Hey! You should know that this product has been discontinued. Here are our current recommended cameras in the Point and Shoot Digital Cameras category.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50
Editor's Review
If you loved Panasonic's FZ30 (and who didn't?), you'll want to get your hands on the all-new Lumix FX50 with 12x optical zoom. With such a long zoom, image stabilization is key, and Panasonics lauded Mega O.I.S. technology helps to reduce the shake and jitter of unsteady hands that can often blur your photos. This sturdy, attractive camera also can take video at 30 frams per second in a 16:9 widescreen aspect ratio, perfect for modern widescreen TVs and computer displays.
Specifications
- 10.1 megapixels
- 12x optical zoom / 2-4x digital zoom
- Auto and manual focus
- Auto and manual exposure
- JPEG and RAW file formats
- ISO 80-3200
- Secure Digital storage (32MB SD card included)
- Movie mode, with sound
- Lithium-ion battery
- Part Number: DMCFZ50K/c
- UPC: 021331374462
- Release Date: Jul 30, 2006
Shop for FZ50 Accessories
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 Comments & Questions (write your own!)
can anyone give me a tip as to how i can take close up macro photos with this camera? It has a macro AF switch on the side, and i thought it would be a simple point and shoot on that setting, but the camera is totally unable to focus, i´ve tried a whole range of distances, nothing works. Am i missing someting, or is it a fault with the camera?
Appreciate any suggestion - the less technical the better :-)
I was thinking you had to use a point and shoot camera. Is there a DSLR camera you would recommend and what lens would be best. How about these new 4/3 cameras?
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I require an instruction system that does not assume any prior knowledge of digital photography,
in the form of either a book or DVD.
Both available at Amazon.com. But also, a good Google search for digital photography tips will help as well. Lastly, check with your local community college for a digital photography course. You'd be amazed how much you learn and how much fun it is.
translate.google.com/transl...
translate.google.com/transl...
I use ISO 200 with 1/160 ss at f2.8. With some mild photoshop assistance I can get reasonable results without degrading jpeg resolution too much (depending on the type of halogen lighting). ISO 400 is out of the question, too much noise.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
nemodus.info/fz50/docs/FZ50... unfortunately is not an easy process to upgrade. Hope this helps.
To be honest, while you can purchase these options to screw onto your existing lens, I don't recommend them because the trade-offs involved simply outweigh the benefits in my mind.
turn on ois to mode1
go to scene mode
choose party
set iso to 100
set aspect ratio 16 :9
set af mode to ...H
set flash to auto
I can tell you this though ... I use the Quikpod ( quikpod.com ) for quick snapshots where I want to be in the picture.
The lens protector will do a decent job, but so will a lens adapter with a filter like this set up ( amazon.com/Digital-Telephot... ). You will loose some clairity with both though.
Andrew
You can get one on Amazon for $109 ( amazon.com/Panasonic-DMW-FL... ) on sale right now. You can also get a twin flash for $60 ( amazon.com/DIGITAL-TWIN-FLA... ). If you want to go cheaper, there is a $24 model ( amazon.com/SLAVE-FLASH-PANA... ). The range on the less expensive flash is only 13 feet though.
Andrew
Glad we could help. Please come back with any other questions or issues.
Andrew
Please see the major comparison areas below (the Olympus SP-570 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is listed first in each case).
- Resolution: 10MP vs 8.1MP
The higher resolution at this level will only make a real difference when cropping and printing poster size prints
- Optical zoom: 20x vs 18x
Depending on the widest angle, this could result in a couple hundred mm difference.
- ISO Range: 64-6400 vs 100-1600
While the higher resolution will cause more "noise" or graininess to show in the photos, you will get better photographs in low light situations. This could be huge if you don't like using a flash all the time.
Both of these cameras have image stabilization, which is nice to have in an extended zoom lens to avoid camera shake, and advanced settings. While the extra settings are nice on the Olympus SP-570 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), you have to see if the extra $150(+) price tag is within your budget. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
You are right about the testing. If you can wait a month or two before purchasing, there should be some more decent reviews on the technical quality of the camera. If you don't want to wait, and you narrow it down to you other two choices, I would go with the Panasonic FZ18 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It is a newer camera than the two year old FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and has much more optical zoom 18x vs 12x. While you do get the higher resolution and ISO range in the FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), you won't get the 2 years of technological advances.
As for your battery questions, I've used both lithium ions and AA rechargeables and like both. I keep plenty of charges spares with me when I shoot, so I don't really worry about it that much. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Andrew
olympus-imaging.jp/product/...
While the digital zoom does add extra options, you will find it degrades your resolution. You can get the same results by cropping on your computer.
Andrew
I'm in the same delima as George but i guess i will settle for the Panasonic FZ18 as i find the zoom of Lumix FZ18 much better in comparison than the Olympus SP570...i may be wrong.....
if it can zoom while recording ?
Enjoy, Larry
It won't be so bad when started with 10MP for 4:3 format,then the guality will be down to 8MP for 16:9 format.
Thanks so much,
Tony Johnson
Manufacturers rarely change their user interface between cameras along the same line, so the learning curve on these two cameras would be about the same. Both cameras have a lot to offer, so the choice is tough. If I had to make the choice, I would go with the Panasonice FZ-50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has a much larger ISO setting range (up to 3200), which will bring more light in for low light situations like inside a gym or auditorium. Realize that a higher ISO setting will cause more "graininess" in your photos. The 10MP resolution is a huge draw as well.
If you're worried about losing zoom length, you can get an add-on lens ( www2.panasonic.com/consumer... ) that you can use with an adapter. This particular lens ads 1.7x optical magnification, bringing your lens length to over 20x overall. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Thanks, Gary
Play around with some of the scene presets. They include: Portrait, Soft Skin, Scenery, Sports, Night Portrait, Night Scenery, Panning, Food, Party, Candle, Fireworks, Snow, Starry Sky, Baby 1, Baby 2, High sensitivity
Depending on your photo conditions, the presets will yield you a more accurate exposure than simply relying on the "auto" settings.
There's also an aperture priority setting which allows you to open up your camera lens aperture wider to let in more light. You can also mess with the exposure compensation settings as well.
But before all that, I'd try resetting the camera. This is a fairly easy procedure which involves either going into your setup menu and choosing "reset," holding down the menu key for a few seconds, or, removing the batteries for a few minutes. It may be that the firmware loading got corrupted and the camera just needs to be "rebooted," which is something that turning it on/off won't accomplish. But after which, you should have the camera reset to factory default settings.
BTW - if you received the answer you're looking for, please click on the icon "mark as best answer." This will place the question in the answered section for everyone to see. That helps us in keeping DHQ updated. Thanks.
From the-digital-picture.com:
First, open the aperture wide. All other factors being identical, a wider the aperture yields a shorter depth of field. How wide? Experience is the best teacher here. The above picture was taken at f/2.8. Experiment!
In conjunction with using a wide aperture setting comes using a lens that has a very wide aperture such as the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 Lens. It can create a blurred background much more easily than a slow lens (such as the Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 lens). The fast lens has much more latitude on the wide end of the aperture than the slow lens.
Monster Buck Picture
Another way to get a more diffusely blurred background is to use a lens with a long focal length such as the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS Lens used for the above Monster Buck picture. It will be much more difficult to blur a background with the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L Lens. All focal lengths yield the same depth of field when used at the same aperture setting and subject framing. But, the image compression a telephoto focal length provides magnifies the already blurred background. The result is a background that appears more diffusely blurred.
Using a higher focal length has the additional advantage of including less background in your picture. A higher focal length lens has a smaller angle of view. Pretty simple - less background in your picture leaves less room for distraction. This may be a reason to choose the Canon EF 180mm L USM Macro Lens over the Canon EF 100mm USM Macro Lens. Again, less background in the picture reduces the chance of distractions.
Larry
<a href="flickr.com/photos/fyahstart... title="Gulls. by Fyahstarter, on Flickr"><img src="farm4.static.flickr.com/316... width="500" height="375" alt="Gulls." /></a>
P.S. I've also found that's it's better to use 1-area or spot focusing to give better results when it comes to soft backgrounds.
Another tip is to go to Panasonic's website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
Arlen
Arlen
Press [Menu Set]
Push "<"
Push "V"
Push ">"
Push "V" (scroll down 15 menu items - it's a long trip :-)
Push ">"
Select "Yes"
Press [Menu Set]
Select "Yes"
Press [Menu Set]
Keywords
DMC-FZ50
Lumix
Panasonic
Burst
Broken
Shut off
Press [Menu Set]
Push "<"
Push "V"
Push ">"
Push "V" (scroll down 15 menu items - it's a long trip :-)
Push ">"
Select "Yes"
Press [Menu Set]
Select "Yes"
Press [Menu Set]
Keywords
DMC-FZ50
Lumix
Panasonic
Burst
Broken
Shut off
There's a benchmark review of the Sandisk Extreme III card here ( mobiletechreview.com/tips/s... ) from 2005. Times at around 2.12 seconds according to the article. The results are bound to be outdated and I'm sure the speeds have been improved upon.
Have you looked at the S5100?
noise problem is much bigger than I imagined. so i think I'm going to go with a Canon S3 is or S5 is and thanks for the tip about the s5100. ,Andy
There are much better options available to you that are more affordable. Like the Canon S5IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), SONY H9 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and my personal fave the Olympus SP550UZ ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Please explain.
Anita, glad you see you found the best camera for you.
Zoom,lowlight,and flash
Doing this, it seems that they are pretty evenly matched. Although my opinion is that the G5 yields a more natural looking portrait - particularly indoors with a flash. YMMV. The H9 and the G5 do have very similar Macro ranges which gives them the edge over the PZ50, IMHO.
fotothing.com/dpeteryes/pho... looking picture quality in flash mode for indoor family fotos also.Thank you
With our quick release tripod base and hand grip/wrist strap retainer (A must have accessory for security,safety and control) in place there is no way that the screen can be rotated fully for overhead usage......We live with it! as all other features have exceeded our expectations........We hope these details help in some way........Cheers Ray and Nicole......Hobart Tasmania Australia.
Contact us at nicandray@aapt.net.au and we can forward some of the "proof of the pudding"
P.S......We have added a few convenient accessories to the kit,such as 2 and 4 Gigabyte SDHC Memory Cards.....A superb Lowepro Apex 120AW Bag, Extra Battery and an in car charger,plus 2 good quality lens filters,one of which is purely to protect the lens from damage and the elements.
Both slug it out pretty good (although I had to settle with comparing the G7), while the flash on the FZ50 seems more powerful, the G Series has the edge for the macro setting.
But when choosing between two cameras, it may just come down to what camera feels good in your hand. Go to a local camera store and check both out side by side, holding them, feeling their center of gravity, the balance. How it sits in your hand. That usually sells me one way or the other.
You should be able to just plug the FZ50 in to your Mac (OSX, I'm assuming) via the USB and it should show up as a removable drive. No software required. Does this not happen when you plug it in?
Thanks!
scriptsoftware.com/iwaterma... one called lightroom is well known for photo editing.
If you're making an appeal, I'm afraid we can't affect that kind of change here. But I do know that companies do listen to their employees when requesting features for future versions of their products.
