Hey! You should know that this product has been discontinued. Here are our current recommended cameras in the Consumer dSLR category.
Nikon D80 (Lens Included)
Editor's Review
The D80 is a great camera, but too far past its prime for you to bother buying. Go with a newer entry-level model, like the D5000. Here's what we had to say about the D80 when it was released in August 2006:
The Nikon D80 is an affordable 'enthusiast' level dSLR, offering the same stunning quality that the beloved D70 had, with some important and impressive improvements. The D80 upgrades virtually every aspect of the previous D70 models, with the exception of a shutter speed that is half as fast as its predecessor. Other than that, with a 10 megapixel sensor and the same high-capacity battery seen on the D200, this dSLR is a welcome addition to Nikon's already superb line.
This Nikon D80 Camera Kit includes a 18-135mm AF-S DX Zoom-Mikkor Lens. For the "body only" model, click here.
Specifications
- 10.2 megapixel CCD
- Nikon F Lens Mount
- JPEG, NEF (RAW) file formats
- Auto and manual focus and exposure
- ISO 100-3200
- 2.5-inch LCD, optical viewfinder
- Secure Digital media storage
- Part Number: 9405
- UPC: 018208094059
- Release Date: Aug 14, 2006
Shop for D80 Accessories
Nikon D80 (Lens Included) Comments & Questions (write your own!)
Thanks!
Thanks for any help. I have tried everything I can think of.
Go with the D80.
You probably will have less problem with the manual focus lens.
D60 might be a better match.
For focusing. traditional Nikon body has a built in motor and focusing is done through a pin that fits into a hole in the lens.
Take a look at the lens and see if the hole is there. That's the best way to confirm whether it will work with D80.
F65 takes on AF-S lens. see <a href="bythom.com/n65.htm"> Thom Hogan's report </a> If your Sigma works on F65, it is possible that it has a built in motor which D80 is not able to operate.
Problem is only you can tell because you might have bought a Sigma lens without a built in motor. So check for the hole in the lens and see if it is there.
But to just wait for the next big thing? You'll be waiting forever.
Thanks again, advice well taken.
Lyle
Lyle
Same kinda thing, though not as vast.
Lyle
Lyle
Here's some more info:
botzilla.com/photo/strobeVo...
The Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) uses a Nikon F mount type lens. If your older lens is compatible with this mount, then you can use it. If not, some lenses work without auto focus or can be used with an adapter on the newer cameras. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I am looking at buying this :
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... to know the items included with the product & the actual price .
Thanks,
guru
there are two kits available for the D80. Here's what you'll find in each:
* The Nikon D80 camera body
* F3.5 - 5.6, 18 - 135 mm Nikon DX zoom lens [note this is for the lens kit only]
* EN-EL3e lithium-ion rechargeable battery
* Battery charger
* Body cap
* Eyepiece cap
* LCD protective cover
* Shoulder strap
* USB cable
* Video cable
* CD-ROMs featuring Nikon PictureProject
* 149 page camera manual (printed)
To turn off your histogram in review mode, you can press the multi-selector up or down to rotate the display or rotate the sub-command dial to cycle through the display types. This is also referenced in your user manual ( nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/no... ) on page 62. I hope this helps.
Andrew
Going to manual puts you in complete control. You could also rely on either aperture priority or shutter priority which would enable the camera to automatically choose one while you adjust the other.
Can you tell me the differences in these two camera and help me choose the best one.
thanks
Both cameras have 10.2 MP resolution, the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.shopping.c... ) has a slighty faster frames per second rate, and will have more exposure control options with temperature control. It will also let you manually adjust the flash settings. Those are not huge differences, but they are differences. I think the bigger question is how much you want to spend. I have a friend that owns the D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and she loves it. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
The major difference I can point out is that "the D40X doesn't have an built-in focus drive motor which means it can auto focus only with lenses which have their own drive motor (AF-S and AF-I lenses). The lack of a drive motor can be seen by the missing mechanical focus drive pin on the lens mount."
The D80 has the motor, so it can focus lenses that do not have the motor.
As Andrew Stated, They both have the same 10.2 MP resolution.
I believe that the D40X is more of a consumer camera, and the D80 is a professional/semi professional camera. The D80 will give you more opportunity to adjust the pictures in the camera, but you will be paying more for it.
Another tip is to go to Nikon's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
How large is your flash memory card?
Another thing could be the settings you use. I know that on certain auto settings on my camera I can't shoot at RAW and as such, it's greyed out. Also, check and see if you've accidentally engadged the write protect switch on your card. This could also affect it.
I'd also try reformatting the card.
There is a firmware update ( support.nikontech.com/cgi-b... ), BTW.
If something is grey market, it means that - although you may have gotten a great deal on it - it doesn't come with a warranty that will be honored here in this country. Which means if something goes wrong with the camera, you'll either have to send it to China to repair or pay to have it fixed yourself.
Be warned.
Sticking with a good reputable company, like Amazon or Circuit city is your best bet, even if you end up paying another hundred or so, IMHO. You'll get what you pay for.
Did we get your problem solved? If not, let us know so we can try again. If so, you would want to award the points for the best answer. Thanks, Larry.
automatically controls the flash output level to give the correct exposure.
Manually, Press the MODE button to set the flash mode.
• Display TTL BL on the the LCD panel.
2 Confirm that the main subject is within the flash shooting distance range.
Note, that every time you press the MODE button, the available flash mode icon changes. Refer to “Icons on the LCD panel” (p. 13 of the manual).
Nikon has a Speedlight Techniques Guide ( nikonusa.com/pdf/SB800_tech... ) you can download which may be of help.
But these days, absent the 1A, you don't really need a filter. Everything a filter does can be fixed with something like Photoshop. And better because you don't change the original image permanently like a filter does.
Because of the high power requirements of a flash, I recommend getting batteries with a higher mAh - like around 2500mAha. Also, you can try this ( batteryspace.com/index.asp?... ).
Thank you in advance .
G
photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... someone states in that discussion: "The D80 meter favors shadow areas more than highlights. This is the main difference between the D200, which favors highlights. Many people call this a "defect" but it is by design."
Not really answering your question, but an interesting discussion regarding it.
With that said, at this level, the quality of the lenses and accessories available is important. And although it's largely a matter of preference, I prefer Nikon lenses and so I'd go with the D80 here. In fact, I'd kill to own a D80. =)
I'm assuming that although you said 'everyday user,' you're pretty proficient with cameras to be considering DSLRs. I would strongly suggest going to a camera shop if possible and handling both of these. At DSLR level a big part of the purchase is just plain 'which one feels better to you.' And there will be people with strong opinions on either side.
The bottom line is, that there are many factors when it comes to film. Film speed (ISO), being one of them. Aperture settings. Lighting conditions.
I honestly don't think any digital development will be better than film. But the technology has developed to the point where the arguement is really moot. Digital allows you to do much more and it's alot easier more affordable than developing and printing film - having to pay for bad pictures, etc.
In the end, film is an end use technology now. The future is digital. But beware, according to recent surveys, only 20% of digital camera users actually PRINT their pictures!
I consider myself a very serious amateur. I don't shoot sporting events- more wildlife. Is it worth the extra bucks for the D200? I read the image quality is the same between the two??? I've also never dropped a camera an don't plan on shooting in the the rain. Will the D80 suit me?
What is the major advantage of the D200 over the 80 in my situation? The weight of the D200 turns me off a little too.
Are these 10 mp cameras better quality than 35mm film?? But to "access" that ability, don't you have to use a digital lens?? So if I'm using my old lenses for my film cameras, is the image quality going to be the same??? Thanks!
I wanted to link you to this question:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... a discussion of the D80 that just came up that might explain why you may choose the D200. Go to the link provided in the answer to that question and read the discussion there; I think you'll find it interesting as an argument against the D80 (although it is also a matter of preference).
In terms of quality, I wouldn't say that a 10mp digital is going to be better or worse than film. The properties of the photo are really just so different. Plus, when talking about photo quality, so much of it depends on the processing of the photo post-shot that it's hard to say specifically which one records a better image. As a film fan myself, I consider this a wash. In technical terms there's probably an answer about which one records more detail, but to me it's a matter of apples and oranges really.
In terms of using old lenses on digital SLRs, though, you MAY run into a few minor issues now and then that might affect your photo quality, and this is because the properties of how the digital sensor records light are different than how film works. I suppose I can imagine a few issues cropping up particularly with wide angle lenses, where the direction of the light is so important. But even that is really arguable.
Less of a problem than image quality, just think about compatibility with old lenses on a digital cam. Sometimes you can't use Auto Focus and other features. But the fact of being able to use old lenses on DSLRs at all is, to me, a major argument for buying a DSLR if you've got a ton of great glass sitting around!
