Nikon D40
Nikon D40
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Nikon D40
Editor's Review
The Nikon D40 is a superlative budget dSLR, geared toward introducing aspiring professionals and other serious photographers to high-end performance and potential. The 6.1 megapixel sensor is just right for most users, and the D40's small form factor will avoid the annoyance of lugging around a heavy, clunky camera. The affordable D40 is certain to be a smash, and Nikon's dSLR line is only looking better as time passes.
Specifications
- 6.1 megapixel CCD sensor
- Nikon F-Mount Lenses
- JPEG and NEF (RAW) file formats
- Auto and manual focus and exposure
- ISO 200-3200
- 2.5-inch LCD
- Secure Digital storage (SD/SDHC)
- Lithium-ion battery
- Part Number: SLR1176
- UPC: 410100251750
- Release Date: Jan 01, 2007
Shop for D40 Accessories
Nikon D40 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
LUCKY (12/02/2012)
I don't know what to do my Nikon D40 do reject battery
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Chris Weigl (12/02/2012)
Have you tried a different battery?
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Dennis Van Haitsma (06/02/2011)
I have a picture on my playback screen that I cannot zoom in on???? All the other pictures I've taken will allow me to do so. On the display screen it says "Cannot zoom in on the picture" and of course it's the one I really want to be able to do so... it seems locked. Can anyone help?
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is my nikon d40 has defect? (ricky — 02/19/2011)
hi there, i just bought a nikon d40 camera from a friend. i am honestly no knowledge about this camera. my friend said the camera is in pristine condition. but when takings shot, i find it hard to adjust the settings that's why all my photos were mixed good and bad pictures. its my 2 days holding this, i take shots but many of them has pinkish and whitish results. in the upper part of the photo there is a wide white space. some times when i adjust it to ISO 1600, all around is white. when fixed at ISO 200, still there is white space. i don't know what to do. is my sensor defective?
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by James DeRuvo (03/01/2011)
Sounds like defective pixels. Nikon has a knowledge base article about it here - support.nikonusa.com/app/an... happens in low light. Noise reduction may be able to work around it, but if it happens all the time, then a repair may be needed.
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Ramiro Balladares (11/24/2010)
My question is that my Nikon d40 set in Automatic, doesnt autofocus, works fine set in Manually, how ca i get it to work
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настя (04/02/2010)
здравствуйте, у меня небольшая проблемка, мне както нужно удалить, збить, незнаю как назвать все настройки, хочу чтобы все настройки стандартные были, а то муж намутил терь выдержка по 30сек вобщем меня это напрягает, как от этого мона избавиться?
заранее благодарю
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заранее благодарю
by James DeRuvo (04/03/2010)
translation: Nastya - 04/02/2010 at 08:42 AM
Hello, I have a small problem, I get by need to be removed, zbit, I Do not Know how to call all the settings, I want to ensure that all settings were standard, and a husband hast done harm losses is an excerpt from 30s вобщем me is annoying as to get rid of this mono?
thank you in advance
Привет.Русский / английский перевод просто не достаточно подробным, чтобы понять, что ваши конкретные проблемы. Возможно, на первый, самый лучший шаг, хотя это прочитать Вашу камеру руководства. Если у вас нет, вы можете скачать копию PDF от Nikon Россия - nikon.ru/ru_RU/ - Это будет ознакомиться с тем, как камера работает, а также устранения любых основных проблем, которые могут иметь .
Перевод Google Translate.
Hi. The Russian/English translation simply isn't detailed enough to understand what your specific problem is. Probably your first, best step though is to read through your camera manual. If you don't have one, you can download a PDF copy from Nikon Russia - nikon.ru/ru_RU/ - This will familiarize yourself with how the camera works as well as troubleshoot any basic problems you may have.
Translated by Google Translate.
reply to this comment
Hello, I have a small problem, I get by need to be removed, zbit, I Do not Know how to call all the settings, I want to ensure that all settings were standard, and a husband hast done harm losses is an excerpt from 30s вобщем me is annoying as to get rid of this mono?
thank you in advance
Привет.Русский / английский перевод просто не достаточно подробным, чтобы понять, что ваши конкретные проблемы. Возможно, на первый, самый лучший шаг, хотя это прочитать Вашу камеру руководства. Если у вас нет, вы можете скачать копию PDF от Nikon Россия - nikon.ru/ru_RU/ - Это будет ознакомиться с тем, как камера работает, а также устранения любых основных проблем, которые могут иметь .
Перевод Google Translate.
Hi. The Russian/English translation simply isn't detailed enough to understand what your specific problem is. Probably your first, best step though is to read through your camera manual. If you don't have one, you can download a PDF copy from Nikon Russia - nikon.ru/ru_RU/ - This will familiarize yourself with how the camera works as well as troubleshoot any basic problems you may have.
Translated by Google Translate.
Should I update my Panasonic Fz8 to the Fz35 (Paul Lanzo — 03/20/2010)
Hello, I am using a Panasonic Fz8, would there be any advantage updating to the Fz35? Outside of the few changes they made would the quality of the photos be any better or worth spending about $300.00 more for the Fz35. I am not interested in the video mode.
Thank you
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Thank you
by James DeRuvo (03/23/2010)
Look at it this way. If you just shoot snapshots, then there won't be much in the way of quality improvement going from the 7.2 MP of the FZ8 and the 12MP of the Fz35. You just won't see the differences any more than you'd notice the difference from a VW and a Porche at 25 mph. But when you get to sizes of 8x10 and above, you'll start seeing that extra MP. Thing is though, that you'll also see more noise at higher ISO. So only you can decide if it's worth the extra $300. Frankly, I don't think so.
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Paul Lanzo (03/23/2010)
Thank you very much for your thoughts comparing the Panasonic Fz8 to the Fz35. I kind of thought the quality would be about the same as the Fz35.
I read the stablization on the Fz35 is suppose to be twice as stable compaired to the Fz8. I use this Fz8 only when I don't feel like hauling around a heavy bag of lenses, and just having fun taking pictures.
Thank you again,
Paulie
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I read the stablization on the Fz35 is suppose to be twice as stable compaired to the Fz8. I use this Fz8 only when I don't feel like hauling around a heavy bag of lenses, and just having fun taking pictures.
Thank you again,
Paulie
Paul Lanzo (02/09/2010)
How does the Nikon D40 compare with
The Nikon d90? Is it worth the upgrade. I use the camera for my own enjoyment
nothing important.
Thank you
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The Nikon d90? Is it worth the upgrade. I use the camera for my own enjoyment
nothing important.
Thank you
by James DeRuvo (02/12/2010)
I guess it depends on your usage. The D90 not only shoots digital still images, but also HD video. Couple that with it's obvious MP boost, and it may be attractive.
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How do I set my camera where the date will appear on my pictures?/ (Crystal — 02/03/2010)
I have a Nikon D40 camerad and can not figure out how to make the date appear on my pictures for when I develope them... Any tips????
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by James DeRuvo (02/09/2010)
Most cameras don't really have date on the images anymore, especially DSLRs. But if you have a PICTBRIDGE compatible printer, it may be able to pick up the date on the EXIF data of the image and print it on your image directly.
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How do I set my camera where the date will appear on my pictures?/ (Crystal — 02/03/2010)
I have a Nikon D40 camerad and can not figure out how to make the date appear on my pictures for when I develope them... Any tips??
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Nikon D40 flash (Janelle Thomas — 02/02/2010)
The automatic flash on my Nikon D40 is all of a sudden not working. I've recharged the battery and checked the settings. I don't know much about photography so perhaps I'm overlooking something? The little question mark is blinking and telling me to use the flash but I can't!! Help.
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Paul Lanzo (03/20/2010)
I also have the Nikon D40. Mine will also flash a ? when there isn't enought light.
I don't know what mode your using but try poping your flash manually, and I think you will be fine. In Auto mode, the flash will automatically flash when more light is required. In other modes you manually press the flash button.
Good luck
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I don't know what mode your using but try poping your flash manually, and I think you will be fine. In Auto mode, the flash will automatically flash when more light is required. In other modes you manually press the flash button.
Good luck
help (Colette Twamley — 01/27/2010)
when the nikon d40 is in sports mode it should shoot continuously, but mine wont do that it just takes one photo?? Can anybody help??
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by James DeRuvo (01/28/2010)
Check in your menu settings, as you probably need to set it for continuous shooting. Also or reset the camera and look to Nikon for a firmware update.
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Colette Twamley (01/28/2010)
thanks James but im only learning and dont know how to do that, my concern is that you should be automatically in continusuos shooting when in this mode
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how do i remove the highlight option in the display? (tilney51 — 12/22/2009)
when I review my photos (especially the ones taken outside) if there is overexposure involved a blinking highlight option appears in the overexposed areas. How do I remove that?
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Brenda Paro (12/23/2009)
This is the histogram, which, you're right, is showing you the overexposed areas. Find the toggle button on back, the one with 'ok' in the center. While looking at your photo, push the toggle button down. This will change your display options. and scroll through the various choices. One of them should be 'no histogram' and it'll go away. When it's gone just let go of the toggle and hit Playback again and it should save it.
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Paulie (01/11/2010)
Hi Patti,
When you get that flashing on a photo just go to the multi selector, and press above the ok button once or twice.
That works for me. Normally the flashing doesn't effect your photograph that much. A circular polarizer can help reduce glare.
reply to this comment
When you get that flashing on a photo just go to the multi selector, and press above the ok button once or twice.
That works for me. Normally the flashing doesn't effect your photograph that much. A circular polarizer can help reduce glare.
What is the best way to remove dust from sensor (Paulie — 10/16/2009)
Hi,
I have a Nikon D40 SLR that has developed a dust problem. I did expose the sensor and tried to remove the dust spots with my blower. I have tried several times but the problem still exsist. Would using a soft brush be taking a big risk. What kind of brush do you recomend. They also use the wet method with a sensor swab. I don't change the lens that offen, in fact I clean around the mounted lens with a soft brush followed by a few puffs with the blower before I remove the lens. The lens I install is also cleaned and I do point the camera body down while I remove the lens and install the other. I have owned the D40 for a year and a half. Can someone give me some advice. I am told to have this procedure done would cost $100.00 to $300.00.
Thank you,
Paulie
reply to this comment
I have a Nikon D40 SLR that has developed a dust problem. I did expose the sensor and tried to remove the dust spots with my blower. I have tried several times but the problem still exsist. Would using a soft brush be taking a big risk. What kind of brush do you recomend. They also use the wet method with a sensor swab. I don't change the lens that offen, in fact I clean around the mounted lens with a soft brush followed by a few puffs with the blower before I remove the lens. The lens I install is also cleaned and I do point the camera body down while I remove the lens and install the other. I have owned the D40 for a year and a half. Can someone give me some advice. I am told to have this procedure done would cost $100.00 to $300.00.
Thank you,
Paulie
by James DeRuvo (10/19/2009)
The worry I have is that you may brick the chip with static electricity. I'd take it in for a professional cleaning. It'd be worth the money to have it done in a clean room.
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Paulie (10/22/2009)
Thank you I think I will do just that.
Paulie
reply to this comment
Paulie
How do you install a reverse ring onto lense (Paulie — 09/23/2009)
Hello,
How do you mount a Nikon 52mm reverse adapter to Nikon D40 camera body and lens. I have a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 and I ordered a 35mm f/1.8 both have 52mm filter threads.
Thank you,
Paulie
reply to this comment
Hello,
How do you mount a Nikon 52mm reverse adapter to Nikon D40 camera body and lens. I have a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 and I ordered a 35mm f/1.8 both have 52mm filter threads.
Thank you,
Paulie
by James DeRuvo (09/25/2009)
The adapter usually screws right in and should have the proper mount att'd. Then you screw it in backwards using the lens filter screw of the front of the lens.
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Paulie (09/25/2009)
Thank you,
I wa nerver notified by email that someone anwsered my question. I just happened to open Digital camera HQ to see if some one had, it's Sept 25, 2009 10:10pm as I write this comment. I also noticed your anwser is dated Sept 25, 2009 9:38pm. I read that my question had been anwsered but I failed to respond or something to that effect. I did check the box that said "Email me with replies to this question.
Again, Thank you
Paulie
reply to this comment
I wa nerver notified by email that someone anwsered my question. I just happened to open Digital camera HQ to see if some one had, it's Sept 25, 2009 10:10pm as I write this comment. I also noticed your anwser is dated Sept 25, 2009 9:38pm. I read that my question had been anwsered but I failed to respond or something to that effect. I did check the box that said "Email me with replies to this question.
Again, Thank you
Paulie
I am using a Tamron Macro 90mm lens, and it will only work on manual, but i can't seem to get it onto it ..HELP!? (Anyaa0 — 09/20/2009)
I am borrowing this Tamron Macro from school to finish my course, and because the D40 does not have the inside motor to work the lens automatically, it needs to be worked through manual, which, in all honesty really does not bother me, I am just having trouble taking it off the auto and using the actual lens with the camera.
If you have any ideas please help! :{
Tamron, AF 90mm 1:2.8, Macro 1:1
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If you have any ideas please help! :{
Tamron, AF 90mm 1:2.8, Macro 1:1
by James DeRuvo (09/24/2009)
What do you mean by having trouble?
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what is the fastest sdhc card for nikon d40x (Royandliz — 09/06/2009)
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by James DeRuvo (09/07/2009)
Class 6. Sandisk calls it the Extreme III.
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Royandliz (09/07/2009)
Thanks James. I bought an Extreme III yesterday and my D40X is steaming ! ! !
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I have the phrase "shooting mode" blinking all the time. (robseda — 08/21/2009)
If I move to a different menu, it still blinks. I dont know how to make it stop.
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by James DeRuvo (08/22/2009)
Try resetting the camera. This could be done in either the menu settings or by removing the camera for a few hours and then putting them back in. This will restore the camera to the default settings.
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i take pictures in a dark club and sometimes it wont take the photo it seems that i cant take them fast like i want to? what do i do? (g964660 — 08/07/2009)
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by James DeRuvo (08/09/2009)
It's a focus issue most likely. Go manual on the focus.
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Brenda Paro (09/02/2009)
Probably what is happening is that due to the dark conditions it is shooting at a very slow shutter speed. And yes, it could also be hunting for focus as James said. The thing to do in terms of the shutter speed would be to break into manual controls. Try shutter priority if you're unsure what you're doing. In shutter priority (listed often as Tv on the dial) you can set the shutter speed you want. Go as low as you can without getting camera shake, say 1/30 of a second. Then the camera will adjust the other settings (ISO, aperture) to compensate for the low light, but it won't change that shutter speed on you.
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flashing white areas on the view screen, why ? (snowwolf — 07/27/2009)
New to digital cameras. This is a new D40. Only happens if there is alot of white or bright areas in the picture. I am a Old SLR K1000 user.
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by James DeRuvo (07/29/2009)
Have you tried a polarizer filter? It'll help cut down on the glare.
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thomas (07/31/2009)
it's some special "play mode" it's highlighting the "bright" areas just like you said.. I think while in play mode you push the arrows either left or right, or up and down to change the play modes.
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my camera is not focusing and goin green, whats wrong with it? (Leanne110 — 07/13/2009)
When i look to take a picture there are 3 squares and when holding the shoot button half way down these should focus on something and go green, mine isnt, i have taken it back to the shop, he said it might be some grit in the lense and will have to send it away for 4 weeks, can someone please help i cant be without my camera for 4 weeks! much appreciated ;-)
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by James DeRuvo (07/15/2009)
From what I have read, you may just have it on the wrong settings. First, reset the camera. Second, make sure you're not on manual focus. The red brackets tell you what area in the scene will be in focus. When you see the red brackets and the green dot your good to shoot. AFS - single subject, non moving auto focus can also cause it to work like this. Try re-reading your manual on the differences of auto focus modes.
Also, check out Ken Rockwell's treatise ( kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u... ) on D40 operation.
Lastly, update the firmware if available.
If all that doesn't help, then perhaps repair is indeed needed.
reply to this comment
Also, check out Ken Rockwell's treatise ( kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u... ) on D40 operation.
Lastly, update the firmware if available.
If all that doesn't help, then perhaps repair is indeed needed.
Once I take a picture and zoom on the display screen, how do I save that zoomed picture so that I can then download it? (mvthomas914 — 06/28/2009)
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by James DeRuvo (06/29/2009)
You can't, really. Unless the D40 has a crop feature (and I don't think it does) - which would allow you to crop it a little and save it. But you're far better off using software to do this as it gives you greater control. I like Adobe Photoshop Elements (best $60 you'll spend), but Google's Picasa is a great open source choice and it's free!
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why are pictures coming out dark on nikon d40 nomatter what light condition or flash (mghoke — 06/22/2009)
was taking pics fine and then they started to show up dark. Went through the book and now have a blueish backround on lcd screen
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by James DeRuvo (06/25/2009)
Try resetting the camera. You may have inadvertently messed with the white balance and now it's all out of whack.
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How do I take pictures at the beach on a sunny day with my Nikon D40? (etadams1 — 06/08/2009)
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Brenda Paro (06/08/2009)
There are a number of ways to do it, depending on things like the angle of the light, time of day, and the color of the scenery/ what you're shooting, as well as the effect you want. If you want the waves to be frozen, for example, you'll want a faster shutter speed; if you want a blurred wave look, you'll want a slower one. If it's sunset, your settings will be quite different than they will be during broad day. My best advice is to pop the camera into Manual mode and set the metering to 3D color matrix (this takes light readings from various areas of the frame rather than just one spot, and is a great idea in contrasty scenes like on beaches). The rest of it will depend on the factors mentioned above as well as what effect you want. The best way to figure it out is just to experiment with shutter speed and aperture in manual mode until the photo looks good.
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I want to take indoor shots at a barrel race, what lens do I need? I have Nikon D40 digital (deenie63 — 06/02/2009)
I bought a bigger zoom, but the pictures are still fuzzy.....is there a bigger zoom lens I need and what's the cost
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by James DeRuvo (06/03/2009)
The issue so much bigger, but faster. Also, the larger your lens, the more likely you'll need a monopod or tripod to keep it steady. And depending on how far away you are ... but a good 200mm to 300mm zoom and the fastest you can afford will do. Also, prefocus. That's where you push half way down on the shutter button to focus and then wait for the right moment to snap the shot. If hte subject moves out of range, you prefocus again.
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How can i select one among the three focus areas using Nikon D40? (cooldeal — 05/30/2009)
I recently bought a Nikon D40.
Trying to understand how to select one among the three focus areas using Nikon D40?
Many thanks,
SK
reply to this comment
Trying to understand how to select one among the three focus areas using Nikon D40?
Many thanks,
SK
Brenda Paro (05/31/2009)
The D40 is a little different in this case than other cameras: most cameras have a switch or dial on the body to choose focus modes, but the D40 does it on the LCD. First things first, make sure your lens barrel switch is set to A, since if it's on M (manual focus) the focus point settings won't work anyhow. Then press Menu, move to the Pencil icon (the Custom Settings menu). You might have to be in a camera mode like P or M for this menu to be active; it may not be available to you if you're in full Auto.
On the Custom Settings menu move to AF (Area Focus). You should see the options to set the focus area there.
If this DOESN'T work or isn't what you want, let me know. I haven't handled the D40 in awhile so this is done by memory!
reply to this comment
On the Custom Settings menu move to AF (Area Focus). You should see the options to set the focus area there.
If this DOESN'T work or isn't what you want, let me know. I haven't handled the D40 in awhile so this is done by memory!
cooldeal (06/01/2009)
Hi Brenda,
Many thanks for your message. I just followed your advice: menu > pencil icon > AF - area mode > Single Area Mode. I use Multi Selector to select one of the three focus areas.
Thanks for your time.
Best wishes.
SK.
reply to this comment
Many thanks for your message. I just followed your advice: menu > pencil icon > AF - area mode > Single Area Mode. I use Multi Selector to select one of the three focus areas.
Thanks for your time.
Best wishes.
SK.
cooldeal (06/01/2009)
Sorry Brenda I accidentally clicked on the wrong button "Not Answered".
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Brenda Paro (06/01/2009)
No worries! I'm glad it worked for you. You might still be able to mark best answer to close it out, if not someone will eventually come along and take care of it. :) The important thing is you found the camera setting!
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I keep getting a "low resolution" message when trying to upload pictures to print. (teachermom1 — 05/22/2009)
I have a relatively new Nikon D40, and I didn't get this "low resolution" message before I tried to take the camera off of Auto-EVERYTHING. Since I did that, all of my prints are blurry, although the images on the camera and my computer are beautiful. Currently, the Print Quality is set to FINE and the Print Size is set to LARGE. As you can tell, I'm brand-new to photography. Any help would be appreciated!
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by James DeRuvo (05/23/2009)
I believe somehow you managed to change the resolution to it's lowest setting. Try resetting the camera back to it's default settings. It should be in the menu settings.
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Kristi (08/20/2009)
I have the same problem! Did resetting the default help? I can't imagine how I changed it....but anything is possible. If there are any other suggestions, please let me know. Very disappointed in some printed photos...
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I'd like to view my subject throu the camera monitor before shoting (pointmere — 05/22/2009)
I need any steps to set up my nikon d40 to view a subject through the monitor
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by James DeRuvo (05/23/2009)
Unfortunately, no. It doesn't.
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Paulie (10/08/2009)
View and compose your photo through the view finder. After the photo is taken is the only time you can view that same photo on your LCD screen. The feature you are looking for would be found with point and shoot digital cameras. Some of the newer SLR digital cameras now have the feature you are looking for.
Personally, I prefer using the view finder because holding your camera with your arms out in front of you can cause you to be unsteady, especially with a larger lens causing camera shake and a blurry picture. I prefer bringing the camera up to my eye cradling the camera with my left hand and elbows close to my body to avoid camera shake.
Paulie
reply to this comment
Personally, I prefer using the view finder because holding your camera with your arms out in front of you can cause you to be unsteady, especially with a larger lens causing camera shake and a blurry picture. I prefer bringing the camera up to my eye cradling the camera with my left hand and elbows close to my body to avoid camera shake.
Paulie
How do I get rid of the menu on the live view when I take a picture. it just started doing this. (BASKETS4 — 05/14/2009)
When I take a picture the live view will come up with a menu on it. I can not see the picture I have just taken. This just started happening and I do not know how to clear it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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by James DeRuvo (05/14/2009)
Resetting the camera is the fastest and easiest way to do it. Look in the menu settings for reset. It will reset to the factory default settings.
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BASKETS4 (05/15/2009)
I thought I had done that, but will go back and redo it. Thanks for the info.
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How do I switch my d40 to auto focus mode? (ivarsorensen — 04/22/2009)
I have bought a TAMRON AF 28-300 F3.5-6.3 XR Di LD (IF) MACRO, but I can't find out how to make the auto focus work. When I change to my old Nikkor 18-55 the auto focus functions all right.
reply to this comment
bukit97 (04/22/2009)
Nikon D40 is slightly different in having auto-focus motor built into the lens itself.
If you want autofocus to work on D40, the Tamron lens needs to have a built in motor.
Apparently only 3 lenses built by Tamron come with built in motor, and the one you bought is not in the list.
See <a href="photolectic.com/news/lenses... this site </a> for further information.
reply to this comment
If you want autofocus to work on D40, the Tamron lens needs to have a built in motor.
Apparently only 3 lenses built by Tamron come with built in motor, and the one you bought is not in the list.
See <a href="photolectic.com/news/lenses... this site </a> for further information.
What settings should I use for an evening shuttle launch? (kel035 — 03/09/2009)
I just bought this camera and don't know much about it yet. I just have the basic lens, nothing special, but I did not know what settings to use to get the best evening photograph.
Thanks!
reply to this comment
Thanks!
by James DeRuvo (03/12/2009)
There's a great page dedicated to shuttle launch photography here ( phototrek.org/Travel/STS-93... ). And although it focuses on film, the settings will still apply:
* use 400 speed ISO
* Remove any lens filters.
* Close the viewfinder of the camera. On luxury cameras there is a lever for this purpose; on cheaper models you usually can take the rubber cover off and slide a plastic thing located on the shoulder strap over the viewfinder. Otherwise, stray light will be getting into the camera "from behind" and your picture will be hosed.
* Set f8 and 1/125 second manual exposure with 400 ISO. If your film speed is different, adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. Don't trust what your light meter says, because it has no idea about the fireworks display that's to come. Ever heard of the "Sunny 16" rule? Use the 1/film-speed time at f16. Well, the shuttle isn't quite as bright as the sun (which would result in a 1/400s on ISO-400 at f16), but it's pretty darn close, esp. from the VIP site. Turn off autofocus! Focus before launch and leave the lens the way it is.
* If your camera can do it, bracket +/- 1 stop, especially if you are using slide film (but as said above, print film is better). Note that most cameras can't "shoot thru bracketing", meaning that if they take three bracketed shots in rapid sequence, they stop and wait for you to release and press the shutter again. Be prepared for this. Practice first (without film).
* Start shooting no earlier than T-3s. They start the engines at T-6s, and with the above exposure values, you absolutely need the glow of the exhaust fumes to illuminate the picture.
reply to this comment
* use 400 speed ISO
* Remove any lens filters.
* Close the viewfinder of the camera. On luxury cameras there is a lever for this purpose; on cheaper models you usually can take the rubber cover off and slide a plastic thing located on the shoulder strap over the viewfinder. Otherwise, stray light will be getting into the camera "from behind" and your picture will be hosed.
* Set f8 and 1/125 second manual exposure with 400 ISO. If your film speed is different, adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. Don't trust what your light meter says, because it has no idea about the fireworks display that's to come. Ever heard of the "Sunny 16" rule? Use the 1/film-speed time at f16. Well, the shuttle isn't quite as bright as the sun (which would result in a 1/400s on ISO-400 at f16), but it's pretty darn close, esp. from the VIP site. Turn off autofocus! Focus before launch and leave the lens the way it is.
* If your camera can do it, bracket +/- 1 stop, especially if you are using slide film (but as said above, print film is better). Note that most cameras can't "shoot thru bracketing", meaning that if they take three bracketed shots in rapid sequence, they stop and wait for you to release and press the shutter again. Be prepared for this. Practice first (without film).
* Start shooting no earlier than T-3s. They start the engines at T-6s, and with the above exposure values, you absolutely need the glow of the exhaust fumes to illuminate the picture.
What settings should I use for an evening shuttle launch? (kel035 — 03/09/2009)
I just bought this camera and don't know much about it yet. I just have the basic lens, nothing special, but I did not know what settings to use to get the best evening photograph.
Thanks!
reply to this comment
Thanks!
by James DeRuvo (03/12/2009)
There's a great page dedicated to shuttle launch photography here ( phototrek.org/Travel/STS-93... ). And although it focuses on film, the settings will still apply:
* use 400 speed ISO
* Remove any lens filters.
* Close the viewfinder of the camera. On luxury cameras there is a lever for this purpose; on cheaper models you usually can take the rubber cover off and slide a plastic thing located on the shoulder strap over the viewfinder. Otherwise, stray light will be getting into the camera "from behind" and your picture will be hosed.
* Set f8 and 1/125 second manual exposure with 400 ISO. If your film speed is different, adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. Don't trust what your light meter says, because it has no idea about the fireworks display that's to come. Ever heard of the "Sunny 16" rule? Use the 1/film-speed time at f16. Well, the shuttle isn't quite as bright as the sun (which would result in a 1/400s on ISO-400 at f16), but it's pretty darn close, esp. from the VIP site. Turn off autofocus! Focus before launch and leave the lens the way it is.
* If your camera can do it, bracket +/- 1 stop, especially if you are using slide film (but as said above, print film is better). Note that most cameras can't "shoot thru bracketing", meaning that if they take three bracketed shots in rapid sequence, they stop and wait for you to release and press the shutter again. Be prepared for this. Practice first (without film).
* Start shooting no earlier than T-3s. They start the engines at T-6s, and with the above exposure values, you absolutely need the glow of the exhaust fumes to illuminate the picture.
reply to this comment
* use 400 speed ISO
* Remove any lens filters.
* Close the viewfinder of the camera. On luxury cameras there is a lever for this purpose; on cheaper models you usually can take the rubber cover off and slide a plastic thing located on the shoulder strap over the viewfinder. Otherwise, stray light will be getting into the camera "from behind" and your picture will be hosed.
* Set f8 and 1/125 second manual exposure with 400 ISO. If your film speed is different, adjust aperture or shutter speed accordingly. Don't trust what your light meter says, because it has no idea about the fireworks display that's to come. Ever heard of the "Sunny 16" rule? Use the 1/film-speed time at f16. Well, the shuttle isn't quite as bright as the sun (which would result in a 1/400s on ISO-400 at f16), but it's pretty darn close, esp. from the VIP site. Turn off autofocus! Focus before launch and leave the lens the way it is.
* If your camera can do it, bracket +/- 1 stop, especially if you are using slide film (but as said above, print film is better). Note that most cameras can't "shoot thru bracketing", meaning that if they take three bracketed shots in rapid sequence, they stop and wait for you to release and press the shutter again. Be prepared for this. Practice first (without film).
* Start shooting no earlier than T-3s. They start the engines at T-6s, and with the above exposure values, you absolutely need the glow of the exhaust fumes to illuminate the picture.
How can I lengthen the time to view my pics on the LCD? (lmbprincess — 03/03/2009)
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (03/03/2009)
Check your menu settings under display. If you can, it'll be in there.
reply to this comment
lmbprincess (03/03/2009)
thanks, but there is no "display" option..tried all menu items
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (03/05/2009)
Then you can't change the time it's viewed after taking the shot. You can, however, hit review manually and look at it longer.
reply to this comment
lmbprincess (03/11/2009)
thanks for trying James!
reply to this comment
Newbie question ~ Can this camera w/what is included take close up pics from say 30 to 50 feet? (Chibi-Kat — 03/01/2009)
I have never owned anything but cheaper model point & shoot (casio exilim z9 & Nikon coolpix s210) & sadly I can never get good zoom shots of my kids from any sort of distance with the above mentioned 3x zoom cameras. I would very much like to take the next step & upgrade to a much better camera. At first I was looking at the extended zoom range cameras (Canon PS SX110 IS) but then in my research stumbled upon the enty level SLR & became smitten. I would like the option of having camera raw (to learn about in the future) & realize that the canon & other ext zoom options I was looking at will not allow for camera raw & I will indeed need to purchase a SLR correct? Thank you for your time & so sorry for such a novice question.
reply to this comment
Andrei (03/07/2009)
This camera comes with a 18-55mm lens, which is the equivalent of a 3X zoom on a compact camera. If you want a better zoom, you would have to buy another lens, like the nikkor 55-200mm - the equivalent of 11X.
Shooting in raw is pretty much the same as in jpg if you are not into photo editing.
reply to this comment
Shooting in raw is pretty much the same as in jpg if you are not into photo editing.
Chibi-Kat (03/07/2009)
Thank you for explaining exactly what the mm lens('s) relays to in zoom ~ I think I may have found a camera that will have the capability to shoot in raw (for I do wish to some day learn more about photo editing & have since purchased Adobe P.S. C.S. 3) ~ I found a non DSLR, an extended zoom which is called a "Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ18K" which states that it has 18x zoom plus the ability to shoot in raw (I was under the impression that only SLR had the ability to shoot in raw) so I was very happy to find the Lumix ~ it is to arrive on Tuesday! Thank you again for taking the time to answer my question!
reply to this comment
Free printable beginner tutorials for D40 users. (cooldeal — 02/26/2009)
I recently bought a D40. Apart from the Nikon's own digital tutorial, is there any one offering free tutorials (step-by-step) guide for beginners.
Your reply is highly appreciated.
Cheers,
cooldeal
reply to this comment
Your reply is highly appreciated.
Cheers,
cooldeal
by James DeRuvo (02/26/2009)
The Internet is filled with them. Short Courses ( shortcourses.com/ ) is one. And you may also want to check out [tfttf.com]Tips from the Top Floor[/url].
reply to this comment
Gabi R. (03/05/2009)
The best place is probably at Ken Rockwell's site, he has this great tutorial and tons of other stuff to read up on, good luck!
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.htm
reply to this comment
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.htm
cooldeal (03/05/2009)
Many thanks to both of you for taking time to reply.
Special thanks to James for the two URLs.
reply to this comment
Special thanks to James for the two URLs.
My camera produces really dark images everytime i take a shot. (alvinmulindwa — 02/16/2009)
Every time I take a shot. the images come out really dark on any mode and in any environment. I don't know if the issue is with the lens or if it is with the camera.
Anyone had the same issue, or able to help?
Thank you
reply to this comment
Anyone had the same issue, or able to help?
Thank you
by James DeRuvo (02/16/2009)
First thing I would do is reset the camera. This is a fairly easy procedure which involves either going into your setup menu and choosing "reset" (or initialize), holding down the menu key for 5 seconds, or, removing the batteries for a few minutes. It may be that the firmware loading got corrupted and the camera just needs to be "rebooted," which is something that turning it on/off won't accomplish. But after which, you should have the camera reset to factory default settings.
Another tip is to go to Nikon's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
reply to this comment
Another tip is to go to Nikon's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
bukit97 (02/16/2009)
The problem probably lies in the camera, not the lens.
Apart from resetting the camera to default , you can also increase the EV to +0.5 or + 1 and the picture will be brighter.
Final adjustment can be done in any photo viewer, Picasa or Irfanview for example, and play around with the brightness and contrast until the picture appears OK to you.
If you are familiar with Photoshop, adjustments will be much more precise.
" Canon's Website " in para 2 of James' answer should be changed to " Nikon's Website " because the question is placed under Nikon D40.
reply to this comment
Apart from resetting the camera to default , you can also increase the EV to +0.5 or + 1 and the picture will be brighter.
Final adjustment can be done in any photo viewer, Picasa or Irfanview for example, and play around with the brightness and contrast until the picture appears OK to you.
If you are familiar with Photoshop, adjustments will be much more precise.
" Canon's Website " in para 2 of James' answer should be changed to " Nikon's Website " because the question is placed under Nikon D40.
by James DeRuvo (02/17/2009)
Me? What are you talking about, Bukit? :P I hate it when I copy the wrong link! LOL.
reply to this comment
bukit97 (02/18/2009)
LOL, now it's correct.
reply to this comment
How do i change my photos that are on RAW format to normal? (Dumbblonde17 — 01/18/2009)
I have photos that are already taken and they are set to RAW format. But i dont want them to be so can i somehow change the photos i have taken to normal?
reply to this comment
Alan Schamber (01/22/2009)
In camera? No way.
Only several cameras have the ability to process a photo from RAW to JPG in camera.
You will have to use the Capture NX of Nikon, or a third party one, like Silkypix, Adobe Photoshop, Carpture One, etc....
Alan.
reply to this comment
Only several cameras have the ability to process a photo from RAW to JPG in camera.
You will have to use the Capture NX of Nikon, or a third party one, like Silkypix, Adobe Photoshop, Carpture One, etc....
Alan.
Heather Fleming (01/26/2009)
So if i use Capture NX of Nikon or any of those others i can get my pics off my camera?
reply to this comment
Alan Schamber (01/28/2009)
Capture NX... Capture One, Silkypix, Photoshop.. etc
There are several.
I recommend Capture One.
Alan.
reply to this comment
There are several.
I recommend Capture One.
Alan.