Max. SDHC Capacity
Shake Reduction
MegaPixel (Effective Resolution) 6.1 megapixels
Max Image Resolution 3008 x 2000
CCD Size (WxH mm) 23.7 x 15.6 mm
Lens Fitting Nikon AFS
Focal Length Conversion Factor 1.5x
Compatible storage media (card not supplied) SD Card, SDHC Card
Compatible with MicroDrive
Max No of Images on an optional 64MB Card
Supplied Card
Max. No of Images (on supplied card)
Max Expandable Memory
Max Consecutive Shots 100
Continuous Shooting Speed (fps) 2.5 fps
Battery Type Li-ion Battery EN-EL9
Exposure Modes Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Picture Modes, Manual
Metering Modes Centre Weighted, Colour Matrix, Spot
ISO Speed Range 200 - 1600
Exposure Compensation Yes
Auto Exposure Bracketing
Flash Modes TTL
LCD Monitor Yes
Built in Flash Yes
Connection Type USB 2.0
White Balance Modes Auto, Manual, Preset
Depth of Field Preview
Focusing Modes One-shot AF, Continuous AF, Manual
Audio Recording
Flash Sync Socket
Movie Mode
Mains Adapter Included
Operating System
Tripod Thread Yes
Video Out PAL, NTSC
Dimensions (WxHxD) mm 126 x 64 x 94mm
Weight (Kg) 475g (without battery)
this is for the panasonic lumix dmc fz50
Lens LEICA DC VARIO-ELMARIT
14 elements in 10 groups (3 Aspherical lenses / 3 Aspherical surfaces, 1 ED Lens)
Optical Image Stabilizer MEGA O.I.S. (Mode1 / Mode2)
Zoom Optical: 12x
Extra Optical:
4:3 Aspect: 13.4x for 8.0 Mega, 17.1x for 5.0 Mega, 21.4x for 3.0 / 2.0 Mega
3:2 Aspect: 13.4x for 7.0 Mega, 17.1x for 4.5 Mega, 21.4x for 2.5 Mega
16:9 Aspect: 13.4x for 5.5 Mega, 21.4x for 2.0 Mega
Digital: 2x / 4x pre-select (Max. 48x combined with Optical Zoom without Extra Optical Zoom) (Max. 85.5x combined with Extra Optical Zoom)
Focal Distance f=7.4 - 88.8 mm (35 mm Equiv.: 35 - 420 mm)
Focusing Area Normal: Wide 30 cm (0.98 feet) / Tele 200 cm (6.56 feet) - infinity
Macro : Wide 5 cm (0.16 feet) / Tele 200 cm (6.56 feet) - infinity
AF Metering 1-point / 1-point high speed / 3-point high speed / 9-point / Spot
AF Assist Lamp Yes
Conversion Lens Compatibility Yes
Camera Effective Pixels 10.1-Megapixel
Image Sensor 1/1.8", 10.4 Mega Total Pixels CCD, Primary Color Filter
Focus AF / AF Macro / MF Switchable, Manual Focus (Ring), Continuous AF : On / Off
ISO Sensitivity Auto / I.ISO / 100 / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600
(High Seusitivity Mode : 3200)
White Balance Auto / Daylight / Cloudy / Shade / Halogen / Flash / White Set 1/2
White Balance Adjustment (?9 step, two axis)
Exposure Auto, Program AE, Aperture Priority AE, Shutter Priority AE, Manual
Exposure Compensation 1/3 EV step, -2 - +2 EV
Backlight Compensation Yes (at Auto Mode)
Auto (AE) Bracketing ? 1/3 EV - 1EV step, 3 frames
Light Metering Intelligent Multiple / Center Weighted / Spot
Scene Mode Dial:
Auto, P(Program) Mode, A(Aperture Priority) Mode, S(Shutter Priority) Mode, M(Manual) Mode, SCN (Portrait, Sports, Scenery, Night Scenery, Night Portrait, Fireworks, Party, Snow, Panning, Soft Skin, Food, Baby1, Baby2, Starry Sky, Candle Light, High sensitivity), Motion picture, Playback, Custom
Shutter Speed Auto : 1 / 4 - 1 / 2000 sec.
Program AE : 1 - 1 / 2000 sec.
Aperture Priority AE / Shutter Priority AE: 8 - 1/2,000 sec. Manual: 60 - 1/2,000 sec.
Aperture Wide: F2.8 - F11
Tele: F3.7 - F11
Self Timer 10 sec. / 2 sec.
Auto Review 1 sec. / 3 sec. / zoom
Review 1x / 4x / 8x
Picture Adjustment Contrast: Low, Standard, High
Sharpness: Low, Standard, High
Saturation: Low, Standard, High
Noise Reduction: Low, Standard, High
Color Effect Mode Cool, Warm, Black & White, Sepia
Recording Format Still Image: JPEG (Design rule for Camera File system, based on Exif 2.2 standard), DPOF corresponding
Image with Audio: JPEG (Design rule for Camera File system, based on Exif 2.2 standard)+ QuickTime
Motion Picture: QuickTime Motion JPEG
RAW
Recording Image Size Still Image
4:3 Aspect: 3,648 x 2,736 pixels,
3,264 x 2,448 pixels,
2,560 x 1,920 pixels,
2,048 x 1,536 pixels,
1,600 x 1,200 pixels,
3:2 Aspect: 3,600 x 2,400 pixels,
3,248 x 2,160 pixels,
2,560 x 1,712 pixels,
2,048 x 1,360 pixels
16:9 Aspect: 3,584 x 2,016 pixels,
3,072 x 1,728 pixels,
1,920 x 1,080 pixels
Image Quality RAW / Fine / Standard
Motion Picture*
(QuickTime Motion JPEG)
4:3 Aspect:
640 x 480 pixels, 320 x 240 pixels
30 fps, 10 fps
16:9 Aspect:
848 x 480 pixels
30 fps, 10 fps
(Max. recording time depends on memory card capacity.Max. 2GB for motion picture)
Burst Shooting Mode Full-Resolution Image, 2 frames/sec. or 1 frames/sec.
Full-Resolution: Max. 5 images (Standard Mode) / Max. 3 images (Fine Mode)
Unlimited Consecutive Shooting Yes (Depending on memory card size, battery power, picture size, and compression)
Still Image Rec.
with Audio
5 sec.
Audio Dubbing Max. 10 sec.
Real-time Histogram Yes
Composition Guide Lines Yes (2 patterns)
Scene Mode Help Screen Yes
Auto Angle Detection Yes
Flip Animation Yes
Travel Date / World Time Yes / Yes
Built-in-Flash Auto, Auto / Red-eye Reduction, Slow Sync. / Red-eye Reduction, Forced On / Off
Flash Output Adjustment (1/3EV Step, -2 - +2EV)
Wide: 0.3 - 7.4 m Tele: 0.3 - 5.6 m (ISO Auto)
External Flash** Hot Shoe (TTL Auto)
Viewfinder 0.44" Color EVF (235 K Pixels), Field of View : approx. 100%
LCD Free-angle 2.0" Polycrystalline TFT LCD (207 K Pixels)
Field of View : approx. 100%
Power LCD mode
Playback Mode 25 / 9 - thumbnail display, Calendar display, Zoomed playback (16x max.), Image rotation (except for RAW),
Slide show (duration is adjustable, also manual controllable),
Playback of favorite pictures, out-of-framed display
Resizing (selectable number of pixels), Trimming, Protection, DPOF print setting
Recording Media SD Memory Card, SDHC Memory Card, MultiMediaCard
Microphone Yes
Speaker Yes
Interface DC Input, A/V Output (NTSC / PAL), USB
Direct Print PictBridge
Power Li-ion Battery Pack (7.2 V, 710 mAh) (Included)
Battery Charger / AC Adaptor (Input: 110 - 240V AC) (Optional)
Battery Life (Approx.) 360 pictures (CIPA Standard***) / 360 pictures (with EVF****)
Included Software LUMIX Simple Viewer, PHOTOfunSTUDIO -viewer-, SILKYPIX DEVELOPER STUDIO 2.0SE, ArcSoft Camera Suite (ArcSoft PhotoImpression, ArcSoft PanoramaMaker), Adobe Reader, Quick Time, USB Driver
Dimensions(Approx.)
(W x H x D) 140.75 x 85.5 x 142 mm
(5.54 x 3.37 x 5.59 inch)
(Not including protruding parts)
Weight (Approx.) 668 g. (1.47 lb) (Body),
734 g (1.62 lb) (with Battery and SD Memory Card)
Standard Accessories Check the website of the Panasonic sales company in your country or region for details on the standard accessories that are available in your market.
The D40, being a dSLR, will almost by default produce better images than the FZ50. It is certainly 100% capable of doing so. dSLRs use bigger (physically-speaking) CCD imaging sensors than non-dSLRs which means that each pixel gets more light, which means that in the end you get a cleaner, less noisy, sharper and more detailed photo. Furthermore, dSLRs allow for changing lenses to get every kind of shot humanly possible. They also respond much more quickly than non-SLRs. They focus faster and shoot faster, and usually also start up faster.
The FZ50 is a very good non-dSLR camera, but it just can't stand up to what the D40 has to offer. It's also somehow bigger and heavier than the D40--usually this is the other way around. And this is not to mention the image noise problems that nearly all FZ50 owners complain about.
However, the FZ50 offers some things the D40 can't: it can shoot video (and quite nice video at that), you can compose your shots using the LCD screen (dSLRs are almost always viewfinder-only), you don't have to worry about changing lenses and the fixed lens is really quite good.
Hope this helps!
there are pros and cons when comparing these 2 cameras, as pointed out by ben keough. i would like to summarize also the main few pros and cons for each camera:
for the d40-
PROS: the image quality of pictures taken with a dslr camera compared to a point and shoot digital camera is superior at almost all iso settings. this is probably the only main reason people opt for a dslr camera.
CONS: it's expensive. buying more lenses for the job means more money. while some may not mind, it is definitely very cumbersome, having to carry all that stuff with you.
for the fz50-
PROS: the features of a dslr. an instant 12x optical zoom powered through a reknowned Leica brand. Non-interchangeable lens means only one camera to carry (unless one plans to carry an external flash). Affordability.
CONS: the camera's main weakness is poor image quality at iso 400 and beyond. making it almost impossible to get good low lighting shots.
the question is what are your needs, and are you willing to live with the cons of the camera you decide on?
I'm wondering how much of the picture-quality difference between these tow cameras, as described by ben and dogman, above, can be mitigated or compensated for by whatever photo-editing software one uses.
I can't afford Photoshop, but I'm finding the free, easy editing programs aren't meeting my needs as I become more ambitious about my photos.
I'd be interested to know if anyone could recommend a good alternative to Photoshop for the ambitious, but not very tech-minded, amateur?
Panasonic tech support is not help
Normally it is set at AF. If you switch it to AF Macro, it will allow you to focus up to 5cm from the object without the use of a close up lens, provided the zoom is turned to wide angle.
If a close up lens is attached, I would side the Focus switch to Manual Focus. With the zoom turned to wide angle, use the focus ring to focus on the subject.
You might try the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It has image stabilization for less blurry indoor shots, a sharp 10.1 megapixels to ensure quality photos, and a good deal of auto and manual settings. This camera will get what you need done. I would also recommend getting a tripod to ensure the best photo of your work.
Andrew
Polarizing filters, for example, is used to cut off reflections from glass panes and water surfaces so that you can get a clearer pictures of, say, fishes in the ponds and aquariums.
UV filters are used to cut off excessive ultraviolet rays so that the sky will appear more blue and the cloud stands out more clearly in the pictures. Some people use UV filters to protect their lenses so that it will not be scratched accidentally.
Digital cameras have built in white balance, so there is no need for the old type of filters for different light sources.
In the end you probably can scale down your need of filters to UV and polarizing filters unless you take portraits where you may consider soft focus filters.
You can browse through dBay and Amazon.com to see all the available filters for FZ50. As an example you can find <a href="amazon.com/Panasonic-DMW-LM... UV filter for FZ50</a> at this location.
S3IS: dpreview.com/reviews/canons... newst, more expensive version of the S3IS
H9: dpreview.com/reviews/read_o...
FZ50: dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... S3IS wins over the FZ50 because of the better noise reduction algorithms in the Canon model. The Panasonic is suggested to not go over ISO200, which is very disappointing for a camera this expensive. It has a larger feature set, but I would think someone spending this much for a camera is going for picture quality, not bells and whistles.
The Sony H9 camera suffers from poor compression issues, making editing near worthless. Very disappoint for a near $500 camera.
Depending on how soon you need a new camera, I'd suggest getting the S3IS now if you need the camera now, or wait to see how the S5IS compares to the S3IS before choosing between the two. But over all your choices, stick with the Canon.
I do appreciate you recommendation. I am rather impatient and had just experienced a complete failure of my Minolta Dimage 7hi. I had never used this type of forum and should have probably waited a few more days.
Thanks again for you help.
If a PC, then I'm a fan of Adobe Premiere Elements. It's hard to argue with 99 audio and video tracks for under $100. And importing quicktime is a snap.
the camera you need is the new lumix fz8
check the stats at
dcviews.com/reviews/Panason...
If you are a Bird photographer then go for SLR( Canon 400 D or Nikon D80 or Nikon D40x.However remember the limitation of D40X regarding Lense compatibility. I understand that along with Nikon Camera you have to buy Appropriate software for RAW conversion .Which will added to cost.I am owning FZ50 ,and some time I feel that SLR was a better Choice while shooting at higher ISO setting and Small Birds. Further if you are not particular about the SLR type styling then look at Panasonic FZ8 .It has almost all the features of FZ50 .
This is simple: If money's not a problem... just go for the Nikon D80, Pentax K10D... and buy good lenses.
If it's a problem... but not that much... buy the Nikon D40X...
But... if you want a good camera with also a fix lens, so you don't have spend extra on this... go for one of the last superzoom FujiFilm cameras. Why? Because of the Super CCDs, they have almost the same image quality than a SRL up to ISO 400, and is perfectly usable at ISO 800. Try to find one with image stabilization, so you can use the tele with no restrictions.
Hope to be helpful,
Alan Schamber.
Yes, this is the typical electronic viewfinder. Unfortunately there is no camera that has super zoom lens and optical viewfinder. So if you hate the electronic viewfinder then the only option is to use just the LCD screen for preview and focusing...
Thanks for responding, it's not the answer I was hoping for but at least now I know my situation.
Thanks again,
Tom
Panasonic only upgrades its firmware when it realeases new models
current firmware is lumix engine 3
-W
Will investigate further!!
Thanks!
I just downloaded the 1.09 firmware for my FZ50 from Dave M site:
nemodus.info/fz50/
link to the firmware:
nemodus.info/fz50/docs/FZ50... you, Dave!
Good Luck
This shake comes naturally with a lot of people. To get good sharp pictures, when the button is depressed, make sure all other parts of the body ' freeze ' temporarily. Holding your breath helps.
