Specifications
- 6.1 megapixels (effective)
- auto and manual focus
- program and manual exposure
- JPEG and RAW file formats
- ISO range 200-1600
- proprietary Lithium-Ion battery. Accepts interchangeable Nikon lenses -- lens not included
Editors' Comments
The Nikon D50 is designed to be an affordable digital SLR for users who want the speed and control of an SLR, with the option of an automatic mode that offers point & shoot simplicity. Designed as a lower-cost alternative to Nikon's popular D70, the D50 is smaller and lighter than its predecessor (thanks to its support of Secure Digital memory cards), and offers a number of improvement on the D70's design, including an improved focusing system and a larger LCD screen. When it is released in June '05, the D50 should sell for approximately $899 with lens included.
Nikon D50 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
Shooting sports means shooting fast. You need a camera with a great zoom, a good "fast" lens, image stabilization, and overall fast response.
Shooting sports is one of the biggest challenges of a camera and photographer. There's a lot of beautiful art photography out there, but every time I see a Sports Illustrated action shot, I am amazed. Of course these photographers use the best, best equipment out there, and it's expensive. But even with the right gear, shooting sports well is all about capturing the "defining moment",and to do that well requires practice and mastery of both the technical and artistic elements. So if this is a serious endeavor, it's a hard one to start with.
For horse shows and fox hunting, there's action as well as some more staged shots at the beginning and end, I would suppose. You have one advantage in that both are predictable, so you can set up a shot. For any sports, you'll want a long lens (telephoto zoom).
I would strongly consider the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Canon Rebel 350D XT</a>, body only, and then find an inexpensive zoom lens (perhaps from Sigma or Tokina) that fits the Canon AE mount. The Rebel is a serious camera, and if you are going to spend $800 then this is a good place to start. Other similar options include the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Nikon D50</a>. Both are SLR cameras that are fast, and will expand as your budget does.
There are some other non-SLR options that make be less expensive. Look for a long lens (8x - 12x) with image stabilization, and a camera people describe as "fast".
I would love to have one lens do it all, but that may not be possible. I also take everyday photos of the children, and the family. I pretty much am the family photographer.
If one lens won't do it, would you please suggest what might be a good everyday lens, one for family shots,holidays, just playing around the house, etc. Then one for the sports shots---hopefully I can use the same lens for outdoor baseball and indoor dance, as well as the horse shows. If not, please advise.
Maybe I should just start with the kit lens (????) and work up. I just don't know what to do. I don't know much about cameras,just mainly point and shoot, using the different modes,(I have been using a Canon G2).
PLEASE ADVISE---THANKS
Mitziewing
blurrery, or is this just a hard job to do any way andI should just stick with my kodak?
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also an excellent camera, as owners attest (click on the link to see our page). It doesn't come with a lens, so you would have to budget that extra expense for a good lens to match the one on your Kodak. I'm guessing you would be happier with the Nikon - quicker time between shots, better flash, etc. - but you'll have to justify the extra $550 for the camera and perhaps a couple hundred at least for the lens for these improvements.
If it were me, I'd stick with the Kodak.
DParker
Good luck-
Mahalo.
I personally checked this link prior to posting it.
Another good camera to check out too is the Canon EOS 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All longtime favorite of the editor of DigitalCamera-HQ. But it is not the most cost effective at around $600. So I would still recommend the Nikon D50.
Ciao!
switched links
Message was edited by: camera?
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) do use the same lenses. In fact, all of Nikon's digital SLR cameras can use the same lenses. They have a PDF format spec sheet to compare these cameras and lenses here ( nikonusa.com/fileuploads/pd... ).
The ability to go to ISO 800 is nice on the Canon A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and it will help in low light settings as well as the faster movement of your kids and dancing friends. I would also reccomend looking at a Digital SLR camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) like the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the [digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Digital Rebel XT / Canon 350D[/url]. These will offer plenty of flexibility and remain in your price range.
Andrew
And for Canon I would recommend The Canon Rebel 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) it is a long time favorite and well loved. Both are at the lower end of the price scale and they are great quality.
HTH - Katy
also are there any dSLRs with Image Stabilization or is this feature not so useful when it comes to dSLRs?
just wondering. thx!
If you like your friend's Canon EOS 20D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), then you might want to try a Canon Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The 20d ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 24.2 oz, the XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 17.1 oz, and the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) weighs 18 oz.
Andrew
I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for a reply? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com"&... so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
You can find the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )'s prices along the right side of the Digital Camera HQ product info page ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You can also look for used cameras on bid sites like EBay ( search.ebay.com/d50_W0QQssP... ).
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great camera for beginning SLR. And at 6 megapixels you can take some very large pictures for printing.
They both have tons of lens options. The big difference really is the price which is considerable. Plus remember the Canon does not come with any lenses for almost $800. If you have an alligence with Nikon I would sick with what you are comfortable with but the Canon really is more technologically advanced.
Since the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a DSLR camera with interchangable lenses, the optical zoom is based on what the focal length of the lens is. There is no digital zoom component with these cameras. They work like traditional SLR cameras with their zoom technique. For more on camera lenses, try reading up on Wikipedia.org ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camer... ). There is an extensive explanation there.
Andrew
Andrew
Now if you really want to go super professional (which is not a real term) and you want to stay with Nikon which is a good choice I would suggest the Nikon D2x ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which will run you areound $3500. 12 megapixels, uncompressed formats, F-mount lenses.
If you want to go the other way and want an entry level Nikon SLR which is actually still very high quality I would suggest the versitile Nikon d%0 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) great camera, excellent value, best entry level SLR on this site.
Check out the reviews for all these cameras on their individual pages, they are all very well received. It basically all comes down to how much you want to spend and which features you find worth that extra price.
Look, both the D80 and the D200 will take great photos, I say save the $700 and buy the D80, and put the extra money towards buying great lenses!
I noticed you haven't marked a response as "Best Answer" yet. Are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
ciao
Do you mean that you want the printed photos to be date stamped? If so I'm pretty sure it has to be set in your photo software, not in your camera. Are you using editing software? If so, explore the Options menus a little and check out the Print Options, you might be able to find something to let you print time and date.