<a href="photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... is an interesting discussion about a 'myth' re: using old lenses on digicams.
have a look at these photos
flickr.com/photos/jadegordo... were taken with a panasonic lumix lz7
it is not a digital slr but it has a very good optical stabilization system
I personally prefer the user friendliness of the d80 interface over the Xti, although quality of pictures are comparable. i think nikon offers more affordable lenses with the VR (i.e. 55-200 VR for 249US$, 24-120VR for about 400US$ or the all in one 18-200VR for about 700US$). Your best bet is to go to your local camera store and try the feel of each camera in your hands, and check if your budget can account for the available lenses in comparison to what you want to be shooting.
You might want to have a look at this article ( photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fe... ). It's a fairly in-depth discussion of that lens/camera combo (mostly positive, too!).
Good luck!
Nikon D50 or D80 will easily do the job. You will also need two lenses. Example: Sigma 17-70mm 2.8 Macro for Nikon (around $350) and Sigma 10-20mm for Nikon (around $500). The first lens will let you to take pictures of the buildings from outside, also larger rooms inside and macros. The second one allows you to take very wide angle shots inside small rooms and also photograph whole buildings outside from small distance.
In addition you will need software that eliminates all the problems that are caused by wide angle lenses. Example: Image Align Pro (around $100).
I would take a look at the <A HREF="dpreview.com/reviews/compar... Lumix DMC-LX1 & LX2</A>. In the side-by-side comparison you can see the difference between the two. The LX2 costs a bit more, but you get 10MP as opposed to 8MP and a larger LCD for composing and reviewing shots.
I'm suggesting these because they both have 28mm wide angle lens, which is what you need for real estate to be able to fit whole rooms into the picture. They both also have macro settings so you can get those close ups of maps and floorplans. For outdoor shots they both have a 4x optical zoom to give versatility.
The same link has a link to customer reviews so you can see what others think of it.
Personally I don't see the point of investing thousands in a DSLR if the cameras is purely going to be used for real estate or work purposes.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Good Luck
This will give an effective 27 - 202.5 mm equiv. FOV on a DX format digital SLR.
If you like to have more zoom power, the AF-S Zoom-Nikkor ED 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF DX VR will be a better one.
Nikon 18-200mm is hailed as the do-it-all lens. The only setback is the price, US$750.
Lastly, for something in between, Nikon 55-200mm at US$ 279 will probably fit most pocket, while giving the zoom power necessary to get closer to the object, it also provide a reasonable wide angle to include a lot of things in a picture.
If you bought your D80 with the 18-135mm, then you should be very happy with that. The auto focus motor is extremely quick and very quiet, also its a very nice balance between wide to telephoto. You should have no problems with wide interior shots and still get some nice close ups. At the full extended zoom of 135mm(202.5mm) its just long enough zoom ratio to maintain razor sharp images with out sacrificing to much depth of Field. Its the best zoom lens sold with a DSLR within $1200.
If you have an 18mm-200mm that would be even better, but if you don't have either lenses and only have a zoom lens with not much more than 100mm, don't sweat it. Keep in mind that part of the beauty of the 10 MP with the D80 is that you can crop your images and enlarge a portion of the frame with still maintaining a great image quality, especially with raw image files, there is tons of packed data information. If you used only around 50% of the frame by cropping your image closer to give you a simulation of a longer zoom ratio, you would still have no problem making nice clear wall prints at around 24"x36" or better. The D80 renders the pixels like continuous tone film, so you have mega back up pixels to work with.
I hope this info has been helpful in your decision of lenses.
Have a great time!
Piero Foto
Advisors have noticed you have not selected an answer yet, if you are back from your vacation we hope you had a great time. Digital advisors on this site like my self take our own personal time and efforts on a volunteer basis to answer questions and help photographers like yourself with advice. If you still need any further advice then just ask in the reply box below and we will be more than happy to respond or if you can return the kindness and select best answer to close the question that would great.
Thank you in advance.
Also what would be the best wide angle lens for the D80?
Both the 18-135mm and the 18-200mm lenses are excellent, I would say that the D80 and the D200 have the best digital lenses offered in box kits. Both lenses have an extremely quick and a very quiet auto focus motor, they also have a great balance between wide to telephoto.
Here are a few options:
1) If money is not an issue, then get the 18-200mm
2) For most photo shooting situations the 18-135mm(27-200mm 35mm equivalent) is generally all that photographers really need.
At full extended zoom its just long enough zoom ratio to maintain razor sharp images with out sacrificing to much depth of field. Its also a long enough zoom to get lens compression for portraits or general sports coverage and just wide enough for general interior shots with very minmal distortion. So save yourself the money.
3) Now at this point with the money you have just saved if you buy the 18-135mm, you can determine what specific needs you require for your second lens. If you do any type of interior photography where a wider lens than 18mm is required, then get an inexpensive short wide angle Nikkor zoom lens. A lens wider than 18mm, but not necessarily longer than 35mm-50mm, OR the other option is if you need a longer zoom lens then 135mm for wildlife, sports, and etc, then your second lens should be at least 300mm on the long side, but not necessarily much shorter than 80mm on the bottom end, so that you can keep the cost down.
I bought a nikkor 80-300mm digital lens recently for $125 dollars, I got it cheap because it was classified as imported, meaning that it was imported by a third party with out a warranty. Of all the lenses I have bought over the past 30 years, I have never had a lens that malfunctioned, so I took the chance and lens works great. Now I have an 18-135mm(27-200mm 35mm equivalent) and a 80-300m(120-450mm 35mm equivalent) for less than the cost of the 18-200mm. I am sure I can add a nice wide angle lens and still keep the total cost of all three nikkor lenses for around the same price as 18-200mm.
The Bottom Line:
If you need lenses for specialized shooting situations, then you will need to break open your wallet and pay what it costs.
If you get the 18-135mm zoom lens, you should be able to include a second and maybe a third lens for around the same price as the 18-200mm.
If you don't buy a digital lens longer than 135mm(200mm 35mm equivalent), don't sweat it.
The beauty of the 10 MP with the D80 is that you can crop your images and enlarge a portion of the frame with still maintaining a great image quality, especially with raw image files, there is tons of packed data information. If you used only around 50% of the frame by cropping your image closer to give you a simulation of a longer zoom ratio, you would still have no problem making nice clear wall prints at around 24"x36" or better. The D80 renders the pixels like continuous film tone, so you have mega back up pixels to work with.
I hope this info has been helpful in your decision of lenses.
Happy Shopping!
Piero Foto
Just following up to see how and which lenses worked out for you!
If you still need any further advice just reply below.
Thanks!
And this is just to thanks you guys for your criterias.
For me, three lens with a wider capacity for the same price is reazon enaugh!
JUV
Digital advisors have noticed you have not selected an answer yet. Advisors on this site like my self take our own personal time and efforts on a volunteer basis to answer questions and help photographers like yourself with advice. If you still need any further advice, then just ask in the reply box below and we will be more than happy to respond, or if you have it under control then it would great if you can return the kindness and select best answer to close the question.
Thank you in advance.
I am also planning to buy D80, can you please guide me as to what's the price of just the body and what all do you need other than that?
Like the lens 18mm - 200mm how much would it cost?
Waiting for your reply desparately.
Thanks
CHandrika
I bought de D80 with de AF-S NIKKOR 18-135mm 1:3,5-5,6G ED
And it really works fine for almost all porpuoses.
Sharp, & clear, not too much lugage to carry, acceptable price.
I'm an architect and need to take interiors and exteriors photos (sometimes landscapes for fun).
Unless, you were a "papparazzo" ...
Thank you for your responces. I ended up getting the body and a 50 mm f1.4 lens and ordering the 18-200mm vr lens. It took about 3 months to get here, but it was worth the wait. the 18-200 lens has become my standard lens, but, when shooting in low light or trying to force attention on a subject by bluring out the rest of the picture, I use the 50mm. I would highly recomend both of these lenses.
PS, I ended up paying the following:
Body: $840 (With tax)
50mm :$300 (est. I forgot the exact amount.
18-200mm : $790 (With tax) (I could have gotten it cheaper at Penn Camera.)
uv and polarizer for 50mm: about $100 (but if I have to do it over again I would only get the uv.)
uv and polarizer for the 18-200mm: $120 (both are good)
Once again, Thank you all.
Chris C
The 18 -200mm sounds pretty expensive for me. I will try first with the 18-135mm. Hope that won't be this expensive.
Any more info please keep me updated on the same.
Thanks
Chandrika
Happy Shopping!
These are both very good cameras, and both have very solid feature sets. They're very closely matched in most regards. There are, however, a few differences.
The Canon has an automatic dust removal feature that keeps the CCD clean, a very nice 10MP sensor, and reverse compatibility with all Canon autofocus lenses. Unfortunately, your T70 uses the older FD mount manual lenses, so they won't do you much good with the XTi.
The Nikon ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), on the other hand, has superior build quality (just feels more solid in your hand--more metal, less plastic), offers spot metering (which the Canon doesn't--you'll have to use your live histogram), and has a brighter, clearer viewfinder.
