Hey! You should know that Fuji has released a newer version of this product: the Fujifilm FinePix S2950.
Fuji FinePix S1800
Editor's Review
With the S1800, you get a big zoom for a low price -- an 18x zoom for a suggested price of $229, to be precise. You'll also get HD video and some speedy continuous shooting. It looks like a solid bridge/mini-dSLR/whatever-ya-call-it model, something that Fuji has been very good at over the years. In reality, it feels like a toy. It's a cheap camera with a huge lens. Image quality is average at best and performance is sluggish. It's a decent option if all you care about is an enormous lens, but on the whole, this is a mediocre superzoom. It's been replaced by the S2950, a very similar model in all respects.
Editor's Review
With the S1800, you get a big zoom for a low price -- an 18x zoom for a suggested price of $229, to be precise. You'll also get HD video and some speedy continuous shooting. It looks like a solid bridge/mini-dSLR/whatever-ya-call-it model, something that Fuji has been very good at over the years. In reality, it feels like a toy. It's a cheap camera with a huge lens. Image quality is average at best and performance is sluggish. It's a decent option if all you care about is an enormous lens, but on the whole, this is a mediocre superzoom. It's been replaced by the S2950, a very similar model in all respects.
Specifications
- 12 megapixels
- 18x optical zoom
- Dual image stabilization
- 3-inch LCD monitor
- Electronic viewfinder
- 720p HD video
- Continuous shooting up to 8 fps
- Captures to SD/SDHC memory cards
- 4x AA batteries
- Release Date: Feb 28, 2010
Shop for S1800 Accessories
Fuji FinePix S1800 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
The zoom is fantastic and with the ISO at 100 the photo can be cropped right down and it is still clear and sharp.
Unfortunately it became entangled with my backpack as I took it off and what I thought was a gentle tap as it hit the concrete ended up being terminal. It never worked again.
Beautiful camera and great to take on holidays. Macro, telephoto - great.
This review is relevant for the S1800, S1850, s2500HD or any of the S series 12mp models as they're all pretty much the same camera.
Why did I want this camera?
I've been into photography for around 30 years and currently use a pentax K100d digital slr with a Tamron 18-250 zoom. I also use a fuji Z33 waterproof camera for on the beach and in the water and a Panasonic SD60 HD video camera. The problem I had is with the Pentax dslr. It takes great pictures but most of the time it's just too big, heavy and cumbersome. Also it's always in the back of my mind that leaving £700 worth of camera by a sunbed is risky and I'm conscious that's it's an expensive camera to get knocked about on holiday. So I don't take it with me. That leave's me using my Panasonic to take snapshots most of the time. The resolution is pretty low, effectively around 2.3 mp and I was concerned about damaging the switch constantly changing between video/photo. So I needed the flexibility of my Pentax but smaller, lighter and cheaper. Obviously I would take care of what I bought but I wanted something that I wouldn't be bothered about so much.
After studying many cameras and reviews I decided on Fuji. They had the best combination of functionality, picture quality and price. The latest S series cameras use a 14mp sensor - for me that's just too many pixels on a little sensor. This causes image noise and the Fuji noise reduction goes into overdrive doing what I would describe as `pixel painting'. This smooths the noise out across many pixels leaving a pleasing but pasty image. The problem is it also smooths away fine detail. Not a problem if you don't do enlargements, you'll be perfectly happy. The 12mp models still do this but not as much, so that's what I decided on.
Handling
This is bigger than a compact with a chunky lens and hand grip and a big 3 inch screen on the back. In fact the hand grip is around the same size as my Pentax dslr. However, the camera is still amazingly small and lightweight for what it offers. The handgrip allows a firm hold so you can shoot one handed most of the time. There's just enough room on the back for your thumb to grip the corner. The buttons are difficult to knock accidentally and have a nice precise click.
I have found the screen to be ok and the electronic viewfinder is perfect for it's most common purpose ie when the sun is too bright for you to see the screen. The resolution isn't high enough to show great detail but it does the job. You can also see your shutter speed and aperture while shooting and during playback you can display the key info including an exposure histogram. The on/off switch could be a bit better but it works ok. The control dial feels solid and contains most of the modes available. You have to delve into the menu to change scene modes.
The flash is an slr style pop up unit which requires you to release it manually. Compared to a compact this means it won't just flash automatically for you if there isn't enough light, you have to decide that you want to use it. I prefer this and I'm used to it but if you're moving up from a compact then this might catch you out at first. It's powerful enough to cover most situations. (The slow synchro option works quite well as long as you use it where there is some available light otherwise the shutter speeds will be too slow).
