I don't know about "pop up," because you can't really attach a diffuser to the flash so that it will pop up with the flash. But what worked best for me when I shot the SP was to take a white plastic film canister and cutting a slot in it. Slip it over the flash and you're good to go.

You could reset the camera. Check with Olympus for a firmware update. Use prefocusing as a habit. Follow the rule of thirds. This is where you draw a tic tac toe grid in your head and where two lines intersect, there's where your subject goes (after you prefocus).

Just about any camera store or Best Buy type store. Amazon.com is great because of it's selection and free supersaver shipping.

The remote you're lookin for is the WR-J100 wireless remote control. Take back the Promaster IR. Promaster isn't that great anyway. your basic generic brand.

hello Doreen

down load one here

olympusamerica.com/cpg_sect... 

Olympus doesn't release filter sizes for this lens/ camera because they don't recommend filter use. With that said, there are filters available (made by other companies than Olympus) and any camera shop can probably measure the mm for you.

You cannot add filters to the existing lens of the camera and there is probably no threads for you to measure.



However, if you buy the adapter set from <a href="cgi.ebay.com.au/UV-%2F-Pola...  this site </a>, you will be able to attach 52mm polarizing filters.

You need a Type H xD card to record longer than 15 seconds.

Are you looking at those because of budgetary reasons? Because for a little more, you could probably pick up a nice XTi Canon which would work nicely and give you much more flexibility. Better quality too.

Well, if you can't afford the XTi, the next best thing may be the Canon S5is ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). And I used to own a Olympus SP550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and found it to be quite capable for that price.

Try resetting the camera. Also, check to see if the IS system is on. This may be causing it to lose audio as you cannot use the IS system in movie mode if you're recording audio with your video. You also can't optically zoom while recording either. Turn it off in the menu settings.

We're happy to help, Lisa. Good luck.

Where can I see IS system in the Menu? If I try to use the video, there is no sound.

Thanks.

hello jody

you can download a manual at this link

olympus.co.jp/en/support/im... 

I recommend you read up on sports photography. There are many photo sites on the web which speak about how to get the best results.

You can try higher ISOs, but the problem is that you'll also run into more noise the higher you get. Flash is a bad idea simply because it would interfere with the game. Manual mode is good, but you can experiment with aperture priority and shutter priority options. Or the Sports presets. Also, prefocusing and panning with the action will help you combat the dreaded shutter lag that happens with point and shoot cameras. You should also consider a monopod which will help combat camera shake, especially at the extreme ends of the focal length.



In the end, you need to use the lowest ISO you can get away with.



Here's a few other tips:



When taking digital photographs at a basketball game, hanging out behind the backboard is a great place for getting good shots. Rebounds, scoring, fights over the ball -- it all happens under the boards. Here are some other good locations for shooting hoops:



* Take to the bleachers. Take some shots from up in the bleachers with a telephoto prefocused on the rim. This is a good location for getting the rebounder pulling the ball off the rim and a good look at the player's face. Try to find a spot a little higher than the rim. This generally calls for a longer zoom lens setting, about 100mm to 135mm for a digital camera.

* Head for the sidelines. Shoot along the sideline with a longer zoom setting to get a shot of a ball handler bringing the ball up the court. From this position, look for a shot of the coach yelling instructions to the players and pivot to grab some crowd intensity shots. Sometimes, you can catch a tense moment as the ball is thrown back into play.

* Don't forget halftime and timeouts. Now's the time to look for shots of the coach talking strategy. A wide-angle lens gets you in close when possible (easy for high school ball or younger, but you probably won't be able to get that close for college or the pros).

I don't think so. I mean, you can't beat the performance of a good SLR, but I've used this camera for sports photography. Works great. You have some presets there that you can take advantage of. SPORTS mode and AVAILABLE Light. It also has a great burst mode that takes up to 15fps (only at about 1.5 mp though). What you'll need to do is really practice with prefocusing and panning with the action. I'd also get a good solid Monopod. With these and the tips above, you should be able to get some great shots with practice.

At this URL you can click on a button to download the manual OR click on the other button to purchase a paper copy by mail.



olympusamerica.com/cpg_sect...  Wishes, Larry

Vicki,



I had an older version of this camera (a S2 IS), and it worked well on action shots if the light was good. This camera has a higher ISO setting than my old one, but you still might find it waning in low light situations (like a gym or auditorium). I would recommend spending the money on a dSLR camera and a wide aperture lens (f/2.8 or wider). This may cost more, but you'll find the functionality a lot better.



If you don't want to spend the extra cash but still want a decent working extended zoom camera, I would go with something like the Olympus 550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). It has an 18x optical zoom, dual image stabilization (sensor and digital image shift), and an amazing ISO range from 50-5000. While the ISO 5000 shots will have more "graininess" in them, it will work a lot better in low light situations. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Both answers were helpful. Thank you for responding.

The lens size ranges from 4.7-84.2mm when it zooms, with the possibility to attach 14 different lenses onto the camera other than the native lens that it comes with. Since this isn't an SLR, you can't take off the lens and replace it. The lens retracts as well, so it "goes into" the camera when pictures are not being taken, which allows you to put a protective cover over the lens when its not being used. Also if you wanted to put a protective lens on it when its being used, you would need a barrel so that the original lens could still zoom in and out. I don't know if I fully answered your question, but if I didn't, feel free to clarify. Hope this helps.

These days, ANY camera can take panoramas if you use something like PhotoShop that has a panoramic stitcher. The 500UZ does have panoramic guides you can turn on in the setup menu which will allow you to frame the multiple shots you will need to take in order to put together your panorama.



And Photoshop's stitcher is so good you'll think you took one shot!

Hey thanks...you make a lot of sense...and I actually purchased the G9 today.



Thanks again.

Thanks again Larry. I've never used this site - however I believe I awarded you points.

how do you set up the panorama on the sp-55ouz?

yea ive looked at my menu but it doesnt help out and ive tried to do it but none of the place guides show up on the screen?

First thing I'd recommend is downloading and installing the firmware update. ( olympusamerica.com/cpg_sect...  ) Once that's done, reset the camera.



Then, the following:



Set the mode dial to P.

Press m to display the top menu.

Select [CAMERA MENU] and press o.

Then Select Panorama.



Panorama shooting lets you create a panoramic picture, using the OLYMPUS Master software from

the provided CD-ROM. An Olympus xD-Picture Card is required for panorama shooting.



Use the arrow pad to specify at which edge you want to connect the pictures, and then compose

your shots so that the edges of the pictures overlap. The part of the previous picture that will be

combined will not remain in the frame. Remember the frame displayed on the monitor as a rough

indication, then compose the shot so that the edges of the previous picture in the frame overlap with

the next shot.



• Press o to exit panorama shooting.



• Panorama shooting is possible for up to 10 pictures. A warning mark g is displayed after 10

pictures are taken.

Some functions cannot be set in certain shooting modes. For more details, refer to the table on page 72 of the manual which shows that Panorama can only be set in Program mode. In SCN mode, in order to produce specialized effects, some scenes limit control of certain

functions, Panorama is one of them (pg. 74). So try turning the control wheel to "P" and then try to access it.

Time to contact Olympus, then.

Cindy,



I went through the specifications ( fujifilm.com/products/digit...  ) for the Fuji S8000fd ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and could not find anything about the sepia mode. I would say that it does not have it. You can purchase software that can convert color photos into sepia mode though. I use PaintShopPro ( corel.com/servlet/Satellite...  ) by Corel for that function. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

Cindy,



If a camera feels comfortable in your hands, you're going to take better pictures. A photographer has to feel good about their equipment. Good luck and happy shooting.



Andrew

First thing I would do is reset the camera. This is a fairly easy procedure which involves either going into your setup menu and choosing "reset," holding down the menu key for 5 seconds, or, removing the batteries for a few minutes. It may be that the firmware loading got corrupted and the camera just needs to be "rebooted," which is something that turning it on/off won't accomplish. But after which, you should have the camera reset to factory default settings.



Another tip is to go to Olympus's website and look for firmware updates. I believe there is one. Download and install them.

Frankly, the macro on this camera isn't that thrilling. Compare it with other options at this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ). It takes pictures with cameras and you can compare them side by side.



There are much better options available to you that are more affordable. Like the Canon S5IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ), SONY H9 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ), and my personal fave the Olympus SP550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ).

Thank you. I have looked at and decided on the Sony H7. Apprciated the input

found the Sony DSC H-9 really good on macro settings..in full light,outdoors..had other problems,mostly assoc. with needing an upgrade to a dslr camera,but my macro has got rave reviews,on auto,no less....

The IS is the same on both cameras. I don't understand why they'd be different. Did you take the exact same pictures with each? Also, the better the LCD, the more detail you'll see. It's possible that the smaller LCD screen of the SD850IS just makes the pictures look better because it's squeezed into a smaller space. The only way to tell is to bring your own memory card, put it into the cameras, take some pictures, and bring the memory card home with you to upload the pictures to your camera. Something's wrong if the SD870IS is blurring pictures, unless the user was being unfair and shaking one more than the other...