Frankly, I think you'd be happy with either camera. If you've been happy with Canon products in the past, that might be enough to tip your hand here. You might, however, want to check out this comprehensive side-by-side comparison ( dcviews.com/reviews/Canon-R... ) of the D80 and XTi. It does a much better job than I could ever do of enumerating the pros and cons of each camera.
Since you are professional you must have at least one film SLR and all bunch of lenses? Then you should look for a digital SLR from the same brand. Because you will be able to use most of the lenses you already have. And you know that good lenses cost way more than a camera... So, for example if you have Nikon lenses then a professional DSLR would be D2Xs. In digital world the difference between "professional" and "amateur" is the same as it is in the film camera world. The really expensive professional ones are more stronger, bigger, have faster continuous shooting options and allow using bigger memory cards sometimes. The picture quality, however, is about the same as you get using "cheap amateur" one like Nikon D50 for example.
Some of the expensive models have 16-megapixel sensors. I understand that that resolution now exceeds the resolution of 35mm film. I don't know this to be a fact, but gee, 16 million 'dots' is a lot of dots! So it sure sounds plausible.
The dSLR's start around $700, and go up and up from there.
The D80 is a good camera, don't get me wrong, but the D200 has weather sealed features, and the D80 does not. The Shutter actuations on the D200 is rated higher as well.
I've held both the D2X (older D2X) and the D200 and they both have a solid and professional feel. The lenses (assuming you have Nikon film gear) are going to be compatible as well as long as your previous film gear was AF. If you used to use a manual focus film camera, I'm guessing without a lens adapter, you are going to be out of luck.
The D200 had some banding issues in JPG images in first releases, but this has since been remedied. The pricing of the D200 is in and about the 1399 range (body only, price from B&H), vs about 930.00 for the D80). I believe the difference in price is worth it.
Highly recommend no matter what you choose (either D200 or D80), to get the lower battery grip as this adds a bit more grip to the camera and as well offers a vertical shutter release button (great for portrait oriented images). On top of that, 2 batteries can be used for all day shooting.
In the film camera days you had to change film every 36 exposures.. While I miss that, It's also nice to put 2 batteries and a 12gb card in the camera and shoot all day without blinking an eye.
Good luck in your search, I think no matter what you choose you will be happy going digital.
Of these three cameras, the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is by far the best rated by pros and users. Of course, it's also the most expensive. For you, however, someone just getting into fully manual photography, I might agree with your choice of the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is probably a better beginner SLR than the Nikon and roughly equivalent with the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Additionally, it has the benefit of in-camera image stabilization, which will work with any compatible AF lens. You can use Minolta AF lenses with the A100, which means that you have a cheap source of new glass.
Hope this helps!
Sounds like you got a heck of a deal. Hope it works out well for you. :)
Most dSLR cameras do not have an internal image stabilization system. The Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is no different. With faster shutter speeds, this is not usually needed. You can purchase Nikon specific IS lenses ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/i... ) if you are using slower shutter speeds or are zooming at high levels and want the extra stability. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Image stabilization is really only usefull in certain circumstances, all depending on your shooting needs. If most of your photography is based on studio still life, or wide angle focal lengths, or if mainly used on a tripod, monopod, or some type of steady apparatus, then there is no need to pay extra for an image stabilization lens. But for sports or capturing any type of action subjects with longer focal lengths then an image stabilization lens will be helpful which also depends on each individual of how steady they personally are.
Whether you are using a image stabilization lens or not, I would recommend using a monopod for any hand held shooting situation. Once you use a monopod you will wonder why you did not use one sooner, plus it will save you time by reducing your shooting ratio and money on the extra lenses.
Happy Shopping!
Piero Foto
If you are looking to be versatile I would suggest getting the D50 and spending the difference on lenses so you have a options on on safari. I know from experience that you are going to want a Long Prime Lens on safari and for surfing. A nice Zoom (60mm~200mm) lens would be great and incredably versatile too, and even a macro lens for real detailed shoots. As long as you are not planning on printing these stills much bigger than 8x10 you will not see much of a quality difference. And with a few lens you will have the options to get the exact photo you want.
Good luck.
Thanks very much for your answer.
Would you recommend the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor for either camera (D50 or D80) as the best all-around use lense?
These are both digital SLRs, and no digital SLR has a live LCD preview. This is due to the way SLR cameras are constructed, and there's not much manufacturers can do about it. However, since they're serious cameras, dSLRs have great optical viewfinders--I'm sure you'd get used to shooting with them.
All dSLRs these days have very easy to use automatic modes, so I have little doubt that you would adapt to either of these cameras quite easily. However, if you step outside of the automatic mode, what you've got with a dSLR is essentially a pro camera with full manual settings options--lots of buttons and dials to learn about. Lots of camera to grow into, for sure.
Between these two cameras, I honestly can't make a quick recommendation. Pesonally, I feel the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... is a slightly better camera than the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... (stronger build, more pro feel) and in general it has slightly better user and pro reviews, but in truth all cameras at this level are pretty great and fairly comparable in quality. In addition, the 400D is significantly cheaper than the D80. Personal preference between one model or another usually comes down to how the cameras feel in your hand, how you like the way they respond, and the comfort you have with navigating their various menus and modes. I'd really recommend going to your local electronics superstore and trying to get your hands on each. There should be display models in full working condition with the kit lenses. I'd recommend Best Buy or some place similar.
Good luck!
The SLRs most similar to Canon's Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are probably:
Sony's Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Pentax's K10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
They're all 10MP cameras, they all come with similar kit lenses, and they're all in the same general price ballpark. Good luck!
The Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is pretty hardcore and offers more manual control than you probably ever realized you could have. It's quite an investment, but worth it provided you know how to use it.
Honestly? If you haven't already, I'd go to the camera store and see how the top DSLRs feel in your hands. When it gets right down to it any of them are going to fit your needs, and you should go with the one that feels best/ most natural to you.
-Nikon D80= more solid, heavier-weight body, comfortable feel. Canon can sometimes be overpowered by heavy lenses.
-Nikon D80= more manual features! Just about any that you could possibly want- metering, bracketing etc.
-Nikon D80= faster shot to shot times, shutter lag, image processing, everything. Not by much, mind you- both are speedy- but it wins by a hair.
Basically, there's a reason the D80 costs more. Hope that helps.
Honestly, either camera would serve you equally well. The D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a bit newer and a bit flashier in terms of features and whatnot, but it's really a minor upgrade over what the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )'s got. My best advice here is to go to a store where you can get your hands on both cameras, try them out, see which one feels best to you.
I have been following CMOS technology since late '90s when it was introduced in digital devices. The original concept for CMOS was to create a new photo imaging technology that would pack more megapixels in a chip and also make it more cost efficient than CCD. Well, they did just that, but the drawback to CMOS technology is, the same high quality imaging could not be achieved as in CCD technology. Even though CMOS produces a good quality, the CCD is still more superior. To compensate for some imaging weaknesses of CMOS, it takes up to around 25% more CMOS megapixels to bring the quality some where equivalent to CCD megapixels. So, for e.g. an 8 megapixel CMOS chip would be equivalent to around a high quality 6 megapixel CCD chip, or a 10 megapixel high quality CCD chip could be rated in comparison to around a 13 megapixel CMOS chip. This would mean that the Nikon D80 in a best case scenario is able of producing high quality photo images up to double the size than from the Canon 30D. These image results become more noticeable when printing large display prints or where certain detail is critical like in the lower 10% and or the higher 90% of RGB DATA. For brochure and web images either camera at full frame are generally over kill. Some Nikon D80 users have complained about the images looking a little soft, that's because there is tons of detail data packed in the image file which will appear soft looking when viewing an image at a lower magnification, but if you enlarge the image to a huge display print its perfect. The solution to this image softness is to just lower the resolution first before you decide to use sharpening option when you are using images at smaller size, because at full resolution the file size would be over kill for small prints.
Nikon was founded in year 1910. The top three major optics company in Japan merged together to form the Nikon Corporation, originally known as Nippon Kogaku K.K. Their expertise is based around high quality optics, originally with binoculars and microscopes, then progressed to nikon cameras and many other instruments that required the best optical quality. Nikon had about 30 years of optical expertise before the nikon camera came was introduced. That's why the Nikon razor sharp optics is and has been so famously known for. At the same time, optical detail can be degraded from poor supporting recording media, whether its film or digital. The high quality results of CCD technology is why Nikon will not stand down or compromise.
