong with it, IMHO.
Not always.. If you read the fine print in a lot of recent 10 megapixel camera releases, you will notice a common statistic.. In most cases, the 10 meg images are not much better (if any) than the 8 meg images as far as resolution goes. They do produce a larger image but not always a better one.
The decision to make is "how big do you want to print out?". I have 5 meg images that I'm printing out to 16x20 with great quality. This is because I have a good camera with a great sensor, and as well, a great piece of glass on the end, and I use a tripod for the shots I know I'm going to print big.
I'm not saying to run out and get a 5 megapixel camera, but what I'm saying is that if price is your issue, cameras like the Nikon D70/D70s are falling in price, and as well the Canon Rebel XT (the 8 megapixel version of the XTi) is also falling.
Don't fall into the megapixel pit because in 2 years, 14 will be the new 10 and you will once again feel the need to upgrade. The quality of the image is determined by sensor, image processing firmware the camera (the image engine) and the glass that send the image to the sensor.
Any of the mentioned cameras (Nikon D50/70/70s and Canon XT/Xti) with a great lens on them will be great cameras that you can use for some time to come until you feel the overwhelming need to start printing out billboards.
If you are going to get good glass, you can expect the cost of that to equal or better the camera price.
For me personally, if I did not have a camera right now, it would be a toss up between the Reble XT and the D70s. (you can still find the D70 and D70s new in many photography stores).
Top of the line ... well, you can't argue with the EOS 5D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), except for the price, OUCH.
Max budget for the camera : $400
But I get from your question that you are more of a hobbyist who likes to take more than snapshots that some with family functions and the occasional vacation photo. You may want to go on photo safari's. You may want to experiment with b&w photography, sports shots, maybe even take a photography class, then I guess my question is, why wouldn't you want a camera that allows you to grow as you improve in your photography?
Perhaps a DSLR like the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Rebel 350D/XT</a> or, perhaps springing for it's beefier brother the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... granted, these are budget busters for you, and there are <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... options in the ballpark of your budget</a>. But the good news is that all these will also give you flexibility, options, and the ability to grow beyond being a novice.
But if you just want to stay within your budget, and simply go beyond point and shoot snapshots, then the P712 will certainly do the trick.
Just something to think about. And one last thing, whatever you decide, pick up a 1A Skylight filter for the lens to protect it. It's the best insurance policy you can buy to guard against impact damage.
<a href="en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cmos&... on the other hand, stands for "Complementary metal oxid semiconductor, and is a major class of integrated circuits. CMOS chips include microprocessor, microcontroller, static RAM, and other digital logic circuits, as well as some analog circuits such as image sensors."
Now, what does that mean in English? Well, CCDs take the light image that strikes the sensor and enables it to be recorded.
Whereas, CMOS converts images to digital representations. (this is an overly simplified explaination, mind you).
EOS ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon... ), is a Canon line of Cameras, but I suspect you already know this. It stands for "Electro-Optical System" and is primarily an autofocus camera which was designed by Canon (partnered with Kodak), that also has automatic and manual exposure functions and a host of other cool whistles and bells which have helped shutterbugs move out of the point and shoot world and into more creative aspects of photography that SLRs can provide.
Are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
Thank you,
The Canon digitals have an EF or EF-S mount for the lens. EF lenses are larger in diameter and have a different lens register than old FD lenses. They have a rotating pressure ring that the EF lenses don't, they don't support electronic apertures like the EF lenses do, and they are always manual focus. Basically they're not designed for the digitals like EF and EF-S lenses are, so any adaptor you use is going to have to do some hard work.
The main problem for the adaptor to overcome is the lens register. The adaptor has to make the lens register of the camera compatible with that of the old lens. The adaptor rings that Canon sold awhile back had built-in glass optics that made up for the register difference. It is complicated, but basically the adaptor has to have a lot of rather expensive elements in it to make the camera's focusing elements work.
The Canon adaptors basically made the lenses longer and slower because of all of this. They acted as teleconverters. Furthermore, only certain FD lenses can be used with the Canon adaptors, because some of them have different shapes and elements on them that physically do not fit into the adaptors.
These adaptors are complicated, and the ones first put out by Canon were often only bought by professionals who had invested a lot in their equipment. There are many on the market today that are made by other companies, but the quality and compatibility they will give you is questionable.
My bottom line- you can get an adaptor to use your old lenses, but 1. it can be a hassle and 2. you will be forced to use manual focus and stop-down metering, since that's what the lens is built for. The only place I've ever seen these adaptors is on Ebay, so if you can find one for cheap enough it may be worth it, but it's rather impractical and it can get complicated.
Edited to add: <a href="photography-on-the.net/foru... a great discussion</a> on this topic with some more helpful advice.
I've used my Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) in low light situations with great success. I usually use a manual setting though (with a tripod) to leave the shutter open longer. I hope this helps.
Andrew
The Canon SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is tiny, has 7 megapixels, plus image stabilization. Its only downside is that it takes a lithion ion battery, which may be a challenge to charge in some locales.
If double-A batteries are a must while you're traveling, I recommend the Canon A620 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) - also 7 megapixels, but without image stabilization.
Both are great cameras. Enjoy the trip, and take lots of pictures!
Good luck-
DParker
The battery that comes with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... G7</a> is the NB-2LH Lithium Ion Battery. This is compatible with various Canon cameras to include the Digital Rebel <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot S30/40/<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Cameras & <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... & <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor... Camcorders. I hope this helps.
Andrew
If they are machined to work with Canon EF lenses, then yes, you can use the teleconverters on a Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Andrew
Do you have the camera set to Automatic? If so it is likely having problems dealing with the various qualities of interior light... the white balance may be off. What kind of flash are you using? What settings do you have?
Point and shoots are actually better equipped to handle Auto mode than something like the Rebel. The DSLRs sometimes need direction because of the fact that they have so many options.
One Shot
AI Focus
AI Servo
use/purpose of each
AI Servo= camera is continuously focusing to 'track' moving subjects and keep them in focus so that when you push the shutter button the shot will be clear.
AI Focus= works just like One-Shot focus, unless the camera detects movement. If you're focusing and something changes, AI Focus makes the camera switch to AI Servo and refocus on the moving objects.
I'm confused, can you clarify which camera you have?
Rebels have plastic (polycarbonate) bodies, maybe not as robust innards, maybe a little less weather-resistant, and may lack a few minor features of their more expensive siblings. On the plus side, they are a little lighter. They are aimed at a serious photographer, but perhaps not a pro or someone who is really putting a lot of strain and use on their camera. But with a few minor exceptions, they all can use the same accessories, lenses, flashes, etc.
A lot of what is great about any of these Canon digital SLR cameras is that their digital insides are (incredibly) fast and capable, so Rebels use the same digital processors and tend to have the same or similar technical capability and specs, image quality, etc. as the more expensive EOS cameras. But watch the numbers, the following cameras have about the same electronics:
400D = 30D (both, the latest, and both <b>awesome</b> cameras :-)
350D = <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
300D = 10D
Hope this helps!
I noticed that your question hasn't been responded to yet. Are you still looking for an answer? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on www.DigitalCamera-HQ.com, so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
I own a Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and love what I have read about the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). I wish I waited to make my purchase to pick the later model up instead. I still love my XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) though.
Andrew
I would highly recommend the camera.
I have seen the Canon XTi / 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) come with a 18-55mm lens. I use the same lens in my Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is a great lens for most shots. I would also recommend picking up a good camera bag, a large memory card (2Gb and up), and maybe even a tripod or monopod for more stable shots in lower light. If you want to do more with your lens, there are plenty of EF lenses online that you can get on bid sites, or traditional online retailers. I'm looking to purchase Canon's 17-85mm IS lens to reduce the amount of changes I make between some of my lenses. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I liked the EOS350 D, but I don't understand most of the specs..
I'm assuming from your price range that you're looking into a DSLR, which is the fancier version of the basic digital camera- equivalent to an SLR film camera. Even though you know you want something more than a point and shoot I'd encourage you to read our <a href="digitaladvisor.com/guides/f... Guide</a>. That will get you thinking about what features and specs are most important to you.
The Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great camera in that it has auto and program features as well as manual, so while you're learning how to use it you can let the camera do some of the work for you. You can also turn it to manual mode and experiment a little.
Any camera you buy in the DSLR range (that is, fancier than a point and shoot) is going to have some features you don't understand at first. If you want to use all of them (which I totally encourage, if you pay for it it's great to be able to use it), you'll have to plan on spending plenty of time with the user's manual.
The Canon is pretty easy to figure out. For another good option, consider the Pentax K100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is known for being super user-friendly. It also offers both manual and auto modes.
Good luck and if you have further questions just ask!
Andrew
carol
<a href="photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... is a discussion of this very issue that will probably help you more than I can!
There are lots of cameras that are very user-friendly and great for amateur shooters or children. You might want to check out our <a href="digitaladvisor.com/guides/f... Guide</a>, which is great for figuring out what you're looking for in a camera.
If you need more help, here are a few things that will help us point you to the right camera:
-how old are your daughters?
-what will you use the pictures for (do you want to print them)?
-what features are important to you?
These prices might or might not include the basic lens on the Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). When you click on the link, the title of the product will either say BODY or LENS INCLUDED. Most of these are just for the body.
Andrew
The zoom for the Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is controlled on the lens itself because of the SLR functionality. The buttons on the back of the camera are used for index views and sorting of the pictures already taken.
Andrew
You can get the software for your Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) at the Canon site ( alpha03u.c-wss.com/inc/Appl... ).
Andrew
Not that these lenses are bad. Sigman actually makes good lenses from my experience. They just may not be as compatible as the original lens that was designed for the camera body. And I doubt that any third party manufacturer will point out any problems with their design when it comes to such things. On the other hand, Canon wants you to buy their lenses so they are going to warn against third party lenses.
But your experience at the moment is that you're receiving error messages.
Have you tried it in manual mode? Perhaps you'll get better results with the Sigma lens in that regard and will know what it's limitations are. You just may not be able to enjoy certain features of the 350D you may want to enjoy.
My rule of thumb is that it's probably best - in the automatic settings, to go with the lens that is designed for the Camera body. Namely, the Canon brand lenses.
I have to admit the lense was gifted to me to further my new found hobby - I have also managed to make contact with the manufacturers since my initial post and have established that it is not compatible which is a shame - still I can always put it towards my next Canon purchase!
Thank you very much for your help.
Regards
So my question is... (and i sorta have an answer from a friend who is a pro. photographer... but id like more input) Which should i go with? a point and shoot which is cheaper w/ less equipment to carry around? or a SLR, which feels more right, and has better image quality?
my friend says to go with the SLR... and he recommended the original Rebel or the Nikon D50 for starters (for cost reasons) but if money wasn't an issue he recommends the Rebel XT or the Nikon D70 or D80...