How to turn off LCD when setting exposure compensation. (Paulie — 01/14/2009)
Hi,
When pressing the exposure button -/+ and adjusting the exposure with the command dial on my Nikon D40, the LCD screen lights up while I'm looking through the view finder. Is there any way I can shut off the LCD screen while adjusting the exposure and looking through the view finder? I really find it distracting.
Thank you,
Paulie
reply to this comment
When pressing the exposure button -/+ and adjusting the exposure with the command dial on my Nikon D40, the LCD screen lights up while I'm looking through the view finder. Is there any way I can shut off the LCD screen while adjusting the exposure and looking through the view finder? I really find it distracting.
Thank you,
Paulie
Paulie (01/22/2009)
Thank you , I found the anwser, there is no way.
Paulie
reply to this comment
Paulie
by James DeRuvo (01/30/2009)
It's always great when people find their own answers. Well done, Paulie!
reply to this comment
Paulie (01/30/2009)
Thank you,
Mr. DeRuvo, you have helped me in the past, I just wanted to say it's great to have people like yourself and digital camera HQ to help people like me. If it wasn't for your help, I probably would have put my digital camera in the closet or just use it like a point and shoot camera .
Thanks again,
Paulie
reply to this comment
Mr. DeRuvo, you have helped me in the past, I just wanted to say it's great to have people like yourself and digital camera HQ to help people like me. If it wasn't for your help, I probably would have put my digital camera in the closet or just use it like a point and shoot camera .
Thanks again,
Paulie
by James DeRuvo (02/02/2009)
Happy to help, Paulie. Good luck.
reply to this comment
Is there a way to turn on the monitor so I can preview before taking a picture? (selah105 — 01/08/2009)
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (01/10/2009)
It's called "live view" and no, it doesn't. And it wouldn't really be an advantage if it did. The viewfinder looks "through the lens" and as such, what you see in it is what you get. The problem with trying to compose your picture with the LCD screen as the monitor is that Tyou have to hold the camera at arm's length. This will only serve to encourage camera shake.
reply to this comment
no image on screen. how to? (stacynmonk — 12/26/2008)
reply to this comment
Madhav (12/26/2008)
Can you please be elaborate on this issue? Are your photos not being displayed in the LCD screen? Or, are you not getting the setting info on the LCD screen?
1. Have you inserted the memory card and stored your pictures? D40 has an option to allow you shoot pictures even when the mem card is not inserted. here, you wont have any images stored for playback. Press "Play" button for playback.
2. Is the Camera Settings info diaplayed on screen?
reply to this comment
1. Have you inserted the memory card and stored your pictures? D40 has an option to allow you shoot pictures even when the mem card is not inserted. here, you wont have any images stored for playback. Press "Play" button for playback.
2. Is the Camera Settings info diaplayed on screen?
stacynmonk (12/26/2008)
Thanks for your response, my question was related to the display screen not showing the image I am taking a picture of. I have since learned that this camera does not do that.
reply to this comment
Wondering which accessories people use with D40. Can anyone suggest which accessories I might want\need? (kasmith — 12/22/2008)
I see there are many accessories. I am interested in what others use for accessories which they feel are important to have. This will be my first DSLR Camera.
reply to this comment
madavakannan (12/23/2008)
Being your first DSLR, i would suggest you get the UV filter (a good make, say Hoya 15$) IMMEDIATELY. this filter not only filters the unwanted UV rays from the external world, but also works great as a lens protector saving your precious lens from dust and scratches.
You may well start with the wonderful 18-55mm kit lens provided. based on your need (bird watching, zoo shots etc), you can extend your lens kit. (additional 55-200mm 200$ etc)
if you are interested in nature shots, you can get a Circular Polarizing filter. (again a good make 30$). Low price/quality filters may deter your kit lens IQ. so, beware. Remember, a Linear Polarizing Filter is not necessary for day to day photography.
If you often shoot indoors, and is you are not bothered about the increase in camera weight, you can buy an external flash light.
Don't forget to get an air gun based lens cleaning system.
Further, with an SLR, there is always enough room for you to grow.
if you have enough budget, you can keep adding lenses and filters.
Remember, it is wise to invest in a cheaper, capable camera body like D40 and spending on expensive high quality lenses, than spending your bucks in a hi-fi camera body and left with no money for accessories.
Happy Shooting.
Hope this helps.
~ Madhav
reply to this comment
You may well start with the wonderful 18-55mm kit lens provided. based on your need (bird watching, zoo shots etc), you can extend your lens kit. (additional 55-200mm 200$ etc)
if you are interested in nature shots, you can get a Circular Polarizing filter. (again a good make 30$). Low price/quality filters may deter your kit lens IQ. so, beware. Remember, a Linear Polarizing Filter is not necessary for day to day photography.
If you often shoot indoors, and is you are not bothered about the increase in camera weight, you can buy an external flash light.
Don't forget to get an air gun based lens cleaning system.
Further, with an SLR, there is always enough room for you to grow.
if you have enough budget, you can keep adding lenses and filters.
Remember, it is wise to invest in a cheaper, capable camera body like D40 and spending on expensive high quality lenses, than spending your bucks in a hi-fi camera body and left with no money for accessories.
Happy Shooting.
Hope this helps.
~ Madhav
bukit97 (12/24/2008)
Actually for a starter, what you need are the following basics accessories.
a) a tripod, which is a must to mount your camera, for close ups, for steadying the camera in low light situation, and if you like, for taking your own pictures.
b) a camera bag, for protecting your camera against minor knocks , dust, drizzles, or for the matter, keep it out of sight of the people. For the last, one famous photographer used to hide it in a bag, any bag except the one carrying the Nikon label.
c) a remote control, ML-L3. This allows you to trigger the camera from a distance, not very far away though for you won't want to chase after people who grap your camera if he sees the opportunity.
d) camera brushes and blowers, a rubber ball of sort that blows air with a squeeze, and soft camel hair brush, if you can get one, to lightly dust away whatever you find on the lens.
e) lens cleaning fluid and soft lens cleaning cloth. This usually comes together and you need them all the time if you want to remove finger prints even if you have a UV filter attached.
f) spare batteries. Just in case if you are not in the habbit of charging your battery before each outing. You only need one in the case of D40 for it lasts you through hundreds of pictures.
g) spare memory cards. Not that you take so much pictures that a single card can't record all of them, especially with the 2 gig card and 4 gig card, but rather as an ' insurance ' when something happens to the card and you are left stranded what to do next.
That's about all you need to get started and as you gather more experience working with the camera, your gadgets will probably grow.
reply to this comment
a) a tripod, which is a must to mount your camera, for close ups, for steadying the camera in low light situation, and if you like, for taking your own pictures.
b) a camera bag, for protecting your camera against minor knocks , dust, drizzles, or for the matter, keep it out of sight of the people. For the last, one famous photographer used to hide it in a bag, any bag except the one carrying the Nikon label.
c) a remote control, ML-L3. This allows you to trigger the camera from a distance, not very far away though for you won't want to chase after people who grap your camera if he sees the opportunity.
d) camera brushes and blowers, a rubber ball of sort that blows air with a squeeze, and soft camel hair brush, if you can get one, to lightly dust away whatever you find on the lens.
e) lens cleaning fluid and soft lens cleaning cloth. This usually comes together and you need them all the time if you want to remove finger prints even if you have a UV filter attached.
f) spare batteries. Just in case if you are not in the habbit of charging your battery before each outing. You only need one in the case of D40 for it lasts you through hundreds of pictures.
g) spare memory cards. Not that you take so much pictures that a single card can't record all of them, especially with the 2 gig card and 4 gig card, but rather as an ' insurance ' when something happens to the card and you are left stranded what to do next.
That's about all you need to get started and as you gather more experience working with the camera, your gadgets will probably grow.
bukit97 (12/24/2008)
Apart from the list given by me, there is one indispensable accessory that applies to all digital cameras and not specifically to D40 alone and this is the Card Reader.
You need a card reader to transfer the pictures to the computer because it is more convenient than connecting your D40 to the computer.
reply to this comment
You need a card reader to transfer the pictures to the computer because it is more convenient than connecting your D40 to the computer.
Ray Frye (01/02/2009)
I received a Nikon D40 for Christmas (actually a few days before Christmas as Santa” wanted to make sure this Christmas was well documented with pictures.
I moved up from a digital point and shoot, but have in the distance past used an entry leve SLR (Pentax SP500 with multiple lenses for any historian out there)
These are the items I’ve purchased since Christmas.
All items but #2 purchased on Amazon.com.
1. Nikon D40/D40x Digital Field Guide (a must have as the manual that comes with the D40 isn't very good; the best book to help you take pictures with the D40)
2. Tripod, a must
3. Tiffen 52mm UV Protection Filter (Protection for the lens that came with the Nikon D40 kit)
4. Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control for Nikon D40, D40x, D60 & D80 Digital SLR Cameras (very handy for taking pictures remotely when mounted on a tripod)
5. Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DL-M "Motorized" DG Macro Telephoto Zoom Lens with Built-in Motor Drive for Nikon SLR Cameras Including D40, D40X, & D60 (an great 2nd lens for the price)
6. Tiffen 58mm UV Protection Filter (Protection for the lens in #5)
7. 0.5x Digital Wide Angle Macro Professional Series Lens + Lens Adapter Tube (If Needed) + Lenspen + Lens Cap Keeper + DB ROTH Micro Fiber Cloth (nice to have)
reply to this comment
I moved up from a digital point and shoot, but have in the distance past used an entry leve SLR (Pentax SP500 with multiple lenses for any historian out there)
These are the items I’ve purchased since Christmas.
All items but #2 purchased on Amazon.com.
1. Nikon D40/D40x Digital Field Guide (a must have as the manual that comes with the D40 isn't very good; the best book to help you take pictures with the D40)
2. Tripod, a must
3. Tiffen 52mm UV Protection Filter (Protection for the lens that came with the Nikon D40 kit)
4. Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control for Nikon D40, D40x, D60 & D80 Digital SLR Cameras (very handy for taking pictures remotely when mounted on a tripod)
5. Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DL-M "Motorized" DG Macro Telephoto Zoom Lens with Built-in Motor Drive for Nikon SLR Cameras Including D40, D40X, & D60 (an great 2nd lens for the price)
6. Tiffen 58mm UV Protection Filter (Protection for the lens in #5)
7. 0.5x Digital Wide Angle Macro Professional Series Lens + Lens Adapter Tube (If Needed) + Lenspen + Lens Cap Keeper + DB ROTH Micro Fiber Cloth (nice to have)
Can i use close up lens kit with my D40? (madavakannan — 12/22/2008)
I see the macro lenses are pricey. i came across cheaper 52mm close up lens kit in ebay. (+1, +2 and +4 thread type diaptors) can i use these lenses with my D40 for Macro shooting without degrading my IQ? Please help. Thanks.
reply to this comment
bukit97 (12/23/2008)
The type of closup lens that you refer to are sometimes known as closeup diopters. They come in fixed magnifications of +1, +2 and +4 and can be screwed onto the existing lens of D40.
They work to a certain extend but I wouldn't vouch for the quality of pictures produced as, to quote a statement in a forum, "Single-element diopters are not much use for serious work, as they all exhibit lots of color fringing and often poor resolution as well."
Low cost close up diopters are not expected to compare favourably as replacements of the proper Macro lens, but if you are not very particular of the details and just want to take a close up picture, it works on D40.
reply to this comment
They work to a certain extend but I wouldn't vouch for the quality of pictures produced as, to quote a statement in a forum, "Single-element diopters are not much use for serious work, as they all exhibit lots of color fringing and often poor resolution as well."
Low cost close up diopters are not expected to compare favourably as replacements of the proper Macro lens, but if you are not very particular of the details and just want to take a close up picture, it works on D40.
D40Pro (05/04/2009)
I would go up to a camera shop and see if they have any older macro lenses used. You can save a lot going this route.
reply to this comment
Zoom range of 55-200mm lens? (madavakannan — 12/22/2008)
I am planning to get a 55-200mm AFS DX VR lens for my D40. Can you please let me know what 'X' of zoom (wrt 35mm) will I get with this lens?
I am not interested either in costlier 300mm lenses or 18-200mm lens. Thanks.
reply to this comment
I am not interested either in costlier 300mm lenses or 18-200mm lens. Thanks.
bukit97 (12/23/2008)
The ' X ' rating actually limits itself to a specific zoom lens.
In this case, a 55 - 200mm lens, when converted, will be 3.6X although people don't normally denote a zoom lens as such except in compact P&S cameras.
So if you want to have an idea, no harm about that, a 55-200mm lens would be about 1.5X to 5.7 X of a 35mm lens, but you probably will have some trouble convincing others what it means to them because we normally don't compare one lens to another on ' X ' rating basis.
reply to this comment
In this case, a 55 - 200mm lens, when converted, will be 3.6X although people don't normally denote a zoom lens as such except in compact P&S cameras.
So if you want to have an idea, no harm about that, a 55-200mm lens would be about 1.5X to 5.7 X of a 35mm lens, but you probably will have some trouble convincing others what it means to them because we normally don't compare one lens to another on ' X ' rating basis.
madavakannan (12/24/2008)
Thanks for your reply.
Does that mean that the zoom of this lens is only equivalent to 3.6x zoom of the P&S cameras?
Wont i get 5.7x zoom?
i am confused.
reply to this comment
Does that mean that the zoom of this lens is only equivalent to 3.6x zoom of the P&S cameras?
Wont i get 5.7x zoom?
i am confused.
bukit97 (12/24/2008)
The word Zoom only refers to the changing of focal length within the same lens.
You cannot divide the 200mm of one lens by the 35mm of another and say you are getting 5.7X zoom.
You may say, if you like, my 200mm lens is 5.7 times more powerful than your 35mm lens.
55mm-200mm lens will only give you 3.6X by definition, just like in <a href="products.howstuffworks.com/... this advertisement </a>, a 70mm - 300mm zoom lens is described as 4.3 X zoom, not otherwise.
reply to this comment
You cannot divide the 200mm of one lens by the 35mm of another and say you are getting 5.7X zoom.
You may say, if you like, my 200mm lens is 5.7 times more powerful than your 35mm lens.
55mm-200mm lens will only give you 3.6X by definition, just like in <a href="products.howstuffworks.com/... this advertisement </a>, a 70mm - 300mm zoom lens is described as 4.3 X zoom, not otherwise.
Cruiznbye (01/05/2009)
The 55-200mm VR would be a very good zoom range for your D40 as a long telephoto. In old 35mm film range that will look like a 300mm when zoomed out to the 200mm on the digital camera with has a 1.5 crop factor. The VR will be important to you as well when you get into the higher zooms as the vibration reduction system does work very well with this lens. You'll find you can actually with practice shoot at the full 200mm zoom end hand held and get very sharp pictures, even at night when a tripod would be a must in most cases. I've been using the 18-200mm VR lens on a D50 for a while now, and I don't miss my Sigma 70-300mm as the reach of the 18-200mm has been more than adequate in nearly every situation. Combined with your kit lens of 18-55, the 55-200mm will give you the total equivalent of 11.1x zoom (counting both lenses). You can view some of the 200mm handheld shots on my Flickr page if you wish. All handheld, and many zoomed in at 200mm on a D50. Your D40 will actually give a slight edge to your photos due to improved in camera processing on the D40.
flickr.com/photos/33346716@...
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flickr.com/photos/33346716@...
Alsion (04/25/2009)
55-200mm on the long end lens is 11X increase relative to 18mm
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I have a blinking question mark on my screen, and camera will not take a picture (BASKETS4 — 12/19/2008)
I have only had my camera 2 weeks, so I am new at this. This past week when I would go to take a picture, when I pushed the shutter button down, it would not take. A blinking ?make comes up on the display screen. I am in auto mode.
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Brenda Paro (12/21/2008)
Not sure. It's possible you just bumped a setting somewhere. Can you get into the menus and do a reset/ restore factory defaults?
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BASKETS4 (12/22/2008)
Thanks. I will try that. My kids have had my camera, so that could be the problem.
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bukit97 (12/23/2008)
In auto mode, the ' ? ' mark will be blinking if the' subject is too dark '.
Usually the flash will pop up under such situration and let you take pictures.
However, if you had set the flash to ' off ' previously and forget to turn it on again, the camera will not do so.
Just press the ' + ' button on the bottom left hand corner twice to bring up the screen for you to navigate to the ' flash ' and set it to ' on '. This enables the flash to pop up and you can take pictures again.
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Usually the flash will pop up under such situration and let you take pictures.
However, if you had set the flash to ' off ' previously and forget to turn it on again, the camera will not do so.
Just press the ' + ' button on the bottom left hand corner twice to bring up the screen for you to navigate to the ' flash ' and set it to ' on '. This enables the flash to pop up and you can take pictures again.
BASKETS4 (12/23/2008)
Thank you. I just did that and it helped. I am just learning about my new camera.
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bukit97 (12/24/2008)
Glad my solution works.
Solving a problem by ' remote control ' and not actually handling the camera, involves a lot of guesses.
In this case I tried it out on my camera to find out what actually could be the problem. We are lucky that what I found is actually what you are facing.
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Solving a problem by ' remote control ' and not actually handling the camera, involves a lot of guesses.
In this case I tried it out on my camera to find out what actually could be the problem. We are lucky that what I found is actually what you are facing.
Does the Nikon D40 or D40X have Liveview, if not, which DSLR's do? (jess0181 — 12/12/2008)
Does it at least have a preview BEFORE I take a picture b/c I don't use viewfinders much.
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Brenda Paro (12/13/2008)
The D40/D40X do not. Many other models do, including the Olympus E-500 line, the Canon Rebels/ D-line, and a lot of others.
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jess0181 (12/15/2008)
Damn, I should be getting a Rebel then.
Thanks for responding!
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Thanks for responding!
Brenda Paro (12/15/2008)
I tend to agree! Not just for that, but because it's got some other good features too. The D40 is great but is entry-level for DSLR, while the Rebel is pushing more towards pro level.
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jess0181 (12/18/2008)
Well I need entry level though, that's why I'm getting it. I've never had a DSLR before & I read that it's a good introduction to it.
Thanks for your answers!
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Thanks for your answers!
what about a tripod? Needed or not (ppmaag — 12/11/2008)
I recently purchased the Nikon D40 and I have 4 children...do you feel a tripod is in my best interest? and which one if so??
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camera? (12/12/2008)
Tripods are great! They keep things steady, which is a plus when you've got four children running around. I hear Manfrotto makes good tripods.
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ppmaag (12/12/2008)
Thanks so much, Merry Christmas.
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by James DeRuvo (12/15/2008)
Tripods are great, but it also depends on what kind of shooting you'll be doing. A monopod may be a better investment as it keeps you mobile until you need to pop it down and steady the camera. There's also smaller pods like the "Quickpod" which allow for you to be in the shot by holding your camera at arms length using it. It has a small tripod mount if necessary.
But Monfrotto makes outstanding, but pricey, tripods. Velbon works and are less expensive.
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But Monfrotto makes outstanding, but pricey, tripods. Velbon works and are less expensive.
Brenda Paro (12/22/2008)
Tripods are fun to have. If you're photographing kids, you may not need one - too much running around! Don't forget you can also stabilize/ support a camera on things like tables and chairs. It's very easy to substitute for a tripod, at least indoors.
If you do decide it's an accessory you want, James is right in mentioning Velbon. Bought mine used for $5 at a garage sale, and yes, it's a cheap brand, but it works great.
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If you do decide it's an accessory you want, James is right in mentioning Velbon. Bought mine used for $5 at a garage sale, and yes, it's a cheap brand, but it works great.
I'm going on a trip to England ... (rrubyred — 12/02/2008)
A decent DSLR has been long overdue, I believe, even though it is a bit pricey for me. I've been using a combination of crappy canon point & shoot an this old Minolta SLR dinosaur, so I'm a novice but not totally. How's this camera for transitional purposes? Also it's more for hobby purposes, not professional photography - also, how well would it function for taking pictures on vacation?
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Richard (12/07/2008)
I live in London in England and have owned a Nikon D40X for about 8 months. Compared with some other DSLRs I tried, it's a lot lighter and is no trouble to carry around in a bag all day when you are on holiday. Rather than lug a separate camera bag about with me, I either hang it round my neck or wrap it in a sweatshirt and put it in a small rucksack with my sandwiches. In winter I have a coat with really big pockets, and it just fits in one of those.
Is it easy to use? Well, I have a 2 year old daughter and 4 year old son - and they have both taken really good photos with it! In automatic mode, it is as simple as point & shoot, but the camera starts up much quicker than my old compact digital. As for quality of images, I really can't complain. They are much better than from any point & shoot camera I have ever had.
Bad points? Not really. Some of the photos I have taken with it have been great, others awful. The great ones have been down to luck, the awful ones down to the photographer!
Hope you enjoy your vacation.
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Is it easy to use? Well, I have a 2 year old daughter and 4 year old son - and they have both taken really good photos with it! In automatic mode, it is as simple as point & shoot, but the camera starts up much quicker than my old compact digital. As for quality of images, I really can't complain. They are much better than from any point & shoot camera I have ever had.
Bad points? Not really. Some of the photos I have taken with it have been great, others awful. The great ones have been down to luck, the awful ones down to the photographer!
Hope you enjoy your vacation.
KENKO PRO 300 2X AF/NIKON - Has anyone tried this with their D40? OR anyother type of converter? If so, could you let me know how you liked them? (dp69 — 11/22/2008)
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by James DeRuvo (11/24/2008)
Teleconverters may look like a deal on it's face, but all they really do is simply magnify the existing range, doubling it. This has terrible trade-offs including light loss, sharpness/clarity loss, and increased camera shake. I don't recommend them unless you're using a tripod and compensating for the loss of light.
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bukit97 (11/24/2008)
James is right and here is a statement from a forum to support it :
" If you still want to try, your best bet is the Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG Teleconverter that sells for approx. $200. With the 2X converter you lose too much light and AF rarely works even in good light." see <a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... this site </a>
Perhaps the next statement from the same forum is equally discouraging :
" The use of a TC will reduce IQ some and with a lens like yours it could be painful. You also need to consider that a 1.4x TC reduces your exposure by 1 stop and a 2x TC by 2 stops. The Nikon focus system specifies an effective maximum aperture of f 5.6 and as your lens is f 5.6 before you add a TC , you will be out of spec for auto focus. This does not mean that auto focus will not work, it may work very slowly or not at all."
Lastly, most of the TCs are designed for lenses without built in motors. see <a href="nikonlinks.com/articles_tel... here</a> .
If you use it for D40, ......... it will not autofocus.
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" If you still want to try, your best bet is the Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG Teleconverter that sells for approx. $200. With the 2X converter you lose too much light and AF rarely works even in good light." see <a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... this site </a>
Perhaps the next statement from the same forum is equally discouraging :
" The use of a TC will reduce IQ some and with a lens like yours it could be painful. You also need to consider that a 1.4x TC reduces your exposure by 1 stop and a 2x TC by 2 stops. The Nikon focus system specifies an effective maximum aperture of f 5.6 and as your lens is f 5.6 before you add a TC , you will be out of spec for auto focus. This does not mean that auto focus will not work, it may work very slowly or not at all."
Lastly, most of the TCs are designed for lenses without built in motors. see <a href="nikonlinks.com/articles_tel... here</a> .
If you use it for D40, ......... it will not autofocus.
dp69 (11/25/2008)
Well, you definately answered my questions. Thanks for all the info you both gave and especially for the sites.
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My first wedding .It's inside and small . Should I use my built in flash or would it be best to use my sb600 and bounce off the ceiling . (cj48 — 11/14/2008)
I want to use my55-200mm lens.
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bukit97 (11/15/2008)
It's best to use the SB600, especially when the group picture is going to include more than 5 persons.
There is a very useful forum on wedding photography at <a href="photo.net/wedding-photograp... this site </a> and <a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... this site </a> where the use of flash, including SB600, is discussed.
You may be able to pick up some pointers from the discussions.
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There is a very useful forum on wedding photography at <a href="photo.net/wedding-photograp... this site </a> and <a href="forums.dpreview.com/forums/... this site </a> where the use of flash, including SB600, is discussed.
You may be able to pick up some pointers from the discussions.
camera is in auto mode...will not take a picture (renee58 — 11/13/2008)
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bukit97 (11/14/2008)
Ans deleted on 19 Nov.as by not responding, OP is probably no more interested.
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Purpose of putting your name in the camera itself (pasknucklehead — 11/09/2008)
I know there is a place you can put your name on your photos inside your camera, what purpose does this serve
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by James DeRuvo (11/10/2008)
Not real purpose to it, other than the kitchy nature of it. But I can see how it can help in taking group shots.
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In poor light my internal flash pops up but does not fire, Nikon D40 (photopete — 11/08/2008)
Can anybody help, i drop my Nikon D40 whilst away, since then the internal flash has never worked. When it in flash mode it pops up but does not fire. I have reset the camera to no avail and and have asked the advice of a dealer who wanted to charge me ?200 to investigate the control system. Could it be the bulb in the flash or could i buy a external flash gun???
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bukit97 (11/09/2008)
Personally I would not pay $200 just to ' investigate the control system ' as a new SB-400 only sells for $102.95 while a new D40 only sells for about $363 at Adorama.
On the other hand, somebody reported a similar problem in D70 was solved within minutes by a photographer working in a camera shop.
Perhaps you should ask for a few quotations from different shops.
Log in to this site <a href="fixya.com/support/t212824-n... to see discussions and solutions to D40 flash problems </a> or see <a href="talkphotography.co.uk/forum... this site </a> on what people do when their built in flash does not work.
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On the other hand, somebody reported a similar problem in D70 was solved within minutes by a photographer working in a camera shop.
Perhaps you should ask for a few quotations from different shops.
Log in to this site <a href="fixya.com/support/t212824-n... to see discussions and solutions to D40 flash problems </a> or see <a href="talkphotography.co.uk/forum... this site </a> on what people do when their built in flash does not work.
Blurry action shots. (mcurrin — 10/11/2008)
I'm taking soccer photos outside using the D-40 with a 55-200 lens set on continuous shoot on the auto setting. Alot of the action shots are coming out blurry. Can someone suggest how I can get clearer photos?
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bukit97 (10/15/2008)
What you need to do is fine tune the settings of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.
Auto setting by the camera gives you the best picture under normal usage. In Soccer games, players move fast and you must catch them with a faster shutter speed, say 1/100 sec.
You probably will find that higher shutter speed needs higher ISOs. For D40, ISO 800 or 1600 will be helpful. There is even a Hi setting which is seldom used.
Lastly, fast lens is critical for successful sports photography, something with an aperture of 2.8 or less.
If budget permits, I would also opt for VR lens, otherwise, there is no choice but to carry a tripod around.
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Auto setting by the camera gives you the best picture under normal usage. In Soccer games, players move fast and you must catch them with a faster shutter speed, say 1/100 sec.
You probably will find that higher shutter speed needs higher ISOs. For D40, ISO 800 or 1600 will be helpful. There is even a Hi setting which is seldom used.
Lastly, fast lens is critical for successful sports photography, something with an aperture of 2.8 or less.
If budget permits, I would also opt for VR lens, otherwise, there is no choice but to carry a tripod around.
Aditya D (10/17/2008)
Try some of these settings, recommended by one of our camera experts, James Deruvo, many have found them very helpful:
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
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1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Aditya D (10/17/2008)
Also, technique only helps to a certain point, like bukit said, its probably your best investment to use an f/2.8 lens. It is usually a $1700 investment for the proprietary ones (the ones made directly by Nikon), but it is a worthwhile investment. Also, you could go for an offbrand like Sigma or Tamron, which have f/2.8 lenses, but are not quite as sharp and use cheaper glass. Your best bet would be to get a 70-200mm zoom f/2.8 VR, like bukit suggested. The lens is the key part of what makes the photo here, and though its a hefty investment, these lenses have been used by people for the last 20 years, and probably will be good for the next 20-30 years.
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D40Pro (05/04/2009)
Just put it on Sports mode.
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How can I reset flash to auto flash on my Nikon D40? (Paulie — 10/05/2008)
I was shooting pictures at the Zoo and somewhere in the menu I found flash off. I selected flash off and now I can't find that menu to select flash on. I tried setting the camera on program, holding down the Info button and holding the flash symbol on left side of camera while rotating the dial to select the redeye setting. But that doesn't work. If I set the camera in the auto mode the flash will pop-up and flash automatically when needed.
Thank you,
Paulie
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Thank you,
Paulie
Paulie (10/06/2008)
Hi,
I found out what my problem was, it turned out I was the problem. It was my fault.
But thanks anyway.
Paulie
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I found out what my problem was, it turned out I was the problem. It was my fault.
But thanks anyway.
Paulie
Aditya D (10/09/2008)
Well glad you solved your own problem, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
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Paulie (10/09/2008)
Aditya D,
Thank you for your reply. You have been such a big help answering my questions. Problems that seem to be so easy for you to solve are headaches for me. I am really happy with Digital H Q and helpfull people like you who take your time and help people like me. I guess that's why this is a great site. I just hope I can learn enough to be helpfull to other people just learning about photography, as you are to me.
Thank you Aditya D,
Paulie
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Thank you for your reply. You have been such a big help answering my questions. Problems that seem to be so easy for you to solve are headaches for me. I am really happy with Digital H Q and helpfull people like you who take your time and help people like me. I guess that's why this is a great site. I just hope I can learn enough to be helpfull to other people just learning about photography, as you are to me.
Thank you Aditya D,
Paulie
Best all around lens (Paulie — 09/20/2008)
Hello,
Can you tell me which would be the best all around lens. Would it be an 18-200mm VC or 18-250mm VC or 28-300mm VC. Tamron is coming out with a 18-270mm VC also. I want one lens to carry around on vacation. I am using a Nikon D40.
Thank you,
Paulie
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Can you tell me which would be the best all around lens. Would it be an 18-200mm VC or 18-250mm VC or 28-300mm VC. Tamron is coming out with a 18-270mm VC also. I want one lens to carry around on vacation. I am using a Nikon D40.
Thank you,
Paulie
Aditya D (09/22/2008)
Well it really depends, a lot of it depends on the fstop, and whether you wanted a wide angle portion. They're all good zoom lenses, but I have a feeling they're a bit cheaper, and have fairly high value fstops. Ideally you'll want one with an f/4 or lower fstop, and decent telephoto zoom. This kind of limits your options, especially if you don't want to spend a ton of money, but if you can tell me the fstops for each of the lenses, I'd be glad to give you further advice. Honeslty I'm thinking the 18-200 is your best bet, because from experience I think it has the lowest fvalue.
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Paulie (09/22/2008)
Hi Aditya,
The 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3
18-270mm f/3.5-3.6
18-250mm f/3.5-6.3
18-200mm f/3.5-6.3
Thank you for your help and quick reply.
Paulie
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The 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3
18-270mm f/3.5-3.6
18-250mm f/3.5-6.3
18-200mm f/3.5-6.3
Thank you for your help and quick reply.
Paulie
Aditya D (09/23/2008)
Hmm, weird, it looks like they all have the same f values (I'm assuming the second one is supposed to say f/3.5-6.3, not f/3.5-3.6). In the case just go with the 18-270, it gives you a long zoom, plus a nice wide angle shot if you need it for portraits and landscapes. Also, if you have the extra money try and get the Nikon version, it has better parts, and better glass, which makes for a much better photo, especially if you look at sharpness and color.
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Paulie (09/23/2008)
Hello, Aditya D
Thank you for your opinion. I will look into the Nikon lens but I'm sure it will be a lot more expensive, the Tamron 18-270mm won't be out until November, it will sell for just under $600.00.
Thanks again,
Paulie
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Thank you for your opinion. I will look into the Nikon lens but I'm sure it will be a lot more expensive, the Tamron 18-270mm won't be out until November, it will sell for just under $600.00.
Thanks again,
Paulie
Aditya D (09/23/2008)
No problem, I hope you enjoy your lens, which given its wide telephoto range and its lower aperture, I think you will find it very versatile and useful.
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DOES THIS LENS COME WITH CAMERA AND WILL IT SHOOT WIDE ANGLES (tryingsomethingnw — 09/10/2008)
ON THIS MODEL NIKON D40
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Aditya D (09/11/2008)
It really depends on the kit you buy. The standard kit comes with the 18-55mm lens. 18-24mm is considered wide-angled, so yes the camera will shoot wide angled shots.
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by James DeRuvo (09/15/2008)
Agreed. The last you want, however, is just to go with a 50mm lens. It doesn't do that much other than portraits and even then a 105mm is better for that purpose. Some like the 50mm, but frankly, every time I got one, I just tossed it in a drawer in favor of a good zoom like the one's listed above. I'd also get a 55-200 (or there abouts) to cover the distant range. Regardless of what lens you end up with, buy a 1A Skylight filter for both the main camera lens and your fisheye. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
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tryingsomethingnw (09/17/2008)
THANKS ADITYA FOR YOUR INPUT
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Does the Nikon D40 support using the viewfinder to take shots? (elizabethroche — 09/09/2008)
I was just curious. I am making the jump from P&S and wanted to know if the D40 allows the user to decide if they are using the viewfinder to view and take a shot or not. For ex. the Sony A350 has "live view"...
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jpollano33 (09/09/2008)
Hi Elizabeth:
Yes, with the D40 the viewfinder is used to frame the picture. You do not have the option to preview the picture in the monitor, as with most SLR's. The monitor is used for selecting menu items and making corrections after taking the picture.
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Yes, with the D40 the viewfinder is used to frame the picture. You do not have the option to preview the picture in the monitor, as with most SLR's. The monitor is used for selecting menu items and making corrections after taking the picture.
elizabethroche (09/09/2008)
Hi J Pollano
Thanks so much for replying to my question. Just to make sure I understand your answer, you can ONLY take pics from the 2.5" LCD view on the back of the camera and not at all from the eye piece? Sorry to be so dense, but I'm new and the terminology can stump/confuse me sometimes.
Elizabeth
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Thanks so much for replying to my question. Just to make sure I understand your answer, you can ONLY take pics from the 2.5" LCD view on the back of the camera and not at all from the eye piece? Sorry to be so dense, but I'm new and the terminology can stump/confuse me sometimes.
Elizabeth
jpollano33 (09/09/2008)
Hi Elizabeth:
It's the other way around. You need to compose the picture thru the viewfinder. (eye piece)
You cannot pre-view the picture on the LCD screen, as you do with P&S cameras. (some P&S cameras do not even have a viewfinder.)
The D40 monitor allows you to do many many other things, but pre-viewing the picture is not one of them.
The viewfinder is actually a much better way to compose your picture, as you avoid reflection on the LCD and camera movement as well.
reply to this comment
It's the other way around. You need to compose the picture thru the viewfinder. (eye piece)
You cannot pre-view the picture on the LCD screen, as you do with P&S cameras. (some P&S cameras do not even have a viewfinder.)
The D40 monitor allows you to do many many other things, but pre-viewing the picture is not one of them.
The viewfinder is actually a much better way to compose your picture, as you avoid reflection on the LCD and camera movement as well.
elizabethroche (09/09/2008)
Thanks :)
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elizabethroche (09/09/2008)
Last question about this: What other DSLR's allow you to use the back panel monitor to frame shots? Any of the Nikon DSLR's?