The question is what software allows you to permanently stamped date/time on your photos when you have Costco print them for you the date/time appear on the your photos?
I think either camera would be terrific for your needs. The main factor in the shots you are looking for is going to be the lens and memory card choice. For sports shots, you may want a longer lens to capture things happening at the other end of the field. If he plays indoor sports like hockey or basketball, you are going to need a lens with a lower f/stop number with its aperature. To choose the right memory card, you're going to want the higher speed ones. These will allow you to take pictures in more rapid succession. As for choosing the right camera, I suggest you pick them up at the retailer to see what you are most comfortable with holding and using. Its really up to you at that point.
Andrew
I agree with Andrew here- don't worry too much. You know you want a DSLR and at this point you should just choose the one that feels/ sounds best to you. These two cameras are designed to compete with one another, so one of them will not be way better than the other... they're just different, and as long as you learn how to use it you should feel comfortable with whatever one you buy.
If you want to shoot sports/action, Andrew is correct, the lens is going to make all the difference. Nikon makes an excellent 18-200 with VR for a fairly reasonable price nikonimaging.com/global/pro... It's not extremely fast (f5.6 at 200mm) but for the money you get a lot. Here's a comparable Canon usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... but it lacks image stabilization. Anything better than these and you are looking at very big, very heavy lenses that probably cost twice as much as you'll pay for the camera, but you will get what you pay for.
The memory card is going to make a large difference when shooting in burst mode, but no matter what you buy you will be able to get a high speed card. One thing to note, the D50 uses SD, which has a max card size of 2GB, while the D80 will read the new SDHC cards up to 4GB. The XT and XTi both use CF, which does not encounter these same size limitations. (which is why you see 16GB CF cards but only just now 4 GB SD cards).
D50 for sure is a very nice pick. unfortunately its spilling over my budget.
I hav already used point and shoot, SLR/ Dig SLR are still a big thing for me.
What I am looking for is a digital camera that is at a reasonable price ( cheap i should say), which i can use for half-year, learn the controls, understand and use em, and give it aways to my sis.
to be a lill more precise, i am looking for the following:
>> should hav a decent AUTO functionality, for non techies to work (sis)
>> a 5 - 6 MegPix would be good
>> MANUAL CONTROLS should be available ( along with the auto settings)
>> Focus, Aperture, Shutter, White balance, ISO features would help me explore the basics of photography.
just heard that A540 from Canon has these features. Is a camera in this price range with better quality/ controls available? OR Canon A540 is a better buy ?
Anticipating suggestions!!
Thanks in Advance
I noticed that your question hasn't been responded to yet. Are you still looking for an answer? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on www.DigitalCamera-HQ.com, so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
Between these two I would lean towards the Canon XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is closer comparison-wise to the Canon 300D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) than it is to the Rebel XTI. The Rebel XTI is on a slightly higher level and can be compared to the Nikon D70 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). So rather than choose between the Rebel and the D50 I'd narrow it to the Rebel and the D70 if both are in your price range.
As far as the difference between the Canon and the Nikon models, they can both do the same thing. They have more or less the same amount of settings and both can produce great photos if used correctly. It's mostly a matter of preference.
As to whether IS is important, the answer is ... kinda. IS in consumer cameras/lenses is a new phenomenon. But it caught on because it really works. I have been using non-image stabilized SLR lenses for 25 years, and was able to take clear shots. But now with my IS lens I can take clear shots without a tripod, or in lower light -- IS gives you more latitude. It's kind of one of those things that's just out and out good. And given that you are shooting fast-moving scenes, IS can be invaluable.
The Sony a100 is a new camera, sort of. It is a rework of the Minolta Maxxum 7D. Minolta is no longer in the camera business and sold their SLR line to Sony. It seems like a good camera and is getting good reviews. The internal IS feature is appealing, but I don't know if it really works. And no SLR has gotten reviews like the Canon digital SLR line.
I have a Canon 10D, several generations earlier than the XTi. I cannot say enough good things about it; my only complaints are LCD size, and startup time, both of which are fixed in new versions. I wouldn't be concerned about battery life of the XTi. I can take probably 100 or more shots on a battery, and extras are something like $12 a piece. I have three.
The Nikon is also very well reviewed, in particular the D200, but the D80 is good, too. If this feels better to you than the Canon, that's the right decision. If you're willing to take a risk on the a100, it's probably a good option.
I would get the XTi, but I am wildly biased :-)
I too want a nikon D80 or D200 but it is out of my price range. I was looking around and notice that the D70 is a good choice as well as the canon Xti or XT. The main difference I can see is that the Nikon has a more vibrant color profile (the green are much more vivid). However, unless you compare the same picture taken side by side on the two type of cameras, you probably can't tell the difference.
The reason avid photographers like nikon is because they have superior lenses and that will make a diffence in your photographys. There is a D40x out, it is 10mp and cheaper than the d200/d80.
I also think that most people buy nikon because they retain their value a lot longer and that's why I want to by a nikon. I have a sony DSC717 and although it's 5mp it works great. However, I did notice that sony camera are grainy if it does not have very good lighting and are so in shadowy area.
www.dpreview.com is a great resounce to research camera, they have a side-by-side comparision chart on all types of camera.
I also go on www.flickr.com and look at the pictures taken by the various camera and see what they're capabilities are.
The Rebel XTi is solid, but i'm not sure how it's value will hold up after time and I personall don't like how it feel. The Rebel XT is a favored choice as well (at 8mp). A lot of art students/creatives like that camera.
I bought a D70 on-line and I should get it soon. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Thanks!
The Nikon FG uses AI, AIS, AF, and AFS lenses. The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and the D70 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) use the same cuts as well. So your wishful thinking came true. Happy shooting!
Andrew
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does use a Secure Digital memory card format, so you should be fine.
Andrew
As far as the Nikons, the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great choice and is probably a better choice for a newbie to digital cameras. It's designed as an entry-level camera but still has plenty of flexibility and produces great photos.