Both cameras are awesome. In fact, the only real difference is the wide-angle lens of the SD870IS, which I find to be the real plus.

Thanks - I understand what you are both saying. We currently own an Olympus C3040 and love the images that we get with it. A few years back, we tried to go smaller with a C7000 and were so disappointed in the quality of the images. It was/is very inconsistent. Having said that, we are extremely leary of purchasing another 'pocket-sized' camera.

As far as ultracompact cameras go, I think the SD850 and SD870 are near as good as it gets. But James is right, you can never match with an ultracompact the feature and quality you get from a fullsize. It's the biggest compromise you make with cameras these days.

Most cameras have a sports mode or even a kids mode for taking shots in the heat of the moment. And also burst modes can help as well. But in the end, Shutter delay is a way of life in digital cameras. But up until recently, for compact point and shoots, it was more cost prohibitive to solve it. The good news is that according to recent news articles, many camera companies will be incorporating the CCD chips they use in their SLR lines (which give no shutter lag) into their point and shoot cameras. So look for it within the next few years.



Meanwhile, no matter what camera you choose - there are tips to speed up your performance and catch the moment:



1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.



2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.



3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.



4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.



5. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.



6. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.



7. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.



I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Sound good. Let us know how it fares. BTW - If you're happy with the answer you received, you can simply click on "Mark for best answer" bubble and it will close out the question. Thanks for posting it and Good luck!

I am currently shooting the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Happy to give it! Let us know how your trip goes!

Hello GraceAnn, The fugi looks like a good choice . I think you are looking at the image stabilization mode which is a nice feature. You should be getting better results with your camera than you are. Since you have some controlled conditions try using a tripod ,you may be pleased with your results. Even with a camera with image stabilization you can't go wrong with a tripod ,and you have greater control of your subject composition.

When it comes to low light....film cameras are still on top. I have a 25 yr old Sigma 135 f 1.8 tele I use on a screw mt Mamiya....and I get great shots of music in low lit clubs.



However...in your case....a bounced or diffused flash would be the best bet. You can get Halogen work lights with a clamp 300 w or more pretty cheap. That can get you light,highlights

Interesting. The 500UZ does have a lag, but I haven't found it to be that slow - but I tend to prefocus (pressing the shutter halfway), which causes it to be much faster. You are correct that just snapping it, the lag can be rather long. 1.520 - 1.110 sec. But when you prefocus, it's darn near instant at .090 sec.



Meanwhile, here's some tips to get faster performance in your camera.



1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.



2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.



3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.



4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.



5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.



6. Go with a shallow depth of field.



7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.



8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.



9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.





Shutter delay is a way of life in digital cameras. But the good news is that the delay is lessening as the technology matures. The good news is that according to recent news articles, many camera companies will be incorporating the CCD chips they use in their SLR lines (which give no shutter lag) into their point and shoot cameras. So look for it within the next few years.

my 500UZ takes awful night time pictures in the nighttime mode... I can never get a decent shot at nighttime, they never turn out. My camera takes forever to take it and then it says it is busy and then the picture finally appears and it is awful.

Well, there's the editor's rating, and then there's user voting. User voting (letter grade) can get a bit skewed early on if there's a negative review and it takes a few days for it to work itself out. Example, a few weeks ago, the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) had three reviews and was listed as a D-. A few days later, more people had voted and it's now up to a solid B+ (which as an owner, I believe is a more accurate grade).



So, in the absence of a wider sample, I'd tend to default to the editor's star rating unless I have personal experience with the camera. IMHO, of course.



That's about right. It has to do with resolution settings. These are at full rez. You can increase that by lowering the rez, but you end up with a video that's only suitable to attach to email.

I don't think you can. It may be a firmware thing. My opinion though is if video is your concern, you're better off getting a video camera that happens to shoot stills as well. There are many that have up to 6MP these days. And you don't get the time limitation (other than the size of your recording medium).

A cheap Sony? Wow. LOL. Thanks for the heads up, Matt. However, the downside to the Sony is the Memory Stick. You can only use it with Sony products (except you can plug it into a usb memory card reader for any PC). That's what really bugs me. Sony makes fine products - some of the best in the industry - but thanks to their obsession with cornering their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, you end up paying more and doing less with it. IMHO.



But the W80 is a good camera.

You can change your video setting to 320x240 (I think that's what the resolution ends up being). Or from 60fps to 30fps. Those should all increase the amount of time you can get at any set memory. Basically, each second takes up less MB on your memory card. Like James said, though, many cameras have actual TIME limits, regardless of what quality setting your video is at. It'll be in your manual, or just set your video setting to the bare minimum and see what the camera gives you for recording :)



I don't blame you for not wanting Sony. Trust me, it was hard to recommend the W80, but I'm fair when it matters ;) In terms of not being able to use your memory stick for anything else...... well, I only use my memory stick for my camera, so I don't know what the fuss is all about, hehe. And with memory cards becoming so cheap these days (yes, even the Sony Duo and Pro Duo cards!) it's becoming more of a non-issue.

I've been using Olympus for awhile now and have zero card errors with the xD I have for it. Any card can suffer an error, Unavailable. I don't think that's really an issue.

Well like I said, I've been using the same xD for nearly a year in heavy use. No errors so far. Workin' just fine. But sooner or later even the best will fail.

Well, I read through your manual, unavailable. On page 137 of your manual, it states a 1GB card can hold 14.9 minutes of video at 640x480 and 29.3 minutes at 320x240. If you are using an xD card with a model number containing an "M", you'll want to reformat your card if you take a lot of pictures, as that can reduce recording time.



Here's the link; hopefully it works: fujifilm.com/products/digit... 

Outstanding answer, Matt.



Unavail - Matt answers the question. If your memory card is going double duty, obviously the recording time is reduced.

Guess maybe theyre different cameras and no one new why the 1 gig on different cam gives more recording time

I agree with Matt. It also largely depends on what format and codec it encodes in.

The answer actually lies in the setting that you choose to record the movie clips.



F20 allows you to take movie clips at only 2 settings, either 640x480 @30fps or 320x240 @30fps whereas Nikon L11 lets you do it at 640x480 @ 30fps, 320x240 @ 30fps, 320x240 @15 fps and 160x120 @15fps.



Both Matt and James have rightly pointed out that the recording time increases as the resolution decreases from 640x480 to 320x240 and I would expect it to increase further if the resolution goes down to 160x120 which Fuji F20 can't do.



Similarly, the fps ( frame per second) would affect the recording time. At 15 fps, the 1 gb card would record more movie clips than at 30 fps and again Fuji F20 has no such option.



So looking from this point of view, you probably are right that Nikon L11 can record longer hours of movie clips than Fuji F20 and the difference lies in the fact that Nikon L11 can take movie clips at much lower resolution and fps.

Practically all three have identical specs. So for me, I would go with the Olympus. They have been in business a long time. I owned one of their 35mm half-frame cameras, about 1972. It was as smooth as glass, with great ergonomic design. That same classy design seems to be apparent from the photos of these three, although there is nothing like being able to handle all three at a store. Olympus used to make superb microscopes; perhaps they still do.



Not to knock Panasonic and Fuji, but Panasonic is a multi-faceted electronics company that recently got into cameras; Fuji used to specialize in film more than cameras.

I have had a number of Olympus cameras over the years. They have all been solid performers and solidily built. I now have the SP 550 UZ again it is well built. There is a bit of a learning curve but that is true of any thing. I was a bit shocked at how well the zoom worked even hand held using image stabilization of course. I believe you will be easily able to meet your needs with the 550 UZ. I can't speak for the other companies and their products which I am sure are good. I am relying on my past experiences with Olympus.

The remote available for the SP550UZ is this:



Remote Cable Release (RM-UC1)

Item: #260237-410



The remote cable release RM-UC1 for the SP-510 UZ\SP-550 UZ\E-410\E-510 allows the user to take pictures over long exposures without shaking the camera. Additionally, it offers the possibility of locking the release button for bulb exposure. The RM-UC1 connects to the camera's USB connector.



I don't think it's 25-50 feet though. That's a stretch. Olympus does have a IR remote, but I would think that if it did work with the SP550UZ, they'd mention it. But you could try it.

Carl, I think this camera would work fine for your wife. It has great point and shoot features and presets that make it easy to simply pull it out and capture the moment. 7.1 MP is great. Movie mode with sound. Just caution her to avoid the "digital zoom," as that is simply blowing up the optical image and thereby distorting it. Just marketing.



Pick up a couple of good SD cards for her as well.



And for you, I'd like to recommend the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Hi Mickey,

Let me ask you a few things: do you want something with lots of manual control and options, or would you rather just point and shoot? For $300, you can get a pretty advanced camera, but if it has lots of manual options that you wouldn't use, you can probably spend a lot less than that and still get a very good camera.



Also, what kind of zoom do you think you'll need?

Mickey, here are some tips to reducing blurry pictures when shooting movement:



1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.



2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.



3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.