If you find it difficult, a tripod will be invaluable, particularly at extreme zoom of 300mm and above.
The other point is if you cannot see enough of the bird to focus, set the aperture to the smallest and focus on the nearest object, the leaf or the branch, lock the focus and slowly swing the camera back to the position of the bird, and wait for the right moment to release the shutter.
Practice makes perfect. After some time, you will be OK.
So I guess it's distributed in Europe (but not England?), sure.
But what problems could I expect if I were to order from the US? It has to be something more than mere voltage, voltage converters are cheap and easy to find, plus I'm sure I could just buy an adapter anyhow.
The prices over here are considerably higher, so I'd like to order from the states. I do not, however, want to make a horrible mistake and spend all that money on a camera that I can't use or will explode.
A look on Panasonic's European site (and the German one) indicates that the company doesn't offer a camera with the designation DMC-FZ50 over there; only the DMC-FZ50EG is available. This (and the fact that the cameras' stats are identical) leads me to believe that the two cameras are identical and simply named differently for some kind of corporate reason. Canon does similar things with its IXUS/SD series.
Hope this helps!
If you're looking for a compact camera, I would not recommend the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). It will be closer in size to your SLR cameras. The Canon SD800 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) does stay at 28mm at the widest angle, so that may be an advantage for you. It is also slightly smaller. I love the ELPH that I have (S230 thats 5 years old), and it still captures great images. I'm sure you'll find the 7.1 megapixels compliment the 28mm lens just fine. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Besides, many, perhaps most, states have laws that prohibit the re-sale of used merchandise, even 'slightly' used merchandise.
Retailers like Best Buy have solved all three problems by charging a 10% return fee, on items like cameras and camcorders. So you could go to a Best Buy (or order online), buy whatever suits your fancy, play with it to your heart's content, and---if you don't like it, take or send it back within 2-4 weeks (varies with retailers) and get 90% of your money back. Sort of like a $40 rental fee on a $400 camera. Seems like a fair solution for all.
I will check out Best Buy online.
If anyone has any other input I would apperciate it too :o)
The Panasonic FZ7 is pretty advanced camera and has very high customer ratings. You mention about viewfinder but I don't know what kind of viewfinder exactly do you like? Keep in mind that super zoom cameras do not have optical viewfinder. They only have electronic one, and yes, electronic viewfinder is not nice at all...
it take good pic out side but inside if you're not close it blur I went to the ACC and could not get a good pic and it always ask for the flash and It dont have a Image S,
So I want something that I can use in a gym without a Flash and a good onetime Camara
I started to buy a SLR but they are to advance for my wife
I think one would have to look for higher megapixel camera with good high ISO performance for that. I found the Sony DSC T-100 pretty good. There may be others too.
I know I'm not answering your question totally, but I also wanted to add that I have worked with PhotoImpact Pro and found that it handled RAW files capably. Hope that at least gets you pointed in the right direction- maybe someone else will have further advice.
The reasons behind this vary, but basically the expression 'noise' refers to the amount of graininess in a photo, particularly one taken in low light. As the camera kicks up the ISO in order to compensate for low light conditions, it is also increasing the sensor's sensitivity to light, and the result can be high grain at high ISOs. Some cameras handle it better than others. Although Panasonics are great digitals, the higher megapixel ones do tend to have noisier images than comparable cameras by other manufacturers. I have done some looking into this, and all I can figure out personally is that it's like how Fords might break down more often than Dodges- it just has to do with how the mechanics of the thing are made by the company that makes it. In Panasonic's case, the image sensors don't seem to handle high sensitivity as well as other camera makers do, and at the high megapixel count, the problem becomes more noticeable.
Hope that helps!
In manual mode, you'll want to do the following for good non-flash exposures:
1. High ISO setting. The higher the ISO, the more light-sensitive the pixel receptors on the imaging sensor are. This means that you'll get more exposed images in low light. The tradeoff is that the higher the ISO setting is, the grainier (more image noise) the image is.
2. High shutter speed. In terms of getting crisp, blur-free shots there's no replacement for high shutter speed. The problem is that the shorter the time the shutter is open, the less light gets in and the less exposed the image is.
3. Low f-stop. The f-stop determines the aperture (width) of the lens opening. The lower the f-stop number, the wider the aperture and the more light gets in. The problem here is that if you're using high zoom, the aperture widths you can use are limited. You can only get the widest aperture at the widest angle (i.e., no zoom).
In low light it's a neverending tug of war between shutter speed and exposure, so you'll want to play around with this till you get it right. Take lots of test snaps when you get to the arena and see how the exposures come out. You'll probably have to allow some image grain to get in there in order to keep the shutter speed high enough, but that's the price you pay for shooting indoors with a non-SLR.
Hope this helps!
Using the noise reduction softwares how bigger size can you go for
My baby is due and I am upgrading my camera to get good printed pictures of her
You should have no problems printing up to 20"x30" if you wanted to. Using the 10.1 megapixel sensor at the finest resolution for the poster sized prints. I've used a 5MP camera to print images at the poster print sizes, so this camera should be just fine.
Andrew
The FZ50 comes with software that will allow you to stitch photos together to make panorams, but it doesn't have an in-camera stitch function nor does it have a pain old panoramic shooting mode. It does allow you to shoot in 16:9 widescreen format, but that's not quite the same thing.
The software is by ArcSoft. They make very decent programs, but they're not anywhere near the level of Adobe's image editing programs. It's very streamlined and there aren't a lot of options for the advanced user. That's good for people new to image editing, but frustrating for those who have a pretty good idea of what they're doing.
Hope this helps!
From my experience, dSLR with bigger sensors is still a better option, if paying for the costly zoom lens is not an issue.
There have been many forums debating on the pros and cons of FZ50 vs Canon S3is, or Canon S3is vs Sony H5. One of the issues appear to be the same as you mentioned " is it worth paying so much more for FZ50 ".
Although I find super zooms attractive, and many a times feel like grabbing one, I ended up buying Nikon D80.
I've heard the H5 also has some problems at the long end of the zoom, with halo edges or similar (in high light).
If you don't have much money to spare, since SLRs are usually very expensive because of the lenses, I suggest the FZ-30 instead of this one -- way cheaper for only 2 MP less.
One "trick" to make the FZ-50 have less noise than the FZ-30 would be to rescale the images to 8 megapixels with some software.
But I definetely think the FZ-30 is worth the cost (I said 30, not FZ-50).
Your Panasonic FZ50 should be able to do the job, otherwise you may wish to try Canon S3is, Sony DCS-H5 or Panasonic FZ7.
FZ50 is claimed to be able to extend the zoom power from 12X to 17.1X at 5 meg setting and from 12 X to 21.4 X at 3 meg setting 'without losing image quality'.
Under normal circumstances, the zoom power of the camera is so good that you probably won't be using this feature often, but it is there should you need it.
It does not affect standard close picture taking and it does not limit you to distance pictures.
While the FZ50 seems like it would probably be the best choice in a consumer level camera, it unfortunately has serious issues with image noise in low light, and with focus-hunting (the time it takes the camera to lock on). These problems would be a major hassle with concert photography.
My feeling is that if you're going to spend the $500+ that a FZ50 would cost, you might as well step up to a low-end dSLR with a kit lens. The Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had with a nice 18-55mm lens for $450. Its big brother, the K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), can be had with the same lens for $540, and it features in-body image stabilization, which will be a huge help in low light.
dSLRs have much, much larger sensors than consumer cameras--the FZ50's sensor, for example, is 7.18 x 5.32mm, compared to the K100D's 23.5 x 15.7mm. In other words, it's 3x as large and host to 4 million fewer pixels (the K100D is 6MP compared to the FZ50's 10MP). This means that each pixel has access to much, much more light, and therefore means that image noise is drastically reduced when shooting in low light.
My recommendation would be to go with the K100D.
Hope this helps!
Later, (if I must) I can crop the extraneous edges (the concrete floor!) in Photoshop.
Rich
ps After a re-read, I now realize that you are dealing with artifacts (no pun). It might not be possible to take these outside of the library? In that case, perhaps you can find a spot indoors with really good ceiling lighting. Or plug in a small table lamp next to the documents??
RAW file format, higher ISO and much more megapixels make the FZ50 better than the S3IS. But it costs more money too. You get what you pay...
You'll probably start to notice noise at 400-800 ISO and higher. I've found that Paint Shop Pro has a decent noise reduction function for photos. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Check out the great user reviews for this camera as well.
Good Luck!
Good Luck.
There are many cameras these days that match or exceed the specs of the HP 945. The Fuji S5200 you've selected above is one of them. Others include the Canon S3 IS, the Sony H5, the Panasonic FZ50, and the Kodak P712.
The Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 6MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It features a nice flip-out & swivel LCD screen, a great macro mode (can focus on things actually touching the lens), and an absolutely beautiful video mode, along with signature smooth and accurate Canon picture quality. It uses AA batteries, which means you can use rechargeable AA NiMHs.
The Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 7MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. Its LCD is fixed, but also huge and of great resolution (3" at 230,000px). Like the Canon, it uses AA batteries (though only 2, where the Canon uses 4). It uses Sony's proprietary memory stick, which might be a turnoff to some.
The Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 10MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It's the only one of these cameras to use a 1/1.8" CCD sensor, though it needs the extra space for all those pixels (the others use a 1/2.5" sensor). It has the feel that's closest to a SLR, and size and weight to match, about 8oz heavier than the next closest. Like most Panasonics, it has issues with excessive image noise in low light, but in good conditions it can produce amazing images. It uses a proprietary lithium ion battery pack.
The Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is nearly identical in its specs to the Sony H5. Users seem to love it, and it's the smallest and lightest of the cameras here. It has a very ergonomic design, and trademark Kodak ease of use. Like all of the cameras here, it's capable of producing very, very good pictures. Like the Panasonic, this camera uses a proprietary battery pack.
You can get a full rundown of these cameras' specs side by side here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ).
There's really no clear recommendation between these cameras. I personally love my Canon S2 IS and would recommend the S3 IS based on that alone, but the truth is that all four of these models are very comparable. I'd recommend going to your local mega-electronics store and trying as many of these as possible in your hands.
Good luck!
I did as you suggested and visited one of our mega-stores prior to posting my question...I intend on returning with your specific suggestions and trying both the Panasonic and Kodak. I tried the other two on my first visit. One thing I noticed right off was the smaller physical size than my HP. I am a man with man hands and both the Cannon and Sony you mention above felt like little toy cameras. Navigating between all the dinky little buttons and controls felt a bit awkward, a condition I suppose I could eventually learn to live with.
Can you shed any light on the Pentax K100D? I haven't found one yet to try it on for size-n-feel but all the other published characteristics seem to fit what I'm looking for.
Thanks again for you help.
The K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a very good camera--probably the best value-oriented entry-level SLR out these days (along with the K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is exactly the same minus the in-camera image stabilization). Being an SLR, you'll be able to buy additional lenses for it, as well as external flashes and other accessories that (with a few exceptions) you couldn't use with the above cameras. The down side is, of course, price. The camera itself is more expensive than the cameras above, and then you factor in the price of additional lenses (the kit lens is good, but you'll eventually want to upgrade) and it's much, much more expensive.
Any dSLR will outclass any non-SLR digital in terms of image quality--it's just a question of how much you want to spend to get that quality.
(You might also want to check out the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which should be in a similar price range with the K100D.)
Hope this helps.
I was unable to find the driver on Panasonic's US site, but I did find one on the Australian site. Check it out here ( panasonic.com.au/products/d... ), at the bottom of the page.
Good luck!
We haven't evaluated it here at DCHQ, but you can find very in-depth reviews of it at dcresource.com ( dcresource.com/reviews/olym... ), dpreview.com ( dpreview.com/reviews/olympu... ), and imaging-resource.com ( imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... ).
Hope this helps!
Good luck!
Some things to note about Olympus.
1) They use a mount called four-thirds which is unique to a few camera manufacturers at the moment. This means you will need a four-thirds compatible lens. Olympus produces kit lenses, (currently the 14-45 and 50-150) which you can purchase with the E-500, and as well, they offer other higher end lenses. Sigma Corporation now also manufactures select lenses for Olympus cameras.
2) The FOV crop factor of the sensor means that any lens you use will effectively seem doubled in focal length. The 14-45 lens will shoot like a 28-90mm lens and the 50mm-150 lens will be a 100-300mm. This is absolutely great if you are looking for longer telephoto ability with your camera but will be something to evaluate on the wider end. There are now a few wider lenses available for the E-500 (the 7-14mm and the 11-22mm so .. 14-28mm and 22-44mm)..
3) There is no battery grip available for the E-500 so if you have larger hands (as I do), you might miss that feature. I get around it, but it would be nice if in the future, somebody came out with a 3rd party grip for it.
Picture quality in the camera is very good. Noise levels at the higher ISO range is more noticeable than Canon for example, but I shoot typically ISO 100-400 so for that, it is most excellent.
The other fact of the Olympus that sells me is the self-cleaning sensor. I have Canons and find myself cleaning the sensors about every 2 months to remove dust specs (which drives me crazy).. I have yet to clean any of my Olympus cameras.