If you're considering the D80, you can't just be buying it for the 10MP it has because even the Canon EOS 400D (XTi) has 10MP. Buying a camera in the 'advanced amateur' class means you get better build quality, faster operation, faster autofocusing, faster continuous shooting, better handling, and more features that make the photographer's job just that little bit easier.
If you're new to digital photography, the D50 is excellent, and will satisfy your needs. After all you can spend the savings on a nice lens like the 18-200mm VR :)
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
Your eyes should determine the approximate exposure combination. Make some trial and error exposures with your manual camera with its meter on and try the same exposures with the D50. You will be alright over a period time. If you are putting 1/125 an apperture of 8 to 11 will be ideal during day time. try with different settings...good luck
I hope this helps.
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
Good luck.
However, Nikon is a premiere camera maker and if you get a classic 105mm Nikkor, you'll never want to lose it. So you can't go wrong with it, IMHO.
Not always.. If you read the fine print in a lot of recent 10 megapixel camera releases, you will notice a common statistic.. In most cases, the 10 meg images are not much better (if any) than the 8 meg images as far as resolution goes. They do produce a larger image but not always a better one.
The decision to make is "how big do you want to print out?". I have 5 meg images that I'm printing out to 16x20 with great quality. This is because I have a good camera with a great sensor, and as well, a great piece of glass on the end, and I use a tripod for the shots I know I'm going to print big.
I'm not saying to run out and get a 5 megapixel camera, but what I'm saying is that if price is your issue, cameras like the Nikon D70/D70s are falling in price, and as well the Canon Rebel XT (the 8 megapixel version of the XTi) is also falling.
Don't fall into the megapixel pit because in 2 years, 14 will be the new 10 and you will once again feel the need to upgrade. The quality of the image is determined by sensor, image processing firmware the camera (the image engine) and the glass that send the image to the sensor.
Any of the mentioned cameras (Nikon D50/70/70s and Canon XT/Xti) with a great lens on them will be great cameras that you can use for some time to come until you feel the overwhelming need to start printing out billboards.
If you are going to get good glass, you can expect the cost of that to equal or better the camera price.
For me personally, if I did not have a camera right now, it would be a toss up between the Reble XT and the D70s. (you can still find the D70 and D70s new in many photography stores).
Say you're using a 55mm "prime" lens. Since the CCD is smaller than 35mm, only about 23, the image gets magnified slightly. Multiply the number of millimeters by 1.5, and you'll be very close to how the lens will actually perform. In this case, a 55mm lens will act like an 82mm lens.
This is not "actual" magnification, remember. Your D80 is actually cropping the image down and resizing it. It only looks magnified.
part # TS4GSDHC6 6Mb xfer
Your D50 uses a FOV of 1.5 which means if you put a 20mm lens on there, it's going to end up being 30mm equivalent.
I may get shot but you can buy Nikon glass, but also consider lenses like the Tamron 28-75 Di F2.8 and some of the Sigma lenses. They are cost effective and in most cases produce very sharp images.
The Tamron for example is in the mid 300.00 range. This lens does not have image stabilization (The Nikon term for image stabilization is VR or vibration reduction). If this is important (and it may be shooting in a gymnasium with fluorescent lighting), you will want to stay with Nikon glass, but that pricing is going to not be fairly affordable.
Does The Nikon D50 run on standard AA batteries? What will it cost from the same supplier as the lens?
That said, the 8700 is a very good all-around camera. The main feature it has that the D50 SLR doesn't is the capability of shooting movies. Its standard lens also has a big zoom range. You can get a big zoom on the D50 but you might have to spend more for the separate lens.
Here's a comparison page of the Nikon 8700 with the D70 (the D50 is very similar to the D70) -
vsxl.com/cameras/Nikon_Cool...
Here is an example ( nikonusa.com/template.php?c... ). This will give you a nice range of view and photo style type.
But I also assume you need a quick long lens for very close up shots like the guys on the side line on NBA basketball. So something like this Power Zoom lens would be great ( nikonusa.com/template.php?c... ). 70mm to 300mm is ideal for sports and action photography.
Check them out.
Good luck!
Also check the Nikon website if you are looking to see if a specific lens with fit a specific camera because there are some exceptions.
Good luck.
The Nikon d50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is the camera that I would recommend. It is affordable for the style and it has all the features you need. Plus it is very highly reviewed. Very popular camera, a real work horse.
Good Luck,
Hope I helped.
If you're a novice but are interested in moving into DSLRs, you'll have a learning curve ahead of you. With that said, they are worth the investment if you're dedicated to learning how to use them.
If you like the Nikon line, a cheaper alternative to the D80 is the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's Nikon's 'entry level' DSLR, and it has a full automatic mode so that you can still get good pictures even while you're learning how to use it. Yet it has the majority of the perks of a full DSLR. Definitely worth a look if the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a little too out there.
Honestly, all of the cameras listed above will meet your needs and then some. However, there are some subtle differences between them that might make a difference to you, so let's cover them. First, let's cover the differences between the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and try to pick a contender from those two to face off against the 350D.
The D40 is a pretty subtle upgrade/downgrade case. In many ways, it's been improved over the D50. It's got a higher resolution LCD display. It's smaller overall, but it has a larger viewfinder and shorter shutter lag and viewfinder blackout. It's got a considerably upgraded user interface, as well. It can now shoot continuously in JPEG mode until you run out of memory space, which is pretty fantastic (though why you would ever want to shoot that many in a row is beyond me). Perhaps most important of all, the street price for the kit (body + lens) is about $300 lower than the D50's was at the time it was launched. On the other side of the coin, the D40 also does away with the D50's <a href="asia.cnet.com/i/r/2005/dc/3... LCD</a>, which told you the values of important manual settings. It's been removed mainly to make the camera smaller, but the end result is that you now have to call up those settings on the main LCD display. The D40 also does away with some of the manual controls from the D50, particularly the ability to customize your exposure steps. However, it does also add some new manual control, such as the ability to customize your auto ISO settings.
In short, I think the D40 offers the kind of upgrades that you're looking for (bigger viewfinder and sharper LCD, user-friendly interface, etc) at an acceptable cost. Of the two, it's the clear winner.