What are the pros and cons of those? and what would you recommend?
You are right, there are advantages and disadvantages to both types of cameras. I have a few that I use for different situations. For amusement parks, and just to have in my pocket, I have an old Canon Powershot S230 (comparible to the SD300 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )). Its a versatile little camera that you can get great pictures with on the fly. I also have a Canon PowerShot S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has more functionality than the smaller camera and a lot more optical zoom. You can even add lenses to it with an adapter. If you want the full versatility of a professional, you should move to a SLR. I use a [digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT[/url] with a few different lenses, and I love it. You can even buy lenses with image stabilization (IS designator), if you want to spend a few extra dollars. To get a full rundown of a reccomendation for your needs, you might try using Digital Camera HQ's Gift Guide ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) to see what you need for your photo taking.
Andrew
But if your eyes and mind work together in a trip, and all you want is to capture the scene as nice as it is, and you don't mind changing the lense and carrying a rather big thing with you, go for DSLR.
You can't take with a P&S what you can take with a DSLR
also are there any dSLRs with Image Stabilization or is this feature not so useful when it comes to dSLRs?
just wondering. thx!
If you like your friend's Canon EOS 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), then you might want to try a Canon Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The 20d ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 24.2 oz, the XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 17.1 oz, and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 18 oz.
Andrew
I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for a reply? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com"&... so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
I looked at the Canon EOS 350D and it has some great reviews, except for the lens comments. I assume if I went with that one, I should only purchase the body and then the lenses separate? But now I'm not sure which lens to purchase with it.
What would you recommend?
Regards,
Shannelle
Johannesburg, RSA
I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for a reply? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com"&... so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
Still need help? If so a few more details will make it easier to find you the right camera. Let me know what price range you're in and what kind of features you want or pictures you'd like to take. Thanks!
I suppose we'd go from $300 to maybe $600. We'd be wanting to take still shots immediately. After taking the senior pictures it would be given to our daughter who is entering college for general use. She has taken some photography classes in HS and may explore photography some more in college.
Jeff
Thanks for the details. Since your daughter knows some about photography and wants to learn more I'd definitely lean towards something with optional Manual controls (so she can play with the settings and learn how they work, but still put the camera on auto when she wants to). Your price range is pretty widespread, so I'll give you a few ideas from each area and you can check out the details on them:
Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- I love the Powershots because they take great photos in low light as well as in bright sun... very rich, pure colors. This one has auto and manual exposure options and a nice 4x zoom. All-around stable and dependable.
Kodak Easyshare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- another nice all-around camera; super user-friendly. Nice big zoom.
Most of those are in the same 300-ish price range. If you're looking to spend more than that, you can possibly look into a digital SLR. Those are the more advanced cameras that take multiple lenses and have more complicated instructions and functions. While they are great for photo students, it is also easier to take a bad picture with a DSLR than it is with a point and shoot. You really do need to learn how to use them, and that's a committment I'm not sure if your daughter is looking for or not... and it may also mean buying separate lenses since the ones that come with DSLRs aren't always the greatest. If that's a route you're interested in, the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is my favorite.
Hope that helps somewhat. Let me know if you need further help!
Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- a cool new Nikon oriented toward people learning photography, Canon Rebel 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- the cheaper cousin of the 30D Brenda recommended (a totally great camera by all accounts), the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- both have image stabilization built in so you can buy much less expensive lenses. But all of these are real SLR cameras: fast, high quality and good for real photography.
I will recomend you cameras from $400, and up to $700... despite you said $600. Why? Because SRL prices start at $500... so you don't have too many of them by that price. The average, is around $800 and $1500.
Recomended Point & Shoot:
* Canon Powershot G7
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ5
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1
* Ricoh Caplio R5
* Samsung NV7 OPS
* Samsung S850
This ones, are point & shoot cameras... but they are kind of small. You also have those with ultra versatile lenses, but much bigger. Some of the bests are:
* Samsung Pro815 (with 15x lenses, and a decent sensor)
* Panasonic FZ30 (you also have the FZ50, but you should know that there's almost any difference between 8 and 10 mp, than the $100 extra bucks) I would recomend THIS ONE!
* Kodak P880
* FujiFilm FinePix IS-1
SRL's I recomend for the price:
* Pentax K100 (or K110... the difference is the image stabilization)
* Nikon D40
* Canon Rebel XT EOS 350 D
To decide between these three, you should first know some things about them:
1º Pentax K100 was the surprise in the last photography event of 2006. It has even better picture quality than the Nikon D50, and it has shift sensor image stabilization.
2º The Nikon D40 is the last release of Nikon, and it's made to compete with the Pentax. The image quality is slightly better (let's say that the throne was for the Nikon D50, until the Pentax K100 was lounched to the market, and they just released the Nikon D40 that has some better end details, but there are almost no differences). BUT! this camera doesn't have a built in autofocus... so you have to buy every lens with it's own autofocus system, which makes them more expensive. Much more... if you want image stabilization... you will have to buy much more expensive lenses, when the K100 comes with it.
3º There's no difference between 6 and 8 mp. But much more... this is the most expensive of the three, and Canon is well known for bad quality kit lenses... so you will have to buy extra lenses. This one doesn't come with image stabilization neither.
My opinion: buy the K100 camera body, and then look for lenses around 120 and 200 bucks. Sigma is a very good brand for the price you pay them. Look for versatility, something like 18-90 mm, or 28-120... or even more. I've done that.
Hope this helps you to find the best camera for you and your daughter, and I expect you to post in the future what you bought, and how pleased you are.
Alan.
And for Canon I would recommend The Canon Rebel 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) it is a long time favorite and well loved. Both are at the lower end of the price scale and they are great quality.
I have used a 3.2 MegaPixel camera to produce 16"x20" photos as well as 20"x30" photos without loss to resolution. With a 9.2 MegaPixel setting on the Fujifilm S9000 Zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) you should have no problem. Make sure you set it for the largest format with the finest resolution to avoid any complications though.
Andrew
My main camera right now is a Canon Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is more than able to take wonderful blown up pictures. Anything over 6 MP should do the same.
Andrew
The ability to go to ISO 800 is nice on the Canon A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and it will help in low light settings as well as the faster movement of your kids and dancing friends. I would also reccomend looking at a Digital SLR camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) like the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the [digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D[/url]. These will offer plenty of flexibility and remain in your price range.
Andrew
I own a <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot S2 IS</a>, and love it. I did find it limited when I progressed in my photographic exploration though. I found myself wanting a larger optical zoom and more ability to change the manual settings more and have moved on to the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D</a>, which you can get used for under $500. For the types of shots you want to take, I think the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot S2 IS</a> or the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot S3 IS</a> would work for what you want to do though. The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... PowerShot A640</a> is still a smaller camera at only 4.3 x 2.6 x 1.9 inches and 8.6 ounces.
Andrew
Is the 3S IS that much better than the 2S IS? For the price of a 3S, I can buy the 2S IS, rechargeable batteries, a charger and then some.
The main differences between the two cameras are as follows:
S2 S3
MegaPixels: 5.0 6.0
Movie Mode fps: 30 60
Print/Share Button: no yes
LCD Screen: 1.8" 2"
ISO: 50-200 80-800
The Canon PowerShot S3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also offers more flexibility with the special effects for pictures, white balance settings, and shooting programs as well. Personally, I like the ability to customize your white balance and the larger range of ISO settings is particularly nice in low light settings. The Canon PowerShot S3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) offers that while the Canon PowerShot S2 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does not.
Does the 800 ISO really make a difference? I don't understand all the physics behind the explanations about the ISO and "noise", but I've read enough to know that people complain a lot about graininess once you move above ISO 200. Makes me wonder if people even use the higher ISOs at all. If so, does it make a difference that one camera lets you shoot at ISO 800 if you don't like the way the pictures turn out. Why pay for that then? It becomes just another "bell and whistle."
That brings up another question: should I pay for a camera that has a movie mode when that isn't something that interests me (or so I think). If that is not important, should I look for a camera that doesn't have a movie mode and put my money into one that uses a higher quality lens, etc. Is there such a digital camera?
You will see some graininess as you go to a "faster" speed ISO, but it isn't that bad from what I have seen. You can also reduce it with software like PaintShop Pro and PhotoShop. Thats the beauty of digital photos. I have used up to 1600 ISO and don't see a lot of issues.
As for the movie mode question, I don't use it at all anymore. If you want to move into more high quality lenses, you might want to invest in a digital SLR camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You can get them new for under $500 and used on bid sites for even lower.
Andrew
NOt being sure I would use the movie mode is one of the reasons I have balked at getting the 2IS or 3IS. Part of me thinks that my money would be better spent on making sure I have a high quality lens in the camera. My sister-in-law, on the other hand, dearly loves her 1IS and takes very good pictures with it so I think I would be getting a decent camera if I were to buy either the 2IS or the 3IS.
Thanks for the link. I will check it out.
That said, get the best camera with the best zoom lens you can afford, get a tripod, and practice a lot. If you can follow your subject and press the shutter while you're swivelling the camera, that will help a lot - the background will be blurry, but the subject will be more clear.
Good luck-
One thing that might tip you toward the Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is its AI Servo predictive focusing system, which calculates the focus distance of a moving subject while you're tracking it. Reviews are quite positive for it.
Good luck-
The popup flash on the 350D is amongst the best on-camera flashes available. Yet it is still significantly compromised by being small, and on the camera, just like all other on-camera flashes. The on camera flash is really good for fill flash (subject poorly lit with a light background), and it's only "ok" for full flash situations. Of course you could buy an external flash for the camera...
It might help to know what it is that's making the flash look terrible, but here are some tips:
* Reduce the flash exposure by about 1EV. This will help avoid burning out subjects that are close.
* Step away and zoom in on your subject. This will allow the flash to disperse a little and fill the scene better.
* Make sure the color balance is set for Auto or Flash (if colors are looking wrong)
* Get a piece of tissue paper and wrap it over the flash; this will soften it a little
* With a little piece of white cardboard, bounce the flash up and off the ceiling.
The last two are kind of "adaptations" from tricks used with regular external flashes. I'm not sure how well they actually work.
Thanks for asking :)
Generally speaking, the rule is to use full zoom and the minimum aperture. Assuming you're taking pictures of a person, set your subject up close to you with a lot of room in the background, with something that has no strong shapes or colors. Fill the frame with the subject and focus on the eyes -- you may want to use manual focus for this. If the shutter speed is less than 1/60th second, increase the ISO setting ... or use flash to get a higher shutter speed so that small movements of the camera don't blur the whole picture.
