Nikon D40X
- 5.0 out of 5
- 5.0 out of 5
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Editors' Comments
When the Nikon D40 debuted just a few months ago, it was a significant moment for digital SLR cameras. The D40's incredibly affordable price made it a great option for budget-minded photographers looking for a solid professional-level camera, and virtually everyone who got their hands on it was satisfied by the high-quality images and comfortable design. Now, Nikon has pushed the D40 forward with a 10-megapixel sensor and price-tag that makes it competitive with other cameras that balance high-end features with mass appeal. The D40x will definitely be a powerful force in digital SLRs in 2007.
Specifications
- 10.2 megapixels
- JPEG, NEF file formats
- Nikon F lens mount
- Auto and manual focus
- Auto and manual exposure
- ISO 100-3200
- 2.5-inch LCD
- Secure Digital storage
- Lithium-ion battery
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Nikon D40X Reviews
- 4.41358609794629 out of 5
Nikon D40X Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
I have been using this camera for almost a year photographing children, families, weddings, and landscape/macro. This camera has performed better than I ever expected.
The light body weight is a definite bonus.
A few disadvantages are the lack of a self-cleaning sensor (but this depends on your usage), and the ISO limits (many say that the D40 has better ISO).
About cleaning the sensor, no worries. All you will need is a lens cleaning blower, and an extra 20 minutes maybe once a year to clean it.
Love my camera!
- 5.0 out of 5
I got the Nikon d40x after going through a canon digital rebel that was no good at all, and an earlier nikon "pretend" dslr about 4 years earlier when they first started coming out in digital. This camera has no faults and I can say that very honestly. Beautiful color, focusing, saturation, flash, everything. I've won photo contests with it, competing against guys with their canon markII's, as well as shot weddings professionally. It does it all, even just on auto if you know how to use photo-shop correctly.
I am sorry to say that the lcd screen has a big scratch on it thanks to me, but I've dropped this camera from waist level onto wood and tile floors probably 4+ times and it still works beautifully. It's built like a tank. Just make sure you get a screen protector for your new baby to protect it from scratches!
- 5.0 out of 5
Got this camera for Christmas and it is fantastic! Great pictures, light, No problems at all! Get the DVD for (Nikon D40/D40X) though if you really want to learn how to use all the features and settings. There are so many settings you can change to take even better pictures. This is my first Nikon Camera and will not be my last.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have owned a nikon before back when I was much younger and film was the norm. Until this December I have been pretty loyal to Canon Digital cameras (Always the powershot series) and strayed to a Sanyo HD Xacti, then was given the D40x for Christmas and man I had no idea. The clarity and vivid differences between the Sanyo and the Nikon are like Night and Day. understandably one is more SLR like while the other is a video camera playing at being a still camera. But still, if your going to say you take a still picture you shoudl at least provide a decent quality effort and I had no idea what I was missing until I had the Nikon D40x. It's a jump in megapixels yes, but I believe it is more noticible in the operation of the camera. With other cameras i had been used to waiting on the camera, the D40x is just as quick and snappy as my old FE body was. Turning out wonderful pictures with both the standard and zoom lens it came with.
- 4.0 out of 5
Until the shutter locks up 1 year and 2 weeks after you bought the camera.
Like the size, almost flawless operation for the first year.
Had one hot pixel group that developed early.
Had to claen the sensor once, would have done it again this week. Since I only had the lens off about three times I think it may have been manufacturing debris that was getting on the sensor.
ISO 100 pics are every good, up to 800 decent, above that noticeable degradation. Flash is very powerful, creates a lot of very bright highlights on faces unless you take steps to bounce it some way.
Card door comes open pretty easily but never had a problem.
Battery performance seems good. Up to 800 shots with moderate reviewing.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my first Digital SLR and I have been very pleased with the results. This spring I had the chance to take to take some outdoor pictures and was very suprised to see the beautiful sharp pictures. I have the 18-135 nikkor lens and found this zoom to be very versatile when taking outdoor shots.
- 5.0 out of 5
My whole idea of photography was changed when i get this camera. Actually i am a novice in photography but i start taking excellent photos when i own this camera
Excellent camera for amatures and semi pros
- 5.0 out of 5
I moved from my Nikon F4, a little worried about the lack of weight, it didn't "feel" like a real camera.
But since I bought it, seven months ago, I have taken hundreds of photos, and changed my impression.
It's a wonderful camera, lots of potential to introduce me into digital photography.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera genuinely has something for everyone. I'm and entheusiastic hobbiest, and I purchased this on advice from a professional friend of mine. I havent looked back. The body itself is easy to use, and at the same time is versitile enough for any situation. And the manual settings are easy to set and use, while not being necessary to take perfect shots. The extra 4 mp from the D40 meant a lot to me, printing some of my shots up to 33 inches square, but even if you dont use that, then you will appreciate the quality of the picture from those megapixles. I could not endorse this camera more. It is absolutely fantastic for a mobile professional and a budding photographer ready to move up from the PnS's. Stunning.
- 4.0 out of 5
This is my first purchased camera and I love it! =] It's easy to use and may have some drawbacks but it is simply easy to use.
- 4.0 out of 5
Wanted Nikon's 18-200 VR lens and the D-40x was the lowest priced Nikon that still had 10MP. It does a very nice job! A little small for my hand but then it fits in a smaller camera bag. I use the big lens and actually hold it instead of the camera body. Have never used kit lens, can't commen on it's quality. I generally use the "No Flash" setting since it takes good pictures without the flash popping up all the time.
If I want something really sharp I switch to Program mode set at 100 ISO and unless the light is very good something to set the camera on. VR does not work as well as some reviewers claim.
Build quality appears good, SD card door likes to pop open but card has never come out, door is flimsy so I worry about it's long term durability, and battery door is chintzier than my Panasonic DMC-FZ50 but the Nikons photos are much better under low light situations.
Focus is fast and reasonably reliable, even at low light. Clouds or water can give it problems simply because there are no sharp edges for it to see.
Very versatile camera. A few things I don't like but if I read the manual more I might find answers.
Setting flashoutput can be a hassle. If anything it tends to be too powerful on closeup shots.
Time delay shots it seems that you have to set it up for each picture. Won't stay in time delay mode.
Battery life is reasonable. First rechargeble battery that didn't require a spare for even a days shooting. I can get about 400 pics even with reviewing each one. Once it stops shooting though there are no grace shots, turning it off and letting it rest for a while usually won't eke out even one more shot. Dead is dead it seems.
Overall I can't say it's better than a Canon 400D but I can say I really like it and the price was competitive even at Circuit City.
- 5.0 out of 5
It is so simple to use, I love it but being a novice photographer, I'm not doing something right. Not all my pictures are coming out as well as I hoped. But as far as the camera goes, it is awesome!
- 5.0 out of 5
My husband and I were avid fans of Canon, so it was a no brain-er for us to purchase the Rebel XTi. Well, apparently we were given a faulty one because all the pictures were too dark or blurry. I just wasn't impressed. My step-mom has the XTi and has NEVER had that problem, so I'm sure it was just a faulty one. Anyways, I returned it, and for some reason, I decided to try the Nikon D40x. Well, I fell in LOVE! The Canon Rebel XTi seemed to be for the more advanced user, users that prefer to tweak their images after shooting. I, however, wanted the option of taking quit snapshots or tweaking the images if I wanted ;). The Nikon D40x is extremely easy for the beginner to use, yet advanced enough for the more experienced photographer. I highly recommend this camera!
- 5.0 out of 5
i have always been into photography, but this is the first SLR I have owned. It exceeds all expectations I had. i always liked small point and shoot types since it was easy to carry them in my pocket. But the photos, taken in raw format are absolutely stunning. its definitely worth the added size. Nite time photos are especially good, and with the built in noise filter you just cant beat it. I got this package with two lenses a bag and the body for 1000$. I definitely think the 40x is worth the extra money over the d40, it's just nice to have the extra megapixles for cropping. but to sum up its awesome and I would recommend it to anyone.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is the best dslr I've ever used.
I had used other canon and pentax dslrs but there's just something about the quality in the pictures that i dont like.
Nikon D40x gives you what any other digital camera and plus, it has all of the DSLR features.
The continous shooting is amazing. Also, you will never miss a moment since it only takes you a second to turn the camera on point and shoot. I've done it.
It is very confortable in your hands.
I highly recomend beginer photographers (like me) to make a smart choice and buy this Nikon D40x or the regular D40.
Nikon D40X Comments & Questions (write your own!)
So no, it's not THAT much of a problem, especially if you mainly use one lense. Just find a really good all around lense that you can leave on it most of the time.
Bob
Regards.
Jorge
On the D40, as on most DSLR cameras, you can't use the LCD to compose photos. It is just used exactly for what you're using it for- menus, data screens, and photo reviews.
Best,
If you can afford it, stick with Nikkor lenses. You can't beat the quality of the glass.
