Kodak EasyShare V610
Editors' Comments
The Kodak V610 is one of the smallest extended zoom cameras in the world, and they still managed to fit two lenses in the thing. And Bluetooth! What will they think of next? Hot on the heels of Kodak's dual lens V570 (and Panasonic's extremely small, extended zoom TZ1 model), the V610 throws in everything but the kitchen sink. The 6 megapixel CCD and large 2.8 inch LCD display would be good enough for a typical camera, but the V610 isn't a typical camera. The two lenses give it an arresting look, as well as a huge 10x optical zoom. Bluetooth wireless technology allows for short-range transfer of images from camera to computer or printer with ease. All this in a camera with a slick Art Deco style that's only 0.9 inches thick! The Kodak EasyShare V610 has plenty of flair and features to make your photography interesting. Keep in mind however, the V610 lacks the optical image stabilization that made the Panasonic TZ1 so appealing. Check out both before you decide.
Specifications
- 6 megapixels
- 10x optical zoom / 4x digital zoom
- Auto focus and auto exposure
- ISO 64-800
- 2.8 inch LCD screen
- movie mode w/sound
- JPEG file format
- Secure Digital storage (28MB internal).
Kodak EasyShare V610 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
Thanks
The main question is how close to the subject you need to be to get the level detail you need. For example, if the frame of a picture would be filled a person's hand, that's one thing. If it would be filled with a knuckle, then you might need something that is good at "macro" photography. This means that the lens is able to focus on things that are close, and ideally, that the auto-focus mechanism works (or as a fallback that the camera provides manual focus).
Another challenge is to have the subject you are photographing be still. This is easy with a hand, for example, not so easy if you're taking a picture of a body part that would less conveniently stay still.
Similarly, the camera may need to be still, as well. This is easy if you can mount it on a tripod, but tripods can be cumbersome.
Adequate lighting is another factor. Unless you are taking photos of a significant part of the body, your camera will be so close that any on-camera flash will not cover the area properly. So will you be in a position to provide a lot of light from multiple angles (a couple of bright fluorescent lights you can position where you want)?
So, if you have a still subject more than 12 to 16 inches way, or tripod, or lots of light or any combination of these, you probably only need a basic camera. If not, I think you should consider a zoom camera with a high ISO rating and image stabilization.
A zoom will allow you to step back from the subject a few feet (and zoom in on the area of interest) while allowing the on-camera flash to fully light the scene. On the downside, the further you zoom, the more small movements of the camera are amplified, thus creating a less sharp image due to "camera shake". Image stabilization will reduce the effect of camera shake and allow you to shoot at a slower shutter speed and still get a sharp photo. High ISO (800 or higher, especially if the camera sets it automatically as needed) will allow your camera to choose a faster shutter speed than it would otherwise.
Two cameras that might fit this bill are the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and then very small Koday V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Both are relatively inexpensive and have good zooms and high ISO ratings with image stabilization.
Looking for my "perfect" camera model:(1) minimum 5.0 MP or better
(2) optical image stabilization(3) decent zoom (would prefer 4x- 6x range)
(4) good photos, of course!? - subjects generally children and lots of indoors or motion shots
(5) Is there a brand better known for less red eye?
Secondary "wishes" would include decent start up and battery re-charge times. Would prefer a proprietary battery or only 2 AA rechargeables. And why are they all dropping the real-life viewfinder?!
The reviews on the newest panasonics still complain about "noise" - is that true? Have considered the Fuji F30 but really holding out for more zoom (its only 3.0) and I don't think the F30 has OIS - just faster shutter speeds. Have also looked at Canon S3 but size and weight is too much.
Maybe the Canon G7 or SD800 coming out? My budget is up to $500.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
This year's crop of cameras might just be the one that gives you what you need. Although I will say that the need to handle "children and lots of indoor or motion shots" sets a high bar indeed. I think sport photography and children photography tie for the most demanding photo challenges, with children being a touch harder :-) The issue is that they move a lot, and move unpredictably, so it's very hard to have your camera ready when they happen to be in the scene.