Here's why: the smaller the f-stop is, the less shorter the "depth of field" (the part that's in focus). So by using a small f-stop, you want to get just the face in focus and everything (especially the background out of focus. But you need to make sure the focus is on just the right place -- the eyes are what people look at, so that's where to so. So the further away the background is, the more it will be out of focus (the further away it will be from the part that's in focus). Having a nondescript background will help ensure that any shapes or colors there don't distract from the subject. The effect is increased with more telephoto, which is why a 55mm lens, which is only a little telephoto is not the greatest for this.
Hope this helps get you started.
Ciao!
For this reason I would now suggest the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is simplier but still very powerful, better for a beginner or young adult.
Another good camera to check out too is the Canon EOS 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All longtime favorite of the editor of DigitalCamera-HQ. But it is not the most cost effective at around $600. So I would still recommend the Nikon D50.
Ciao!
This is the lens I recommend: Canon 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ). 28mm is acceptable for wide angle shots, and 135mm is excellent for candid portraits. It's a zoom with image stabilization - for fast moving subjects, this is important to keep your hand shake from blurring the picture - and it's auto focus.
You can buy one for about $400. Click here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/o/digi... ) to go to Amazon and find that lens for purchase.
Good luck-
Therefore, my advice is to start practicing with a digital SLR camera. Some suggestions:
If you want to have a value-for-money overall system, make sure the camera body has shake reduction hardware built in (like Sony DSLR-A100). It allows you to purchase multiple lenses without shake reduction.
Of course you may choose a body without shake reduction (like Canon Digital Rebel series), but then you end up purchasing expensive lenses with shake reduction in each lens, or a system without shake reduction at all (the basic kit lens for the Rebel leaves you with a system without shake reduction which is not bad at short focal lengths, but attempts to shoot blur free at 400 mm - which requires a different lens anyway - without a tripod and without shake reduction may only be successfull in bright sunlight).
Just my $0.02
Brgds., Aad
In a DUST FREE place, get set with a Q-tip and a little but of rubbing alcohol (or even lens cleaning fluid) and very slightly dampen the Q-tip. Place the camera on a flat surface, back down, and remove the lens. On the bottom of the opening in the camera body, you'll see 8 or so shiny gold points. Gently clean them all with the Q-tip.
If this doesn't work, try each of these 1) resetting the camera (Menu > Clear Settings), 2) remove the backup battery and main battery for a few minutes, then replace them, 3) update the firmware for the camera which you can download from Canon here ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
If those fail, a local camera shop might take pity on you, or else you'll probably need to send it back to Canon for repair. Sigh.
The 350D probably would be a good choice for what you're trying to do, but I think you should also consider the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), as it's a little more "professional" and seems to be well-liked in dental circles.
You'll want these accessories:
Canon Macrolite MR-14EX Ring Flash
Canon EF 100mm F2.8 Macro USM
I'd also suggest that you take a look at more up to date models of the Digital Rebel, the 350D and 400D.
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... this helps!
Pentax has a couple of very good entry-level SLRs that should be right for you.
Pentax K100D (with lens) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Pentax K110D (with lens) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Body only models are available, and generally cost less, but then you just have to buy a lens for them anyway. Those models can be found through the product pages above, under 'Other Products to Compare.
The Canon 350D Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also a safe bet, as it is a longtime favorite of digital camera enthusiasts and will provide superior performance and control without being completely impossible to figure out.'
I have a Canon 10D, which has since been upgraded twice, now at the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This is an outstanding camera. I am not biased toward Canon or Nikon SLRs (though Canon's point-and-shoot cameras are consistently rated higher than Nikon's).
I always avail myself of the opportunity to try out other cameras, and in the last few weeks have tried the Nikon d80 with the kit lens ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon d200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). A friend has the very popular Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or the Canon XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Based on everything I can see, and have read, the Nikon d200 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 30D. The Nikon d80 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 350D or 400D. There are subtle differences, and in professional reviews these have occasionally favored Canon's offerings, especially since Canon has beat Nikon to market by a 6 to 12 month lead in the past, so Canon gets the jump on press. The main differences between the more expensive d200 and 30D is that they are more solid cameras; this means they are heavier, but also more durable and a bit more weather resistant. Many professionals use these cameras because of these features.
But they are also bigger and heavier than their less expensive counterparts, the d80 and the 400D. I believe the internal mechanics and electronics are the same for a given brand, although some fancier features may not be available through the menus on the lower-end offerings.
All are simply outstanding, superb cameras, in my humble opinion. There are good options for lenses from both Canon and Nikon, and other companies like Sigma, Tokina and others make compatible lenses. Sony and Pentax also both recently released the Alpha a100 and K100D respectively. While these cameras don't have a long track record, they do have image stabilization built in to the image sensor, meaning it is not necessary to buy IS lenses. If you are buying all new glass, this might be something to consider.
As for a lens, I would consider getting two; all options have a lens in the 18-55mm range, which is a reasonable range for indoor shooting. I had a 28-200 lens for my Canon -- it wasn't the best quality lens and was rather large, and also didn't have IS. I replaced it with a 70-300mm IS plus a 14-55mm (or something). The two together work very well for me. If you want to go with one lens, I am sure the 18-200 is fine, but I have to say, I really love the image stabilization and the extra 100mm tele. And 18mm seems like a wide angle, but there are thing you
can do at 14mm that 18mm is just not wide enough for. Two lenses is certainly more expensive, but you might want to see how the inexpensive 18-55 lens does for you and go for a nice telephoto zoom with image stabilization once your wallet recovers :-)
Tom
Hopefully I will get a camera for my birthday, and so I'd like it to be a really good one, regardless of the price.
the XT and the XTi are pretty similiar with the XTi having some nice new features. Larger screen, automatic dust removal, 9 point focus (faster in low light situations) to mention just a few.
Seriously I don't think you would regret getting an XTi as a birthday present.
Shooting sports means shooting fast. You need a camera with a great zoom, a good "fast" lens, image stabilization, and overall fast response.
Shooting sports is one of the biggest challenges of a camera and photographer. There's a lot of beautiful art photography out there, but every time I see a Sports Illustrated action shot, I am amazed. Of course these photographers use the best, best equipment out there, and it's expensive. But even with the right gear, shooting sports well is all about capturing the "defining moment",and to do that well requires practice and mastery of both the technical and artistic elements. So if this is a serious endeavor, it's a hard one to start with.
For horse shows and fox hunting, there's action as well as some more staged shots at the beginning and end, I would suppose. You have one advantage in that both are predictable, so you can set up a shot. For any sports, you'll want a long lens (telephoto zoom).
I would strongly consider the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Canon Rebel 350D XT</a>, body only, and then find an inexpensive zoom lens (perhaps from Sigma or Tokina) that fits the Canon AE mount. The Rebel is a serious camera, and if you are going to spend $800 then this is a good place to start. Other similar options include the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Nikon D50</a>. Both are SLR cameras that are fast, and will expand as your budget does.
There are some other non-SLR options that make be less expensive. Look for a long lens (8x - 12x) with image stabilization, and a camera people describe as "fast".
I would love to have one lens do it all, but that may not be possible. I also take everyday photos of the children, and the family. I pretty much am the family photographer.
If one lens won't do it, would you please suggest what might be a good everyday lens, one for family shots,holidays, just playing around the house, etc. Then one for the sports shots---hopefully I can use the same lens for outdoor baseball and indoor dance, as well as the horse shows. If not, please advise.
Maybe I should just start with the kit lens (????) and work up. I just don't know what to do. I don't know much about cameras,just mainly point and shoot, using the different modes,(I have been using a Canon G2).
PLEASE ADVISE---THANKS
Mitziewing
Now that that's out of the way, I'm a junior Mass Communications major, and am starting up a media company (dvds, posters, flyers,web pages, special events, sports photography, etc.) I do a lot of work with photoshop, and am looking to purchase a digital camera that can handle all of my needs. I've purchased my camcorder already, and just need a digi cam to round everything out.. Im going to need clear, (not "noisy") low light pix during those club parties and night games, and the ability to stretch those pix into poster size prints.. Would a Canon Rebel XT work? If at all possible, a list of accessories (tripod, type of flash, etc.) would help me out greatly.. But I realy need to know a price range and maybe a couple of choice cameras to look into purchasing.. Thanks everybody
Twill757 --
We think the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Rebel XT 350D rocks</a>, and that seems to be the general opinion of many users. I think the camera meets all of your specs; it has the same processing engine as Canon's major hit <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target=_blank">Canon EOS 20D</a> (now replaced with the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Canon 30D</a>). The difference between the Rebel and the 20D/30D is the latter have a metal body, and there are some firmware features that are turned off in the Rebel. It's a great choice.
There are a number of other <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Digital SLRs</a> you could consider like the Nikon D50 and the new Pentax K100D in the same price range. For my money, I would go with the Canon, but it's not my money :-)
I have the Canon 10D, which was amongst the first real SLRs, and I love it. My only minor complaints are all resolved in the 350D or 30D.
The Rebel has very low noise, even at very high ISO of 800, and can go higher. You can get one with a lens, but you might determine if the 18-55 lens that comes in the kit is the right one for you. I would strongly suggest getting a longer lens, like one if the 70-200 or 70-300 lenses, and given low-light shooting needs, image stabilization is a must. Sigma makes pretty good lenses that fit standard lens mounts of Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc. Either way, the lens is probably more dough than the camera itself, though.
As for accessories, get the external flash -- either the Canon SpeedLight 400EX series or the 500EX series are great. They are much more powerful than the built-in pop-up flash, and can swivel and tilt, which is key for getting more natural shots at night. If you are doing any studio work or field setups, get a good tripod. It's amazing how important this is for super-sharp shots; no matter how stable you hands are, especially in low-light situations, sharp shots are the difference between pros and amateurs. Well, that and some other things like good composition :-)
I would get an extra battery, and also instead of going for one big CF memory card, go for a few 256 or 512MB cards. You will probably be shooting in RAW mode for serious shots, and they take a lot of space.
PhotoShop is great if you know how to use it and can afford it -- it's what you need for professionally finished shots. Two other software items to consider: <a href="phaseone.com/" target=_blank">CaptureOne LE</a> is a great tool for managing work flow, and <a href="picasa.google.com/download/... target=_blank">Picasa</a> is a great, fast lightweight tool for doing quick proofs, and organizing your pictures.
Hope this helps you get started!
Tom
Canon Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D Reviews
Canon Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 4.0 out of 5
Dispite having no sensor cleaning abilities, and a small review screen, the 350d is an great camera for amature photographers, able to receive a huge range of lenses. the 350d is user freindly, fast on the draw and has great range of adjustablity. I really like my 350d, although it may be a little dated as far as looks of the actual camera go.