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Aditya D (09/14/2008)
The feature you're actually looking for is called Live View, where you can see the picture taken on the LCD screen instead of the viewfinder (or see it on both if you wish). This feature is not very common because of two things, the first, when there's sunlight, it reflects of the LCD screen and its almost impossible to see, the second, being that the further you hold the camera away from your body, the less steady of a shot that you get, versus if its close to your eye you'll get a much steadier shot. With that being said, some of the new amateur SLRs are coming with that feature, because people just like the convenience of being able to see the picture on the LCD. The new Nikon's that come with it are the D3 and the D300. The D300 is a great camera, and has several new features besides the live view, so I would definitely go with that.
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Alan Schamber (09/14/2008)
In nikon... also see the Nikon D90.
But I wonder how much are you going to use the Live View function, once you see how good is an optical viewfinder of a good camera. You cannot compare the experience..
If not... other cameras that come with that are the new olympus (E420 and E520, and also E3), the Pentax K20, the Canon 40D, XSi and 50D... an Nikon D3 and D300. You can also look for the Panasonic G1, if shooting with an LCD is ALL you want.
Alan.
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But I wonder how much are you going to use the Live View function, once you see how good is an optical viewfinder of a good camera. You cannot compare the experience..
If not... other cameras that come with that are the new olympus (E420 and E520, and also E3), the Pentax K20, the Canon 40D, XSi and 50D... an Nikon D3 and D300. You can also look for the Panasonic G1, if shooting with an LCD is ALL you want.
Alan.
Turn off "Highlights" (Planner4 — 09/06/2008)
How do I turn off the blinking highlights in the viewfinder that indicate over exposure.
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Tim Trerise (09/06/2008)
Hi BJ,
Are you talking about right after you take a picture? When you have it on the creen, press the four way controller on the right of the screen either up or down to get off of it.
reply to this comment
Are you talking about right after you take a picture? When you have it on the creen, press the four way controller on the right of the screen either up or down to get off of it.
bukit97 (09/09/2008)
The picture that appear immediately after taking a shot disappears rather quickly.
A betterr way is to open the picture under View Mode, and click the Up button two or three times until blinking stops.
reply to this comment
A betterr way is to open the picture under View Mode, and click the Up button two or three times until blinking stops.
Wont allow me to take a picture even though the flash is on & the camera is focused (taz85364 — 09/03/2008)
Last night I was taking pictures of my daughter. I had the camera on AF. The flash was on & when I would press the shutter button the camera would focus - it would beep & one of the 3 AF squares would go red letting me know what it was focusing on. BUT it wouldn't take the picture. Anyone know why it was doing this. I would get 5 or 6 pictures and than it would stop taking pictures.
reply to this comment
bukit97 (09/06/2008)
The only times that the camera refuses to take pictures are
a. when the subject is out of focus
b. when the flash is on but takes time to get fully charged
If you have been taking 5 or 6 pictures in the night, probably the flash used up a lot of battery power which could be weak to begin with.
Chances are nothing is wrong with the camera and I would suspect a weak battery.
reply to this comment
a. when the subject is out of focus
b. when the flash is on but takes time to get fully charged
If you have been taking 5 or 6 pictures in the night, probably the flash used up a lot of battery power which could be weak to begin with.
Chances are nothing is wrong with the camera and I would suspect a weak battery.
by James DeRuvo (09/08/2008)
I can think of another time ... if there's no memory card to write to. My Canon tells me that every time I forget to put it in.
reply to this comment
Carla Christine Monson (01/05/2009)
Same as me i'm also having this problem and dont know what to do.
My camera also makes a funny noise as well when i try and take a picture, it was fine before but it just doesnt now.
reply to this comment
My camera also makes a funny noise as well when i try and take a picture, it was fine before but it just doesnt now.
Refurbished Canon digital rebel 400D vs Brand New Nikon D40 (amaediyinka — 08/20/2008)
Though i have read literally thousands of comments and various reviews...comparing both cameras.. with Canon fans rooting for canon and vice versa.. My questionis a little more specific to the fact that while i can see that both are pretty greta cameras that take excellent shots, have good egronomics, sharp pictures, various functionalities.etc etc .
The Canon seems higher ended with more functionality and gives you the oppurtunity to grow professionally. Although he Nikon takes great shots, is only limted in the mega-pixel category, but that's only if you'll be taking large shots, is more for the very new beginer to slr's, and does not bode well with older Nikor lens ( that's fine... i don't have one anyway), it doesn't have the lens self-cleaning feature which the Canon does, but all in all a lot of people recommend it.
Now with price, the New canon is much more expensive. My question is would i still get good value for money buying a refurbished canon 400d ( with only a 3month warranty) model or better to stick with a brand new NIkon 40D camera ( 1 year warranty ) that is almost good??
Any suggestions and comments please !!!
reply to this comment
The Canon seems higher ended with more functionality and gives you the oppurtunity to grow professionally. Although he Nikon takes great shots, is only limted in the mega-pixel category, but that's only if you'll be taking large shots, is more for the very new beginer to slr's, and does not bode well with older Nikor lens ( that's fine... i don't have one anyway), it doesn't have the lens self-cleaning feature which the Canon does, but all in all a lot of people recommend it.
Now with price, the New canon is much more expensive. My question is would i still get good value for money buying a refurbished canon 400d ( with only a 3month warranty) model or better to stick with a brand new NIkon 40D camera ( 1 year warranty ) that is almost good??
Any suggestions and comments please !!!
by James DeRuvo (08/21/2008)
Well both will let you grow into serious digital photography, but make no mistake, the 400D is an entry level DSLR much like it's Nikon counterpart. In reality, both would serve you well. As for the warranty, most warranties are 1 year parts, 90 days labor. So you may want to double check that.
Refurbished models are great alternatives. Often they're brand new cameras that were loaned out to the media or just opened and the laws prohibit cameras that were opened to be sold brand new. So often, you end up getting a new camera anyway. And if it's going to fail, it'll fail within the warranty period. And even if that's still a concern, check your credit card membership benefits. You may qualify for an extended warranty if you use the card to buy it.
reply to this comment
Refurbished models are great alternatives. Often they're brand new cameras that were loaned out to the media or just opened and the laws prohibit cameras that were opened to be sold brand new. So often, you end up getting a new camera anyway. And if it's going to fail, it'll fail within the warranty period. And even if that's still a concern, check your credit card membership benefits. You may qualify for an extended warranty if you use the card to buy it.
amaediyinka (08/23/2008)
Thanks for the clarity James,
I checked the warranty stipulated, ( i'm buying online) and Canon said '' * Warranty Length: This product comes with 3 MONTHS UK Guarantee by Seller. * Coverage: This warranty covers repair or replacement of defective product. This package includes the following warranty:This product is CANON REFURBISHED IN Canon REFURBISHED BOX , everything is keeping in the original manufactory status.''
while the NIkon D40 states '' 100% BRAND NEW SEALED! 1 Year Guarantee!''. what do you think??
As a professional which would you actually prefer.... If you were for instance new to photography and were planning to grow professionally. The Nikon D40 or the Canon 400D.. whether new or refurbished. Pls suggest one of them specifically, because i want to consider that fact that the one i start with would most likely be the one i continue with.
Secondly I'm thinking of getting either camera with its lens kit, but heard the canon's is no where near the nikon's (these particular models) in terms of quality. And i'm not really thinking of spending on major lens for now. Do u think the Canon - 18-55mm Canon EF-S Lens would still take great pictures??
Don't worry about leaning towards your prefrence. I can tell you're a pro!!!
thanks
reply to this comment
I checked the warranty stipulated, ( i'm buying online) and Canon said '' * Warranty Length: This product comes with 3 MONTHS UK Guarantee by Seller. * Coverage: This warranty covers repair or replacement of defective product. This package includes the following warranty:This product is CANON REFURBISHED IN Canon REFURBISHED BOX , everything is keeping in the original manufactory status.''
while the NIkon D40 states '' 100% BRAND NEW SEALED! 1 Year Guarantee!''. what do you think??
As a professional which would you actually prefer.... If you were for instance new to photography and were planning to grow professionally. The Nikon D40 or the Canon 400D.. whether new or refurbished. Pls suggest one of them specifically, because i want to consider that fact that the one i start with would most likely be the one i continue with.
Secondly I'm thinking of getting either camera with its lens kit, but heard the canon's is no where near the nikon's (these particular models) in terms of quality. And i'm not really thinking of spending on major lens for now. Do u think the Canon - 18-55mm Canon EF-S Lens would still take great pictures??
Don't worry about leaning towards your prefrence. I can tell you're a pro!!!
thanks
by James DeRuvo (08/25/2008)
As a professional? Well, even as a consumer I'd prefer the Nikon's warranty. But if your credit card has an extended warranty benefit, it may be a moot point.
I'm using that 18-55 mm lens on my XSi and have been quite pleased with the results, Amaedi. It's a good to cut your teeth on.
reply to this comment
I'm using that 18-55 mm lens on my XSi and have been quite pleased with the results, Amaedi. It's a good to cut your teeth on.
what is the best setting to use for an evening beach wedding (emilybartlett915 — 08/11/2008)
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (08/14/2008)
Bone up on your research for shooting sunsets ( creativepro.com/article/dig... ) so you can understand the factors and science behind using sunsets to your advantage. For best results, using your camera's internal light meter to evaluate the scene, then bracketing up and down one stop will help you get the best shot.
More tips here ( google.com/search?q=shootin... ).
reply to this comment
More tips here ( google.com/search?q=shootin... ).
Alan Schamber (09/03/2008)
What equipment do you have? Which lenses? Flash?
Set the camera in Manual, select ISO 400 (it has no noise in that camera), and meter to the sky. Once you've got that numbers, select the widest aperture as possible (depends on the lens...) so you can have a shallow depth of field, but always realizing that one less stop of aperture, will come to one more stop of shutter speed (specially take this into account, if you just have the camea flash or not a i-TTL flash, that have high speed function. After that... Select the flash in +0,5, because of the white dress, and to get the best of skintones.
To have the best out of this... you would need:
A constant 2,8 zoom;
A good i-TTL flash (at least the SB-800);
If possible... a good wireless flash, to have three light sources (sun, flash on camera, and this third flash).
Hope you get those photos right,
Alan.
reply to this comment
Set the camera in Manual, select ISO 400 (it has no noise in that camera), and meter to the sky. Once you've got that numbers, select the widest aperture as possible (depends on the lens...) so you can have a shallow depth of field, but always realizing that one less stop of aperture, will come to one more stop of shutter speed (specially take this into account, if you just have the camea flash or not a i-TTL flash, that have high speed function. After that... Select the flash in +0,5, because of the white dress, and to get the best of skintones.
To have the best out of this... you would need:
A constant 2,8 zoom;
A good i-TTL flash (at least the SB-800);
If possible... a good wireless flash, to have three light sources (sun, flash on camera, and this third flash).
Hope you get those photos right,
Alan.
Tim Trerise (09/03/2008)
Hi Emily,
Evening events are difficult to plan for, as they have a big variable - the changing sky. In your camera, I would pop up the flash, select mode "A", put the aperture on about f/5.6, and dial in a stop of under-exposure (-1). This will give you a good deal more flash coverage than "p" (in "p" the flash is good for 15-20 ft., in "a" it goes out to 30!).
This also gives you the added benefit of the changing sky being adapted to, though. Check your shots often and use your feet to do most of the zooming rather than the lens.
Let me know how it goes!
reply to this comment
Evening events are difficult to plan for, as they have a big variable - the changing sky. In your camera, I would pop up the flash, select mode "A", put the aperture on about f/5.6, and dial in a stop of under-exposure (-1). This will give you a good deal more flash coverage than "p" (in "p" the flash is good for 15-20 ft., in "a" it goes out to 30!).
This also gives you the added benefit of the changing sky being adapted to, though. Check your shots often and use your feet to do most of the zooming rather than the lens.
Let me know how it goes!
Alan Schamber (09/03/2008)
Tim... maybe you cannot plan, but there is a guide. The guide says that the sky is going to be white if we don't use flash, or it is not enough powered.
The A mode, is just aperture mode. It doesn't change the flash guide number... if your lens is a 5,6, no matter in which setting you set your camera in, a flash with a guide number of 30, will just get to 5,4 meters in ISO 100.
Alan.
reply to this comment
The A mode, is just aperture mode. It doesn't change the flash guide number... if your lens is a 5,6, no matter in which setting you set your camera in, a flash with a guide number of 30, will just get to 5,4 meters in ISO 100.
Alan.
Shutter button will not allow me to take pictures indoors in low light (Paulie — 08/07/2008)
Hello,
My nikon D40 shutter release button will not allow me to take pictures indoors in low light with out flash. Can someone help with that problem.
I know I must be doing something wrong. I looked through the Nikon Manual and could not find an anwser.
Thank you,
Paulie
reply to this comment
My nikon D40 shutter release button will not allow me to take pictures indoors in low light with out flash. Can someone help with that problem.
I know I must be doing something wrong. I looked through the Nikon Manual and could not find an anwser.
Thank you,
Paulie
Brenda Paro (08/11/2008)
Are you using Auto Focus? The problem might be that the camera is having trouble focusing due to the low light. It won't let you shoot sometimes if it can't lock focus. Depending on what mode you're in, it may also be preventing the shot from firing because it senses there isn't enough light.
reply to this comment
Paulie (08/11/2008)
Brenda P,
Thanks for your anwser, The problem was trying to focus in low light. I appreciate the qiick and accurate response.
reply to this comment
Thanks for your anwser, The problem was trying to focus in low light. I appreciate the qiick and accurate response.
How do i apply the camera strap to the Nikon d40? (Chels123 — 07/13/2008)
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (07/19/2008)
There should be little loops on either side of the camera that the strap threads through. It should then double back on itself and sort of buckle closed. If you still have the manual, there's typically a page on how to do this within the beginning of the book.
reply to this comment
Paulie (09/23/2008)
Attach the camera strap as shown in your D40 manual on page 7 and follow the 4 steps.
Paulie
reply to this comment
Paulie
Is there a way to "select" individual photos to upload to the computer ? (LMActon — 07/12/2008)
On several Nikon point-and-shoot cameras, it is possible to "mark" or "select" specific selected photos to upload to the computer. I can't seem to find any way to do it with my D40. Does anyone know if there is a way to do it ? I usually input photos to my computer via the memory card slot on my HP printer, thus saving camera battery power and I would like to be able to "mark" or "select" a few individual photos in the camera before uploading from my 2GB memory card.
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (07/13/2008)
Hi Larry,
I don't know about doing this on the camera, but you should be able to do it on your computer? When you put the memory card in, you should be able to open the folder and click on the photos you want to choose for download. Does that help at all?
reply to this comment
I don't know about doing this on the camera, but you should be able to do it on your computer? When you put the memory card in, you should be able to open the folder and click on the photos you want to choose for download. Does that help at all?
bukit97 (09/03/2008)
If this message can still reach you, here is how I would do a selective copy of the pictures to the computer :
a. open a new folder in your computer to receive the pictures
b. open a thumbnail view of all the pictures in your card, using Irfanview.
c. click the first picture you want.
d. press control button and click the next picture, repeat until you have finished selecting all the pictures you want.
e. drag the selected pictures into the new folder you created.
reply to this comment
a. open a new folder in your computer to receive the pictures
b. open a thumbnail view of all the pictures in your card, using Irfanview.
c. click the first picture you want.
d. press control button and click the next picture, repeat until you have finished selecting all the pictures you want.
e. drag the selected pictures into the new folder you created.
Nikon D40 and Tamron 28-300mm VC lens (Paulie — 07/06/2008)
Hi,
Has anyone with a Nikon D40 tried the Tamron 28-300mm VC lens, if so how would you rate it. I have the kit lens 18-55mm lens and also the 55mm-200mm VR lens. I'm trying to eliminate taking the lens on and off the camera body to eliminate dust getting into the camera and onto the sensor, plus eliminate hauling another lens around. Whats your advice? I am very new to photography, if I knew about the dust factor when I purchased the camera, I would have bought the 28-300mm vc lens in the first place.
Thank you,
Paulie
reply to this comment
Has anyone with a Nikon D40 tried the Tamron 28-300mm VC lens, if so how would you rate it. I have the kit lens 18-55mm lens and also the 55mm-200mm VR lens. I'm trying to eliminate taking the lens on and off the camera body to eliminate dust getting into the camera and onto the sensor, plus eliminate hauling another lens around. Whats your advice? I am very new to photography, if I knew about the dust factor when I purchased the camera, I would have bought the 28-300mm vc lens in the first place.
Thank you,
Paulie
by James DeRuvo (07/10/2008)
I haven't used it, but Popular Photography ( popphoto.com/cameralenses/5... ) wasn't impressed:
CONCLUSIONS: This is not the lens for fast-breaking or active subjects, due to its sluggish AF, nor for full-frame shooters worried about light falloff at wide settings. But this new VC superzoom should reward everyone else -- macro shooters and DSLR users of all persuasions -- with its excellent distortion control and remarkable sharpness, even in low light, across a one-size-fits-all zoom range. And all in a conveniently compact, affordable package.
reply to this comment
CONCLUSIONS: This is not the lens for fast-breaking or active subjects, due to its sluggish AF, nor for full-frame shooters worried about light falloff at wide settings. But this new VC superzoom should reward everyone else -- macro shooters and DSLR users of all persuasions -- with its excellent distortion control and remarkable sharpness, even in low light, across a one-size-fits-all zoom range. And all in a conveniently compact, affordable package.
Paulie (07/10/2008)
Hello James ReRuvo,
Thank you for the information. Do you have any Idea how bad the sensor dust problem is when changing a lens. I change the lens maybe once or twice a month. I am usually shooting in grassy areas or at the zoo, which has mostly paved walks.
Thank you,
Paulie, again!!!
reply to this comment
Thank you for the information. Do you have any Idea how bad the sensor dust problem is when changing a lens. I change the lens maybe once or twice a month. I am usually shooting in grassy areas or at the zoo, which has mostly paved walks.
Thank you,
Paulie, again!!!
Brenda Paro (07/11/2008)
Hi Paulie,
The dust shouldn't really be that much of a problem. It's something to watch out for, but it shouldn't be a problem every single time you take the lens off. Are you certain you're getting the sensor clean? This link has some good info about cleaning the sensor of a D40:
dphoto.us/forum/showthread....
reply to this comment
The dust shouldn't really be that much of a problem. It's something to watch out for, but it shouldn't be a problem every single time you take the lens off. Are you certain you're getting the sensor clean? This link has some good info about cleaning the sensor of a D40:
dphoto.us/forum/showthread....
by James DeRuvo (07/11/2008)
I agree with Brenda on this. Changing your lenses is a seldom affair and unless you're in quite a wind storm, the effect of dust would be minimal, I would think. Besides, that's what air and blowers are for. ;)
reply to this comment
Paulie (07/11/2008)
Hi,
Thank you Brenda P and James DeRuvo,
I appreciate your help and advice. Brenda P as of yet I have not had a problem with dust on the sensor, it is a new camera and my first Digital DSLR. I have read and heard about the dust problem and was wondering how offen this can occur. I have a 18-55mm kit lens and a 55-200mm lens. Because of the dust problem I was thinking of buying a tamron 28-300mm lens to help solve the problem, by not having to change lenses.
James, I did purchase a Giotto blower and I hope that will be sufficient.
Thank you both for your time and advice,
Paulie
reply to this comment
Thank you Brenda P and James DeRuvo,
I appreciate your help and advice. Brenda P as of yet I have not had a problem with dust on the sensor, it is a new camera and my first Digital DSLR. I have read and heard about the dust problem and was wondering how offen this can occur. I have a 18-55mm kit lens and a 55-200mm lens. Because of the dust problem I was thinking of buying a tamron 28-300mm lens to help solve the problem, by not having to change lenses.
James, I did purchase a Giotto blower and I hope that will be sufficient.
Thank you both for your time and advice,
Paulie
What does the flashing indicate on my Nikon D40 (Paulie — 05/23/2008)
I experience Flashing when reviewing photo on the LCD. The flashing occures on light color objects like white clouds and roofs of cars ect. can someone tell me whats going on and what to do?
Thank you.
Paulie
reply to this comment
Thank you.
Paulie
Andrew Skinner (05/26/2008)
Paulie,
In the particular review mode you're looking at, the flashing most likely indicates an over-exposed section of the photo. When printing, it will be hard to discern what that portion of the photo is. The camera is simply suggesting that you dial down the exposure level.
In some photos, overexposing certain portions is necessary to capture the detail of the subject in a shadow or darker portion of a photo. I hope this has helped. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
reply to this comment
In the particular review mode you're looking at, the flashing most likely indicates an over-exposed section of the photo. When printing, it will be hard to discern what that portion of the photo is. The camera is simply suggesting that you dial down the exposure level.
In some photos, overexposing certain portions is necessary to capture the detail of the subject in a shadow or darker portion of a photo. I hope this has helped. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Paulie (06/07/2008)
Hello Andrew,
I read your anwser to my question but couldn't remmember if I thanked you. If I didn't I didn't mean too. I did click on best anwser. Again thank you. I'm new to photography and digital HQ, but enjoy reading all the questions and anwsers. Maybe I'll get to the point were I can anwser and help someone with their questions too.
Keep up the good work,
Paulie
6/7/08
reply to this comment
I read your anwser to my question but couldn't remmember if I thanked you. If I didn't I didn't mean too. I did click on best anwser. Again thank you. I'm new to photography and digital HQ, but enjoy reading all the questions and anwsers. Maybe I'll get to the point were I can anwser and help someone with their questions too.
Keep up the good work,
Paulie
6/7/08
Andrew Skinner (06/08/2008)
Paulie,
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any other issues or questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any other issues or questions. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Will a AF-S lens extender become available to extend a 55-200 mm above 200 mm (Macnorm — 05/22/2008)
I have a Macro filter set but also interested in an exteder.
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (05/26/2008)
If the extender works with a Nikon F mount, then you can extend that lens beyond 200mm. If it is a 2x extender, the effected focal length of the lens will be 110-400mm. Something like this Kenko 2x Teleconverter ( amazon.com/Kenko-2x-Telecon... ) should work. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
reply to this comment
Andrew
Macnorm (05/28/2008)
Thanks, Andrew, The Kenko 2X is were i want to go but Nikon says that at this time it will not work on the D-40 body but an update is pending. So I will wait. Too many $$$ for a dedicated AF-S above 200M.
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (05/28/2008)
I'm glad we could help. You might not need to wait. The Kenko teleconverter specs state that it does work with the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
If you feel we've answered your questions sufficiently, please mark it best answer. If not, we would be more than pleased to address any further questions you may have.
Andrew
reply to this comment
If you feel we've answered your questions sufficiently, please mark it best answer. If not, we would be more than pleased to address any further questions you may have.
Andrew
How can you keep the views of your photo on the screen longer? (erikw70 — 05/20/2008)
having trouble looking at photos taken, because they only last on view screen a few minutes
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (05/23/2008)
A few minutes? That's like 120 seconds, Erik. You probably mean seconds. If you need more, just go into review mode.
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Amateurish question: Does the D40 or similar entry level dSLRs have movie option? (rebel XT, Pentax KD100 or the Olympus E-410) (jtf2 — 05/20/2008)
As the question title suggests. Which entry level dSLR camera contains movie mode.. if any.
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (05/23/2008)
The thing about cameras with movie modes is that video on a still camera is a marketing ploy to make the buyer feel they have an all in one solution, which doesn't really provide quality results.
But DSLRs are all about quality imagery. And as such, they don't have movie modes. The D40 certainly doesn't. Neither does the XT, the KD100 nor the E410. DSLRs are specialized.
If movies are a priority for you, you may want to consider a point and shoot superzoom like the Canon S5IS or the Olympus SP570UZ, or even the Nikon P80.
reply to this comment
But DSLRs are all about quality imagery. And as such, they don't have movie modes. The D40 certainly doesn't. Neither does the XT, the KD100 nor the E410. DSLRs are specialized.
If movies are a priority for you, you may want to consider a point and shoot superzoom like the Canon S5IS or the Olympus SP570UZ, or even the Nikon P80.
AD (05/23/2008)
Thanks!
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (05/24/2008)
We're happy to help.
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
reply to this comment
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will place the question in the "Answered" category for all to see. Or, you can leave the question open for a little while longer and see what else gets posted.
Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
Does the D40 have a fast recovery time between pics? (kendrickcp — 05/14/2008)
I mostly take pictures of my children and usually the smile comes after I've taken the picture and then I have to wait before I can take another one. I have a Kodak easyshare right now which has been great other than the recovery time.
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (05/22/2008)
Performance Timing for the Nikon D40:
Startup Time: 0.4 seconds
Shutdown Time: 0.1 seconds
Play -> Record: 0.1 seconds
Record -> Play (max res): 1.0 seconds
Record -> Play (min res):
Shutter Lag, Full AF: 0.260 (W) - 0.260 (T) seconds
Shutter Lag, Man. Focus: 0.190 seconds
Shutter Lag, Prefocus: 0.098 seconds
Cycle Time Uncompressed Format: 0.57 seconds
Cycle Time Max Res: 0.60 seconds
Cycle Time Min Res: 0.60 seconds
Buffer Frames, Max Res: No limit
Continuous Mode Rate (fps): 2.50
Not too bad, I guess. Burst mode may be your best bet though.
reply to this comment
Startup Time: 0.4 seconds
Shutdown Time: 0.1 seconds
Play -> Record: 0.1 seconds
Record -> Play (max res): 1.0 seconds
Record -> Play (min res):
Shutter Lag, Full AF: 0.260 (W) - 0.260 (T) seconds
Shutter Lag, Man. Focus: 0.190 seconds
Shutter Lag, Prefocus: 0.098 seconds
Cycle Time Uncompressed Format: 0.57 seconds
Cycle Time Max Res: 0.60 seconds
Cycle Time Min Res: 0.60 seconds
Buffer Frames, Max Res: No limit
Continuous Mode Rate (fps): 2.50
Not too bad, I guess. Burst mode may be your best bet though.
Any suggestions of a better, sturdier lens, preferably NOT a Nikon product that would fit my D40 body? (annabenitez — 05/12/2008)
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (05/12/2008)
Anna,
I've had decent luck with Tamron ( tamron.com ) lenses. You might give those a shot.
When you say "sturdier," what kind of photography are you using the lenses for? I only ask because the Nikon lenses are generally very good.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I've had decent luck with Tamron ( tamron.com ) lenses. You might give those a shot.
When you say "sturdier," what kind of photography are you using the lenses for? I only ask because the Nikon lenses are generally very good.
Andrew
annabenitez (05/13/2008)
By "sturdier" I mean one that won't break as easy. I had the camera four months and the inside lens broke. The Nikon repair service are blaming it on "impact" but I know for a fact there was no impact. The manager at Ritz Camera says they "break very easy" and is trying to sell me a $600 replacement lens. If Nikon break so easy I would like to change brands but would prefer not to have to also invest in a new body. I will look into Tamron, thank you for your quick response.
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (05/13/2008)
Anna,
I'm glad we could help. I've actually never heard that Nikon lenses break easy, so I'll keep my eye out for that. It could explain whey they are generally less expensive than Canon lenses though.
As an aside, if you feel we've answered your question sufficiently, please mark it best answer. If not, I would be glad to field any other questions you may have. Good luck.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I'm glad we could help. I've actually never heard that Nikon lenses break easy, so I'll keep my eye out for that. It could explain whey they are generally less expensive than Canon lenses though.
As an aside, if you feel we've answered your question sufficiently, please mark it best answer. If not, I would be glad to field any other questions you may have. Good luck.
Andrew
how do I use the image comment to mark a certain picture (mgoldian1111 — 05/08/2008)
I would like to use the image comment feature to mark certain pictures
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (05/10/2008)
M.,
Image comment must be turned on through your set-up menu to mark pictures as you take them. When in simple mode, enter the CSM/Setup mode and use your camera's selector to choose "Image Comment." Press the selector to the right to select or deslect the option you want. After turning the option on, scroll back up and select "done."
After researching in your camera's manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ), it does not look like you can add comments after you've taken them without the feature on. Page 84 describes the particulars of inputting the comments as you take your pictures. Good luck.
Andrew
reply to this comment
Image comment must be turned on through your set-up menu to mark pictures as you take them. When in simple mode, enter the CSM/Setup mode and use your camera's selector to choose "Image Comment." Press the selector to the right to select or deslect the option you want. After turning the option on, scroll back up and select "done."
After researching in your camera's manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ), it does not look like you can add comments after you've taken them without the feature on. Page 84 describes the particulars of inputting the comments as you take your pictures. Good luck.
Andrew
Why do I get a resolution warning on enlargements (lritch3786 — 04/25/2008)
I have the D40, image quality is set on fine, image size is set on large. Shutterfly and Costco always don't recommend printing 8x10 or larger, even totally automatic shots with nothing out of the ordinary. Why?
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (04/28/2008)
Linda,
Are you cropping the images as well? If so, the crop could be degrading the overall resolution for enlargements.
What is your photo size that your taking? While you might have it set on "fine," it could be that you're not taking a large enough photo. You need to use the combo of "fine" and "large" photo size to get the largest photo. This will take up more room on your memory card though.
You can change the image size by clicking "info" then the "i" button, then image size, then select the size image you want to take. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
reply to this comment
Are you cropping the images as well? If so, the crop could be degrading the overall resolution for enlargements.
What is your photo size that your taking? While you might have it set on "fine," it could be that you're not taking a large enough photo. You need to use the combo of "fine" and "large" photo size to get the largest photo. This will take up more room on your memory card though.
You can change the image size by clicking "info" then the "i" button, then image size, then select the size image you want to take. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
dmichitti (04/29/2008)
Linda,
I believe that you are seeing a standard warning from those websites that really don't have anything to do with the actual picture you are trying to have developed. Just about any picture that you take with the D40 should turn out fine in 8x10.
I would recommend developing a couple with them and see if you think there are quality problems.
reply to this comment
I believe that you are seeing a standard warning from those websites that really don't have anything to do with the actual picture you are trying to have developed. Just about any picture that you take with the D40 should turn out fine in 8x10.
I would recommend developing a couple with them and see if you think there are quality problems.
lritch3786 (04/29/2008)
Thank you for the responses. I am aware that cropping can diminish quality, image size and quality are set on large and fine so I suspect Dave's answer may be true. Especially since most reviews rave about the d40 print quality. Thank you again!
Linda
reply to this comment
Linda
Which memory card to use with D40? (lctrudeau — 04/25/2008)
I am thinking about buying a D40 and wonder what is the best memory card to use with it? Also is it necessary to buy a back up battery?
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (04/29/2008)
Well, in addition to size, the speed of a card is even MORE important. Cards have different speeds. The faster a card is, the quicker it'll save the photo and cycle to be ready for another shot. In the end, your camera is only going to be as fast as it's slowest link in the chain. So check for speed when you purchase a card.
As for which type ... well, I like San Disk. It's a good mainstream card producer, as is Lexar. But remember the old addage that the cheaper the are, the more likely they may fail or become corrupted.
One last thing. Allow me to make an pitch for using several cards, rather than one large one. Reason being, insurance. Any memory card can fail or become corrupted. And when you're on vacation the last thing you want is to lose the opportunity to take pictures until you can recover that media card with a software utility. If your card goes bad, swapping another one for it at that moment is of advantage so you can keep taking pics. Then, later when you're in front of your PC, you can use a utility like "F-Recovery" ( [url=filerecoverytools.com/produ... ) to get back your pictures and recover your card.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on.
As for batteries ... well that largely depends on your shooting habits. If you're out and about alot, an extra battery is beneficial. In fact, it's beneficial for everyone. the last thing you want is for a battery to run out of power when you're trying to capture that "kodak moment" that won't come again.
reply to this comment
As for which type ... well, I like San Disk. It's a good mainstream card producer, as is Lexar. But remember the old addage that the cheaper the are, the more likely they may fail or become corrupted.
One last thing. Allow me to make an pitch for using several cards, rather than one large one. Reason being, insurance. Any memory card can fail or become corrupted. And when you're on vacation the last thing you want is to lose the opportunity to take pictures until you can recover that media card with a software utility. If your card goes bad, swapping another one for it at that moment is of advantage so you can keep taking pics. Then, later when you're in front of your PC, you can use a utility like "F-Recovery" ( [url=filerecoverytools.com/produ... ) to get back your pictures and recover your card.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on.
As for batteries ... well that largely depends on your shooting habits. If you're out and about alot, an extra battery is beneficial. In fact, it's beneficial for everyone. the last thing you want is for a battery to run out of power when you're trying to capture that "kodak moment" that won't come again.
lctrudeau (04/29/2008)
Thanks so much for the info!
reply to this comment
I'm looking the the D40 or the coolpix because I dont have a lot of camera experience. What do you recommend for just taking nonaction photos? (haleyann — 04/25/2008)
reply to this comment
steve mccall (04/26/2008)
hello mark
what you need is a good point and shoot
the panasonic ls80 is very good camera for taking simple photos
reply to this comment
what you need is a good point and shoot
the panasonic ls80 is very good camera for taking simple photos
haleyann (04/28/2008)
how about the cannon powershot A650IS?
reply to this comment
dmichitti (04/29/2008)
Mark,
I have the Canon SD750 and a Nikon D40x. The SD750 is a great point and shoot camera that will easily fit in your pocket and takes great pictures (and you can probably get one for around $150 if you catch it on sale). The D40x is a larger and more expensive camera, but you have the flexiblity of adding additional lenses as you go. I would think that you would be pretty happy going with the SD750.
reply to this comment
I have the Canon SD750 and a Nikon D40x. The SD750 is a great point and shoot camera that will easily fit in your pocket and takes great pictures (and you can probably get one for around $150 if you catch it on sale). The D40x is a larger and more expensive camera, but you have the flexiblity of adding additional lenses as you go. I would think that you would be pretty happy going with the SD750.
by James DeRuvo (05/02/2008)
Steve is really doing you a disservice in saying what you need is a good point and shoot. What you need is a good course in digital photography. Learning how to frame a picture and understanding how light is used to capture your images can do wonders to improve your snapshots. For instance, the rule of thirds can make your pictures much more interesting.
Additionally, I wouldn't walk away from the DSLR world just yet. Both the D40 and the Digital Rebel XTi or XSI are great entry level DSLRs with automatic functions that help soften the learning curve.
If you just want to be a shutter bug, then perhaps Steve has a point. And the SD750 is a good choice. But if photography is an interest and you want a camera to grow with you as you get more serious about it, having a good DSLR is the way to go IMNSHO.
reply to this comment
Additionally, I wouldn't walk away from the DSLR world just yet. Both the D40 and the Digital Rebel XTi or XSI are great entry level DSLRs with automatic functions that help soften the learning curve.
If you just want to be a shutter bug, then perhaps Steve has a point. And the SD750 is a good choice. But if photography is an interest and you want a camera to grow with you as you get more serious about it, having a good DSLR is the way to go IMNSHO.
Brenda Paro (07/10/2008)
I'm with James on this one. The dSLRs he's named are all "entry level" ones, meaning they're more advanced/ offer more options than a point and shoot, but aren't high level professional cameras that would be way more than what you need. I think if you're interested in learning photography, either the D40 or one of the Canon Rebels (XTI or XSI) would be a great choice. You're not buying too much but you're buying a camera you can grow into.