The camera uses compact flash memory which is readily available and the battery system is a BLM1 which is not only available in abundance, but available from third party manufacturers as well which is a cost advantage.
Recommended accessories.. : Olympus FL36 external Flash, carry case, and extra batteries.
Hope this helps.
I really appreciate the information provided and the knowleadge share!
Thank you,
Olger
Iwant to make sure that is Leica.
the Panasonic web page states that the FZ50 has Leica lens.
A better comparison to a Canon would be with the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is in the same class as the FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and FZ7. The A710 IS is a much smaller camera with a much shorter zoom, and isn't really comparable to the Panasonics.
I personally prefer the S3 IS to the Panasonic offerings, as the Panasonics often have issues with high levels of image noise when shooting in low light or at higher ISO settings. On the other hand, I've always been pleased with Canon's image quality, which tends to be very smooth and detailed and usually has very natural color.
Hope this helps!
Make sure the camera is On and set to Playback. If it already is, then I'm wondering if you don't need to install the drivers although you did say that Windows did it. If you bought the camera and it came with a CD, you could try popping it in and downloading those drivers. I'm not sure about this, but I use Windows XP and although the computer automatically recognized my camera I still had to download my drivers before the photos were recognized.
I would say that you might have a bad USB cord or port but since it is finding the camera that is probably not the issue. Let me know if any of those suggestions did any good and if not, I'll keep thinking.
Under USB mode, select PC.
Continue by connecting your camera to the Computer using a USB cable and you should be OK. If this does not work, it may mean you have a lot of yellow question marks under your devices. Clear all of them using the Device Manager.
2. Should you still find it difficult, take the memory card out of the camera and insert the card into a card reader.
Plug the reader directly to the USB port of the computer.
Your computer will recognise the card immediately together with the picture files inside.
3. Download and install Picasa from the internet. It is a freeware from Google.
Run Picasa and all your pictures will be downloaded to the computer automatically by Picasa.
You may view, adjust and print the picture directly from Picasa.
Use a USB port on the back of the computer (sounds silly but worked for me), or swap USB ports, if neither work then the last resort is to turn off your computer and completely switch off the power and leave it for at least 10 mins (30 mins recommended). This will 'reset' the settings of windows to accept the device again. I've had to do this about 4 times before, so there is a problem with removable storage devices and windows XP.
Its worth a try anyway. Good luck.
The K100D is by far the better camera here, and surprisingly it isn't all that much more expensive. The only monetary issue I foresee here is that you'll probably want to invest in more lenses down the line, and lenses can be quite expensive.
Honestly, though, the things you can do with even the worst dSLR (and the K100D isn't even close to the worst--it's really quite good) will outclass ANYTHING you can do with a non-SLR digital. dSLR's larger sensors, full manual controls, and swappable lenses mean that they're in a totally different class. This is not to say that the FZ50 is a bad camera... it's just that comparing the FZ50 to the K100D is like comparing a souped up Honda Civic to a stock Porsche 911. One is a consumer product beefed up to the extreme; the other is a purpose-built performance machine.
You can get a side-by-side comparison of the two cameras' specs here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ), and image galleries from both the K100D ( dpreview.com/gallery/pentax... ) and the FZ50 ( dpreview.com/gallery/panaso... ).
Hope this helps!
Thanks for your quick reply. The kd100 sounds like a better machine and the price makes it even more tempting. How about comparing the Kd100 to the Sony a100? Whatâs your opinion on that?
Thanks for your help.
I've gone for the pentax K100d, it arrived 2 days ago and i used it all day Saturday for a photo shoot. As its my first DSLR i don't have anything to compare it to, but i can say that it is an excellent bit of kit and i really enjoyed using it. Picture quality is excellent and itâs pretty fast. Youâll have to purchase rechargeable 2500 batteries, the boxed ones died after 50 shots with flash.! The only thing Iâm going to miss is the 12x zoom on the fz50 but thatâs not a big issue. All in all Iâm very happy. i read sooo many reviews, the more i read the harder it was to make a decision..! But i went for it. The features included for the price are excellent and picture quality and speed and great..
Both answers were great, thanks
So glad to hear you're happy with your choice!
Hope this helps.
All three of the cameras you've mentioned are great machines. The FZ50 does indeed have an impressive zoom, but I think that here you're making a key mistake. Since you're looking to take product shots, generally pretty close to the camera, what you're looking for is not a long zoom (which lets you get close to things that are far away), but rather a good macro mode (which gets you clear shots of things that are very close to the camera). I think the FZ50 would probably be overkill for this sort of application.
The A630 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and A640 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), however, are more modest (read: cheaper) cameras that will give you just as good (if not better) image quality and also have impressive macro modes. Both models will let you focus on objects that are as little as 1cm from the lens, which is pretty impressive and great for detail shots on clothes and other goods. Aside from their macro abilities, they're among the best-rated cameras on the market.
Hope this helps!
The A640's main advantage over the A630 is 2 additional megapixels, but if you're shooting for the web, this doesn't make any difference for you. I have no hesitation in saying that the A630 will serve your needs just as well as the A640, and at a significantly lower price tag. Go for it. :)
What you're looking for is a camera with an Image Stabilization system (IS). Some companies also refer to this technology as VR (for "vibration reduction"). Typically this is accomplished either by gyroscopes that move the lens to compensate for movement by your hand, or by a mechanism that moves the imaging sensor (aka the CCD).
Some of the best long zoom cameras with IS systems are:
Canon's S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Panasonic's FZ7 and FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Kodak's P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
All of these have 10x or 12x optical zooms paired with very good Image Stabilization systems.
To your definition questions: a "megapixel" is a million pixels (the tiny dots which digital photos are made up of), so the more megapixels, the larger the image on your screen and the larger you can print those images; a "SLR" is a single lens reflex camera--you can recognize them primarily by the fact that they have removable lenses and by their huge price tags--they range from serious amateur to pro equipment; the letters after model names are pretty arbitrary, but sometimes (as in the case of the S2 IS and S3 IS) they mean something... it's pretty hard to tell sometimes.
Hope this helps!
According to this in-depth review ( dcresource.com/reviews/pana... ) of the camera, the minimum focusing distance at full telephoto is 2 meters, but you can buy an accessory close-up lens ( www2.panasonic.com/webapp/w... ) that lowers the focal distance to 40cm. Hope this helps!
There are several cameras that I can recommend in this range. In fact, there's a whole group of "ultrazoom" cameras that fit your criteria almost perfectly.
Among them are: the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (~$370) (and the slightly older S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) [~$280]), the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) ($390), the Panasonic FZ7 (~$300) and FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (~$500), and the Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (~$380).
These are all fine cameras. I personally own the S2 IS and love it a lot. It's generally rated a little better than the S3 IS (it's pretty much the same camera, specs-wise, with the major addition of one extra megapixel). Users also seem to really like the Sony H5, but I personally have no experience with it.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Hope that helped.
2) Is the view finder of the FZ50 optical or LCD?
The FZ50's viewfinder is an EVF (electronic viewfinder, or mini-LCD). It's a very good one, though, at 235,000 pixels (that's actually more pixels than the large LCD display).
As to the main LCD's brightness, dpreview.com's review calls it "bright, clear and fast moving", and also "very slightly better in low light" (than the predecessor FZ30). The review also goes on to mention that "in very bright direct sunlight it's as difficult to see as any other screen." No surprise there. My instinct is to tell you that it's just fine and you should love it, but I haven't heard many complaints about the S3 IS's screen either, so I hesitate to give it the stamp of approval for you. I'd recommend trying to find one in a store so you can get some hands-on experience before you leap.
Good luck!
I started looking for the FZ30 which gets a very good review from Steve's digicams but I haven't been able to find one on diplay, gosh, you can hardly find one on the internet.
Thanks,
Karl
Depending on your budget and if your daughter is cheering indoors and out, you'll want an extended zoom camera with a fast lens (low f/stop setting) would be better for you than a dSLR camera. High ISO settings will also help with low lighting in a gym or auditorium. An extended zoom camera ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will be easier on your budget than a dSLR/url] as well.
Something like the [url=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... FZ30 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good purchase, and the $420 price tag isn't a huge dent for a good digital camera. It has 12x optical zoom (digital zoom will reduce the quality of photos), 10.1 megapixels for good 8x10 printing, an ISO range that goes up to 3200 (great for indoor shots), and image stabilization. It meets all your specs and has a fold out LCD for shooting without the viewfinder. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Yes, it is. You shouldn't have any problems.
Good luck!
My choices are the Canon SD 900, Canon Powershot G7, Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50, Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2.
I do want the camera to be around 8+ MP, be able to shoot video (I seem to be fond of the ones that do the 'HD' videos), it seems RAW format may be important? I also perhaps may want to keep my options open in terms of getting add ons if I choose to pursue this further, yet I don't know if some of these cameras are too big if I plan on traveling quite a bit, especially places that are rainy.
I am open to other suggestions as well for digital cameras. My price range is around ~600 maximum for now.
The cameras you've chosen are all very good machines, but they're also sort of all over the digital camera map. The SD900 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is an ultracompact camera--very tiny, very powerful, but lacking in some of the manual controls/settings that the other, larger cameras you've selected have.
The LX2 is an interesting choice. It's a pretty unique camera, in that it offers both a 16:9 aspect ratio widescreen sensor (the only camera that does so) and a HD video recording mode. You should be aware, though, that the HD recording mode can only shoot at 15 frames per second (as opposed to the standard 30fps), which means that the HD video, while huge, will also be jerky. Furthermore, the LX2 has questionable image quality, despite its slick design and great features.
The G7 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a mid-sized, semi-bulky digital that packs a whole lot of punch, but that punch comes at what many consider to be too much cost. As a successor to the much-loved G5 and G6 models, it falls a little short, but it's a fine camera for sure.
The FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a member of what's known as the ultrazoom class of digitals--it features SLR-like styling (a large, bulky body with a SLR-like but fixed external lens casing) and a 12x image-stabilized zoom. It also offers a 10 megapixel sensor, but as the dpreview.com review ( dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... ) of the camera put it, it "stretches its sensor to almost breaking point and compensates for the lack of sensitivity in anything but the brightest conditions by using excessive noise reduction." In other words, while it's the most feature-packed of the cameras you've selected, it might not produce the best image.
Really, which camera is best for you will depend much on what you want and how you want to use it. I don't think any of these cameras are too big for travel, assuming you don't mind carrying a small bag. None of them offer a very usable HD video mode, but most have very nice 640x480, 30fps modes. One thing you should consider is whether you're planning to simply point and shoot, or if you want to mess with manual settings and get artsy with your photography. If you're looking for simple point and shoot photography, the SD900 or LX2 may be the better choices; if you want to really get into manual photography, the G7 and FZ50 are more in line with your needs.
If you can develop a more specific idea of what you want, I can try to help you further. Let me know, and good luck!
Thanks for the responses. The video taking ability is the least important feature for me I guess.
In the past I have just used point and shoot. I would like to have some manual control. The LX2 is the one I am most leaning towards, but the questions about its image quality is making me hesitant.
The main point on the SD 900 for me is that there is no image stabilization plus the LX2 has a much wider angle capabilities, thus seems better to me atleast from just looking at features.
The FZ50 is one I just saw today and seemed like an interesting option.
The G7 seemed like a good option because it was not as big as the FZ50, but still I could purchase the add on to get wide angle etc if I wanted to later, but I have read that it may be a bit expensive for what I am getting. Also, it does not have RAW, and I am a pretty techincal person when it comes to computer so I probably would wnt to edit pictures etc so having this mode may be helpful? Plus this model would be easier for me to take traveling to places like India.
My goal would be to get a camera that could perhaps grow as I start getting more into photography and one that could last.
Thus as of now I am leaning towards the LX2 and have researched so many cameras that I think I am confusing myself now with all the reviews out there.
I don't know how important MP but any suggestions would be great on these or other cameras which I have overlooked.
Personally, I think the LX2 has the most interesting feature set, and I like both its widescreen sensor and its wide-angle lens. You can take a look at some sample images taken with the camera [url=dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... and see if you can see the problems with the image quality that the reviewers are talking about. I have to say it looks fine to me for the average user, but of course at full size the problems with noise reduction and image smear might be more apparent.
If you're already leaning toward the LX2, I'd recommend buying it from a reputable retailer with a return policy you can trust, try it out and see if you like it. If you do, keep it. If you don't, return it and try something else. That way at least you'll know.
Good luck!
One problem with wide screen photos is the amount of distortion that appears.
The lamp post and Westminster Clock bends heavily.
Another is that humans FOCUS their BRAINS on one central subject and wide screen pictures attempt to bring too much information into the frame.
Photography is an art form and other artists will have different preferences and ideals which are just as correct.