Pros:
Fast action
Clear photos with the kit lens
User freindly
Cons:
Small screen
No cleaning sensor ability
- 3.0 out of 5
I have had to fight with my camera to get things in focus. I have sent it back to Canon, they repair it and it works for around 2mths then it's out again. When this camera is working it is a great camera, crisp pics, easy to use. Not sure I would suggest anyone to purchase.
- 4.0 out of 5
It great camera I have had it for 4 years. I love these camera i use
it for all type so photos. With these camera i use 5 other camera
lens. 1.Standard lens, 2. telephoto lens 50-300, 3 fish eye lens, 4
macro lens, 5, fix 50mm. I also have batter pack.
- 5.0 out of 5
I've never owned a DSLR camera before...and I got a great deal at OFFICE DEPOT for $250. I can not believe the quality of photos that came out and the focus is absolutely gorgeous. i can post up pictures later.
- 5.0 out of 5
The first time I used this camera was on a family vacation to Virginia. I left my film camera behind because I was so comfortable with this product. The pictures were amazing! The clarity of the images were impeccable. I could not tell the differance between film and digital pictures. It took a long time to decide on a digital camera and this a decision I won't regret.
The camera is light weight and user friendly. It is compatable from a novice to a professional. The options that come with the camera are plentiful and versitile. It is capable of printing directly from your computer or printer. I would highly reccomend this product to any person interested in high quality photography.
- 5.0 out of 5
350D is excellent camera I have ever use.very easy to carry ,superb noise less image quality. I am always using ISO 400 for fast shutter speed for small aperture for nature closeups of insects.no battery charge problem with battery grip I am using 6 NiMh cells and grip is very comfortable when u shoot vertical compostions.low weight small body ,I am always with her in my all tours I like 350d more than my 30d.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have had my digital rebel xt for around 18 months now and absolutly love it the pictures are always very crisp whatever I shoot whether it is portraits, fireworks, pets, friends and family always superior photos to anything I have seen from the Nikon d80 or d40 series of cameras.
I especially love my 28-135 is usm lens if you can get your hands on one do it you won't be disappoionted.
- 5.0 out of 5
Replaced my EOS Elan IIe with the camera body. Very, very nice to be able to buy a high quality camera like this and salvage your investment in the attachments from the film SLR. I couldn't be happier.
- 5.0 out of 5
Great camera for the price. Has worked flawlessly for me. No focus problems. Only use Canon lenses. 8 MP seems to be more than needed for most shooting. Only shoot in RAW format. Use Adobe's Digital Negative software to convert all of Canon's CR2 files. Archive both CR2 and DNG files. Have enjoyed shooting with the DSLR after years of using M Leicas.
- 3.0 out of 5
Camera had to go back to the manufacturers. After many weeks They repaired it. But i am still not really happy. It's better but.... still not brillant
- 5.0 out of 5
AMAZING camera, 3fps (in good light) and its SO easy to use. im a beginer on the digital Camera scene but this camera makes me want to get right in there and learn as FAST as i can
- 4.0 out of 5
I went from point and shoot to slr digital. I do love the quality of the photos I get from this camera. I do have to purchase a flash that is higher on the camera so I don't get so much glare. I am going to be taking a class on line to learn how to use this camera so I can get the Best tout of it because I know this camera is capable of far more then what I do with it and the instruction book is not that detailed and doesn't give enough options for the settings.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is without question the best camera I have ever owned, nothing negative to say about this awesome camera and if you are looking for a 1st class digital SLR that rivals cameras that cost almost twice as much ? Look no further, this is it !!!
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my first DSLR camera . i like it alot .
- 5.0 out of 5
It's the best DSLR for this price range and very good for part time photographers. Body is better than any other brand of this range.
It makes your shooting simple and shutter response is excellent.
- 4.0 out of 5
Just got this camera and am generally very pleased. But I have a Windows 98 operating system on my computer, and the camera must have Windows 98SE in order to download photos. Was going to buy a new computer anyway, but would be sol if I wasn't. Exchanged some emails with Canon tech staff but they haven't even bothered to respond since I stated I had Windows 98...
- 5.0 out of 5
I went from the 35mm Rebel to this digital camera. This camera made it easy to switch from 35mm to digital. Functions are fairly the same yet the quality is so much better. I would recommend this camera to anyone who is a beginner or switching from 35mm to digital.
- 4.0 out of 5
I previously owned an Olympus 5060wz. That's a great camera too. It turns out that the difference between 5mp and 8mp is not really that big. The smaller sensor of the 5060 means that more is in focus than on a digital SLR at the same f-stop. But that also has disadvantages, eg. sometimes on a macro photo or a portrait you want a shallow depth of field so the background is blurred - that's more difficult to achieve with a non-SLR.
The advantage of 8mp over 5 mp is that cropping gives better results. Sometimes I take a photo, then realise that by cropping it has more impact. Better to crop an 8mp photo to 5mp than a 5mp to 3mp.
For those people having focusing problems... I think it's down to the 7 point AF. Try selecting the central focus point and just using that. The camera may be focusing on something else. I like to choose what to focus on rather than leaving it to the machinery.
The 350D takes great pictures. You only have to look at some of the photo blogs which use the 350D and you'll be convinced.
Why did I mark it down? The 18-55 lens is soft although it's still capable of great results. The Tamron 55-200 Di II is a good buy as long as you use it at f5.6+ (total bargain at ����80). My opinion is that to get the best from the 350D you need to fork out extra for a higher grade lens than the 18-55. Don't get me wrong, you won't be disappointed, but all the best photo's I've seen use the 17-40 Canon or the 10-20 Sigma. These add to the cost (not just by a few ����'s either). The same go for Nikon lenses too. The 18-70 Nikon is good but the pro lenses are a whole other level.
The upside of this is that if you want even better pictures you don't throw away the camera, you add a better lens. Also, if you do upgrade the body, the lenses can be used on the new body.
Noise levels are nice and low. I shoot at rugby matches at ISO1600. There is noise, but it's less than I would get at ISO400 on most other cameras. That means I can get shots I wouldn't normally be able to attempt. A good shot with a bit of noise is better than none at all.
Given the choice to "re-choose" I would go with the Canon again.
- 4.0 out of 5
While I love this camera for sports action shots during the daylight hours, night shots are a different story. Even at the best settings and with the Canon Ultrasonic fast 2.8 lens the pictures still come out fuzzy. I called Canon Tech Support to verify my settings were optimized for night times action shots under the lights and I didn't have very many keepers, pictures have alot of noise and stop action doesn't compare to the daylight shots. You'll be disappointed with action shots at night with this camera. Other than that disappointment, I do like this camera in the daylight hours.
- 5.0 out of 5
Speechless...I have taken my first shot and the result was so good that i have to buy a frame to display it on my wall.
- 3.0 out of 5
Using automatic focussing gives consistant BAD (unsharp) photos. It extremely annoying. Only with manual focus am i able to get sharp photos.
Be warned!!!
- 2.0 out of 5
I recently moved up from a sony cybershot DSC F717 to a digital Rebel XT - what a huge mistake. The auto focus is absolutely terrible in any other than bright sunlight - but even in bright sunlight the photos just aren't crisp. I exchanged for another unit and it takes the same fuzzy shots. Doesn't matter if I manual focus, use the automatic AF point selection or select AF point myself, the camera just can't focus. I don't know what people are talking about with 'crisp' or 'beautiful' pics. Low light shooting with a flash produces washed out pics with horrible color. There are a few good features, but the two that matter most to me - image quality and accurate color couldn't be worse. I want to pull my hair out. Best Buy wants to send the camera out to their repair center - have fun.
- 5.0 out of 5
This product revitalised my love of photograhpy. A superb camera and I have had nothing but success.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have used a variety of SLR film cameras over the years and I was cautious about changing to a DSLR with a plastic body and small dimension sensor.
I bought just the body because I have a number of Canon lenses which I wanted to continue to use with the new camera and I had read that the standard lens was poor in resolution.
I am very happy to have moved to digital imaging; I have never experienced such an improvement in my own photographic skill; largely because of the ability to quickly capitalise on mistakes. Any experimental shots which I had taken with a film camera would be completely forgotten, as would their settings by the time the film was processed. The points made by previous reviewers here are, in my experience, valid. My reservations about the plastic body are unfounded in use and the old lenses are producing image quality (sharpness and colour rendition) un-experienced in their previous life on a film body. Exposure accuracy is very good, much more accurate than the EOS 30 film camera and the file transfer and catalogue software is excellent. I am still dubious about black and white imaging using a digital sensor: I think there is little to better the hues from silver prints, but this is not a fault of the 350D, it relates to the poor inks and dyes available in printers. My Contax G out performs the 350D in this department simply because of the medium used for rendition of the prints.
- 5.0 out of 5
i have had 4 35mm film cameras over15yr's(2 pentax & 2 nikons) i too was fule of trepidation, but i am so happy with the rebelxt D!!! it takes great pix consistantly, and if i'm on my game, i get some realy nice photographs!!! I bought it because of the price diff' Aprox' 1/3rd the price of the compatition. i got the 18-55 lens with it and am still learning new stuff with it every time i shoot. i got some pix published in the local paper not long ago and was amazed with the clarity and sharpness for the size and type of paper! I'm very happy!!!! waaaaay haaaappy!!! hands down the best money i ever spent on a camera...EVER!!!!!!
thanks canon, the xt has opened so many doors for me, and it has renewed my passion for photography.The cost savings alone in developing fees have almost payed for the camera already!!! That alone should get the fence sitters off there duffs!!! My opp'...GO!!!GO NOW!!!!! and get one of these little beauties!!! WHY ARE YOU STILL READING? DIDN'T YOU HEAR ME? GO, I TELL YOU!!!! GO, GO NOW!!!!
- 5.0 out of 5
I've had the XT for almost 6 months now (this is my first DSLR)and am very pleased with its performance. First, the size of the camera is great. Its lightweight too, unless you have a large lens.(I use a Tamron AF 28-300mm... lens, i recommend this lens!) Its size is also good for traveling with. I have read the complants from other reviews about it being too small and hard to hold but if it is for you, try buying the battery grip. It gives you more of a better grip. I have large hands but i've had no problems with holding the XT with or without the grip.
The picture quality of this camera surprised me when I went out on a small internship with my local news photographer. I got to use my Canon and the news's Nikon D2Hs. After the shoot I compared the pictures I took. The D2Hs's color quality was dull other than the XT's color, which had great clarity. After finding out that my camera performed better than the Nikon D2Hs, it made me feel proud to have bought the Rebel XT. I look forward to using this camera when i go to college next month.
This was a great buy for me and I got it at an afordable price. Great camera!!!