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (07/10/2008)
Thanks, Brenda. You're dead on as well. And the real investment is in the lenses. Bodies will come and go. Once you've moved beyond the capabilities of the XSi/D40, you can upgrade to a more advanced body and still use the lenses. Both are leading the pack at the moment.
reply to this comment
Cruiznbye (01/05/2009)
Mark, you didn't say what kind of "non-action" photos you were wanting to take. The point and shoots work fine for bright, outdoor scenery and posed shots. They are great "travel-log" tools. Fit in your pocket and can take snapshots of interesting things along the way. They have limited ability to capture action, people (other than posing for you), and events. They are also poor in dim or marginal lighting settings. If you're only interest is in outdoor scenery, close-up snapshots of friends using the flash, or something along those lines than a small point and shoot will work well.
But if you want to do more type of shooting and are willing to invest a little more, you'll find the XSi or D40 a great investment. With the kit lens you will be able to far exceed the capabilities on all the point and shoots. And if you find yourself more motivated, you can add specialty lenses for longer zooms, close-up macro pictures, and even portraits.
So it really comes down to what kind of shooting you want to do, both now and in the future. Some of us have both kinds of cameras. A pocket camera with us all the time, and a DSLR ready at a moments notice when we really want to "capture the moment." The current cream of the crop pocket cameras from Canon are the SD880IS and SD90IS. And the current entry DSLR are the Nikon D40/40x (smallest), and the Canon XSi. How about one of each kind? Just kidding!
reply to this comment
But if you want to do more type of shooting and are willing to invest a little more, you'll find the XSi or D40 a great investment. With the kit lens you will be able to far exceed the capabilities on all the point and shoots. And if you find yourself more motivated, you can add specialty lenses for longer zooms, close-up macro pictures, and even portraits.
So it really comes down to what kind of shooting you want to do, both now and in the future. Some of us have both kinds of cameras. A pocket camera with us all the time, and a DSLR ready at a moments notice when we really want to "capture the moment." The current cream of the crop pocket cameras from Canon are the SD880IS and SD90IS. And the current entry DSLR are the Nikon D40/40x (smallest), and the Canon XSi. How about one of each kind? Just kidding!
Can I turn off compression on a Nikon 40D when shooting in RAW? (PJross — 04/22/2008)
The compressed RAW files cannot be read by any of the PP software I know of. It appears to need Nikon Capture
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (04/24/2008)
Peter,
I went through the camera's manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ) pretty thoroughly and found that the only RAW image option is in compressed mode.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I went through the camera's manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ) pretty thoroughly and found that the only RAW image option is in compressed mode.
Andrew
by James DeRuvo (04/24/2008)
Peter. Have you tried Photoshop or Photoshop Elements? I was always under the impression that the benefit of RAW was that it WASN'T compressed! So isn't saving into a compressed RAW format rather a misnomer?
reply to this comment
PJross (04/24/2008)
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I also can't find a way of turning off the compression. I tried Photoshop and RAW Shooter without success. Neither can recognise the format.
By making the files specific to Nikon it ties the user to Nickon Capture which I hear is not much use.
I'm going to pursue the matter with Nikon as I believe they use the terms RAW and their compressed version of RAW interchangeably. If I had known about this I would not have bought the camera
reply to this comment
By making the files specific to Nikon it ties the user to Nickon Capture which I hear is not much use.
I'm going to pursue the matter with Nikon as I believe they use the terms RAW and their compressed version of RAW interchangeably. If I had known about this I would not have bought the camera
Andrew Skinner (04/25/2008)
Peter,
Paint Shop Pro ( corel.com/servlet/Satellite... ) by Corel actually recognizes Nikon RAW images and allows you to edit and save them as other file types. I use it to edit the photos I take and found it to be very powerful.
Andrew
reply to this comment
Paint Shop Pro ( corel.com/servlet/Satellite... ) by Corel actually recognizes Nikon RAW images and allows you to edit and save them as other file types. I use it to edit the photos I take and found it to be very powerful.
Andrew
by James DeRuvo (04/25/2008)
And it's a pretty good program. Before I made the switch to Photoshop, it was my platform of choice. But now, it's a little to frustrating for me to use. Hard to give up all the whistles and bells. Plus, there are tons more Photoshop tutorials on line.
Peter, how long have you had the camera? I'd say that's grounds for a return. Get your credit card company involved and see if it can be returned for a better model.
BTW - go here ( drchung.new21.net/lossy/ ). At the bottom, it lists a few software options to try.
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Peter, how long have you had the camera? I'd say that's grounds for a return. Get your credit card company involved and see if it can be returned for a better model.
BTW - go here ( drchung.new21.net/lossy/ ). At the bottom, it lists a few software options to try.
PJross (05/03/2008)
James/Andrew Thanks for all your help. I've resigned myself to the compressed output. Otherwise I'm very happy with the camera.
The frustrating thing is that compression was a valid route for manufacturers to take while storage was expensive. Now that cards and PC memory is cheap there's no need for compression.
Thanks again
reply to this comment
The frustrating thing is that compression was a valid route for manufacturers to take while storage was expensive. Now that cards and PC memory is cheap there's no need for compression.
Thanks again
by James DeRuvo (05/05/2008)
Much like the myth that more mega-pixels is better.
Thanks for posting the question, Peter!
reply to this comment
Thanks for posting the question, Peter!
Can the Nikon D40 take decent indoor volleyball action shots? (Mishell27 — 03/16/2008)
I am looking at a relatively affordable camera that can take clear pictures of indoor volleyball. I understand that the lighting is often poor in the gyms but I know there has to be something better. Can the NikonD40 handle the job? Could that camera or another recommended camera take good pictures in auto mode or are there specific settings that would improve the shots? Also, what lens would I need for close ups? I am a complete amateur but willing to take a class if necessary. Thanks for any info you could provide.
reply to this comment
Aditya D (03/17/2008)
Well the Nikon D40, as well as other body's are definitely capable of doing the job, but what it really comes down to is the lens that you're using. For the close ups and the sports shots in general you will definitely need a telephoto (fixed zoom) or telephoto zoom (adjustable zoom) lens. I'd recommend the telephoto zoom because it is much more versatile. Now, as far as indoor sports go, you'll need a lens with a quicker fstop because the artificial light makes it harder to take a picture than very bright sun light. In an ideal situation you'll need a lens with an f/2.8 value (make sure its genuine f/2.8 and not f/2.8-5.6). This will cost you a bit more than normal lenses because it captures the photo much faster, but is definitely worth the money. If you don't have that kind of money to spend on a lens, try getting the lowest f stop possible. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
reply to this comment
Mishell27 (03/25/2008)
I can see how this could get expensive very quickly. Thank you so much for your response. I looked into lenses and there are many that don't appear "genuine" in their f/stop values. What makes the range of f/2.8-5.6 not genuine? I feel like I need to take a class to make sense of all the f stop lens lingo. If I'm interpreting correctly, the lenses with the genuine f/2.8 value range between $700-$2100. What would my best camera/lens combo be for no more that $1000 total? I am a total beginner (as I'm sure you couldn't guess).
Thanks again for taking the time to help me. : )
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Thanks again for taking the time to help me. : )
Aditya D (03/25/2008)
Well, its not necessarily that they aren't "genuine," its just that at different zooms they won't give you an actual f/2.8. So at your highest zoom you're looking at only getting an f/5.6, which shooting a volleyball or basically any sports game you're going to be at your highest zoom regardless of indoor or outdoor. I would recommend getting the Nikon D40x (the one that just came out), you can find it for $500-550. Then for the lens, I would spend another $500 and get a Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8D (if you can find it for that price, it is kind of hard), usually its around $800. This will put you at around $1300, so... basically that's over your budget. So to keep the cost down, if you mainly plan on shooting volley ball games, get a standard zoom lens (one that can't really zoom in and out but has a constant focus) that is an f/2.8. The f/2.8 is crucial, the zoom can be adjusted for. Since the D40x has a 10mp sensor, this will give you giant photos with good resolution. Because you don't need photos that big, you can size them down and blow up a certain region of the photo to fit your needs, and still get a good quality print. I think what I just said makes sense, but if you need I can try and explain it differently. So go with a 150mm or 200mm telephoto lens, for example this one at B+H:
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/... you look under this link:
bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/845... can basically see everything that B and H has to offer for Nikon lenses, which is usually a pretty good selection, at low prices, from a trusted vendor.
Hope this helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
reply to this comment
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/... you look under this link:
bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/845... can basically see everything that B and H has to offer for Nikon lenses, which is usually a pretty good selection, at low prices, from a trusted vendor.
Hope this helps, if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
I accidentally pressed something so an info screen is constantly overlaying my pictures while I review them. How do I get rid of it??? (A1N2N3A4 — 03/04/2008)
The info screen says:
Camera :Nikon D40
Metering :Matrix
Shutter :1/60
Aperture :F5. 6
Exposure Mode :Auto
EXP.+/- :0. 0
Focal Length :55mm
Flash Mode :
reply to this comment
Camera :Nikon D40
Metering :Matrix
Shutter :1/60
Aperture :F5. 6
Exposure Mode :Auto
EXP.+/- :0. 0
Focal Length :55mm
Flash Mode :
Jean-Pierre Thibaudeau (03/04/2008)
Press the round button which is at the right of the LCD, at 6 o'clock or below the OK button. Press many times to go through the 4 cycle display of info. try it, you'll love it and will use it all the time.
reply to this comment
A1N2N3A4 (03/05/2008)
Wow I can't believe I didn't notice that! Thanks so much!!! That is awesome info though! I'm so glad I can see it now!
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What lens do you recommend for the Nikon D40? (boinkthiskat — 02/23/2008)
I have the D40 with the lens it came with and I am looking for a lens to zoom closer. What do you recommend I buy. I would like to zoom in pretty close. Thanks!
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (03/01/2008)
Kathy,
If you want a good telephoto lens, you can try the Nikon 70-300mm lens ( amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4... ). It has decent aperture capabilities and will offer great zoom. For a crazy amount of zoom, you could go for the Kenko 420-1600mm lens ( amazon.com/Kenko-420-1600mm... ) for Nikon cameras. It is at a great price, but you will definitely need a tripod or monopod to use it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
reply to this comment
If you want a good telephoto lens, you can try the Nikon 70-300mm lens ( amazon.com/Nikon-70-300mm-4... ). It has decent aperture capabilities and will offer great zoom. For a crazy amount of zoom, you could go for the Kenko 420-1600mm lens ( amazon.com/Kenko-420-1600mm... ) for Nikon cameras. It is at a great price, but you will definitely need a tripod or monopod to use it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
boinkthiskat (03/05/2008)
Thank you for your reply!! i appreciate it and I will consider the Kenko!
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (03/07/2008)
Kathy,
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
Doug Sinnott (03/17/2008)
The best zoom tele lens for the D40(or D40x) is the 18-200 Nikon Vibration Reduction(VR) lens.
It equates to a 70-300mm 35mm lens,and is light,easy to use,and can be bought off Ebay at a reasonable price(I paid around £130,plus P+P).
It compliments the D40 perfectly,and produces good,sharp results,with the added bonus of having anti-shake built in.
Doug
reply to this comment
It equates to a 70-300mm 35mm lens,and is light,easy to use,and can be bought off Ebay at a reasonable price(I paid around £130,plus P+P).
It compliments the D40 perfectly,and produces good,sharp results,with the added bonus of having anti-shake built in.
Doug
spots on the lens (phonebug — 02/05/2008)
I have little tiny spots on my lens like thousands..it isn't dust or the sensors....it's little tiny tiny dots I see them when I look threw the viewfinder..cleaned everything and they are still there. Does anyone else have that on there camera?...you have to look for them but they are there. Just want to know if they are suppose to be there or maybe there is something wrong with mine...I have the 17-85 image stabilizer lens that comes with the camera.
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (02/14/2008)
Cathy,
You may have some dust in the camera that you can't or pick up with a basic cleaning. I would recommend sending your camera out to be professionally cleaned. A place like Ritz Camera can send you unit out for less than $100 to have it cleaned in a couple weeks. Another issue may be scratches on your lens. You may want to switch the lens out and see if the problem goes away.
Andrew
reply to this comment
You may have some dust in the camera that you can't or pick up with a basic cleaning. I would recommend sending your camera out to be professionally cleaned. A place like Ritz Camera can send you unit out for less than $100 to have it cleaned in a couple weeks. Another issue may be scratches on your lens. You may want to switch the lens out and see if the problem goes away.
Andrew
phonebug (02/21/2008)
It's not dust....trust me...it's the focus screen...I think it's out of wack...
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (02/22/2008)
Cathy,
If you're positive it's not dust, I would get in touch with the Nikon service department ( nikonusa.com/template.php?g... ) for a warranty repair. Good luck.
Andrew
reply to this comment
If you're positive it's not dust, I would get in touch with the Nikon service department ( nikonusa.com/template.php?g... ) for a warranty repair. Good luck.
Andrew
low light shooting - NIKON D40 or SONY H9? (lupus — 02/03/2008)
low light shooting - NIKON D40 or SONY H9?
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (02/17/2008)
Mogwai,
I would put my vote in for the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a wide open aperture lens (f/1.4 or wider). You'll find that the dSLR gives a lot more functionality.
Andrew
reply to this comment
I would put my vote in for the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a wide open aperture lens (f/1.4 or wider). You'll find that the dSLR gives a lot more functionality.
Andrew
lupus (02/18/2008)
thanks a lot, though i already made up my mind for the SONY :)
reply to this comment
Andrew Skinner (02/21/2008)
Mogwai,
Thanks for stopping by though. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
reply to this comment
Thanks for stopping by though. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
Doug Sinnott (03/17/2008)
The Sony is not as good as the Nikon,as the sensor in the Nikon is much better at producing low-noise pictures in low light.
If you've picked the Sony,it's probably the wrong choice.
Overall the Nikon is a better camera for general photography,and I've used both cameras at different times.
reply to this comment
If you've picked the Sony,it's probably the wrong choice.
Overall the Nikon is a better camera for general photography,and I've used both cameras at different times.
I've heard that UV filters are recommended to protect my Nikkor 18-55 kit and 55-200 VR lenses. Which ones are best? Or will a lens hood do the trick (bchat — 01/22/2008)
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samrina (01/22/2008)
i would certainly recommend you invest in both. Filters can protect your expensive lenses in the day and night. Some filters act as filters and give your pictures a different perspective. Lens hoods can protect lenses in the day especially also from straying lights that might show in your photos. Both are inexpensive really. Verdict : Get both.
reply to this comment
bchat (01/22/2008)
Thanks for the advice CK! Now, what brand filters should I invest in?
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samrina (01/25/2008)
Tokina and Hoya filter lenses are good enough. Reasonable price. Not expensive.
reply to this comment
Doug Sinnott (03/17/2008)
Most brands of UV filters are perfectly adequate,and can be obtained on Ebay for a couple of pounds(plus postage),and will not affect your photographs.
As regards a lens hood,just remember to take it off if you use your flash,as it can cause shadows!
A good filter to get is a circular polarising filter,which is good for enhancing blue skies,and colours in general(outdoors).These are more expensive than UV filters,but can improve your pictures.
reply to this comment
As regards a lens hood,just remember to take it off if you use your flash,as it can cause shadows!
A good filter to get is a circular polarising filter,which is good for enhancing blue skies,and colours in general(outdoors).These are more expensive than UV filters,but can improve your pictures.
I am looking for a camera to shoot my grandsons basketball games . Is the D40 fast enough?? (KAREN62 — 01/08/2008)
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (01/09/2008)
Absolutely. YOu just want to be sure you practice two things ... prefocusing (do it often) and panning with the action. And remember that although the gyms lights may seem bright, you'll either want to shoot with a flash or go with a sports preset.
reply to this comment
KAREN62 (01/11/2008)
Thanks, I have a Cannon ESO Digital REbel/ESO 300D Digital and all of my pictures are blurred in the action shots. So its either me or my camera isn't fast enough. I thought about gettin the Nikon D-40. But I am going to practice prefocusing. What is sports preset?? Thanks again.
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (01/11/2008)
10 TIPS TO FASTER CAMERA PERFORMANCE:
there are also other tips to speed up your performance:
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
10. Faster lenses will also help. The 4stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
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there are also other tips to speed up your performance:
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
10. Faster lenses will also help. The 4stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
Larry (01/12/2008)
If the image is blurred due to subject movement, this can be eliminated by using a faster shutter speed and requires manual exposure control usually labeled Tv or S on the control dial. 1/100 second will usually stop moderate speed movement and 1/250 will freeze rapid movement typically. go faster if you need to. There is always a drawback to everything you do under manual control. When you force the shutter to open and close faster, it lets less light in so the iris has to open up to let more light in to get the exposure completed in less time. Opening the iris up reduces the depth of focus which may be acceptable or may not. So the idea is to speed the shutter up only as much as necessary to freeze the action. With indoor lighting this may not be possible without increasing the ISO number which will also increase the graininess of the image (just the same 800 speed film does). It all boils down to getting enough light into the camera to make the image and to make the image before anyone moves enough to notice it. That's one of the reasons the pro's will shoot their shots right as the basketball player reaches the apex of his jump while he or she is momentarily suspended in air. Everything you can do to balance these factors will improve your chance of getting the shot.
Have fun at the next game. Larry
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Have fun at the next game. Larry
Can the little latch that holds the flash down be repaired if broken? (kelliewalters28 — 01/07/2008)
My camera strap came lose while it was around my neck, and my camera fell to the ground. After picking it up and examining it I noticed that when I would try to push my flash down it wouldn't stay down. Furthering my investigation I saw that the little latch that holds the flash down broke off. I was trying to find out if that can be replaced, or what I'm going to have to do to fix my problem.
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by James DeRuvo (01/07/2008)
Sure it can be replaced. The question is, will it be worth the cost of repair. I doubt it would cost more than half the cost of the camera (which is the rule of thumb for completely replacing it). My recommendation is to send it in and get an estimate. Just be thankful it isn't a more serious problem.
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Larry (01/08/2008)
I wonder if your local camera shop might be able to tackle this repair or at least give you some guidance in getting it repaired as cheaply as possible
Larry
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Larry
best digital with built in wide angle lens for interiors? (mhammatt — 12/15/2007)
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Andrew Skinner (12/18/2007)
Your best bet for interior photography is to go with a dSLR camera and purchase a wide angle lens at 15mm or even 10mm. Your photos will capture a lot more than a point and shoot camera. While you can add fish-eye lenses to some cameras, you'll get a lot of edge distortion with them, and even some tunnel effect on the adapter tubes you need to use the lens. The lowest I've seen on any point and shoot is 28mm. I hope this helps.
Andrew
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Andrew
mhammatt (12/19/2007)
Thanks for your help...Do you have any particular camera with a wide angle lens you recommend? Are there any point and shoot cameraa that might be good enough? My budget needs to come into play. Thanks again.
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Andrew Skinner (12/20/2007)
You can find a good used or refurbished dSLR online. I would go for something like the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which I shoot with) or a Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You can find some pretty decent auctions for these cameras or similar ones on eBay. I got my first dSLR, the Canon Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) used with 3 lenses for under $400 a few years ago. It's well worth a look. In fact, if you get this message in time, there is a decent deal on a new one at this link ( cgi.ebay.com/Canon-Digital-... ) on eBay. It is a new camera, a wide angle lens, the standard 18-55mm lens, an external flash, 2GB memory card, battery, charger, and more. All for under $550 after shipping. That is a steal. Good luck.
Andrew
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Andrew
mhammatt (12/21/2007)
Thanks, Andrew I will check out ebay and go from there. mary
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Andrew Skinner (12/21/2007)
Good luck to you. I would recommend buying in country and checking out the sellers rating before bidding though.
Andrew
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Andrew
Nikon D40 or Rebel XT (gregChandler — 12/13/2007)
We had a budget of around $400 for a new camera and would like to get started in the world of dSLR's. It is looking like we are down to comparing the Nikon D40 6MP and the Canon Rebel XT 350D 8MP. I understand there is more to a good camera/picture than MP alone... so which of these 2 would you recommend? The D40 looks like it might be a little more expensive... is it worth it?... even with less MP?
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by James DeRuvo (12/14/2007)
Well, $400 will get you the body, but you'll be stuck with a 50mm lens. I'd save up for another month or two and then you can get a package with a great lens or two. As for if the D40 is worth the extra cost, only if you're buying a Nikon Lens to go with it, IMHO.
As for MP, well, in snapshots you won't see a difference. But in enlargements above 5x7, you'll be glad you have that extra 2MP of the XT.
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As for MP, well, in snapshots you won't see a difference. But in enlargements above 5x7, you'll be glad you have that extra 2MP of the XT.
Compair zoom of the D40 with the S5.... Help (Bozthegreat — 12/12/2007)
Folks, I need your help. I am considering both cameras the Cannon S5 and the Nikon D40. I would like a camera that is easy but would also let me play with the settings. I am going to be taking action softball pictures of players out on the field 25ft to 150ft away...
Please help me understand the S5 12x zoom plus optional 2x add on lens compaired to the D40 3.6x 18/55mm and optional 55/200mm lens.
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Please help me understand the S5 12x zoom plus optional 2x add on lens compaired to the D40 3.6x 18/55mm and optional 55/200mm lens.
Aditya D (12/17/2007)
The lens on the S5 has the SLR zoom equivalent of 36-432mm, so basically you're looking at twice the zoom with the small point and shoot over the SLR. But the pictures will not be as fast, nor can you control the shutter speed and fstop great enough to take most sports shots, especially some softball pictures. I would recommend investing in an SLR with a 300mm zoom lens, which you can find for not too expensive from a third party. Most people use 300mm for shooting softball/baseball. Also the D40 will let you grow later in your camera career rather than being very limited with the S5. hope this helps, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
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Doug Sinnott (03/17/2008)
Like most "bridge cameras",the S5 is not really fast enough to capture precise moments in most types of sports.There's always a slight delay in pressing the shutter button,and capturing the picture.
Framing the picture can be tricky as well.
A DSLR like the Nikon D40,with,say, the Nikon 55-200 VR(anti-shake) lens,will be ideal for what you need.
You never see professional sports photographers with bridge cameras as they are just not up to the job!
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Framing the picture can be tricky as well.
A DSLR like the Nikon D40,with,say, the Nikon 55-200 VR(anti-shake) lens,will be ideal for what you need.
You never see professional sports photographers with bridge cameras as they are just not up to the job!
Which of the less expensive SLR's would you recommend for someone looking to take pictures at MLB games?? (twinsfan5733 — 11/24/2007)
I read somewhere that the Nikon D40 isn't a good choice for those looking to take sports pictures. Is this accurate??
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Aditya D (11/24/2007)
As in reply to your other question, I like the Nikon D40 more than the Canon Rebel for sports shots, because usually with the Nikon my pictures have come out sharper for faster moving sports. Some people may disagree, and a lot of it is personal preferences, both this and the Canon are similar in speed, but I say go with the Nikon. Again, keep in mind you'll need a zoom lens of probably 300mm or more (more is probably better, especially if you're sitting higher up).
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Joe (01/26/2008)
I need to shoot a small bathroom interior, I am thinking about using a Nikon D40. What is the best wide-angle lens for that type of shot?
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Aditya D (01/28/2008)
I would recommend the Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8 lens. There's variations of this lens with different glass and different features, but I think you will be happiest with this lens for the kind of shooting you seem to be doing.
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How do I extend display time on the LCD screen? (mlsmith67 — 10/20/2007)
I can't find the auto timer screen as indicated page 78 of manual.
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samrina (10/22/2007)
Smith, you're right. I have been struggling with the camera following the instructions on Pg 78 and still failed set the monitor. Perhaps i should write to Nikon for help on this if nobody can help us. HELP !
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mlsmith67 (10/24/2007)
I finally figured it out. It is because the full menu is not showing. You have to choose the full menu option in the tools section (I think) to show the full menu and then the auto timer option will show and you can extend the display time.
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samrina (10/25/2007)
Finally i got it. Pleased as punch. Thanks Smith.
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mlsmith67 (11/01/2007)
My question is now answered. (I found the answer myself.)
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frances (03/11/2008)
you go to custom setting menu (the pencil icon on the left) then you scroll down from there and you will find the auto-timer menu. have fun!
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Nikon D40 or Canon XTi? (egrosman — 10/09/2007)
I can;t decide between the d40 and XTi. I have always shot Nikon, but I seem to see more pros using the Canons. I like that Canon has faster focusing...but is the image quality better? Any advice?
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by James DeRuvo (10/11/2007)
If you've always shot Nikon, the advantage you have is the ability to use all those Nikkor lenses with your D40. Some may only be in manual, but so what. IT'S A NIKKOR LENS. Doesn't get much better than that. And I'm a Canon man.
Still, that XTi does have some great features including the sonar lens cleaning option and the 9 point autofocus. Very Tempting.
For comparison, you may want to check out this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP... ). It takes pictures with each and you can compare them side by side.
But in the end, when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
reply to this comment
Still, that XTi does have some great features including the sonar lens cleaning option and the 9 point autofocus. Very Tempting.
For comparison, you may want to check out this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP... ). It takes pictures with each and you can compare them side by side.
But in the end, when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
radswim (10/11/2007)
I also agree with James...regarding the Nikon. If you have always shot the Nikon platform then you can still use your lenses. The other great thing about the D40, is that the new upgrade to the D40x goes from 6.1 megapixels to 10.2! The Nikon doesn't change much in their functions when it comes to using the menu screen and finding something as simple as the format option etc. So, you do have that advantage as well. I just switched from the Nikon platform to the Canon and I am relearning the entire camera (kind of fun....Canon makes a great camera), **I only switched because of a theft of all my equipment**. Otherwise I would still be shooting Nikon! I have to also Agree with James on the 9 point auto focus...WOW! Good luck I hope this helps you!
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How do I stop the histogram display? (karenkool — 10/08/2007)
I can only find a small paragraph in the manual and it only mentions what a histogram is, but it doesn't instruct on how to remove that graph from the playback display.
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by James DeRuvo (10/11/2007)
Check the setup menu. It'll be in there.
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karenkool (10/11/2007)
Actually, I've checked the setup menu a millions times and it's not there, which is why it was so frustrating. But a friend was able to answer my question. In playback mode one must use the toggle button, pressing down until the histogram is no longer displayed.
Thanks anyway, James.
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Thanks anyway, James.
by James DeRuvo (10/12/2007)
That's good to know. Tell your friend to log on so you can give him the points. LOL.
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Kevin G. (11/03/2007)
I had this exact same problem with my Nikon D40x. The problem can be easily fixed by doing two things. First, pull out the battery so you reset the electronics of the camera. Secondly, push down the playback button and then use the toggle up or down position to change the view during playback. The toggle button has "OK" written in its center. After finding the view you like, just hit the playback switch to go back to picture taking mode and it should be set.
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frank (12/04/2007)
I,m thinking of getting the D40 as a starter camera, is it easy to use, instructions easy to follow.
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by James DeRuvo (12/04/2007)
It'll have many auto features, but it's more of an intermediate rig, IMHO, for those who have experience in 35mm, but are transitioning into the digital realm. For a complete beginner, my recommendation is the Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
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alc0ttk (09/22/2008)
Thank you, thank you for answering this question. My D40X has been stuck in this mode the entire vacation with no explanation in the manual or Nikon D40X For Dummies as to how to remove it. I also have no idea how I got it in this mode to begin with! Thank you so much for your help.
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Sharon (11/26/2009)
Just wanted to say thank you. I couldn't find an answer in the manual anywhere. So frustratng! I was so thankful to find the answers on this web page.
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Does it come with internal flash? Does it come with a flash attachment? (dlipscomb01 — 09/30/2007)
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bukit97 (10/01/2007)
The answer is Yes for both.
I find the built in flash is good enough for normal use. But if you need more powerful flash, there is a hot shoe for you to attach the dedicated flash SB400.
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I find the built in flash is good enough for normal use. But if you need more powerful flash, there is a hot shoe for you to attach the dedicated flash SB400.
egrosman (10/09/2007)
Yes, there is a pop-up flash, which works well for "normal" picture taking uses. Like all SLRs out of the standard box kit, they do not come with an additional flash to attach to the camera. There is a spot (on the top of the camera body) where you can attach a more powerful flash if needed. This totally depends on the type of photographs you take.
One thing that most reviews will not mention is that the D40 pop-up flash is exceptionally quiet. This was a very good design move by Nikon.
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One thing that most reviews will not mention is that the D40 pop-up flash is exceptionally quiet. This was a very good design move by Nikon.
Does the Nikon D40 place a Date/Time Stamp on the pictures when printed? (bdcohen — 09/26/2007)
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by James DeRuvo (09/26/2007)
Simply put, you can't really get that feature anymore unless you do it in a software utility like photoshop. In film cameras, date backs would expose light the film in the form of date and time so it was literally burned into the negative image.
As the digital file is marked by a date and time when it's saved, the use of a date stamp feature in digital cameras has lost popularity amongst camera manufacturers as a feature. There are software utilities that can add a date/stamp on a batch of files, however, google is your friend.
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As the digital file is marked by a date and time when it's saved, the use of a date stamp feature in digital cameras has lost popularity amongst camera manufacturers as a feature. There are software utilities that can add a date/stamp on a batch of files, however, google is your friend.
kingtim11 (09/27/2007)
I currently use ASDSEE 4 as my photo proram. After you open the photo to review it you can click on properties on the top menue bar and a drop down will display everything about the photo
ie. camera, focal length of lens, camera program, shutter speed, f stop histogram info, type(jpeg, etc) pixel resolution and much more.
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ie. camera, focal length of lens, camera program, shutter speed, f stop histogram info, type(jpeg, etc) pixel resolution and much more.
by James DeRuvo (09/29/2007)
That's a cool program. THanks for the hint, Tim.
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AlexP (10/22/2007)
Here is "TimeToPhoto" software to put date/time from EXIF to photos automatically:
avpsoft.com/products/timeto...
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avpsoft.com/products/timeto...
jimboyank (12/19/2008)
As the Nikon D40 ran the ‘file storage system’ on it’s DS cards it was found that a ‘total flat’ battery would cause the camera to re-date the first file and the LAST file on the card to the date when you re-charge the camera. It is always best to open the file in photoshop and change the exposure date in setting. It is best to remove your storage card from the D40 if you think you will be storing the camera. Though its not a problem I found it to re-date the first file and change the exposure settings. After checking this forum I found it a constant issue with the D40 and hopefully changed with introduction on the D40X.
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jimboyank (12/19/2008)
i had a similar issure with the D40 storage, The camera battery ran flat and after charging it totally wiped the time and date of the exposure and replace the entry file and the exit file with the date or recharge. After contacting the Nikon support line (0800 5559123) they advise it was a write issue on the drive, ie, a software issue. The D40 is regarded as a 'Hobby camera' so should affect many but to store expose details is important. I agree as I change my details in Photoshop and found the first file, around 2 months old to be re-dated and stamped different. a real pain to sort but it can be sorted.
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can I use a tamron 55-200 with my nikon d40? (anna12 — 09/22/2007)
Wanted to surprise my husband with a new lens for his Nikon d40 camera.I was told that only certain lens work on this camera. The young kids at the store assured me this Tamron lens will work. Now I dont think it will auto focus!
Should I take it back?
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Should I take it back?
by James DeRuvo (09/24/2007)
Here's the word from Nikon:
[i[Compatible Lenses*1: Nikon F mount with AF coupling and AF contacts Type G or D AF Nikkor: 1) AF-S, AF-I: All functions supported; 2) Other Type G or D AF Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus; 3) PC Micro-Nikkor 85mm f/2.8D: Can only be used in mode M; all other functions supported except autofocus; 4) Other AF Nikkor*1/AI-P Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus and 3D Color Matrix Metering II; 5) Non-CPU: Can be used in mode M, but exposure meter does not function; electronic range finder can be used if maximum aperture is f/5.6 or faster; 6) IX Nikkor lenses cannot be used
*1. Excluding lenses for F3AF [/i]
That means that it works with AF-S and AF-I lenses in autofocus mode and will work with other lenses in manual focus mode ONLY. The reason for this is that it needs the motor in the lens to autofocus, it won't drive the focusing screw on non AF-S or AF-I lenses.
Unless the salesman showed you how it functions in autofocus mode, I'm betting he sold you the wrong lens to make a "spiff" (commission) that is usually offered by third party lens manufacturers.
Trust me, take it back and get a nikon lens.
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[i[Compatible Lenses*1: Nikon F mount with AF coupling and AF contacts Type G or D AF Nikkor: 1) AF-S, AF-I: All functions supported; 2) Other Type G or D AF Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus; 3) PC Micro-Nikkor 85mm f/2.8D: Can only be used in mode M; all other functions supported except autofocus; 4) Other AF Nikkor*1/AI-P Nikkor: All functions supported except autofocus and 3D Color Matrix Metering II; 5) Non-CPU: Can be used in mode M, but exposure meter does not function; electronic range finder can be used if maximum aperture is f/5.6 or faster; 6) IX Nikkor lenses cannot be used
*1. Excluding lenses for F3AF [/i]
That means that it works with AF-S and AF-I lenses in autofocus mode and will work with other lenses in manual focus mode ONLY. The reason for this is that it needs the motor in the lens to autofocus, it won't drive the focusing screw on non AF-S or AF-I lenses.
Unless the salesman showed you how it functions in autofocus mode, I'm betting he sold you the wrong lens to make a "spiff" (commission) that is usually offered by third party lens manufacturers.
Trust me, take it back and get a nikon lens.
BRIAN BLACKMAN (08/05/2009)
compatible lenses for nikonD40 camera
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What digital point and shoot camera(s) do you recommend for taking indoor shots of sculpture? or portraits? (larichhall — 09/22/2007)
I need to take pictures of my sculptures for a portfolio. Could you recommend a digital point and shoot camera that takes good indoor shots?
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by James DeRuvo (09/22/2007)
Alot of taking pictures of scuptures and still life will have more to do with lighting your object, rather than the camera you use. Learn the basics of good three point lighting. ( mediacollege.com/lighting/t... )
Also create a contrasting backdrop which will create "negative space" and direct the viewer's eye to the piece and not the surroundings. You'll also want to invest in a good solid tripod with a fluid head.
Camera wise, what's your' budget? Ideally, since this is for your portfolio, a good digital SLR like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will yield you spectacular results.
If spending over $1000 makes you balk, there's a good midrange camera like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a mode is perfect for the kind of photography you're shooting.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.
If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
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Also create a contrasting backdrop which will create "negative space" and direct the viewer's eye to the piece and not the surroundings. You'll also want to invest in a good solid tripod with a fluid head.
Camera wise, what's your' budget? Ideally, since this is for your portfolio, a good digital SLR like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will yield you spectacular results.
If spending over $1000 makes you balk, there's a good midrange camera like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a mode is perfect for the kind of photography you're shooting.
It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.
If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.
steve mccall (09/22/2007)
the best point and shoot camera for this type photo is a camera from the lumix range
depending on your budget either go for the new fz8 or the fz7 which is older but is now
available at very good prices
reasons: 1. great lens 2. great auto focus with spot metering which is very useful for sculptures
here is an example of a photo taken with panasonic fz7
flickr.com/photos/markbridg...
reply to this comment
depending on your budget either go for the new fz8 or the fz7 which is older but is now
available at very good prices
reasons: 1. great lens 2. great auto focus with spot metering which is very useful for sculptures
here is an example of a photo taken with panasonic fz7
flickr.com/photos/markbridg...
larichhall (09/22/2007)
Both James and Steve gave very informative answers, each with links for follow ups. It's difficult to select best answer here, since I learned for both of you.Keep up the good advice.