I call it my lens insurance policy. As I mentioned before, I can't tell you how many times I trashed a filter and saved the lens!
Vince, good idea. My only concern is that often, package deals - while a good value - can come with third party lenses which is where the savings come in. That doesn't mean these lenses aren't any good, but compared to the Nikkor lens, there's definitely a difference. It really comes down to what's more important. If you're on a budget, then the package deal is a good way to go.
Does "won't work" mean older lenses won't work at all, or just not in autofocus mode?
IIRC, the D40x has an F-mount...
Can anybody please advise if I should go with D40 or D40x. I am from India (New Delhi). It would be really helpful for me.
Awaiting some kind of positive reply.
Thanks
Chandrika
I did read ur reply. I would like to ask one more question as whether I can go for D70s or D80 Nikon. As I have little bit handon with that D70s. What all should I buy along with the kit and how much would it come for in INR?
As stated above, make sure you get 1A skylight filters for every lens. They are great at protecting the lens elements from impact damage. I would also consider a flash. Bag, etc.
As for prices in INR, I'm afraid that's out of my area of expertise. All I can do is point you towards the vendors above who may be able to help. But there are plenty of ways to purchase cameras online. What you need to be wary of are "gray market" sales, where the warranty may be void before you even get it.
1A skylight filters, bag, and what else? Please suggest as it is quite urgent. Please help me out.
One more thing is can you atleast tell me as to how much D80 would cost in US$?
Thanks
Chandrika
Chandrika: The Nikon D80 estimated selling price for the USA is about US$1000; their estimated selling price for the D40x is about US$730 (both body only). As James said, you can search for on-line vendors and may find lower prices, but you need to be careful about the warranty -- you should buy from someone who sells products with a warranty that is valid in your country (and will ship to your country).
As Vince mentioned earlier in this discussion, the Nikkor 55-200 mm digital VR lens seems to be a good bargain; it sells for about 1/3 the price of the 18-200 mm VR lens, although it may not be as useful for landscape photos as the 18-55 mm or 18-200 mm lenses. (The 18 end of the range makes it easier to capture large areas when you are close by.)
A 1A filter, bag, storage card, and lens cleaning kit would complete your basic outfit. You may want a tripod as well -- it can be useful for landscape and portrait work to more precisely frame your shots and to reduce camera shake at slow shutter speeds. (The Nikkor VR [Vibration Reduction] lenses are designed to reduce camera shake, too.)
Any useful info that I should have before I buy the complete set, please let me know. Any comments guys?
In the end, As Dave suggested, that's about it. A good basic kit.
Also, some are using diaper bags for their camera equip as it hides your camera in plain sight.
THanks guys, now the things are pretty much clear. Actually I want to shoot landscapes and also some portraits. Hope D80 with 18-135mm would be OK for the time being.
As I can't afford beyond this.
Which is the fastest memory card that I can use with D80?
Chandrika
As for fastest, sorry to be vague, but get the fastest you can afford.
As I will save approx 10,000 Rs. in INR, if I buy without bill.
Please suggest.
Chandrika
Bill means with Warranty card or without warranty card.
Please let me know as without warranty card I save approx 10 - 15K in INR.
Chandrika
Aside from the often missing cables and accessories, gray market products frequently come with outdated software, manuals in another language and jacks and adapters that may not be compatible with other components in your system. Depending on the country of origin, the quality standards may also be lower than US standards.
Gray market is a BAD deal, man. Most assuredly, you'd live to regret it, IMHO.
GOt the reply. I will go by the warranty card and not by the Grey Market. Thanks for the suggestion.
Anyways, as for you Amy I think you should buy D80 as josh said you will grow with it.
Chandrika
MY EMAIL ID has CHANGED. Can anyone let me know how to update my new email id.
If not then I will create a new log in. Please let me know about this. I am on this id till 27th June only.
CHANDRIKA
For most work Vince is right, spending an extra $200 on the VR lens will make more difference than the pixel count, helps eliminate the middle aged fuzzies.
Perhaps you should sign into www.flickr.com , then search for pictures taken using each camera. May help you decide. There are D40 pictures on there that I will never match no matter what equipment I can get my hands on.
Personally I like the 10MP on my Panasonic, am looking at the D40x simply because it is so much better in lowlight situations.
Thank you both. Your answers were concise and easy to understand. I am leaning toward the D40 with the anxiety that I may get that great shot that I may want to enlarge.
Thanks again and happy picture taking.
If you get the picture of a lifetime and want to enlarge it you can to what ever size you want. The D40 will limit the enlargement (what a heart break, I have been there).
You can always save up and buy the 55/200 DX VR lens later.
An SLR digital camera would be a good choice because of its superior shutter speed and capture rate compared to compact point and shoot cameras. In addition, an SLR digital camera allows you to change lenses to take telephoto, close-up, and wide angle shots in a way that is far superior to a compact point and shoot camera.
Remember you are not just purchasing a camera body but rather a camera system. Batteries, a charger, a camera case, software, lenses and of course other accessaries will increase the cost of your system from the base price of the camera body. Given your budget and specifications, I would suggest you take a look at the Canon 20D. Canon 30D, and Nikon D200. You can find reviews of these cameras, and others, at www.steves-digicams.com
As you build your system over time, you will find that camera bodies evolve rapidly-with new models coming out every year. However, lenses stay pretty much the same from year-to-year. For this reason, I would invest in one or two quality lenses to complement whatever camera body you decide to purchase. As you build your lens collection (3 or so works for me) the cost of upgrading your camera system decreases since you will already own several lenses.
Nikon D40X is as easy to use as most point and shoots with the advantage that as you learn more about the camera you can really step up to semi-pro type shots.
In Late June I paid about $750 dollars for a D40X kit at Circuit City.
At a local camera shop I bought a Nikkor 18-200 VR zoom lens for $750 dollars. This is a semi-professional /pro lens with stabilization built in (VR).
$35 for a camera bag.
$75 for a circular polarizer to protect the lens and improve outdoor shots by removing glare/reflections.
Total $1600
Check http//:www.flickr.com/photos/ctuna
to see if it is adequate for sports shots.
The volleyball players frozen in midair were taken about a week after I got the camera.
Canon 400D would work as well or better but they didn't have the wide range telephoto.
Problems:
No movie capability.
The good point & shoots are far ahead in that regard.
Also their picture quality will be very close to DSLR standards until you start to try to enlarge the pictures beyond a certain point. On a laptop computer screen it's hard to tell the difference between a pic from a Sony S600 that cost $150 and a $700 Nikon.
Plus a good point & shoot fits in your purse or a shirt pocket, not in a camera bag.
Don't spend all that money unless the ONLY thing you really want is high quality still photos that look like they came out of Sports Illustrated. If you just want nice snaps and a few good 8x10's you should be able to get down around $350 and have a very nice supercompact by Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Panasonic, Olympus, or a host of others.
Good luck!
Otherwise, you can buy the body with two lenses : 18mm to 55mm plus a 55mm-to-200mm f/4-to-f/5.6 VR
Put in the same position, I would choose the 2 lens kit because while many believe that prime lens is better than zoom lens, there are also some who believe that short range zoom is better than long range zoom and 18-200mm would be considered long range compared to 18-55mm.
If you are interested in the subject, there is a Nikon Forum where the pros and cons of prime lens vs short range zoom vs long range zoom are discussed at <a href="photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... location</a>
Cheeers
Joel
The 18-200 mm lense is excellent and more convenient to use than a two lens system. However, the cost of this lens is approximately $750.00! If this exceeds your budget, the 55-200 mm lens is available for approximately $250.00. This is also an excellent lens! I purchased the D40x two lens kit and have been very happy with the purchase.
Thanks,
Mubashar.
Good Luck
Unfortunately, such lens are expensive. A Nikon-brand 400mm lens could easily cost as much as the D40X.
One much-cheaper alternative is to buy a non-SLR camera with a long zoom. Two examples would be the Canon S3IS and the Olympus 550. The S3IS has a 12x zoom, while the new Olympus has an 18x zoom. One web site lists the two zooms as "432mm EFF and 504mm EFF" respectively. The "EFF" term refers to the effective focal length, which is employed due to the smaller sensors on the non-SLR cameras.
Also, any increase in the megapixels will help, but to a much smaller degree than increasing the focal length (the zoom). Any DOUBLING of the zoom is equivalent to the SQUARE of the megapixels. IE, a 3MP camera with a 6x zoom lens equals the achievable resolution of a 9MP camera with a 3x zoom lens (as you discovered with your 5MP P&S).
Bottom line: If you get a non-SLR, get at least a 12x zoom. Click on "EXTENDED ZOOM" to the <<<< left side of the screen.
You'll also want to use a Tripod - in macro photography a tripod can keeping your camera still and will greatly improve your shot (getting rid of camera shake) while experimenting with different settings without losing your composition.