- 5.0 out of 5
I've always been a big Canon fan. My 35mm was a Canon and all our video equipment has been Canon but when I wanted a digital SLR I bought a Nikon D70. Then a friend bought the 350D/Rebel XT and I was green with envy. So I bought one too - and it beats the D70 in every department. The Canon is lighter, smaller and much faster. The 350D is excellent value... Don't buy the 28mm-55mm lens with it - it is not a good lens. I bought a Sigma 18mm-200mm to replace it. Buy the XT body and another Canon, Sigma or other higher-quality lens. For convenience, you can't beat the PictBridge printing option directly from the camera - even my uber-luddite mother-in-law could figure out how to print her pictures. I found that the P (program) mode is a must for most pro-quality images as the newer features (from the 300D) are mostly only available in that mode. The 350D defaults to a pretty soft image and increasing the sharpness is a good plan. Overall, this is a camera that has the features and quality of a $1200 camera, only at half the price. It'll take a bit of getting used to if you like the solid (but heavy) feel of the Nikons (it feels a bit cheaper with it's plastic body) but once you get over that, you'll agree that you have bought the best value digital SLR on the market.
Also BIG kudos to Canon: all my video camera batteries, chargers and old 35mm lenses work with the XT - which has saved me about $1000 in extra purchases. If you own other Canon products, don't even think about another brand....
- 3.0 out of 5
Now I don't have my XT yet it is coming in 2 days. So I really don't no how the camera fits into my hand but. For all thows people who have trouble fitting the xt in there hand, there is a simple way to fix it. Get the battery grip that goes on the bottom of the camera. It will add about a half of inch on to the grip.
- 5.0 out of 5
I am just new user to canon digital SLR camera.I have been using nikon D 100 and Fuji S2 pro.I find it very user friendly accept as other review members have told .It is having very small grip.Unless yoiu buy separte one.As far as white balnce preset i found custom more accurate and giving me result close to analog.After using this canon body I stopped using analog cameras like Nikon F100.I am using with Metz 60 ct4 and dadicated TTL adapter for Flash photography.
- 5.0 out of 5
I confess that I am challanged when it comes to cameras, but this is really a nice supprise. My first SLR and I love it. It takes great photo's with very little practice. I take mostly outdoor and sports photo's, and was instantly in love with it. I may never fully understand the camera, nor be able to use it to its full potential, but I know it will never let me down, and has expanded my photo taking ability to a much greater level than I have ever expected to be.,,,, Nice shot!!
- 5.0 out of 5
I just got mine and have shot 2 family groups, an engagement session and a wedding with it... it is awesome... the quality if superb and the ease of use is great... i was nervous leaving my film behind... but well worth it.
- 4.0 out of 5
The image clarity is amazing, it's lightning fast, and it has a wide variety of useful settings. Lenses like the 70-300mm and 28-135 IS complement it well.
Get it, you won't be disappointed.
- 5.0 out of 5
Go ahead and buy this camera, unless you want to spend twice the money... I have had six Canon 35mm SLRs and this is my fifth digital camera. My second Canon Digital (first was a S1 IS). Best of both worlds. SLR versatility with the digital benefits. Adapter for the lenses from my AE1 Program made it all the sweeter.
- 1.0 out of 5
Good camera when it works. Be prepared for serious expenditures on repairs when the camera fails. Canon neither backs it's products or warranties.
- 5.0 out of 5
I am extremely happy with the Digital Rebel, unfortunately, I dropped it yesterday. It can be fixed, but it will most likely cost as much as the Digital Rebel XT body. The lens appears to be OK and I had the 18mm - 55mm lens at home. The lens a Quantaray 28 - 200 was attached, but it fell in such a way that it looks OK. Anyhow, I have taken plenty of great pictures and I also have an HP Photosmart 8750 (large format) printer that does a superior output from those photos taken with the EOS Digital Rebel. The price of the new unit Rebel XT is just right with the $100 Canon Rebate. You can't go wrong.
- 2.0 out of 5
I haven't tried other focus modes, but I have been having a LOT of problems with autofocus. It appears it's only select models that have the problem, and unfortunately I got one of them. Never had a problem with my film Rebel, or older digital Rebel, but a large percentage of images are out of focus. My wife refuses to use the camera because focus is so consistently off, and she finds it annoying. Whenever I give it to someone to "just take a snapshot" of the family it's out of focus.
Just to clarify, the problem I'm experiencing is not that it doesn't focus correctly for the zone's selected, but that it's horrible at figuring out which zones *should* be in focus.
I get good results if I set it to only use the center focal point, but that's a bit of a pain, and impossible to explain to my wife, etc.
- 1.0 out of 5
This was my first Digital SLR. I bought this camera with a tamron lens and the pics are terrible!
No matter what settings I use, whether basic or creative, the pictures are at best, very soft!
And need a lot of sharpening in photoshop USM
I have an old Kodak point and shoot, and the pictures it produces are far, far superior.
It makes me ask, what is the point or advantages of having an SLR?
I am returning the 350 as it has been a total waste of my time and money. The only thing it has given me is frustration.
This camera has strongly discouraged me from ever using a digital SLR again.
- 5.0 out of 5
this camera is amazing some cameras only have some featues but this has it all!
- 5.0 out of 5
I have over the years (as police forensics officer) used film cameras, 4 x 5, 2 1/4 sq, and 35mm. and processed all in my own blk and white lab.
After retirement and having my time with video, I decided to get a digital camera for vacation & family times, I owned an Olympus 2040 and then an Olympus 5060, and now my Canon.
canon was a no brainer for me, having used so many canon products over the years, but this XT takes the cake, it's simple to use with great results. one can ourchase put it on P, get excellent shots when you need the shots, while you experiment for fun with other settings and features.
I did not buy the lens kit with it, but opted instead for the body, battery holder and an 18/200 sigma zoom. I will be adding lens later on, likely a prime macro lens, and a long prime telephoto.
highly recommend this camera to starters and old timers alike.
- 5.0 out of 5
Amazing picture quality at 50% of the cost of the new 30D. Thought about waiting and getting the 30D but took the money saved and bought a 24-105mm "L"lens. Great move. Awesome pictures. The body is a little too small but I mount the camera on either a monopod or tripod so it really isn't noticable while shooting. The small size is an advanatage when traveling and hiking.
I'm very happy that I got the Rebel XT with the "L" lens, rather than waiting for the 30D. Beach Camera is the place to buy it imho.
- 4.0 out of 5
It takes very good high quality pics. I wonder why is it better than the Canon Powershot S21S?
- 3.0 out of 5
Walked into my managers office and we'd been given three for the department. Borrowed one to use on jobs around central London. Standard lens is mediocre and I'd say even my Fuji s5000 is better. However we have extra zooms and Canon flash too. Lots of flexibility and much better for action photography. More versatile than even a big zoom compact. Buy a different standard lens. I'm going for the Minolta 5D myself.
- 5.0 out of 5
After getting rid of my EOS 1 HS 5 years ago and going with Compact Digital I was tempted back to SLR's in the form of Digital.
What an absolute dream camera to use and get images with, simple Canon user settings and menu, a great standard lens despite the experts giving it a hard time and absolutely beautifully exposed and focused pictures.
Great software for mac is an added extra bonus with the Raw conversion program included in the kit.
They are not cheap but after using my 350D for a couple of days the cost is totally forgotten.
My interest in photography has been instantly rejuvenated by this dream camera.
Just go buy one now..........it will be a revelation!
- 5.0 out of 5
I had arranged a trip to Namibia since the summer and I was looking for a Digital SLR. 4months of investigation and bechmarking reduced the choice to Nikon D70 and Canon 350D. As you can immagine I choose the Canon although beening a longti,e Nikon owner I wasn't sure i did the right choice as it was too close to call. Three main reason for choice came down to contruction/weight, price/performance, brand ... I decided Canon is ahead of Nikon on digital. My travel companion bought instead the Nikon and off we went.
The 350D has won by miles every time there where hard light conditions or we had to shoot wildlife. I don't consider myself a profesional but I do take some real quality pictures and I don't regret moving to digital. Added plus for all the divers out there is that it perform great also underwater (with the underwater case) ... haven't tried the Nikon. Overall I just wished I bought it earlier. Should you aim for wildlife pls take at least 75-300mm lens and not the 58-200mm you find as extra lens in most offers.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have had so many friends ask me about my camera and my pictures, that I decided to create a site called (...) that you might find helpful in making your decision and learning about the basics of digital SLR photography. It's specifically for owners of the Canon EOS digital SLRs. Check it out for useful tips and research that will help you get started on this rewarding journey of digital photography! Either way you won't regret your purchase. It would make an incredible gift, not only for Christmas or a birthday, but for life. It sure did change mine.
- 5.0 out of 5
I am a professional photographer, shooting nature/wilderness landscapes for sale in my gallery. I shoot mostly with medium and large format film but I did keep a Canon Elan 7 around for occasional 35mm use. A friend wanted to puchase my Elan 7 and I replaced it with the Rebel XT.
Initially I considered the 20D but it really was too heavy to carry along with a couple of medium format films systems on an extended backpack or hike. I have no regrets about the XT. The pictures, within the limitations of the sensor size, are superb. 13x19 prints look completely photographic and I now sell XT images (albeit not as large) in my gallery right along side those shot with my film systems. Don't go with the standard kit lens..it's of marginal quality in terms of contrast and sharpness and really not good for anything beyond a 5x7 or perhaps an 8x10 image.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my first SLR and i have been very impressed. If you're an SLR armature (like i was) i would recommend buying the Digital Rebel by Charlotte Lowrie. It's a 250 page full colour book devoted to the digital rebel and the digital rebel XT. For those with focusing issues or operational complaints i don't think you're using it right because i've printed some sweet 8 by 10 photos with crystal clarity. If you buy the camera, read the book, take some notes, and do a lot of playing i don't see how you can be disappointed with the results.
- 5.0 out of 5
There is clearly a mixed view on this camera but the majority of people give it a thumbs up, and so do I !!!
I would like to say the people who are complaining are clearly expecting too much or have not learned how to use this camera, as other people have already said. If you are switching from a point and click compact to an SLR it can be a bit frustrating learning how to use a camera like this - but stick with it the rewards will be clear to see!
Once you get to know the camera it comes alive and you can get the results your after. Most of my images have come out brilliantly, if they haven't it is usually my fault - there is a lot to remember settings wise (make yourself a checklist).
Obviously with all digital work you have to expect to do some post processing in photoshop to achieve exactly what your after. Digital photography does not end after you pressed the shutter of any camera, but I guess you know that!
I would recommend this camera to anyone after a introductory digital SLR, it inspires me when I have it in my hand and I trust it completely. I will be by my side for many years to come!!
Happy shooting people!