LX2 looks to be good camera but I purchased the FZ50 about 3 weeks back and believe me the pictures that I have clicked are 80% very good..I would suggest you FZ50 if you dont want to go to the SLR group - the Zoom and the picture clarity are its plus points, If you can provide me your email address I can send you a few photos Ive clicked with it....and Im still a learner
First of all, I wouldn't recommend purchasing a Nikon Coolpix 8400 this late in the game. The camera is well over two years old at this point and has been replaced by many better cameras. The reason the prices you're seeing for it are so high are probably owing to the fact that it's no longer in production (scarcity = value, I guess).
If you're looking for a SLR-like camera, the class leaders right now include the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All of these cameras feature long (usually 12x) optically stabilized zooms, at least six megapixels, and tons of manual controls. Each is under $500. I'd check them out instead of considering the 8400. Good luck!
Any non-SLR digital camera is going to have some issues with image noise at high ISO settings, which you're going to have to use to get crisp shots indoors/at night. The FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/FZ30 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are probably on par with the H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) in this department, possibly a little worse when it comes to noise. You can compare the noise each camera produces in low light situations here ( dcresource.com/reviews/sony... ) (H5), here ( dcresource.com/reviews/pana... ) (FZ50), and here ( dcresource.com/reviews/pana... ) (FZ30). Hope this helps!
For really effective sports photos you're probably going to have to invest in a digital SLR. That way you can control all the settings and change lenses as needed to deal with those challenging conditions (dark, faraway, etc.)
I've used some "non-high speed" cards on an 8MP card with no issues. You will get a faster transfer with the faster card, but I doubt it will take 13 seconds. Another way to save is to browse through a bid site like eBay ( search.ebay.com/search/sear... ). I've seen the ScanDisk Ultra II card for around $20 there. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
As I wrote in your earlier thread:
13 seconds sounds like a ridiculous exaggeration by any standard, and $130 for any 2gb SD card is a huge ripoff. I'd check sites like newegg.com or even amazon.com for much more reasonable deals. Take a look at <a href="newegg.com/Product/Custrati... one</a>, for example.
It sounds to me like the salesperson is trying to scam you. I'd avoid whichever store that was entirely and do your shopping from reputable internet merchants. I've personally used both newegg and amazon with great results.
Good luck!
Unfortunately I don't know of any instructional services like that. You might want to take a look at this page ( dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... ) from dpreview.com's review of the camera, as it details the functions of each button/menu on the camera. Checking other pro reviews will probably also be helpful, as they tend to go into great detail about how various menu systems work. Check steves-digicams.com and dcresource.com.
Hope this helps!
These are both good cameras. For what you want to do, I would recommend the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) for the ISO 3200 setting alone. At that level, you'll find the performance far better than the max of ISO 800 on the Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). At ISO 3200, you will get 4 times as much light in than a ISO 800 setting. Another benefit of the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is the 10.1 megapixel resolution. The image stabilization will help in both the low light settings and high zoom use. For clearer photos, I recommend not using the digital zoom at all (it will lower the clarity of the shot). If you need more zoom, you can find zoom lens converters on eBay ( cgi.ebay.com/3X-TELEPHOTO-L... ). Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
Between the two, I'm going to put in a vote for the Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Although, as Andrew mentions, the Panasonic does have a much higher ISO, it's my opinion that the Panasonic has an issue with grainy photos once you get above ISO 400 or so. If you're going to be shooting lots of low light, I honestly don't think all those high ISO numbers on the Panasonic are going to be realistically usable. Most reviews say to "avoid using high ISO if at all possible" or something to that extent. It does have noise reduction built-in, but personally I think it causes the images to look too splotchy and isn't really an improvement.
This is what's hard about choosing a camera. Just because one has more features or more controls and looks better on paper, doesn't mean it operates "better" or that you'll prefer its photos. Image quality is tricky.
With that in mind, the better image quality of the Kodak is of course my opinion. The Panasonic takes gorgeous photos below ISO 400, but if your main area of concentration is low light you may want to look for some sample images before you buy it.
I think the clear choice for best ultrazoom camera is the Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which unsurprisingly has the DCHQ Editor's Choice award for Most Powerful Extended Zoom Camera. It's fast, ruggedly built, and has a feature set that no other camera in its class can match, not even the more popular Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which are both also very good cameras, no doubt).
The FZ50 has a 12x optically stabilized zoom, a very nice 10 megapixel sensor, allows for both JPEG and RAW capture, has a full manual mode to rival some SLRs, and it comes in at under $500.
Hope this helps!
Canon is the brand that includes flip-out LCDs most often, and my first impulse was to recommend you the PowerShot A630/A640, but they only sport 4x zooms. To get both the long zoom and the flip out LCD I think you're going to have to step up to a bigger, more advanced class of camera. The Canon PowerShot S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) features both the flip-out screen and a 12x optical zoom (optical image stabilization, too). Its main competitor in class, the Panasonic <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... FZ50</a>, also features a flip-out LCD and 12x stabilized zoom.
Hope this helps!
This isn't just a plain old point and shoot camera; it can do a lot of great things if you're into photography and want to learn how to use all the features. So it's a great all-around choice.
However, this camera shoots up to 10MP for photographs which looks nice and sharp even in poster size. Hope that helps.
Thanks very much for taking the time to answer my question. The camera does take beautiful pictures!
Of the cameras you've mentioned, I'd suggest looking more closely at the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Panasonic FZ50. These are the de facto class leaders in the super-zoom category, along with the Sony CyberShot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Personally, I think the FZ50 is unbeatable in its class/price range. One thing you might want to do is go to a local electronics superstore and try as many of these as possible in-hand. Many times it's the way a camera feels and handles in-hand that is the best way to decide which camera is best for you. You'll get to play with their menu systems, try their various shooting modes, see how quickly they respond, and most importantly you'll get to see the kind of images you'll get from them. You should bear in mind that inside a store, probably with fluorescent lighting, you won't get the best quality images from these cameras. These will perform best outside in good light, so when you test them out in-store, judge them against each other and not against your ideal of a good photo. Hope this helps, and if you narrow it down to two or three cameras that you're definitely interested in, you should respond back here and I'll try to give you some more specific recommendations. Good luck!
The S3 is also a good camera to "grow with"- the Canon menus are simple to use, and you can set things to Manual as you learn how to control them yourself, or just leave it on Auto and let the camera do the work. A great all-around camera.
I don't think you should have any reservations selecting the FZ50 from among its peers. It is by far the most powerful camera in its class. I myself have used it, Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and Canon's S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which is by all accounts extremely similar to the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), if not a little superior on the image front). The FZ50 was a pleasure to use, and felt the most solid and SLR-like in my hands. I didn't notice any problems with noise that detracted significantly from its use, and definitely not any greater noise than I saw on the other models I mentioned.
That said, under your $600 limit there are several digital SLRs (with kit lens) that you might want to consider. The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had for $578 (with lens) at Amazon. The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) can be had for a similar price (cheaper with a shorter range lens). The Canon Rebel XT (350D) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also in this range. Without a lens, each of these cameras is under $500 (some close to $400) and you can probably find decent used lenses on eBay and the like. Of course, with a memory card and other accessories (not to mention inevitable extra lenses) you'll end up over $600 eventually, but it's something worth considering. Finally, the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (same as the K100D, minus built-in image stabilization) is an incredible $432 after a $50 rebate at Amazon, with lens.
All of that said... if you want to stay out of the SLR realm, the FZ50 is a fantastic choice.
Good luck!
If you're asking about the pixels' relationship with image quality, that depends on several things. First of all, dSLRs will always provide better image quality than non SLRs because their imaging sensors are much, much larger. A typical 6MP sensor in a non-SLR, for example, is about 5.76 x 4.29mm. Meanwhile, the 6MP sensor on the K100D is 23.5 x 15.7mm (basically 4x as large). What this means is that each pixel receptor is given more room and therefore more light, which means lower image noise and the ability to capture higher quality images at high ISO sensitivities.
Furthermore, higher megapixel numbers doesn't necessarily imply better image quality. Sometimes, manufacturers will cram more pixels onto the same size sensor (for example, putting 8 million pixels onto a sensor the same size as the non-SLR 6MP sensor above). This does the opposite of what the SLRs' larger sensors do, increasing noise at higher ISO sensitivities and generally lowering image quality. The main advantage of higher resolution in consumer digitals is the ability to make larger prints.
In short, I wouldn't worry about it too much, so long as the image quality is good.
13 seconds sounds like a ridiculous exaggeration by any standard, and $130 for any 2gb SD card is a huge ripoff. I'd check sites like newegg.com or even amazon.com for much more reasonable deals. Take a look at this one ( newegg.com/Product/Custrati... ), for example.
It sounds to me like the salesperson is trying to scam you. I'd avoid whichever store that was entirely and do your shopping from reputable internet merchants. I've personally used both newegg and amazon with great results.
Good luck!
Unfortunately, there aren't really any digital SLRs out there that match your specifications. The lowest price you'll find for a new (non-clearance) SLR is $550-600. These will, if you're lucky, come with a 18-55mm lens (wide angle to mild telephoto). Unfortunately, the real sticking point here is that no (and I mean absolutely no) digital SLR includes a movie mode. This is because of the way SLRs work--a mirror reflects the image you're seeing to the viewfinder and flips up when you press the shutter release. Since SLRs have no live preview LCD, and since you can't see anything through the viewfinder when the shutter is open, you would have no idea what you're filming with a dSLR in movie mode. There's a good discussion of this problem here ( dcresource.com/forums/archi... ). So, in short, no movie modes on dSLRs.
However, there's a whole class of digital cameras that are "SLR-like", a term that's generally used in relation to their size/shape and range of manual controls. These often have huge zooms, optically stabilized lenses, tons of manual options, and so on. In terms of movie modes, the best of these is Canon's S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which features 640x480 movies at 30fps. The video quality is seriously amazing, and you can zoom in and out while recording. The only downside is that video recording is limited to 1gb files, which equals about 9 minutes of footage at the highest video quality setting.
Other cameras to consider are Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), Panasonic's FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and Fuji's S9000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Good luck!
thanks.
oh, that would not be long enough, 9 min's. i will look at the others. thanks
suzy
For christmas, i am getting my daughter a digital camera. She is a competitive horse back rider and loves to take pictures of her friends riding. She needs a camera that can be VERY fast to take a pix of a horse over the jump. The camera doesnt HAVE to fit into her pocket but it may not be humungous! The camera must have a HUGE zoom also because you are not close to the horses jumping AT ALL sometimes. I am having troubles finding a camera--even looking for one! Please help!!! ASAP for this present is for xmas and i need to ge it ASAP since we are leaving early on vacation.
Thanks so much
linda luster
If zoom is a high priority, I'd recommend the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (or its slightly older brother, the S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )). It's got a 12x optically-stabilized zoom lens, which means that it will try to compensate for any hand movement that might happen while taking shots. In good light it can produce great images very quickly indeed. Burst mode shooting will allow it to capture images at 2.3 frames per second for well over 30 shots at full resolution--perfect for making sure you get that great shot of the horse going over the jump. It's not the smallest camera--in fact it's pretty large for a non-SLR--but it's not going to turn anyone into a hunchback either. In short, it's a great camera that gets great images on full auto, but will also allow you to grow as a photographer via its manual settings.
If you'd prefer a non-Canon camera, there are several competitive models from other companies like Sony (H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) and Panasonic (FZ7, FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )). They're very nearly as good as the Canon, have a similar feature set, and carry a similar price tag. Good luck!
At the moment, the only flashes the FZ50 officially supports are the Panasonic-branded flashes listed here ( www2.panasonic.com/webapp/w... ). I googled my heart out trying to find some information on whether anyone has attempted to use the FZ50 with the Sigma EF-430, but I couldn't find anything, even in the poorly-translated german and spanish forums. What I would suggest, if you don't want to wait till your FZ50 arrives, is to take the flash into your local electronics superstore and try it out with the demo FZ50. If you can wait till the camera shows up, you can certainly try it with your own FZ50--it shouldn't damage either device. Good luck!
The cameras you've mentioned are all serious contenders, but I would say that in the non-SLR class, the clear winner is Panasonic's Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Following that link you'll find a little debate over wildlife photography (one negative comment and one rebuttal), but overall the feature set on the FZ50 outclasses the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Fuji offerings by a country mile.
That said, if you want true manual control, additional lenses, and really stunning image quality you're going to want to bump up a price class to the digital SLR range. The cameras mentioned previously are all under $500 (some are even under $300). Once you step up to the SLRs, though, you're talking $600+. Of course, for your money you also get a substantial increase in quality and options.
Most digital SLRs can use lenses from film SLR cameras. This means that if you've been shooting on film with Canon lenses, you can buy a Canon dSLR and snap those babies right on. There are several new entry-level dSLRs that would appeal to the wildlife photographer. Among these are the Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which features image stabilization built into the body), the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). All of these cameras come in under $1000 with a kit lens, and all of them are compatible with their brand's film autofocus lenses (the Sony accepts Konica-Minolta lenses).
Hope this helps!
If she's a photo major and she wants to go pro eventually, you'll probably want to get her a dSLR. There are several good entry-level dSLRs on the market right now, including the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Sony A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Any of them would be a good start, and all are under $1000 with a starter (kit) lens. Of course, when you factor in memory cards and additional lenses you'll probably end up at or over $1000 in the long run.