I have never come across any photographers that purchased a Nikon camera system for the reason of: cosmetic stylish looks, marketing trends and gimmicks, fancy packaging, cheap price, or because it was an alternative to some other higher quality camera system. They all purchased a Nikon camera system for the same reason, for the high quality. There is not one other major camera manufacture that can claim that. Around 1980 when Nikon introduced the great line of Nikkor AI lenses, a percentage of photographers did not like cosmetic look of these AI lenses and switched over to Canon because it was more attractive, regardless of how good the Nikkor lenses were. Around the same time, Canon introduced the fancy AE programming that attracted more non-serious photographers, "I REST MY CASE"
As far as making your final choice between the Nikon or Canon., they both have similar features that will do the job for your sports photography needs. The new 18-135mm Nikkor zoom lens that Nikon has packaged with the D80 and the D200 has to be one of the best versatile digital lenses available, "OUTSTANDING". The coverage from this zoom ratio will be more than likely the only digital lens most Nikon photographers will ever need. The auto focus motor is quick and extremely quite. The optics are razor sharp.
One final thought to consider. If you are at a professional commercial photography level, I would recommend looking into a Hasselblad digital camera system. The H1D offers a 22 megapixel CCD (medium format) camera or the H2D that offers a super high quality 39 megapixel CCD.(DSLR).
Good Luck!
Piero Foto
If you ever see a H1D offers a 22 megapixel CCD (medium format) camera at a football game it won't be shooting the game. my guess it will be shooting the cheerleaders. A camera is a tool not an item of worship. Choose the camera that meets you needs and budget. Either of the 2 cameras you are looking for purchase are good cameras. I dare any one to look at a photo you take and frame on your wall to guess which camera you choose.
Good luck on taking great photos.
AG
I started taking pictures on the streets of Vienna, Austria in 1946. I have shot with Leicas, Rolleis, Nikons, Pentaxes, Canons, Retinas and many others. I still have a Nikon F Photomic T with four lenses as well as a Leica IIIg with four lenses. Most all of the cameras I have used have been of quality at the time. The statement is really absurd. However, I would agree with his conclusion that either of the cameras would produce excellent results. Good advice and I admire his effort at the detailed explanations, but it all distills down to reading three or four reviews of each, going into a camea store and handling the camera, and then buying the camera. With the upgrades in cameras every six to eighteen months, they will be or are already overtaken by new features on new cameras.
Recently, I was in a toss up between the D80 and 30D for semi-professional, off-work, leisure use. I have toyed around with both the D70s and 30D, before, and they were both equally capable to produce remarkable photos when in the right hands. After some deliberation, I finally decided on the D80 for a number of reasons: First and foremost, Nikon has consistently focused its resources into the field of photography, so their expertise in mechanics and optics should be and is unsurpassed at this level (albeit Leica and the Zeiss). On the contrary, Canon seems to be a follower in this field, despite having caught up fast. Canon is frankly not as focused in this field, despite its agressive marketing tatics to capture a wide fan-base (Red / Gold ring lenses, white lenses, etc. which is simply meaningless to the anyone who knows his lenses). Secondly, the "feel" of the D80 is definitely more comfortable and well-balanced when the camera is held at hand. While it could be generally true that the more solid feeling camera (usually the heavier weighing one) gives a more sturdy and professional grip, I found the lighter D80 to be ideally weighed and more balanced, with a center of gravity appropriately place (lower-center-rear), while the 30D was unncessarily heavy and tended to twist and tilt ones grip forward-right (I can imagine this worsening on heavier lenses). This creates a magnitude of uncomfort once the 30D is used for longer periods. Thirdly is the fact that the Nikkor lenses are more appropriately priced. I am unsure whether this is a marketing tactic; however, I have witnessed consistent price increases for Canon lenses over the past 10 years, without significant improvement towards quality. One point that may affect the decision of buyers towards the Canon is the fact that it is "assembled" in Japan, while the Nikon is "assembled" in Thailand. If there were two versions of the D80, one from Japan for Japanese market and one from Thailand for the rest of the world, then I'd worry. But frankly, when even the discerning Japanese consumers are getting the same product, this becomes a mute point. Nikon will not risk its image and status through offering potentially lower quality products. Your Benz, Porsche or BMW will have many components not made in Germany. Likewise for a 30D that is only assembled in Japan.
That said, I shoot with Nikon.
That being said, I'm a Canon man. Nikon lost my interest with their very slow and bulky autofocus cameras back in the 80s. But their new digitals look pretty good though.
I have been going nuts reading reviews after reviews. I am trying to find the right camera for me. I used to own a Canon EOS Rebel G which I loved so much. It just gave up on me when I went on my 8 weeks vacation, I took about 300 pictures (during the last week of my vacation) and I owned it for ~10 years. Now I have a Panasonic FZ20k. It takes great pictures both indoor and outdoor. Since my kids are now playing hockey, softball/baseball I would like to move on to a DSLR camera where I can actually play with the lens. So, for indoor sports or Musical play which camera is good in low light? One camera dealer advised me to get Pentax k10D because of the SR; the others said get the XTi. I did get the Xti; it was very light and felt like a toy to me. So, I returned it. Then I moved on to K10D, I actually purchased it and let it sat in the bag for couple of days. Finally when I opened the box, it was used so I returned it too.(I learned my lesson there by the way) And was told it was the only one they have in the store. So, in other words I am still waiting for another K10D to arrive. I think it's a sign not to get the K10D?
Now, I am back to reading reviews after reviews after reviews. I am now moving on to D80 vs. 30D (perhaps D40x???). After reading this:
************************************************
DSLR wrote:
I finally decided on the D80 for a number of reasons: First and foremost, Nikon has consistently focused its resources into the field of photography, so their expertise in mechanics and optics should be and is unsurpassed at this level (albeit Leica and the Zeiss). On the contrary, Canon seems to be a follower in this field, despite having caught up fast.
************************************************
I am leaning towards the D80. Which camera is good in low/ indoor lights? I have read the CNet reviews for the D80 they gave it 8.4, Canon 30D I think it's an 8.0 and the D40x doesn't have one yet. They did have a review for D40 of 7.4 out of 10. Since the D40X is clone of D40 ( except it's 10 megapixels) do you think I should wait for the D40X reviews? If I get the D80, Is 200mm f2.8 fast enough to capture good pictures? Is Sigma 200mm f2.8 going to fit in the Nikon D80? Or does Tamron have 200 mm f2.8 that will fit in D80? What specific lense should I buy? Doesn't lenses have letters (mount?) after the f2.8. I am new to this whole thing so, please help. Thanks again for your time.
If the XTi was too light for you (a toy), you most certainly want the 30D or the D80 (or D200). Opinions about which company is conceptually better at cameras notwithstanding, Nikon and Canon are both real camera makers, and these are all real cameras. If you have any lenses from your old Rebel, then they'll work on the 30D, which would seal the deal for me. If not, then it's a toss up.
As a long-time Canon owner and serious (not professional) photographer, I very much appreciate the solid, strong performance of the 30D predecessor, the 10D which I have owned since it was released in 2004. The metal body, great functionality and speed are all great in the 10D, even by today's standards. The 30D is faster, has an even better image processor (lower noise at high ISO), more MP, a spot meter and a few other things I miss a little on the 10D. So it sounds like a great camera. I have heard similar raves about the 200D from Nikon.
I do think Nikon's glass has a great rep, however you should know they are going through a transition now, putting the focus motor in the camera, where it used to be in the lens (they had it in the lens for backward compatibility with their non-AE/AF lenses from many years ago). This means, I think, that there will be some incompatibilities in their lens line over the next few years. Canon made that switch (much to the ire of Canon owners then) in the early 1980s. So you may have a wider selection of lenses from Canon, although that's mostly speculation.
I would avoid all the other dSLRs, given your experiences so far. While many are fine, the Canon and Nikon offerings are the ones most pros choose, and if you want a solid camera, this is where you should stick. You will NOT be disappointed in either.
To lighthouse, you asked about shooting indoors (I presume portrait photos). This depends on the distances you will be covering during your indoor shooting. 200mm is obviously great if you need to reach across relatively long distance (e.g. runway models or podium speakers). However, if you are mainly shooting portrait across distances within 2-3 meters, you may even consider a fix-focus 35mm or 50mm f/1.8 or 1.4 lens, which are great for indoors and out-door night photography.
All said, I tend to lean towards Nikon bodies due to my believe in the range and quality of Nikkor lenses. Agreed with DeRuvo.
Thank you all for responding to my message. It helped me a lot in deciding what to get. I finally got the D80 with 55-200mm Quant...for $1099 plus $50 gift card and 19.99 Epson mini printer. I think I had a great deal. I was a little picky w/ the lens they gave me. It had some finger prints when I got it so, I returned it and got a Nikkor 55-200mm instead. I paid the difference with the $50 gift card I got when I bought the kit and $50 more in cash. In short paid $1150 (out of pocket) for D80 body and Nikon 55-200mm lens. I also ordered me a nice Nikkor 50mm f1.8 lens for the indoor portraits. I do think that the 55-200mm Nikkor lense will be good enough for now. I am saving for a faster lens i.e. f2.8 for my indoor "Hockey photos". NOW, my last question... Which of these Nikon lenses is good enough for shooting indoor hockey photos and I can also use outdoor? 180mm , 55-200 or 105mm f2.8 ? Is there a 18-180mm/25-180mm made by Nikon?Please let me know which will be the smart choice bec. I don't have that much money to spend. I know if I can get a lens that's faster (indoor) than the Quant that I got now, I will be happy and won't even think of any other lens again. Again, THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR GOOD ADVISE. Hope to hear from you soon.