Choose a small aperture (big number) if you want a large depth of field with everything in focus or a large aperture if you just want your main subject in focus. In macro photography you’ll probably want a shallow depth of field so select the largest aperture available.
Use manual focus. In macro photography, you are dealing with a tiny range of focusing which could be problematic for autofocus. Using manual will give you more control.
CompositionRemember the "rule of thirds." From wiki:
"The rule states that an image can be divided into nine equal parts by two equally-spaced horizontal lines and two equally-spaced vertical lines. The four points formed by the intersections of these lines can be used to align features in the photograph. Proponents of this technique claim that aligning a photograph with these points creates more tension, energy and interest in the photo than simply centering the feature would."
A good light source won't hurt either.
Finally, use a cable release to get the shot. This will keep the camera good and still while you engage the shutter.
Marco is what I was looking for. What I have been doing is taking my pictures (of flowers) with my DX VR Zoom 55-200MM lens. After I have the picture, I than view it on the monitor and use the playback zoom button to get the results I want. I did have the camera on Auto focus. I will try it on manual focus. I tried to attach a picture to my reply, however, it did not attach. Thanks again, Jane
Jason
You don't mention your budget, so I'll answer both ways (large vs small budget)
First of all, the nikon DSLR's have what is called an APS-sized sensor, which means that it does not cover the same field as a 35mm camera. What this means to you, is that any lens you put on the camera effectively increases its focal length by 1.5X. So an 18-55mm lens is equivalent to approx. a 28-80mm effective focal length. and a 55-200mm becomes 80-300mm. Many of the professional sports photographers you see at events are sporting 300mm lenses. The reason they are so large is that they are much faster lenses than those used by amateurs (they allow more light to reach the sensor/film, thereby permitting faster shutter speeds, which in turn give sharper action shots).
With the kind of pictures you are interested in taking, you need the longest focal length you can afford. I'm assuming you will be shooting NASCAR in the stands, rather from the pits. So
if you went with the 18-55mm and a 300mm (which by the way would give you an effective 400mm) you should be fine. Since this gives you an effective 28-80mm and a 400mm, it should meet your requirements. You will have a large gap between focal lengths, however. You can always fill that in later, of course.
A major concern with using long focal length lenses is that along with enlarging the perspective of the object being photographed, they also increase the effects of camera shake.
A rule of thumb is for you to use tha approximate same shutter speed as the focal length, and then hold the camera as steady as possible, i.e. 1/400 for a 400mm lens. Getting back to the example of professional sports photographers, if you take note, you will see most of them using something called a monopod. This is basically a big stick with a mounting device on top with which to attach the camera. A tripod (3 legs) would be the ideal steadying device, but these tend to be cumbersome, and although used extensively by wildlife photographers, who don't generally have to move quickly to get out of the way of fast moving athletes/objects, they are somewhat impractical for shooting sporting events, if you happen to be shooting from the sidelines. That said, You need to consider buying a tripod or monopod, or both. Another option would be to purchase one of Nikon's VR (vibration reduction) lenses, which provide enough stability to give you an extra 3 stops (increased shutter speed) while being hand held. These lenses tend to be somewhat pricey, however. The least expensive of these is the 55-200mm VR, which I believe is made in the AF-s format; it runs about $250 (street).
When you mentioned lens protectors, I assume you mean a protective filter, such as a UV (sometimes called haze), which fulfills the function of sharpening an image somewhat on a hazy day, but which most of us use to protect the lens glass from scrapes and scratches. This particular filter is popular because it has virtually no effect on exposure or color balance.
With regard to remote shutter releases, there are basically two types: radio/IR controlled (expensive), and what we used to call cable releases (not so expensive). The manual cable release is a good idea, and should be used if your camera is on a tripod, in order to avoid as much camera shake as possible while taking the picture.
You will, of course, need a bag to carry your kit. The cost of a bag varies all over the lot. From a relatively inexpensive one (around $40) up to a Billingham ($250 and up). They come in the form of shoulder bags and backpacks. The best criteria is to insure that they are comfortable to use, and protect your equipment from shocks and the environment.
Thanks so much for yor reply. It was very helpful. If you don't mind I have a couple of more questions. If I bought the camera and just got the standard 18-55 mm lens would it be better to get the 55-200mm lens and save up for say a 200-400mm lens or would I be better off to get just the standard and go ahead and get a 70-300mm lens. As far as price I will probably have about $1200 - $1300 dollars for everything. Also, on nikons website thaey have 3 different 70-300mm lens. Can you tell me the difference and which one I would need. 70-300mm f/4-5.6D ED AF Zoom-Nikkor, 70-300mm f/4-5.6D AF Zoom-Nikkor, and 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor. I guess what I am trying to say is that I would rather get a great smaller lens now and save for another one down the road than to get a sub par lens with a bigger zoom. Also, where is the best place on the internet to buy the camera and the lenses. Thanks in advance,
Jason
Nikon D40x camera w/ 18-55 3.5-5.6 AF-s DX lens
$699.95
Nikkor 70-300 4.5-5.6G ED IF AF-s VR $479.95
These are current prices @ B&H, and would give you pretty much the coverage you need.
The difference in the two 70-300 lenses you mentioned is the VR (vibration reduction), which is highly desireable in a longer focal length lens, as I mentioned before.
I'm also in the market for the same camera. I'm wondering if it is worth the expense to get the 18-200 AF-S VR lens in place of two lenses (18-55 and 55-200.) I have never owned a DSLR camera, but I'm thinking that the convenience of the 18-200 lens would be worth the extra cost. Thoughts?
thanks,
Shelley
VR means "vibration reduction" in Nikon speak. A lens with a VR designation helps to eliminate "camera shake" when you hand hold the camera when taking a picture. Camera shake is the primary reason people get blurry photos when they use a telephoto lens. A VR lens will typically allow you to achieve about 3 to 4 stops of extra handheld blur free photos at slower shutter speeds! In addition, VR allows you to get excellent shots in dim light. VR really works!
Given the advantages of VR lenses and the fact that the 55-200mm lens only costs about $70.00 dollars more than the non-VR version, I believe the answer to your question is a resounding YES. Incidentally, the June issue of PopPhoto reviews the 55-200mm lens and states that "Vibration Reduction makes this low-cost lens a veritable steal." Nuf said.
can you take videos with slr cameras?
If your interest in photography is serious, and your budget limited, I would suggest that you purchase an entry level digital SLR camera like the canon Rebel, NIkon D40, or Nikon D40x. Each of these cameras will take excellent pictures and, more importantly, allow you to expand your creativety as you gain more knowledge and experience. If ,as you say, you would also like to take short quality videos, then I would highly recommend purchasing an inexpensive compact all-in-one digital camera like the Canon A640 to supplement and complement your entry level digital SLR camera. In this way, you will have the best of both worlds.
When I want to check out a seller prior to making a purchase I use the web. "resellerratings.com" is a web site that lists different sellers, the number of user reviews, and the average rating for each seller. When I last checked, FotoConnection.com had 392 reviews and a rating of 1.85 on a 0-10 scale. Obviously, this is a very poor rating! When a price looks too good to be true it is almost always is! I suggest you make your purchase with a seller that is established and well respected. Some sites I have used include B and H, One Call, and Amazon. Good luck with your future purchase.
I read a camera shopper's horror story last night of a person who purchased a camera for nearly $3000 from a place in NY which sold online through several vendors. They were listed on Yahoo, Pricegrabber and ebay as well. They had used strong-arm sales tactics to try to force the sale of pricey accessories. When the customer didn't want the extra stuff, they were suddenly 'out of stock' on the camera. Things got really hairy and they treated the customer like dirt with threats to charge the credit card and not deliver anything etc. Apparently it turned out this happened to many customers, even though they had high ratings on ebay and Yahoo and other sites.
www.steves-digicams.com
www.imaging-resource.com
www.kenrockwell.com
In addition to the camera reviews, you will find a large body of information which can help you pick the right camer for you.
If your budget permits, you might consider the Canon 20D or 30D models. These cameras have a smaller minimum shutter speed (1/8000 s) than both the cameras you are currently considering which have a larger minimum shutter speed(1/4000 s). This could be important when you try to capture fast moving children. In any case, the data for the following table was gathered from reviews at www.imaging-resource.com Hopefully, you will find this information useful.
D40x/ Rebel
Power on 0.4s 0.25s
Shutter Lag 0.24-0.25s 0.20-0.24s
(Full Autofocus)
Shutter Lag 0.095s 0.095s
(Prefocused)
Continuous Speed 3.03 fps 3.0 fps
(7 shots) (14 frames)
ISO sensivity is analogous to film speed. As you increase the ISO sensitivity, less light is required for a proper exposure. To take indoor photos in low light, with no flash, you can increase the ISO sensitivity setting of your camera. The price you pay for increased ISO sensitivity is more noise in your photos. The D40x is noted for very little noise at higher ISO sensitivity settings than most comparable cameras! To change your ISO sensitivity, press the "MENU" button. Go to the SHOOTING MENU (Camera icon) and scroll down to ISO sensitivity. Press OK and you will see a list of ISO choices. I would try ISO values of 800 or 1600 for the conditions you describe. Good luck with your shooting.