If you're not into spending that much money at the moment, there are many "SLR-like" digitals that offer excellent manual controls, long zooms, and great optics. The class leader among these is the Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), with the Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) coming in close behind. All of these cameras feature optical image stabilization and 10x+ optical zoom, as well as a bevy of manual options (ISO, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, etc). You can buy adapters to fit select custom add-on lenses to these models, but they don't come close to the versatility of the dSLR's detachable lens design. They also don't match the dSLRs in the clarity of their photos or their range (low light capability, extremely low shutter lag, powerful burst mode, RAW/TIFF capability).
If it's a question of money, you can go with the FZ50 or one of its competitors and then later on, your daughter can pick up a decent film SLR used for a very reasonable price (they're dropping like crazy as digitals take over the market). If $1000 is within your range (and these dSLRs can go as low as $600 with kit lens), a dSLR is the way to go here. Good luck!
The D40 is a good entry-level digital SLR. You might also want to look into the Pentax K110D, which you can currently get at Amazon for $432 after a $50 rebate. That's $432 with a kit lens (18-55mm). It's about the cheapest deal you'll find for getting into the SLR range.
Good luck!
I intend to get the D40 very soon.
You're going to want to hit the "menu" button to go to the REC menu. Scroll down to PICT SIZE to change the size of the picture, and QUALITY to change the sharpness of the photo. The 10M size will be the largest, giving you the greatest use of your megapixel capabilities. In the QUALITY section, the FINE setting will give the highest quality photo as well. If you select the RAW mode, you need conversion software on your computer, but you will get even larger photos for printing. Note that setting your photos to larger sizes and better quality will cause them to take up more space on your memory cards. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I have done what you suggest several times; I have changed both the quality and the picture size to various settings. The file size does change as expected, however, the resolution is still 72 ppi regardless. What I want to do is keep the picture size the same with more pixels per inch - giving a higher resolution and therefore a clearer and finer quality to the resulting photo. Any thoughts?
Will
I don't use the Panasonic-supplied software. For simple editing, like cropping and resizing, freeware programs are more than adequate. XnView <xnview.com> is very good, as is Irfan View <irfanview.com>.
XnView, you would open the image, then select Image>Set DPI from the main menu. When you increase the resolution, the print size will automatically decrease. I generally print at 300 dpi, which produces excellent prints. For proofs, I'll go as low as 150 dpi.
The thing to remember is that the size setting determines the image's dimensions, in pixels, while the quality setting determines the file size by varying the compression of the image information. Lower quality = more compression = more files on your card = less detailed images.
Page 88 of the FZ50 manual gives the image dimensions for the various image sizes and aspect ratios. Divide the dimensions by the print resolution you want, in dots per inch, to calculate the maximum size print you can make, in inches.
George
BTW it's much simpler in Photo Shop.
Jeff
forums.dpreview.com/forums/...
If you get a camera with external flash capabilities, you'll find your flash recycle is a lot better. You can get a dSLR ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which all take external flashes, or choose from a few extended zoom cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) that have the capability like the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Fuji S9000 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). They have a variety of capabilities and prices. You might want to see what will be the best fit for you. A good external flash can cost up around $200.
Andrew
There are point and shoots with internal flashes out there that perform a LOT better. If you want to know the flash recycle time of a specific camera, here's what I do:
-Go to www.google.com
-Type in the name of the camera plus "flash recycle time"
-Check out the links that come up. You should be able to pull reviews, timing tests and other things that will help you. Here's an example (on the A710):
google.com/search?hl=en&... the website www.imaging-resource.com does timed tests of digital cameras, including flash recycle time, and for the most part their tests seem to be on par with the camera's performance, pretty reliable results. So that's a good site to bookmark.
Good luck.
I am considering the CanonA710 IS, but that may be "too much camera" for me.
There's a decent start for a list here ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) but as it says it's by no means comprehensive. The list essentially picks the best offerings from each class of image stabilized cameras for you. For instance, there are several Canon and Sony cameras that compete quite well with the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) that appears on the list.
The A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is unlikely to be too much camera for anyone, unless they're looking for an ultra-slimline camera. Tech-wise, it offers a very easy-to-use automatic mode that even the newest of newbies could handle. And, on top of that, it allows you to customize just about every setting if you should so choose, so there's room to grow.
Good luck!
The quickest way to see if a camera has image stabilization? If there's one you're considering, go to google.com and type in the camera name with the words "image stabilization." What you pull up (reviews, user opinions, etc.) will quickly tell you in a glance whether that particular camera has that feature or not.
For example, a search for ultra-compacts with image stabilization and rechargeable batteries maxed out at 10 results. When I specified a street price of less than $200, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX3 popped up as the only candidate.
I've found that the site's listings of camera specs are very accurate, and their reviews are very thorough.
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"- are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just one or two days. Good luck!
The <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... P712</a> might be a good choice.
<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... our list of extended zoom cameras with ratings. Hope that helps.
I'm not sure I need full control over the shutter or LCD delays - the action happens so fast, I just want to point slightly ahead of where they're going and catch them when they get there. We're talking milliseconds, so no time for fiddling. I'll check into the Kodak P712 and the list you linked to. Thanks again!
The Kodaks have fast reaction time (shutter lag etc.) which is also why I mentioned the P712. Let us know if you need further advice and good luck!
Thanks again!!
Pentax claims that all K-mount lenses will work with the K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Yes, ALL. Non-AF K-mount lenses have to be used in manual mode, obviously, but that's not a problem for most people.
I don't know much about older lenses, so I don't know if the Ranger lens you mention here is K-mount, but I'm guessing not. Many screw-mount (M42) lenses can also be used with the Pentax dSLRs with an adapter. They can also be used with just about any other brand of dSLR, as there are adapters made for most of them.
Sorry, this response is kind of jumbled. Maybe someone who knows more about your particular lens will come along. :)
Between the FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the [url=]S9600[/url] I'd definitely go for the FZ50. It's an extremely solid camera and very well-rated by users and pros alike.
Good luck!
The K100D is no doubt a better camera than the FZ50, but it's also quite a bit pricier and is going to probably convince you to spend even more money on lenses for it down the line. Bottom line: if I had the money to spend on it, I'd certainly choose it over the FZ50.
One thing you might want to do is take your lens into a camera store that has a K100D on display and see if it will mount. Most stores will allow you to do this under the supervision of a trained employee. It's the surest way to know if it works. :)
Be aware that the 200mm will be 350mm equivalent (due to smaller chip) + there is a small shift with the ring as well
pentax.ca/digital/digital_s... the basic 18-55 lens is one of the top in the kit lenses
Considering the above models, what would you recommend as matching teleobjectives for birding
Many thanks in advance for your kind help!
Greg (beginner in photography)
PS: I'm already using a Canon Powershot S80 for macro photography and look for something that would complete my equipment.
Both the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) are fine cameras. The Sony's anti-shake technology IS nice, and it's a big benefit that it automatically applies to every lens you use with the camera. The Rebel XTi DOES eke out a small victory on image quality, especially at higher ISO sensitivities (the Sony is iffy above ISO 400). Between these two it's a pretty close race, and I'd have to recommend that you go to a store where you can try both cameras in-hand, as this is usually the best way to make a tough call.
The FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is of an entirely different class of cameras, as I'm sure you know. It's going to save you several hundred dollars over the other two, but it'll cost you in terms of options down the road. The SLRs can be fit with any number of kinds of lenses, while the FZ50 leaves you stuck with pretty much what you started with. Not that what you start with on the FZ50 isn't good--it's just not nearly as good as what you get from the SLRs. Consider that the FZ50 is packing 10 megapixels into 7.18 x 5.32 mm, while the Canon is working with 22.2 x 14.8 mm and the Sony adds another mm in each dimension. The image quality from such a small sensor just can't compare.
What you have to decide is whether the extra few hundred dollars is worth sacrificing in order to get that extra jump in image quality and the unlimited potential that SLRs bring.
Good luck!
Cheers
Greg
User reviews at this point seem to indicate that the FZ50 is definitely the superior camera. However, it's still very early in the S9600's life cycle and both pro and user reviews are scarce at this point. I think you'll have to wait a little while longer before any kind of definite critical consensus is available. Sorry!
My choice was Lumix FZ50!! Because for me was important a lighter wight (and it is due to Lithium battery).. I like how objective works while zooming.. all the elements stay inside the cover.. (no dust gets into it).. I like the LCD that is not only flipping out, but also rotating.. Fuji s9600 is missing all these things.. :)
This was my choice in 19th June this summer.. and I am very satisfied.. I love also an AE/AF lock, that is a must have for me in camera (my previous and still kicking Sony DSC-V1 also had it).. in Lumiz Fz50 it works in 3 combinations - AE Lock - AE/AF Lock - AF Lock.. (I love to use AE Lock in combination with point metering.. )
I could go on with my list.. :D Good luck in your choice! ;)
I have a couple of questions for you before I can start making recommendations.
1. What are you looking to spend? Perhaps moreso than with film cameras, the money you spend really determines the quality of photos you can take with digitals. Lower-end SLRs will run you between $600 and $1000. Prosumer cameras with fixed lenses but lots of bells and whistles will range between $250 and $600. And then there are consumer cameras like the one you already have, which can go anywhere from $100 to $500.
2. What will you primarily be using the camera for? Are you a hobbyist, or do you mainly take photos of family events or snapshots of friends, etc?
3. Do you care about size/portability? Does the camera need to fit in your pocket?
If you answer these questions, I can better help you narrow down your choices. Thanks!
The answer to your first question is about $600 and might not even be able to be that much I am trying to get my mom and uncle to split the price for my christmas. I am a student in college now so I can not aford it yet.
The answer to question two. I am definatly a hobbyist but, I also take pictures of family events and of my friends. Recently I took the photographs for my Grandparents 25th anniversary I really enjoy nature pictures but I also like taking portraits, and snapping pictures of people just walking or acting nature in a common setting. I have taken photo 1 but, this semester and the semesters following I am not going to have any time and I don't want to stop b/c I really love taking pictures. Basically I want one for everything one I can take fun pictures with and one I can put on a tripod and take pictures of the beach or whatever.
The answer to question 3 yes I care about size I want to be able to print pretty big. No it does not matter the size of the camera of coarse I dont want one to heavy to carry around hiking or whatever but it does not have to fit into my pocket just have a strap and a bag or be able to fit into a camera bag ya know.
Hopefully I made it easier for you to answer my question Thank you so much for your help.
I have three choices of cameras I have found so far maybe you can help tell me if they are good or not.
1. Canon EOS 30D
2. Canon Digital Rebel XTi/canon 400D
3. Canon Digital Rebel XT/Canon 350D
Thank you!
My recommendation in general, like when you put these cameras side by side and ask which one is best, is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... I am constantly amazed at the photo quality and flexibility and wish I was marrying rich so I could buy it for everyone I know. However, I can see that this is somewhat out of the price range you're thinking and it's also a pretty darned heavy duty camera for your first 'real' digital.
Because of that, my recommendation for you in particular is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... XTI</a>- the instruction manual is a little hazy, but in general this camera is user friendly for newbies yet gives good enough results for professionals. But, you have to promise that you'll learn how to use all the settings. It's a lot more fun that way and you'll get much better results.
I'm sure Ben will have some good advice for you too!
First of all, the cameras you've mentioned are all excellent cameras, but you'll be very lucky to get them for under $600. Any price you find under $600 is probably going to be from a shady New York-based "grey market" site--whatever you do, do not do business with them. Reasonable prices for these cameras from reliable stores are as follows: 30D should be about $1150, 400D should be about $775-800 (with lens), and the 350D can be had as cheap as the $600 mark.
These cameras are all digital SLRs (single lens reflex cameras), which means that unlike the vast majority of digital cameras, they have removable lenses, real optical viewfinders, and can snap photos just as quickly as film SLRs. They generally have very little or no shutter lag, can shoot to uncompressed file formats like RAW and TIFF, and offer advanced manual controls that no non-SLR camera can match.
They're also a serious investment, especially when you get the urge to experiment with new lenses, which usually end up costing several arms and legs. They are pretty large (larger than any non-SLRs) and they usually require a camera bag, especially if you have more than one lens.
So, what you need to do is take a step back and decide what kind of camera you really want. A SLR will provide you with unlimited potential and opportunity, but it's also a serious investment of both money (probably over a thousand, eventually, with lenses and accessories) and time (to learn all of its functions/settings and how to best use them), and it won't be the easiest to just pick up and take with you any and everywhere. If you go with a non-SLR you'll be sacrificing some of that potential for convenience. You can get any number of SLR-like cameras that are smaller, cheaper, and capable of producing very nice photos--just not quite as sharp and lifelike as their big brethren.
Cameras in this upper non-SLR range generally offer long, image-stabilized zooms, tons of manual control, and the option to fit on a select few external lenses via a lens adapter. Canon (S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), Sony (H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )), and Panasonic (FZ7, FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) are pretty much the class leaders, but there are also quality offerings from Kodak and Fuji. I personally own the predecessor to the S3 IS, the S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which I can attest to being capable of some really stunning images.