Now, choosing between the D40 and the 350D is another story. You'll find thousands of arguments across the internet over the quality difference between this brand and that, particularly in the shallow end of the dSLR pool. Canon loyalists will tell you that Nikon cameras have higher noise despite their larger sensor and fewer megapixels. Nikon loyalists will tell you that Canons have issues with autofocus "hunting" (inability to focus quickly) in low light. There's a good example of such a debate here ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ). Frankly, since the D40 has yet to be reviewed by any of the major sites, it's hard to make a direct comparison between these two, so my final recommendation is that you go to your local big box electronics retailer when production models start hitting the shelves and see how each feels in your hand. Give the D50 a try, too--it certainly can't hurt. Ultimately it's that feel that is going to hook you, and the rest is just comparing statistics.
The D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a brilliant camera, but it's a step up in class from the other three we've discussed and thus also about $900-1000 more expensive. It's not really in competition with the lower-end SLRs that I just compared. It does have a fine viewfinder and LCD screen, and it outclasses these others by a mile and a half in most tech departments, but for the kind of photography it sounds like you'll be doing it might be overkill. The D200 is verging on serious pro equipment.
In truth, the last 20 years have resulted in an incredible advance in lens optics. What used to be the province of only the most expensive makers is now available widely, due to advanced electronic manufacturing techniques and computer designs. I think you'll find the new glass is really something else, and even the less expensive makers, like Sigma ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/s... ) and Tamron ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/t... ) who make lenses designed for Nikon (and others) have outstanding offerings.
I can only say that I think you'll be pleased with your decision, even if the investment is steeper than planned: my first experience with a digital SLR, the Canon 10D, completely reinvigorated my love of photography and allowed me to learn, expand, and become a much better photographer than I ever was before. Digital photography is simply a great thing compared to film.
You're moving to an "F" mount camera lense (50mm for example).
If she likes the D-80 and wants to step up she always has the option to trade up.
Just thinking outloud! Have been a Nikon product guy for many years!
Great cameras...great lenses!
Tim F
Both of those cameras are very good, and if you are concerned about the camera being too advanced, there are training videos available that discuss every feature and function of the camera. You can go to elitevideo.com to check out some of the videos, they're very helpful to me. I learn about features I didn't even know existed! Anyway, just a suggestion.
A. Brown
chris
If your wife is a serious photographer, the camera should be about 1/2 to 1/3 of the initial budget; the first lens or two should be another 1/3 to 1/2 the budget, and assuming there's any left over, memory cards, spare batteries, flash, tripod, camera bag, airplane tickets to exotic locations and so on should cover the rest. Ok, maybe the airfare is separate :-)
If your wife is really interested in photography, an SLR digital is the first stop. There are some cameras that are reasonably good alternatives to SLRs such as the Sony CyberShot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and others. Most of the Advanced Digital Cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will take a perfectly reasonable photograph, if the conditions are right; an SLR such as the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will make it possible to take a really great photo, even in less than ideal conditions. However, SLRs are certainly more of a pain to use, if only because they tend to be larger, and more expensive.
So if your wife is very interested in photography, or already has a film SLR, or is doing this as a hobby, an SLR and a good lens that fits the camera is the way to go. If she is more interested in getting a great shot, actually almost any reasonably good camera these days will do. Except at the lowest price range you'll get good print quality and if you avoid the very small cameras you'll tend to get good optics. SLRs will be quicker and more versatile, but the Advanced or the larger Extended Zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) cameras will have nice features to help make for a good shot.
Look for the Editors' Choice, or if a camera has been around a few month, look for high user ratings. Few cameras are out-and-out bad these days; mostly people are giving bad ratings to cameras that fail to meet their expectations.
So with that said, consider the cameras I have mentioned, and one other, the Panasonic FZ-50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- all good and well rated cameras.
If you have more details about what your wife might want, post a reply and we'll see if we can help narrow things down better.
thanks for the help
chris
Having said that, if she only wants to get one lens to start with that's a reasonable catchall for landscapes and portraits then something in the range of 18 - 75mm (approx) would suffice.
Your husband needs a lens with a wider aperture or a low f/#. DigitalAdvisor has a great lens section ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/ ) to research lenses and lens accessories. For what your husband is looking for, I would recommend the Nikkor 24-85mm f/2.8-4.0 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ). It will work in multiple situations and has a much wider aperture (his current lens is a f/3.5). I hope this helps.
Andrew
Andrew
Most of Nikon's digital SLRs are fully compatible with all Nikon F-mount autofocus lenses. In addition, many non-autofocus lenses can be used with manual metering. There's a comprehensive chart here ( nikonians.org/nikon/slr-len... ) that'll fill you in on exactly which lenses will work with which bodies. The D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), however, has been crippled so that it will not work with non AF-S/AF-I lenses. This page ( forums.dpreview.com/forums/... ) suggests that earlier lenses will work in full manual mode, however. Still, if your Nikon lenses aren't AF-S or AF-I, you might want to look more at the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and older models of Nikon dSLR.
Good luck!
Many thanks
Brian Wilkins
It's no problem, this stuff can get confusing.
With the D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), here are the manual options that you lose in comparison to the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). There aren't many:
1. White balance & exposure bracketing are gone
2. Exposure compensation not as flexible (fixed at 1/3 EV on the D40, 1/3 or 1/2 allowed on the D50)
3. CW avg. size fixed at 8mm (D50 has a choice of sizes)
Here is what those terms mean, translated:
1. On the D50, you can set the camera to bracket, which means take a series of the same photos at slightly different exposures or white balances. This is useful if you're not quite sure what the exposure of the scene should be. This is similar to the technique on a film camera of setting your f stop to the number you think it should be, then hitting one higher and one lower just to make sure you get the shot. The D50 can do this for you automatically adjusting both exposure compensation and white balance. The D40 cannot. Not a big deal; you can do it yourself.
2. Exposure compensation is the interval in which you can step the exposure up or down in either direction. The D50 lets you step in 1/2s or 1/3s, the D40 lets you step in 1/3s. You shouldn't miss the extra option on this; you can always adjust the ISO to compensate if you need to fine-tune.