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by James DeRuvo (09/24/2007)
Rock, paper, scissors? Seriously, Linda. If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will close out the question. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
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IS IT BETTER THAN A CANON 40OD? (marianned — 09/21/2007)
WOULD YOU RECCOMEND THIS over the canon 400d?
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by James DeRuvo (09/22/2007)
For comparison, you may want to check out this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP... ). It takes pictures with each and you can compare them side by side.
Looking at both, they're pretty closely matched. I give the edge to the D40 as it seems to have a more realistic look to the indoor portrait exposure. But both would do equally well for you.
But when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
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Looking at both, they're pretty closely matched. I give the edge to the D40 as it seems to have a more realistic look to the indoor portrait exposure. But both would do equally well for you.
But when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
marianned (09/22/2007)
Thank you Mark!!!
Hugs
Marianne x
reply to this comment
Hugs
Marianne x
by James DeRuvo (09/24/2007)
Mark?
reply to this comment
marianned (09/24/2007)
lol oops James
why I said Mark I will never know dohhhh
Marianne
reply to this comment
why I said Mark I will never know dohhhh
Marianne
by James DeRuvo (09/25/2007)
Well Marianne, as my dad used to say - you can call me anything except late to dinner!
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will close out the question. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
reply to this comment
BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will close out the question. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!
marianned (09/25/2007)
Will close it now
and thanks...Don't be late for dinner ;-)
Marianne
reply to this comment
and thanks...Don't be late for dinner ;-)
Marianne
whats the best option on the d40 for clear outdoor pictures? (silus — 09/19/2007)
like (portrait with the sun behind..outdoor portrait..etc
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by James DeRuvo (09/22/2007)
To be absolutely clear, I recommend shooting with a flash, even in outdoors in daylight. The flash makes your subject "pop" and can really add dimension to your shots.
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Doug Sinnott (03/17/2008)
Set the camera on Auto,(not "P")and the flash will pop up if required(i.e. back lit portraits,etc.),but otherwise the camera does all the work for you,and will give you good results time after time.
Simply "point and shoot"!
Doug
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Simply "point and shoot"!
Doug
I have the the Canon 40d-iso max is 1600 or 3200? (pr200 — 09/14/2007)
The instruction manual said to adjust in the function (under Data) to enable the camera to 3200 iso--however it does not show up in the readouts---the max I can adjust the iso is 1600? Where does the H appear in the readout? How can I get the camera to read H or 3200?
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by James DeRuvo (09/15/2007)
ISO Speed Range
Equivalent to ISO 100-1600* (in 1/3-stop or whole stop increments), ISO speed can be expanded to ISO 3200
I'm going to have to defer to Canon Tech support on the rest as the 40D is too new for me to have taken it through it's paces.
reply to this comment
Equivalent to ISO 100-1600* (in 1/3-stop or whole stop increments), ISO speed can be expanded to ISO 3200
I'm going to have to defer to Canon Tech support on the rest as the 40D is too new for me to have taken it through it's paces.
Karl Monk (10/21/2007)
3200, you have to go to custome functions and set High
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Using Nikon speedlight SB M on D40 ? (samrina — 08/31/2007)
I tried using an old model Nikon speedlight SB M on my Nikon D40. It works however, the D40 in-built flash also pops up when the SB M speedlight is in use. I also notice the shoe of the SB M is different from the Nikon speedlight SB 400 (the recommended model to use on D40). Would the prolonged use of the old SB M spoil my D40? The SB M model is stronger than the SB 400 that's why i like it.
reply to this comment
Matt (09/11/2007)
I would strongly suggest writing to Nikon and getting a written answer on this so you have it for your records if anything goes wrong. Using the older model speedlight shouldn't be a problem, but I'm critical on compatibility issues on everything :)
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Othello Dave (09/19/2007)
I've just contacted Nikon about this and they have replied within 30 minutes. Their reply is as follows:
Good Day,
Thank you for contacting Nikon Asia Technical Support. Your case has been forwarded to us.
We will assist you from here.
Using SB-M will not damage the DSLR camera as the SB-M only have a triggering terminal for the camera to trigger off the flash.
Do note that your flash will have to be in M or Auto mode.
Thank you once again for your support on Nikon Products. We hope that we have addressed your concerns.
Please feel free to contact us for more information.
With Regards,
Nikon Singapore Pte Ltd
Technical Support
80 Anson Road
#10-01/02
Fuji Xerox Towers
Singapore 079907
Operating Hours : Mon to Fri ( 9AM to 12PM, 1PM to 5PM)
reply to this comment
Good Day,
Thank you for contacting Nikon Asia Technical Support. Your case has been forwarded to us.
We will assist you from here.
Using SB-M will not damage the DSLR camera as the SB-M only have a triggering terminal for the camera to trigger off the flash.
Do note that your flash will have to be in M or Auto mode.
Thank you once again for your support on Nikon Products. We hope that we have addressed your concerns.
Please feel free to contact us for more information.
With Regards,
Nikon Singapore Pte Ltd
Technical Support
80 Anson Road
#10-01/02
Fuji Xerox Towers
Singapore 079907
Operating Hours : Mon to Fri ( 9AM to 12PM, 1PM to 5PM)
samrina (09/19/2007)
Dear Othello Dave, thank you for forwarding my question to Nikon. That was a thoughtful act !
Best rgds
CK (samrina)
reply to this comment
Best rgds
CK (samrina)
How can I look at the image I'm about to shoot on the display screen of my Nikon D40? (Bigd — 08/28/2007)
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bukit97 (08/28/2007)
For D40, the only way you can see and compose the image you are about to shoot is through the view finder.
Unlike compact digitals, the LCD screen of dSLRs like D40 is only for viewing the pictures taken, adjusting shutter speed, aperture, ISOs and so on. Hence the development of a new type of dSLRs with the so-called " Live View System" first reported by Olympus, but now also found in some models of Canon and Panasonic with a different name.
reply to this comment
Unlike compact digitals, the LCD screen of dSLRs like D40 is only for viewing the pictures taken, adjusting shutter speed, aperture, ISOs and so on. Hence the development of a new type of dSLRs with the so-called " Live View System" first reported by Olympus, but now also found in some models of Canon and Panasonic with a different name.
by James DeRuvo (08/28/2007)
The manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ) of the D40 clearly states that photographs are to be framed in the viewfinder (pg 14). After taking the photo, you can view the photo on the LCD screen and determine if you want to keep it or delete it.
However, to keep the monitor from turning off, you can change the "auto off" time of the monitor to between 4 seconds and 10 minutes (pg 78). Just remember though that it sucks up the battery power and lessens the battery life. Also, the monitor will turn off when the shutter release is pressed.
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However, to keep the monitor from turning off, you can change the "auto off" time of the monitor to between 4 seconds and 10 minutes (pg 78). Just remember though that it sucks up the battery power and lessens the battery life. Also, the monitor will turn off when the shutter release is pressed.
How can I look at the image I'm about to shoot on the display screen of my Nikon D40? (Bigd — 08/28/2007)
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baxter (08/28/2007)
you cannot. use the view finder.
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jpollano33 (08/28/2007)
Hi Dave:
The D40 does not allow preview on the display screen. It is really better to use the viewfinder because you can hold the camera more steady when shooting. The display screen is nice and bright and used to view and correct the photo. It is also great to view all shooting information on the screen.
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The D40 does not allow preview on the display screen. It is really better to use the viewfinder because you can hold the camera more steady when shooting. The display screen is nice and bright and used to view and correct the photo. It is also great to view all shooting information on the screen.
by James DeRuvo (09/08/2007)
Not to mention the viewfinder doesn't have to compete with the ambient light that an LCD screen would.
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Manual Exposure? (cmg1289 — 08/13/2007)
I need a digital camera with manual exposure times for college.
I want a digital camera with manual focusing for my own personal use.
I'm not going to buy this and find out I can't even use it, right?
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I want a digital camera with manual focusing for my own personal use.
I'm not going to buy this and find out I can't even use it, right?
bukit97 (08/13/2007)
The last statement makes sense, and the good news is that taking pictures with digital cameras is as simple as point and shoot.
There is a chip inside the camera body that takes care of focusing, aperture, speed, white balance, ISOs and flash to give you the picture you want, provided you let the camera decide by setting the mode dial to auto.
If you want refinements, the sort of control you want over the ' exposure time ' and ' manual focusing ', all the digital SLRs, Nikon D40 included, will let you do it, while the chip takes care of the rest.
For D40, the controls are set by turning the Mode dial on top of the camera. On it, besides Auto, there are letters like P,S, A, M. Most user choose the easy way of ' Turn the on switch, set mode dial to Auto, point to the subject and press the shutter button. ' That will be your first picture to boost your confidence.
Turn the dial to ' S ', lets you control ' exposure time ' which is the shutter speed. Hold the camera with both hands, with the mode dial set to ' S ', press the ' + ' button with your left thumb. The screen lights up and the speed is shown above a horizontal bar. Use your right thumb, turn the wheel that lies just below the mode dial. Turning left decreases the speed, right increases the speed, and you can see the change on the screen.
If the screen disappears before you finish, press the ' + ' button again.
Last question, ' Manual focusing' :
There is a switch labeled as A/M on the left hand side of the lens.
Slide it to ' M ' lets you focus manually. The focusing ring lies just behind the lens cap. Turn it left or right until your subject is in focus, then press the shutter release button.
Be rest assured, taking pictures with D40 is really that simple and most people can do it.
reply to this comment
There is a chip inside the camera body that takes care of focusing, aperture, speed, white balance, ISOs and flash to give you the picture you want, provided you let the camera decide by setting the mode dial to auto.
If you want refinements, the sort of control you want over the ' exposure time ' and ' manual focusing ', all the digital SLRs, Nikon D40 included, will let you do it, while the chip takes care of the rest.
For D40, the controls are set by turning the Mode dial on top of the camera. On it, besides Auto, there are letters like P,S, A, M. Most user choose the easy way of ' Turn the on switch, set mode dial to Auto, point to the subject and press the shutter button. ' That will be your first picture to boost your confidence.
Turn the dial to ' S ', lets you control ' exposure time ' which is the shutter speed. Hold the camera with both hands, with the mode dial set to ' S ', press the ' + ' button with your left thumb. The screen lights up and the speed is shown above a horizontal bar. Use your right thumb, turn the wheel that lies just below the mode dial. Turning left decreases the speed, right increases the speed, and you can see the change on the screen.
If the screen disappears before you finish, press the ' + ' button again.
Last question, ' Manual focusing' :
There is a switch labeled as A/M on the left hand side of the lens.
Slide it to ' M ' lets you focus manually. The focusing ring lies just behind the lens cap. Turn it left or right until your subject is in focus, then press the shutter release button.
Be rest assured, taking pictures with D40 is really that simple and most people can do it.
cmg1289 (08/13/2007)
That's exactly the answer I wanted to hear!
Thanks. =)
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Thanks. =)
I own a 55-200mm Nikon lens. Can someone tell me this lens is equivalent to how many times optical zoom? (samrina — 07/26/2007)
Just like we see the specs of a compact digital camera which shows the number of times digital zoom. Surely the sLR lenses also can be interpreted into no. of times of zoom.
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Matt (07/26/2007)
Consider 35mm a 1x zoom. 200/35 = 5.71, or about a 6x zoom. It's the same reasoning that a 35-110mm cameras is considered a 3x optical zoom.
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I like most aspects of the Nikon D40 and am leaning toward getting one; how do users feel about its optical zoom? (pixlady100 — 07/24/2007)
I was encouraged to not worry as much about megapixels as about optical zoom. Will the D-40 give me enough of an optical zoom? I shoot many photos in classrooms (from the rear) where students are communicating in sign language so hands are flying! Will the D-40 give me stable clear photos from a distance? I always shoot in automatic program.
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bukit97 (07/25/2007)
Optical zoom depends very much on the lens you use. a 50-500mm zoom lens will give you more zoom range than the kit lens of 18-55mm.
For the second question, ' stable and clear photos from a distance', you probably need a VR lens or a tripod.
Log on to <a href="dpreview.com/news/0608/0608... site</a> to have a look at the Nikon AFS VR 70-300mm. It is equivalent to 105-450mm and should be more than enough to meet you class room needs.
For more choices, you may wish to take a look at the 17 nos of Sigma lenses designed for D40 at <a href="imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1... location</a>
reply to this comment
For the second question, ' stable and clear photos from a distance', you probably need a VR lens or a tripod.
Log on to <a href="dpreview.com/news/0608/0608... site</a> to have a look at the Nikon AFS VR 70-300mm. It is equivalent to 105-450mm and should be more than enough to meet you class room needs.
For more choices, you may wish to take a look at the 17 nos of Sigma lenses designed for D40 at <a href="imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1... location</a>
Tarheel (09/11/2007)
Uh this is a DSLR so it doesn't have optical zoom you have to buy a lenses for because the lenses in the kit is not a zoom lens. a 200mm lens will work for you well enough, and you can always upgrade your zoom.
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Alisha (11/13/2007)
What these people are trying to get at is that with an SLR camera (the D40), the zoom capability is entirely dependent upon the lens that is used in conjunction with the camera body. The D40 comes packaged with a 18-55mm lens; as far as zoom goes this in and of itself is much at all. BUT the point is that you have the ability to purchase lenses that are capable of a wider range. The Nikon AF-S 70-300 mm VR lens previously mentioned is a nice option, as is the Nikon 55-200mm VR, which is cheaper than the aforementioned lens and should be more than enough for your use (plus it's just an awesome lens!).
Good luck!
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Good luck!
does the TAMRON 80-210mm F/4.5-5.6 lense fit the nikon d40? (ahiad — 07/13/2007)
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kimkidney (07/15/2007)
Hello: I asked Tamron if their AF lenses would work
on the D40. They answered the manual focus would work
but the autofocus would not. Tamron advises their
autofocus lenses do not have focus motors in them. So,
when considering non-Nikon lenses for the D40, find out
if they have AF-S focus motors in them (like Nikon), or
HSM motors in them (like Sigma. Tokina seems to be in the
same boat as Tamron at the present time.
reply to this comment
on the D40. They answered the manual focus would work
but the autofocus would not. Tamron advises their
autofocus lenses do not have focus motors in them. So,
when considering non-Nikon lenses for the D40, find out
if they have AF-S focus motors in them (like Nikon), or
HSM motors in them (like Sigma. Tokina seems to be in the
same boat as Tamron at the present time.
Will the NEW Tamron 18-250 Di II work on my Nikon D40? (hbalben — 07/06/2007)
reply to this comment
bukit97 (07/07/2007)
Yes, there is a version of Tamron 18-250 Di II with Nikon mount.
When you go shopping for this lens, make sure you specify the correct mount, then you won't have problems.
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When you go shopping for this lens, make sure you specify the correct mount, then you won't have problems.
hbalben (07/07/2007)
Thanks for your answer.
I was able to contact Tamron Technical and they told me that their lens will NOT work on the D40 or the D40x. Something about internal focus drive not being in the lens? Anyway-- too bad!
reply to this comment
I was able to contact Tamron Technical and they told me that their lens will NOT work on the D40 or the D40x. Something about internal focus drive not being in the lens? Anyway-- too bad!
Does D40 have optical stabilization of the image? I didn't saw this in any specification of it... (Mirmar — 07/05/2007)
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by James DeRuvo (07/05/2007)
Well if it's not in the specs, then it doesn't have it. Several reviews I have read have confirmed to me that it does NOT.
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Cliff (07/10/2007)
In the SLR world optical stabilization is usually found in the lens, not in the camera body. Both Canon and Nikon are like this. Nikon's terminology for this is "VR" which stands for vibration reduction. The good news is you can buy a Nikon VR lens, and you would get image stabilization with it! (Yes, on the D40). With a D40, any lens you buy should also be AF-S or AF-I, and so the selection of lenses that are both AF-S and VR are probably pretty limited. One great option would be the 18-200mm AF-S VR.
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Subject too dark on auto. (newengland37 — 07/04/2007)
In my first experience with the D-40 I found that I could rarely get good results on Auto. Often the subject was too dark so I went to M and used flash. After doing some reading I'm getting the idea I should use P setting most of the time? Is this correct?
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (07/05/2007)
The "P" setting on this camera (Program Automatic Exposure) is the equivalent of what most people think of as an Auto setting- the camera sets the f/stop and shutter speed for you. Setting it to 'A' means you are using aperture priority (you set aperture, camera sets shutter speed) and S mode is shutter priority. M is full manual.
If you want the camera to handle the lighting situation, definitely stick with the P mode. P also makes it easy to override the program settings and change f/stop or shutter speed if you so desire, then go back to the standard program.
Here's a good link on basic use of all of this that helped me out a lot:
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u...
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If you want the camera to handle the lighting situation, definitely stick with the P mode. P also makes it easy to override the program settings and change f/stop or shutter speed if you so desire, then go back to the standard program.
Here's a good link on basic use of all of this that helped me out a lot:
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u...
Cliff (07/10/2007)
Brenda nailed it pretty well... however whether you use P (Program) or A (Aperture priority) mode, this in itself doesn't make any difference for a low-light condition. That is, if there is not enough light in the scene, and you are close to the subject, then use flash. I would use P mode while using the flash. Actually, you could use P, A, or M, but you need to understand what you're doing with the latter two.
Keep in mind that the flash on this camera (like all "on-camera" flashes) is good only to around 15-20 feet. If that is the issue, ask me again.
If your camera is always producing "dark" results and you have adequate light, then check your camera to make sure that it doesn't have exposure compensation dialed in by mistake.
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Keep in mind that the flash on this camera (like all "on-camera" flashes) is good only to around 15-20 feet. If that is the issue, ask me again.
If your camera is always producing "dark" results and you have adequate light, then check your camera to make sure that it doesn't have exposure compensation dialed in by mistake.
newengland37 (07/11/2007)
Thanks for the info. Good to know that A means aperture and not automatic. Somehow I must have missed that info in the camera instructions.
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Do i alway have to keep my D40 inside a dry-box even.... (samrina — 07/02/2007)
Do i always have to keep my D40 inside a dry-box even when not in use..like for a whole month can i leave it around the house? Also in the event of condensation inside the camera lens, wld putting the camera back inside the dry-box eradicate the problem?
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by James DeRuvo (07/02/2007)
Well, it isn't so much the box itself. you need something to draw the condensation out and away. That's why every camera comes with those little silica packets. and it doesn't hurt to actually keep them. I know others who use uncooked rice for the same purpose. And some even immerse their camera in the rice to get rid of condensation when it's really bad.
but it sounds to me like you have a humid area and as such, you'll need to take steps. And using silica or a bag of rice will help.
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but it sounds to me like you have a humid area and as such, you'll need to take steps. And using silica or a bag of rice will help.
samrina (07/03/2007)
James, thank you for your prompt advice. CK.
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Can someone tell me how to check if my lenses have specks of dust? Read somewhere about it that it could be done. (samrina — 06/25/2007)
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Gillonde (06/25/2007)
The best way is probably to look at your lens(both sides). If you see any dust, remove it. The next step is taking a photo of a well lit white background(set it to manual focus, focus doesn't matter) with the aperture set to f/22 or f/32. Open the photo to 100%, you now probably see black/grey spots. The spots you see is dust on your sensor or on the lens.
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What are the specific capabilities of the Time Lapse mode? (davidcowin — 06/24/2007)
I want to know what are some of the specific capabilities of this feature. For example, I want to take one picture every hour for a 24 hour period as well as one frame every 5 seconds for movies. Ideally everything else in between (clearly depending on the memory available). Is this possible with the D40? If not, which is a similar to camera to this one that offers this feature?
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (06/29/2007)
I'm almost sure that the D40 does not have time lapse. Did you read somewhere that it had this feature? I keep pulling up a 'time lapse= no' on all of the reviews.
The Canon S3 has a time lapse (although the newer S5 does not; it does, however, have movie time lapse). On the S3, you can take from 2 to 100 images at whatever interval you like, from 1 to 60 minutes. The S5's movie time lapse lets you record a movie at intervals and then splice it together into a brief time frame at the normal frames per second. Neither one sounds exactly like what you're looking for.
I am trying to think of others that might offer a longer total time, since you mentioned 24 hours. I can't come up with one offhand, but I do know that cameras like the digital Rebels and Canon EOS models, G7 etc. can be connected to a computer and used with the Remote Capture Software (you control it thru the computer). This might offer more flexible/ creative time lapse options than what could be fit into the camera.
reply to this comment
The Canon S3 has a time lapse (although the newer S5 does not; it does, however, have movie time lapse). On the S3, you can take from 2 to 100 images at whatever interval you like, from 1 to 60 minutes. The S5's movie time lapse lets you record a movie at intervals and then splice it together into a brief time frame at the normal frames per second. Neither one sounds exactly like what you're looking for.
I am trying to think of others that might offer a longer total time, since you mentioned 24 hours. I can't come up with one offhand, but I do know that cameras like the digital Rebels and Canon EOS models, G7 etc. can be connected to a computer and used with the Remote Capture Software (you control it thru the computer). This might offer more flexible/ creative time lapse options than what could be fit into the camera.
DarkHorseFilms (11/16/2007)
Which digital cameras have 16:9 format movie mode and also allow time lapse recording individual frames (as a movie clip) over a 24 hour period out in the field? I imagine this would require an external battery pack?
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TamiyaGuy (01/16/2008)
Well, there is also the software option. If you have about $140 spare, Nikon's Camera Control Pro is a great piece of kit. It has a really nice time lapse option, and is very customizable.
Off the top of my head, I really don't know of any DSLRs that have a built-in time lapse feature. There are a few digital compacts that have them, but they're really not that good; a maximum of around 100 photos (they disappear quicker than you think), and the time in-between shots isn't that good. Built-in time lapses are usually "gimmicks" to make you buy that particular camera. Same goes with a 16:9 format.
So, if you're just looking for a very basic time lapse that JUST ABOUT does the trick, look at a few compacts.
However, don't let this put you off buying a D40. Not at all. Digitial SLRs have a 3:2 photo format, which scales up to 15:10, so it shouldn't look that bad when stretched to 16:9. Of course, if you won't stretch it, and are only worried about the "look", then you shouldn't worry at all.
Here is a really good little guide on how to get really good time lapses on your D40.
1) Get a tripod. This just makes sure everything is absolutely still. It doesn't have to be phenomenal, just enough to hold it in place.
2) Set your D40's options. Choose "Continuous Shooting" mode, set "Noise Reduction" to On, and choose any ISO you want. This should make you shoot at around 1.5FPS. Also, auto-focus on your subject, then switch to manual focus (only required if your main subject is moving).
3) Shoot. Just keep the shutter button held down until you're finished. If it stops, take your finger off the shutter for a little while (probably 2 seconds) and repeat.
4) Edit. Import your pics into Windows Movie Maker (or whatever), then shorten them as much as you can, and set the frame rate to as high as possible. Save as a WMV video.
5) Speed. Import the video into Movie Maker, then use the Speed Up effect as much as you want until you get a speed that you're happy with. Export one final time as a WMV.
I know it all sounds like too much of a faff, but it really will pay off; your stop-motion movies will look incredible. Hope you enjoy making them!
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Off the top of my head, I really don't know of any DSLRs that have a built-in time lapse feature. There are a few digital compacts that have them, but they're really not that good; a maximum of around 100 photos (they disappear quicker than you think), and the time in-between shots isn't that good. Built-in time lapses are usually "gimmicks" to make you buy that particular camera. Same goes with a 16:9 format.
So, if you're just looking for a very basic time lapse that JUST ABOUT does the trick, look at a few compacts.
However, don't let this put you off buying a D40. Not at all. Digitial SLRs have a 3:2 photo format, which scales up to 15:10, so it shouldn't look that bad when stretched to 16:9. Of course, if you won't stretch it, and are only worried about the "look", then you shouldn't worry at all.
Here is a really good little guide on how to get really good time lapses on your D40.
1) Get a tripod. This just makes sure everything is absolutely still. It doesn't have to be phenomenal, just enough to hold it in place.
2) Set your D40's options. Choose "Continuous Shooting" mode, set "Noise Reduction" to On, and choose any ISO you want. This should make you shoot at around 1.5FPS. Also, auto-focus on your subject, then switch to manual focus (only required if your main subject is moving).
3) Shoot. Just keep the shutter button held down until you're finished. If it stops, take your finger off the shutter for a little while (probably 2 seconds) and repeat.
4) Edit. Import your pics into Windows Movie Maker (or whatever), then shorten them as much as you can, and set the frame rate to as high as possible. Save as a WMV video.
5) Speed. Import the video into Movie Maker, then use the Speed Up effect as much as you want until you get a speed that you're happy with. Export one final time as a WMV.
I know it all sounds like too much of a faff, but it really will pay off; your stop-motion movies will look incredible. Hope you enjoy making them!
Will the 35mm Nikon/Nikkor AF lenses fit this camera? I have them off an F801 (JM2007 — 06/20/2007)
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Brenda Paro (06/20/2007)
All AF-S and AF-I lenses will be compatible, but only lenses with an auto focus motor (CPU) will be able to use auto focus; in other words, you may have to focus manually.
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Swap out Vivitar Lenses (newengland37 — 06/17/2007)
Can I use my Vivitar lenses on this camera?
reply to this comment
by James DeRuvo (06/18/2007)
Well that depends. How old are they? Nikon mount? At worst case, you can get an adapter for them and you may lose a light stop due to using an one. But if they are Nikon mount, then you can avoid that.
However, depending on which Vivitar lenses you have and how old they are they'll could only be usable on full manual or perhaps partial auto functions, hard to tell without more information.
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However, depending on which Vivitar lenses you have and how old they are they'll could only be usable on full manual or perhaps partial auto functions, hard to tell without more information.
Why won't my lcd aperture size change? (atomsforkubrick — 06/17/2007)
For some reason, the f-stop on my D40s lcd screen ALWAYS says "6.3." Changing the aperture size doesn't change the f-stop readout. This not only makes it difficult to know what f-stop I'm actually shooting in when I'm looking in the viewfinder; the lens the camera comes with isn't supposed to even go up to that aperture size.
I'm so confused. Please help!
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I'm so confused. Please help!
by James DeRuvo (06/19/2007)
It may be stuck and need a reset. So try and reset your camera and see if that frees it up.
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Is there an adaptor/convertor which will allow me to use a Tamron 28-200 with a Nikon D-40? (cmrhodes64 — 06/16/2007)
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by James DeRuvo (06/18/2007)
I'm sure there's one out there. But here's the downside. You won't be able to use any automatic features and you may lose a light stop while shooting. If you don't mind using your camera on pure manual when you use the lens, you can certainly make it work.
reply to this comment
Cliff (07/17/2007)
We're going to need more info. Let me explain....
The adapter/converter stuff was relevant 25 years ago, but more recent lenses are simply tailored for the manufacturer's camera body. If your Tamron was made for Nikon, OK. If it was made for Canon or someone else, sorry.
Now, once that has been established, you need to be sure that the Tamron is made for Nikon AF. If the lens is made for AF, then you should be able to use it in manual focus only mode. Got that?
That is, there are two autofocus systems out there (for Nikon). The older one uses a motor in the camera body and a "screwdriver" mechanism to focus the lens. The newer autofocus system does not have a focus motor in the body. Rather, there are electrical contacts between the body and the lens, and the lens now is required to have the autofocus motor. In Nikon's terminology, this type of lens is called AF-S.
The D40/D40x doesn't have a focus motor in the body. Only AF-S lenses will autofocus on a D40/x body.
Now the question is, does the Tamron have the AF-S system in that lens. My gut feel is no. Last I checked, Sigma was the only 3rd party lens maker that had AF-S type systems available in some of their lenses. Anyway, that's why I say that we need more info, but hopefully this helps you understand where to look.
reply to this comment
The adapter/converter stuff was relevant 25 years ago, but more recent lenses are simply tailored for the manufacturer's camera body. If your Tamron was made for Nikon, OK. If it was made for Canon or someone else, sorry.
Now, once that has been established, you need to be sure that the Tamron is made for Nikon AF. If the lens is made for AF, then you should be able to use it in manual focus only mode. Got that?
That is, there are two autofocus systems out there (for Nikon). The older one uses a motor in the camera body and a "screwdriver" mechanism to focus the lens. The newer autofocus system does not have a focus motor in the body. Rather, there are electrical contacts between the body and the lens, and the lens now is required to have the autofocus motor. In Nikon's terminology, this type of lens is called AF-S.
The D40/D40x doesn't have a focus motor in the body. Only AF-S lenses will autofocus on a D40/x body.
Now the question is, does the Tamron have the AF-S system in that lens. My gut feel is no. Last I checked, Sigma was the only 3rd party lens maker that had AF-S type systems available in some of their lenses. Anyway, that's why I say that we need more info, but hopefully this helps you understand where to look.
Will my Quanraray for Minolta AF 70-210mm zoom lens fit the Nikon D40? (KBCsMOM — 06/16/2007)
Will my Quantaray for Minolta AF 70-210mm zoom lens fit the Nikon D40?
reply to this comment
Jan Meja Heir (06/17/2007)
Nope, different mount. Quantaray does make lenses for Nikon mount though.
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KBCsMOM (06/19/2007)
Thank you!!!
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Does this camera have an instant response time? (gymrat88 — 06/11/2007)
My dad has a D70 and i love the instant shutter speed. I want a new camera and i only want nikon, will this camera offer me the speed that i want and quality pictures, or should i look at a different camera?
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jerryhung (06/15/2007)
I own a D40, and it's instant on and shutter (< 1 s for sure), which is quite INSTANT compared to my previous cameras of Canon S2 or SD300
2.5 fps (D40x is 3 fps)
DPReview of D40 indicates this as well, as every review of D40
reply to this comment
2.5 fps (D40x is 3 fps)
DPReview of D40 indicates this as well, as every review of D40
Cliff (07/16/2007)
The D40 will operate as quickly as the D70 does, including the shutter. You won't notice any shutter lag.
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Heather (03/03/2008)
the shutter speed is quick, I was taking pictures of my oldest son at his basketball game and I did'nt miss a move. it was CLICK CLICK CLICK. it was super fast. it even amazed me. I did not know that it was gonna be as fast as it was.
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dmichitti (04/29/2008)
With the flash off you can take several pictures every second. Even with the flash on this camera is extremely fast. I think you will be very pleased with this camera if you purchase it.
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jj (05/03/2009)
does this come any cheaper...like 300$?
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jj (05/03/2009)
im going to use this for skateboarding. will the pic come out blurry?
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Christo99 (07/18/2009)
I purchased the D40 and with the flash and set to auto I was not happy with the shutter response time for the first shot. This may be the case for all in this situation and that is what I am considering before I return the camera.
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Will my Nikon F65 lenses fit the D40 if i buy one? (paddy100 — 06/04/2007)
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bukit97 (06/04/2007)
D40 is slightly different in that it only accepts AF-S and AF-I lenses.
These remarks by Cnet's review on D40 say it all :
" ...... Nikon's decision to remove the coupling pin from the lens mount, limiting the capabilities when interfacing the camera with lenses other than the newer AF-S and AF-I models. ....... it isn't the camera to buy if you've got a stash of Dad's old Nikon lenses. "
If you want to use your Nikon F65 lenses on a digital Nikon, you probably have to buy D80 or any other models but not D40.
reply to this comment
These remarks by Cnet's review on D40 say it all :
" ...... Nikon's decision to remove the coupling pin from the lens mount, limiting the capabilities when interfacing the camera with lenses other than the newer AF-S and AF-I models. ....... it isn't the camera to buy if you've got a stash of Dad's old Nikon lenses. "
If you want to use your Nikon F65 lenses on a digital Nikon, you probably have to buy D80 or any other models but not D40.
paddy100 (06/04/2007)
Thanks bukit97, really wanted to go for the d80 anyway, seems a far superior camera so that confirms it for me.
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nikon D40 vs Cannon S5 (teddy107 — 05/31/2007)
Help! Which camera would be the better camera to buy. I am looking for an easy to use camera that gives a sharp clear picture.
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Ben Keough (05/31/2007)
Hi Teddy,
There's no question that the D40 is a superior camera, but these two aren't really in the same class--it's sort of like comparing a Ferrari F1 car to an Oldsmobile. Basically, any dSLR camera (which the D40 is) is going to outperform any non-dSLR camera, even the higher end/most advanced non-dSLRs like the S5 IS. This is because of a number of factors, including but not limited to the physical size of the imaging sensor (the D40's is 3-4x as large as the S5's, which means greater detail, lower noise, etc), the ability to use multiple kinds of lenses, zero shutter lag, and great low light performance.
It's an easy choice, really, provided you have the money for it. ;]
Good luck!
reply to this comment
There's no question that the D40 is a superior camera, but these two aren't really in the same class--it's sort of like comparing a Ferrari F1 car to an Oldsmobile. Basically, any dSLR camera (which the D40 is) is going to outperform any non-dSLR camera, even the higher end/most advanced non-dSLRs like the S5 IS. This is because of a number of factors, including but not limited to the physical size of the imaging sensor (the D40's is 3-4x as large as the S5's, which means greater detail, lower noise, etc), the ability to use multiple kinds of lenses, zero shutter lag, and great low light performance.
It's an easy choice, really, provided you have the money for it. ;]
Good luck!
samrina (07/03/2007)
i bought my D40 recently. Absolutely a fabulous camera. So user-friendly and yet behaves professionally as an SLR. No regrets buying it. Carrying one will surely command more attention and respect than carrying a non-SLR camera.
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Brian (11/28/2007)
What is you opnion when comparing the NiKon D40 or D80 and the Cannon D40
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SteveMacIntyre (12/06/2007)
Well, not so fast there. The D40 and S5 are so close in appearance, that only the most technically aware aficionado is going to offer any more "attention and respect" when he or she sees you carrying a D40 rather than the S5. They both look remarkably the same. Moreover, aside from lower cost, the S5 has other advantages over the D40, notably the excellent optical 12x zoom lens which is incorporated directly into the camera body. As to the ability to use multiple kinds of lenses, well, the S5 has that too. The difference is the way in which they are attached. With the D40, as with all SLRs, what you are buying is the camera body itself, sans lens. So any lenses you purchase attach directly to the body. The S5 comes with the aforementioned incorporated zoom lens, which cannot be detached from the body. So other lenses (telephoto, close-up, wide-angle, etc.) attach not directly to the body but rather to the incorporated lens. These are available both from Canon and from third parties. An adaptor is required which Canon sells for about $25.00, third parties for less. Finally, so far as shutter lag is concerned, according to reviews, the D40 does suffer slight lag under certain conditions. I have found my experience with the S5 to be that it too has reduced shutter lag to a bare minimum. It is a tremendous improvement over the S1 which I bought it to replace. So, are we comparing a Ferrari F1 to an Oldsmobile? No, more like comparing a street-legal Lamborghini to an Aston Martin.
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Which zoom lens to buy for my D40? (Dani247 — 05/26/2007)
Hi I have a D40, and I'm about to buy a zoom lens for it. I take a lot of landscape and wildlife photography. I can't decide between the High-Power Zoom 70-300mm Zoom-Nikkor, or the
55-200mm DX Zoom-Nikkor. I'd appreciate any information about the pros, cons, and dofferences of these lenses. Thank you.
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55-200mm DX Zoom-Nikkor. I'd appreciate any information about the pros, cons, and dofferences of these lenses. Thank you.
bukit97 (05/27/2007)
A very good information on the lenses is written by Bob Atkins which you can find at <a href="photo.net/learn/nature/atki... entitled ' A Guide to Nature Photography'.