Any help would be most appreciated.
However, D40X does not operate AF lenses in the same way as it does with AF-S lenses. So focussing for AF lenses have to be done manually.
I would not consider this a serious disadvantage as many Nikon users will be quite familiar with manual focussing if they started off with the traditional film SLRs. For others, turning the focussong ring is no big deal and you probably will get to like it because it gives more control over the picture you want to take.
The D40 and D40x both lack an autofocus motor in the camera, requiring it to be built into the lens. So any AF lens which requires the camera body to do the work will work only with manual focus.
Other Nikkor lenses will work too, but only in Manual mode with all adjustments done on the lens.
I was given some 20-30+ year old Nikkor lenses (marked 'Auto', not 'AF') and need to adjust everything on the lens.
The same goes for third party lenses. If you get a Tamron, Sigma, Quantaray or other 'AF' lens for your D40x, they will behave this way unless they specifically are designed for the D40/D40x.
I got some very good used lenses at great prices, but they are all manual focus.
Different people will make different recommendations based on their experiences, biases, and preferences. Both cameras take good/excellent pictures. Each camera has its unique strengths and weaknesses. Read the reviews for each camera at steves-digicams.com and imaging-resource.com to see what these strengths and weaknesses are. You will then be in a position to decide for yourself which camera is best for you.
I found myself in a position similiar to yours a short time ago. After much reflection, I purchased a Nikon D40x because quality Nikon lenses are available that are significantly less expensive than comparable Canon lenses- in the price range that fit my budget. Your budget may be different from mine. As I said before both cameras will allow you to take excellent pictures. Make a decision and don't look back and question your choice.
If I can make two quick additions to his good points:
1. Go to a camera shop and try both cameras out in-hand. With dSLRs, feel and how the camera responds to you are key in whether or not you'll enjoy the machine, so do what you can to try them both out before you buy.
2. In addition to Steve's and imaging-resource, I'd check the very comprehensive reviews at dpreview.com and dcresource.com.
Good luck!
After much research when looking into my camera, I found that there is very little difference between the two. The Nikon feels nicer in your hand in my opinion. The quality of photos they take are very similar.
The biggest point of difference for me was the auto focus points, with Canon having 9 (as opposed to Nikon's 3) which depending on your photographic style can be very useful.
You can't go wrong with either - they are both excellent, entry-level cameras.
Happy shooting!
First of all, D40X depends on the in-lens motor to do focussing and AF Nikkor does not have it. This means AF Nikkor will not work as autofocus lens once mounted on D40X.
Secondly, all the lens will have to be manually focussed on D40X. No big deal, say some. But manual focussing in film SLR is assisted by split screen, D40X doesn't have split screen and you are back to the guesstimate focussing of the old days.
Thirdly, D40X would require all non AF-S lens to lock aperture at the smallest size, F16 or F22 if there is one.
No problem, except for those who are used to do focussing at wide open aperture will now have to adapt to focussing at the smallest aperture. Still OK, but need getting used to.
On the bright side, I find metering is OK, picture still come out sharp and correctly exposed, but after playing with my AF Nikkor and the non-autofocus lens for a while, I am begining to yearn for the convenience of AF-S lens. May be not everybody feels the same, so don't get discouraged. Go ahead and get your D40X.
I've noticed most published d40/x/80 photos on the web look highly saturated. Would I be able to easily produce neutral tone, balanced photos with the d40x/80?
Also, look at pictures here: flickr.com/search/?q=nikon%... Granted, some of them are amateur, but some of them really have a handle on this camera. You'll be able to tell ;)
Don't stop yourself from getting this camera if you want it. You won't be disappointed.
How useful are the uploadable custom color curves in controlling overall color balance (tone) of generated photos?
The Nikon D40/40x and/or D80 cameras are quite capable of taking excellent pictures with the saturation level you feel is appropriate for your photos. Obviously, what is too much or too little saturation is somewhat subjective. The import point is that you can fine tune the color, contrast, sharpness, saturation and hue when you first set up your camera. In the D40/D40x cameras you will find the "Optimize Image" submenu within the main "Shooting" menu. Here, you will find numerous choices that affect the color and saturation levels of your photos. I'm quite sure you can find a combination of choices that will satisfy your desire for a more neutral tone.
This can be done as follows :
Turn the camera on, turn mode dial to 'A'. - you can also turn to P, S or M but not ' Auto '
Press ' Menu ' button.
Press down arrow to highlight ' Custom Setting Menu ' - the pencil icon
Press OK
Highlight 04 Shooting Mode using down arrow.
Press OK
highlight Continuous
Press OK
lightly press the shutter button and the menu screen will disappear.
That's it and you are now ready to shoot in continuous mode.
For what it is, the 18-135 isn't "bad". It's just ok. Get yourself the 18-200mm VR lens, and don't look back. I shoot Canon, and wish that they made a lens like this. And when you eventually trade up your D40X, you will still keep this lens. You won't need another lens. If you must have one of the other 2, go for the 18-55, and play around with it. It is an underrated lens. But I'm telling you, 18-200mm; you won't be sorry. It was on backorder for almost a year, that's just how good it is.
Hope this helps.
So I decided to get the 18-55 and play around with it for now. I will get the 18-200 VR when I want to upgrade the D40x. I just wish I saw your advice earlier...
The effective optical zoom is determined by the lens you use with your DSLR camera. The 18-55 mm kit lens for the Nikon D40/D40x has an effective optical zoom of 55/18 = 3X. If you replace this lens with an 18-200 mm lens, the effective optical zoom is now 200/18 = 11.1X. When I bought my camera, I purchased an 18-55 mm lens and a 55-200 mm lens. The 18mm allows me to take reasonable wide angle shots and the 200mm allows me to take reasonable telephoto shots. In addition, compared to the 18 mm, (wide angle) setting the 200 mm (telephoto) setting gives me an effective 11.1 optical zoom. Note that:
(55/18)(200/55) = 11.1X
Hopefully, this brief explanation answers your question.
Keith
At the present time the monitor on most DSLR cameras is only used to review photographs that have been previously taken. Unlike a point and shoot camera, most DSLR monitors cannot be used to compose a picture just before you press the shutter-release button. This is the case with your D40x. The camera was simply not designed to do what you want. When you take a picture with the D40x you must look through the the optical viewfinder eyepiece to compose your shot. With a little practice you will find that your camera takes excellent pictures and using the viewfinder becomes second nature to you. Hope this information helps.
Sincerly,
Vince
To slightly expand on what Vince said; SLR cameras have a mirror inside that moves with the shutter. When you look through the viewfinder you are looking through the lens of the camera, which reflects the light off of the shutter mirror upward into a prism, which in turn reflects the image to your eye. When the shutter opens, the mirror moves up out of the way of the light path, allowing the image to project on the film or CCD chip. It also give the camera that satisfying 'ka-chunk' feeling when the shutter and mirror move.
Since the CCD chip only sees the image when the mirror is up, there is no way (using the primary CCD chip) to use the camera in the 'point-and-shoot' "preview" mode that most low end digital cameras have.
The advantage of this system is that you look through the same lens that the CCD chip does, so you see *exactly* what the image will look like. Digital SLRs typically use larger and more sensitive CCD chips than the lower-end point-and-shoot cameras. The better optics combined with the larger chip (hence larger projected image) mean that the quality of pictures in a DSLR vs point-and-shoot for the same megapixel count is much higher. The higher price tag also gets you better internal electronics that allows the camera to store the image faster.
You've hit on the primary disadvantage: no 'preview' mode.
So, any lenses you decide to get should work with your old film camera, although you'll find yourself never using it once you get your dSLR. Now, the D40 is an awesome camera and costs about $700. It has 10MP, which will let you blow up your pictures when you want to, 3fps continuous shooting, a nice LCD screen, and more.
I'm partial to the Canon 400D Rebel XTi, though, and it's almost the exact same price. In fact, I like the 400D more than the 80D, which is almost $200 more. HOWEVER, this is a big preference issue. I would strongly encourage you to hold them at a store and see which one feels better in your hands. There's nothing worse than carrying around a camera you're uncomfortable with.
If it were ME, though, I'd let the Sigma lens rest in peace with the N60 and enter the new age with the 400D. Just me, though. Whichever choice you make, you're getting an amazing camera!
Note: Just to see how amazing, search the 400D and D40 at www.flickr.com, and see what you can do :)
If they are, with pixels evenly distributed and not cluttered to the dark side, then you can fine tune the computer screen to the bright side to see brighter pictures.
The reasoning is if the pictures appear great on your camera, it should be the same on the computer.