- 5.0 out of 5
This is a great camera! Took it out for 1st time today in early morning and late afternoon. It performed much better than I had hoped for even with the kit lens. Can't necessarily tell degree of focus in the display. Looked not so good but when got home and looked at 100% size most pictures were sharp. Quality not an issue. Camera is of good quality, it is just light...which is good right. Feels good in hands, I like the slightly rough surface texture. Menu display was ok in bright late afternoon light (turned my back to the sun), but I can see where there may be problems in very bright light, as many reviewers have stated.
- 2.0 out of 5
I bought this camera mainly because I wanted 8 Megs of resolution rather than the 5 Megs provided by my Nikon 5700.
I am very disappointed with the sharpness of the Rebel XTs pictures compared to the Nikons 5700. I bought the Camera body only as I have three Canon EF lenses that produced very sharp pictures on my film camera.
Is Canon producing a firmware patch to address the XTs soft focus ?
- 5.0 out of 5
I have owned my 350d for about 6 months now and I have never thought of going out without it. This little baby packs alot of punch and the pictures are absolutely lovely. I'm now saving up for an L and will be getting my EX flash first. After that, I'll be all over trigger happy with my camera. It's a sweet deal, this camera. Unless you're the type who does not read manuals or have never handled a dlsr/slr before and complain about it being useless - I'd suggest you go back to the compacts. I say this because I have seen travelling photojournalists using the 300d and 350d - and i have no doubts that if it work for pros, it works well enough for alot of other things. Cheers and happy shooting to all proud owners of the 350d/XT!
- 5.0 out of 5
I had the Digital rebel but ended up never using it because it was so heavy and bulky. The XT is so lightweight that I carry it everywhere and use it all the time. I gave the Rebel to my teenage son who does not mind the heavy weight. Also, the pictures are much quicker, and better quality than the Rebel. However, you do need to study this camera, and as others have noted read up on it. I broke the pins on the Rebel...apparently, Canon does not do a good job in this area and you have to be very careful when you insert your cards, hence you should always pay for a warranty. But I highly recomomend the xt for lightness of weight, and beauty of pictures.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera is great. It offers SOO much more than the older Digital Rebel. I love it. Great quality photos, and with the included software you cant go wrong. You can use it as your photoshoot camera, and sync directly with your laptop, and the sweet thing, it comes with everything you need to do it. Not to mention it does panoramic shots like never before, with photo stitch and more programs, that are all included in the Manufacturers Box.
- 2.0 out of 5
I have a Canon D60 and 10D which produce razor sharp photos, so there is nothing wrong with my lenses. I have yet to get a sharp photo from the XT.All are "soft" focus, I sent it back to Canon for fear of getting another bad one from a dealer. I sure hope they get it right so I can sell my other SLRs
- 5.0 out of 5
The Rebel XT is not a point and shoot camera, you must have some idea how to shoot and post process the images after you are done (which is the same with all DSLR cameras). With that in mind this is a great camera for the cost.
- 5.0 out of 5
Excllent camera. 1.6 multi turns the cheap (as chips) 50mm f1.8ii into a fantastic portrait lens. recently Bought the tamron 17-35mm (£200 used) which together with the 350D is fantastic. Picture quaity is top notch, in my experiance indistguishable from the 20D.
Complaints:
1- ergonomics, too small, but the grip sorted that and gave a AA battery alternative for travel. Also small size is much better for unobtrusive photography. People tend to get scared when someone rolls up pointing a huge ass camera in their face. The 350D is too small, but it has advantages.
2- view finder is rubbish, but adaquate, just don't look through a EOS1.
3- no ISO in the view finder.
For those with focusing probs, check what focusing your using, I think mine was defaulted on AI servo or the other one that continuously focuses. This does weird things, I normally use One shot. You can focus, recompose (with shutter button half dpressed obviously) and the focus won't change. Do this on the other focus schemes and its any ones guess what it'll decide to do.
Also for the person who complained about the pictures looking different on the camera screen and when downloaded, one word, calibration. (ok some more) You have to calibrate everything camera to monitor, monitor to printer, and scanner to monitor or the images will always look different. This calibration can be expensive, but do a google search for alternative or try adaobe photo gamma in Photoshop.
It is a good camera, but you need to LEARN to use it. It will not take its best pictures out of the box as a point and click will. You need to learn to think about your photography, use Av or Tv and think about composition, apeture, shutter speed, exposure compensation and ISO and have fun. (sorry for those I've upset here, I obviously wasn't talking about you ;-) )
- 5.0 out of 5
After reading some of the poor reviews here I was kind of shocked to see the incompetence of some people who base their review on a few pics quickly taken at the store when they have no clue what they are doing.
I have been using the XT for 2 months now and before that I was using the Rebel 300d, and this is a fine camera.
The image quality is on par with the 20d which we also own and the speed of operation is fast! I have absolutely no problem with the auto focus and I need a fast auto-focus for my bird photography. I can say that the XT auto-focus is fast and precise and I push its limits beyond what the camera is meant to do because I use a 400mm F5.6 L lens with a 1.4x teleconverter and that'S a total minimum aperture of F8, yet the camera still auto-focus fine.
I work in the field in harsh conditions and I am glad that the XT is light and small. That takes a lot of the fatigue off at the end of the day shooting in the field. The camera construction is excellent even if it is made of plastic, as the camera has an internal metal chassis. I use big heavy lenses on it and everything work very well and feel solid.
the menu shortcuts for changing the ISO, white balance etc do not disturb me as it is just a matter of getting used to this setup. I got used to it very quickly.
High ISO photos are of good quality and on par with the 20d, although the 20d might be a tad better at ISO 1600, but not by a lot.
when I go in the field for my photos, I have the choice to take along the 20d or the XT since we have both. I pick up the XT because the image quality is the same, the speed is more than fast enough and the weight and size is more convenient.
I really like that little camera and I have no issue with it what so ever, it works very well.
- 5.0 out of 5
I am only a student and not a professional photographer. I've read many reviews of many cameras rather carefully before judging anything. Seriously I think those who rated this camera really low has probably done something wrong or something that was warned NOT to do. e.g. the cf problems, bad pictures, etc.
Factory needs some quality control:
did you or your daughter insert the cf in a wrong way? the manual tells you that if you inserted the cf wrongly, it may cause damage to the pins or something.
Lousy Camera! Don't Buy!!!:
Seriously, IMHO, a compact camera outperforming an SLR? I don't think so. Are you using a wrong mode or something that is not full auto (a.k.a. point and shoot)?
PLEASE DON'T BUY ANY CANON PRODUCTS ANYMORE!!!!! << tell this to professional photographers around the world ...
lousy flash in low lighting, poor detail:
I really don't agree with this... my few early manual capturings were quite disastrous. After a few months I started to control stuff better. Have you tried reading about digital photography?
Don't buy a Canon 350D I did and what a BIG mistake:
hmm, even the 350D cannot focus that well in low light, I find the manual focusing rather satisfying...
Poor body construction:
The price of the 350D compared to other D-SLRs completely tells that it's a budget D-SLR camera. Why are you trying to get the same things as a much more expensive camera(e.g. the 20D)? If you've paid the same price for a lousier body, I'll have nothing to say ...
- 5.0 out of 5
this camera is one of the best quality/price camera that i bought. Picture are awesome when you have good knowledge of photography. i bought a 70-300 sigma lense to go with that and i don't regret my buy.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have owned a Canon EOS 650 since 1989. I have several lenses and was pleased to get an XT that could use my existing lenses. I have a Sony DSC-S75 3.3 mp point and shoot that I bought 3 years ago for $400, so the $900 for the XT was a good value for me. You need to set this camera up USING THE MANUAL! If you follow directions you will be taking great photos that can be printed up to 13 x 19 inches
- 4.0 out of 5
I have been shooting all day. Focus has been no problem what-so-ever. Nails those images. Color is saturated and pops! My friend was awed. He thought the images looked three dimentional. I would like to see a camera where the exposure building up in a long time exposure was visible in the LCD. Does anyone know of a camera (dSLR) with an LCD that stays live over the time of exposure?
- 5.0 out of 5
IMAGE QUALITY is my priority than other aspect.
I`ve owned pocket camera Sony DSC-P92, advanced camera Panasonic Lumix FZ-20 with 36-432 mm tele, and now Canon 350D (a.k.a Canon Digital Rebel XT). First Sony was damaged on it`s "CCD" sensor so the "LCD" many times show blinking (sometimes normal, green, or purple). If you take picture at the green moment so the picture result is greenish. I muist pay $ 100 to replace CCD sensor on Sony Service Center at Jakarta, main city of Indonesia. This happend to my Sony DCR-TRV22 too but thanks it was on guarantee coverage. My suspect was my Dry Cabinet that my fault I setting to "dry". (BE AWARE TO SET NOT TO DRY).
Then I buy Panasonic Lumix, the lens is Leica 36-432 mm tele. Leica is superb in tele, when you maximum zoom the tele at 432mm the picture is NOT become DARKEN like other camera lenses! Diafragma still can hold in f 2.8. This because when zoomed, the front lenses is fix so the light come into the camera without any difference, at other camera lenses system when zoomed the front lens will "GO UPHEAD" so it will reduced amount of light come into camera. One my dissapoint os this Lumix is performance at ISO 400 that not "DOT GRAIN" but "X SHAPE GRAIN". But overall this Lumix is fairly good compare the price.
Dissapointed with those "X" shape grainy, nowaday I test Nikon D70 and Canon 350D at my friends shop. I take picture of a local model. With the same time, the same f 5,6, (because some lenses is better at narrow diafragma and worse at wide open.)the same shutter speed at 1/60 sc. And for the fairness the nearest picture size (because Nikon D70 is 6 MBPixel and Canon 350D is 8 MBPixel). And then for the other fairness, Canon 350D zoomed average at 50 mm (kit lens for Canon is 18-55, Nikon max is 70 mm). The result, both Canon and Nikon has the superb SHARP IMAGES, so the skin texture of model is shown crisp. And yes, Canon and Nikon truly become more sharp with more expensive lenses. One thing I tested with "KIT LENS", the standart lens. I will not test with more sharp "L Series Canon Lens" since this not fair, L Series is too expensive for my pockect. As sharpness I felt difficult to judge since this Canon and Nikon is very sharp (Note the sharp and contrast parameter in this both camera can be your own custom set and may affect the result, I use normal contrast, normal saturation, and LOW SHARPNESS since high sharpness is software fooled with adding some manipulative colour in every edge of the object), but Nikon D70 and Canon 350D have DIFFERENT COLOUR TONES. This will lead to subjective matter. My friend love Nikon D70 colour tones, and I love Canon colour tones. This different colour tones may possibly due to very different sensor that Nikon D70 is CCD and Canon 350D is CMOS sensor. Nikon D70 colour tones is slightly more contrast, Canon 350D colour tones is something that smooth skinny.