I'm sorry that I can't really offer you a clear-cut answer here (just more questions!), but I don't want to see you saddled with a camera that isn't right for what you want and need. Hope it helps. :)
Neither the S3 IS or the XTi offer a printer dock accessory, but both are PictBridge compatible. PictBridge is an industry-standard technology that allows you to print directly from a camera to a printer (via the USB cable), entirely bypassing the computer middleman. There are hundreds of PictBridge printers and I'm not really all that familiar with them, unfortunately, but I can say from personal experience that Canon's printers are, in general, very good. Hope this helps!
chris
If your wife is a serious photographer, the camera should be about 1/2 to 1/3 of the initial budget; the first lens or two should be another 1/3 to 1/2 the budget, and assuming there's any left over, memory cards, spare batteries, flash, tripod, camera bag, airplane tickets to exotic locations and so on should cover the rest. Ok, maybe the airfare is separate :-)
If your wife is really interested in photography, an SLR digital is the first stop. There are some cameras that are reasonably good alternatives to SLRs such as the Sony CyberShot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and others. Most of the Advanced Digital Cameras ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will take a perfectly reasonable photograph, if the conditions are right; an SLR such as the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will make it possible to take a really great photo, even in less than ideal conditions. However, SLRs are certainly more of a pain to use, if only because they tend to be larger, and more expensive.
So if your wife is very interested in photography, or already has a film SLR, or is doing this as a hobby, an SLR and a good lens that fits the camera is the way to go. If she is more interested in getting a great shot, actually almost any reasonably good camera these days will do. Except at the lowest price range you'll get good print quality and if you avoid the very small cameras you'll tend to get good optics. SLRs will be quicker and more versatile, but the Advanced or the larger Extended Zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) cameras will have nice features to help make for a good shot.
Look for the Editors' Choice, or if a camera has been around a few month, look for high user ratings. Few cameras are out-and-out bad these days; mostly people are giving bad ratings to cameras that fail to meet their expectations.
So with that said, consider the cameras I have mentioned, and one other, the Panasonic FZ-50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) -- all good and well rated cameras.
If you have more details about what your wife might want, post a reply and we'll see if we can help narrow things down better.
thanks for the help
chris
Having said that, if she only wants to get one lens to start with that's a reasonable catchall for landscapes and portraits then something in the range of 18 - 75mm (approx) would suffice.
The Canon <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... IS</a> will do quite well with outdoor action photography in good light. The long, stabilized zoom would be very helpful with shooting airplanes in flight, though you may find their focus lag to be a small bump in the road. In my experience (I own an S2 IS), they take up to half a second to "lock on" to their subject if it's a significant distance away. You'll have to learn to anticipate your shot a little, something you wouldn't have to do with a film or digital SLR.
The picture quality, however, is fantastic, and they both have tons of manual control features to help you get the best out of your rig.
There are several cameras that are similar to the S2 and S3 (huge, stabilized zoom) that you might want to consider. Panasonic offers their Lumix FZ-series (<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... and Sony offers the CyberShot H-series (<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
Another concern is dynamic range. Under some circumstances, the FZ50 will have trouble with handling the extremes of a black tuxedo and white gown without losing detail in either the highlights or shadows compared to a DSLR. As far as prosumer cams go, the Sony R1 has a larger sensor and might be better at handling the dynamic range.
[url=]digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
Megapixels are often used sort of unscrupulously by advertisers to hook consumers. While it's true in general that more megapixels is better, they aren't the end-all-be-all of digital photography. First of all, in recent model years many manufacturers have turned to a practice called "pixel cramming." This means that when they release a new model, they simply force more pixels onto the same size sensor chip, which results in higher digital "noise" in the pictures. However, the right resolution paired with a correctly-sized chip will of course result in beautiful pictures. The principal advantage of higher-megapixel cameras is the ability to make large prints of photos while retaining fine detail, and this is crucial for the kind of landscape photography you're talking about.
I think that zoom is more important than megapixels here, though. Mega-zoom cameras (generally 10x optical or greater) truly allow you to get up close and capture that detail that the megapixels will eventually record. You want to make sure that you stay away from digital zoom, as it will distort your pictures far more badly than any pixel cramming ever could. Look for cameras with large optical zooms paired with quality lenses. Additionally, many manufacturers offer cameras with stabilized zooms, meaning they compensate for your hands shaking or other environmental issues in order to produce a sharper image. I myself own a Canon Powershot S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which features this kind of technology, and I can tell you that it works spectacularly well.
I'm going to assume that you're not interested in going pro with a digital SLR. Outside of the pro realm, there are really three main options for high-MP, stabilized long zoom:
the Canon S line (S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ))
the Panasonic FZ line (FZ4 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), FZ5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), FZ30 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ))
the Sony H line (H2 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ))
All of these cameras have their minor pluses and minuses, but in truth they're all fine machines and all of them would suit your purpose. These are all semi-bulky, SLR-like cameras. You haven't stated here whether you have a preference as to size, but there are also smaller cameras that have similar megapixel and zoom ratings. The reduction in size usually comes at the cost of a reduction in features (fine control over camera settings, etc). Some of these smaller cameras include the Nikon Coolpix S10 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Panasonic Lumix TZ1 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
I assume your wide angle lens for the G1 is the WC-DC58, as that's the one Canon built especially for it. Unfortunately, Canon has opted to create a new wide angle lens for the S2 and S3 IS, designated WC-DC58A. They've similarly created new versions of the other two add-on lenses and the lens converter that's necessary to mount them.
These lenses seem very similar in purpose and result, but I wouldn't suggest a blind buy on the off chance they might fit. You may want to contact Canon's customer service to ask.
If you want a hot shoe for your flash, I'm afraid the only options in the Canon camp are the next models up the line from your own G1. All G-series models have the hot shoe, though your wide angle lens won't be good with any of them besides the G2. If you expand your range to encompass other brands, the Panasonic FZ20 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), FZ30 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) all feature hot shoes, and are relatively similar feature-wise to the S3 IS.
Thanks!
<a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... is our list of extended zoom cameras, with ratings; that might help you too.
If you have the same size sensor in two cameras and one has higher megapixels, that means that they had to 'cram' those megapixels onto the sensor. Which means that the pixels each take up less space and are thus less light sensitive than they might be in the lower pixel camera. This does force the signal to be amplified - and that right there is the major cause of image noise.
The best example of this is in fact the Panasonics. There have been discussions that as the megapixels increase but the sensor does not, the graininess of the images increases especially at lower ISO.
This is one of the driving forces behind the problem with the megapixel myth- people think 'more is better' but don't realize that if the rest of the camera (the sensor, not to mention the lens) aren't upgraded, too, you're really not doing much good with more megapixels.
<a href="blog.johnath.com/index.php/... a great discussion of this- read the user comments, too, they pretty much say the same thing you said.
I found a great review of the FZ50 (and there is one here on this site as well)
letsgodigital.org/en/9107/p... FZ50 camera - ISO and Shutter speed
When set to the I.I.C., the Venus Engine III detects the subjectâs movement and adjusts the ISO setting and shutter speed to best suit the subject movement and the light condition automatically. Panasonicâs excellent image stabilizing system allows users to take clear, crisp images in any situation automatically, leaving everything to the camera. "
You might try the Panasonic DMC-FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). The ISO 3200 setting will be great for low light settings, and with a 12x optical zoom, you'll be able to catch your 50 foot range better. It comes with a lithium ion rechargeable battery, image stability, and the ability to attach an external flash. The flash will run you a little over $200 more though, but the lens is non-removeable. You might be able to find a compatible lens on eBay for less though.
Andrew
Ads.
FZ30 and it is stunning. It all depends apparently on the lab one uses to print. So an
FZ50 should have no problem giving you what you want for a tabloid size page.
I really have a problem choosing digital cameras.. and i need your help plz ...
mmm.. what is the best digital camera with hiiigh megaPixel(9+) and extended zoom .. Need high quality pllllz guys ...
by the way what's better
Sony Or canon ..
what is the comparision between them?
And ThnX ^_^
Andrew
If you know of ANY high megapixel camera that will allow me to remove the lens and take a picture, I would appreciate knowing the brand and model.
Thanks for the reply!
I do not want to take the lens APART, I want to take it OFF. IF I can take it off, THEN I can use the objective of the microscope as the lens. (I have done this before long ago with a 35mm SLR and a telescope with great results.
Today, I handled the Canon XTi. It is a 10+ megapixel machine, also. And the lens does come off and will STILL allow you to take a picture. But, as the name implies, it costs about twice as much as the Panasonic.
Again, thank you for replying and if I have made myself clearer, I hope to read what you (or anyone else) might have time to write.
--Bill
Sounds like you have your answer there with the XTi, but I thought I'd mention some alteratives.
First of all, I'm pretty sure what Giovanni meant to say was that the FZ50's lens cannot be removed. Indeed, no non-SLR digital camera has a removable lens.
If you're going to go into dSLRs, there are many entry-level cameras you should look at. The best deal (or at least the lowest price) going right now is the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is 6MP but otherwise compares quite well to the XTi. You can get some very reasonable prices for it here ( amazon.com/Pentax-Digital-C... ).
Other entry-level SLRs include the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), the older Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and the Sony A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Hope this helps, and good luck!
It helped a tremendous amount. Thanks!
--Bill
Slightly bigger images but at cost of fewer frames per second.
Slight speed increase in some areas.
Recommendations?
Based on those criteria, the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (a fantastic camera, no doubt) is out, since it only allows video files up to 1gb in size, which is equal to roughly 9 minutes at the highest quality setting. It's a shame, too, because the video quality on the S3 IS is pretty much unmatched in the still camera market. The 640x480 @ 30fps video setting is smooth and clear and basically looks great. Furthermore, the camera's image stabilization system is still active while filming, and you can also zoom during recording. Finally, you can take full resolution photographs while filming without disturbing the quality of the video. You can see a sample of the video quality here ( dcresource.com/reviews/cano... ).
The Sony CyberShot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) will take as much video as you can cram onto your memory stick, and it will also do it at 640x480 @ 30fps. At this quality setting, you'll get about 12 minutes per gigabyte. Like the S3 IS, you can zoom while taking video, which is a handy addition. You can see an example video here ( dcresource.com/reviews/sony... ).
The Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) also records at 640x480 @ 30fps, and in addition it offers a widescreen (16x9) mode. Like both of the cameras above, the FZ50 allows you to zoom while recording and includes active image stabilization. 1gb of storage space will get you between 9 and 11 minutes on the FZ50, and it will record as long as you have room left on your memory card. Here ( dcresource.com/reviews/pana... )'s a sample video.
In my opinion, the S3 IS produces by far the best quality video, but it does it at the cost of huge file sizes (though not that much bigger than the other two) and a nonsensical 1gb file size limit. You can, of course, record as many 1gb files as you can fit on your card, but that won't work for most people. The FZ50's video quality is subpar, with far too many artifacts and evidence of compression. Given the qualities you're looking for, I think the H5 is the best combination of recording time and quality.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate you taking the time to clearly describe each camera and its pro's and con's.
I agree with your recommendation but I really like the Canon so I think I will hold for a couple of month. The S3 was release in Jan 06. I am hoping for an S4 with 8 to 10 mp and no limit on the video in Jan 07.
thanks again.
I've got my fingers crossed for your un-crippled S4. :)
It is true that getting good low light shots is difficult and that most everything over ISO 1000 looks noisy there really isn't much you can do about that. Get better light really. Don't expect you camera to preform magic which defies the laws of space and light.
I feel the Sony H5 is a better value, especially for the hobbist level camera person.
I have owned various Canon film cameras and like the brand. But I also have a Panasonic Camcorder which is wonderfull. I am attracted by the Lumix abondance of specifications. But which one shoudl go for?
Thank you for your advice.
According to the ever-reliable dpreview.com's <a href="dpreview.com/reviews/panaso... of the FZ50</a>, "The electronic viewfinder (EVF) is identical to the one on the FZ30, and - of its type - it's very good. The 230,000 pixel resolution and sharp optics make it very usable, and the new larger eyecup is slightly better at keeping extraneous light out. I found myself using the EVF on the FZ50 far more than I ever do with competitor products (Sony H5, Canon S3 IS etc). It's no replacement for a bright SLR viewfinder, but it's not bad at all." It goes on to call the EVF "very usable" in the conclusion. Additionally, the review says similarly positive things about the main LCD screen.
Looking around, I can't find anyone really complaining about either screen, so I think you're probably in the clear. Good luck!
I noticed you haven't marked a "Best Answer"... are you still in need of help? If so, I recommend re-submitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately questions are being answered within just a day or two. Good luck!
Alternatively, on the Australian Panasonic site, they have <a href="panasonic.com.au/products/d... download</a> which is a general digital camera driver apparently. One or the other should work for you.