Shooting Modes
This camera offers many of the options that a dslr has and you should never be stuck for choice. The camera also offers great flexibility with ISO levels. This controls the sensitivity of the sensor. In practice this means that a low ISO eg 64 will need more available light but image noise will be low giving the best quality. You can set a high ISO (up to 6400) - this will operate in much lower light allowing you to shoot in darker conditions or use faster shutter speeds. However, as a lot less light hits the sensor it has to amplify it. The more it amplifies the more image distortion or `noise' is produced. High noise levels show as a mottled or grainy picture with less contrast and colour. So would you always want the lowest ISO setting? Well you will also still need a fast enough shutter speed to stop your picture from blurring. In this case you may need to increase the ISO to allow you to use an appropriate shutter speed. What a lot of fiddling about that is. The Fuji has a great way of managing this for you with Auto ISO. So you can set the ISO to any level manually but you can also let the camera adjust it dynamically. You just decide whether the maximum it will go to is 400 or 800. Setting Auto 400 will help keep noise down if that's important for the picture but in low light you may end up needing to use the flash. Auto 800 allows shooting in lower light or faster shutter speeds but with a possible increase in visible noise.
This is how I use mine;
Full auto - for use at any time but useful when the lighting gets lower, it has auto 800 ISO. If you just want to point and shoot this is a great option and I trust it, it works really well.
P Program - The same as full auto but I've set the ISO to Auto 400
S Shutter priority - I use this if I'm using a lot of zoom or for moving subjects. In auto mode the camera will try to increase shutter speed when you zoom and the antishake helps but sometimes it's not enough for a sharp picture. So this is set to 1/400th second with Auto 800 ISO.
A Aperture Priority - For me this is one weakness the camera has. Controlling the aperture means restricting the amount of light that can pass through the lens. This camera doesn't control aperture with an iris which can be closed down in stages (stops). It uses a neutral density filter which reduces light by 2 stops. It's either on or off. This is effectively a darkened filter snapped across the lens (internally). A bit like putting on sunglasses. The advantage of an iris is that you can increase depth of field (ie how much of the picture from front to back is in focus) by stopping it down. It also can also improve edge definition a little on zoom lenses. The only benefit of an ND filter is that you can restrict light to allow you to use a slower shutter speed. So say it's a bright summer's day and you want to use a slower shutter speed on a waterfall. Setting the higher aperture value will allow you to slow the shutter by 2 stops.
M Manual - Plenty of flexibility but I never use this. I prefer the auto or shutter priority modes letting the camera adjust exposure on the fly while I think about the picture itself.
C Custom - The same as full auto but with ISO set at 64 for top quality.
Movie - I've got this set to the HD 720p setting. It's not full HD and it's not as sharp as a dedicated HD video camera. But it's not bad either if you follow these 3 guidelines;
1) Try not to zoom during filming as you'll hear the motor noise. Zoom first then shoot, stop shooting, change zoom setting then start shooting again. The motor noise isn't that bad actually and I zoom during filming but it might bug some people.
2) The microphone is very sensitive to noises close to the camera such as the lens cap flapping about on a windy day so keep that in your left hand and avoid making noises with your hands on the camera.
3) Don't pan across scenes too quickly as you might get some jumpy frames.
Panorama - Let me tell you now, this is fantastic and I love it. It is a treat for wide angle photography. You can take 2 or 3 pictures side by side and the camera will stitch them seamlessly together. I like to use 2 pictures, it's a good compromise. This gives an image shape similar to a cinema movie. If you're really fussy it can highlight lens barrel distortion so try not to use the camera at full wide angle, tap the zoom in a little. Also try to keep the camera as level as possible in all the shots.
I was really surprised how good this is.
SP Scene mode - Choose (in the menu) from a big range of scene modes. These are fully automatic modes but they will bias the shutter, aperture, iso and colour settings in different ways. Most useful to me are the Sport mode for moving subjects and Natural and Flash. This latter option is great to use on bright days where backlighting may be a problem. Pop up the flash then for each shot you take it will actually take 2 pictures, one with normal auto exposure and one with flash. It will display them side by side. It seems to use the same exposure settings for both but adds fill in flash on the second. It works well and you have a choice.
This is so useful as it allows you to decide later which option is best and there's no fiddling about switching the flash on and off or changing settings.
SR Auto - A sort of super auto mode that tries to determine what type of picture your taking and set the appropriate scene mode. If it can't make it's mind up its sets standard auto. I don't use this.
Macro - Pretty good for the price - no focusing or exposure problems.