3. The D50 lets you change the area from which the exposure is metered when you're using center-weighted metering. The D40 has a set size. Not the end of the world, again. This is the only area where the D40 might offer a little setback to the average-to-advanced user, in my opinion.
That is basically what is lost. There are a few features gained on the D40 as opposed to the D50, too. <a href="dpreview.com/articles/nikon... is a fantastic comparison chart of the two (scroll about halfway down the page). If there are terms you don't understand in the chart, go to the top left of the page and check out the link to the Glossary and that should help you too. Or feel free to come back and ask!
flickr.com/photos/44318458@...
The D50 is great love mine if there is something on it it can be set to manual. Get the camera at ritz are some place like that get the lens on ebay. old ones new ones they all work only thing is the older lens that do not have chips require you put the camera in manual mode because the metering does not work with them.
As you know, a SLR can be a huge investment, both in terms of money and of time involved in getting to know the machine. However, in exchange for that investment you'll get pictures that no non-SLR can touch in terms of image quality. SLRs perform better in low light, are far quicker all-around (shot-to-shot, burst mode, autofocus timings), and have a much broader range of abilities (due mostly to interchangeable lenses). You've said here that you don't want to change lenses, but that desire might change in the future and it might be nice to have the option.
I've answered so many questions from parents who want to take pictures of their children and are frustrated by the performance of lower-end digitals, particularly in indoor settings and other poor lighting conditions. Honestly, no non-SLR digital is going to be perfect in low light. Because of the way digital imaging sensors work, and because of the kinds of sensors that are used in consumer digitals, low light will always cause higher image noise. There are things you can do to minimize this, both in-camera and in post-processing of the images, but it's always going to be a factor unless you go the SLR route.
Super-zoom consumer cameras have many great features to recommend them: long, often stabilized zooms, high megapixel counts, advanced manual controls, etc. They're fine cameras and, in good light, they can produce images that will be virtually indistinguishable to most people from those produced by dSLRs. Furthermore, they're hundreds of dollars cheaper, which is a huge factor to most people. However, if I had the money to spend, I'd definitely go for the SLR--it will be a huge source of relief for the kind of frustration you're getting with your point and shoot. The ability to manually focus in low light alone would be enough to sell me.
One final note: you might want to take a look at Nikon's new D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is around the same price as the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), is a little newer, and will serve your purposes just as well. Good luck!
Thank you so much. That is really helpful. I will look into the difference between the D40 and D50. Would it be silly for me to buy the camera without the other lenses? Can I still take good shots with just the body that comes with it and down the road buy additional lenses? I also noticed that Pentax has come out with a relatively inexpensive SLR camera. I may look into that too.
Thanks again,
Anne
The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also an excellent entry-level SLR, yeah. There are some other inexpensive new ones from Sony (the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) and Canon (the Rebel XTi aka 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) as well.
You can most definitely wait on additional lenses. The kit lenses that come with the bodies on most dSLRs are very nice and cover a pretty large range of shooting options (they're usually 18-55mm--wide-angle to mild telephoto). I'd suggest playing around with the kit lens for a bit before trying to figure out what additional lenses you need, if any. Hope this helps.
I don't think you should have any reservations selecting the FZ50 from among its peers. It is by far the most powerful camera in its class. I myself have used it, Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and Canon's S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which is by all accounts extremely similar to the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), if not a little superior on the image front). The FZ50 was a pleasure to use, and felt the most solid and SLR-like in my hands. I didn't notice any problems with noise that detracted significantly from its use, and definitely not any greater noise than I saw on the other models I mentioned.
That said, under your $600 limit there are several digital SLRs (with kit lens) that you might want to consider. The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had for $578 (with lens) at Amazon. The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) can be had for a similar price (cheaper with a shorter range lens). The Canon Rebel XT (350D) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also in this range. Without a lens, each of these cameras is under $500 (some close to $400) and you can probably find decent used lenses on eBay and the like. Of course, with a memory card and other accessories (not to mention inevitable extra lenses) you'll end up over $600 eventually, but it's something worth considering. Finally, the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (same as the K100D, minus built-in image stabilization) is an incredible $432 after a $50 rebate at Amazon, with lens.
All of that said... if you want to stay out of the SLR realm, the FZ50 is a fantastic choice.
Good luck!
If you're asking about the pixels' relationship with image quality, that depends on several things. First of all, dSLRs will always provide better image quality than non SLRs because their imaging sensors are much, much larger. A typical 6MP sensor in a non-SLR, for example, is about 5.76 x 4.29mm. Meanwhile, the 6MP sensor on the K100D is 23.5 x 15.7mm (basically 4x as large). What this means is that each pixel receptor is given more room and therefore more light, which means lower image noise and the ability to capture higher quality images at high ISO sensitivities.
Furthermore, higher megapixel numbers doesn't necessarily imply better image quality. Sometimes, manufacturers will cram more pixels onto the same size sensor (for example, putting 8 million pixels onto a sensor the same size as the non-SLR 6MP sensor above). This does the opposite of what the SLRs' larger sensors do, increasing noise at higher ISO sensitivities and generally lowering image quality. The main advantage of higher resolution in consumer digitals is the ability to make larger prints.
In short, I wouldn't worry about it too much, so long as the image quality is good.
13 seconds sounds like a ridiculous exaggeration by any standard, and $130 for any 2gb SD card is a huge ripoff. I'd check sites like newegg.com or even amazon.com for much more reasonable deals. Take a look at this one ( newegg.com/Product/Custrati... ), for example.
It sounds to me like the salesperson is trying to scam you. I'd avoid whichever store that was entirely and do your shopping from reputable internet merchants. I've personally used both newegg and amazon with great results.
Good luck!
For your budget, I would really have to recommend the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All the cameras will be ok, but you'll have to spend a little more on a lens to work in the gym without a flash. You'll want something at f/2.8 or faster, and that can run you another $1000 easily depending on what brand you get. The Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) will run over $1200, but you can get a little less quality from a non-name brand lens like the Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 lens for Nikon ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) for around $350. The lens is what will make your shots better indoors. Good luck.
If you are ok with a lower quality lens, I would go for the Canon XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) with a Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 lens for Canon ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/s... ).