As for buying a 50mm lens, frankly, I think that's a waste of money. Get the 105mm Nikon instead. And I think that you're covered on the lens for hockey.
On the subject of lenses for the Nikon id go with the 18-70mm and a nice 50mm, as I take mostly low light shots.
by the way someone mentioned looking at cnet reviews.....don't. Bias bias bias is all I can say about their camera reviews . They are not photographers and many of their statements are down right inaccurate. They rate based solely on how expensive a product is.
Light house, Nikon makes a 70-300mm f3.5-4.5 with an image stabalizer on it. Runs brand new around $450.
Deep: Sorry I haven't had a chance to check my e-mail for the longest time lol. Anyhow, if it's not too late, I got mine at Ritz/Wolfe Camera. I did wait for a long time to get that deal :-P Check their website and they might have a sale for "Mother's Day".
Haley: Thanks :- )
Liehsc and Marley: I will definitely check out those lenses. Thank again:-)
And YES!!! I'm loving my new D80 (with 50mm f/1.8)
In the end, you can read all the reviews you want and you're just as confused as you started. But when you're holding that camera in your hand, seeing what it looks like in the viewfinder, and judging the speed of the focus, etc. first hand, then suddenly, all becomes clear.
Just don't let the salesman sell you on third party lenses and accessories unless you like the results. Salesmen make their commission (called spiffs) on these third party accessories. So beware.
As for weight, I you may find other lenses that could be slightly lighter, but what's the tradeoff? My experience has been that usually third party lenses are heavier than manufacturer lenses. But YMMV.
Glad you found the camera for you, Tom! Enjoy!
That said I am concerned about the idea the Nikon is changing their lens format accross the line as per the D40x model. If that is true there won't be many new lenses coming out for the D80 in the years to come an what lenses I do invest in won't be compatible with future Nikon bodies. Come to think of it that would be a huge determining factor and would lead me back again to the 30D. Help me please, I'm going around in circles and I'm getting dizzy.
Great forum btw and this thead particular has been helpful in addressing my dilemma. Thanks for any and all feedback. ~ Mike
Anyone who can solve Mike's question once and for all...without a depends what your gonna do with it attitude will thereby make my decision as well. Thanks!
Bruin, really, what's the point of a 50mm? It has such a narrow focal range that you won't really use it that often - if you have a zoom along for the ride. When mine came with it, I stuck it in a drawer and never used it.
Now as to the 50 mm that was what I was going to get, the 30D body and the "fantastic plastic". Until I could save up for a decent lens. In reviewing lenses(photozone) the kit lenses all seem terrible, so I'm at a loss.
Ideally I'd find something that covered the lower to mid range i.e. 17-85, 18-55 the 28-135 IS is available in a kit with the 30D for $1288.00. The cost of the 17-55 2.8 is prohibitive as is the 24-105 2.8L. Basically 1300 maybe 1400 is the most (more actually but) that I can afford right now but I don't feel like that means I have to settle for the XTI/D40.I should just keep saving a get the 5D /24-105L kit...in about a year. lol
What do you recommend?
Oh I learned that I was uninformed regarding the new Nikon lenses with motors and their compatibilty with the D80/D200 bodies with motors.
adorama.com/NK70300AFGU.htm... the link to Ken Rockwell's site tha pertains to Nikon lenses.
kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikko...
I would advise saving up for a few more months and get the lens you REALLY want. Since you have it as a goal to go Pro, you won't regret being patient and having the right tools.
One last thing. No matter what lens you end up getting, plan on laying out another $25 or so for a 1A Skylight filter. It's a must for protecting your lens elements and is a good, cheap insurance policy. I can't tell you how many times I trashed a 1A filter, but saved my lens from impact damage!
Then, when you're ready to purchase the camera, you have a leg up in both experience, and price deductions.
N80: $1110
30D: $1275
A $165 price difference isn't much, but I'm already over my $1000 budget. Add in a 4GB card, a case, that Skylight filter, maybe an extra battery and I'm way over...so that's why I'm going to get the N80...maybe.
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... got confused.
There are many upsides to certain cameras; the huge sensor on the 30D may influence your purchase, or the wonderful Nikkor lenses available with the D80. Perhaps you have had a camera before from one of them--obviously some of the lenses can be used on a future purchased camera. There are variables to each purchase, and very well there should be.
But the best thing you can do is try them out. Whether from a friend or family member, or even for a brief time at a store, it is DEFINITELY worth your time to get a feel of the camera before your purchase. NEVER purchase blind, you will get surprises you didn't ask for.
Realize your options and make your favorite pick. All in all, you will find what you like for a reason that suits you.
As for the Rebel XTi, it's a worthy alternative.
And there are many used Canon Lenses to be had a Fremiranda.coms buy/sell board. I bought a used EF 24-105F4L for 940.00. I can't wait to get to shooting.
Thanks for all the info from this thread where I posted some time ago but have been following since. That said I always loved the feel of the D80 in my hands and I'm certain it's an outstanding camera. Hopefully I don't regret my decision, I don't think I will. All the best and happy shooting. :)
photozone.de/8Reviews/index... a base noob but my impression is that Tamron, Tokina and Sigma all sell third party lenses and all either hit or miss. It's very lens specific. for instance the Tamron 17-50 and 28-75 are somewhat legendary for being incredibly sharp and wonderful. I've heard great things about the Tokina 12-24. Sigma's new 18-50 2.8 seems like a winner as well. I think they all make some very good lenses and some not so hot. Check reviews first.
I keep getting caught in this loop: "I should buy the XTi because I have Tamron glass for my Ti2 already, filters, etc. But I'd like to move up to the 30D since it's a bigger sensor and better camera. But the 30D is almost outdated w/ a 40D sooner or later. But I could save $200, dump my Tamron glass on eBay and move over to the D80 which is cheaper and comparable to the older 30D and just buy new glass for the Nikon. But if I'm going to do all of that, maybe I should just buy an XTi and a great lens."
And then I'm screwed. It's really hard to be sure what to do here.
You could also consider renting a model or two. Most smaller camera companies will rent you a camera for a day or weekend and will even apply the rental price to the camera if you buy it from them.
I'd probably be saying the same thing regardless of which one I chose. Happy shooting. ~ Mike
XTi is out. Just doesn't feel right. I'm sure it takes good pictures but it doesn't feel right for me.
D80 has a nice feel. I like it. I like the layout, the menu system. Looks good, feel comfortable with it.
30D feels like I could kill someone with it, properly grasped and swung. It was dead so I couldn't play with menus but it certainly has a nice feel in my hand.
I do have Canon glass, but it's only about $200 worth, tops.
So 2 slightly less subjective questions based on reading today:
(1) in terms of megapixels and image quality, how does the 30D compare to the D80? I know the 30D is only 8.2 but I don't know if that means any real meaningful compromise in image. If you were buying solely on image quality and electronics (AF points, metering, etc.) is there a big advantage to one or the other? I've got them both in a spreadsheet and they look awfully close but I may have missed something.
(2) can either camera put RAW into Photoshop without 3rd party software? If I have to buy a piece of software to get the RAW from one or the other, that's a consideration. I work in advertising and while I don't need to shoot billboard size, I do want maximum flexibility going into CS3.
Thanks again.
I must say that first I was choosing between XTI and D80. And XTI was so cheap that I could get it with an average lens for around $1000.. but this cheap is not for free. No LCD display, lack of button/dial controls - it really reminds of an advanced point-and-shoot, which allows doing your controls only by browsing thru menu... I had opportunity to play a while with such advanced p&s cameras.. and after many attempts to set your aperture/speed and so on, you are getting tired of browsing in menu, and just set to AUTO and forget about any additional features. AND!!! the feel...When I held XTI in my hand, it felt so cheap, the tiny viewfinder.. weight..plastic. No it's not for me.
So in my opinion Canon has currently a gap for advanced amateurs. They definitely won't choose XTI, unless they have already invested in lenses and have no money to get 30D. And also many won't choose 30D because it's already not that new and has not much serious changes since 20D. If I choose 30D then I would not be quite happy when in some 6 months would come the "40D" with almost same price, and lowerng the price of 30D to 30% down.