Histograms can be seen in D40X itself or in Photoshop. There are a lot of websites that help you to understand more of histogram. Try to key in ' Reading Histogram ' in the search field will bring out most of them. If you prefer, go straight to shortcourses.com/how/histog...
to see how it can help you to understand your pictures.
secondly, D40X does not have an auto focus pin like D80 or earlier film SLR Nikons. So you will lose the auto focus function and have to use the lens manually.
Lastly, you will have metering problem with your Tamron and have to estimate the exposure yourself.
Despite the little trouble mentioned, there are people who like their old Nikon lenses and have been using them on D40X. In the same way, you can use it if the mounting match.
The D40/D40x are not the latest Nikon DSLR cameras. I believe the D3 and D300 hold that honor. The D3 retails for about $5,000 and the D300 for about $1,800. The D40x currently sells for approximately $750 with the excellent 18-55mm kit lens included with the camera. Clearly, the D40/D40x offers the greatest bang-for-the-buck! Instead of looking for the latest camera, examine your budget and how you will use your camera. Just because a new camera model is available, it dosn't mean it is the best camera for you. Before buying your camera, look at the model reviews at sites like steves-digicams.com, imaging-resource.com, and dcresourse.com. Finally, go to a camera store and examine the models you are interested in. Sometimes one camera feels better in your grip than another, has a feature you need, or accessaries that are not available on another model.
Also if it helps, I transfer all my photos to the computer with a seperate adapter, making the USB speed through the Camera not important.
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on.
There are different speed grades available which are measured with the same system as CD-ROMs, in multiples of 150 kB/s. Basic cards transfer data up to six times the data rate of the standard CD-ROM speed (900 kB/s, vs. 150 kB/s). High-speed cards are made with higher data transfer rates like 66x (10 MB/s), and high-end cards have speeds of 150x or higher. Some digital cameras require high-speed cards to record video smoothly or capture multiple still photographs in rapid succession. As of December 2005, most devices comply to the SD card specification 1.01, with maximum speed of 66x. Higher speeds of up to 133x are defined by specification 1.1.
The speed designations are classes 1-4. The higher the class number, the faster the card. But the "X" rating is what you want to look for. The higher the "x" the faster.
Thanks, but....
Can my camera do 133X or is 60X all the camera can do?
So, I think you can get what you can afford. If that's 133x, then by all means, go for it.
I like the Canon Xti Digital Rebel or 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or D80.
For point and shoots, I like the macro capability of the Olympus 560UZ. But again, you gotta think about a photobox and lighting.
The optical zoom range of a dslr camera is determined by the lens attached to the camera. Rounded off, the 18-55 mm kit lens for the D40/40x has an optical zoom range of 55/18 = 3X. If you replace the 18-55 mm lens with an 18-200mm lens, the effective zoom range is 200/18 = 11X.
Although it is pretty expensive (especially ink!) to print your pictures at home, it can be cost effective if you buy your ink and paper in mass bulk (assuming you print out a ton of pictures). As for me, I take all my digital pictures to stores to print out, usually for around $.15 and $.19 each (there are also a ton of deals for 20 or more free pictures at places like Kodak, CVS, Walgreens, etc just for going there the first time). I would strongly encourage you to print the same dozen pictures out at several different places to see which development you like better. Honestly, I saw no difference in quality between quality brands like Kodak, and CVS and WalMart. I now just take my pictures to whereever has the best deal. The nice thing about digital is that it only requires a printer to print what's there, not a development facility to read negatives and reproduce the exact color... all professional photo printers should print identically. I mean, it's digital... what's on the card is impossible to interpolate... each pixel has its color, and the printers just print it, no thought or manual labor necessary.
But, prove it for yourself :) Try CVS and Kodak, for example (they both give away free pictures) and see if you prefer one over the other. Sometimes, just the type of paper they use may give you a preference (softer vs. sharper overall pictures... and everyone has a preference).
The shutter is designed to keep light out of your camera untill you press the shutter release button. Once you do, the shutter mechanism opens momentarily to allow light to enter your camera and strike your image sensor. Shutter speed is the time your shutter remains open during an exposure. Proper exposure requires an appropriate combination of shutter speed and aperture diameter. Fortunately, your camera automatically selects both unless you set the shutter speed and/or aperture values manually using the shutter priority, aperture priority, or manual modes on your camera.
I googled "nikon d40x in malaysia" and found the following on one of the listed links.
Nikon(Malaysia) Sdn Bhd
11th Floor, Block A,
Menara PKNS,
No. 17, Jalan Young Shook Lin,
46050 Petaling Jaya,
Selangor Darul Ehsan.
Phone: +603-7809 3688
Email: Consumer.Products@nikonoa.net
Hope this helps!
If something is grey market, it means that - although you may have gotten a great deal on it - it doesn't come with a warranty that will be honored here in this country. Which means if something goes wrong with the camera, you'll either have to send it to China to repair or pay to have it fixed yourself.
Be warned.
Also grey market items are mostly just imported through third parties to the US, and arent necessarily the "foreign" versions.
Sorry for being unclear, what i meant by "clear conditions" pertained to the location of repair, or fufillment of warranty, for that matter. The repairs I had done to one of my lenses took place at the source, no sending of any kind. This may be an unusual way of getting business done, but it was my expierence.
If it's JPEG, then it will be compatible.
If you mean will the camera show up in iPhoto when you hook it up, i believe it will. Someone I know has a Nikon, and it shows up in iPhoto. I think the only main company that has cameras that won't hook up with iPhoto is Kodak, but don't hold me to it.
My camera kit (there are different kits available) came with both. If you buy your camera online, click on "Whats in the box" for a full list of whats included in your purchase. If you make your purchase in a brick and mortar store, you can open the box to inspect the contents. In any case, I would advise you to purchase an extra battery when you make your purchase.
Regards,
Sure Raju
In short, with there being no D80x, it would be worth it to save money and go with the D40x and a good AF-S motor lens, like the 18-55 or the 18-200.
i`m buyying 1 ;)
Thanks, Carol (artressa)
It was a little rambly and confusing, sorry, but i hope I helped.
Josh
How advantageous would it be to swing for the 800? I'm worried ill be paying for things i wont ever use...
You can use the SB-600 as a slave flash with the Nikon D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). In fact it has a "TTL flash control by 420-pixel RGB sensor. i-TTL balanced fill-flash for digital SLR and standard i-TTL fill-flash for digital SLR available when CPU lens is used with
[the] SB-600." You can find more in the camera's specifications ( nikonusa.com/fileuploads/pd... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
tem
Andrew
thanks again
tem
When you connect the SB-600, it goes in the hot-shoe on top of the camera. This disables the pop-up flash that comes with the camera.
Andrew
thanks to both of you for taking time on my query.....
tem
Glad we could help. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
thnk you!
Andrew
I am trying to decide between the Nikon 40x and the Olympus 510, which has built-in anti shake in the camera itself.
I don't see any problem with using the 18-200 as your primary lens. With the advancement of lens glass over the years, you get away with the stigma of fixed length lenses. Plus, you don't have to deal with constantly switching your lens when out shooting. I would go for it.
Andrew
Thanks, Andrew. Do you think that I will have any problems with close up shots if I commit to this one lens?
I highly endorse this lens, its incredably versitile and a lot of fun to use.
I would definitely agree with Josh on this.
Andrew
I don't currently own a Nikon camera body but intend to buy one as my next camera with that lens being the determining factor. Does that sound like an answer to your question?
JF
paint.net (www.getpaint.net)
gimp (www.gimp.org)
BUT, whatever lenses you choose, because its really a matter of what you want to do with the camera, I would really suggest that you stick to Nikon Nikkor lenses, simply because of the oddity of the D40x mount, and because of the nearly flawless glass, you cant beat it.
I also endorse the use of a tripod to help reduce camera shake and that will give you better photos for when the shutter is open longer.
This is compatible with Windows XP. A lot of vendors don't feel it necessary to advertise that since the majority of issues come with Vista compatibility. You can see the other compatible systems in the camera's user manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ) on page 55. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
This camera would work just fine. What really matters in this case is the lens you choose. You'll need one no longer than 18mm, and I would recommend going down to a 10mm lens with the widest aperture you can find (lowest f/stop number). If you do go with a Nikon camera, you could get something like this Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8 ( amazon.com/Nikon-10-5mm-2-8... ) lens. This lens might have some issues because it is a fish-eye. You might see some distortion at the edges. This Sigma 17-35mm ( amazon.com/Sigma-17-35mm-2-... ) lens would also work. I would also recommend getting a tri-pod to avoid any camera shake. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
You can definitely do that. I actually use an 18-200mm lens for interior shots so I can get some good DoF closeups. If you can't get one down at a f/2.8 aperture level, you will definitely need the tri-pod to avoid camera shake. You will most likely need some lighting as well to make sure the room is bright enough in the right spots. A flash will cause a lot of shadows. Good luck.