4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.



5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.



6. Go with a shallow depth of field.



7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.



8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.



9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.





As for cameras, for a tad over your pricetag there's the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Everything James said about reducing blurry photos is totally right. Print that post and keep it in your wallet. =)



As far as choosing a camera, how about something like the Canon SD800 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  )? It's hugely popular and is a really nice ultracompact with a wide angle lens, which would work in a variety of settings. Also has nice low light performance, as well as Image Stabilization, which is designed to help prevent photos ruined by blur due to camera shake. Also has movie mode with sound.



As far as stopping blur with moving subjects, that will depend more on the camera settings than anything else. You can experiment with the various Scene modes to see what kind of results you get. The Scene modes do things like use faster or slower shutter speeds, which will result in either a blurred or a "frozen" look if the subject is moving. Image stabilization, and James' tips above, won't freeze a moving subject, but will prevent blurry photos if camera shake is the problem.

If I can add another model in the mix? I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



But it's super macro mode is outstanding and points directly to what you're looking for. Great for REALLY close up shots.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I tried the Olympus SP-550UZ for a month and took it back. I also wanted a camera with a fast shutter speed and long zoom for sports. IT took so long to focus and take the picture that I'd lose the shot. With the burst mode on the pictures all looked the same. I liked some features. When I zoomed all the way out it would lighten the picture which was good, otherwise they ended up too dark to see. If I could have figured out how to turn off the auto focus and still take a good picture I would have kept the camera. This was my first digital and the book didn't explain things clear enough for me.

Check out imaging-resource.com/MFR1.HTM  for very detailed reports on various cameras.



Nikon's low-cost D40 lists at $599; that's pretty affordable.

Hi, I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for an answer? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on digitalcamera-hq.com  so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!

Not to mention that most are now incorporating optical image stabilization. And the next generation will have the SLR CCD Chip which promises to do away with shutter lag completely.

I suggest the Canon. In my opinion, it's a good idea to steer clear of SONY, as they tend to force their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, their own spin on formatting, and a host of others which the Canon won't do. And as you know, Canon relies on SD cards, which are pretty much the standard in point and shoot for memory cards. This means you can use any you happen to currently have and they are much cheaper than memory sticks. You can also use them in other technologies like PDAs, DMPs, and even mp3 players, whereas that memory stick is only going to be used in another SONY.



Now that my prejudices are out of the way .... for comparison, you may want to check out this resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ). It takes pictures with each and you can compare them side by side.



I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



Now some will argue that the 15fps burst mode only allows for about 1.2 mp. I think it's better than that. But even so, it will do for snapshots no larger than 4x6, and you still get that action shot. For full res, it does have a 3 fps burst mode as well.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Finally, when trying to make a final call, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.

Well, face detection is the latest buzz word. I'm sure it's a great feature, much like image stabilization before it. But required? Not really. I agree with you that the extra 2mp isn't really crucial either, but it's nice to have when you do actually get a photo you want to enlarge.



As for image quality,speed and performance, I'd imagine they're both comparable - although I think the IS is a feature that gives the 850 a slight edge. Have you been to Image Resource's "comparometer?" ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ) it's very helpful when weighing the quality & performance of two cameras.

Please stop bashing Sony because you can't afford one. I'm sick of people saying "Get Canon, they specialize in Camera's not general electronics like Sony." First of all, Sony uses Carl Zeiss lens (German) and one of the best lens producers on Earth. Digital Camera's are "Digital" / electronic - hence the reason Sony produces them. If you are talking about FILM camera's or High-ends then I'll agree Canon & Nikon are great.

Well, there's the editor's rating, and then there's user voting. User voting (letter grade) can get a bit skewed early on if there's a negative review and it takes a few days for it to work itself out. Example, a few weeks ago, the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) had three reviews and was listed as a D-. A few days later, more people had voted and it's now up to a solid B+ (which as an owner, I believe is a more accurate grade).



So, in the absence of a wider sample, I'd tend to default to the editor's star rating unless I have personal experience with the camera. IMHO, of course.

Do yourself a favor. Don't. Digital zoom is a marketing ploy to get you to believe you have more zoom than you actually do. Digital zoom is accomplished not really by "zooming" but by blowing up the image digitally once you reach the end of the optical focal range. The result is usually exaggerated camera shake, pixelated and unsharp images, and a host of other disappointments.



Better to stick with the optical zoom and then, if you want to zoom in further - do it in photoshop.



But the camera should just automatically move on to digital once you reach the optical end of the focal range.

I have the camera in question. Digital zoom is a camera menu item. It is not avaliable in all shooting modes such as RAW. It is avaliable in when shooting jpeg's. Try setting the mode dial to P enter the menu go down to the bottom you will see Fine Zoom the next after that is Digital Zoom you can toggle it off or on. I works great I was blown away how well it actually worked even handheld. Hope this helps.

Well, you can't go wrong with the response of a digital SLR. No shutter lag, plenty of lens options (in both focal length and fstop speed), and great burst mode speeds for taking multiple shots. And RAW photo support for uncompressed photographs.



I like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi for a good first DSLR. Nice 20(something)-220 zoom.



However, if you want an all in one prosumer solution, I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.





I really like the panorama guides. It allows me to line them up perfectly when shooting multiple exposures. Then I can stitch them together seamlessly with Adobe's new Photoshop CS3.

I reckon it's so the people shooting don't live their lives through the viewfinder, but can watch and shoot at the same time. But you're preaching to the choir, my friend.



However, the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) has a digital viewfinder. Works pretty well.7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Actually, there are now some models that have an adjustable angle LCD monitor. So that's an attempt to address the outdoor issue.

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Well, you don't really need to change lenses if you get a good 18-200 zoom (or there abouts). If that is your primary lens, then the XTi would make for a solid upgrade. But I state with a caviat that it may be too beefy for you if you aren't planning on getting into digital photography as more than a hobby.



But if you're looking for a beefier point and shoot, have you looked Olympus' way? I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.



The Canon G7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) is the heir apparent to your G7. It'll be familiar ground so the adjustments would be minor and the learning curve not so steep.

Are you talking about cropping it and creating a new picture? Some cameras have this feature.



The SD600 does come with some editing features, sure. But the SD1000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) has replaced it.



I know the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) does just that, as well as several other photo editing features.

Hi, I noticed that you haven't marked any replies as the "best answer." Are you still looking for an answer? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on digitalcamera-hq.com  so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!

Hey,

I suppose I'd ask you to define "super zoom" before I'd answer. =) There are just a few popping into my head when I think of big zooms on little cameras, but my idea of a big zoom is really anything above 5x on a compact. What zoom are you thinking of?

I have the Canon Powershot S3 IS and love what it can do! It has 12Xzoom and macro, too!

Suzaloo, I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Fujifilm Finepix F40fd, portable, fast and easy. Great for outdoors, indoors and low light. Nice LCD too.

What do you mean by effective? Slow? Not very sharp? Effective can mean a wide variety of things. Also, remember that the larger the zoom range, the greater camera shake can come into play.



I'd also like to toss another camera in the mix for you to consider. I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Not necessarily. It just means that one has a closer macro end of the focal range than the other. Are you shooting with the macro setting?

The Fujifilm S700 from what I have heard and is very nice, especially for its price. I got the chance to try i out in the store and the grip size is very nice, but the rest of the camera is still kept pretty compact. The large LCD was crisp and clear and worked great for viewing and taking photos. The new S5 IS should be a very nice camera. It had a hot-shoe attachment so you can later buy one of Canons external flashes if you wish to. The previous S3 IS was one of the best selling zoom cameras out there and had hundreds of good resalts from happy customers. I expect the S5 IS to follow in the same footsteps. The S5 would probably do you better than the Fuji S700 but it would be alright and if you would want to go for the less cost it would be you choice. Also the newish Panasonic FZ8 is very nice. For price, it is in between the Canon S5 IS and the Fuji S700. It has a vary effective Image stabilization that works well to help you get clear crisp shots when you are shooting at full zoom, or just in low light. All of these would probably give you resalts almost as good as you A630. And they would all do you pretty good. It is probably true for the most part that the more it costs the better it is, but they would all do you well. It depends how much you want to spend. Hope this is helpful, not more confusing. - Josh

I went to the store today and tested the Canon S3, I brought along my SD card so I could have photos in hand for viewing. Also tested the Fuji S700. Both cameras are very easy to use. But am I asking too much for a high zoom camera to produce crisp pictures at full zoom??? Both cameras photos seemed grainy at full zoom, to me. Granted I was in store lighting, which is terrible to start with. I was shooting in Auto Mode. Am I expecting too much?

Maybe a different mode, I would of gotten the results I'm striving for? Anyone have any advice or first hand experience?

About the 15 fps, Is that not usable only in a low MP mode? In full quality mode it doesn't go nearly as fast.

I love my S3 with 12Xzoom and the quality and clarity of my pix taken at the largest size are just awsome!!