Bob probably made a very good point that 'Wildlife Photographers can never get long enough lenses and 300mm is the shortest focal length that is really useful for most wildlife work.'
If after reading the article, you also feel convinced like I do, then the choice will be 70-300mm zoom rather than 55-200mm zoom.
reply to this comment
Bob probably made a very good point that 'Wildlife Photographers can never get long enough lenses and 300mm is the shortest focal length that is really useful for most wildlife work.'
If after reading the article, you also feel convinced like I do, then the choice will be 70-300mm zoom rather than 55-200mm zoom.
samrina (06/26/2007)
It is often said there is never enough of zoom. If you have the money, go for the 70-300mm. I bought the 50-200 mm and now finds it like not enough zoom.
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Can the D40 display what we should see in the viewfinder BEFORE you actually shoot pictures? (kbakes — 05/21/2007)
I thought all digital cameras show what you can see through the lense on the back moniter, so that you don't have to squash your nose onto the screen, but my new D40 doesn't seem to do this.
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bukit97 (05/21/2007)
I had the same ' shock' a couple of years back when I bought my D70.
Subsequently I found out that all dSLRs don't show you the picture on the LCD during that fraction of a second when the picture is taken except for a few models of Olympus, such as E-330, E410 and E510.
Olympus calls it 'Life View SLR' and you may wish to read more about it in <a href="letsgodigital.org/en/news/a... report</a>
reply to this comment
Subsequently I found out that all dSLRs don't show you the picture on the LCD during that fraction of a second when the picture is taken except for a few models of Olympus, such as E-330, E410 and E510.
Olympus calls it 'Life View SLR' and you may wish to read more about it in <a href="letsgodigital.org/en/news/a... report</a>
atomsforkubrick (06/17/2007)
I don't believe the D40 does that. I've read most of the manual and tried all the buttons, lol, but I don't believe you can actually see your photo before it is taken.
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samrina (06/18/2007)
Hey, i too got a big shock that the monitor does not show it 'live' like other compact digital cameras. Kind of disappointing that expensive SLR cameras do not have 'live' monitors in the first place.
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jpollano33 (06/18/2007)
The D40, as with all other Digital SLR's does not provide a "picture preview". The monitor displays the picture immediately after the shot.
This actually is Ok because there is less camera shake when holding the camera to your eye. The bright monitor is great for display information and the D40 allows minor adjustments in the camera, before downloading to your PC or printing your pictures.
reply to this comment
This actually is Ok because there is less camera shake when holding the camera to your eye. The bright monitor is great for display information and the D40 allows minor adjustments in the camera, before downloading to your PC or printing your pictures.
Competance (06/18/2007)
If you can't use the viewfinder than you don't belong in the slr world. Go back to your kodak handhelds. My d40 is the most amazing camera Ive ever owned and similar cameras from other brands run $$'s more.
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Good Lord (04/28/2008)
I wish they'd just do away with the whole 'viewfinder' thing anyway - I mean, what reason could there possibly be for wanting to see an uninterrupted shot of your subject prior to pressing the shutter when you can look at a little screen on the back. Get on the bus Nikon!
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SHAKEEL (12/14/2008)
wel shock is same to all guess. I dont knw my self in wats harm in providind LCD picture as well.
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Fabio Lessa (08/18/2009)
como faço para usar o display dela sem precisar o olho magico dela?
queria usar como as cameras simples.
reply to this comment
queria usar como as cameras simples.
Is this a good camera to start with if you are looking for action shots? Got kids in sports.. (osutxn95 — 04/27/2007)
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revhead227 (04/27/2007)
yes it good as there is mode which called "running" it great also you can change to iso to from 200 to 800 speed shutter to stop blurring your kids to play sports!
good luck photographer and this camera are top one and bit heavy but you are man!!
cheers
revhead227
reply to this comment
good luck photographer and this camera are top one and bit heavy but you are man!!
cheers
revhead227
kodak Easyshare 712 vs. Nikon D40? (bella195 — 04/24/2007)
Hi: I was thinking of getting the Kodak Easyshare 712 (7.1 MP) to take pictures of my son playing Lacrosse. The guys at work told me not to buy Kodak and to get a Nikon - they suggested 10 MP which I think may be overkill for me. I am now thinking of the Nikon D40 (6.1 MP). Which camera would be best for sports and overall pictures?
Thanks
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Thanks
China Mark (04/24/2007)
Hi Laurie,
The big difference between these two cameras is that the Nikon D40 is a true digital SLR camera whereas the Kodak has a fixed lens. Are you looking for a DSLR or would you be happier with a more compact and lighter point and shoot? There is a side-by-side comparison of the two cameras <A HREF="dpreview.com/reviews/compar... of the two, I personally prefer Nikon, but once you step into the world of DSLR then you are talking about buying better lenses than what comes with the camera, filters, tripods, flash units etc and that can get expensive and may not be what you're looking for.
I've never had a Kodak but if you have used them before and you like the brand then I would advise you to go with the Kodak in your position.
As an alternative compact slr-like camera that is great for catching fast action and for general all-round purposes I would recommend the <A HREF="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Powershot S3 IS</A>. It is highly-rated on all the major sites and I think it would suit your needs perfectly. Also has excellent video capture with stereo sound if you wanted to shoot clips of your son playing Lacrosse.
Hope this helps,
Mark
reply to this comment
The big difference between these two cameras is that the Nikon D40 is a true digital SLR camera whereas the Kodak has a fixed lens. Are you looking for a DSLR or would you be happier with a more compact and lighter point and shoot? There is a side-by-side comparison of the two cameras <A HREF="dpreview.com/reviews/compar... of the two, I personally prefer Nikon, but once you step into the world of DSLR then you are talking about buying better lenses than what comes with the camera, filters, tripods, flash units etc and that can get expensive and may not be what you're looking for.
I've never had a Kodak but if you have used them before and you like the brand then I would advise you to go with the Kodak in your position.
As an alternative compact slr-like camera that is great for catching fast action and for general all-round purposes I would recommend the <A HREF="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Powershot S3 IS</A>. It is highly-rated on all the major sites and I think it would suit your needs perfectly. Also has excellent video capture with stereo sound if you wanted to shoot clips of your son playing Lacrosse.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Should I buy a SLR or Canon S3IS? (davis9532 — 04/21/2007)
I am interested in taking Pictures of my daughter playing softball and family vacation pictures. I had planned on getting a Canon S3IS but now I am not sure. I am a novice. I have Canon Digital Elph now, which I love but not enough zoom. I don't want anything to complicated. What about image stablization in SLR cameras? If I do but a SLR camera what lens do I need? I am afraid I will get a SLR and not know what to do with it............
reply to this comment
Ardi Ounapuu (04/21/2007)
Hi Jenny,
I encourage you to go for an SLR. If you are using it in fully automatic mode with automatic lens then it works just a point and shoot. Means that you don't need to know "what to do with it". At the same time the performance will be much better because SLR cameras almost don't have shutter lag and because you can select really good lens. In order to recommend lenses I need to know how much zoom you need for the softball and what is the light condition there.
reply to this comment
I encourage you to go for an SLR. If you are using it in fully automatic mode with automatic lens then it works just a point and shoot. Means that you don't need to know "what to do with it". At the same time the performance will be much better because SLR cameras almost don't have shutter lag and because you can select really good lens. In order to recommend lenses I need to know how much zoom you need for the softball and what is the light condition there.
davis9532 (04/22/2007)
Hi Ardi, Thanks for you answer. Your advice helps. She is only 10, so she plays mostly on small fields. She plays on a travel team so she plays on a lot of different fields with diffent light conditions. With SLR cameras is the image stablization built in the lens? I have one friend that tells me to buy SLR and one that tells me the Canon S3IS is all I need. Thanks
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China Mark (05/06/2007)
Hi Jenny,
Did you decide what to buy in the end or are you still deciding?
Mark
reply to this comment
Did you decide what to buy in the end or are you still deciding?
Mark
jerryhung (05/12/2007)
I am curious to know too
I had a Canon S2 IS, and I think it's working inproperly, so got a Nikon D40 today from Futureshop, so far very happy
I think (without bias as I like both cameras) D40 may be better suited for you, for D40's baby/sports builtin scene modes, you need faster shutter speed
12X is sometimes overrated
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I had a Canon S2 IS, and I think it's working inproperly, so got a Nikon D40 today from Futureshop, so far very happy
I think (without bias as I like both cameras) D40 may be better suited for you, for D40's baby/sports builtin scene modes, you need faster shutter speed
12X is sometimes overrated
Joel G (05/21/2007)
If you want image stability, Nikon just came out (as of late March/April 2007) with a 55-200mm VR zoom lens with Vibration Reduction in the lens. I bought one and love it. I bought a D50 after Christmas (more alike than different from a D40) and I've yet to find a bad review of either the camera or the lens .
Some D40(x) kits come with just the 55-200mm lens instead of the 18-55mm. Not a bad idea - though I'm partial to the smaller lens for other stuff.
reply to this comment
Some D40(x) kits come with just the 55-200mm lens instead of the 18-55mm. Not a bad idea - though I'm partial to the smaller lens for other stuff.
hi have got nikon d40 but when i take pics it seems to highlight the sunlight and am unsure how to remove this ? garry (garryriall — 04/19/2007)
when i look at the pictures on the camera the sun flashes in all the points where the sun is please help have looked in manual but unsure as to what setting has changed
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mike (04/21/2007)
Its a setting in the camera its not broken. Look up highlights in the manual
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Gillonde (06/25/2007)
It's a camerafunction that shows the highlights(pure white). In the image view mode press the down button until it disappears.
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I noticed that other Nikon SLRs say they can use Nikon interchangable lens, but the D40 does not say that. (DonBassRealtor — 04/11/2007)
I wish to know if I will be limited to Nikon or even a certain Nikon series of lens if I buy the D40?
reply to this comment
Ardi Ounapuu (04/12/2007)
Hi Don,
Your question is not very clear but I will try to give you some ideas.
If you already have some lenses made for Nikon SLRs then you can use them on Nikon SLRs and dSLRs.
If you don't have lenses yet then you can just buy a Nikon dSLR and then select suitable lens(es) for it. The lenses don't have to be necessarily made by Nikon but they have to have Nikon mount. For example you can buy Sigma or Tamron lens that have Nikon mount.
In the future, of course, you can use all the lenses on other Nikon SLRs but you can not use them on Canon or other brand cameras because of the different mount.
reply to this comment
Your question is not very clear but I will try to give you some ideas.
If you already have some lenses made for Nikon SLRs then you can use them on Nikon SLRs and dSLRs.
If you don't have lenses yet then you can just buy a Nikon dSLR and then select suitable lens(es) for it. The lenses don't have to be necessarily made by Nikon but they have to have Nikon mount. For example you can buy Sigma or Tamron lens that have Nikon mount.
In the future, of course, you can use all the lenses on other Nikon SLRs but you can not use them on Canon or other brand cameras because of the different mount.
Tethridge (07/05/2007)
To the person with the question. I have shot Nikon N90S for years and just changed to Digitial D40 thinking that all my lens would work in auto focus but I was wrong!!!! My lens will not auto-focus and they are dedicated Nikon lens and were not cheap!!! I was really disapointed that They will fit but not auto focus on the D40
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Is there a chinese and an American version of the D40? (mletwinsky — 04/11/2007)
I recently called a website about a d40 priced at $420. the operator told me that was the chinese version that wasn't compatible with the accessories. the american version was $599. Am i missing something, or am i such an amateur that i don't know the difference?
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Joe (04/12/2007)
The chinese version means it is porbably grey market lenses so although it will work with american accessories it is far inferious to the american verison, and a big waste of money in my opinion. Sure the american version is $200 more, but it is quality and will last.
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Dani247 (05/26/2007)
this question got me worried, I bought my d40 off the internet and I'm wondering how you can tell if you have the american or the chineese version? thank you
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Whitt (06/04/2007)
I'm curious about Dani's question too. Anyone?
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Lenny (07/24/2007)
Cameras are made for different markets. They include different power connectors, different warranties and sometimes different features. Oh, and they are priced for the market they are selling in ;-) Grey market can be a good way to save money, but in this case, the camera is significantly different; stick with the US model if you're using it in the US.
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lovetoshoot (08/10/2007)
I have been told china uses plastiv parts in the camera, while american uses metal, longer lasting parts.
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Mike (08/13/2007)
NIKON has only 1 authorized reseller on the net. It's Amazon.com. Everyone else is a complete joke, Scam, Waist of time and money if you order. They are crooks, stay away from them all. Only buy from Amazon.com, Ritz, Sams, Costco, etc. If the camera store has a brick and mortor store than they will be safe online too.
Stay away from ebay.. all chinese crap. I hate these bastards.
reply to this comment
Stay away from ebay.. all chinese crap. I hate these bastards.
Tom (09/09/2007)
I am living in China and am American. I bought a d80 Nikon here and have done a significant amount of research on operating the camera and see no difference in the features. The charger and all connectors are identical to the American sold cameras. I can't see that it would be worth it for Nikon to tool up for plastic parts to save a few cents on material while compromising their reputation by having anything junk on the market to migrate to other parts of the world. China is full of very serious photographers right now, I mean Chinese photographers. I've talked to people who have quit their jobs and divorced to advance their hobby, and no one has expressed a need to go out of the country to get quality equipment. My camera is a toy compared to the equipment traveling around this place.
The only difference I can see is the warranty, that is where they save the money, if any. There is a considerable tax on imported electronics here and I am thinking that the warranty savings keeps the prices similar to the rest of the world. I have heard though that if you are a resident of the US that Nikon will adjust the warranty to US standards if you bought it while traveling or living abroad. Anyhow, I love the camera and it works great. The lens is the 18-200.
That mike guy has issues, stay away from him.
reply to this comment
The only difference I can see is the warranty, that is where they save the money, if any. There is a considerable tax on imported electronics here and I am thinking that the warranty savings keeps the prices similar to the rest of the world. I have heard though that if you are a resident of the US that Nikon will adjust the warranty to US standards if you bought it while traveling or living abroad. Anyhow, I love the camera and it works great. The lens is the 18-200.
That mike guy has issues, stay away from him.
continous shooting (samkim86 — 04/05/2007)
D40 is advertised as shooting at 2.5/sec but mine only seem to get ~1.7/sec (not on raw mode). i use a pqi SD hispeed 60. do you know what may be the problem?
reply to this comment
bukit97 (04/06/2007)
There is no problem about the camera, it can do 2.5 fps. but only when the buffer is not full, or near to full. As more continuous shots are taken, the camera slows down a bit, to write the data to the memory card and clear the buffer for more pictures.
To understand how this works, see the article at <a href="worldstart.com/tips/tips.ph... location</a>
Another nicely written article about the subject can be found at
<a href="bobatkins.com/photography/d... size and continuous shooting rates</a>
reply to this comment
To understand how this works, see the article at <a href="worldstart.com/tips/tips.ph... location</a>
Another nicely written article about the subject can be found at
<a href="bobatkins.com/photography/d... size and continuous shooting rates</a>
samkim86 (04/06/2007)
would getting a faster sd card help at all? I'm still getting ~1.8fps right from the start w/o filling the buffer on low settings
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bukit97 (04/06/2007)
Faster card does have faster writing speed. Your SD60 writes at 60X, and pqi SD 150 writes at 150X.
High capacity cards will also make a difference. D40 accepts SanDisk SDHC Memory Cards. Using 4 GB SDHC cards probably will give you better results.
reply to this comment
High capacity cards will also make a difference. D40 accepts SanDisk SDHC Memory Cards. Using 4 GB SDHC cards probably will give you better results.
How would you compare the quality of the pictures of the D 40 to the D 80? is the price difference worth it? Am having second thoughts abouthe 80 (Eseager — 03/30/2007)
I have a D-80 on it's way but am thinking of selling and getting D-40 looks like it might take as nice of pictures as the 80 I like the compact design of the 40 but want the best pictures I can get. What to do? 80 or 40?
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Piero Foto (03/31/2007)
Hey, Ed.
The D80 is undisputed for overall professional performance and quality.
Now, the question is if the D80 is worth it for you? If you are not going to be using a camera professionally and you do not intend to create big enlargements larger than 24"x36" then the D40 is fine. There is no need to buy a high performance sports car if you do not intend to drive it on the highway.
The picture quality is also excellent in the D40, its just a smaller file size in megapixels. So, for side-by-side comparison in image quality, their both comparable in smaller print sizes, but the D80 far surpasses the D40 in image quality for larger print sizes. The D80 has much more versatility in features and functions for different shooting conditions to achieve best results, but if you are mainly going to use the camera in a point-and-shoot automatic, or program mode, then the D40 is more than enough.
If you are planning to take photography much more seriously and want a camera that you can grow into and not out of, then choose the D80. It will serve you better in the long run.
If you get the D80, make sure you get the 18mm-135mm(27-200mm 35mm equivalent) zoom lens. This is an excellent lens for just about any shooting situation. If you buy this lens separately for the D40, you will be up around $1000 in total any way.
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The D80 is undisputed for overall professional performance and quality.
Now, the question is if the D80 is worth it for you? If you are not going to be using a camera professionally and you do not intend to create big enlargements larger than 24"x36" then the D40 is fine. There is no need to buy a high performance sports car if you do not intend to drive it on the highway.
The picture quality is also excellent in the D40, its just a smaller file size in megapixels. So, for side-by-side comparison in image quality, their both comparable in smaller print sizes, but the D80 far surpasses the D40 in image quality for larger print sizes. The D80 has much more versatility in features and functions for different shooting conditions to achieve best results, but if you are mainly going to use the camera in a point-and-shoot automatic, or program mode, then the D40 is more than enough.
If you are planning to take photography much more seriously and want a camera that you can grow into and not out of, then choose the D80. It will serve you better in the long run.
If you get the D80, make sure you get the 18mm-135mm(27-200mm 35mm equivalent) zoom lens. This is an excellent lens for just about any shooting situation. If you buy this lens separately for the D40, you will be up around $1000 in total any way.
My D40 fell off a table and it works still, but makes a noise near the shutter release button when moved. Is that normal? (odewey — 03/11/2007)
The table was a little less than three feet high.
The noise sounds like a spring vibrating, and can only be heard when my ear is practically on the camera.
It takes a sudden movement to make the noise.
The noise can be heard best if the battery is removed and you listen through the opening.
The camera seems to work prefectly fine.
I bought it new less than a month ago.
The lense on it is the lense it comes with.
reply to this comment
The noise sounds like a spring vibrating, and can only be heard when my ear is practically on the camera.
It takes a sudden movement to make the noise.
The noise can be heard best if the battery is removed and you listen through the opening.
The camera seems to work prefectly fine.
I bought it new less than a month ago.
The lense on it is the lense it comes with.
Ben Keough (03/14/2007)
Hi Oliver,
It sounds like something was probably jarred partially loose by the impact, but it might also be psychosomatic (i.e., you might be picking up on the noise now because you expect there to be damage, while it might have been there all along). Since your warranty no doubt excludes damage due to negligence, and since it's working fine, I'd say you should just soldier on with it and hope it stays a minor annoyance. :]
Good luck!
reply to this comment
It sounds like something was probably jarred partially loose by the impact, but it might also be psychosomatic (i.e., you might be picking up on the noise now because you expect there to be damage, while it might have been there all along). Since your warranty no doubt excludes damage due to negligence, and since it's working fine, I'd say you should just soldier on with it and hope it stays a minor annoyance. :]
Good luck!
odewey (03/14/2007)
Yeah I actually think you are very correct. I was able to listen to another Nikon camera (a D50) that was very similar and it made the noise also. Oh and I love the big word by the way (seriously). Thanks for answering though!
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Best buy D40 or D50 if both costs the same (sujaybs — 02/25/2007)
I am researching on buying a DSLR. Requirement is for mostly travel photography. Which model of Nikon D40 or D50 woould be best. Further Is Canon 400D also an option.
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Rich Watson (02/25/2007)
The D50 has been discontinued; between the two, I would get the newer model, the D40. Any dealer that handles the D50 is getting rid of 'old stock'.* The Canon 400D is the same type of camera, but it does have the extra megapixels.
* The lithium battery might be a year or more old, already.
reply to this comment
* The lithium battery might be a year or more old, already.
i have an eos rebel film camera. Will my 80-210 lens fit the canon ZTi (bigoe2 — 02/15/2007)
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (02/15/2007)
Hi Barb,
Assuming your 80-210mm lens is an autofocus lens and made for Canon's mount system it should work fine, yes. What's the brand and the rest of the info on the lens?
reply to this comment
Assuming your 80-210mm lens is an autofocus lens and made for Canon's mount system it should work fine, yes. What's the brand and the rest of the info on the lens?
can the Nikon D40 shoot black and white photos (MJC22 — 02/06/2007)
Can the Nikon D40 shoot black and white photos?
reply to this comment
bukit97 (02/06/2007)
For Nikon D40, taking Black & White pictures is one of the choices that you can make under Image Presets.
To learn more about D40, you may log on to
dpreview.com/reviews/nikond...
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.h... find the latter is more interesting and should be helpful to you.
reply to this comment
To learn more about D40, you may log on to
dpreview.com/reviews/nikond...
kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40.h... find the latter is more interesting and should be helpful to you.
jpollano33 (02/06/2007)
Yes. The D40 has a setting that allows you to select both "black and white" and "sepia" photos.
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Stephanie Christine (04/15/2008)
How do you set your camera to shoot in black and white? .. And is it possible to shoot with say blue stronger than reds?
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jackoff (07/03/2008)
Bad answers. Go to Shooting menu, then go to Optimization, then click black and white.
Camera must be in either P, S, A, or M mode.
reply to this comment
Camera must be in either P, S, A, or M mode.
Victor Farvet. (08/26/2008)
I do not have the book for my camera D40 nikon. How do I view my pictures on my camera.
How do I take off all the information on my screen.
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How do I take off all the information on my screen.
bukit97 (09/03/2008)
Press the first button, showing a triangle within a rectangle, on the top left hand corner let you see the pictures.
When the pictures are on the screen,
press the left or right button let you move to the next picture
press the ' - ' button let you see 4 pictures on one screen
press the ' - ' button again let you see 9 pictures on the same screen.
press the ' + ' button reverses the order.
2. to take off all the information on your screen, press the ' info ' button near the switch.
3. If you lose your book, read this simple but well written <a href="kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u... User's Guide</a> by Ken Rockwell
reply to this comment
When the pictures are on the screen,
press the left or right button let you move to the next picture
press the ' - ' button let you see 4 pictures on one screen
press the ' - ' button again let you see 9 pictures on the same screen.
press the ' + ' button reverses the order.
2. to take off all the information on your screen, press the ' info ' button near the switch.
3. If you lose your book, read this simple but well written <a href="kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40/u... User's Guide</a> by Ken Rockwell
zblck (01/02/2010)
[Jackoff] How can I get to the 'Shooting Mode' ?
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durability of d40 ? (241269 — 02/05/2007)
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Ben Keough (02/05/2007)
Hi Guerrero,
It's kind of hard to say at this point, since the D40 has only been on the market for a couple months. The cameras haven't had time to wear yet, you know?
Reviews tend to indicate that the build quality of the D40 is comparable to other low-end dSLRs: solid, rugged plastics over a metal frame. That said, Nikon tends to build slightly more solid-feeling cameras than their competitors--they simply feel better in your hand.
Maybe someone who owns a D40 can step in here and comment, but essentially I've seen nothing to indicate that the D40 is flimsy in any way, though it's definitely not quite as brick-like as the higher end dSLR models.
Hope this helps!
reply to this comment
It's kind of hard to say at this point, since the D40 has only been on the market for a couple months. The cameras haven't had time to wear yet, you know?
Reviews tend to indicate that the build quality of the D40 is comparable to other low-end dSLRs: solid, rugged plastics over a metal frame. That said, Nikon tends to build slightly more solid-feeling cameras than their competitors--they simply feel better in your hand.
Maybe someone who owns a D40 can step in here and comment, but essentially I've seen nothing to indicate that the D40 is flimsy in any way, though it's definitely not quite as brick-like as the higher end dSLR models.
Hope this helps!
javajooce (02/06/2007)
I was replying & lost it! I'd like to replace the Canon Power Shot G5 (gifting this camera to the newlyweds- son/dgtr-in-law for photographic careers).
I own 2 35mm Maxxums & would like to add another digi SLR to replace the G5. To date, I haven't been able to make use of all of the G5's fine capabilities. My intention is to educate myself to use this camera as an RN/Artist in pursuit of a career in medical illustration. Reading the specs on the D40 peaked my interest in trying a Nikon product since Minolta has merged with Nikon-in some way-right (?).I've never owned a Nikon product & know that it is a fine brand.I'm thinking the D40 would suit my needs as a growing photographer. I am able to use Minolta lenses with the D40, correct?
reply to this comment
I own 2 35mm Maxxums & would like to add another digi SLR to replace the G5. To date, I haven't been able to make use of all of the G5's fine capabilities. My intention is to educate myself to use this camera as an RN/Artist in pursuit of a career in medical illustration. Reading the specs on the D40 peaked my interest in trying a Nikon product since Minolta has merged with Nikon-in some way-right (?).I've never owned a Nikon product & know that it is a fine brand.I'm thinking the D40 would suit my needs as a growing photographer. I am able to use Minolta lenses with the D40, correct?
does this camera allow you to set the shutter manually or/and automatic as well? ( clovergirl31793 — 02/03/2007)
reply to this comment
Ardi Ounapuu (02/03/2007)
Hello,
Nikon D40 is a digital SLR and allows full manual control. So the answer is Yes, you can use both automatic or manual shutter controls.
reply to this comment
Nikon D40 is a digital SLR and allows full manual control. So the answer is Yes, you can use both automatic or manual shutter controls.
jpollano33 (02/06/2007)
Yes. The D40 will select the shutter speed for you in the "automatic" mode. You have the option of either "shutter" or "aperature" priority modes as well as "manual" mode.
jp
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jp
clovergirl31793 (02/07/2007)
thanks
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will it work with my Tamron 28-300 that I have on my Nikon N80? (tarrstuff — 01/24/2007)
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Joe (01/25/2007)
Yes it should work if it is a Tamron 28-300 AF.
Good Luck
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Good Luck
Chile (02/11/2007)
at this time, none of the lenses made by Tamron will autofocus with the d40.
You can, however, use the lens with manual focus.
Sigma and Nikon make lenses that will work with both d40 and d80.
reply to this comment
You can, however, use the lens with manual focus.
Sigma and Nikon make lenses that will work with both d40 and d80.
Aspiring photographer looking to graduate to an SLR. (meggb42 — 01/24/2007)
I am the former owner of a Nikon coolpix 5400, i loved the wide angle zoom and fabulous macro features of my old camera. I am very interested in the D40, can i get the same effect with the D40 kit lens (I am on a limited budget and don't want to have to buy an additional lens).
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Logan (01/24/2007)
Five points??????
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tharrison (01/24/2007)
Short answer is yes.
I think the D40 is an excellent choice, and the kit lens is 18-55mm, which is fairly wide angle to reasonable telephoto. Without doing some math, it's a little tricky to know if this is exactly a 4x zoom factor, but it's reasonably close.
I think you will find the SLR is a major, huge and wonderful liberation from some of the features of point and shoot cameras, even advanced ones like the Nikon 5400 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They are faster, smarter, easier to adjust, more flexible and can grow with your interest in photography. The D40, and the kit lens, are smallish ... for SLRs; overall you'll find it not quite as portable as the 5400. But I think you'll find the trade-off is well worth it.
(Side note: just had a chat with a friend who used to swear by a camera similar to the 5400 -- he recently moved up to SLR. I had been telling him of the great features of SLRs for a long time and he said he liked how small and portable his camera was. Then he got an SLR and wrote saying "Tom, you were right all along" -- on a recent trip where he traveled with the camera he said he took both, but never once used the non-SLR.)
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I think the D40 is an excellent choice, and the kit lens is 18-55mm, which is fairly wide angle to reasonable telephoto. Without doing some math, it's a little tricky to know if this is exactly a 4x zoom factor, but it's reasonably close.
I think you will find the SLR is a major, huge and wonderful liberation from some of the features of point and shoot cameras, even advanced ones like the Nikon 5400 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They are faster, smarter, easier to adjust, more flexible and can grow with your interest in photography. The D40, and the kit lens, are smallish ... for SLRs; overall you'll find it not quite as portable as the 5400. But I think you'll find the trade-off is well worth it.
(Side note: just had a chat with a friend who used to swear by a camera similar to the 5400 -- he recently moved up to SLR. I had been telling him of the great features of SLRs for a long time and he said he liked how small and portable his camera was. Then he got an SLR and wrote saying "Tom, you were right all along" -- on a recent trip where he traveled with the camera he said he took both, but never once used the non-SLR.)
meggb42 (01/25/2007)
thank you for your reply, i loved my old camera but an advancement is long past due. i have some experience with SLRs but haven't owned one (and i need to get something soon since my 5400 was stolen) and i am looking forward to purchasing something new.
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barbarac555 (04/26/2007)
I have had several point and shoots, but am not sure if I am ready for an SLR. Is the D40 or the Rebel XT easier to use? Is their an SLR out there that can be put in an auto mode so that it can automatically adjust to different light changes and auto zooms until I get used to using it? I want to lean, but don't want to be thrown into having to learn before I can take quality pics. Do you recommend me getting an SLR or getting the canon G7?
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I can't decide between the D50 and the D40 (secalegal — 01/18/2007)
I have a close friend who takes a lot of pictures and has for years. I have been using a P&S digital for about 4 years and it is OK but I can not take action or low light shots. I want a camera to take action shots of my teenagers in band, drum corps, ballgames etc at night and during the day. My friend suggested the D50 but I found it had been discontinued. What is the main difference between the D50 and the D40. I have used my friends D50 and love it.
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Ben Keough (01/18/2007)
Hi Tina,
The short answer is that there's almost no difference between the two cameras. The most apparent differences on the surface are the D40's larger, higher resolution LCD and its smaller, lighter body.
The D40 also lacks an internal focus drive motor, which means that it can only autofocus with AF-S and AF-I lenses (which have built-in focus motors).
Here's dpreview.com ( dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/ )'s writeup of the differences between the two cameras:
"Nikon's choice of "compromises" with the D40 are switching to a new three area AF sensor (although it seems to be just as fast), removing some of the flexibility (you can't change the CW average area, exposure steps are fixed at 1/3 EV and there's no bracketing) and removing the status LCD (although this has more to do with making the camera smaller than saving money). What the D40 shares with the D50 are some of the important things, the six megapixel sensor, the 420 pixel metering sensor (also used on the D80), the more 'consumer like' default IIIa color mode and 2.5 frames per second continuous shooting (although now unlimited in JPEG mode).
On the plus side you get ISO 3200 equiv. (HI 1), the ever useful customizable Auto ISO, a larger viewfinder view, shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout, a larger LCD monitor, a considerably nicer user interface, SDHC support, a new image processing engine, unlimited JPEG continuous shooting, in-camera retouching (including D-Lighting) and of course a smaller and lighter body. It would not therefore be fair to describe the D40 as a 'dumbed down' D50, far from it, the range of improvements and new features out-weigh those which have been removed or reduce, which would most likely not be missed by the average D40 owner."
Of the downsides between the two, the only one you'll likely miss that much is the status LCD, which gave you always-on readings of ISO, aperture, and shutter speed settings without having to page through menus.
Honestly, though, you'd be fine with either one. When the differences between the bodies are this small, the thing that will really make a difference in the images you get will be the quality of the lenses you use. I'd go for whichever of these two is cheaper and put the difference toward a nice lens.
Good luck!
reply to this comment
The short answer is that there's almost no difference between the two cameras. The most apparent differences on the surface are the D40's larger, higher resolution LCD and its smaller, lighter body.
The D40 also lacks an internal focus drive motor, which means that it can only autofocus with AF-S and AF-I lenses (which have built-in focus motors).
Here's dpreview.com ( dpreview.com/reviews/nikond40/ )'s writeup of the differences between the two cameras:
"Nikon's choice of "compromises" with the D40 are switching to a new three area AF sensor (although it seems to be just as fast), removing some of the flexibility (you can't change the CW average area, exposure steps are fixed at 1/3 EV and there's no bracketing) and removing the status LCD (although this has more to do with making the camera smaller than saving money). What the D40 shares with the D50 are some of the important things, the six megapixel sensor, the 420 pixel metering sensor (also used on the D80), the more 'consumer like' default IIIa color mode and 2.5 frames per second continuous shooting (although now unlimited in JPEG mode).
On the plus side you get ISO 3200 equiv. (HI 1), the ever useful customizable Auto ISO, a larger viewfinder view, shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout, a larger LCD monitor, a considerably nicer user interface, SDHC support, a new image processing engine, unlimited JPEG continuous shooting, in-camera retouching (including D-Lighting) and of course a smaller and lighter body. It would not therefore be fair to describe the D40 as a 'dumbed down' D50, far from it, the range of improvements and new features out-weigh those which have been removed or reduce, which would most likely not be missed by the average D40 owner."
Of the downsides between the two, the only one you'll likely miss that much is the status LCD, which gave you always-on readings of ISO, aperture, and shutter speed settings without having to page through menus.
Honestly, though, you'd be fine with either one. When the differences between the bodies are this small, the thing that will really make a difference in the images you get will be the quality of the lenses you use. I'd go for whichever of these two is cheaper and put the difference toward a nice lens.
Good luck!
I have the Canon S1IS and suddenly the screen turned all blurry and purple. A moment before it was fine. not drop the camera. (Canon-Problems-help — 01/16/2007)
I did not drop the camera or do anything different.
It just turned blurry and purple in the middle of shooting pictures. Checked the batteries. Any suggestions?
reply to this comment
It just turned blurry and purple in the middle of shooting pictures. Checked the batteries. Any suggestions?
Ben Keough (01/16/2007)
Hi Priscilla,
This is a known issue with some models of Canon cameras. What has happened is that your camera's imaging sensor (CCD) has become partially or fully detached from its wiring. Luckily, Canon has acknowledged the fault and is offering to repair any and all affected units for free (including free shipping both ways), whether they're under warranty or not. You can read the applicable service notice ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and then request a repair online ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Good luck!
reply to this comment
This is a known issue with some models of Canon cameras. What has happened is that your camera's imaging sensor (CCD) has become partially or fully detached from its wiring. Luckily, Canon has acknowledged the fault and is offering to repair any and all affected units for free (including free shipping both ways), whether they're under warranty or not. You can read the applicable service notice ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and then request a repair online ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Good luck!
Canon-Problems-help (01/16/2007)
You did good, Ben. You were right on! After the panic subsided, I did go on line and found exactly that. I will be getting a shipping label in the mail tomorrow via UPS. They were that quick with an answer and a personal one at that. Now I have to deal with camera withdrawal!
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Ben Keough (01/16/2007)
Yeah, Canon is (compared to their competitors, at least) very good in the customer service department, especially when it comes to this particular error. From what I hear, the round trip for this kind of repair is pretty short, so you probably won't have to deal with your withdrawal symptoms for too long! :)
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Canon-Problems-help (01/17/2007)
Hey, Ben, if you were to get a camera that will take clear, detailed bird photographs,,,,long distance...what would you get? I have a Bald Eagle's nest I'm watching and can't get closer than 25 to 50 yards away without disturbing the eagles and their young. Plus, I want to take some pictures of smaller birds 50 feet away. My son says I should get a "serious" camera because I use it every day for wildlife photos. I still want some automatic settings for quick "don't have to fiddle" shots, but also manual, av,tv, and I would love a better manual focus. Do you have any suggestions?