Andrew
I would say that a digital SLR is definitely the way to go. This camera fits the category perfectly. The lens that you couple with the camera is what will really make the difference. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
just dont know how to give u points!!
It looks like you figured it out, and we welcome you to the site. Please come back with any more questions.
Andrew
Can you tell me the differences in these two camera and help me choose the best one.
thanks
Both cameras have 10.2 MP resolution, the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.shopping.c... ) has a slighty faster frames per second rate, and will have more exposure control options with temperature control. It will also let you manually adjust the flash settings. Those are not huge differences, but they are differences. I think the bigger question is how much you want to spend. I have a friend that owns the D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and she loves it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The major difference I can point out is that "the D40X doesn't have an built-in focus drive motor which means it can auto focus only with lenses which have their own drive motor (AF-S and AF-I lenses). The lack of a drive motor can be seen by the missing mechanical focus drive pin on the lens mount."
The D80 has the motor, so it can focus lenses that do not have the motor.
As Andrew Stated, They both have the same 10.2 MP resolution.
I believe that the D40X is more of a consumer camera, and the D80 is a professional/semi professional camera. The D80 will give you more opportunity to adjust the pictures in the camera, but you will be paying more for it.
To display all menu choices do the following:
Press MENU
Highlight the wrench icon
Highlight the CSM Setup menu
Press OK
Highlight Full
Press OK
Hope this helps.
everything works afterwards, the taken photo is displayed, and i can veiw all prevous images.
just cant line up the photos via the digital screen?
On most DSLR cameras the LCD display is only used to review photos you have previously taken. Unlike simple point and shoot cameras, your "digital screen" cannot be used to view a scene just before you press the shutter release button to take a picture. This is the case with your D40/D40x. Simply put- you are expecting the camera to do something it was not designed to do. To compose your shot using a D40/D40x you must use the optical viewfinder-not the LCD display. With just a little practice this will become second nature to you. Enjoy your photography!
Vince is correct. The reason why it can not/or is designed not is the way the SLR cameras are designed. If you read here:
electronics.howstuffworks.c...
It shows how a film slr camera works. A digital SLR such as the D40X is the same, but the CCD (the chip that captures light) is where the film goes. On a point and Shoot camera, the CCD recieves light all the time, and just captures an image at that instant, where the CCD in an SLR camera only recieves light when a picture is being taken. By doing this and Using a larger CCD, much better quality pictures are taken.
hope this helps.
Skyler
For the variety of activities your wife will use this for, I would buy the camera without a body, and get a more versatile lens. I would opt for a 18-200mm lens (I use one for my Canon). You can get either a Nikon version ( amazon.com/Nikon-18-200mm-3... ) or another ( amazon.com/Sigma-18-200mm-3... ). The price is a big difference in these lenses, but you're going to find that the auto-focus and glass in the Nikon lens are much nicer. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
And it's not like I work for National Geographic and I'm shooting in the Sahara. I'm talking normal use here, like at a little league game or something like that. Thanks for any help.
cleaningdigitalcameras.com/
Larry
I would recommend you cut and paste your message into a new post as a totally new question. It is currently unlikely to be seen because it is at the bottom of an unrelated question.
Larry
I have all questions, and answers, email to me if it concerns D40X and I am sure there are many around who receive similar mails.
The difference actually lies in whether the OP wants a wider audience, and/or a quick response. If the answer is ' Yes ', then by all means post it as a new question, otherwise it is all right to post it under this question because I have seen long threads which eventually drifted away from the original subjects.
Take this question for example. ' How bad does it hurt D40X ' was never addressed although James do have a point when he said ' ... I don't think you will run into an issue much', and James have a second point close to it when he said ' ... self cleaning sonic sensor is a nice feature ( to have ) ... '
Many consumers are often confused by the so called ' selling points ' of cameras, and self cleaning sensor unit is probably one of them. Such ' selling points ' are features that are nice to have, but not so important that you can't take pictures without it.
James put it quite well when he said ' great pictures were taken long before it.....' although this statement may draw criticism that films and CCDs are different in their cleansing requirement. But come to think of it, dust settling on the film could be as bad as dust settling on CCDs without going into the details of how charged CCD may attract more dust.
For the average user, who does not change lenses often, dust probably is not a problem. I have D70, D80 and D40 for varying periods of time. To-date I don't remember encountering any dust problem at all, although I do change lenses quite often with the D80.
For further reading in the Sensor Dust issue, those interested may want to read the article<a href="robertphotoblog.com/2007/au... Sensor Cleaning - does it work</a> and another article <a href="500th.net/sensor-dust"... Sensor Dust issue</a>
After reading these articles, and many more if one Google for ' Sensor dust issue ', one will appreciate what James mean when he said ' .. it is a nice feature ( to have) ....'
Anne, or people curious about the answer(s), could follow up from there.
My 2 cents worth (since you asked):
1. Be sure you really need that Teleconverter before you buy it. With 10 MP this camera makes photos which can be cropped and enlarged while maintaining great clarity. Try taking a few fully zoomed shots with some object near the center that you would like to zoom in even more. Then put it in your computer and crop and enlarge. It may result in quality that is acceptable to you and possibly even as good as what you would have gotten with the teleconverter anyway (especially in those slightly low light dusk and twilight shots that are the best time for dramatic outdoor pictures, plus that's when the animals come out for their portraits to be made).
2. For advice on cleaning your sensor try this URL:
cleaningdigitalcameras.com/
or just Google on "clean slr sensor" and you'll find a bunch of sites to try.
Looks like I've run out of cents.
Larry
Many thanks for the points.
Larry
In the evenings, when you have more time, try to set the flash to on for other modes, including ' Auto '.
Let's start with ' Auto ' mode :
with the Mode Dial at Auto mode, turn the camera on. The screen will light up for one or two seconds.
Press the ' + " button, at the bottom left hand corner.
Press it a second time and the settings for picture taking will appear.
One of the settings will be highlighted with solid orange rectangle. Use the down arrow of the 4 way switch, move the high lighted area to ' Flash ' at the bottom left corner.
Press ' OK ' button.
You will be presented with 3 options. Use the up arrow and move the high lighted rectangle to just flash alone, ie the first choice.
Press ' OK ' button.
Press the ' Info ' button or wait 2 or 3 seconds, the screen will turn off and you are ready to take pictures, with flash.
A few other modes can be reset in the same way, if you have more time. Otherwise just use the Auto mode for this vacation and try the rest later.
Enter Menu mode with the 'Menu' button, go to the Custom Setting Menu (third menu down, looks like a pencil icon) and check option number 14: Built-in Flash. If it is set to 'Manual', then change it to 'TTL'.
Thanks, Carol (artressa)
Yes lenses and focal length can get a bit confusing. That's what happens when companies use random ways to express zoom. On a point and shoot (PAS) camera, the zooms are usually expressed as X. All this means is 4X is four times the zoom of the smallest zoom available. However, often they do not state what the smallest focal length is.
On the other hand, SLR cameras express the focal length in mm. This makes it super easy to compare how much each lense can zoom.
here is a good place to start...
frogprints.co.nz/help/focal...
also, if you're interested in the D40X. I would read...
dpreview.com/reviews/nikond...
Hope this helps
Larry
dpnotes.com/canon-eos-400d-...
I'm thinking to buy Canon xti or Nikon D40x but can't decide which one. I'm just a regular mom taking family pictures etc. Any advise? Thanks for your help
This review really helped me decide:
dpnotes.com/canon-eos-400d-...
I own a nikon D40x, and its my first dSLR. I knew going in that it was going to be a slightly steeper learning curve than the canon counterpart, and that i would be getting the most bang for my buck. I love it. If your willing to tackle the learning curve to the dSLR cameras, then i would suggest the D40x, or even teh D40, that is also a very solid camera.
Another reason the Nikon is superior, in my opinion, is that while you can only use the Nikon Nikkor Af-s line lenses (if you want autofocus) that have an F mount, any lens made by Nikkor will be using the best glass in the world, and it doesnt matter what lens you have on your camera if the glass is crap. Not choosing teh D40x because of the lens mount and the lack of a auto focus motor in the body would be a short sighted mistake because of the lens line that is offered for it and the quality of that lens line.
There are obviously many factors that go into determining which camera is better, and even then, in the end, its a matter of opinion. However, I can confindently say that the D40x is a better, more versitile, and higher quality choice.
People who place more importance on sensor size, and believe that larger sensor gives better quality pictures, probably will opt for Nikon D40, while those who are attracted by the ' live view ' feature probably will opt for E510.
E510 also has a 10 mega pixel sensor while D40 has 6. ( D40X of course has 10 meg sensor ).
While higher mega pixels allows for more liberal cropping without seriously affecting picture quality, 6 mega pixels cameras were the accepted standard of yesteryears ' professional camera '. So D40 is not any less ' professional ' than D40X, considering the fact that apart from the sensor, there are very little difference between the two except for the price.