Andrew
Personally, I would stick to the name brand lenses as well. If you want to adjust the zoom at all, the Nikon 85mm f/1.8D ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/n... ) will not accomodate that. The superfast f/1.8 capability will be great in the gym though. If you want to go with the 24-85mm lens, that might be a better option for getting close ups. I would go for the zoom lens personally.
Andrew
Anytime. Good luck with your camera hunt. Please come back if you have any more questions. Don't forget to mark the best answer if you feel we've answered what you need.
Andrew
I have the chance to buy a D70 used. Although the initial question was WRT the D50 and D80, is it worth looking at? and at what price point?
If you are looking to be versatile I would suggest getting the D50 and spending the difference on lenses so you have a options on on safari. I know from experience that you are going to want a Long Prime Lens on safari and for surfing. A nice Zoom (60mm~200mm) lens would be great and incredably versatile too, and even a macro lens for real detailed shoots. As long as you are not planning on printing these stills much bigger than 8x10 you will not see much of a quality difference. And with a few lens you will have the options to get the exact photo you want.
Good luck.
Thanks very much for your answer.
Would you recommend the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor for either camera (D50 or D80) as the best all-around use lense?
These are both very good entry-level dSLRs. Most people would probably tell you to go with the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), as Nikon is a more respected brand for SLRs and they have a much wider array of lenses (stretching back decades) available. The E-500 is also a fine camera, however, and it offers many features not commonly available on lower-end models. It does have some down sides (a very small viewfinder, USB1.1 connection, etc), but overall it's some very strong competition for the D50. My best recommendation is to try to get your hands on display models for both cameras and see how they feel to you. The E-500 is extremely lightweight, but not extremely small, which many users find to be a great feature. The D50, however, feels like a pro camera--very solid build quality and a good heft in the hand.
Hope this helps a bit!
Both batteries will work in your camera. The ENEL3a is a 1500mAh battery, while the ENEL3 is "only" a 1400mAh cell. This means that the 3a will have a slightly longer charge life.
You should also be aware that Nikon has issued a recall on the ENEL3 battery. You can get information on this recall here ( nikonusa.com/email_images/n... ).
Good luck!
Andrew
1. Turn your D50 on.
2. Push the MENU button at the back of the camera.
3. Select the folder marked by a wrench and press the right arrow on the circular button to the right of the LCD.
4. Using the UP or Down arrows on the circular button, schroll to File No. Seq. which is between FOLDERS and MIRROR LOCK-UP.
5. Press the right arrow on the circular button.
6. By scrolling up or down, select ON
7. Press the right arrow on the circular button again.
8. Exit the MENU.
This should give you continuous photo file numbers until you reset your D50 or until it reaches its numerical limit. - Regards, Herb
Yes I do have an idea. I believe that you are referencing the Simple Menu when you need the Detailed Menu.
To get the Detailed Menu, do this:
* Turn your D50 on.
* Press your Menu button.
* In the left column of your screen go to the Wrench.
* Press the right edge of the circle button to enter.
* In the selection, go to CSM/SetUp Menu.
* Press the right edge of the circle button.
* Select Detailed and press right edge of circle button.
* Find File No. Seq and press right of circle button.
* Select ON and press right edge of circle button.
* Press MENU twice to exit menu.
Good Luck!
Herb
In my D50 the File Number Sequence is turned on, how do I read gthe number?
To try several settings in the menu means that you are manually taking some control over the camera. If so then you also need to take some manual control over the shooting mode. It means that if your shooting mode is set to "Auto" then you are unable to use most of the manual menu settings. Just turn the dial (on top of the left side of the camera) to "A" or "S" half-manual mode for example. Then you should be able to change more settings in the menu. But if you leave the dial to "Auto" mode then it means that you want the camera processor takes full control and that is why it would not let you to interfere the picture taking process.
Most digital SLRs can use screw-mount (M42) lenses with an adapter ring. You can get these adapters (they're different for each camera brand) on eBay or from more respectable stores like Adorama and B&H Photo. Here ( amazon.com/Brand-Screw-Moun... )'s an example.
Hope this helps!
If your lens is a 42mm screw-mount (aka M42), you can fit it to pretty much any dSLR with a M42 adapter. These can be found on eBay and at the usual camera shops (B&H and Adorama, etc). I believe, though, that Miranda used a unique 44mm (M44) mount for most of their lenses, and since they produced such a small minority of cameras, no one has bothered to create a 44mm adapter for digital SLRs. I think it's probably pretty likely that you'll be unable to use your lens.
Sorry!
This is an Sinlge Reflex Lens camera though and is a tiny bit more difficuly than a point and shoot. The flexibility of the camera usage is great though. Borrow one froma friend and use for a couple of hours, I think you will be sold, if the price does not run you off.
It is always nice to have a camera that may have functions you feel you will never use, because it is exactly like having hidden treasures. You don't need to know all its functions and controls to get great pics, and that is the best part.
Point blank, get it, you will love it.
But if you want this as a hobby, the dCabral is right. Get something that'll grow with you as your experience in photography expands. And nothing does that like a good photo class.
It just turned blurry and purple in the middle of shooting pictures. Checked the batteries. Any suggestions?
This is a known issue with some models of Canon cameras. What has happened is that your camera's imaging sensor (CCD) has become partially or fully detached from its wiring. Luckily, Canon has acknowledged the fault and is offering to repair any and all affected units for free (including free shipping both ways), whether they're under warranty or not. You can read the applicable service notice ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and then request a repair online ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Good luck!
Beyond the consumer range, well, you're obviously getting into dSLR territory (or, as your son put it, "serious" cameras). When you jump to dSLRs you not only hike the price way up for the body, you're also looking at serious money for lenses. A very long zoom lens of any kind of quality is going to run you in the hundreds of dollars. Of course, you'll be able to take incredible photos, but you'll probably be well over $1000 total once you've bought the camera, lenses, and accessories.
There's not really an easy answer here, unfortunately.