Frankly, I have tried several cameras, and only the dSLR with a seriously fast exposure and focus system are up the the challenge (and then, about 1 in five shots is any good). Otherwise, you need to set up a photo and snap at the perfect moment, or worse, get the kids to pose (and you know the fake smiles that come from that!). That these pictures are indoor means light is a challenge. So pretty much anything small will be a little less than perfect, I think.
All cameras need to focus and set exposure before they can take the picture. I bought a Canon G6 as a smaller camera than my Canon 10D dSLR, and it was supposed to be "great" at this. But compared to the 10D (and the Canon lenses), the G6 is terrible. That was a couple years ago, but by today's standards, the G6 is huge. I haven't seen the G7 yet - maybe it's better. And really all compact and point-and-shoot cameras suffer from taking a "long" time to focus and set exposure (even if that's only 1/2 second) and it gets worse in low light. So I think this is the real challenge.
I think you're right to go for image stabilization, and I think a good zoom, which will allow you to get away from the subject.
When you are further away, you have a little more maneuverability, so can track the subject (sounds like we're hunting deer, or something, no?) and lock in for the kill... er ... shot ... er photo at the right moment.
An important trick is that all cameras can do focus and exposure in a first phase (shutter button half-way down) and the picture as the other and much faster phase. Even with your current camera, getting the knack of this can make a huge difference.
Red-eye happens because the camera flash is very close to the lens: eyes of people (and especially animals) are shiny, and reflect the light of the flash back at you, so if the lens and flash are an inch apart, the eyes act like a mirror shining right back. Compact cameras and flash all cause red-eye. "Red eye reduction" features work by sending a burst of flash at the subject's eyes which (in theory) causes the pupil to contract making the mirror of the eye smaller. In practice, it makes taking the photo take even longer, and doesn't really work anyway. Pro photographers who have to use flash have flash units that are separated a long way from the lens (a foot or two, or more). One big advantage of the larger cameras is when they have a pop-up flash -- even a few extra inches can make a difference. Another technique is to hold your finger or something up away from the camera, which draws the subjects' eyes to look there, instead of right into the lens or flash. The best solution for red-eye is: no flash!
But zoom, again, can help on this score. If you are away from the subject (and your camera's flash is strong enough) the subject really has to be looking right at the lens to get red-eye. But compact cameras usually don't have very strong flashes -- cameras like the Canon S2 or S3 both have decently powerful flashes that smaller cameras may not. Since camera makers know this, you might assume that at a camera's maximum zoom range, the flash is going to be a little weak, but if you have a 10x zoom and are only using 5x, you should be in good shape. The best way to deal with red-eye, is to not have to use flash at all, although this may not be practical.
As to "noise", this is the presence of pixels that are the wrong color and lightness, e,g, a bright red pixel in a black background. When you have enough of these pixels, it can make an image look lousy. Image noise gets worse as ISO in increases, so one might think that cameras with higher maximum ISO settings are less likely to have noise at any one setting -- wouldn't you think a camera that can go to ISO 3200 would be better than one that can only go to 800? But the proof is in the pudding, and it's really only after the cameras are tested that you find out who has the real highest ISO. The Canon cameras tend to have low noise at high ISO. I would be sceptical of any ISO greater than 800 in all but the best camera -- noise may be better than no picture at all, but the noise in a lower-end camera claiming to go to ISO 3200 is probably going to produce a bad result. And the camera that will automatically set to a higher ISO (auto-ISO) as needed to deal with low light, are a good thing as long as that high ISO isn't higher than the camera can do well. I suspect this is what people are seeing in the Panasonics you mention.
So I would wait to see what people say about the G7 -- if it is comparable to the G6, it's still a reasonably big camera, about the same size as the S3 (but without the zoom and IS). This line is aimed more at people who wanted an SLR but couldn't afford one. Now the SLRs are cheaper, so hopefully the G7 is a completely new design that competes with some of the better non-SLR high-end cameras.