Anti Shake
Leave this on. It's not as effective as on other cameras I've used but nevertheless is still makes a worthwhile difference. I can take hand held shots without flash in low light with slow shutter speeds and it works well. It seems less effective with telephoto shots. I'd say it makes around 1.5 stops difference on average.
Image noise
Packing 12mp into such a small sensor seems like a recipe for image noise. The APS C sensor in my DSLR is several times bigger than in the Fuji and only has 6mp spread across it (Thus each pixel is a lot bigger so receives much more light). So inevitably the DSLR suffers from far less `noise' as it doesn't have to amplify the signal so much.
Having said all of that things are a lot better than I expected. In fact pretty good. Noise does creep in gradually but up to ISO 400 it's not bad at all. ISO 800 is still useable but the inevitable mottling and softness are noticeable if you look for it. Anything above that and noise get very noticeable but don't just dismiss this. The quality may not be great but at least these higher settings allow you to capture a shot which may previously have been impossible.
Set the ISO to auto 400 or 800 and in normal use you should be perfectly happy. The camera does a good job.
Resolution
This is around 1600 lph, pretty much the same as my 6mp dslr. Ideally you would expect around 2000 lph from a 12mp sensor. The limiting factors are likely to be the fact that the pixels are so small and the resolving power of the lens.
This is still a good news story, enlarged to 8" x 10" or even 11" x 14" pictures should still look good.
Being ultra critical there is some barrel distortion at wide angle if you look for it and I would say that the lens is slightly less sharp at it's telephoto end but given the fantastic 18 x zoom range, compact size and the relatively low price it's a great performer.
Auto Focus
I've set this to use the central area. In this way I always know what it's focused on eg point at the focal point, half press the shutter to lock focus then reframe if needed while holding down the shutter before shooting . I've not had any problems with this. It does hunt a little at telephoto or in low light but always seems to focus ok. The focus light also works well in very low light.
Exposure
I've set this to average across the picture. It seems to favour burning out bright patches in order to get things right in the rest of the picture but in practice this works well. Exposure levels are pretty much spot on to me(you can adjust the meter or bracket exposures if you want).
Colour is set to standard and again seems realistic and just about right. None of the garish pictures that you used to get a few years ago with Fuji cameras.
I've set sharpness back at standard. I tried soft as I thought less sharpening might also mean less noise reduction but there wasn't really any noticeable difference. The standard setting seems just about right.
Conclusion
A camera like this is always going to be a compromise, it's built down to a price so there are other cameras that do some things better. However, for the price this camera offers a wealth of functionality and great pictures. It's easy to learn and a pleasure to use. For most people this is all the camera they would ever need.
Phil Leese
works great. 28 bucks at amazon.com
I'm making great pictures with it,some of them even better than those made by Canon SX20(450$ cost).The only thing I lack is manual focusing.So I agree with the men wrote "for some people it's the only camera they need"
i noticed the same problem on my new camera. How did you solve it? What did the technicians say to you when you brought it back? I´m wondering if i also have to send my camera back to Fuji. Your reply would be helpful to me. Thx
Davide
i´ve just bought the s-1800 and noticed the same problem on the screen. How did you lose it? What did the techincians say to you when you brought the camera back? Indeed i´m wonderin if i also have to send it back to fuji..
your reply would be very helpful to me
thanx
davide
Do you find this is good for small budget? or better to go small compact camera?
regards
Warranty is
it was brand new and defective they dont stand behind and dont call back
But before you do down the road to decide on a repair or not, do all the easy stuff. Reset the camera (the white balance could be off). This will put it back to default settings. If it's till dark, try updating the firmware. If that's not going to cut it, you've eliminated a software issue and that leads to a hardware problem. And that's a repair.
I'd get an estimate from Fuji, and then talk to these guys ... darntoothysam.com/ they may be able to beat it.
If you are not smart enough to use it sell it and shut up
Alkaline 300 images
Lithium 700 images
Ni-MH 500 images
Based on CIPA standard, measured in B (auto) mode using batteries supplied with camera (alkaline batteries only) and SD memory card.
Note: Number of shots that can be taken with battery varies with battery charge level and will decline at low temperatures.
Note that this is taken under ideal conditions. Your mileage may vary.
Another question: I want to take pictures in auditorium from back rows zooming in and using flash. Will my picutre come out good. My cannon point/shoot camera does not capture anything in dark. Please advise. Thanks.
I noticed that you said that you used a FujiFilm S1800. I am very new to this, and cannot figure out how to change the shutter speed and aperture! Maybe you could help me? Please?
Thanks!