About moire issue on Nikon D70 (moire is an effect like rainbow on heavy repeating texture like some cloth or else) yes that is true but difficult to see in everyday life, and this moire is easy avoiding, the trick is set SHARPNESS to the LOWEST. I always set SHARPNESS to OFF or "0".
I choose Canon D350 since I like the smooth skin tones, but I repeat, this is very subjective. Others may love Nikon`s colour tones.
ABout noise on low light condition : Nikon D70 and Canon 350D is better from any pocket camera at ISO 400 or above. Both have ISO 800 and 1600.
About Auto focus in low light condition : this not easy to explain. I test Lumix and Canon 350D. The test is to catch focus picture on a Computer Monitor that I set very low light. I create a thin LINE using photoshop and show it in monitor. The I change the brigtness of the monitor from bright to dark step by step until very dark as we cannot see anything in the monitor. Result is both LUMIX and 350D is the same limitations. Both the difference is Lumix has more wide area sensor to focus, 350D have 7 spot area, but the problem is each spot is too small. You must remeber METERING is DIFFERENCE with auto focus area. Metering is for auto exposure od auto white balance. AUTO FOCUS is on 7 small area (like DOT). In the day light if you shoot an area with 1 same colour and no texture like a big white paper, or blue sky, every camera will cannot focus. In low light make sure you shoot an area with colour difference or contrast difference. In low light take photo of stomach is difficult than take picture of eyes or nipple. Make sure to activate all of 7 spot area, and make sure the contrast area is catch by one or more "tiny" 7 auto focus spot area.I hope for future Canon make this tiny spot become wide. something sounds like 7 WIDE AUTO FOCUS SPOT AREA, not 7 tiny dot auto focus spot area.
One cons I little dissapointed : at low light 350D have no AF illuminator LED light like Nikon D70 or many pocket camera, but Canon use "pre flash" to illuminate the object. So in the low light if you want to take picture then flash will flash it several times at high speed rate may be 3 or 5 times, blup, blup, blup, then 350D will now cacth the focus and take the picture. This will make the person you take picture blind for a moment, this is weird and not funny. So the solution is you must buy the Canon flash that have LED lamp AF illuminator, so when focusing camera use the LED red lamp on the flas unit, not the internal flash it self.
So this camera is good, and sharp enough. For more better, buy good lens like 28-135mm IS USM that crisp in the center and edge (75-300mm USM is soft in the center of image result). Or if money is ok, buy L series lens that is very very SHARP, and for low light focus better ability but for Canon Flash EX Series with little red LED lamp illuminator.
- 5.0 out of 5
i would just like to offer up a professionals critique here as i think some may get dissuaded from some of the reviews previously posted..
one must keep in mind that many of the reviews that rate the camera as poor are ppl that are new to dslrs and have not gotten over the learning curve.. they are used to the bright almost fake looking pictures from their compacts.. that is simply not the look that you will achieve with a dslr.. canon and all other manufactures purposefully turn down the sharpening and saturation/contrast on their dslr models.. they do so to allow you the consumer to take control of your images and bring out the sharpness and colors in post-processing.. doing it this way allows for better image quality with less artifacting..
to get the most from your dslr.. you need to know a little more about photography concepts than with a pointnshoot.. so if you are disappointed in your images, its time to do a little research and figure out what you did wrong..
when used properly, this camera is capable of results that near those from professional level cameras that cost many times its price.. i have used them all from canon and do not feel hampered at all when using the rebel xt.. enjoy
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my 10 digital camera and by far is the best, I agree with the lack of flash and I bought a super flash to use when needed. I have taken over 3000 pics so far and just love everything about it. Quick response (shutter)Etc,,,....
I also had a lexar memory card but the problem was NOT in the camera so don't blame them... I sent it to Lexar and they sent back a updated card and have had no problems since. I have the 28-135usm is lens and the 75-300usm and I wish I would have paid the extra for the is on the 75-300. Even my wife likes to shoot with it and that is something since she has no experience with cameras.. Worth the money and time to learn it.. Read and read and READ...!!!!!
- 5.0 out of 5
Having converted from a point and shoot to the 350D is like suddenly winning the pools! I cannot belive the photos I am now taking.
- 5.0 out of 5
I bought the kit vesion added Ultra 1 gb card. I've owned and used Minolta SRT101, Canon AE-1, Olympus Stylus 80 and 120. This is the camera that is as versatile and useful as "old School" SLR that is at a price point that justified my purchase. I do not regret it. Focus is excellent and faster than doing it manually. Viewfinder can be a bit brighter using a better trapdoor reflexive surface. Performance of stock lens is above average. The download process is very simple. Aftermarket lens purchase is necessary when purchasing technically superior camera like this. At least I can buy top quality opticals- not possible with these quasi-SLR looking $500 cameras.
- 3.0 out of 5
Just bought the Rebel 350,3 weeks ago, I now noticed that focusing was a problem using Creative Zone. More than noticeable off-focus. Thought it was just my hands shaking. Used a tripod with timer and problem still persists. Using the Basic Zone instead the focusing was correct. Did someone else observed the same thing?
- 5.0 out of 5
The Rebel is a great camera. I have been using a Olympus OM-1 for years and decided to go to digital. I could not have picked a better camera. the photos a clear and crisp. It allows me as much or as little input as I want with each photo. GREAT camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is an excellent camera. The BEST of the Best!
- 5.0 out of 5
Finally switched over to a dSLR and don't regret it. The camera is great, light, compact and easy to use plus I could use my previous lenses. To use the camera to it's fullest you must experiment, experiment, experiment and that's the best way to learn. People expect it to be a point and shoot camera, which it can be. But there's also the creative side of the camera. If you don't have the patience to learn then I don't recommend this camera and just buy a really good point and shooter.
- 5.0 out of 5
I just got back from a week adventure through the New England area, and going through all of the pictures (1600 or so), I am AMAZED at how great they are.
Before I get started, I will say that I opted out of the kit lens and bought a Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4/5. ($220)
I bought the camera, a bit wary of the "don't listen to the good ratings...", but I assure you that they are the best pictures that I have seen come from a camera. No point and shoot that I have ever seen can even compare to the quality, depth, crispness, and sharpness. Along with us, we had 3 p&s's to compare with. They took great shots as well, but in comparison, there really is none. Factor in 8MP to be able to crop, and you have a complete package to alter distant shots that you weren't prepared for.
About 300 yards off of our boat we had a humpback whale breach out of the water. I quickly go my camera out, set it on auto-sport shot and waited. The next time it jumped out, I held the button down and zoomed in (all at once). The pictures proved to be incredible, and the zooming in while shooting was no problem whatsoever, the pictures are crisp, clear, and detailed.
Now, I will say that the camera took some pretty crappy pictures, too. But, that was me playing around with the settings... I would say that if a bad picture came out, 90% of the time it was user problem, 5% was light (rainy/cloudy/etc), 5% was unknown.
LEARN TO USE THIS CAMERA.
If you are the type that will expect the BEST picture from AUTO, then do not buy this camera. Buy a nice quality camera with a 10x plus zoom and good shutter response(Olympus C750 is a great choice, imo). On the XT, Auto provides for great pictures, but if you really want to experiment, set it to Av or Tv to play with apature or shutter, the camera does the rest.
Bottom line:
Great Camera, Great Pictures, Great Speed, worth every single penny
- 5.0 out of 5
Wow, how can so many people be so WRONG?
The 350D is an outstanding piece of equipment.
I bought one after trying the 300D, and I was impressed. The image quality is excellent, and the autofocus (on shorter lenses, mind) is extremely fast rarely getting it out of focus.
The one place that I found this camera falls down, is in low lighting conditions. Fair enough, it's an "Advanced amateur/Semi-professional" camera, you wouldn't expect it to be able to operate in such harsh light. For that sort of durability, get a Pro-SLR, or a 20D.
The pictures are nearly always sharp and I would say to anyone that is getting continually out of focus shots, that they are failing to use the camera correctly.
This camera is definitely the best in this category, fast autofocus, many manual options and the option to hold the shutter open all lead to this camera being exceptional value for money.
- 1.0 out of 5
I purchased a rebel xt for my daughter and sent it to her (she is at work about four hours away). She called to say that she was getting an error message regarding the memory card. She came home this weekend and I took a look. THe card was very stiff to put in and take out. I took it to a repair shop where the tech looked at it and told me the back of the slot was warped and the pins would not slide into the holes in the card. I spoke with Canon who told me I must send it in for repair. You would think that before it left the factory, someone would check to make sure the camera worked before sending it on for sale. This was my first Canon purchase and I suspect my last.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera is everything the experts say it is, and for the people who submitted the bad reviews, maybe you should learn how to use it before you talk about it like it's some piece of crap. Hundreds of experts cannot be wrong. It is the best camera on the market for that price. Just because a camera doesn't have what you describe as sturdiness, that doesn't mean it cannot take better pictures than a sturdy camera. The kit lenses are not the greatest, but that is why they are kit lenses. Buy a real lens and then talk to me about quality.
- 4.0 out of 5
I've had this camera for about two months, and honestly, it disappointed me at first. The focus with the kit lens was inaccurate, and the resulting pictures came out soft, with the center of the frame being the softest part of the image. I tried the automatic mode, and the results came out like I described.
Color was fine, and when I did use the manual focus, pictures were sharper and more accurate.
I borrowed a friend's 17-40mm Canon USM lens, and what a difference! Accurate focus, better sharpness in the entire frame, and faster automatic focus altogether. He also let me use a 50mm prime from Canon, and again, better clarity all around.
As I've read in some "professional" reviews, you may want to consider getting just the body for the Rebel XT, then a separate, higher quality lens. I wish I had done this...I could've saved some money.
Also, try utilizing the manual functions. As for the flash, it's not the best. My Canon S410 seems to have better coverage than this one. But if you're taking higher quality/professional pictures, you may want to purchase a bigger flash anyway.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera is wonderful - easily the best digital I've owned. There's little to add to the other good reviews, but I did want to shed some light on all these missing pictures: the camera will allow you to "burst" shooting pictures (for lack of a better term) where you can take a dozen or so pictures in rapid succession before it needs to slow down and copy them to the memory card - which essentially gets around my biggest complaint with cheaper cameras, which simply take entirely too long between photos. HOWEVER, if you switch the camera off immediately after taking a shot, you may lose a picture or three if they've not had time to finish copying to the memory card. Solution? Just remember to look at the blinking red LED (which, I'll admit, is far enough down on the back of the body that it's easy to miss) and don't switch it off until the LED stops blinking. I dropped a few in my first week before I realised what I was doing. PEBCAK, I believe they call it. Cheers.