The downside is that you'll end up with monaural sound on most. And most use motion JPEG as the codec. Not the best from where I'm sitting. One has to remember that they are digital still cameras first and foremost. Video is tacked on almost as an afterthought. You will still have to be held to the quality of your camera lens and CCD which isn't going to be as good as your miniDV. Another downside is that most will disable the optical zoom while shooting video - some only do it when you're shooting with sound - it just depends on the model.



I've gotten pretty good results with the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Probably not. This is a common downside of shooting video with a digital still camera, it disables the zoom (which is stupid, if you ask me). The Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) only disables the optical zoom if you're shooting with sound. But if silent, you can zoom away.



For my money, if you want video, use a video cam.

And no sacrificing audio? Usually it's one of the other.

Well, the thing about User voting (letter grade) is that it can get a bit skewed early on if there's a negative review and it takes a few days for it to work itself out. Example, a few weeks ago, the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) had three reviews and was listed as a D-. A few days later, more people had voted and it's now up to a solid B (which as an owner, I believe is a more accurate grade).



Letter ratings can get skewed and as a result, you get this spread between models that are essentially the same. So, in the absence of a wider sample, I'd tend to default to the editor's star rating unless I have personal experience with the camera. IMHO, of course.



as for the wireless bonus, it largely depends on if you use it or not. That was the attractiveness of the EasyShare One when it came out a few years ago. I ended up hardly ever using it.

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

When I compare two different cameras, I like to head over to Imaging Resource ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ), which uses similar photographs shot for comparison. Now, they don't have either of these models just yet, but they have previous models which you can gather a baseline to see where designs are going.



On with it, I'd have to give the edge to the Sony H line over the Lumix FZ line based on that.



HOWEVER, I don't like Sony's reliance on proprietary technologies like the memory stick. They are more expensive, slower, and you can only use them in Sony products. As such, you are forced into their technological revenue stream, rather than using what's best regardless.



Both are decently rated here. But were it up to me, I'd go with the Lumix because the quality difference isn't that dramatic to force me into the dead end of SONY's proprietary technology.



But allow me to toss another camera into the mix. I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

the above seems to be bit old, but the camers are still available nevertheless from some merchants. Please vist DPREVIEW.COM for in depth reviews of all cameras. They do a fantastic job of evaluating the review top cameras. If I were you, would go with Panasonic FZ7 or now FZ8 as it is the better of Sony's H5 or recent H7/H9 models. Pany can shoot in RAW, has better lens resolution. So if you dont like the Venus III processing your images, you can shoot in RAW in Pany an works will with a HSHC SD (Sandisk, Ultra/Extreme) cards, Pany also has better build quality and comes with lens hood

What you have experienced is exactly what is stated by Pemaraal Adapter Company :

" The CLA-10 is a rigid design and as such will show severe vignetting at the lower zoom range when using filters ....."



You probably have to buy Pemaraal telescopic adapter if you want to attach the UV filter to your 550UZ.



Pemaraal telescopic adapter can be found at <a href="pemaraal.com/index.php?page...  location</a> and there are some useful information at the location besides UV filter.

Though I couldn't find those exact models to compare over there, this site ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ) compares digital shots from two different cameras and from previous models, I have to say that the Canon Powershot line has the better color, sharpness, and lens zoom capability (particularly at close range).



I'd vote for the SD750.

The Kodak V610 also has 10x optical zoom, and has some interesting Bluetooth features...I THINK it also zooms during video. its' range with optical AND digital is 38 to 380mm total 40x zoom...not as wide angle but longer zoom (I personally prefer wide angle)

It is a point and shoot with 23 scene modes....check it out on the Kodak.com site and give us your opinion...

So I ended up getting a totally different camera.... the sony cyber shot t-100.....it has 5x zoom and more manual setting than the panasonic. I hope I dont regret spending more instead of getting the huge zoom from the TZ3 at a cheaper price. Thanks for all your help guys.

Well, first I'd pay attention to the owner performance letter grade it gets - which is a solid "D." Simply put, a vast number of owners hate the camera. At best, it's feedback is mixed. Secondly, the camera is ranked * 23rd of 44 in 5 Megapixel (#1 is Canon A460), * 16th of 24 in Fuji (#1 is Fuji S700), * 50th of 72 in Point and Shoot (#1 is Fuji S700).



I suspect this has to do largely with the shutter lag, but there are much better options out there. If you don't mind a larger, midrange camera, I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents. This is really good for the landscapes you're planning on shooting.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Mickey, I'm sorry to hear that. Have you talked to Fuji about repair under warranty? Also, if the warranty is expired and you paid via credit card, you may have automatic extended warranty protection through the credit card company.



Worth checking out. I'd also check on service advisories on your camera to see if there's a recall for repair. If so, they'll repair it for free regardless of warranty.

I suggest the Canon. In my opinion, it's a good idea to steer clear of SONY, as they tend to force their customers into proprietary technologies such as the memory stick, their own spin on formatting, and a host of others which the Canon won't do. Canon relies on SD cards, which are pretty much the standard in point and shoot for memory cards. This means you can use any you happen to currently have and they are much cheaper than memory sticks. You can also use them in other technologies like PDAs, DMPs, and even mp3 players, whereas that memory stick is only going to be used in another SONY.



Additionally, again IMHO, SONY is an electronics company. Canon makes cameras. That's all I really need to know. Stick with the company with focus.



I'll also toss another model into the ring if you don't mind. I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.



Two other points. I have found a great website ( imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP...  ) for comparing camera models. Input both models and compare identical photos taken with each.



But in the end, it may just come down to going down to the camera store and holding both of them. Getting a feel for how they fit in your hand. In the end, you can read all the reviews and solicit all the opinions you want, but the bottom line comes when you hold it, frame it, even shoot with it. That'll pretty much tell the tale. And many camera stores have a rental program.

I had the Canon digital Rebel XT and loved it and sold it to buy the the Olympus SP-550 UZ and after taking about 800 pictures with it, I found the time between shots to be slow and the picture quality to be rather soft. Also the 15fps brings the 7.1 meg down to around 1.5, just to let you know. I sold it and will buy the Canon S5 when it comes out. Stick with Canon, you won't regret it.

Actually, Marco, that's not entirely accurate. The FPS MP size varies depending on the size of the available memory. So large card larger MP size. I have some great shots that I took on burst which are easily close to the max 7.1 size. It all depends on your available memory space.



But I do agree with you on the shutter lag, however. That's why when I need to get a shot, I rely on the burst mode and with experience, you can anticipate a good shot and get it.



The downside about the teleconverter, Ali, is that you will lose some light (about a stop) and picture clarity in the process, which is what you are fighting against with a soft photo. It's just the nature of the beast.



I'm thinking for you the Canon Digital Rebel XTi may indeed be the way to go. Granted, it's committing to an SLR format, but for what you get and the speed of the shutter, it's a truly superior option.

Concerning the S5; has anyone seen a published (or from experience or on-line reviews) "shot to shot" time (not burst mode)?



Thanks.

Sean, I'm getting the Canon S5 instead of the Sony H9 for several reasons, many of which mentioned here already. What hasn't been mentioned is that the S5 has time-lapse photography and the H9 does not. That could be a lot of fun for you and your kids.



On the other hand, as to video capability, the H9 outputs HD video and the S5 doesn't -- but I think the S5 lets you make longer movies.



Canon S5 v. Sony H7 and Sony H9 ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar...  )

Zeniu, good comprehensive review. Have you posted that?

The think I really don't like about SONY is that they are obsessed with locking their customer base into proprietary technologies. And the Memory Stick is a perfect example of it. All things being equal between the H9 and a comparable camera, I'd go with another camera just because of that, personally.

Well, I am definitely not an expert, but I have found in reading reviews that Canon is the way to go. Also, with a Sony I'm pretty sure you can only use Sony mem. cards etc. It's nice not to be tied down to one brand. I've seen the canon s3 in action...very good camera.

I have learned a bad thing about the S5 that contradicts what they say in their press releases, and I'm going to reverse my decision about buying the S5 because of it (even though I need that extra half-inch of LCD pretty badly). Please indulge me because I'll be making this identical post in three or four relevant threads on this site. I wrote directly to Canon to ask about the confusion regarding whether the S5 still has the time-lapse photography option. Here is their response, verbatim, with ▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪ for redacted info:"

Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 14:39:55 -0400

From: Canon Support - PowerShot <ps@cits.canon.com>

To: "Lisa S." <▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪>

Reply-to: Canon Support - PowerShot <ps@cits.canon.com>





Dear Lisa S.:



Thank you for writing to us. We value you as a Canon customer and appreciate the opportunity to assist you. ▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪▪



I am sorry to say that the S5 IS does not have a Intervalometer in it the only way it will function like this is with the Self Timer function in the camera described on page 29 in the Advanced Camera User Guide and page 18 of the Basic User Guide. The limitations of this is that it will only delay up to 30 seconds and take from 1 - 10 Shots.



Instead with the S3 IS Intervalometer it will delay from 1 minute to 60 minutes and 2 - 100 Shoots this is described on Page 29 and 84 in the Advanced Camera User Guide.