I would have to say on the inexpensive and small end that the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be a good bet for you. It's small, but it will probably be slow. The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) comes from a long line of pretty good cameras so is probably a good bet -- the A700 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is getting good reviews and seems like it's probably the same camera just without the IS. The SD800 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) doesn't have the 6x zoom, so I would go with the A710. The Kodak V610 also looks like a good bet ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Thanks for other tips and info. Much appreciated. For some reason, there seems to be no happy medium on my coolpix. The photos are dark and blurry or the fill flash makes the faces all washed out of detail and bad bad redeye. My kids are blond, blue eyed and fair - so we get lots of red eyes here.
So.........I'm looking forward to giving a try to a new one!
You'll get a better deal online!
Thanks again. Happy shooting....
Having had a couple babies of my own, I can say you want something small and easy to use. With one hand. While running. :-)
Megapixels are overrated once you have 5 or more, if you ask me. Zoom is really, really nice to have, but costs a little more. The idea of EasyShare was to make a camera that actual humans can use easily; many people like them. Another thing we like is the little movie clips.
One inexpensive camera that might suit the requirement is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... C533</a>. This one has a "standard" 3x zoom, and a small LCD screen. Also, while it does capture movies, you can't hear the sound from the camera itself.
Another to consider is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... V610</a> which is a little more expensive but has a great 10x zoom. Zoom is great because you can really get in tight on the subject. Another similar cameras is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... TZ1</a>, also with a great zoom.
Good luck!
If you did want to look at an ultracompact, the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) has 10x in a really astoundingly small body.
You might also want to consider the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) a really light, stylish camera with 10x optical zoom.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
There are a few neat ultracompact / extended zoom cameras, like the Pansaonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which each have 10x zoom in fantastically tiny bodies.
The Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also has a very nice 6x optical zoom in a small point-and-shoot style body.
The V610 also has a lot of neat extra features on it, but if you want simple ultracompact zoom, go for the TZ1.
Hope this helps!
Alternatively, I'm too stupid to see the switch.
Andrew
You can see a variety of prices for the Kodak EasyShare V603 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) along the right side of the product information page ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Kodak offers a variety of cameras ( kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier... ) in the same series of cameras to include two that have a few more options than this one: the Kodak EasyShare V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Kodak EasyShare V705 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Andrew
So, it isn't that it doesn't take good pictures, it's just that it's cousin, the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), just caught the editor's eye. However, notice that the 875 rates higher. It's easy to use, and delivers much of the power of an SLR with none of the manual duties. Just click and go.
If you're looking at it, I dont' think you'll be disappointed. Most of Kodak's cameras rate pretty high marks.
The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... might be a good one for you to check out. It has a smaller zoom (5x rather than the 12x of the other two) and no image stabilization, but does have a higher pixel count and gets really good reviews.
The two that you mentioned are pretty similar in terms of features (except for a few things, like the pixel count); however they perform differently. The P850 is slower but is supposed to have less noise in the pictures, especially in low light. The P712 is faster and seems to have a better movie mode. So... it is probably up to you depending on your priorities.
Really, if you love Kodak, either of these cameras should perform well for you and be what you need. If they were wildly different it would matter, but as is I would just pick the one that sounds right.
Regardless, and allow me to note here that this camera is 7 years old and has been discontinued by Kodak, even for support. If I may, the amount of money it would take to repair would render it not really worth it since much newer models have great MP capacity and higher resolution.
I would suggest taking any money you would spend on repairs and picking up a much newer model. ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) Like the Kodak EasyShare C743 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) perhaps?
Canon also makes some great new point and shoots ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which would replace that model quite nicely.
Regards
Although the Nikon P1 doesn't, it does have Wireless capability via an 802.11b and 802.11g connection for either direct to PC or direct to printer.
Listed amoungst them are the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Kodak V705 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), they have bluetooth capabilty.
Sadly, both have lcd screens under 3".
The Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) excellent zoom and advanced picture quality.
The Panasonic Lz3 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which has amazing features for an affordable price.
and The Kodak v610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which truely is FULLY LOADED.