You are overlooking DIGITAL zoom (or cropping)!! If Priscilla is willing to settle for 4x6 prints, then look what she can do with a 12x optical zoom, coupled with a 6 to 7 megapixel sensor*: Use 3x digital zoom (or crop in a photo editor on a PC, same thing). That is the exact equivalent of 6/3 = 2 megapixels or 7/3 = 2.33 megapixels. So now your 12x camera is the equivalent of 36x power! And of course the 2 megapixels size is plenty good enough for 4x6 prints.
* Canon S3IS or Sony H5.
Richio
A Digital Rebel wouldn't be too big of a jump, no. Most digital SLRs have very, very good automatic modes that are just as easy to use as any smaller digital's auto mode. Either the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice.
If you want to save a few dollars and you don't mind straying from the Canon brand, there are several less expensive dSLRs out there--you might consider the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These can be had for around $500 w/a kit lens--usually not that great for zoom purposes, so you'd probably have to buy a long zoom lens. I don't know all that much about lenses, but I do know that, as I said above, a very long zoom lens is going to mean big big $$$.
Hope this helps. :)
Looks like I've got a new boat anchor. You don't think I have a sour taste in my mouth?
Australians who live outside of Sydney, beware.
HTH2
That's pretty backwards-thinking of them. Seems like if there's a service advisory out for a large chunk of the world (I think South and Southeast Asia are covered as well), the entire planet ought to get recall service, doesn't it? If you feel like a fight, I'd suggest harassing them and pointing out that this very same problem gets very different results in another hemisphere. See if you can guilt them into some kind of compromise.
Sorry for your troubles.
I sent my camera in per their instructions, received an e-mail a few days later(1/9/08) confirming that they would repair it a few more days later (1/16/08)I received another e-mail confirming that it had been repaired and shipped. Today (1/17/08) I got it and to my very pleasant surprise the box contained a new S5 IS!!! I will be sending them a very nice THANK YOU for it after I post this.
PS e-mail accepting repair 1/9/08
e-mail stating it shipped on 1/15/08, 1/16/08
received 1/17/08
Found another link imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1...
I have the same problem with my S1 IS and I called the customer service centre. They asked me to turn on the camera and asked me to press the menu button. Asked me if it was blurry while the menu was on. On my camera the image is blurried only in the picture shooting mode. I can get the photos displayed on the screen perfectly. Was this the case with your camera too?
I remember a friend of mine also getting a new camera when he had a similar problem. I hope I too get a new camera
Thank you VERY much for posting the problem and the solution on this site. I just experienced this problem with my camera this week, and found your wonderful information on the web today. Thank you! I'll be contacting Canon tomorrow.
Again, I very much appreciate you making the time to post the issue and the solution on the web so many other people can benefit. That was very nice of both of you, and I really appreciate it.
Best regards,
Mark
I reside in India and I had the same issue with the Canon S1 IS - purple screen and unable to shoot. I took it to the nearest authorized service center and they have offered to replace my camera with a brand new S5 IS !!! The waiting time is somewhere around 4-6 weeks. But the service center guys want their pound of flesh too (since it is a franchise). They just brought up some arcane problem and said that it had to be fixed before being presented for replacement. Costs around $50 equivalent. But, what the heck, don't mind it as long as I get the spanking new 8MP S5 :-)
Is it a 100% guarantee that everyone who has this problem gets a new camera?
I guess last spring they didn't have the sensors to fix the problem and that's why they were sending out new S5s.. darn my luck.. still, it's great that they step up and fix it, way out of warranty (mine's 4 years old).
I am having the same problem as the purple screen and being unable to shoot with my S1-IS. I am wondering if the free repair and shipping is still available (Ben's posting: Jan 16, 2007) because whenever I try to request a repair, it gives me a cost of around $149. Mine is almost 4.5 years old and was performing as good as new before this happened.
ya Shelly i got the same 149$ Estimate on repair quote i hope i dont have to pay 150$ to fix a recall product
There are many cameras these days that match or exceed the specs of the HP 945. The Fuji S5200 you've selected above is one of them. Others include the Canon S3 IS, the Sony H5, the Panasonic FZ50, and the Kodak P712.
The Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 6MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It features a nice flip-out & swivel LCD screen, a great macro mode (can focus on things actually touching the lens), and an absolutely beautiful video mode, along with signature smooth and accurate Canon picture quality. It uses AA batteries, which means you can use rechargeable AA NiMHs.
The Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 7MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. Its LCD is fixed, but also huge and of great resolution (3" at 230,000px). Like the Canon, it uses AA batteries (though only 2, where the Canon uses 4). It uses Sony's proprietary memory stick, which might be a turnoff to some.
The Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 10MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It's the only one of these cameras to use a 1/1.8" CCD sensor, though it needs the extra space for all those pixels (the others use a 1/2.5" sensor). It has the feel that's closest to a SLR, and size and weight to match, about 8oz heavier than the next closest. Like most Panasonics, it has issues with excessive image noise in low light, but in good conditions it can produce amazing images. It uses a proprietary lithium ion battery pack.
The Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is nearly identical in its specs to the Sony H5. Users seem to love it, and it's the smallest and lightest of the cameras here. It has a very ergonomic design, and trademark Kodak ease of use. Like all of the cameras here, it's capable of producing very, very good pictures. Like the Panasonic, this camera uses a proprietary battery pack.
You can get a full rundown of these cameras' specs side by side here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ).
There's really no clear recommendation between these cameras. I personally love my Canon S2 IS and would recommend the S3 IS based on that alone, but the truth is that all four of these models are very comparable. I'd recommend going to your local mega-electronics store and trying as many of these as possible in your hands.
Good luck!
I did as you suggested and visited one of our mega-stores prior to posting my question...I intend on returning with your specific suggestions and trying both the Panasonic and Kodak. I tried the other two on my first visit. One thing I noticed right off was the smaller physical size than my HP. I am a man with man hands and both the Cannon and Sony you mention above felt like little toy cameras. Navigating between all the dinky little buttons and controls felt a bit awkward, a condition I suppose I could eventually learn to live with.
Can you shed any light on the Pentax K100D? I haven't found one yet to try it on for size-n-feel but all the other published characteristics seem to fit what I'm looking for.