Please let us know if we can be of any further assistance with your

PowerShot S3 IS.



Thank you for choosing Canon.



Sincerely,



Joshua

Technical Support Representative"

So, although many side-by-side comparisons will show the S5 and S3 both having timelapse ability, it's just not true in the practical sense of, say, watching a flower unfold over several hours.

Thank you, Kik. Yes, I'm the one who's peering through her granny glasses to try to see the LCD. :) On the hand thing, I had to smile because I am a woman with very large hands, and I thought the S5's larger size might be more comfortable! The S3 is just a tiny bit cramped for me -- not much, certainly I can live with it. Thanks for the answer and the encouragement.

Hi James D.



First of all, thanks, I just wanted to share my first hand experience with this camera.

Chris,



To assess hot pixels you have to take some shots of a uniform background (ie: white or gray wall) in a uniform lighting condition, under various settings of the camera, usually varying the ISO settings. View the pictures on your computer monitor, in full resolution, and zooming in also helps. Scroll the picture around and inspect it carefully. A hot pixel will stand out from the rest of the surrounding pixels by being of much greater intensity usually bright blue, purple, or green. Sometimes the pixels can be red as well. A cold pixel on the other hand will look like a completely black dot - also different than all the other surrounding pixels. The bad pixel should scroll with the rest of the picture on your monitor, otherwise the bad pixel you're looking at is on your monitor, and not the camera's ccd. In my case the bad pixel was very visible at ISO 80, and not so much in the higher ISO settings because those produced too much noise that blended with the bad pixel.

In terms of all ccd sensors having the same noise levels, the answer is: All ccd sensors have different noise levels. Even when you compare identical in spec ccd's from the same camera model you'll find that they produce slightly different results. It is almost impossible and surely not justifiable financially in the manufacturing process to achieve identical signal to noise ratio on all ccd chips. Cameras vary sample to sample, and batch to batch - just like cars, and yes occasionally you can get a lemon.

I suggest sony. Just for the better pictures, preformance and better design. Try the H7 - its more stable, withouth the rotating screen.

I was amazed from sony quality, and selected after testing. Good Luck

I would keep them in a similar category.

And on the other hand, this site has given a A rating for H7 and A- rating for S5.

Hello!



I am looking for a the best digital cam that's cheaper than an SLR...zoom is what I am looking as the biggest feauture, and I need sharp photos, because I use the photographs to make bookmarks, which I sell. Mainly I take foliage, sunset/sunrise, and pet photos, and was looking at the Sony H7, but today began looking into the S5...which do you suggest I go for...also, is there another I should consider?



Thank you.

Hi, I am from Sri Lanka, and I am to buy DSLR like camera and I set my eyes in few models, mainly, Canon S5is, Sony DSC-H7 and Olympus SP-550-UZ. (18x). However finally I narrowed it to H7 and S5, the reason was 2 friends, Vishkid, flickr.com/photos/vishkid/  (Cybershot DSC-H5)

and Anuradha, flickr.com/photos/anuradha/  (Powershot S3is). However there other good cams such as Olympus, Nikon Coolpix, Fuji etc, worth considering. But who has time?



I have been consulting pros such as Colombo G, Cool boy who strongly advised to go for a DSLR, unfortunately, my budget is as half the cost of a DSLR. However, I noted few important points in the process, posting here, which may useful to prospective Photographers.



Vishkid : You gonna buy a new cam? I really think it's better to go for a DSLR - even a start-up level one like Nikon d40x or canon 400d. The camera I'm thinking of getting is a Nikon DSLR - the D80.



Me : DSLR is outta my budget dude, and even if I go for a DSLR, it wud cost another $250/ for a tele zoom of that 15X range, that H7 has.



Vk : LOL .Yeah you're right. Apart from the DSLR + kit lens prices I mentioned below you will need to invest in another piece of glass (at least one).

You will get a 18-55 lens with the camera (18-135 in the case of d80 kit I mentioned) and a separate 70-300 will cost $250. Also you hv the hassle of changing lens when switching from wide to telephoto. So it's worth your while to invest in H7/H9/S5IS .. if you don't need the additional flexibility of DSLR (yet).



However, it's not the tools, it's the talent. There is no harm in investing on better tools. But if you ain't got talent, no tool can make it better ... just have a look at some flickr accounts - there are guys with D200's and 5D's who take no better photo's (or even worse) than you and I.



Even with prosumer, you'll be spoiled for choice these days. There are so many to select from. Basically from what I hear Canon S5IS is also worth a look if you're looking at a zoom cam.



DSC-H5 is a super-zoom SLR-like camera. It has pretty good reviews along with H1 and H2. I think it's one of the best Sony digi-cams.



However it's now old and is replaced by H7 and H9 which hv better resolution and zoom but the reviews are mixed. dpreview.com/reviews/specs/...  seems that H9 offers better photo's (H7 too with lesser screen and less some functions) than S5IS but actually does a lot of in camera post processing(PP). This was discussed in the forums I've been in and is generally considered bad. The original photo's taken from both camera's are more or less the same (both supposedly uses the same Sony sensors and Carl Zeiss lenses!) but Sony H9/H7 does more PP and S5IS is more authentic. Agree that H7 is more value for money than H9 so H9 is out.



Considering S5IS and H7, I'm more biased towards the H7 as I'm a Sony fan. And the fact is that H5 was MUCH better than S3IS and nothing really impressive has changed in S5IS.



So in terms of features H7 wins hands down. But I still see a lot of negatives in terms of Sony jpeg creation and compression method in-camera ... I have seen H7 pictures and they are really nice.



So your choice is a hard one .. but if I were to chose I just might go for Sony with all it's supposed' picture quality issues.



Colombo Guy : check out the Canon Powershot 5IS too... personally I like the 5IS better than the H7. But the H7 is also a good cam. But canon is a better camera than anything else. Sony is standard electronic goods manufacturer who came across cameras in the process. but canon has a very good name for cameras on their own right.



Me : But you know that Sony is the biggest Digital Camera manufacturer at present. They have developed a lot and all SE phones are with Sony cams and they deliver simply superb quality in that range.



Main reason for me to go for the H7 was 15x opt zoom, and super CCD sensor, compared to S5 12X and normal CCD.



Colombo Guy : The zoom difference between S5 and H7 is like 50mm. I mean both have an over 400mm (35mm eqvi) lens. u'r not going to shoot wildlife all the time. So I guess that makes small difference. Besides if you want a super zoom just buy a 2x converter :) I’m definitely for the Canon 5IS. the photo quality is brilliant.





Finally, the decision making time :



Considering the picture quality to be equal or almost equal…



1. Cost : S5 is about $100 more than H7, for the Canon name.



2. S3 has a hot shoe to supports external Flash guns. This doesn’t mean I am gonna spend another $500 for a Flash, but this extension gives the idea of its capacity.



3. S5 uses SD cards, and AA batteries, which are much cheaper than Sony memory stix (double cost of SD Cards) and Sonys’ NP-BG1 rechargeable battery will cost around $60/



4. Stereo sound track in video recording. (yeah, I gm gonna shoot some action films)



5. Last but not least, the S5’s Vari-Angle LCD display, very versatile, simply great.





Finally everything has pros and cons, there are lot comments on the net on these and in a site H7 has a A rating and S5 has A- rating. And I am sure to miss H7s’ 15X opt zoom.

Hi, Click. For me, the choice between the Canon S3 (NOT THE S5 NO NO NO) and the Sony H7/H9 boiled down to the fact that you can take time-lapse photography at any interval (2 minutes-60 minutes) for a period of DAYS if you want to, whereas the "time-lapse" on the Sony doesn't deserve the name: no more than ten shots, no more than thirty seconds apart.



The Canon S5 LACKS this ability, which the Canon S3 has. Canon took a step backwards there, in order to cram in some other ability which I do not need and do not want (probably the slightly better movie mode). I wish the S3's screen were larger than 2.0", but I'll live with it to get the excellent time-lapse (which they call "intervelometer").



And I agree with James DeRuvo: I've had Sony before, and I'm sick of being robbed and plundered by the prices on their proprietary batteries & memory.

Hoorah!!!!

Happy to see S5 coming above H7 in the HQ ratings...

Zeniu, I think Canon's thinking on this matter is that they want those with higher expectations to make the move to a full blown DSLR - which would allow the expectations to grow with the shooter's experience. You certainly can't blame them for that as the S5 is in the transitional category between P&S and DSLR. And I agree with this.



The good news is that in the near future, more camera companies will be putting DSLR chips into their p&s lines to get rid of shutter lag and improve performance. So perhaps that S6 will have it.



Meanwhile, here's a few tips for improving your performance with the S5:



1. Prefocus. Hold down the shutter half way to get a prefocus of the image you're shooting. When it changes, prefocus again. This will speed up your camera's performance during picture taking since it won't have to autofocus before it shoots the shot.



2. Use faster SD cards. Yes, there are faster cards and it does make a difference in writing the image file to the card. This is especially key if you're taking multiple or burst images.