(guitar solo)
This camera will run you $287 on WildDigital.com. If you click the link here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), prices will be displayed along the right side of the new page. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
-ultra compact
-great in low light
-decent zoom
-artsy features (sepia, negative, b+w, etc)
this will mostly be used at concerts and low light places. needs to fit easily in a pocket.
The Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) might be more up yout alley if you really want the 10x optical zoom. High quality as well. I would suggest you read the user reviews for each othe these cameras to narrow your decision down.
good luck
For this, I would recomend something with a high ISO (1200+), and high megapixels. Sonys and Canons usually have the market cornered in this area.
Most cameras come equiped with both optical zoom and digital zoom. Optical zoom won't distort your pictures in any way. Digital zoom, however, digitally crops the image in the center and enlarges it causing the subject to appear closer. The reason I recommend high megapixels is because if you have high resolution to begin with, you have the ability to use your digital zoom without distorting the image.
The Sony W100 has 8 mega pixels and an ISO of about 1200. The Canon SD900 has 10 megapixels and an ISO of 1600. Both are really compact. Obviously I would recomend the Canon over the Sony, but it really depends on how much you want to spend. The Canon will cost about $499, and the Sony $299, which is a significant price difference.
As far as artsy abilities, I would recomend using software such as Adobe Photoshop after the photograph is taken. This way you can have a color copy in addition to greyscale, sepia, and etc. Otherwise, you will be stuck with a sepia picture and never be able to get the same photo in color.
I noticed you haven't marked a Best Answer... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
Depending on how big your purse is, you'll want a ultra-compact ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or a point and shoot ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) camera. The smaller camera will fit that much better, so I'll go down that route. There is a camera with 10x optical zoom, which is phenominal for a compact digital camera: the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It comes from an established company, 6 megapixels, a movie mode, and an ISO range of 64-800, which makes it a decent performer in low light situations. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Yes it is probably time for a new one. Check out all the ultra compact ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) camera on the market. Most are also basically point and shoot cameras in terms of there speed and ease of use.
I don't know which one is better thought, the Panasonic got image stabilization and optics starts of at 28mm, but the Fuji takes better and more crisp photos due to a better CCD, it have awesome batterylife, better flash and better LCD.
Most reviews seem to indicate that the v610 is a pretty speedy little gadget. CNET's review ( reviews.cnet.com/Kodak_Easy... ), for example, said:
"A very short, class-leading shutter lag of 0.2 second in high-contrast light seems to be the performance highlight for the Kodak EasyShare V610. That drops to a less impressive 1 second under low-contrast light. Time to first shot runs just 1.3 seconds, while the shot-to-shot time clocks in at a decent 1.8 seconds regardless of flash. The V610 also captures up to 8 frames at about 2.2 frames per second (fps) in both 6- and 1.1-megapixel modes. As with the V570, the screen does not black out between shots in burst mode, which can be useful for panning bursts."
Hope this helps!
and distance pictures. Looking at V610 for size or P712 for optical zoom
want an easy camera that takes great pics any help would be great
Both of the cameras you've mentioned have big plusses. The V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is really, really tiny and has a huge zoom range. It's definitely got a wow-factor, too--very sleek and cool looking. The P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is more SLR-like. It's bigger and bulkier than your Z740 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), but there's a reason for that: it's got an awesome 12x stabilized zoom lens and a whole mess of manual controls that you won't find on the V610. It's also going to perform a lot quicker than the V610, which sacrifices a lot of speed in exchange for packing such a powerful and tiny lens. Additionally, the V610 is plagued by terrible battery life.
Personally, I'd opt for the larger but more feature-packed P712, but if you value an extremely small camera, you probably won't do much better than the V610 (unless you go for the newer V705 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's really a question of which size and set of options fits you best. Do you want to have full control over your shooting, or do you just want to snap and go? Do you mind carrying a camera bag, or do you want to slip it into your jeans pocket? For me, size doesn't matter that much--I'd rather have the extra options. For you, it might be different. Good luck!
Thank you - I will check out the V705 and I do still keep going back to
the P712 it's the size of the V610 that I liked but I'd rather have
better pics and stabilized zoom. thank you so much for your help.
i am also planning on buying the kodak V610. because of the pros (great looks,10x zoom,even while taking videos unlike many other cameras, and it has 6 megapexels)
so its up to you to decide.