Thanks again for you help.
The K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a very good camera--probably the best value-oriented entry-level SLR out these days (along with the K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is exactly the same minus the in-camera image stabilization). Being an SLR, you'll be able to buy additional lenses for it, as well as external flashes and other accessories that (with a few exceptions) you couldn't use with the above cameras. The down side is, of course, price. The camera itself is more expensive than the cameras above, and then you factor in the price of additional lenses (the kit lens is good, but you'll eventually want to upgrade) and it's much, much more expensive.
Any dSLR will outclass any non-SLR digital in terms of image quality--it's just a question of how much you want to spend to get that quality.
(You might also want to check out the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which should be in a similar price range with the K100D.)
Hope this helps.
These sorts of repairs tend to vary from case to case, so you'd do best to contact Nikon Canada. Here is the contact info for their main Canadian office:
Main/Mississauga Office
Nikon Canada Inc.
1366 Aerowood Drive
Mississauga, ON L4W 1C1
Toll Free: 1-877-534-9910 (Repair Service and Product Support)
Fax: 905-238-3487
According to their site, you should have a 2yr limited warranty on your D50. I don't know if the warranty will cover a cracked LCD, since the "limited" part of the warranty generally implies that problems caused by physical mishandling aren't covered. Still, they can tell you what it'll cost and how long it'll take.
Good luck!
If you're asking about setting your camera to some sort of widescreen mode before taking the picture, some cameras offer that. You'd have to read your user's manual to see if your does.
I see that your camera (D50) offers a landscape mode. I'm unfamiliar with your camera, so don't know if that would do what you're looking for. Possibly read this review to see if it helps?
dpreview.com/reviews/nikond50/
The short answer is that most F-mount Nikon lenses will work just fine on all Nikon dSLRs, though they will need to be used in full manual mode. There's a very comprehensive lens compatibility chart available here ( nikonians.org/nikon/slr-len... ) that can probably help you out better than I can.
Good luck!
Given this, I would buy the EOS400D Rebel XTi for at least two reasons: 1.) It's cheaper; and 2.) It's better.
Please read this website if you'd like to know more. And don't waste your money buying the kit with basic lens....save $100 and buy a real nice lens. You'll thank yourself later.
dpreview.com/reviews/canone...
"1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.
2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.
3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.
4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.
5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.
6. Go with a shallow depth of field.
7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.
8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.
9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings."
Hope this helps.
Another item often overlooked is camera steadiness. IF you are using a lot of zoom, you may need a tripod.
Generally, dSLR's maintain the settings for each shooting mode. If you change the settings for one, it won't necessarily change it for the other. I've had to do this with my dSLR for certain settings.
Andrew
That does sound a little odd. I don't think it has anything to do with your custom settings. Your camera's internal clock doesn't reset each time you power it off does it? If so, it may be a dying internal battery (like on a computer).
Andrew
Hi Andrew; thanks for the thought; it definetly wouldn't hurt to replace the battery since I've got the camera 2yrs + already; the date & time stamp are ok. I'm going to check the auto focus settings in all shooting modes and see if they all change or what. Pete
Keep us updated. I am curious to see how this works out for you.
Andrew
One thing you may also want to try is clean the contacts between the lens and the battery with a pencil eraser. It may be that they're dirty and causing the camera to lock up.
Another tip is to go to Nikon's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them. While you're there, you check under the same service and support links to find the closest authorized service center.
Good luck.
Actually the blinking light is designed to tell the Photographer the picture is over exposed in the high light area.
This alerts the photographer to retake the picture with reduced EV.
Normally this is set to off by default, and set to on by the Photographer using the ' Up Button ', if he finds a use for it. Under view picture mode, it is possible to hit the 'Up Button' and set it on accidentally.
It can be set to off by pressing the ' Up Button ' twice.
Randy
Good luck.
Another tip is to go to Nikon's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them. This should put it back to the condition it was in when you first got it.
mode is displayed in the control panel pg 21 manual
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
If the answer doesn't suffice, please reply back to us and we'll find another.
That is about all you do to take a picture with D50.
Step 2 will be to take pictures using the logos on the Mode Dial.
Each logo is actually self explanatory. Flower means close up, hill means landscape, lady means portrait and so on.
Set the mode dial to flower lets you take close up pictures, say objects within arms length or nearer.
Set the mode dial to " hill " logo lets you take landscape pictures, including gardens and houses.
Step 3 will be to take control of the camera by setting the Mode Dial to A, S, P or M.
" S " means shutter priority. Setting the mode dial to " S " allows you to change the speed of the shutter and capture moving objects, like kids that do not stay still or people moving and talking. This camera can capture speeding objects up to 1/4000 of a second, but you will not need it most of the time.
" A " setting allows you to control the depth of field. Wider aperture means only the object will stay sharp, the rest will be blur. Small aperture means everything in focus will be sharp, remembering that large number like F16 mean smaller aperture and small number like F3.5 means wide aperture.
Step 4 will be to understand what else the camera can do for you. This you do by downloading the manual at <a href="nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/ds... this site </a>
Should i buy it?? (its is not used camera.)
PLEASE ANSWER IT WITH DETAIL
if not nikon d50, should i get Canon Digital Rebel XSi (450d) or nikon d60??
No need to lose the moment because you relied on one card one when several can solve that problem. At the very least, you want to get more than one of whatever size you settle on.
One last thing. Cards have different speeds. The faster a card is, the quicker it'll save the photo and cycle to be ready for another shot. In the end, your camera is only going to be as fast as it's slowest link in the chain. So return that card and use the extra coin to get a faster card your camera can use.
Did you know that Windows XP tools has a "resize picture" option available with a "right-click" of the mouse? You can resize 100 pics at a time, although, I think the smallest pic size if 640x480, which might be ok for your use?
How do I do this?
Ideally, you want to shoot with the main light source coming over your shoulder and lighting your subject. Not coming from behind them and into the camera. But if you can't help that, just use the manual flash setting. Turn on the flash and use it as a fill flash. Then it'll lighten your subject in spite of the backlight. You can also play with any scene/preset options which can help as well as any exposure compensation settings.