3. Fresher batteries. Use alkalines at least. But I recommend using high energy batteries designed for digital photography. Varta is a good brand. They are usually sold in camera shops, are long lasting (because they are sold in small quantities) put out alot of energy.



4. Shoot in "sports" modes when you're in situations that require action. Night or available light modes when in night time settings. These presets can help in speeding up your shots, rather than the camera taking a split second to evaluate the conditions of the lighting.



5. Go manual. If you are manually focusing, particularly in darker settings, you can constantly refocus the image as things happen. Also, the infrared does have a range and if your image is out of that range you can end up with the camera's "best guess" or infinity setting which may not help. You can also go manual on fstops and shutter speeds as well, getting more light faster when you choose.



6. Go with a shallow depth of field.



7. Pan with the action. You can create some pretty cool shots by panning with your shot, focusing on your subject. This will create the effect of your subject in sharp contrast to the blurry background.



8. Use a flash - even in day time. This will "freeze" the image and cause your subject to "pop" in the shot. However, flash is only designed for limited range and can dissipate outside of about 20-25 feet unless you're using a zoomable flash.



9. Stick with 100-400 ISO. Going higher will cause more noise/grain in your shots, particularly in darker settings.



10. Faster lenses will also help. The 4stop settings are as such that the lower the fstop settings on your lens, the faster it is. So going with a faster lens will put more light on the image quicker.

I don't. I happen to agree with the sentiment that it reduces quality. It affects sharpness and causes a loss of light of about 1-2 stops.

Hi, i'm very confused between the canon S5 IS & the canon G9. Which series is better?

qte :

The Canon PowerShot S5 IS is a worthy successor to last year's S3 and it is arguably the flagship Canon PowerShot (though some may disagree) since it has an overall better feature set than the G7. There are some negatives about the S5 highlighted above but which camera is entirely perfect? Overall, I have no problem giving my recommendation and thumbs up to the Canon PowerShot S5 IS for those who want a very good ultra-zoom camera which has almost every feature you need, at a reasonable price too. If a capable all-in-one (good still image mode and impressive movie mode) camera is what you need, the S5 IS is absolutely it.





dpinterface.com/reviews/can... 

I am ready for an upgrade from the first Sony Digital Cyber Shot (a remarkable camera still) it is a 1.6 mega. I have been watching the Canon S5 IS and comparing it with the Sony DSC-H9. My first serious camera was a Canon Rebel 35 mm.

The Canon seems to be the preference, my only objective is I have a Sony Viao notebook that has a slot for the Sony memory stick: which I find convenient to show pictures I have taken when traveling.

My other objective is the fact that the Canon uses 4 AA. I am a young 68 yr old and take a LOT of pictures of grandchildren and landscapes. Is it worth changing to the Canon?? I have held both cameras; and both feel good in my hand. The old Sony has never let me down, but lets face it; time for a new one, the shutter speed is really slow although the pictures are remarkable. I need a good zoom, a quick shutter, and a auto focus.

I meant FZ8 not FZ7 in my reference to the panasonic in my previous post.

hey any idea ragarding sony H3. I am thinking of buying either Sony H3(new release) or Canon S5IS..I am a bit confused.Sony H3 has 10x optical zoom with 8 MP.Its a relatively small camera with respect to Sony H7 and Canon S5IS...Please advice..I need a camera with good zoom minimum 10X which can deliver good quality picture..Advantage of H3 is that we can keep it in pocket.

I already own the Canon SLR D10 and use an additdional Canon 70-300 zoom for sports and such as well as a dedicated flash for this camera- obviously a great camera and no problems. However, if I could find an alternative at times that would be less cumbersome, I would be interested.



How much drop off will I get with the S5IS Canon- is it worth the purchase for weight and hassle factor issues?

I have both, but if I could only have one, I would go for the Canon for ease of use and image quality. I like the custom mode and custom button as well. Also, it uses standard sd card and AA batteries.



I like the sony when i need longer flash range or if I am taking shots that I do not want to edit later on. Sony has a shorter black out in between shots. Sony compresses the picture file too much though leaving it with a soft appearance. That is the sony's only major flaw in my opinion.



If you can afford it and plan on taking low light shots, you should go for a dslr. I like the Nikon 40, 40x or d80 depending on your budget. D40 can be had for a song. Check out amazon.



I love the super zooms (s5 is, dsc-h9) for everything but low light shooting situations. For low light, you need a dslr.



Anyway, Canon has the edge for me.

is olympus s550 worth going for instead of canon s5IS...plz let me know...thanks...

Does anyone know about the shot to shot time with flash? Sometimes my H5 is killing me. I am trying to decide between the H9 and S5.



I have a comment about Sony forcing their customers into proprietary technologies. Why is it a big deal to buy a 50$ 2Gb memory stick? I never use my camera's memory card for my palm and mp3 player, because I buy a memory card for each of them. I think this is not something I consider when buying a camera. Just buy a dedicated memory card for your camera and thats it.

I am a canon and sony executive dealer i have found out there is more demand for the s5 than the sony h9, and the sony h9 has more problems and has more complain and other than that sony memory sticks are very expensive and not so good like the other sd cards.

All I really want is to be able to take a SHARP clear photograph. I now have a Fujifilm E900 that has been a disappointment in picture sharpness as compared to an earlier model. Also a Kodak Easy Share which too is not near as clear as the early Fuji. Much earlier days I had the SLR cameras which were great, but the days of my darkroom etc. are long gone. I do not want to get into the very expensive interchangeable lens DSLR thing.....



So... Canon H9 or Sony S5. The Olympus is nice too but its macro did not look very good when compared side by side with either the Sony or Canon at that great site listed above for side by side comparisons.



Another quick question. Why do the blow ups of the Fujifilm appear to be clearer? Does the huge pixel number actually blur or smooth the image?

I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alterations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panorama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I believe this was already answered today. You would need a teleconverter which would simply magnify the existing range, doubling it. This has terrible tradeoffs including light loss, sharpness/clarity loss, and increased camera shake.



The problem is that there isn't a telephoto lens available for it. You could try eBay, but from what I can see, only wide angle converters are currently being offered by Kodak.



You're MUCH better off getting something with a longer range. Like an SLR with a zoom lens, or if that is too much of an investment, something with a larger lens already attached like the

Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). I'm currently testing the SP-550UZ and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization (important for severe zooming).



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Are you talking about serious hobby photography or just point and shoot memory shots with an edge?



If serious about photography, well, there's no beating an SLR with a good zoom lens for shooting distance shots. I like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) with a good 28-200 zoom. 10+ MP imagery, image stabilization, 9 point auto focus and the uncompressed RAW format option. This would be great for taking good dramatic shots from the sidelines where you can attach it to a mono pod and zoom into the action.



However, I'm not confident that's where you're headng. So here's a midrange option that goes beyond the point and shoot, but isn't a major league investment that an SLR requires ....



I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Well, you could stay in house, but you've already stated that the Sony doesn't shoot well in low light. Might I suggest an Olympus?



I'm currently testing the SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



But what you need is good low light and this camera has some great presets and auto settings that handle low light in available light, nightime and other modes.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.



I know you like Sony, but with their penchant for forcing their customers into proprietary software/hardware solutions, it's left me to factor them out of the race for a replacement in my view.

I've been quite happy with the low light performance of the 500UZ. It has some pretty good low light/available light presets.



But make no mistake, the IS is good, but in those conditions, you'll definitely need a mono or tripod in order to insure a good, stable shot.

I can say that the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) works just fine with Vista, although it has an 18x zoom. It also has pictBridge support, nice large screen and some great presets and edit features.



As for interchangeable lenses, that's an SLR feature.

Check out the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). I'm currently testing it and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I've also been reading alot on this site about the new Sony H9. any comparisons to the Olympus as to clear, sharp pictures, shutter lag, clear-zoom pictures, etc.?

Hello,



do you mean Calcutta, India? Well, if you want to buy it at a local store then you just need to visit the stores and find out. But most likely you can also buy it online and let the camera to be shipped to your home. Check out online stores like amazon.com for example.

If zooming while videotaping is your concern, can I recommend you think the opposite way? how about a video camcorder which can shoot digital stills? You can get much better zoom and a 3ccd camcorder will give you better image resolution.



A good option, if you can still find it, is the Panasonic GS500 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/camcor...  ). 3CCD camera with both firewire and USB 2.0 for transfer, image stabilization, and recording on miniDV. The image resolution is 3x1.5 MP, and the still camera would be the same. And you can zoom in the process and capture straight to an SD card.



Word on the street though, is that the GS500 has been discontinued to make ready for a new model. You can still find it available as vendors sell out their existing stock to make ready. And support will still be available for it.



It's followup is the GS320, it's area is 3x800K. Still pretty good, but the still resolution is only 2MP. But an option if video is the priority over still shots.



My thinking though is that with what may be a once in a lifetime trip, why not just bite the bullet and get both a still camera and a video camera.