The Kodak V705, V610, and V570 all feature a unique-to-Kodak dual lens construction with a 23mm wide angle lens and a longer zoom lens.
The V705 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 7.3MP camera with a 5x optical zoom.
The V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 6MP camera with a 10x optical zoom.
The V570 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 5MP camera with a 3x optical zoom.
Hope this helps!
I'm sorry, I messed up. Of the cameras I listed, only the V705 has a 23mm wide angle. I got confused and thought that all of the dual-lens models featured the wide angle lens. Apologies!
I can't think of any other super compact cameras with a 24mm or wider lens, but there are several 28mm models. The Canon SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, has a 28mm wide angle with a 3.8x zoom, and also features optical image stabilization. Something to consider...
If you want widescreen movies, the Lumix LX2's movie mode takes full advantage of the 16:9 format with a higher-than-average movie resolution of 848 x 480 pixels at 30 frames per second with sound. It can also record with VGA (640 x 480) resolution at 4:3 (std TV), The wide screen is not âhigh definition".
The camera can easily be adjusted between 16:9, 3:2, and 4:3 settings. When shooting at 16:9 the camera uses all 10mp. When you flip to 3:2, resolution drops to 8.5 megapixels, at 4:3 it goes to 7.5 megapixels. Remember the camera uses the widest sections of the 16:9 10mp and crop shots for 3:2 and 4:3.
On-line price $400.
Another option is the Canon SD800. Image stabilization, 7.1mp and 3.8x lens (28 â 105mm) Another wide angle and besides itâs a Canon. Great in low light and will take movies with sound. Picture quality is GREAT. On-line price under $375
You can not go wrong with either. I am a Canon fan but for your use I recommend the LX2.
Happy movie and picture taking.
For a wide angle at 28mm I have already one model in mind: Olympus FE-200. Its 5x optical zoom is from 28-140mm, longer than both Canon SD800 IS and Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2. It has almost all the good features such as IS and movies, and it costs substantialy less ($175 at J&R). The only downsides are: 1. It uses xD cards which cost more and not interchangeable with other more common memory cards; 2. It is slow according to some reviews. Any other reasons that I should not buy Olympus FE-200?
Since panoramic pictures created using the stitch function aren't of any set format in terms of size (and ratio of height to width), it would be difficult for a photo lab to print them. Those places are set up to print specific aspect ratio pictures. The only solution here, I'm afraid is to buy a photo printer and do it yourself. Luckily, there are plenty of cheap, very good printers on the market these days.
Good luck!
The only camera I can think of that comes close to matching the R4's feature set is the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), but it is different in several key respects. To begin with, its max wide angle is 35mm, compared to the R4's 28mm. This means it will not be able to capture landscapes/crowd shots in quite the same way. Second, it has 1MP less of resolution (5MP to the R4's 6MP), but this won't make much of a difference except when printing poster-sized images (and how often do you do that?). It does, however, have a 10x optical zoom, which is quite a bit longer than the R4's 7x. To fit that 10x lens, the body is a bit bigger than the R4's, but it's still a very small camera. You can see a direct comparison of the cameras' vital stats here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ).
Hope this helps!
I haven't been able to find much information on the R6, and obviously I've never used one, so I'd have a little trouble comparing it to the TZ1 or any other camera. Have you been able to find a spec sheet for it?
I think that perhaps we're limiting you to too few choices here, though. How much zoom do you actually think you need? Do you need all 7x of the optical zoom, or would you be ok with 3x or 5x? Similarly, how many megapixels do you actually need? Are you going to be making a lot of big prints, or are you mainly going to be manipulating/displaying your photos on the computer? If we expand your search a bit, there are very many very good cameras waiting out there.
Agreed I did not explain my needs. What I need is a fast, compact, wide(28mm) lenced camera with at least 7x optical zoom with a minimum of 6 meg pics. I mainly use the computer but do have the need to print a series of photo's to make landscape frames etc.