What were you expecting from a $200 camera. Spend $2000 for a professional camera and another $3000 for a Canon L series 500mm f2.8 lens, then you can complain. Actually, it will spoil you and you'll never come back.
There are some things you can do to make this camera do better.
1. Enable high speed shooting in the setup menu. Battery will run down faster and the camera will heat up, but it makes a difference.
2. Disable all the options. Shut off any noise maker, it takes processor power. Disable pricture preview. Use low image compression, not high. The more the internal processor has to do, the slower it runs.
3. Take the camera off full automatic. I like to use shutter priority and set the shutter speed at the lens focal length. Experiment. A good starting point is 1/60th second for indoor and 1/250th for outdoor. Too slow a shutter will cause the picture to blur, too fast will cause the picture to be dark. Again, experiment experiment experiment.
4. READ THE MANUAL. Not the little printed one, but the complete manual that's on the CD.
5. Good action shots aren't easy for anyone. It begins to get a little easier after you have shot your first 1000 pictures though. <grin>
Anyway, I shall persevere and use the new cam for portraits/ landscapes and my old cam for action.
Thanks for the tips though.
Kerry.
Saw you comment on this page for weird motor noise you are getting. I got the same kind of motor noise when in SR auto mode and in other mode i do hear the noise but not the motor noise. So it in normal ?.
Have you got the solution?
Regards,
Vinay K.B
If you want a camera that's built to last, you need to look at a dSLR. It's an expensive initial investment, but a dSLR will last longer.
thanks
Dave
Suggest you do a complete camera reset. Leave all the settings on factury defaults and try some test shots. Let us know what you find out.
Dave....
Suggest you take a memory card and batteries with you to the store. Test shoot the camera you wish to buy. When you find one that you feel is acceptable, buy that one, not another box, that one. If you need, have a few prints made up while you wait.
Try the focus test that I mentioned just above your comment. Let us know what you find.
1. How can you have Aperture priority shooting when there's no aperture?
There's is no aperture in the lens. It's always shooting wide open. What appears to be an aperture is just a neutral density filter that drops in the optical path.
2. No aperture requires very careful lens alignment.
Even the smallest errors will cause a lens to soft focus when shot wide open. Those that can't get your camera to produce a sharply focused picture may want to do some testing. Place camera on outdoor tripod,on a sunny day,shutter priority. Set shutter to 1/500 sec. Take shots at wide, medium zoom, and full zoom. They should all be sharp and no grain. Otherwise, exchange it, or ask Fuji service to align the lens. If you don't have a tripod, shoot full zoom at 1/1000 sec.
3. Bad memory cards.
No thery're not. I suspect you have a bad contact on the memory card. Try cleaning the card contacts with just a very small amount of pure alcohol. Do not use the type that is part water. Not a lot of pressure on a Qtip is needed. Then run the card in and out a couple of times. See what happens. Always format the card on the camera.
4. Fuzzy indoor shots.
Take the camera off full automatic. I have always used shutter priority for indoor shooting. Set the shutter speed at the inverse of the lens focal length. Experiment. Shake reduction should allow one or two more steps slower. It depends on how much you shake. Otherwise, shoot towards the wide side of the lens, use minimum compression and crop later.
This camera isn't bad for the price. It has the manual modes I like. Will allow B&W pictures. Even has provision to soft focus and coloring like Kodachrome. OOPS, this is Fuji. Like Velvia 50 film. Have fun.
I hadn't realised there was no aperture until I saw this comment. Is this common with superzoom cameras?
Thanks,
Stephen
I am planning to buy a S1800 Camera soon and saw there’s a big hype about memory card compatibility. Could you please tell me if Kingston SDHC Class-4 - 8 GB card will work with this? Or can you recommend a compatible 8GB card for it (Fuji compatibility sheet was usless)
Thank you
Can anyone help?
I bought a USB A to USB B Micro but it's the wrong size.
Hope this helps.
Guess we'll just get it from Fuji.
Thanks
These high zoom camera's require a tripod to keep it steady, I've shot amazingly clear pictures with this camera.
If you're using the Automatic mode, of course your camera will compensate higher ISO numbers (noisier photos) for quicker shutter speed.
And autofocus should be activated, along with 2second self timer for best photos
Transcend 16GB Class 10 SDHC Card (TS16GSDHC10)
So SD and SDHC cards are not just interchangable, 2 different animals for 2 different cameras.
Sorry to burst your bubble! I was hoping we would have a really large card for our Fujifine Pix 1800.
Pictures are amazing too
Fuji FinePix S1800 Reviews
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