The argument then becomes ' even if I don't do cropping very often, for the same price, why should I buy a 6 meg camera when I can get one with 10. '
On the question of 'glass', both Olympus and Nikon has stocks of good lens, better lens and professional lens, depending on how much more one wants to pay. Many average Users are quite happy with the lens that comes fitted as ' kit lens ', while a lot of Nikon owners even look for substitute lens made by Sigma, Tamron or Tokina and are quite satisfied with the results. So the argument that ' one buys Nikon because it has very good lens ' may not be the main reason for buying a Nikon for the average Users.
Lastly, there are a few points on feel, handling, reliability, service backup which depend very much on individual User, and countries.
Nikon Users probably enjoy a wider network of service support, whether in developed countries or developing countries. But again, service charges of Nikon is not cheap except during warranty period. So if one opts for ordinary camera repair shops, service backup probably is not what matters.
At the end of the day, the choice probably hinge on two issues : what is more important to you - live view and high resolution sensor or trust Nikon's reputation, reliability and popularity to give you a good buy. Either one will give you a good family camera while Nikon would have a better resale value, if you want to upgrade.
You should be just fien witht he kit lens. The camera body has great settings with a fast shutter speed to catch the subjects you want. A 135mm fixed macro lens would be better for close up shots of insects, flowers, and other small items that you want a nice full frame picture of. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Larry
Thank you for your helpful answer. Hall
I'm glad we could help. Please come back to DCHQ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with any more questions or issues. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
To select a Language:
Press the MENU button
Scroll to the "Setup menu" (wrench icon)
Press the multi selector to the right to access the menu choices
Highlight "Language" from the displayed list
Press the OK button on the multi selector
Scroll to English (En)
Press the OK button to confirm your selection
Hope this helps!
It may be an issue with the lens. I've heard of issues with lenses not made by the same manufacturer as the body having fit issues. Did you try to get Opteka to send a replacement lens? That may be the way to go. Good luck.
Andrew
your 2 problems can be solved as follows :
1. Lens not attached : turn the mode dial to ' M ' and the message will disappear. You can start taking pictures after that. But you still have to focus manually and adjust the aperture and shutter speed manually.
2. Disengage lens : press the big black button on the body,just beside the lens on the left hand side.
This will release the pin to allow you to turn the lens clockwise to disengage.
The pin is designed to lock the lens so that it won't drop under any circumstances.
Problem mounting T mount lens on Nikon D40: Lens Not Attached
(I don't actually have the camera yet - this all stems from a salesman trying to sell me a "better" card than what came in the package I purchased. I probably wouldn't even notice the difference, but I want to know if the sleazebag was right.)
The faster the card, the quicker the write time. However, you need to be sure your camera can take the fastest card he's trying to sell you. A chain is only as strong (or in this case as fast) as it's weakest link. If the camera can only write at 80x (for example only) then having a 133x card won't do you any good. But if there's a firmware update that addresses that issue, then I say get the fastest card you can afford.
Good luck!
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
I take nature/wildlife photos...I am taking pictures of birds about 30 feet from where I am standing (using a tripod)...zoomed all the way (using a 70-300 lens). (Nikon lens and D40X camera.
thanks, sherri
Soooooo, make sure you are using autofocus, look through the viewfinder and adjust the diopter setting until it is in focus for you. Now the two should be in sync and you can switch to the manual focus if you want to.
Also, if you do wear glasses, sometimes the diopter adjustment won't adjust enough to allow you to see in focus without your glasses and you'll have to use you glasses when viewing. In that case you should have your glasses on when you do the above adjustment of the diopter on the viewfinder.
Best wishes, Larry
You made it easy to understand.
Thanks, and take care
sherri
However, D40X controls shutter speed, focusing and aperture electronically. Mounting lenses designed for FTN camera on D40X means you lose all these conveniences and have to do everything manually. It's a bit slow but can be done.
The only consolation, for using old manual lenses, is D40X will beep and show a green light if focusing is correctly done.
Probably many users would depend heavily on the eye for focusing, but I find the green light does help in low light condition.
D40X also pampers AFS lens users with an audible 'beep' besides ' locking ' the focusing mechanism when the subject is in focus. Manual lens users have to miss such conveniences and take a little more care in turning the focusing ring.
The bright side is, like you said, old Nikon lenses can be mounted on D40X and the ' conveniences ' are not that critical and should not discourage owners from using them.
Mix well with patience and some continuous mode shooting. Increase ISO only if needed.
Take lots and lots of images hoping for a few good ones at first. As you get better you can begin to pre-aim for where the action is going to be and stand ready to shoot at that spot having prefocused your camera in advance.
Enjoy and let me know how it worked out or come back and ask more questions.
Another way to look at it is this: By shooting in A mode you control the aperture size and the camera chooses whatever shutter speed will make a properly exposed picture. This works well because the camera has many more shutter speeds to choose from than there are aperture settings to choose from. Check out this website:
forum.digitalcamerareview.c...
Try it and let me know what you experience.
The D40X would work excellently for what you are looking for. However, if the point of these pictures are only to put on a website with minimal amount of pixlels, (Not fully blown up to huge porportions) I don't think its the camera for you. The D40X takes pictures at 3872 x 2592. Most monitors are hardly 1280 X 1024 so at full screen, 1/4 the size the D40X takes. Mega Pixels aren't everything, Try looking at the D40 if all you'll ever do is small website things. Also, try maybe a Point and Shoot camera. You're going to end up having to shrink them down anyways.
Take a look here:
nikonimaging.com/global/pro...
It shows a sample image, then if you click it, the full image. If you need the detail and quailty go for it. If not, look somewhere else. I'm not saying it's a terrible camera, (I love mine) I think its like buying a School Bus to drive to work 2 blocks away.
But I guess those are trade-offs for having the flexibility of a digital SLR.
Thanks :-)
For Nikon, there's the Nikon D40X ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the D80. For Canon, you're looking at the entry level Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the new XSi, the EOS 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or if money is no option, then you'd be looking at the EOS-1Ds Mark III.
Where you really want to think about tossing your money is in the glass. Better lenses make for better images, plain and simple. and if you're going into business, you want the best money can buy.
So let us know what your budget is and we can give you some ideas.
I would go for a camera with at least 8MP. Any digital SLR should be just fine for this. What you'll need to take into account is the type of lighting and lens that you use with it. Your lighting should create an even shadow on each side of your paintings as they lay flat or on the wall. I would set the camera up on a tripod and use a wide angle lens on the camera (17-28mm). Make sure you leave room in your photo around the artwork to avoid "warping" of the sides. You can then crop the image down to the painting and avoid this bending of the image. I hope this helps.
Andrew
To convert colored pictures to Sepia tone, you can go to ' Retouch Menu ' and select ' Monochrome '.
Three options will appear, namely ' black and white ', ' Sepia ' and ' Cyanotype '
Select ' the one you need and press OK button.
Black and White pictures can also be taken in ' P, S, A or M ' mode.
If you want to take B&W pictures direct, set the mode dial to one of these modes and press ' Menu ' button.
Select ' Shooting Menu ' > ' optimize Image ' > 'Black & White' , pressing OK button after each selection.
When you change settings in different modes, most cameras save those settings for that mode. If you go into your camera's menu mode, you can switch out of the B&W setting. You need to go into the "My Menu" section from the CSM/Setup Menu, then select the "Optimize Image" section. You can toggle the black and white section by selecting BW. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Press ' Menu ' button and select ' Shooting Menu '.
The first option on the right column is ' Optimize Image '. Use right arrow button, high-light it and press OK.
In the next window, hight-light the first option ' Normal ' and click OK
Your camera will be back to normal and will take colored pictures.
If you are currently using it on a Nikon camera, then it should transfer. Depending on the lens' mount type, you may lose auto focus capabilities. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Also, is this the camera recommeded for a very fast "capture the moment" speed (at a reasonable price)? I am constantly missing THE SHOT of my kids because my camera is too slow.
Yes, you can review the photos already taken and throw away the ones you don't want to keep.
Any decent digital SLR will beat the Point and Shoot cameras anyday for "capture the moment" speed.
Ashley,
Only Olympus makes a dSLR which allows viewing the picture on the LCD in real time. I think they have two models out now which do what you want.
You are correct. Live View is the name being used now for dSLR's with LCD real time viewing. It seems like new models with this ability are released every week.
1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
10. Faster lenses will also help. The fstop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.
I think much of that can be attributed to a learning curve and novices who don't practice prefocusing and panning with the action. There's a good chance that if you just hit the shutter all the way without prefocusing, a subject moves, there's camera shake, or the camera isn't choosing the right focus point. Prefocusing and composing the picture ahead of time is a good way to combat the blurriness.
As for reviewing the picture, page 75 states that photos can be reviewed by pressing the > button.