The caplio R4 worked for me as it was fast wide lenced and pick quality not bad. The use of a camera in my work has become a big thing and i still need a lot of experience before i will be able to make the right choice with camera's. It will be great if I could use your experience to help with this
It seems to me that you're probably best sticking with the Ricohs, particularly if you liked your R4 for the short time you had it. With the R6 coming out soon, the R5s will probably be dropping in price and it might be a good time to pick one up. Sorry I couldn't offer more suggestions, but the field of high zoom, wide angle ultracompacts is pretty slim.
Good luck!
good luck 007
It's by no means a small camera and the lens isn't fast at all.
The Kodak isn't much better.
Don't get me wrong - both cameras are fine but they don't meet the 'fastest lens' and 'longest zoom' requirement.
Perhaps it would be easier to see which compact cameras have the fastest lens?
I think the Olympus 5050 (discontinued but still available online) with f1.8 lens is the fastest digital compact ever?
I managed to get a brand new unit last week and it's great.
The zoom is 3x, I think - 35 to 105.
The earlier Canon Powershots were also great.
The G5 has, I think a 4x zoom and starts at f\2 at 35mm. (It drops to f\3 at 140mm.)
Both cameras aren't small. Neither do they have ultra zooms.
If you want a super zoom, maybe get the Canon 3Si.
35mm - 420mm. Around f3.5, I think.
Hope this helps.
The smallest cameras you'll find with a huge zoom are the Panasonic TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Kodak V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Nikon S10 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The problem here is that the smaller you make the cameras, the harder it is to make their big zooms function well. The smallest of these, the V610, is also the worst-rated, and that's no coincidence. Smaller cameras have slower zooms, a harder time focusing when zoomed in, and tend to have much more shutter lag. All three of these cameras get bad marks from pro reviewers like dpreview.com for their shutter lag and slow/poor-focusing zooms. This is exactly the kind of problem you don't want when you're trying to shoot animals in motion on safari.
I think that you'd be much better served by choosing a slightly larger camera with better performance. If you'd like further assistance selecting a larger, better camera, please don't hesitate to let me know.
Good luck!
The cameras I listed above all feature 10x optical zooms. Strangely, the cameras of the next level up in size tend to be 6x zooms. Of these, there are several very good options available. The best of these is the Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has a 6x optical zoom with a very good image stabilization system (compensates for shakiness in your hands) and a nice 2.5" LCD. It's got a very good 7.1MP sensor, too, so you'll have plenty of room for cropping if need be. Most importantly, it's a very quick performer. It's quick to focus and quick to shoot. The A710 IS is probably the best compromise between size and power.
Larger compact digitals like the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) offer 12x stabilized zooms and very quick operation, but they cost quite a bit more and are much heavier and larger.
Hope this helps a bit.
There aren't really different "kinds" of macros. Macro is simply a term used to signify close-up photography as a whole.
There are many models of camera that offer very good macro capability. The most impressive that I've seen are Canon's S2 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which include a "Super Macro" mode that allows them to focus on subjects that are actually touching the glass of the lens. You can't really get any better than that.
Are there any other considerations you have in making your choice? Do you care if it's a bulkier camera? What's your price range? Do you plan to do any manual shooting, or will it all be in automatic mode? If I have a slightly better idea of what you're looking for I can help you better.
Good luck!
Could you be more specific than "not very expensive"? What's your upper limit in terms of dollars? I'd like to recommend something that will be the best camera for your money.
Thanks!
That's the best recommendation I've got, and to be honest it's probably the best camera bar none in the $250 range (check out those glowing user reviews!).
Good luck!
Judi
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Be aware that for indoor shots of small close things like jewelry, you will have to tweak the flash settings and you may experience a shadow on your subject from the projection of the lens apparatus. The way to avoid this is to take the shots in natural light outdoors or indoors with an alternate light source aimed at the object. You will also have to make some adjustments due to glare from that other light. Since you will be so close, you may have to take several shots to get just the right combination of light, angle, shadow, reflection, etc. The emerald necklace was not taken in any kind of setting as described above - it was sitting on a piece of paper on my desk with my goose neck lamp shining in it. So don't judge by the lighting. Do judge by the detail. It was taken about 1" away.