That's why I have chosen D80. I had no budget for 2.8 apertured Nikkor anymore, and I have chosen Tamron AF 17-50mm f-2_8 SP XR Di II. It's fast enough, it's sharp, it's great, except... very few pictures have small blurry circles in same 2 to 3 places. That's not dust definitely - I cleaned lens and same as before. That's not sensor - it's my only lens currently and I have installed lens only twice (the second time I was checking sensor for dust). Then I looked thru the lens very thoroughly and found 2 tiny particles inside. It's really a bad surprise! One is between one of front glasses and aperture leaves and the other is between back glasses and aperture. I am currently making test pictures, but cannot find these flaws again. Maybe this occurs only under some lightning conditions? I know this is not the most correct place to ask, but any advise is very helpful. Did anyone met something like this? Does anyone have lenses with such particles inside? Should I return this lens to manufacturer?
Sorry for long tale...
Other than family gatherings, most of my photos are of my son's sports. He does Cross Country running and biking (tour bike races). I find that I am missing shots (mostly during the bike races) because the camera is not fast enough. It sounds like the 30D shutter speed will solve this problem. (I currently use a SanDisk Extreme III 2.0 GB CF). Since my lenses were purchased prior to the digital SLR, could this also be part of my problem? Do I need to worry about upgrading my lenses for the digital cameras?
Thanks
D80 or EOS 30D ???
Well.. I'm a serious photographer... and I bought EOS 10D on 2004 then move to 20D ... I like the result of my canon, the problem is that canon doesn't has a good balance, so if you are using it for a long time, your hand will soon be tired.
So last year I decided to buy D80 and 18-200 nikon lens. This was the first time I use Nikon .. and I've never been so happy to feel the solid and balance body of D80, It has a fantastic viewfinder (It's very .. very brilliant clear), the magnification is good. Image quality is very good.
so here is my opinion regarding nikon or canon:
- if you shoot RAW image result would consider the same, but if you shoot JPEG I found that my canon has
a better "out of camera" result (but anyway you can easily adjust with photoshop)
- if you happen to shoot in a low light condition then canon is better.
- if you are looking for a good "handling" DSLR then I prefer nikon, since I consider "handling" is very important
for me
- speaking about the lenses, both nikon and canon have a very reliable good lenses.
- one thing that annoying me with my nikon is the sound of the focusing motor, while canon has a very silent
motor.
finally... I can't wait to see the 40D reviews.
But if price is an issue, then the Tokina should be an affordable alternative.
are cleaned.Also,does it matter that the D80 flash sy speed is 200?
I have only used a point and shoot digital so this is a new world
to me.I have used my minolta x700 for many years so I do know how
to shoot.I am just still analog in this digital world.Thanks to everyone
in this blog you have given me alot to think about.
However, many pros in sports use the Canon. I think Radswim would be happy either way. And since you're already comfortable with the Nikon platform, I'd stay that way.
Here's another article ( associatedcontent.com/artic... ) which may help to know what to look for.
You want a good fluid head and a quick release plate which will allow you to shoot on the go.
As for personal use - I like Velbon for the basic tripod. But size and weight does matter. Keep in mind when shopping around for tripods the weight of your camera plus the weight of extras. Make sure that tripod can carry the load of the camera, lenses and flash.
Ken makes some good points, but I've found reviews ( bythom.com/105AFSlens.htm ) that state that it has nice overall performance. So I think it's a case of Your Mileage May Vary.
Since we're talking about a few hundred here, I'm betting, why not go to a local premium camera store and see if you can rent one? That way you get a first hand experience with the lens and often, if you buy it from them, they'll deduct the cost of the rental from the sale price.
Hi Alex,
I only know e-bay or Amazon.com for second hand stuff but then again, James is right ... "Well, the thing about eBay is you pay your money and you takes your chances.”
Ritzcamera.com has it: Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor Close-up Lens Mfr # 2160 Our Stock # 541535902 Our Price: $899.95
I have the 50mm with f1.8 it is very good and very fast. I am thinking about getting the 18-200 VR lens myself because I have kids to follow around with the camera and sure am tired of switching lenses in between... Thank you James for the advice......
Cheers,
Good luck Alex. If you end up getting the 108mm, please let me know how it is.. /thanks.
My friend has a D80 with the 18-200mm lens + UV filter. Is ths lens the best for shooting (not literally of course) big game in the morning?
Mike
CanonEOS 40D w.28-135 lens- $1499.99
Nikon D80 w/ 18-135mm lens--$1149.88
Thoughts?
In my mind, both are equal to the task.
D80 - 10.2mega pixles
30D - 8.2mega pixles
Does this really make much difference?
To answer PenK's question from August, I upgraded from the 300D Rebel to the 30D and yes, the speed alone was worth the upgrade. You won't be missing shots anymore, and I definitely had that problem with the Rebel, primarily because of the shallow 4 jpeg buffer.
Someone, megapixels matter very, very little. The difference when I went from 6.3MP to 8.2MP was that my images were just 500 pixels wider and 300 pixels taller. Going to 10MP would offer an even smaller improvement.
As a 30D user, I do get slightly envious of D80/D200 users. Some areas Canon's products are better, like low noise images at high ISOs, while Nikon wins in other areas. However the decision is even harder nowadays, with the 40D being out. That camera truly gives Nikon a run for their money and has features that they don't offer, like the sensor self-clean.
I would recommend the Canon xxD line over Nikon, to anyone wanting to take pictures at high ISOs. WOW. Sometimes I forget I'm shooting, say, ISO 1600, because the pictures look so good. Very clean images, especially when paired with an "IS" image stabilizer lens.
Buying into Nikon vs Canon "system" is definitely an extremely difficult choice to make. Although I think there's no wrong answer. Good luck to everyone facing it!
I really need some help with which lens to pick, and if the nonNikkor lens are any good.
Thanks for any help at all.
Nikon D80 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera Kit with 18-135mm AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens @ $1000
Nikon D40x 10.2MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens @ $929
I am planning to buy my first dslr. Photography is my hobby and I generally do street photos, cityscapes and I prefer b/w shooting a lot.
Would prefer an all-in-one lens to start off with as I'm practically on a shoe-string budget.
Need advice as I'm simply overwhelmed by the huge array of reviews I've been reading for the better part of last month!!
I leave the decision to you guys...please help narrow down within a week's time.
I started out with Canon EOS 400D aka XTi vs Nikon D80. I've been shooting photos for long, but only with point-n-shoot cameras.
Given D80 has pentaprism viewfinder, spot metering and better ergonomics compared to XTi, I was more inclined for D80. But, I went back and had a look at Canon 30D.
Interestingly price for D80 ($730) vs D30 ($800) is very comparable (body only, as per B&H photo)
Given I don't own any lens now, what tradeoffs would I be making if I choose one over the other.
For now, I'm more oriented towards Canon for it's Magnesium Alloy body compared to D80's high grade plastic, faster 5fps continuous, CMOS sensor (=>better pictures at higher ISOs), better choice of post-processing software.
Actually this should be in a separate thread, but...
Lenses: No matter what body I choose, I plan to buy Tamron 18-200mm over kit-lenses. My justification for this is that this lens would allow me experiment more (meaning higher range of focal lengths) and would serve as a good starter all-in-one lens.
As an expert, what is your take on that?
P.S. This post is NOT intended to evoke the Nikon vs Canon ire. Just expecting some genuine feedback that would help me understand tradeoffs.
The CMOS sensor is the real ticket and will reduce noise at higher ISO - which is the achilles heal of higher MP cameras in the point and shoot world.
Now to lenses, have you taken a look at the Sigma varieties? They are running neck and neck with Canon/Nikon lenses of late and some, according to Photography magazine and testimonies on this board, are down right superior.
An all in one lens is ideal just starting out. Just do yourself a favor and buy a 1A Skylight filter for it. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
Actually, I'm a careful handler, but doesn't hurt to know body could take some beating :)
>The faster burst mode is a plus if you shoot action shots more.
Yes, since I would love to have an all rounder body, good to have this feature.
I don't photograph for living, and so, can't afford many bodies, at least to start with.
>As for "post-processing software" that's a wash as the best is Photoshop/Photoshop Elements, anyway. A free option is Picasa from Google. It's a great tool for managing your photographs, cleaning up red eye, and even printing them.
Noted!
>Now to lenses, have you taken a look at the Sigma varieties?
No, actually I only looked Tamron.
>They are running neck and neck with Canon/Nikon lenses of late and some, according to Photography magazine and testimonies on this board, are down right superior.
Are you talking about 18-200mm in particular? If so, then the prices are exactly the same on B&H photo.
And in one review I read, they perform equally well. If you are talking about long run other lenses,
I definitely need to look at more lenses.
>An all in one lens is ideal just starting out.
Yes, that's the goal, to get started. And also for occasions where changing lenses would be clumsy
or not favorable.
>Just do yourself a favor and buy a 1A Skylight filter for it. Reason being? Insurance. They will take any impact damage and spare your lens. I can't tell you many times I have thrashed a 1A filter and saved my camera lens. It's well worth the $20 or so, believe me.
Thanks a ton for that one James. Since I'm just starting with DSLR, I didn't know this was so important.