If not, I still like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). I'm testing it and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode, editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alterations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



It's video resolution is AVI Movie with Sound: 640x480/30fps and it only limited by the size of your xD card.



The downside, like the FX01, you can't zoom while shooting in video. What is seriously up with that limitation?



I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly, but other than that, it's a top notch camera.

Let me suggest an alternative. Adobe's OnLocation (formerly DV Rack) by serious magic. Record directly to your hard drive at a fast shutter speed. Shutter speed is the issue here, Will. The faster shutter speed you set it at, the better. And I think you can do it with software much more efficiently.



Two key features: 1) "Pre-Record Buffer, which means that before you hit Record, Adobe OnLocation is recording from your camera and saving up to 30 seconds of action that will be added to the start of the recorded content. This helps ensure that you always get the shot."



and 2) Motion-activated recording - "Automatically start recording when motion is detected in a shot..."



That way, you can use your camera for what it does best - being a camera lens and use the software for what it does best - live capturing.

Well, I agree that this would be problematic and cumbersome. Another option I can recommend is the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). I've been testing it and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography. Especially frame by frame. I use it to analyze my son's bat swing and the pitcher's windup.



Granted, 15fps isn't that long, but if you can time just right, it's a decent alternative.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.

Well thanks, Will. You also may want to check out Olympus' Industrial's High Speed solutions. ( olympusindustrial.com/index...  ) But it'll cost you.

Well, there's no substitution for a good SLR like Canon's Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and a good, fast telephoto lens (say 24-200mm with an f4 or below speed rating). You'll drop a cool grand when all is said and done, but you'll be getting similar tools that today's sports photographers use.



However, if you don't want to be a serious hobbyist or professional photographer, and still want great results ... well, lately I've been testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode.



So far, this is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alterations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly and as with any digital camera you have a slight shutter lag. But other than that, it's a top notch camera for a little more than 1/3 of the price. Check out the link above for a few pretty competitive prices.

In my view, what makes for a great feature when shooting sports photography is a fast and continuous "burst mode." The P712 has a burst mode of 1.8fps at full 7MP.



Now, check out the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ). I've been testing this camera and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features.



But the kicker is, that it has a burst mode of 15fps!



This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly and it has a slight shutter drag which every digital camera suffers from. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

I know the Canon Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) doesn't.



Nikon's D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) doesn't either.



Most midrange cameras, like the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) do, but although it does a fine job with it's 18x zoom, it's not a strict SLR.

Well, at 7.1mp, image stabilization, and using an 18X zoom, I'd say so. There are great presets for the UZ including sports, indoors, available light, and my personal fav. 15 fps burst mode.



I'm currently testing the SP-550UZ and have so far been quite pleased with the results. Great for sports photography.

Well, I haven't used the SONY as I'm not a fan. However, in low light, it's my belief that those shutter speeds will just yield you an under exposed image no matter which camera you use. Course, upping the ISO setting will help, but the more you do, it'll bring more grain/noise into the shot. So test well.

I'm currently testing the SP-550UZ and have so far been quite pleased with the results. 7.1 MP, 18x zoom, image stabilization and some great scene based program features including a 15fps burst mode. This is great for sports photography.



It also has in camera editing features such as cropping, sepia and black/white alerations, nite modes, super macro mode for REALLY close up shots, panoramic guides for shooting multiple shots to stitch into a panarama, even a mode for shooting documents.



I'm really enjoying it. If I had to complain, however, I have found the menu structure wanting and difficult to use on the fly. But other than that, it's a top notch camera.

This is a semi-fast camera that take wonderful images when given a good situation. But even in the chaos of a high action shoot this camera has the ability to get really nice images. I feel this camera will be enough to get the images you are looking for. The only real downside is that is doesnt have a massive zoom (10x optical for example) would be nice for close up action shots. But this is a work horse camera. everyone loves it so you really can't go wrong. Check out the awesome user reviews too!.



Good Luck

I don't see alot of professionals out there shooting SONY cameras. They are using either Canon or Nikon. It's really that simple. Nikon has superior glass. Also, Nikon relies on a more standard storage technology whereas Sony tends to try and box their customers into proprietary options.



Given all this, why would anyone want to settle on SONY and pay the premium for that 4 letter word?



Get the Nikon, IMHO.

As with anything, your mileage may vary. And as you grow with the camera, you become more comfortable with it's features, your photography improves.

I don't know, Josh. I'd have to contend with that. I'd match Olympus, for example with Sony anyday. That's not Nikon, mind you, and of course, again, your mileage may vary, but I'd prefer a camera that doesn't rely on proprietary memory cards and format encoding that Sony attempts to force their customers into.



Give me a camera company that makes cameras over an electronics company vying for market share anyday.

Well, that may well be. It wouldn't be the first time a camera maker missed the mark on a model. ;)

Well now basing on the fact that you have had a sony model in the past, you may want to go with the new Sony camera you are looking at now. You would be able to understand the terms and features faster and easier if you got another Sony model rather than upgrading to the Nikon. So it may turn out that by your circumstances the Sony may be easier to use because you have had one in the past. I took a look at some of the photos you have, and hey, they look good. Keep it up for sure. The Nikon's menu system is for the most part well set up and easy to work with but if you've had a sony I'd say stay with them. Well at least if you have for the most part been pleased with your other Sony model. Hope this helps, and sorry for the other complications regarding what we have already answered to this question.

Thanks for the replies.



I am sure about two Sony Cameras. DSC W55 & DSC W80. However, I would now only like to check out a few Nikon Cameras.



Can anyone recommend me few of the latest models from NIKON, which would also be a little easy to use. I agree Nikon has a slight edge considering the cost factor, since there are more open options with accessories like SD Cards.

I have to disagree with "the learning curve" in any Coolpix model camera. The advantage of the coolpix line is that you have the auto mode which allows you to simply point and shoot, and end up with pretty good pictures, almost right out of the box. They then bundle a ton of manual features that you may want to start playing with later (I believe, for example, that the l12 offers manual white balance, which is REALLY nice). My very first digital camera was a coolpix 600 which was a 1.2 megapixel camera. Since then, I have had a 3 megapixel cannon, a 4 megapixel fuji, and a a 3.2 megapixel fuji. I have used friends and family members pro-sumer olympus camera, a few different Kodak cameras, a sony camera an HP camera, and a few other cheaper cameras.



By and far, my favorite camera was my old coolpix 600, despite the fact that it was only a 1.2 megapixel camera. The Nikor lense has an advantage over most other cameras, as its made of glass. The image quality is really that much better. It does an excellent job of picking up different color tones and shades, and produces realistic colors. Prints from the camera will knock your socks off, and to my prosumer eye (not professional, mind you), I think the prints from the Coolpix cameras are well comparable with some of the prints that come from some of the nicer slr film cameras. Just turn off the digital zoom feature.



The newer Kodak cameras produce the second-best quality pictures for a point and shoot camera. They are extreamely easy to use, and throw in a lot of fun features. However, when you go to print out photos, you start to notice unrealistic black levels. The older Kodak cameras are junk, producing some weird colors.



The Sonys I would not recommend to anyone. While Sonys do excellent in low-level lighting, there tends to be noise in the pictures. In better lighting conditions, the Sony tends to over-saturate color. Some people like this, but it seems to be unrealistic photos. The upside of them is that they are fairly easy to use.



The cannon point and shoot cameras probably tie for third place with Olympus. They produce good pictures, excellent color reproduction, and with a steady hand, will give you some amazing pictures in low-level lighting. The reason I am putting these as third place, though, is that they are not as stupid-proof as the Kodaks, and while the image quality is exceptional, is not as good as the Nikons.



I am not at all happy with Fuji point and shoot cameras, particually the A series. These are just cheap cameras, and with the cheap Nikons going for about $120 MSRP, I cannot see a reason to recommend one. Not that they are bad, its just that there are better choices. Most of the Fujis I have seen use the xD memory card, which is quite annoying. These things are so tiny, that I am always misplacing them, and the only thing that uses xD is Fuji and Olympus. Stick with a camera that uses SD or Compact Flash.



The Poloroid that I have now is one that someone gave me, and is absolute junk. While it gets the job done, there are absolutely no advanced features, colors are muted, and even in excellent lighting conditions, pictures tend to blur.



There is not a single other brand I would recommend, every one else seems to be playing the "Me too" game.



Conclusion - get a Nikon. They are cheap enough that in many cases they underprice the competition, for the most part give a better picture quality than the competition of comparable price, and most have both easy and advanced features, so while you can use it straight out of the box, you will have a camera that can grow with you.



Of course, with any camera, I suggest reading reviews, searching for sample pics on the internet, go to the store and physically put your hands on a camera and see if you like it, and, most importantly, knowing what you will be using your camera for.

I am still a little confused about the brand to buy. Getting many a suggestions from people all over. Recently I have also come across another camera which I think I can consider. Canon PowerShot A710 IS. However would like to know a little more about this model.



Can anyone help with this model, as to how good it is....??