The bees are on flowers about 1.5 inches across, and the lens is practically touching them - the bees that is. (Luckily I am not allergic like my mom!) I really like how you can see the pollen on their backs and legs and head! Also I like how you can see the detail inside the small center part of the flower, including the pollen on the stamens, and the wings are in perfect focus and you can clearly see through them, and you can see their veins!
The little larva on my strawberry has two transparent membranes, one smooth on the outside and one undulating on the inside. You can see his posterior projections and the freckles on his back!
Watch out! I have already recommended this camera to three people and they have all bought them!
And I can now add to my recommendation that so far 3 of my Canon photos have been selected for publication in two different amateur photo books, and one publisher has requested another submission. The one I posted with the bee on the right side will be in "Endless Journeys", which also contains another A630 shot (Dashing Donor) and one from my Minolta DiMage G500 (Mists of Mokule`ia).
I am beginning to be a pain amongst my friends because I am always shooting, but you never know when that perfect moment might present itself!
Happy shooting to all,
Lisa
Hope this helps.
.3 seconds is actually pretty good in terms of shutter lag time on digital cameras nowadays. DSLRs have the lag time down to fractions of a second- some are really, ridiculously fast, but they do still have a lag. Point and shoot digitals are typically slower, half a second to a second lag time (and longer still when flash is on, etc.)
Basically, there is a delay with digitals due to the fact that the camera has more to do than a film SLR does during the time when you push the shutter button. The file has to be saved and written in order to create the digital image. Shooting extremely fast sports etc. with a digital may require you to do a little adjusting to how you shoot... you might have to learn to rethink your idea of timing in order to accommodate that delay. Also, pushing the shutter button halfway and allowing the shot to frame itself, then pushing the rest of the way when you're actually ready to take the photo, is a good way to speed up a camera with a lengthy lag time.
Technology is always advancing and camera manufacturers are making DSLRs faster and faster, but there is likely always going to be some sort of delay with a digital, however small it is. It's part of the game when shooting digital.
But allow me to make an pitch for using several smaller cards, rather than one large one. Reason being, insurance. Any memory card can fail or become corrupted. And when you're on vacation the last thing you want is to lose the opportunity to take pictures until you can recover that media card with a software utility. If your card goes bad, swapping another one for it at that moment is of advantage so you can keep taking pics. Then, later when you're in front of your PC, you can use a utility like F-recover to get back your pictures and recover your card.
I'm currently using a transcend 2gb 150x and so far it's been working great, but i'd like to get a 4 gb one for recording movies.
Thanks
Course, you can own multiple 2GB or 4GB, prices may or may not prohibit that.
Kodak's early digital cameras accepted CF (COMPACTFLASH) Cards. Later models accepted SD (Secure Digital) and MMC (MULTIMEDIA) Cards. When SD cards reached their limit of 2 GB, the industry developed SDHC (Secure Digital High Capacity) Cards, which have much greater capacities.
KODAK Pocket Video Cameras accept SD and SDHC Cards.
2007 and newer C-, M-, V-, and Z-series cameras accept SD and SDHC Cards. Exceptions:
*
V803 and V1003 Zoom Digital Cameras accept only SD (not SDHC) cards.
*
CD43 Zoom Digital Camera accepts only xD (not SD or SDHC) cards.
CX-series cameras accept SD and MMC Cards.
DC-series cameras accept CF Cards.
DX-series cameras accept SD and MMC Cards. Exceptions: DX3500, DX3600, and DX4900 Cameras accept only CF Cards.
LS-series cameras accept SD and MMC Cards. Exception: LS755 Zoom Digital Cameras accepts only xD Cards.
For other cameras, see your product's user manuals.
SD/SDHC Card Sizes
We recommend KODAK SD Cards (up to 2 GB) and KODAK SDHC Cards (up to 8 GB).
NOTE: Because we do not test our products with other manufacturers' cards, we cannot recommend other cards and sizes.