I'll definitely add it to my must-have list and buy it off along with the lens.
I have the fixed 50mm 1.8f lense and I am very happy with it. The only thing is I can't really use it about 10 feet away from my subject. If I were to take Baptism or bday party pictures what fixed or fish eye lense would you recommend? Should I use 18, 12-24 or 10.8? Also, something inexpensive for an amateur like me. Thanks again.
I have the 18-200mm VR already (it's just heavy)... But it's a good thing that I don't have to spend anymore :-} Have a good day! Thanks again.
But sure, it'll help.
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Nikon D60 - Nikon AF-S DX 18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses $800
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If you're a novice but are interested in moving into DSLRs, you'll have a learning curve ahead of you. With that said, they are worth the investment if you're dedicated to learning how to use them.
If you like the Nikon line, a cheaper alternative to the D80 is the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It's Nikon's 'entry level' DSLR, and it has a full automatic mode so that you can still get good pictures even while you're learning how to use it. Yet it has the majority of the perks of a full DSLR. Definitely worth a look if the D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a little too out there.
I'm partial to Canon's Digital Rebel XTI ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Two very good cameras. Secondly would be Nikon's D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) because Nikkor portrait lenses are the finest in the business.
Pricey, I know. But if this is your business, it will pay to invest in the equipment that gets just the shot you want.
Regarding these two cameras, my opinion is that the Rebel ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does better with handling image noise, and also seems to have more natural color in most lighting situations.
For a really comprehensive look at these cameras side-by-side, (plus the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), I HIGHLY recommend <a href="digitalcamerainfo.com/conte... webpage</a>. It takes forever to read all the comparisons, but there are some great sample images and graphs there so you can really make an informed purchase.
With the dSLR cameras, you can only get the IS in the lenses (for now). I'm sure they will come up with a way to build it into the SLR body in the future though.
Andrew
I would say no on this. Nikon makes great lenses and if you have kept them clean and didn't see issues with them previously, you should be able to enjoy them well into the future.
Andrew
Jan
A digital SLR (DSLR) can mean many things... most often the term is used for something like the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (aka the really heavy-duty stuff). The P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) says that it "doesn't come with the steep earning curve of a dSLR" and that it is for people who want "dSLR-style power without getting bogged down in investing in thousands of dollars for lenses and additional accessories."
So... the P712 isn't really an SLR camera. But it is a point and shoot with some sophisticated features and amazing results. It has full manual settings, so if you want to learn how things work you can turn everything to manual and teach yourself. Or you can just leave it at Auto and use it like a Point and Shoot. I HIGHLY recommend this camera.
For your second question, flash photography, you need to consider two sources of light. One is ambient light, (light other than your flash in the area), and the other is the key light, which in this case would be your flash. It's true that a flash "pop" is so quick that it will effectively stop action just like a fast shutter speed would, but in these cases you must consider how much of the final light in the scene is ambient and how much is key. So, if your flash is 90% of the light in the scene, it's going to freeze action. If your flash is 50% and the ambient light is contributing 50%, then you could see blurring due to the subject moving and/or the camera movement.
There are lots of things to consider. A flash like the SB800 is probably good only to about 30 feet. After that, it's really ineffective. You also have to account for any focus issues. Sports/action photography is not simple, it takes practice. A good sports photographer is like a good hunter... they need to know what they're doing, they need to concentrate, use good technique, etc., all that adds up to the end result.
Hope that helps!
Andrew
I have just determined that using nikkor 35mm film lenses on a digital camera system is simply just not worth the hassles for serious photography. I have just got rid of all my SLR nikkor lenses and invested in new DSLR Nikkor lenses that are compatible with the D80 DSLR camera system.
BOTTOM LINE:
The DSLR lenses works much more better, properly, efficiently, and professionally for digital than the older Nikkor lenses. If photography is your business, I would strongly suggest to step to the plate and update, or else you be defeating the purpose of new technology.
I know its been a while when you asked your question, and since its still an open question I have taken to the chance of responding to it, but if you no longer need any additional advice it would great if you can pick an answer and close off the question, thanks!
I hope this info will help in some way.
Happy Shopping!
Piero Foto
AF - AutoFocus lens. This is the "screwdriver" type autofocus lens. Works fine on the D80. Put it this way, it works no differently between the D80 and the very best old film body.
AF-S - The "newer" autofocus system. This type of lens has a focus motor in the lens itself, with only electrical contacts between the lens and the body. As such, the focusing is generally faster and more quiet.
In fact, even some pre-autofocus lenses will work on the D80. Of course, they won't autofocus, but you can focus them manually. These should be "AI" or better.
Thank you.
You may want to consider a DSLR for REALLY fast times- the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) performs operations in fractions of a second. Understandably the price jumps up too.
Also consider a camera with burst (or continuous) mode. This is a feature that allows you to push the button once and take multiple pictures in succession. For example the 20D mentioned above takes about .2 seconds between shots in burst mode. This is twice as fast as its typical time... burst mode is convenient when shooting something like animals in motion.
But in the realm of point and shoot, the new Sony Cybershots are fast, among others. Here is a chart that shows lag time for many popular cameras; this might help you:
impulseadventure.com/photo/...
Shutter delay is a big concern. Is the Sony H5 the best sub-SLR option? Is shutter delay a problem for SLR cameras? Should step up to a SLR for shooting kid's sporting events?
Thanks!
I sympathize, I'm a 35mm holdout too.
The absolute fastest shutter response in a digital camera is going to come from a DSLR, like the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which has a remarkable 80 millisecond shutter lag. Those cameras are high end but if you're truly interested in a quality camera with fast response (as well as tons of other features) that may be the direction to go.
As far as the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), it has a shutter time lag of about .4 seconds, which is decent but may not be the best on the market. <a href="impulseadventure.com/photo/... is a chart</a> that I find very helpful; it lists shutter lag time (and start-up delay) of some popular cameras and gives you an idea of what's out there for comparison purposes.
I hope that helps!
I'd say for the money, a DSLR is definitely a better choice. Look into the price comparison with a nikon D50 - and it's not a huge stretch (especially if you can find refurbished for ~$450 with kit lens like I did), and the DSLR will allow you an assortment of lenses. the 50's only 6.1 mpx, but ask any pro and they'll tell you megapixels don't matter at all. I've shot with a D50 as a backup to my D2x on shoots and had professional results.
as for shutter lag charts, those are misleading, I think (have you ever had 0.1s delay on a point and shoot?). I think the numbers for point-and-shoot cameras represent when every other camera process is set manually beforehand - that is, you've focused, set aperature/shutter, and all that's left is, well, pointing and shooting. In reality, we all know the 2-3 second delay during which point-and-shoots have to read the scene, get ready ... get ready ... aaaaaand ... shoot - whereas DSLRS are nearly instant even on full auto. I'm sure the rest will get there, too; just not yet.
The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) do use the same lenses. In fact, all of Nikon's digital SLR cameras can use the same lenses. They have a PDF format spec sheet to compare these cameras and lenses here ( nikonusa.com/fileuploads/pd... ).
Thanks, Steve
The Canon 400D is very similar in size and shape - a bit lighter at 1.2lb (with batteries). This really is the state of the art camera. With the nine-point auto focusing feature it is much easier to take quick point and shoot type pictures. In addition it has all the standard manual functions that make it a great top of the line semi-pro camera.
I would say go with the Canon 400D especially if you think you can get a good price on those Nikon lens. But they are both well built cameras and if the price isn't right on selling those lens then the Nikon D80 would make a lot of sense.
Thanks, Steve
After holding it for 10minutes or so I had an ache in my wrist.
No doubt an excellent performer but who would want to use it if discomfort results - it would have been wasted money for me. The Nikon D80 felt great in the hand; I will save a little longer.
Lesson: Read about them but try them for size also
nikonians.org/nikon/slr-len...
I have a Canon 10D, which has since been upgraded twice, now at the Canon EOS 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). This is an outstanding camera. I am not biased toward Canon or Nikon SLRs (though Canon's point-and-shoot cameras are consistently rated higher than Nikon's).
I always avail myself of the opportunity to try out other cameras, and in the last few weeks have tried the Nikon d80 with the kit lens ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Nikon d200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). A friend has the very popular Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), or the Canon XTi 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Based on everything I can see, and have read, the Nikon d200 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 30D. The Nikon d80 is pretty much equivalent to the Canon 350D or 400D. There are subtle differences, and in professional reviews these have occasionally favored Canon's offerings, especially since Canon has beat Nikon to market by a 6 to 12 month lead in the past, so Canon gets the jump on press. The main differences between the more expensive d200 and 30D is that they are more solid cameras; this means they are heavier, but also more durable and a bit more weather resistant. Many professionals use these cameras because of these features.
But they are also bigger and heavier than their less expensive counterparts, the d80 and the 400D. I believe the internal mechanics and electronics are the same for a given brand, although some fancier features may not be available through the menus on the lower-end offerings.