I actually just bought the Nikon Coolpix L12 last weekend. Stupidly-simple to use, most of the features are automatic, and works right out of the box. A small annoyance is that you did have to install the bundled software to get Windows to even detect when you hook up the camera. I am amazed at this camera, pictures are very good quality, crisp even in low lighting (with image stabalization, which in very low lighting will up the iso mode, so you may get some graniness on the screen, but the resulting output to the computer is actually quite good. The quality of video if you change it to higher quality in the menu (default is 320x240 at 15fps, you can set it to 640x480 30 fps) is amazing, although will eat your memory card alive.

All in all, this is an excellent camera. My only annoyance with the thing is that it does not have a view finder, you must use the lcd. However, this is okay with me as its quite bright, even in direct sunlight, and has an amazingly good battery life.

I have recently checked out Canon Powershot A570is as well as Canon Powershot A710is. I liked both these cameras. Wondering now, about only few aspects.



Canon Powershot A570is - 4x Optical Zoom

Canon Powershot A710is - 6x Optical Zoom

How does this affect my photography? Does 710 hold any major advantage over here?





Canon Powershot A570is - Macro Focus Range - 30cm

Canon Powershot A710is - Macro Focus Range - 1cm

Macro Focus helps to shoot objects from very very close. Does 710 holds any major advantage over here?





Canon Powershot A570is

Minimum Aperture Wide - f2.8



Canon Powershot A710is

Minimum Aperture Wide - f2.6

I have no idea what is Minimum Aperture Wide? Can anyone suggest?







Video fps -

Canon Powershot A570is - 60fps

Canon Powershot A710is - 30fps



60fps is a major improvement for video shooting?







Tele Zoom (mm)

Canon Powershot A570is - 140mm

Canon Powershot A710is - 210mm



Major difference, but what is Tele zoom and which of the above is better?







ISO ratings



Canon Powershot A570is - auto, 80, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600

Canon Powershot A710is - auto





Can anyone advice on the above comparision?

How important is the face detection feature? The only real advantage 570 has over 710IS is the face detection feature...Is the quality of a photograph taken by a camera with face detection better than that of a camera like say 710 which doesn't have face detection??

I have the face detection feature on mine. It SEEMS to give a better focus on the face when used, but this may be because it gives off a series of flashes before it takes the picture on mine when I use the face detection feature. I actually think what the face detection feature does is instead of focusing in on the central point of intrest, it will focus in on the face. I rarely use this, as most cameras, you center your subject, press partly down on the shutter to focus, then frame your picture. As such, the face detection feature sounds like a toy to me.



As far noise reduction in the processor, this is digital noise reduction then, in which case it may be reducing noise by running a "soften" or a "blur" filter on the image. I would play with the camera some in low lighting at the store and see what happens

Auto ISO is not a bad thing. My point is that I like having both Auto and Manual. Most will never use the manual, but if you want a came3ra that will grow with you as you become a better photographer, you may eventually want manual features.



I played with the face detection thing on mine at the lake today. It makes so much more sense in direct sunlight, especially if you try taking picture after picture after picture. In this case, on mine, you line up a face, or even two (some you can have up to 8 points of focus), then I can snap, move, snap, move, snap zoom in, snap, and so forth, and not have to refocus as the camera is following the face and doing it for you. That is cool, I thought I would have to resetup the face feature for each pic, but that's not the case. Now, I do not know if that is how it is on all cameras, but that is how it is on the nikon coolpix l12. I imagine this feature varies from one company to another.



I just really like the 6x optical zoom, i have not seen a consumer level camera with that high of a zoom level. I LIKE using my zoom, however, with the l12, it takes such high resolution pictues, i can zoom in on my computer and crop, and still have pretty freakin high quality pictures.



Its really up to you.

Gray market usually means the camera was made in China and purchased and shipped over here from a company. As such, the warranty is in force in China, not the United States. So if something goes wrong with it, you'll have to ship it over there for repair.



Product that authorized dealers sell offer in country warranties and local repair options.



In addition, the menus and manuals may not even be in your language!



More information can be found here ( mycamera.com/index_graymark...  ).

I have ultimately bought a Canon Powershot A10is from an authorised dealer. A koOL Camera. No problems as of yet. One task seems to be over for me.



I am now looking to buy one more Camera with a slightly higher configuration, considering the optical zoom or Megapixels.



Have checked the following two:



Canon Powershot S3 IS

6.00 Mpixel

12x Optical Zoom

Macro Focus Range: 0cm

(Seems strange to me, does this mean there is no macro function at all? or that you can almost touch the object while shooting?)

Maximum Video Resoultion: 640x480



Canon PowerShot G7

10.00 Mpixel

6x Optical Zoom

Macro Focus Range: 1cm

Maximum Video Resoultion: 1024x768

Digic III Processor with Face detection feature.



I personally feel, G7 has a definite edge over S3 because of being 10Mpixel camera with Face detection and almost similar macro focus range as S3 and a higher video resolution. Is the 12x Optical Zoom more preferrable?? Any user having knowledge about these to cameras?

I think, 6x zoom would be fine for me, if I am getting it with, a Digic III processor with face detection in a 10 megapixels camera. Canon does not classify G7 as "IS". I hope this doesn't mean, it has no Image Stabilization function. Since G7 is a newer model and with advancements like face detection, I think it should have the image stabilization function too.



And yeah, Video resolution doesn't really matter. A 640X480 video at 30fps is good enough, which G7 has.



Yet there is something that you mentioned above. Its the Speed of Memory Card, you said you had to wait for 10-15 seconds before taking the next shot. Are the memory cards categorized according the the speed? or they come with standard function? If there are different types of memory cards available then can you please list the best one?

Yes I saw that later. However I came across one more model from Canon.



Canon Powershot S5 IS.

8 Mpixel Camera,

12x Zoom

Digic III Processor with Face detection feature.



However I checked the sample images but found it a lesser better than the G7. But where people rave about 6x Zoom, 12x Optical zoom must be...... WOW.....

I came across one more model from Canon.



Canon Powershot S5 IS.

8 Mpixel Camera,

12x Zoom

Digic III Processor with Face detection feature.



However I checked the sample images but found it a lesser better than the G7. But where people rave about 6x Zoom, 12x Optical zoom must be...... WOW.....

Is this a 18x zoom on a consumer-end point-and-shoot camera? That is a higher optical zoom than many SLR cameras

hello barry

on a safari how wonderful! you should get some great photos.

as an amateur you need a camera that is easy to use.

the best camera for this is the fz7 it uses the lumix system.

panasonic.co.uk/technology/...  order for you to judge what it can do for you click on the link

flickr.com/photos/trcyburr/... 

Travis, I am currently testing the Olympus SP-550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ) and have been quite pleased with the results. It comes with an 18x zoom, image stabilization, a wide array of scene presets, and my favorite feature - a 15 fps burst mode, which is great for shooting sports type pictures.



My only grief is that the menu layout is a tad bulky and it relies on xD card storage rather than the more standard SD format. But aside from that, it's working great so far.



I'll be putting an article together about it this month, so look for it.

Sure, that's understandable.

That's a sweet shot, Steve.

Thanks for your responses. I decided to go with the new Samsung S850. So far it is very easy to use and outperforms my old Nikon 5400 by leaps and bounds. It was hard to eliminate the Panasonic DMZF27 after seeing Steve's pictures, very nice.

Please see this review dpreview.com/reviews/olympu...  think the short answer is look elsewhere at least until they bring out the next version

18 X zoom alone is not sufficient to justify another $499 spent when you have already have an SP510UZ.



The main reason being, the image sensor for Ultra zooms are still much smaller than that of dSLRs.



However, SP550UZ does have some improvement over SP510UZ. Image stabilization for example is the CCD shift type and there is a time lapse capability which I can't find in 510UZ.



Overall impression to me is if you already have a 510UZ, a better and more worthy upgrade would be to go for dSLR. The larger sensor of dSLR do not have so much noise problem of ultra zoom camera which means you can select a higher ISO to enable higher shutter speeds for a sharper picture.

I don't think so. It has a full auto setting and you can always grow into the more advanced manual features. I'm actually playing with this camera right now and find it quite enjoyable, even on basic auto.



When you're ready to move on from that, it's easily a case of experimenting more advanced features, should you be interested in growing into your camera.



If you want to simply point and shoot to capture the moment, and if you don't have any interest in photography as a hobby or even experimenting with various features, then perhaps a more basic camera would be more to your liking.



But as for the SP-550z, I think it would definitely take you places photography wise. It's just whether or not you want to invest that kind of money for a camera that's in between point and shoot or SLR.



For hobbies, I'd tend to go with an SLR like the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...  ).

I think the Canon S3IS is a good bet: 6MP, 12x optical.

panasonic tz1 - very compact - 10x optical - 5mp - 2.5" lcd - optical image stabilization - very nice photo's (I own 2 of them) and best of all only $179 right now at VANN"S or if you want the latest then go for the new tz3 with a 3" lcd - an even more compact size, and 7.2 mp



these tz (travel zoom) camera's are really nice