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Ben Keough (01/17/2007)
I'm afraid your S1 IS's 10x is already pretty near the upper limit on zoom length in the consumer digital range. I have the S2 IS, which (along with the S3 IS and its direct competitors from Sony and Panasonic) has a 12x zoom. As far as I know, there is no consumer digital with a longer zoom than that, and I don't know that the additional 2x would make THAT much of a difference from what you have.
Beyond the consumer range, well, you're obviously getting into dSLR territory (or, as your son put it, "serious" cameras). When you jump to dSLRs you not only hike the price way up for the body, you're also looking at serious money for lenses. A very long zoom lens of any kind of quality is going to run you in the hundreds of dollars. Of course, you'll be able to take incredible photos, but you'll probably be well over $1000 total once you've bought the camera, lenses, and accessories.
There's not really an easy answer here, unfortunately.
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Beyond the consumer range, well, you're obviously getting into dSLR territory (or, as your son put it, "serious" cameras). When you jump to dSLRs you not only hike the price way up for the body, you're also looking at serious money for lenses. A very long zoom lens of any kind of quality is going to run you in the hundreds of dollars. Of course, you'll be able to take incredible photos, but you'll probably be well over $1000 total once you've bought the camera, lenses, and accessories.
There's not really an easy answer here, unfortunately.
Rich Watson (01/20/2007)
Hey Ben (and Priscilla),
You are overlooking DIGITAL zoom (or cropping)!! If Priscilla is willing to settle for 4x6 prints, then look what she can do with a 12x optical zoom, coupled with a 6 to 7 megapixel sensor*: Use 3x digital zoom (or crop in a photo editor on a PC, same thing). That is the exact equivalent of 6/3 = 2 megapixels or 7/3 = 2.33 megapixels. So now your 12x camera is the equivalent of 36x power! And of course the 2 megapixels size is plenty good enough for 4x6 prints.
* Canon S3IS or Sony H5.
Richio
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You are overlooking DIGITAL zoom (or cropping)!! If Priscilla is willing to settle for 4x6 prints, then look what she can do with a 12x optical zoom, coupled with a 6 to 7 megapixel sensor*: Use 3x digital zoom (or crop in a photo editor on a PC, same thing). That is the exact equivalent of 6/3 = 2 megapixels or 7/3 = 2.33 megapixels. So now your 12x camera is the equivalent of 36x power! And of course the 2 megapixels size is plenty good enough for 4x6 prints.
* Canon S3IS or Sony H5.
Richio
Canon-Problems-help (01/20/2007)
So, Ben, if you were me and wanted a more serious Canon camera, what would it be, aside from the S3? Would a Rebel be to great of a jump for someone with my limited knowledge. I want one that I can use larger lenses with. Trying to get a great detailed shot of "my" Bald Eagle nest near where I live.
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Ben Keough (01/25/2007)
Hi Priscilla,
A Digital Rebel wouldn't be too big of a jump, no. Most digital SLRs have very, very good automatic modes that are just as easy to use as any smaller digital's auto mode. Either the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice.
If you want to save a few dollars and you don't mind straying from the Canon brand, there are several less expensive dSLRs out there--you might consider the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These can be had for around $500 w/a kit lens--usually not that great for zoom purposes, so you'd probably have to buy a long zoom lens. I don't know all that much about lenses, but I do know that, as I said above, a very long zoom lens is going to mean big big $$$.
Hope this helps. :)
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A Digital Rebel wouldn't be too big of a jump, no. Most digital SLRs have very, very good automatic modes that are just as easy to use as any smaller digital's auto mode. Either the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice.
If you want to save a few dollars and you don't mind straying from the Canon brand, there are several less expensive dSLRs out there--you might consider the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These can be had for around $500 w/a kit lens--usually not that great for zoom purposes, so you'd probably have to buy a long zoom lens. I don't know all that much about lenses, but I do know that, as I said above, a very long zoom lens is going to mean big big $$$.
Hope this helps. :)
Al Harris (02/26/2007)
I have just encountered the same problem with my S1 IS (in Oz) and I am not getting the same assistance that is being given in North America, lucky buggers.
Looks like I've got a new boat anchor. You don't think I have a sour taste in my mouth?
Australians who live outside of Sydney, beware.
HTH2
reply to this comment
Looks like I've got a new boat anchor. You don't think I have a sour taste in my mouth?
Australians who live outside of Sydney, beware.
HTH2
Ben Keough (03/01/2007)
Al,
That's pretty backwards-thinking of them. Seems like if there's a service advisory out for a large chunk of the world (I think South and Southeast Asia are covered as well), the entire planet ought to get recall service, doesn't it? If you feel like a fight, I'd suggest harassing them and pointing out that this very same problem gets very different results in another hemisphere. See if you can guilt them into some kind of compromise.
Sorry for your troubles.
reply to this comment
That's pretty backwards-thinking of them. Seems like if there's a service advisory out for a large chunk of the world (I think South and Southeast Asia are covered as well), the entire planet ought to get recall service, doesn't it? If you feel like a fight, I'd suggest harassing them and pointing out that this very same problem gets very different results in another hemisphere. See if you can guilt them into some kind of compromise.
Sorry for your troubles.
Ben Keough (03/01/2007)
I should add, however, that some Aussie users have had success in getting Canon to do their repair for free. See "Pottera"'s post part way down this message board page ( stevesforums.com/forums/vie... ).
reply to this comment
Gerry (01/17/2008)
I went to canons site and found an advisory on the S1 IS. I had a display that would not go on (all black) camera functions were all ok just no display. they had a recall on the chips. the following is the address for the advisory ... usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... sent my camera in per their instructions, received an e-mail a few days later(1/9/08) confirming that they would repair it a few more days later (1/16/08)I received another e-mail confirming that it had been repaired and shipped. Today (1/17/08) I got it and to my very pleasant surprise the box contained a new S5 IS!!! I will be sending them a very nice THANK YOU for it after I post this.
PS e-mail accepting repair 1/9/08
e-mail stating it shipped on 1/15/08, 1/16/08
received 1/17/08
Found another link imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1...
reply to this comment
PS e-mail accepting repair 1/9/08
e-mail stating it shipped on 1/15/08, 1/16/08
received 1/17/08
Found another link imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1...
etv (02/02/2008)
Hi Priscilla
I have the same problem with my S1 IS and I called the customer service centre. They asked me to turn on the camera and asked me to press the menu button. Asked me if it was blurry while the menu was on. On my camera the image is blurried only in the picture shooting mode. I can get the photos displayed on the screen perfectly. Was this the case with your camera too?
I remember a friend of mine also getting a new camera when he had a similar problem. I hope I too get a new camera
reply to this comment
I have the same problem with my S1 IS and I called the customer service centre. They asked me to turn on the camera and asked me to press the menu button. Asked me if it was blurry while the menu was on. On my camera the image is blurried only in the picture shooting mode. I can get the photos displayed on the screen perfectly. Was this the case with your camera too?
I remember a friend of mine also getting a new camera when he had a similar problem. I hope I too get a new camera
Mark (03/16/2008)
Hi Priscilla and Ben,
Thank you VERY much for posting the problem and the solution on this site. I just experienced this problem with my camera this week, and found your wonderful information on the web today. Thank you! I'll be contacting Canon tomorrow.
Again, I very much appreciate you making the time to post the issue and the solution on the web so many other people can benefit. That was very nice of both of you, and I really appreciate it.
Best regards,
Mark
reply to this comment
Thank you VERY much for posting the problem and the solution on this site. I just experienced this problem with my camera this week, and found your wonderful information on the web today. Thank you! I'll be contacting Canon tomorrow.
Again, I very much appreciate you making the time to post the issue and the solution on the web so many other people can benefit. That was very nice of both of you, and I really appreciate it.
Best regards,
Mark
Prakash (05/01/2008)
Hi all,
I reside in India and I had the same issue with the Canon S1 IS - purple screen and unable to shoot. I took it to the nearest authorized service center and they have offered to replace my camera with a brand new S5 IS !!! The waiting time is somewhere around 4-6 weeks. But the service center guys want their pound of flesh too (since it is a franchise). They just brought up some arcane problem and said that it had to be fixed before being presented for replacement. Costs around $50 equivalent. But, what the heck, don't mind it as long as I get the spanking new 8MP S5 :-)
reply to this comment
I reside in India and I had the same issue with the Canon S1 IS - purple screen and unable to shoot. I took it to the nearest authorized service center and they have offered to replace my camera with a brand new S5 IS !!! The waiting time is somewhere around 4-6 weeks. But the service center guys want their pound of flesh too (since it is a franchise). They just brought up some arcane problem and said that it had to be fixed before being presented for replacement. Costs around $50 equivalent. But, what the heck, don't mind it as long as I get the spanking new 8MP S5 :-)
Jen Buffum (05/05/2008)
Hello I live in Vermont USA and I had the same problem. I called Canon and sent it in and they will ship you out a brand new updated canon S5 IS!!! I was NEVER under warrantee! It was on THEM because it is a RECALL!! Call Canon!
reply to this comment
Rah (11/03/2008)
Had the same problem last week when me and my wife were in Chicago. Only problem was the timing when it went bad. 10 minutes into the architectural boat ride !! i was so mad and couldnt do anything.
Is it a 100% guarantee that everyone who has this problem gets a new camera?
reply to this comment
Is it a 100% guarantee that everyone who has this problem gets a new camera?
abdoozy (11/04/2008)
I just sent my S1-IS in last month for repair for this issue. No, I didn't get a new camera, but the old one is now good as new.
I guess last spring they didn't have the sensors to fix the problem and that's why they were sending out new S5s.. darn my luck.. still, it's great that they step up and fix it, way out of warranty (mine's 4 years old).
reply to this comment
I guess last spring they didn't have the sensors to fix the problem and that's why they were sending out new S5s.. darn my luck.. still, it's great that they step up and fix it, way out of warranty (mine's 4 years old).
Shelly (05/03/2009)
Hi,
I am having the same problem as the purple screen and being unable to shoot with my S1-IS. I am wondering if the free repair and shipping is still available (Ben's posting: Jan 16, 2007) because whenever I try to request a repair, it gives me a cost of around $149. Mine is almost 4.5 years old and was performing as good as new before this happened.
reply to this comment
I am having the same problem as the purple screen and being unable to shoot with my S1-IS. I am wondering if the free repair and shipping is still available (Ben's posting: Jan 16, 2007) because whenever I try to request a repair, it gives me a cost of around $149. Mine is almost 4.5 years old and was performing as good as new before this happened.
Kevin (07/18/2009)
I have the same problem ive kept my s1Is in mint condition i set it down on my shelf in working mint condition a few days later i went to use it and i get a blurred image and it cant take proper pictures or video after paying an outrageous price a few years ago for this awesome camera It just dies on me :(. I am not a happy camper im calling canon tommorow and hope they will do the free recall fix for me.
ya Shelly i got the same 149$ Estimate on repair quote i hope i dont have to pay 150$ to fix a recall product
reply to this comment
ya Shelly i got the same 149$ Estimate on repair quote i hope i dont have to pay 150$ to fix a recall product
Kevin (07/20/2009)
Wish me Luck its in the mail to canon today
reply to this comment
Jerry (08/06/2009)
I had the same problem as described here. After researching the issue I called Canon and they confirmed the recall. The representative I spoke with said that he was virtually certain that my problem is a sensor failure. He indicated that he's only seen 5 cameras sent in in which the problem was not the sensor. He also confirmed that the sensor replacement is free. Within 24 hours Ireceived the documents to send in the camera. Shipping is free as well.
reply to this comment
Kevin (08/07/2009)
Got my camera via ups today unfortunetly missed the courrier from ups so picking it up monday free of charge :) took about 15days there and back so happy hope it works
reply to this comment
Looking for a camera really great in low light situations. (marygeorge — 12/26/2006)
I take a lot of inside shots of a toddler. I need a FAST camera AND in low light situations. With my current cameras I seem to always be waiting for the flash to get ready! I also want burst capability, 6X optical zoom, image stabilization. What do I look for in a camera to know that it has good low light capabilities?
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/27/2006)
Mary,
Unfortunately, the fact of the matter is that all consumer digital cameras have issues with shooting in low light. Some, as you've mentioned, take a long time to cycle between shots. Some have very long flash charging periods. Some compensate for these problems but are afflicted by high image noise when shooting in low light. There certainly are some models that do better than others, but there are always issues.
The best way to get around this problem is to buy a digital SLR. The down side here, of course, is that they generally cost quite a bit more than their point and shoot competitors. However, in recent times prices on entry level SLRs have dropped to near the range of high-end point and shoots (the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are among the cheapest, at $450 and $600 respectively). You can see a full list of SLRs here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These cameras have much larger image sensors (close to the actual 35mm size used by film cameras), and as a result they are able to capture far more light with far less image noise. Furthermore, their range of lenses mean that you can buy equipment geared especially for night shooting.
If you're not ready to make that leap, though, there are a few things you can do to maximize the potential of your point and shoot (assuming your camera has a manual mode, or at least the ability to set these settings):
1. Choose a higher ISO setting. This is a digital's equivalent to the real ISO setting used with film. The camera's ISO value corresponds to its light sensitivity. Higher ISO means more sensitivity (and brighter pictures) but also higher levels of image noise.
2. Choose a wider aperture. The widest aperture many cameras offer is f2.8. The wider the aperture, the wider the lens iris is opening, and thus the more light is getting in to the imaging sensor.
3. Choose your shutter speed wisely. A slower shutter speed means more light gets in, but also means objects have time to move (or your camera does), which can cause blur. A faster shutter speed means crisper, sharper images but can also mean underexposure.
These three settings work together to determine the exposure of your photos, so play with them a bit and find the balance that works for you.
Good luck!
reply to this comment
Unfortunately, the fact of the matter is that all consumer digital cameras have issues with shooting in low light. Some, as you've mentioned, take a long time to cycle between shots. Some have very long flash charging periods. Some compensate for these problems but are afflicted by high image noise when shooting in low light. There certainly are some models that do better than others, but there are always issues.
The best way to get around this problem is to buy a digital SLR. The down side here, of course, is that they generally cost quite a bit more than their point and shoot competitors. However, in recent times prices on entry level SLRs have dropped to near the range of high-end point and shoots (the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are among the cheapest, at $450 and $600 respectively). You can see a full list of SLRs here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These cameras have much larger image sensors (close to the actual 35mm size used by film cameras), and as a result they are able to capture far more light with far less image noise. Furthermore, their range of lenses mean that you can buy equipment geared especially for night shooting.
If you're not ready to make that leap, though, there are a few things you can do to maximize the potential of your point and shoot (assuming your camera has a manual mode, or at least the ability to set these settings):
1. Choose a higher ISO setting. This is a digital's equivalent to the real ISO setting used with film. The camera's ISO value corresponds to its light sensitivity. Higher ISO means more sensitivity (and brighter pictures) but also higher levels of image noise.
2. Choose a wider aperture. The widest aperture many cameras offer is f2.8. The wider the aperture, the wider the lens iris is opening, and thus the more light is getting in to the imaging sensor.
3. Choose your shutter speed wisely. A slower shutter speed means more light gets in, but also means objects have time to move (or your camera does), which can cause blur. A faster shutter speed means crisper, sharper images but can also mean underexposure.
These three settings work together to determine the exposure of your photos, so play with them a bit and find the balance that works for you.
Good luck!
marygeorge (12/27/2006)
Thank you sooo much!
I really am wanting to know which camera you or someone would recommend to me considering my needs. I am going to buy one as soon as I can figure out which one!
I now have a "little" understanding of the low light situation. I definitely considered the SLR but I do NOT want a big camera AND I do not want to have to do a lot of "processing" before I take a quick photo of a baby...he just won't wait!
reply to this comment
I really am wanting to know which camera you or someone would recommend to me considering my needs. I am going to buy one as soon as I can figure out which one!
I now have a "little" understanding of the low light situation. I definitely considered the SLR but I do NOT want a big camera AND I do not want to have to do a lot of "processing" before I take a quick photo of a baby...he just won't wait!
I'm thinking about buying the Nikon D40, this will be my 1st Digital. I'm presently using my Minolta X370N, for 16 yrs. How would the 2 compare. (Janicew — 12/17/2006)
Nikon D40 VERSES Minolta X370N
reply to this comment
tharrison (12/17/2006)
Janice --
I'm not sure if the X370N was an auto-focus/auto-exposure camera -- I assume not because of the age. So this will be one of the first big changes: these features are really, really useful and work very well. You can still make manual adjustments, or turn the features off, but for most photos, you'll love the change.
Then there's the digital thing :-). The Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a real SLR, just like your Minolta. So you should find it extremely quick and responsive; some people complain about digital camera response time, but that's usually not an issue with digital SLRs. The ability to see your shot right after taking it is simply wonderful -- there's nothing bad I could possibly say about it. Today's digital cameras are as good as film in most respects (better in some). For me, the instant feedback thing helped my improve my photography significantly.
Then there's a part that's specific to the D40 that I am not so sure about. It is designed to be easy to use, and has some special capabilities in that area. if you are an experienced SLR photographer, this may or may not be helpful for you.
Bottom line: I think you will be thrilled. Digital photography reinvigorated my flagging photography hobby.
reply to this comment
I'm not sure if the X370N was an auto-focus/auto-exposure camera -- I assume not because of the age. So this will be one of the first big changes: these features are really, really useful and work very well. You can still make manual adjustments, or turn the features off, but for most photos, you'll love the change.
Then there's the digital thing :-). The Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a real SLR, just like your Minolta. So you should find it extremely quick and responsive; some people complain about digital camera response time, but that's usually not an issue with digital SLRs. The ability to see your shot right after taking it is simply wonderful -- there's nothing bad I could possibly say about it. Today's digital cameras are as good as film in most respects (better in some). For me, the instant feedback thing helped my improve my photography significantly.
Then there's a part that's specific to the D40 that I am not so sure about. It is designed to be easy to use, and has some special capabilities in that area. if you are an experienced SLR photographer, this may or may not be helpful for you.
Bottom line: I think you will be thrilled. Digital photography reinvigorated my flagging photography hobby.
Janice (12/17/2006)
Thanks Tom, for your quick reply. It's nice to receive feed back so quickly. I do believe I'm finally ready to go Digital...........I stumbled across this site, as I was researching cameras. This sections of Questions ?, is wonderful. I'm going to have to answer some questions soon ( LOL ), as I need too collect more points.
Thanks
Janice
reply to this comment
Thanks
Janice
tharrison (12/18/2006)
Janice -- glad to be of help. It looks like you may not have been logged in when you came back to the website (click the Login button in the upper right and use your JaniceW username and password you created when you asked the question). This will allow you to use the features of the site fully and start getting points.
Tom
reply to this comment
Tom
Nikon D50 SLR camera verses a camera with an extended zoom like the FugiFinePixs6000? (ams — 12/09/2006)
I will be using the camera mainly for shots of my children and I am a novice photographer. I can't stand my point and shoot digital camera. I used to have a Pentax with manual controls and it took much better shots.I just don't know if I need to spend the money on SLR when I won't want to change lenses. Thank you.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/10/2006)
Hi Anne,
As you know, a SLR can be a huge investment, both in terms of money and of time involved in getting to know the machine. However, in exchange for that investment you'll get pictures that no non-SLR can touch in terms of image quality. SLRs perform better in low light, are far quicker all-around (shot-to-shot, burst mode, autofocus timings), and have a much broader range of abilities (due mostly to interchangeable lenses). You've said here that you don't want to change lenses, but that desire might change in the future and it might be nice to have the option.
I've answered so many questions from parents who want to take pictures of their children and are frustrated by the performance of lower-end digitals, particularly in indoor settings and other poor lighting conditions. Honestly, no non-SLR digital is going to be perfect in low light. Because of the way digital imaging sensors work, and because of the kinds of sensors that are used in consumer digitals, low light will always cause higher image noise. There are things you can do to minimize this, both in-camera and in post-processing of the images, but it's always going to be a factor unless you go the SLR route.
Super-zoom consumer cameras have many great features to recommend them: long, often stabilized zooms, high megapixel counts, advanced manual controls, etc. They're fine cameras and, in good light, they can produce images that will be virtually indistinguishable to most people from those produced by dSLRs. Furthermore, they're hundreds of dollars cheaper, which is a huge factor to most people. However, if I had the money to spend, I'd definitely go for the SLR--it will be a huge source of relief for the kind of frustration you're getting with your point and shoot. The ability to manually focus in low light alone would be enough to sell me.
One final note: you might want to take a look at Nikon's new D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is around the same price as the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), is a little newer, and will serve your purposes just as well. Good luck!
reply to this comment
As you know, a SLR can be a huge investment, both in terms of money and of time involved in getting to know the machine. However, in exchange for that investment you'll get pictures that no non-SLR can touch in terms of image quality. SLRs perform better in low light, are far quicker all-around (shot-to-shot, burst mode, autofocus timings), and have a much broader range of abilities (due mostly to interchangeable lenses). You've said here that you don't want to change lenses, but that desire might change in the future and it might be nice to have the option.
I've answered so many questions from parents who want to take pictures of their children and are frustrated by the performance of lower-end digitals, particularly in indoor settings and other poor lighting conditions. Honestly, no non-SLR digital is going to be perfect in low light. Because of the way digital imaging sensors work, and because of the kinds of sensors that are used in consumer digitals, low light will always cause higher image noise. There are things you can do to minimize this, both in-camera and in post-processing of the images, but it's always going to be a factor unless you go the SLR route.
Super-zoom consumer cameras have many great features to recommend them: long, often stabilized zooms, high megapixel counts, advanced manual controls, etc. They're fine cameras and, in good light, they can produce images that will be virtually indistinguishable to most people from those produced by dSLRs. Furthermore, they're hundreds of dollars cheaper, which is a huge factor to most people. However, if I had the money to spend, I'd definitely go for the SLR--it will be a huge source of relief for the kind of frustration you're getting with your point and shoot. The ability to manually focus in low light alone would be enough to sell me.
One final note: you might want to take a look at Nikon's new D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is around the same price as the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), is a little newer, and will serve your purposes just as well. Good luck!
ams (12/10/2006)
Ben,
Thank you so much. That is really helpful. I will look into the difference between the D40 and D50. Would it be silly for me to buy the camera without the other lenses? Can I still take good shots with just the body that comes with it and down the road buy additional lenses? I also noticed that Pentax has come out with a relatively inexpensive SLR camera. I may look into that too.
Thanks again,
Anne
reply to this comment
Thank you so much. That is really helpful. I will look into the difference between the D40 and D50. Would it be silly for me to buy the camera without the other lenses? Can I still take good shots with just the body that comes with it and down the road buy additional lenses? I also noticed that Pentax has come out with a relatively inexpensive SLR camera. I may look into that too.
Thanks again,
Anne
Ben Keough (12/10/2006)
Anne,
The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also an excellent entry-level SLR, yeah. There are some other inexpensive new ones from Sony (the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) and Canon (the Rebel XTi aka 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) as well.
You can most definitely wait on additional lenses. The kit lenses that come with the bodies on most dSLRs are very nice and cover a pretty large range of shooting options (they're usually 18-55mm--wide-angle to mild telephoto). I'd suggest playing around with the kit lens for a bit before trying to figure out what additional lenses you need, if any. Hope this helps.
reply to this comment
The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also an excellent entry-level SLR, yeah. There are some other inexpensive new ones from Sony (the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) and Canon (the Rebel XTi aka 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) as well.
You can most definitely wait on additional lenses. The kit lenses that come with the bodies on most dSLRs are very nice and cover a pretty large range of shooting options (they're usually 18-55mm--wide-angle to mild telephoto). I'd suggest playing around with the kit lens for a bit before trying to figure out what additional lenses you need, if any. Hope this helps.
ams (12/10/2006)
After doing more research I think I'll definitely go with an SLR. Now I just need to find the right one. The Nikon D40 looks great, but so do the Pentax and Sony. Not an easy decision!
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/10/2006)
Definitely not easy, no. Since most entry level SLRs are very similar in terms of specs/features, it's often a good idea to go into a big electronics store and use the display models they have out on the sales floor. Trying each model in-hand will give you a better idea for how much you'll like them than hours of reading stats ever will. I'd also recommend reading as many user reviews as you can, not only here but on other review aggregator sites as well (like Amazon, epinions, etc). Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
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Please explain the lost manual settings of the D40 from the D50 (kayman — 12/06/2006)
I am trying to decide between a Nikon D40 and Nikon D50. I like the smaller size of the D40, but I do not understand what I would be losing as far as manual settings go. On my film Nikon, I set the fstop, and then adjust the lines in the viewfinder for the light I have. These are the only manual settings I do. Can I do this on the D40? I am sorry, all of the photography jargon is over my head.
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (12/06/2006)
Hi Karen,
It's no problem, this stuff can get confusing.
With the D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), here are the manual options that you lose in comparison to the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). There aren't many:
1. White balance & exposure bracketing are gone
2. Exposure compensation not as flexible (fixed at 1/3 EV on the D40, 1/3 or 1/2 allowed on the D50)
3. CW avg. size fixed at 8mm (D50 has a choice of sizes)
Here is what those terms mean, translated:
1. On the D50, you can set the camera to bracket, which means take a series of the same photos at slightly different exposures or white balances. This is useful if you're not quite sure what the exposure of the scene should be. This is similar to the technique on a film camera of setting your f stop to the number you think it should be, then hitting one higher and one lower just to make sure you get the shot. The D50 can do this for you automatically adjusting both exposure compensation and white balance. The D40 cannot. Not a big deal; you can do it yourself.
2. Exposure compensation is the interval in which you can step the exposure up or down in either direction. The D50 lets you step in 1/2s or 1/3s, the D40 lets you step in 1/3s. You shouldn't miss the extra option on this; you can always adjust the ISO to compensate if you need to fine-tune.
3. The D50 lets you change the area from which the exposure is metered when you're using center-weighted metering. The D40 has a set size. Not the end of the world, again. This is the only area where the D40 might offer a little setback to the average-to-advanced user, in my opinion.
That is basically what is lost. There are a few features gained on the D40 as opposed to the D50, too. <a href="dpreview.com/articles/nikon... is a fantastic comparison chart of the two (scroll about halfway down the page). If there are terms you don't understand in the chart, go to the top left of the page and check out the link to the Glossary and that should help you too. Or feel free to come back and ask!
reply to this comment
It's no problem, this stuff can get confusing.
With the D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), here are the manual options that you lose in comparison to the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). There aren't many:
1. White balance & exposure bracketing are gone
2. Exposure compensation not as flexible (fixed at 1/3 EV on the D40, 1/3 or 1/2 allowed on the D50)
3. CW avg. size fixed at 8mm (D50 has a choice of sizes)
Here is what those terms mean, translated:
1. On the D50, you can set the camera to bracket, which means take a series of the same photos at slightly different exposures or white balances. This is useful if you're not quite sure what the exposure of the scene should be. This is similar to the technique on a film camera of setting your f stop to the number you think it should be, then hitting one higher and one lower just to make sure you get the shot. The D50 can do this for you automatically adjusting both exposure compensation and white balance. The D40 cannot. Not a big deal; you can do it yourself.
2. Exposure compensation is the interval in which you can step the exposure up or down in either direction. The D50 lets you step in 1/2s or 1/3s, the D40 lets you step in 1/3s. You shouldn't miss the extra option on this; you can always adjust the ISO to compensate if you need to fine-tune.
3. The D50 lets you change the area from which the exposure is metered when you're using center-weighted metering. The D40 has a set size. Not the end of the world, again. This is the only area where the D40 might offer a little setback to the average-to-advanced user, in my opinion.
That is basically what is lost. There are a few features gained on the D40 as opposed to the D50, too. <a href="dpreview.com/articles/nikon... is a fantastic comparison chart of the two (scroll about halfway down the page). If there are terms you don't understand in the chart, go to the top left of the page and check out the link to the Glossary and that should help you too. Or feel free to come back and ask!
james Bond (08/03/2007)
kaka d40 sux
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I have Nikon AF Nikkor lenses that are about 14 years old. Will they work with the D50 or D40? (shariholloway — 12/05/2006)
I cannot find any model numbers on the lenses.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/05/2006)
Hi Shari,
Most of Nikon's digital SLRs are fully compatible with all Nikon F-mount autofocus lenses. In addition, many non-autofocus lenses can be used with manual metering. There's a comprehensive chart here ( nikonians.org/nikon/slr-len... ) that'll fill you in on exactly which lenses will work with which bodies. The D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), however, has been crippled so that it will not work with non AF-S/AF-I lenses. This page ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ) suggests that earlier lenses will work in full manual mode, however. Still, if your Nikon lenses aren't AF-S or AF-I, you might want to look more at the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and older models of Nikon dSLR.
Good luck!
reply to this comment
Most of Nikon's digital SLRs are fully compatible with all Nikon F-mount autofocus lenses. In addition, many non-autofocus lenses can be used with manual metering. There's a comprehensive chart here ( nikonians.org/nikon/slr-len... ) that'll fill you in on exactly which lenses will work with which bodies. The D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), however, has been crippled so that it will not work with non AF-S/AF-I lenses. This page ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ) suggests that earlier lenses will work in full manual mode, however. Still, if your Nikon lenses aren't AF-S or AF-I, you might want to look more at the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and older models of Nikon dSLR.
Good luck!
elvine (03/27/2007)
I've read your comprehensive table but I'm not clear as to whether I can use my two F90 lenses, the AF Nikkor 25-85mm and the Micro-Nikkor 55mm on a Nikon D40 body. I don't think I would mind having to focus manually if that is required.
Many thanks
Brian Wilkins
reply to this comment
Many thanks
Brian Wilkins
Gillonde (06/25/2007)
It is possible to use all nikon lenses on the D40(even pre AI lenses). The only problem is that the D40 can only autofocus with nikon af-s lenses or sigma HSM lenses. All other lenses will work fine, but can't use the autofocus function.
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What I would like to do is have a camera that takes good outdoor action shots (ex. birds in flight). I would like good zoom capabilities. (Rey — 12/05/2006)
I don't know much about digitals, but can adapt quickly. I would like to know a couple of camera choices in different price ranges. And was wondering if any cameras have the capability of adding different lenses. I have just begun my search, but have looked at the Fuji S5200, Canon S3-IS, and the Sony H2. Any help would be appreciated.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/05/2006)
Hi Rey,
The cameras you've mentioned are all serious contenders, but I would say that in the non-SLR class, the clear winner is Panasonic's Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Following that link you'll find a little debate over wildlife photography (one negative comment and one rebuttal), but overall the feature set on the FZ50 outclasses the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Fuji offerings by a country mile.
That said, if you want true manual control, additional lenses, and really stunning image quality you're going to want to bump up a price class to the digital SLR range. The cameras mentioned previously are all under $500 (some are even under $300). Once you step up to the SLRs, though, you're talking $600+. Of course, for your money you also get a substantial increase in quality and options.
Most digital SLRs can use lenses from film SLR cameras. This means that if you've been shooting on film with Canon lenses, you can buy a Canon dSLR and snap those babies right on. There are several new entry-level dSLRs that would appeal to the wildlife photographer. Among these are the Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which features image stabilization built into the body), the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All of these cameras come in under $1000 with a kit lens, and all of them are compatible with their brand's film autofocus lenses (the Sony accepts Konica-Minolta lenses).
Hope this helps!
reply to this comment
The cameras you've mentioned are all serious contenders, but I would say that in the non-SLR class, the clear winner is Panasonic's Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Following that link you'll find a little debate over wildlife photography (one negative comment and one rebuttal), but overall the feature set on the FZ50 outclasses the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Fuji offerings by a country mile.
That said, if you want true manual control, additional lenses, and really stunning image quality you're going to want to bump up a price class to the digital SLR range. The cameras mentioned previously are all under $500 (some are even under $300). Once you step up to the SLRs, though, you're talking $600+. Of course, for your money you also get a substantial increase in quality and options.
Most digital SLRs can use lenses from film SLR cameras. This means that if you've been shooting on film with Canon lenses, you can buy a Canon dSLR and snap those babies right on. There are several new entry-level dSLRs that would appeal to the wildlife photographer. Among these are the Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which features image stabilization built into the body), the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All of these cameras come in under $1000 with a kit lens, and all of them are compatible with their brand's film autofocus lenses (the Sony accepts Konica-Minolta lenses).
Hope this helps!
Rey (12/05/2006)
Thanks Ben! I'm going to continue my research. I'm really not ready to step into the price range of an SLR. I'm sure I'll have another question and I'll be looking out for your reply.
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best recommended digital camera for a freshman photo major? (tlink — 12/05/2006)
She would like to be a professional potographer someday. We would like to purchase a digital camera that might be able to grow with her.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/05/2006)
Hi,
If she's a photo major and she wants to go pro eventually, you'll probably want to get her a dSLR. There are several good entry-level dSLRs on the market right now, including the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Sony A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Any of them would be a good start, and all are under $1000 with a starter (kit) lens. Of course, when you factor in memory cards and additional lenses you'll probably end up at or over $1000 in the long run.
If you're not into spending that much money at the moment, there are many "SLR-like" digitals that offer excellent manual controls, long zooms, and great optics. The class leader among these is the Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), with the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) coming in close behind. All of these cameras feature optical image stabilization and 10x+ optical zoom, as well as a bevy of manual options (ISO, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, etc). You can buy adapters to fit select custom add-on lenses to these models, but they don't come close to the versatility of the dSLR's detachable lens design. They also don't match the dSLRs in the clarity of their photos or their range (low light capability, extremely low shutter lag, powerful burst mode, RAW/TIFF capability).
If it's a question of money, you can go with the FZ50 or one of its competitors and then later on, your daughter can pick up a decent film SLR used for a very reasonable price (they're dropping like crazy as digitals take over the market). If $1000 is within your range (and these dSLRs can go as low as $600 with kit lens), a dSLR is the way to go here. Good luck!
reply to this comment
If she's a photo major and she wants to go pro eventually, you'll probably want to get her a dSLR. There are several good entry-level dSLRs on the market right now, including the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Sony A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Any of them would be a good start, and all are under $1000 with a starter (kit) lens. Of course, when you factor in memory cards and additional lenses you'll probably end up at or over $1000 in the long run.
If you're not into spending that much money at the moment, there are many "SLR-like" digitals that offer excellent manual controls, long zooms, and great optics. The class leader among these is the Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), with the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) coming in close behind. All of these cameras feature optical image stabilization and 10x+ optical zoom, as well as a bevy of manual options (ISO, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, etc). You can buy adapters to fit select custom add-on lenses to these models, but they don't come close to the versatility of the dSLR's detachable lens design. They also don't match the dSLRs in the clarity of their photos or their range (low light capability, extremely low shutter lag, powerful burst mode, RAW/TIFF capability).
If it's a question of money, you can go with the FZ50 or one of its competitors and then later on, your daughter can pick up a decent film SLR used for a very reasonable price (they're dropping like crazy as digitals take over the market). If $1000 is within your range (and these dSLRs can go as low as $600 with kit lens), a dSLR is the way to go here. Good luck!