- 3.0 out of 5
I have shot over 2500 pictures with the XT and at first I thought it was just my rusty SLR skills but I am beginning to think there IS a auto focus problem with this camera. I would guess that only about 1 out of 20 to 25 pictures are what I would call crisp clear and sharp focus. I keep experimenting with different setting and nothing seems to work. I bought the body only so I could avoid soft pictures with the cheap 18-55 lens kit and bought the 28-135 IS USM lens with the thoughts that a better lens gives better pictures. Does not look that way. Funny thing is when it does focus properly it is outstanding. It just does not happen very often. Even when I try to focus the camera my self I have problems since the viewfinder is somewhat dim. Would I buy this camera again if I had it to do all over.... not sure. Most likely not. Too many people are having the same problem for this not to be a real problem so I hope Canon realizes it and can fix it with a firmware fix. I might try RAW one of these days but that sounds like too much work.
- 5.0 out of 5
I already own the Digital Rebel, but just wanted to upgrade for the added pixels, and the features that have been added. I love the quality of the pictures, and you can make some great enlargements from the large-size files you can get. Highly Recommended! Great Price.
- 5.0 out of 5
I don't know what the problem is with the other reviewers' cameras but I suspect "operator error." I have owned both the 300D and now the 350D. The 350 is superior in every aspect in my view. The 8 megapixel CMOS sensor produces rich, lovely photos, superior in my opinion to the competition. Color and sharpness are subjective matters and can be easily adjusted via the camera settings to suit any photographer. Don't like autofocus? Set it for center sensor focus or focus manually. My favorite 'Parameter' settings are +0 contrast, +1 sharpness, +2 saturation. See my results at: http://www.pbase.com/sbowen
- 4.0 out of 5
In our studio we use 3 Canon mini-DV video cam's and so I chose this one to move from film 35 mm SLR for personal and casual studio use… very happy with it after some heavy sessions. A complete SLR feel, superb quality so far, and all my EOS lenses work like magic with it.
- 1.0 out of 5
I'm from the Philippines and I just bought this camera last April 2005. I thought it's the perfect camera but after just one day I've discovered that my old 4 megapixel Kodak camera was better! I felt being robbed. It was my hard earned money. I want to return it to Canon people. Your camera is very lousy!!!! PLEASE DON'T BUY ANY CANON PRODUCTS ANYMORE!!!!!
- 2.0 out of 5
Don't use the Rebel XT with Lexar's 80x compact flash cards. I've now lost over 3G of pictures due to the cards just not working after shooting lots of pictures. Lexar has been little help, and tells me no one has lost so many pics. Cannon says it is not their fault. We still don't know if its the camera or the cards, and no one has been able to find our pictures. Besides, Lexar replaced a brand new 2G card with a used model after they could not find our pictures. Stay away.
- 5.0 out of 5
I took around 500 pictures in 3 weeks and I am astounded by the image quality !
This camera is very quick. I use a 2.2GB microdrive.
I also bought the handle kit with an extra battery.
Also a 60mm macro f2.8, wow.
For the price nothing come close, I feel bad for those with D70 with only 6 Mpixels.
- 2.0 out of 5
Have had this camera now for three days. Thinking i was getting more for my money with the canon, i was clearly mistaken! the auto focus gets confused very easily and often misses completely. if that wasn't bad enough the 350d has a strong tendency to over expose, meaning irreversible washed out images. The images are sharp when in focus but are cold and slightly flat. I have a friend with a Pentax ist ds. The images produced with his camera are in comparison warmer with much better exposure along with a a good level of sharpness. The Pentax also has a far superior 11 point AF which hits the spot every time. The 350 is going back to be replaced by either the Pentax or even possibly the Nikon d70s depending on finances.
- 5.0 out of 5
Camera meets all my digital photography needs plus more!!! Just the best camera out there! Recommended with total trust
- 1.0 out of 5
Owned the camera for three weeks. I purchased the expensive flash, lens, and so on. The camera took horrible pictures in low lighting situations, and there was no consistency with exposures. Much different pictures on screen compared to when you downloaded them. They were much worse.
- 3.0 out of 5
I use this camera 6 days out of 7 working for a news paper co. in the Advertising Dept.
The camera is ok for this but I would not buy this camera for myself because Auto focus does not focus where you want it to so you have to select a box in the viewer...I choose the middle and leave it their most of the time. SHARPNESS ! Huge disappointment when you view your Image at full Pixel size ...I have not Printed an enlargement yet to see how noticeable it actually will be.
Can not get my Canon 2 x converter to work with my Canon 100 to 400 Image stabilizer zoom Lens.
The Image is black with a extremely faint Image showing. Tried all sort of different settings.
- 4.0 out of 5
I have only owned this for 2 weeks, so am no expert. However, so far I love it. Easy to use, fast start-up, almost instant response & great quality photos. I have seen other comments about poor autofocus & the only time I have had trouble was trying to photo my black dog at night!
Only criticism is that Photoshop CS does not support the 350D RAW format yet. Looks like I'll have to upgrade to CS2!
- 5.0 out of 5
I have had none of the problems, so far, of some of the reviewers. Pictures (primarily waterfalls) are crisp, even with the inexpensive "kit" lens, hand held and wide open or nearly so, with shutter speeds primarily about 1/100 sec. I have made several 11" x 16" prints on my Canon i9900, and they look quite good.
While the camera does not have the very solid construction of the 20D it is reasonable.
I will soon be testing my newly arrived Tamron 28-75/2.8 and send a follow-up review.
- 2.0 out of 5
At first I thought this was a perfect camera for me- light, easy to use and with good results. It is now sitting in the box-I am taking it back to the shop where I purchased it as the cf card failed to work and then deleted the images. I thought it was the cf card so the shop exchanged the card(a2gig Lexar). I used for a wedding at the weekend and 40 images were lost when I changed the card and today when I tried to reformat the card it refused to play.
Maybe it 's just a faulty camera????
- 1.0 out of 5
I had a Canon 300D and fitted a 1.4F USM lens, the results were perfect. When I saw the 350D I thought it only be better, lighter, faster and more features - I was fooled! What a sad fool too, I sold my perfect 300D to my father in law and bought the 350D - In 3 weeks I have never taken a picture as good as my 3 year old kodak 4mb snap camera! This camera is a joke. All features and no quality. I read this week a review in a UK mag. that confirmed my experience and that was it. I quickly bought a 300D again from the limit stock still on sale. Don't make my mistake, this camera takes photos which are poor quality , often out of focus and even when focused so soft you wonder why you wasted your money.
- 4.0 out of 5
This is a really incredible digital camera, and I'm glad to have bought one, but what use are 800 methods of autofocus if none of them work? That's not completely fair -- they all seem to work acceptably up to distances of a few metres, but they die (badly) with distance shooting. I'm actually a fan of manual focus, but I'd really like to be able to hand my camera to someone else the odd time and not have to explain manual focus in detail. Maybe they'll fix this in a future software patch/update, but unless you're fine with always using manual focus (or waiting for that elusive update), this is not the camera for you.
On the plus side, the camera does everything else flawlessly, from ultra-sharp 8mp images, to ultra-fast response (ironically including autofocus), to AdobeRGB support and an almost insultingly simple menu interface (powerful, but very simple, so very good). The LCD could be a bit brighter for daylight shooting, but it's extremely good otherwise. Canon's MacOSX software's a bit disjointed, but Photoshop and iPhoto both work fine (still working out which is best for everyday use, probably Photoshop CSv2, of course).
- 2.0 out of 5
I am in the market for a dSLR. For me, it has to be a small, light budget dSLR for my semi-professional filming/photography business. I almost went out and bought the Pentax *ist DS (as it's much better at photo taking than the 300D) and then the 350 D was unleashed by Canon! I was immediately interested and went to Jessops in Birmingham to try it out. To my horror, the pictures in auto and manual white balance mode were washed out in the store. I know this can be amended in Photoshop, but to be plainly fair, paying 700 Pounds for the kit should produce good/excellent pics without too much post image processing. The other MAJOR problem with the Canon 350 D is its auto focusing - its terrible. I had all sorts of problems, only two pictures out of the eight I took at the store were in focus. I was extremely disappointed with the results when I took them home to view on my monitor. Although quick to focus, its no good when the autofocus consistently gets it wrong. I then tried a different photographic shop in Coventry near to where I work. They too had the Canon selling for the same price. I again went into the shop and took images with it. This time I took indoor as well as outdoor shots. I took pictures with the Canon and the Pentax *ist DS and then compared them at home on my monitor. Again, the Pentax images were far superior in terms of exposure and more importantly, sharpness. The Canon is lighter than the Pentax and slightly smaller. But I have solid proof to show the 6 megapixel Pentax is far, far superior than the Canon. DO NOT BUY THE CANON UNTIL YOU HAVE TESTED IT! THE PICS LOOK SHARP ON THE VIEWFINDER, TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT HOME, ZOOM IN A LITTLE AND THE IMPERFECTIONS WILL SURPRISE YOU! ANYONE THINKING OF BUYING THE CANON FOR SEMI-PROFESSIONAL USE - STAY AWAY! You may be wondering why I haven't mentioned the best camera in this group (Nikon D70) - well, its just a bit too large for me. Pentax *ist DS for me thank you very much.
- 5.0 out of 5
Bought the black body--which feels sturdy, solid, expensive and comfortable in my hands--with an EF 24-85 1:3.5-4.5 zoom lens. I love this, my first SLR, camera. It's fast, takes big bright sharp pictures and has more features than I can imagine using right now. I'd recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade to an SLR from a point and shoot. Obviously, a pro would be limited by this camera, but not, yet, a regular user like me. My only beef so far is a minor quibble: custom white balance is a 5 or 6 step process I haven't mastered yet.
- 2.0 out of 5
I was really excited to be one of the first to purchase the new rebel xt (silver). After getting it home and spending time checking out the features I was really disappointed with the feel and weight of the camera. I was not impressed with its plastic body and felt It had the same quality as a $200.00 camera from a discount store. I think that Canon could have invested a little more resources in the construction considering the $1000.00 they are getting for it. The camera just feels cheap and the quality could be better. I Should have bought the Nikon D70 or Canon 20D. They feel like a sturdier better quality piece of equipment even though the Nikon is also polycarbon.
- 5.0 out of 5
I do not have one of the new XT's but we sell them at Best Buy so I have had the opportunity to use one over the last week. This camera is incredible. When I first heard about it I did not believe that they could make it any smaller but they did. The camera takes 3 frames per second which rivals most film cameras and will shoot 14 shots in one burst. I am going to assume that they were able to boost its performance by adding some sort of cache as it takes a little bit of time for all of the shots to go on the card after you are done with the burst. However, I was using a junk 32 mb card, not a CF II that I should. All in all, this is an unbelievable camera that is very easy to use at an unbelievable price. We carry them at Best Buy for only $999. I have started saving for my own. You will love it.