Good luck.
Both Canon and Nikon make great cameras. If you're looking at the two brands, I would recommend going into a retailer to hold both in your hands and see which is more comfortable. You also have to consider budget and what lenses you want with a dSLR. Lenses can run a lot of extra money if you want something specific. Good luck.
Andrew
for shutter speeds, i have numbers like 30", 1.6", 80, 125, and till 4000.
if they were to be said in those fractions, can i take for example, 125 as 1/125?
thanks.
This camera is terrific, but there are others out there. The Nikon D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is one of the best values out there right now. It is a great entry level dSLR that works with some great lenses. If you're looking for a favorite by professionals and your budget isn't that much of a question, you might try the Canon 40D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with advanced light metering and custom settings that you might like for winter sports photography.
In any case, lenses and filters are going to be key for the specific photography you are looking for. I would get a polarized filter to reduce glare. To avoid blue hues in your photos (often seen from glare on snow), I would get an 85B filter to adjust the light accordingly. As for lenses, I would invest in a good 70-300mm lens. Since you can't get up close and personal with the athletes, the greater magnification will help you fill the frame better.
I hope this helps.
Andrew
I'm glad we could help. Please come back with any questions or issues.
Andrew
I have a couple different lens types that I use. What camera are you going to go with?
Andrew
Angus
Tamron ( tamron.com/ ) actually makes some decent lenses for both Nikon and Canon. I would recommend their 18-250mm lens for versatility. I'm not really sure where you heard the Canon wasn't good for snow or why. I wouldn't have a problem using it there. In either case, I would definitely get a lens with at least 200mm capability if not more.
Andrew
For a good all round camera, I would recommend the Tamron 18-250mm lens for Nikon cameras ( amazon.com/Tamron-18-250mm-... ). It will give you a broader range for the shots you want to get as well as a long zoom to get closer to your subjects or help create the more artistic DoF photos. I use a similar lens for my Canon when I shoot weddings ( blackdoorphotos.com/wedding... ). That link has some examples I've shot from that lens. You'll spend less and get a decent lens for your camera. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Nikon offers remote control through your computer with their Camera Control Pro 2 ( nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Niko... ) software.
Andrew
Andrew
For what you want to do, I would definitely go with a dSLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). There are a lot to choose from, so you have to look at your budget and take into account how much your extras are going to cost. As for a lens, if you just want to start out and get something thats is decently versatile, I would go for a Tamron Di II 18-250mm Asphyrical lens ( tamron.com/lenses/prod/1825... ). They are less expensive than the name brands and they make lenses that work with Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Pentax (not all 4 at once though). You should also take into account that you should get an extra battery or two as well as at least 2 memory cards and a good camera bag. If you're serious about your photography, I would also recommend picking up a tripod for steadier shots.
Andrew
That lens does not have vibration reduction, but it should still work fine. Between the two cameras above, there isn't a big difference between them that I can see. If they were my only choices, I would go with the less expensive D40x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). As for other brands, Nikon makes excellent cameras. I, personally, shoot with Canon cameras. It is just a preference in the user interface on my part though.
I would recommend going to a camera shop and holding a couple in your hands to see what you're comfortable with. I've found that a photographer will take better pictures the more comfortable they are with their equipment. I hope this helps.
Andrew
I'm glad we could help clear things up for you at least a bit. Please feel free to come back with more questions or issues.
Andrew
I own a Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and just love it. The 9 point AF isn't something I use a lot though. What I do like is the lighter feel of the camera (I carry it around a lot), and it's user interface.
Larger lenses will increase the weight of the camera significantly. The VR in the Nikon D80's ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) body also adds to the weight of the camera. If it's in your budget and you like the feel I would go with it.
Andrew
I don't even really know what I have. How can I figure it all out, and what's the best way to "learn" how to use all of this stuff? I'll be doing a lot of food photography as well as composed stuff.
Although I do agree that if you do take the home plunge, the Epson Photo printers are by and large the best ones going, followed by Canon.
Thank you for any advice
"Other ways to increase performance are:
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
6. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.
Doing these, particularly prefocusing and panning with the action will cut your shutter lag by as much as 80%."
Hopefully he doesn't mind me quoting him, but quite frankly this is the best way to go about it.
With a nice camera like the Nikon D40 you should check out photography courses in your area, and then you can enjoy all of its great capabilities.
easypano.com/panorama-softw...
Hope this helps.
Answer deleted on 26 Nov08.
OP probably don't need the item anymore.
You also need to ask how much zoom you want. How far will you be from your subjects? How big of a close up do you want? The further away you are and the closer you want to zoom on your subjects, the longer the lens you'll need.
You will need to know the kind of conditions you'll be taking the photos in. If you're going to be outside, a tigheter aperture (higher f/ number) will suffice and not cost you as much, where if you're taking photos in lower light situations, or at indoor or evening sporting events, you'll want a lens with an aperture of f/2.8 or wider. This will cost you a lot more, but be worth the quality you get.
Knowing the answers to all of the above will help you pinpoint the lens you want to pick. I hope this has helped.
Andrew
The VR helps but not as much as some other systems I've used such as Panasonics Mega-OIS.
When this happens, set the speed to a lower value, and the ISO to a higher value, until the message saying " subject is too dark " disappears.
Alternatively, you can let the camera decide by turning the mode dial to ' sports ', which is an auto setting for moving objects.
Sometimes you need only to adjust one, but in extreme situations, a combination of all three may be necessary, including the use of a tripod and VR lens.
There are much to be said about VR lenses and buying a Nikon DX VR 18-200mm probably will help a lot if you prefer to go the VR with automatic setting way.
More details can be found in <a href="kenrockwell.com/tech/image-... report</a> for VR lenses and their effects as well as <a href="dpreview.com/news/0511/0511... article</a> for evaluation on Nikon DX VR 18-200mm.
On the camera, people usually play around with the EV. + EV makes the picture brighter and -EV dimmer.
Photoshop, or most picture viewers, can make the picture brighter. It is the preferred solution because it is generally believed that over exposure tends to burn out the details while slightly under exposed gives more room for subsequent adjustments.
The ideal way will be for you to take the pictures in RAW. D40X can do it and this allows you to do whatever adjustments later on.
If you own D40X , you can take a series of pictures, with overlapping edges, align them in sequence and the photo stitch software will do the rest.
For starters, take a look at <a href="phong.com/tutorials/photost... this tutorial </a> or <a href="photoaxe.com/working-with-p... this one </a>.
If you do not want to invest in Photoshop, there are several others that can stitch pictures, good enough to impress the average users.
You can take a look at <a href="pixtra.com/products/PanoSti... this one </a> for example.
From Wiki ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture ):
There are different categories of macro lenses, depending on the focal length:
* 50–60mm range typically used for product photography and small objects
* 90–105mm range the standard focal range used for insects, flowers, small objects
* 150–200mm range gives more working distance — typically used for insects and other small animals
* a few zooms provide a macro option, but they generally do not allow a 1:1 magnification
Here's the rule of thumb ... the higher the aperture (f stop) the slower the lens. More from this article ( electronics.howstuffworks.c... ) form How Stuff Works will help as well.
Because the D40X has a pop up flash so would i just use that?
but thanks anyway. :)
But for me, the true advantage of any Nikon is the 50 years of legacy lenses which can be used. Nikkor's are the best lenses in the world and being able to use those old 35mm lenses (like the very popular 105mm portait) is by far the best feature.
As for which lens specifically, here's what Rockwell has to say:
You're going to get the 18-55mm with the D40, which is great because it's a great lens. It ought to be all most people ever need. If you want a tele lens, try the new inexpensive and lightweight 55-200mm VR. It's perfectly matched to the D40.
I love my 18-200mm VR, but it costs three or four times as much as the 55-200mm VR. The biggest reason to get the 18-200mm VR instead of the 55-200mm VR is not to have to swap lenses to get from one end of the range to the other, or to have instant manual focus override. Optically they ought to be the same and the 18-200mm VR weighs more than either of the others. Any of these are great choices.
Rockwell goes on to say that the D40X isn't really worth the extra cost over the D40:
The D40x is fantastic, but it's not $200 better than the D40 to me.
I'd suggest the regular D40 to save money and work better with fill-flash in daylight due to the faster maximum shutter speed with flash. Megapixels have nothing to do with how a picture looks.
The chief thing is that you can save money by going with the D40.
Also, should I use a polorized filter?
Thanks in advance .
John
[i[Apertures like f/2.8 and f/4 will not only result in faster shutter speeds, but will isolate your subject from the rest of the objects in the picture due to their shallower depth of field. But you'll have to keep an eye on the shutter speed.
For small kids 1/125s or 1/250s may be fine. For larger, faster kids, and faster athletes in general, 1/250 is often the absolute minimum, and 1/500 is great if you can get it. If you can get 1/1000 you'll freeze them like stone.[/i]