Farrah Fields (12/12/2006)
I have a Nikon N55 and I am wanting to go digital with a professional portrait look, without spending a small fortune. Do you suggest the Nikon D40?
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (12/13/2006)
Farrah,
The D40 is a good entry-level digital SLR. You might also want to look into the Pentax K110D, which you can currently get at Amazon for $432 after a $50 rebate. That's $432 with a kit lens (18-55mm). It's about the cheapest deal you'll find for getting into the SLR range.
Good luck!
reply to this comment
The D40 is a good entry-level digital SLR. You might also want to look into the Pentax K110D, which you can currently get at Amazon for $432 after a $50 rebate. That's $432 with a kit lens (18-55mm). It's about the cheapest deal you'll find for getting into the SLR range.
Good luck!
Eragon (01/16/2007)
I Personally wouldn't recommend the pentax, unless you like to spemd money. Sure, it's cheap, but it uses alkaline AA batteries that don't have a lot of juice. The accessories (lenses etc.) are harder to find than a nikon and are more expensive.
I intend to get the D40 very soon.
reply to this comment
I intend to get the D40 very soon.
Ben Keough (01/16/2007)
You can purchase AA NiMH rechargeables which offer just as much power as any lithium ion battery pack. I would never recommend using alkaline AAs with any digital camera. It's true that the accessories are harder to find, but Pentax does offer 100% compatibility with all of their older lenses, manual or AF, and they are pretty easy to find.
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what camera has the best FPS in the 1,000.00 price range (horseshowmom — 11/22/2006)
I want something that is least 8 mega pixel but my main focus is FPS. My main use of this camera will be taking pictures at my daughters horse shows so i need to shoot a lot of pics in a lil amount of time. I am looking really no more then 1500.00.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (11/22/2006)
Hi Corey,
There are several dSLRs that offer solid continuous burst mode shooting. I'll try and detail them for you here.
Under $1500, Canon's 8MP <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... 30D</a> is going to get you the fastest FPS at 5FPS for up to 30 consecutive images. You can find it for around $1200, but since it's pretty much a pro camera, that's without a kit lens. With the kit lens you're looking at more like $1300 or $1400. And, as I'm sure you know, you'll probably want to get a couple more lenses and that'll end up running you several hundred dollars more.
Other 8MP dSLRs under the $1500 limit: The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT</a>, which costs about half the price of the 30D and gets 2.8FPS for 14 shots. The Olympus E-500 and E-330, which get 2.5FPS each, shooting continuously until your memory card is full. These are even cheaper than the Digital Rebel.
If you're willing to step down to the 6-7MP range, there are several other options, including the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... D40</a> at 2.5FPS unlimited and the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... E-330</a> at 3FPS unlimited.
Finally, there's the brand new <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A100</a>, which gets 3FPS unlimited but boasts a huge 10MP sensor. It's been fairly well reviewed and it's quite reasonably priced at roughly $800-1000.
I hope this helps you narrow down your choices. Good luck!
reply to this comment
There are several dSLRs that offer solid continuous burst mode shooting. I'll try and detail them for you here.
Under $1500, Canon's 8MP <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... 30D</a> is going to get you the fastest FPS at 5FPS for up to 30 consecutive images. You can find it for around $1200, but since it's pretty much a pro camera, that's without a kit lens. With the kit lens you're looking at more like $1300 or $1400. And, as I'm sure you know, you'll probably want to get a couple more lenses and that'll end up running you several hundred dollars more.
Other 8MP dSLRs under the $1500 limit: The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT</a>, which costs about half the price of the 30D and gets 2.8FPS for 14 shots. The Olympus E-500 and E-330, which get 2.5FPS each, shooting continuously until your memory card is full. These are even cheaper than the Digital Rebel.
If you're willing to step down to the 6-7MP range, there are several other options, including the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... D40</a> at 2.5FPS unlimited and the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... E-330</a> at 3FPS unlimited.
Finally, there's the brand new <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... A100</a>, which gets 3FPS unlimited but boasts a huge 10MP sensor. It's been fairly well reviewed and it's quite reasonably priced at roughly $800-1000.
I hope this helps you narrow down your choices. Good luck!
horseshowmom (11/22/2006)
thosse are the ones that i have been looking at for awhile. I am having a hard time between the Cannon EOS 30D and the Cannon Rebel XTI. This is why I don't have a camera at the time being is because I can't make up my mind. I had a Sony Cybershot DSC-F707 for years and it finally gave out. Which is fine because i am ready to make the step to the Digital SLR and retire my 35mm SLR. Thanks for your help if you can help me with a lil pros and cons between the two cannon's i am looking at that would be great i would like to make my purchase in the next week so i can get all the christmas photos of the family.
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (11/23/2006)
Okay, let's see.
The biggest advantage that the Rebel has over the 30D is price. It's going to be roughly half the cost of the 30D, or possibly even less if you catch it at a black friday special. Pretty much everywhere else it's going to be inferior to the 30D, except in size and weight. Is the average non-pro going to find the 30D's extra features worth double the price? Probably not.
However, the extras ARE nice. The 30D's build quality is a lot more solid (more metal, less plastic). It is more adjustable in just about every manual setting. It has a sharper LCD display. And it does get that nice 5FPS mark in burst mode, nearly double the Rebel's 2.8. It's a camera that will last you for years to come, and hold up in the toughest conditions.
One other camera you might want to consider is the new Digital Rebel XTi/400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's an upgrade to the Digital Rebel that brings it marginally nearer to the privileged status held by the 30D. It offers a 10MP sensor, a minor jump to 3FPS, and retails only a little higher than the Rebel.
I'm not sure how much this will ultimately help you. The only other thing I can suggest is that you go to your local electronics superstore and see how each of the cameras actually feels in your hand. Many times, this is the deciding factor when you're down to just a few choices.
Good luck!
reply to this comment
The biggest advantage that the Rebel has over the 30D is price. It's going to be roughly half the cost of the 30D, or possibly even less if you catch it at a black friday special. Pretty much everywhere else it's going to be inferior to the 30D, except in size and weight. Is the average non-pro going to find the 30D's extra features worth double the price? Probably not.
However, the extras ARE nice. The 30D's build quality is a lot more solid (more metal, less plastic). It is more adjustable in just about every manual setting. It has a sharper LCD display. And it does get that nice 5FPS mark in burst mode, nearly double the Rebel's 2.8. It's a camera that will last you for years to come, and hold up in the toughest conditions.
One other camera you might want to consider is the new Digital Rebel XTi/400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's an upgrade to the Digital Rebel that brings it marginally nearer to the privileged status held by the 30D. It offers a 10MP sensor, a minor jump to 3FPS, and retails only a little higher than the Rebel.
I'm not sure how much this will ultimately help you. The only other thing I can suggest is that you go to your local electronics superstore and see how each of the cameras actually feels in your hand. Many times, this is the deciding factor when you're down to just a few choices.
Good luck!
Ascout990 (11/25/2006)
Hi. Check out Costco.com. With a $50 membership you can order a Canon 30D with a lens for as little as $1,169.99 after rebate. You can add a zoom lens for another $60 after rebate. Here's a link:
costco.com/Browse/Product.a... can also get a new Rebel Xti from Costco. This deal is valid until Jan 2007. I hope this helps!
Aileen
reply to this comment
costco.com/Browse/Product.a... can also get a new Rebel Xti from Costco. This deal is valid until Jan 2007. I hope this helps!
Aileen
s (12/02/2006)
This is probably too late but...
the grips on the Rebel XT and Rebel XTi are a little cramped and will most likely become uncomfortable after a while. I'd suggest going to a store and checking it out for yourself.
reply to this comment
the grips on the Rebel XT and Rebel XTi are a little cramped and will most likely become uncomfortable after a while. I'd suggest going to a store and checking it out for yourself.
Canon350D or Nikon D50 or the new D40? (atruthare — 11/22/2006)
I am looking to purchase my first digital SLR camera. My budget will let me buy either of these three. I currently own no other lenses or accessories, so I can go either brand. As I'm getting more mature (Old!), my eyes are not what they used to be. I want something that will be very user friendly and easy to see the menus and such. Over my 42 years, the majority of our photos have been of people (family), travel (landscapes), weddings, birthdays, church events, etc. There have been no need in the past of fast action shooting. I do not want red-eye! I would like to get as high of quaily picture as I can get for the money. Auto focus is a nice feature. I like a view-finder. I think that covers my needs. What's your thoughts?
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (11/22/2006)
Hi Scott,
Honestly, all of the cameras listed above will meet your needs and then some. However, there are some subtle differences between them that might make a difference to you, so let's cover them. First, let's cover the differences between the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and try to pick a contender from those two to face off against the 350D.
The D40 is a pretty subtle upgrade/downgrade case. In many ways, it's been improved over the D50. It's got a higher resolution LCD display. It's smaller overall, but it has a larger viewfinder and shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout. It's got a considerably upgraded user interface, as well. It can now shoot continuously in JPEG mode until you run out of memory space, which is pretty fantastic (though why you would ever want to shoot that many in a row is beyond me). Perhaps most important of all, the street price for the kit (body + lens) is about $300 lower than the D50's was at the time it was launched. On the other side of the coin, the D40 also does away with the D50's <a href="asia.cnet.com/i/r/2005/dc/3... LCD</a>, which told you the values of important manual settings. It's been removed mainly to make the camera smaller, but the end result is that you now have to call up those settings on the main LCD display. The D40 also does away with some of the manual controls from the D50, particularly the ability to customize your exposure steps. However, it does also add some new manual control, such as the ability to customize your auto ISO settings.
In short, I think the D40 offers the kind of upgrades that you're looking for (bigger viewfinder and sharper LCD, user-friendly interface, etc) at an acceptable cost. Of the two, it's the clear winner.
Now, choosing between the D40 and the 350D is another story. You'll find thousands of arguments across the internet over the quality difference between this brand and that, particularly in the shallow end of the dSLR pool. Canon loyalists will tell you that Nikon cameras have higher noise despite their larger sensor and fewer megapixels. Nikon loyalists will tell you that Canons have issues with autofocus "hunting" (inability to focus quickly) in low light. There's a good example of such a debate here ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ). Frankly, since the D40 has yet to be reviewed by any of the major sites, it's hard to make a direct comparison between these two, so my final recommendation is that you go to your local big box electronics retailer when production models start hitting the shelves and see how each feels in your hand. Give the D50 a try, too--it certainly can't hurt. Ultimately it's that feel that is going to hook you, and the rest is just comparing statistics.
reply to this comment
Honestly, all of the cameras listed above will meet your needs and then some. However, there are some subtle differences between them that might make a difference to you, so let's cover them. First, let's cover the differences between the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and try to pick a contender from those two to face off against the 350D.
The D40 is a pretty subtle upgrade/downgrade case. In many ways, it's been improved over the D50. It's got a higher resolution LCD display. It's smaller overall, but it has a larger viewfinder and shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout. It's got a considerably upgraded user interface, as well. It can now shoot continuously in JPEG mode until you run out of memory space, which is pretty fantastic (though why you would ever want to shoot that many in a row is beyond me). Perhaps most important of all, the street price for the kit (body + lens) is about $300 lower than the D50's was at the time it was launched. On the other side of the coin, the D40 also does away with the D50's <a href="asia.cnet.com/i/r/2005/dc/3... LCD</a>, which told you the values of important manual settings. It's been removed mainly to make the camera smaller, but the end result is that you now have to call up those settings on the main LCD display. The D40 also does away with some of the manual controls from the D50, particularly the ability to customize your exposure steps. However, it does also add some new manual control, such as the ability to customize your auto ISO settings.
In short, I think the D40 offers the kind of upgrades that you're looking for (bigger viewfinder and sharper LCD, user-friendly interface, etc) at an acceptable cost. Of the two, it's the clear winner.
Now, choosing between the D40 and the 350D is another story. You'll find thousands of arguments across the internet over the quality difference between this brand and that, particularly in the shallow end of the dSLR pool. Canon loyalists will tell you that Nikon cameras have higher noise despite their larger sensor and fewer megapixels. Nikon loyalists will tell you that Canons have issues with autofocus "hunting" (inability to focus quickly) in low light. There's a good example of such a debate here ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ). Frankly, since the D40 has yet to be reviewed by any of the major sites, it's hard to make a direct comparison between these two, so my final recommendation is that you go to your local big box electronics retailer when production models start hitting the shelves and see how each feels in your hand. Give the D50 a try, too--it certainly can't hurt. Ultimately it's that feel that is going to hook you, and the rest is just comparing statistics.
atruthare (11/22/2006)
Ben, how about the Nikon D200. I meant to add that one and forgot!
reply to this comment
Ben Keough (11/22/2006)
Scott,
The D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a brilliant camera, but it's a step up in class from the other three we've discussed and thus also about $900-1000 more expensive. It's not really in competition with the lower-end SLRs that I just compared. It does have a fine viewfinder and LCD screen, and it outclasses these others by a mile and a half in most tech departments, but for the kind of photography it sounds like you'll be doing it might be overkill. The D200 is verging on serious pro equipment.
reply to this comment
The D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a brilliant camera, but it's a step up in class from the other three we've discussed and thus also about $900-1000 more expensive. It's not really in competition with the lower-end SLRs that I just compared. It does have a fine viewfinder and LCD screen, and it outclasses these others by a mile and a half in most tech departments, but for the kind of photography it sounds like you'll be doing it might be overkill. The D200 is verging on serious pro equipment.
atruthare (11/22/2006)
Thank you!
reply to this comment
What is best source for early shipment of Nikon D-40 (rselenis — 11/21/2006)
I am looking for details on when the Nikon D-40 will be available (besides December !) and best source for early shipment.
reply to this comment
Joe (11/21/2006)
B and H Photo ( bhphotovideo.com/ ) is usually on top of new items, plus they are the most trusted in the business. Amazon isn't a bad place to look, around the release time as well.
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camera? (11/30/2006)
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We are going to buy our daughters an SLR Digital camera and take their senior picutres with them and then give them the camera in lieu of spending a ton of bucks on a photography studio doing it. Can you recommend an SLR for this purpose? (Jeff — 10/08/2006)
reply to this comment
Brenda Paro (11/05/2006)
Hey Jeff,
Still need help? If so a few more details will make it easier to find you the right camera. Let me know what price range you're in and what kind of features you want or pictures you'd like to take. Thanks!
reply to this comment
Still need help? If so a few more details will make it easier to find you the right camera. Let me know what price range you're in and what kind of features you want or pictures you'd like to take. Thanks!
Jeff (11/05/2006)
Brenda,
I suppose we'd go from $300 to maybe $600. We'd be wanting to take still shots immediately. After taking the senior pictures it would be given to our daughter who is entering college for general use. She has taken some photography classes in HS and may explore photography some more in college.
Jeff
reply to this comment
I suppose we'd go from $300 to maybe $600. We'd be wanting to take still shots immediately. After taking the senior pictures it would be given to our daughter who is entering college for general use. She has taken some photography classes in HS and may explore photography some more in college.
Jeff
Brenda Paro (11/05/2006)
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the details. Since your daughter knows some about photography and wants to learn more I'd definitely lean towards something with optional Manual controls (so she can play with the settings and learn how they work, but still put the camera on auto when she wants to). Your price range is pretty widespread, so I'll give you a few ideas from each area and you can check out the details on them:
Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- I love the Powershots because they take great photos in low light as well as in bright sun... very rich, pure colors. This one has auto and manual exposure options and a nice 4x zoom. All-around stable and dependable.
Kodak Easyshare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- another nice all-around camera; super user-friendly. Nice big zoom.
Most of those are in the same 300-ish price range. If you're looking to spend more than that, you can possibly look into a digital SLR. Those are the more advanced cameras that take multiple lenses and have more complicated instructions and functions. While they are great for photo students, it is also easier to take a bad picture with a DSLR than it is with a point and shoot. You really do need to learn how to use them, and that's a committment I'm not sure if your daughter is looking for or not... and it may also mean buying separate lenses since the ones that come with DSLRs aren't always the greatest. If that's a route you're interested in, the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is my favorite.
Hope that helps somewhat. Let me know if you need further help!
reply to this comment
Thanks for the details. Since your daughter knows some about photography and wants to learn more I'd definitely lean towards something with optional Manual controls (so she can play with the settings and learn how they work, but still put the camera on auto when she wants to). Your price range is pretty widespread, so I'll give you a few ideas from each area and you can check out the details on them:
Canon Powershot A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- I love the Powershots because they take great photos in low light as well as in bright sun... very rich, pure colors. This one has auto and manual exposure options and a nice 4x zoom. All-around stable and dependable.
Kodak Easyshare P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )- another nice all-around camera; super user-friendly. Nice big zoom.
Most of those are in the same 300-ish price range. If you're looking to spend more than that, you can possibly look into a digital SLR. Those are the more advanced cameras that take multiple lenses and have more complicated instructions and functions. While they are great for photo students, it is also easier to take a bad picture with a DSLR than it is with a point and shoot. You really do need to learn how to use them, and that's a committment I'm not sure if your daughter is looking for or not... and it may also mean buying separate lenses since the ones that come with DSLRs aren't always the greatest. If that's a route you're interested in, the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is my favorite.
Hope that helps somewhat. Let me know if you need further help!
Newbie2dsl (12/28/2006)
Since your daughters are probably going off to college. Perhaps you may want to look at something very portable. The best thing to do about senior pics is not to wait until that last minute. If they are in a regular school then the school will have some requirements for their yearbooks to have the pic submitted. Usually must have shot of just face, etc. and usually can even require dress regulations. Our school also requires a black and white for the paper. They offer pics taken at the school and then you can look at them and if you don't like them you pay nothing. (Just in case all goes bad) But hopefully you won't have any problems. Remember - try to catch them doing more natural things that you or they want to remember. You can always add in some items that have meaning, like a certain stuffed animal, necklace, or scenic spot.
reply to this comment
Lenny (01/12/2007)
I'll add several more SLRs to the mix, since I think only the 30D has come up so far:
Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- a cool new Nikon oriented toward people learning photography, Canon Rebel 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- the cheaper cousin of the 30D Brenda recommended (a totally great camera by all accounts), the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- both have image stabilization built in so you can buy much less expensive lenses. But all of these are real SLR cameras: fast, high quality and good for real photography.
reply to this comment
Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- a cool new Nikon oriented toward people learning photography, Canon Rebel 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- the cheaper cousin of the 30D Brenda recommended (a totally great camera by all accounts), the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- both have image stabilization built in so you can buy much less expensive lenses. But all of these are real SLR cameras: fast, high quality and good for real photography.
Alan Schamber (02/01/2007)
Hi Jeff... I'll give you some advice. First of all, you should know the diferences between a DSRL and a point & shoot (even with manual controls). There are two types of customers... the ones who want a small and cool device, take nice pics, and just have fun and the ones who don't care if the camera is big, if the lenses are big too, but they care a lot about response and image quality. Of course, these last ones, are more expensive... but you are getting much more from each buck you spend. The tecnical differences are: a much bigger sensor (like 7 or 8 times) what makes more light pass to each pixel, and make more vivid images; image procesors, that are the ones which convert the image in digital information (let's say that the worst SRL is at least better than the best point & shoot); response (SRL are on in 0,2 secs... don't expect that from a point & shoot). But, the SRL are not that comfortable... with almost any of them, you cannot take pics with the LCD, and are in some cases up to 6 or 7 bigger cameras.
I will recomend you cameras from $400, and up to $700... despite you said $600. Why? Because SRL prices start at $500... so you don't have too many of them by that price. The average, is around $800 and $1500.
Recomended Point & Shoot:
* Canon Powershot G7
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ5
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1
* Ricoh Caplio R5
* Samsung NV7 OPS
* Samsung S850
This ones, are point & shoot cameras... but they are kind of small. You also have those with ultra versatile lenses, but much bigger. Some of the bests are:
* Samsung Pro815 (with 15x lenses, and a decent sensor)
* Panasonic FZ30 (you also have the FZ50, but you should know that there's almost any difference between 8 and 10 mp, than the $100 extra bucks) I would recomend THIS ONE!
* Kodak P880
* FujiFilm FinePix IS-1
SRL's I recomend for the price:
* Pentax K100 (or K110... the difference is the image stabilization)
* Nikon D40
* Canon Rebel XT EOS 350 D
To decide between these three, you should first know some things about them:
1º Pentax K100 was the surprise in the last photography event of 2006. It has even better picture quality than the Nikon D50, and it has shift sensor image stabilization.
2º The Nikon D40 is the last release of Nikon, and it's made to compete with the Pentax. The image quality is slightly better (let's say that the throne was for the Nikon D50, until the Pentax K100 was lounched to the market, and they just released the Nikon D40 that has some better end details, but there are almost no differences). BUT! this camera doesn't have a built in autofocus... so you have to buy every lens with it's own autofocus system, which makes them more expensive. Much more... if you want image stabilization... you will have to buy much more expensive lenses, when the K100 comes with it.
3º There's no difference between 6 and 8 mp. But much more... this is the most expensive of the three, and Canon is well known for bad quality kit lenses... so you will have to buy extra lenses. This one doesn't come with image stabilization neither.
My opinion: buy the K100 camera body, and then look for lenses around 120 and 200 bucks. Sigma is a very good brand for the price you pay them. Look for versatility, something like 18-90 mm, or 28-120... or even more. I've done that.
Hope this helps you to find the best camera for you and your daughter, and I expect you to post in the future what you bought, and how pleased you are.
Alan.
reply to this comment
I will recomend you cameras from $400, and up to $700... despite you said $600. Why? Because SRL prices start at $500... so you don't have too many of them by that price. The average, is around $800 and $1500.
Recomended Point & Shoot:
* Canon Powershot G7
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ5
* Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ1
* Ricoh Caplio R5
* Samsung NV7 OPS
* Samsung S850
This ones, are point & shoot cameras... but they are kind of small. You also have those with ultra versatile lenses, but much bigger. Some of the bests are:
* Samsung Pro815 (with 15x lenses, and a decent sensor)
* Panasonic FZ30 (you also have the FZ50, but you should know that there's almost any difference between 8 and 10 mp, than the $100 extra bucks) I would recomend THIS ONE!
* Kodak P880
* FujiFilm FinePix IS-1
SRL's I recomend for the price:
* Pentax K100 (or K110... the difference is the image stabilization)
* Nikon D40
* Canon Rebel XT EOS 350 D
To decide between these three, you should first know some things about them:
1º Pentax K100 was the surprise in the last photography event of 2006. It has even better picture quality than the Nikon D50, and it has shift sensor image stabilization.
2º The Nikon D40 is the last release of Nikon, and it's made to compete with the Pentax. The image quality is slightly better (let's say that the throne was for the Nikon D50, until the Pentax K100 was lounched to the market, and they just released the Nikon D40 that has some better end details, but there are almost no differences). BUT! this camera doesn't have a built in autofocus... so you have to buy every lens with it's own autofocus system, which makes them more expensive. Much more... if you want image stabilization... you will have to buy much more expensive lenses, when the K100 comes with it.
3º There's no difference between 6 and 8 mp. But much more... this is the most expensive of the three, and Canon is well known for bad quality kit lenses... so you will have to buy extra lenses. This one doesn't come with image stabilization neither.
My opinion: buy the K100 camera body, and then look for lenses around 120 and 200 bucks. Sigma is a very good brand for the price you pay them. Look for versatility, something like 18-90 mm, or 28-120... or even more. I've done that.
Hope this helps you to find the best camera for you and your daughter, and I expect you to post in the future what you bought, and how pleased you are.
Alan.
Nikon D40 Reviews
Nikon D40 Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
best consumer slr ever, excellent value for money,extremely user friendly
(dilavar — 02/07/2010)
still rocking even after 2 years of rough use
- 2.0 out of 5
Crappy
(Jennifer Kaltz — 01/13/2010)
I take movement picture of dogs, and all I can say is CRAPPY!!!! and then having to down load the crap of internet that didn't work. MINE will be going back, and I'll be buying something new to take my pictures with.
I've NEVER had such a CRAPPY, CRAPPY Camera (and I'm watching my words)
- 4.0 out of 5
Lovin' it so far!
(Alfred Fonseca — 08/21/2009)
So I just bought the D40 after months of research and I must say I LOVE IT!!!!!
I took it on a trip to the jungles of Nicaragua for 9 days (just came back 4 days ago)and the pictures came out great.
I have gone through hell and back in the last couple of weeks with and its a real champ.
I dropped the lense in a puddle of water(d'oh!), but I dried it off reaaall good and works awesome!
I suggest a beginner like me should definielty buy it..
AWESOME CAMERA!!
- 5.0 out of 5
I love this camera!
(Sarah — 06/24/2009)
This was my step up from a point and shoot and it was worth it to get it! I love this camera! I have 2 batteries and they are constantly being rechared (Its nice not to waste AA batteries) I mainly use the camera to take photos of my dogs, but now I am expanding into portraits! I took portraits for someone, and they all turned out wonderfully, and they have come back for more pictures. A+ to this camera for a beginer SLR user!
- 5.0 out of 5
Very Good For First Time DSLR User
(Brett G. — 05/05/2009)
I like the fact that I can use most any lens from Nikon. I borrowed my dads lenses from the late 70's and they worked very well. The drawback is no autofocus and metering doesnt work. But thats the fun of the camera playing around with the features.
There is a lot of material out there teaching advanced functions on this camera. and for under 500 bucks with lens its a no brainer. www.dpreview.com is a great place to research
- 5.0 out of 5
Great bargain dSLR
(Richard — 04/26/2009)
Takes great shots and survived a potentially 'fatal' fall onto concrete with only a few scratches.
- 5.0 out of 5
Incredible Camera
(Gary Green — 03/08/2009)
Absolutely the best camera out there for the money. Cannot really beat it with camera's costing two or three times as much. I have 2 hi end(not professional model) digital slr's( one Canon, one Nikon, over $2500 each with lens), one mid price Canon ($1300), plus this Nikon D40. I use my cameras at work, while on travel, and for recreational purposes. I take many different kinds of pictures, so I bought the above cameras based on reviews and specific needs, ie. light for traveling, fast for sports, one for best advertised picture quality, etc. But I find myself always grabbing the D40. It is light weight, has excellent lightweight VR lenses, and does 95% of what I need. Why lug around a heavier more complicated camera? When I download my pictures onto my pc and start looking at them, I am still amazed that the best looking ones are from this D40. Whatever Nikon put into this camera, it trumps more expensive ones with all the impressive specs. I cannot explain why, but now truely believe what many experts say: "having the most pixels and smartest sensors doesn't guarantee the best pictures".
I could have bought 2 of these for all my purposes and saved $6000, but no one would ever have convinced me this camera could perform at this level. So if in the market for a camera, you will not be disappointed in the D40.
- 5.0 out of 5
Incredible Camera
(Gary Muse — 02/13/2009)
I was looking for a digital SLR when I tested the Nikon D40. I love this camera! I hope to trathe D80 up to the D80 some day, but for now, this is the camera for me!
- 4.0 out of 5
Nikon D40
(Arlene Thompson — 02/13/2009)
This is camera is among my first choice of cameras, other cameras in this Nikon series is definatley worth looking at.
- 4.0 out of 5
My favorite
(Melissa Davis — 02/11/2009)
This has fast became my favorite camera.
- 4.0 out of 5
Excellent for hobbyists
(MaryAnn — 11/16/2008)
I bought this camera because I was sick of all the trouble I had with point and shoots. Since I bought it, I've learned all of its features and utilized everything it has to offer and have found only one frustration: the white balance. It doesn't allow you to set it according to the light's temperature, and the custom white balance has trouble reading correctly.
The image quality is decent. It shoots 8 bit RAW and the noise reduction is decent as well. If you go above ISO 800, you're likely to have too much noise.
Aside from that, I'm extremely happy with this camera. It's not something I would recommend to someone aspiring to be professional, but it's good for people who don't want to use point and shoots.
If you're plan is to become a professional, I would buy something a lot better. I've now begun to take professional photography courses at school, and find myself disappointed that I don't have a better camera with more features.
- 5.0 out of 5
Amazing camera......
(Thomas S. — 11/11/2008)
I have had this camera for around 6 months now. I absolutely love it. It has superlative image quality, and the features it has work extremely well. The performance is quick, and while cheap, the kit lens is actually quite good.
While 6 megapixels doesn't seem like much, it is plenty for most peoples needs.
The only negative I can think of, is that there is no dust reduction built in. I have noticed some dust on the sensor, and I will have to get it cleaned.
This camera is a great camera, and I recommend it to anyone who wants an easy to use digital SLR camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
No where near a pro
(Paul Lanzo — 10/17/2008)
I moved up from digital a point and shoot to the Nikon D40.
I have shot quite a few photos, mostly at the local zoo and landscape photos. I am very satisfied with the results. For the money it would be hard to beat. I will be in Door County soon to shoot some fall scenes. I would recomend this Nikon to people stepping up from a digital point and shoot camera.
I understand the Nikon D60 is also a very good camera. But look into the lower end Canon's, see which one feels right to you. I think for the average person you can't beat either the Nikon or Canon lower end digital camera's. Both are user friendly.
- 5.0 out of 5
The Best Digital Camera Purchase I Made!
(Rosa Thompson — 09/09/2008)
This has been one of the best purchases I made. I had a regular digital camera that kept eating up my battery life. I would have to buy several packages of batteries just to keep it running. My new D40 is so much better. The pictures come out clear and professional. I bought it so I can take pictures of my Kindergartners and it's great!
The quality is worth what I paid. A great investment for years to come.
- 5.0 out of 5
I would recomend the Nikon D40 to my best friend.
(Paul Lanzo — 07/27/2008)
I upgraded from two point and shoot digital cameras. I wish I had the knowledge to start out with a DSLR. So much more you can do with this Nikon, I own the 18-55mm lens, 55-200mm VR lens and just bought a 50mm f/8 lens and I'm really enjoying all of them thanks to Digital Camera-HQ's help. If it wasn't for them, I would probably have put the Nikon in my closet with the rest of the cameras and let it accumulate dust.
The Nikon D40 was in my price range, it produces great pictures and easy to use. I love this camera.
Thanks to DigitalCamera-HQ
- 5.0 out of 5
I LOVE IT!
(Chelsey — 07/14/2008)
I was sceptical in buying the Nikon D40, But i'm SOOO glad I did !
- 5.0 out of 5
Amazing.
(WASIS HARYONO — 06/17/2008)
perfect, easy to use, user friendly, light weight, low noise, fast & never miss a shoot...
- 5.0 out of 5
I love it!!!!!!
(Heather — 03/04/2008)
if you are serious about photography, you can't go wrong with this camera. sure it's a little pricy but it is totally worth every penny. the picture quality is amazing. I've had mine for about a week now. I only wish I would have it sooner.
- 5.0 out of 5
AMAZING!!
(Megan — 03/03/2008)
I've taken many pictures with many different types of cameras but this one is by far my favorite!
- 5.0 out of 5
great camera
(steve price — 01/16/2008)
my first dslr after owning several point and shoot cameras, must say the d40 is fantastic, get one today!!!!!
- 5.0 out of 5
Compatibility with my old Nikkor lens
(Stephen F. Sit — 11/14/2007)
I am the proud owner of a Nikon F, a Nikon F2, a Nikkormat EL, and many old Nikkor lens, some without AI. The oldest is a 1967 50mm F1.4 vintage.
All these lens work with my D40!! Just set to the "M" mode, set the shutter speed, adjust the aperture on the lens, focus, and shoot. I am quite to do manual settings by experience, or use my Sekonic light meter, if not sure. For fast action shots, I'll still use the "P" mode with the zoom lens that came with the camera.
It's great to be able to use some of the finest lens that Nikon had produced over the years. Great photos come out from these lens. I would recommend any old timer Nikon enthusiast like me to to get this camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
Love this camera
(Roberta Czaplewski — 11/09/2007)
It's been years since I've used an SLR. Had become accustomed to my Kodak DX6490 digital point and shoot and finally splurged on my first digital SLR. Still learning the manual settings but loving the quality of photos. I'd definitely recommend this camera - if you can find it anywhere. I was told that the D40 was Nikon's last digital SLR that allowed you to use other model lenses. Thinking then that the D40x now requires the proprietary Nikon lenses? Something to investigate if you're looking at purchasing the D40x.
- 4.0 out of 5
i AM PROUD TO OWN THIS
(NAGESH PUTTASWAMY — 10/09/2007)
I bought this camera during my visit to Dubai I was surpraised at the quality of the out put with and without flash I was able to take several pictures on candle light and very landscapes too.
over all I am proud to own this I am planning to buy a full set of lens for th camera I a 18-55 lens on it. Shortly I am planning to buy a TELE lens for it
- 5.0 out of 5
Great for new DSLR buyers
(Ed — 10/01/2007)
I've been shooting a film SLR until recently and finally made the switch to digital. I've enrolled in a photography course and intend to take some very nice shots. There's a lot to learn. I looked at more complex models, but figured the D40 could do 90% of the more expensive cameras and I haven't regretted my purchase.
I selected the D40 after holding a number of cameras. It just feels more comfortable to me than the others. I also felt that I'd carry the D40 more often because of its light weight.
I've shot about 700 pics thus far and am very happy with the performance of the camera and image quality. I'd also highly recommend the DVD training videos available for this camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
the best DSLR in lowest price
(Nafees bazmi — 09/02/2007)
Nikon has made possible for people like me to afford a DSLR at a nominal price, but i feel it odd that we pay for a Japan made thing and getting a lense made in Thiland.. why not Japan made. Overall result is amazing ... Thank to D40x for the higher MP.
Nafees Bazmi
ban555@yahoo.com
- 4.0 out of 5
Even with a 200M lens the D40 was smoked in pic quality by a $300 Kadak Z612
(Paul — 06/16/2007)
I bought a Nikon D40 on June 8th as an upgrade to my trusty great shooting but unrefined $300 Kodak Z612 zoom camera.
My upgrade was to a Nikon 40D w/the goodies including 55-135mm and 75-200mm lenses and paid $1100. I then compared the two cameras directly. The Nikon was much faster and sweet to operate BUT the small less refined Kodak CRUSHED the Nikon in all but close up photo quality. When zooming the 200mm Lens was totally outclassed by the 12x optical zoom on the Z612. The Nikon will need maybe as much as a 400mm lens to beat this little Kodak at its own game. I wonder what this will cost. I bought the Nikon because it was well rated, consumer reports also recommended the Z612 but the D40 is an SLR and should outperform the zooming subcompact in ALL AREAS. In truth the Nikon did outperform the Kodak in all areas but one, photo quality which to me is kinda a big deal.
- 5.0 out of 5
An ideal bridge between point-and-shoots and serious D-SLRs
(Wilkey — 04/29/2007)
The D40 is targeted at the developing photographer or the amateur in need of greater flexibility, capability, and image quality. The size and operational ergonomics (such as switch placement) are ideal. Coupled with the 18-55 kit lens and the SB-400 compact shoe-mount flash, I've got a light, fast, and easy to use camera that makes simply gorgeous shots. I mainly photograph family, outdoor scenes, and hobby items and the D40 serves me well.
- 5.0 out of 5
Very Easy to you!
(Shwan — 02/19/2007)
Following on from the popular D50 model, the Nikon D40 is a cheaper but no less capable DSLR. This camera is target for first-time DSLR owners and compact digicam users trading up to a more "serious" camera. I got it from warehouse123 for 500 bucks which is very affordable for many people. All of the pictures came out beautifully. I am really looking forward to using this camera for many years to come!