Card Speed
Cards fall into speed classes 1-6. A higher number indicates a faster read/write speed. (Find the card speed on the product packaging, specifications, or on the card itself.)
NOTE: When recording/playing HD video, we recommend the fastest possible card. Class 6 cards are the fastest currently available.
The V610 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is generally pretty well-rated by users, while pro reviews are a bit shakier (see the conclusion to dpreview.com's in-depth review of the camera here ( dpreview.com/reviews/kodakv... )). You can probably put this down to users being satisfied with adequate performance and great ease of use, while pro reviewers have stricter standards. dpreview's concluding paragraph is a good description of the camera's pros and cons:
"The V610 is a beautifully designed camera that has instant appeal (everyone here loved it when it came out of the box), and the innovative twin lens/CCD system is a clever solution to the limitations of lens size that keeps most ultra compact cameras firmly in the 3x zoom range. As it stands, I'd say this; if you want a really compact camera that performs superbly in all conditions, forget about the 10x zoom; if you really want a big zoom in a compact package, look at the (cheaper and more capable, though bulkier) Panasonic TZ1. If you've fallen for the V610's good looks, you really, really need something this slim and don't find the issues mentioned here too much of a compromise I'm sure you'll love it. Me, I'd wait for the V610's successor, which will hopefully see Kodak iron out some of this promising but flawed camera's more annoying problems."
As to why stores have stopped stocking it... I'm not sure that they have. Most internet stores still have it in stock. Big box retail stores might have stopped selling it, but they generally have much smaller selections, and this means that their turnover rate in models is higher. Regardless, you should be able to find one with little trouble.
Hope this helps!
I like the 10X optical zoom...but the flash range is good for a 4-5 feet, or basically just have the ability for the snapshot...and if you zoom further it will be somewhat underexposed....
I like the Bluetooth option for the wireless printing on a Bluetooth enabled printer, like their Printer Dock Plus Series 3 or their Photo Printer 500...
I've taken gorgeously clear photos with a 3.2MP camera for years, and printed them at 8x10" with no problem. This camera should be just fine for what you want to do.
Andrew
In burst mode, it should captures up to 8 frames at about 2.2 frames per second (fps).
You can try using fresh, high power batteries like from Varta or Kodaks hienergy Alkalines. That may help. I'd also hit the camera reset. Perhaps there's a corrupted setting that will be cleared out if you do.
Larry
Then, go to Kodak's website ( kodak.com/global/en/service... ) and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
I'd also make sure you're prefocusing and panning with the action while shooting. It may be that you're suffering from camera shake due to shutter lag. You push the shutter, it may take anywhere from 0.235 - 0.703 sec for the camera to take the picture. Add that to the actual shutter time in low light conditions and you have quite a long time to wait. You move during that time and you have a blurry image.
Don't forget the firmware update. There may be one that addresses the issue.
My camera was purchased in June of 2006, well over a year ago, so I don't think its still covered by any warranty. I'm getting the sense that this is a fluke with my processor and hardware.
If you want to look at cameras to purchase, I would suggest going to a Ritz or Wolf camera in your area. They will often times let you test the camera out in the store before you purchase something. They do this at MicroCenter as well.
After testing and finding the cameras you like, I would suggest coming back here to DCHQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com ) to look the camera up. We list prices for various cameras available for purchase, and you can see where the best deal is that way. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Andrew
But if you need a repair, undertand that the average cost of a camera repair is around $180. As such, it may cost more to repair than it is really worth. The rule of thumb is that if the estimate for repair is north of 50% what you paid for it, you're better off taking that money and buying a newer and upgraded model.
Another tip is to go to Kodak's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
Lastly, Halo effects may simple mean a dirty or greasy lens element.
Aside from that, I suggest Canon. As for software, try Picasa ( picasa.google.com/ ). It's a much better photo management tool. And it's free!
Thanks
Mark Lewis
Market Realty, Inc.
Message was edited by: Mark Lewis
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I personally like the Kodak models, they're very stylish looking, but the Panasonic FX01 is pretty great too.