All are simply outstanding, superb cameras, in my humble opinion. There are good options for lenses from both Canon and Nikon, and other companies like Sigma, Tokina and others make compatible lenses. Sony and Pentax also both recently released the Alpha a100 and K100D respectively. While these cameras don't have a long track record, they do have image stabilization built in to the image sensor, meaning it is not necessary to buy IS lenses. If you are buying all new glass, this might be something to consider.
As for a lens, I would consider getting two; all options have a lens in the 18-55mm range, which is a reasonable range for indoor shooting. I had a 28-200 lens for my Canon -- it wasn't the best quality lens and was rather large, and also didn't have IS. I replaced it with a 70-300mm IS plus a 14-55mm (or something). The two together work very well for me. If you want to go with one lens, I am sure the 18-200 is fine, but I have to say, I really love the image stabilization and the extra 100mm tele. And 18mm seems like a wide angle, but there are thing you
can do at 14mm that 18mm is just not wide enough for. Two lenses is certainly more expensive, but you might want to see how the inexpensive 18-55 lens does for you and go for a nice telephoto zoom with image stabilization once your wallet recovers :-)
Tom
Nikon D80 (Lens Included) Reviews
Nikon D80 (Lens Included) Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
I just got this about 2 days ago ( used ) and I can't let go of it. I really like the shutter, it's so fast and the pixels is awesome. my lens is not 18-55, I change it to 55-200 DX ( not VR ).
- 4.0 out of 5
The long range focus on this camera looses the object requiring you to go to another setting. This has caused me to loose many photos.
- 4.0 out of 5
I've had consistently fine results with this camera and would highly recommend it to advanced amateurs and serious enthusiasts. The few bad shots have been entirely my fault.
- 5.0 out of 5
I think that the camera is great for people who are starting out but want to go all in and also great for experienced photographers who want a second camera.
- 4.0 out of 5
I love this camera, it takes gorgeous photos. But.. after only a year; the built in flash deos not click down anymore. Memory cards may or may not stay in the slot, I'm using a peice of athletic tape to make them stay. And the original lens has a loose piece of aperture in it. ( I've been using a different lens.) I have an extended warranty at Best Buy, but they say it could take 2 weeks to a month before i would get the camera back ! I can't live without my camera for that long ! I do really love this camera though. I would recommend it.
- 5.0 out of 5
After being rated "Camera of the year" I bought this camera after obsessing about wanting the best. I mostly take photos for fine art projects that stress creativity. Has a lot of manual settings that I love. I have taken some world class photos and took 6 classes with this camera. The professionals likeed the D80 for a camera with a ton of in camera editing features. The auto focus lens is a different story. I am waiting for the 2 ed Nikon lens to be repaired. Great clear glass but Auto focus broke on 2 lens so far. The auto focus motor breaks easy with no trauma.
- 4.0 out of 5
I purchased it to learn about photography as it has the top mounted led screen w/ a lot of info always right there. It has not let me down yet. Very nice pictures---wider and brighter than my PAS old Olympus (which still takes awesome shots at 4 mp). I just wish the lenses were cheaper.
- 5.0 out of 5
I just bought a canon D80 and I am very happy and contented with its total performance. The quality of pictures is excellent. It surpassed my expectations; for sure buying a D80 is worth the investment.
- 5.0 out of 5
I recently purchased the Nikon D80 and I am really glad I went to the DSLR line of cameras. This camera is really fast, has a ton of options, and really makes you feel good about photography. I recommend getting an instructional dvd if you buy this so you can use the camera to its full capabilities!
If you are on the fence in deciding on this DSLR, buy one. You will be glad that you did.
- 5.0 out of 5
Great camera! Excellent Shots, Perfect for Wedding, etc. Amazing 10.5mb captures
- 5.0 out of 5
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE NIKON D80 DSLR SYSTEM TO ALL PROS AND ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHERS:
I have been using the D80 camera now for about 5 months. Originally, I was trying to decide Between the D200 and D80, but do to budget, I chose the D80. I have absolutely no regrets with the D80 in any way, in fact, I am thankful I did not spend the extra money for the D200. The CCD chips are identical, but the only difference between the two is a slight shift in color profiles. The D80 color profile is actually better in the reds and greens than the D200. Besides that, the D200 is slightly bigger in size and has a few extra features. The D80 more than covered my photography needs. The Nikon D80 is action packed with more features and functions than even your average professional photographer would ever use, it just falls short of making you breakfast. The fact that it has so many options, it makes the D80 with the superb 18-135 zoom lens a very versatile DSLR system for any photographers shooting style,
I have been professionally shooting digitally now since 1995 and I am going to say that digital photography has come a long way. The CCD 10 megapixel chip in the D80 is amazing.
Since 1997 have been working with a professional digital camera back that produces digital files up to 150MB(RGB) or 200MB(CMYK) per image. That would translate to a 50 megapixel camera. After seeing results of a 10 megapixel picture file from the D80, I am impressed. I have taken RAW files from the D80 and magnified them a few hundred percent with out any sign of pixel break up, it looks like continuous film tone, now that's very impressive.
The CCD chip in general is with out a doubt Superior over the CMOS chip, its a fact. I would claim that it takes approximately up to 30% more megapixels for a CMOS chip to be comparable to CCD technology. Have you ever wondered why CMOS chip devices offer more megapixels for the same or less money. CCD chips are more difficult and more expensive to produce. The D80 CCD chip produces excellent results in the shadow details, very clean and un-noisy. The CMOS chip usually has more difficulties in this area.
There is something I need to clarify about image detail and sharpness. There have been some D80 users writing negative reviews of the image sharpness. Well, here are the facts in simple terms. If the picture seems a little soft in a high resolution image, then its a good sign of an excellent quality image file. The higher the resolution the softer the image will seem at a lower magnification.. Not many people have yet seen image files of this caliber. The more you attempt to sharpen an image the worse the image file gets for bigger enlargements. The first thing is this, if you are serious about best quality then you should not be applying any sharpening or any type of filters to an image in the camera. It should all be done in post production like photoshop. I also recommend using a RAW image file for best quality. In post production you can then apply any filter to enhance your image without damaging the original file data, because every time you apply irreversible photo filters to an image you are throwing away data image information. Its like trying to adjust your negatives before developing them, its a bad idea. If you take this so called soft image from the D80 and enlarge it a few hundred percent magnification on your computer screen you will appreciate Nikon's technology. The larger you blow up an image from the D80 the less sharpening(unsharp mask) is required, that's why Nikon limits in-camera sharpening. Have you ever noticed that the photoshop sharpening filter is called an UN-SHARP and not a SHARP mask, some other photo programs call it a sharpening tool so to not confuse people. In order for an image to appear sharper when its used or viewed at less than 100% actual pixel size, some of the image detail data has to be removed, because the more detail data that gets packed in a smaller area the softer the image looks. So in conclusion, a high quality image focused correctly that looks a little soft means its packed with tons of image detail. The Nikon D80 does just that...
Final words on the D80: If I was to make the purchase over again, I would still end up with the Nikon D8O with the excellent Nikkor 18-135 for being the Best DSLR system with in $1200.
Enjoy the D80...
Piero Foto
- 5.0 out of 5
Bought this baby 2 months back. I now use it more than my Canon 1D.
- 3.0 out of 5
I had a canon 20d and a nikon d50 for 2 years ,that pleased me . But wanted more pixels so came the 10 mega pixel D80 .Its image is amazing ,handling is ok ,editing is useful .Leaving competition way back in every area.Lens that came are the 18-135mm that are more than enough for most users .Lets be honest way need more.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have only had this camera for a couple of weeks but I have taken the most brilliant pictures ever with it. I have not tried its predecessor so I can only comment on this and not compare to the earlier models.
I have had nothing but clarity with the D80, and breath taking pictures when the flash is not in use. The only issue I ever have had with blur is in low light and the slower shutter speed (obviously). When mounted on a tripod this was no an issue.
It started up fast and was not bogged down by not having the highspeed SD card they recommend/insist you must have. I have no complaints, its been wonderful. The menu is easy to navigate and the shortcut buttons are great. If you are new to this series read the manual, its very easy and useful.
Enjoy!
- 2.0 out of 5
Really disapointed with the D80 it was slow to start and the images were blurred, Canono 5D was much better, but the replacement was no better, even the seller of the camera was very disapointed> Did'nt buy th 5D but very tempted keeping my D50, until the D200 is improved.
- 5.0 out of 5
Very happy with this camera. I upgraded from a D50 to this camera. Without boring everyone to death here is what made me jump to a D80. Faster Autofocus, Better Histogram for exposure .. all channels not just the red channel, More pixels to play with, Lower ISO (100 for D80 and 200 for D50)for clearer shots, 3fps and also a wonderful grid in the viewfinder that you can turn on or off to sake sure you are shooting a vertical as a vertical instead of guessing