I think that the S3IS has an edge in terms of noise in pictures but it does create some chromatic abberations in contrasty scenes. I also think that the autofocus and the lens are faster and the articulated LCD has more degrees of freedom than what is available on the FZ50. It does not have a manual zoom (which exists in the FZ50) but the control of the electronic zoom is excellent. Manual focus is a little more difficult to use but one can easily get used to it. It has many manual adjustments, probably far more than casual photographers would ever need. It offers a histograph in the manual modes.
The S3 lacks a hotshoe for external flash units but it allows for slave flashes. The FZ does include a hot shoe. The S3 has an ISO button that allows a user to recycle through ISO levels up to 800 which I find easier to use than a dial.
The greatest advantage of the S3IS is in the video mode. It produces video comparable in quality with that of a mid-range camcorder. The zoom lens is absolutely silent and it can be used throughout its range during filming (there is a dedicated "record" button"). The camera captures stereophonic sound (quite unusual for such a camera).
The camera accepts 4 AA batteries instead of a proprietary battery of the FZ50. Rechargable AAs provide very long period of operation and typical AAs can be used in an emergency. So, I would consider this an advantage. It produces only JPEG files (no RAW) where as the FZ50 creates both JPEG and RAW. If you like tweaking everything in Photoshop, this would be a definitive advantage for the FZ50.
I noticed you haven't marked a response as "Best Answer"... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend resubmitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
When taking shots in the low light of a skating rink (assuming you're not on the ice), you will need a camera with a fast shutter speed to capture the action without blurring that also has a lower aperture. You might want to play around with your manual settings to do this. Set your f/stop number as low as you can with the ISO setting at 3200 or 1600 (the higher the ISO, the better in low light). These two settings will allow the most light in without slowing the shutter down. I've taken hockey shots at a ISO setting of 1600 from the other side of the glass and an aperature setting of f/4 without a blurred image. My shutter speed was at about 1/150 seconds for this. Let me know if this works for you.
Andrew
I would thank very much any ideas on this issue, as i have said before i have been looking at g7 and FZ50 but i dont know whcih one of them two would be better for indoor photography.
I noticed you haven't marked a response as "Best Answer"... are you still looking for help? If so, I recommend resubmitting your question at digitalcamera-hq.com so it has a better chance of being noticed. Lately it looks like questions are being answered within one or two days. Good luck!
It is awfully tricky to do this, most people use a camera's self-timer to take photos of themselves. Almost every digital on the market today has a self-timer. You just set it and then the camera gives you ten seconds to get into the photo and then it automatically snaps. Perfect for self-portraits.
The 12x zoom is very helpful as well. This truely is a great camera although it is not "pro". But totally suitable for what you are looking to do with a greatly reduced price tag.
I also have koi ponds and need a camera I can get a polarized lens for shooting through the water without the glare.
I do like to print out pictures and frame them. I'm not looking for a lot of bells and whistles just a good fast camera.
I noticed that your question hasn't been responded to yet. Are you still looking for an answer? If so, I recommend you re-submit it on www.DigitalCamera-HQ.com, so it will have a better chance of being noticed. These days it looks like most questions are being answered within a few days. Good luck!
James
You can find accessories for the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) at the Panasonic site ( www2.panasonic.com/webapp/w... ). You may be able to find outside manufacturers' lenses that work on bid sites like Ebay and Ubid as well.
Andrew
In order to print photos up to about 8x10, what you really need is 4 megapixels or so (anything above that is just cake). If you want to do some comparison shopping, <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... our list of point and shoot cameras; you can narrow it down by megapixels and price. Hope that helps!
acresontheriver.com/images/... is straigh out of the camera, no further adjustment.
You can contact me at ben@ezymail.com if you need more.
[url=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Sony Cybershot H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
I'm sure there are others too. If you want, you can go to our list of extended zoom cameras:
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... just check each one individually for a viewfinder. But the ones I've mentioned are a good place to start.
Olympus SP510 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Panasonic Lumix FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Andrew
On Panasonics website an accessory wideangle converter DMW-LW55 is detailed $249:00.
Link to a helpful site of what you need HARDWARE wise:
videoguys.com/vidcap.htm
i.e. get a shot when I press the button
Are you talking about the delay between when the button is pushed and when the photo is taken? This is called shutter lag and some cameras handle it better than others. Expensive DSLRs will have shutter lag of fractions of a second... you get what you pay for.
For mid-level cameras, there are some that perform better than others. A few that have been reviewed as having quick shutter lag times are the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (pricier, but very fast) and the Kodak Easyshare DX6440 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Hope that helps!
will check out both items.....vern
The LZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great camera and would be a great choice for your needs I think... tho I would advise spending time with the instruction manual and learning to use as many features as possible, because this camera (while relatively user-friendly) has a ton of features and you'll get the best pictures by becoming familiar with them.
It would work well b/c it has things like optical image stabilization (good for the huge zoom, since zoom shots can be shaky, and also good for low-light interior situations). The zoom is also helpful if you need to get some detail shots of the houses. Also, this camera has a nice Power LCD that boosts brightness so the screen doesn't wash out. Very intelligent camera that will take good photos in almost every situation provided you can teach yourself the basics on how to use it.
Really the other cameras you mentioned would probably work just as well for you, although beware the FZ7 as it has been reviewed as having some problems in low light situations (blotchy photos).
This delay between when the button is pushed and the shot is taken is known as shutter lag and can sometimes be a problem with digital cameras. You'll want to look for a new camera with as short a shutter lag time as possible. A few good ones to look at:
-Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (high end price range but shutter lag of fractions of a second)
-Kodak Easyshare DX6440 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Also, more high-end DSLRs (thousand-dollar price range and such) will have much less shutter lag than a typical point and shoot.
Another quick tip- prepare yourself to take the shot by half-depressing the shutter button before the "action shot" is ready. Half-depressing the button will frame the shot but not take the picture. Then when the action really happens, push the button down the rest of the way. This will eliminate a lot of problems with shutter lag because the delay is being caused partially by the shot framing, so get that out of the way before you actually take the picture.
Clyde
If the shutter lag is good (i.e. fast), then the manufacturer will often time it and advertise it, but it's not a set specification (at least, not a public one). For the most part it is camera reviewers that put the camera through field tests and publish the results, including shutter lag.
If you're curious about lag on a certain camera, try going to www.google.com and searching for the name of the camera and the words "shutter lag." You should be able to find lots of reviews and responses that will tell you how well the camera performs in that area.
The FZ50: 12x zoom, ISO up to 3200w/boost, movie mode with sound, and it's cheaper!
but it is a discontinued model.
(if you find one) it would be more expensive than fz50.
It depends what you are looking for!!
Zoom and image stablization = fz50
wide angel, overall best features= r1
I personally bougth fz50 as the only R1 I found in my area (dubai) is a 14 months used for around $480 fz50 around $550
Sony most probably discontinued the R1 because it would compete with their Alpha DSLR.
Before buying any of the Panazonic FZ models i would always go for an entry level DSLR or the R1.
digitalcamera-hq.com/digita...
How bad is it?
Then consider how you are going to ordinarily display, print or examine your images and decide whether the camera meets your expectations.
There is no doubt that the FZ50 produces noisy images and does not match a dSLR of the same MP size. But if you only print @ 4 x 6, you might not notice.
That said, get the best camera with the best zoom lens you can afford, get a tripod, and practice a lot. If you can follow your subject and press the shutter while you're swivelling the camera, that will help a lot - the background will be blurry, but the subject will be more clear.
Good luck-
One thing that might tip you toward the Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is its AI Servo predictive focusing system, which calculates the focus distance of a moving subject while you're tracking it. Reviews are quite positive for it.
Good luck-
Thank-you
Scott
Video is unlimited.
MVH.
Steve
If you're looking for a non-SLR, I suggest you check out our Extended Zoom ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) section. I personally like the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Getting Pentax Digital SLR would be good idea. since all the pentax fit lens (the old M42 mount lens with an adapter) will fit on a Pentax Digital SLR. and for the price no one else can beat.
if you don't need to Shake Reduction function, go with the K110D,
if you want it, then go with the K100D, or money is not a problem, go with the K10D.
also check out this rebate offer
pentaximaging.com/files/scm... you want to change back to regular Digital Camera- check out the Canon Powershot line.and the Panasonic Lumix line
High-end digital Cameras you can Check out the Fuji-finepix S9000( it's around the same price range as the Pentax K110d)
or this Sony line sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERS... all really good Digital cameras
But if you are just asking about zooms, the best one is in the Samsung Pro815 with a 15x zoom.
The Panasoni FZ30 is a really good one... (don't buy the FZ50... the only difference between a 10 and a 8 mp, is the $100).
If you want a profesional lens, but in a not SRL camera... ask for the Leica V-LUX 1.
Don't even ask for the Sony's or Canon's. Ask for the Nikon large zoom cameras, but the design is not that beautiful.
I will say it again... aim for continuing with Pentax. I own a K100, and I couldn't be more pleased (well... maybe with the Leica M8... but there's a little diference... almost anything... $4000 bucks). If not, you would have to buy again lenses or give up image quality for versatility and price.
Hope this helps you,
Alan.
pricerunner.co.uk/photograp...
If you're really interested in taking photos in low-light or high-motion situations, the upgrade may make sense. Otherwise, if you're reasonably satisfied with your FZ30, I don't know that an upgrade would be worth it.
Let's say I can sell my old FZ30 and buy a new FZ50 and make no net-loss from the exchange. Should I buy the FZ50 or look for another option that perhaps is better in the same price-range? I prob. wont go into dSLRs for now so that's not an option.
Best regards,
Emil
and the 50 is beter considering the iso ' and the imege .
the intelegnt iso working very good .
exelant imeges.
the FZ50 is good in that:
a. It focuses well and quickly
b. Produce great details in good lights, which is a vital factor for a DC
c. very good lense and performance
There is some regrets:
a. burst rate is 2 instead of 3 with FZ30. This is important for sport pictures
b. saving is slow in raw mode
c. noise level is high in low light
If you have a fz30, it is no need to trade in for a 50, but for one who do not have, it is very good to have a fz50.
I live in China and am a senior amateur
Hi Guys,
I have seen that there are some wonderful folks on this website who are willing to help out with all our doubts, well I am looking for 1 at this moment to make my decision.
Well I have been scouting for a extended zoom camera for the couple of days and I looked at the reviews of most of them, what it boiled it down for me was that 3 cameras stand out in the reviews and specs. <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... style="font-family: Arial">Fuji FinePix S9000 Zoom</span></strong></a> , <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... style="font-family: Arial">Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ30</span></strong></a>, <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... style="font-family: Arial">Sony CyberShot H5</span></strong></a> I went to the stores and handled all the 3 cameras I loved the 3" lens on the Sony and the image quality is not that bad, can't say much about the Panasonic because the sales person was pushing me towards the Fuji all the time, he took some pictures at macro level and it just floored me the far off objects were not bad either.
Now I leave it in your expert hands to help me out with my purchase, I know there a lot of reviews out there but all of them say that the camera they have purchased is the best.
Please guys I depend on your frank opinion.
Thanks</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial"> </span>
So go with the voices of the people: they concur that the H5 and DMC-FZ30 are great cameras (their ratings are amongst the highest of all cameras). The S9000 is a good choice. One important difference: FZ30 has a maximum ISO of 400 whereas the H5 goes up to 1000. That's 1-1/2 stops extra low-light shooting. Panasonic has just released the [url=digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... which is an upgrade to the FZ30 and getting good reviews, and it has a much higher ISO setting -- 3200, although at a steeper price.
So if price were a factor, I would go with the Sony. There. I said it. (I have a long-standing grudge against Sony because of their silly memory stick format, which seems very "betamax" to me. But that's just me. _).
Tom
Why wasn't the Canon Powershot S3IS mentioned? Isn't it
the same class?
Panasonic also makes some great cameras. You might consider the new Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) which people seem to like a lot.
Note that with high resolution cameras, people sometimes find that images look flat (one reviewer of this camera may be having this issue). The single most important thing you can do before printing is to select the correct printed size of the picture, THEN use your photo editor to digitally sharpen the image.
I must have read 200 reviews on the H5 and Panasonic, the H5 seems to have better imaging and satisfaction all around and I really like the idea of the 3" LCD. Now, I just have to hold one to get the feel and see what I think. I had been thinking about a Pentax DSLR, since I have a 35MM and a couple lenses but think the Sony may better suit my needs for now. I can wait till the K10D get a few reviews under its belt before thinking about adding a DSLR to my list. Again, I appreciate the help.
Perry
Hope this is of some help.
I want a new camera and I'm not sure if I should get a Sony Cybershot N2 the Panasonic Lumix FX9 or the FX50. Pqanasonic has a wide angle lens and a good the zoom is best on the FX50 and the ISO is great but the reviews are better for some reason on the FX9, even though the ISO is only 80-400, the pixel are less . People seem to also love the Sony N2, the zoom is only 3X, and I love my zoom, so this seems limited. Which
Neither the DSCR1, or entry level SLRs like Canon 400 have image stabilization. But it hurts very little with SLRs, as SLRs have very good high ISO performance. So when you need to take snaps with high zoom, or under low light conditions (camera shake is a threat under these circumstances), you can actually increase the ISO, and make do with a faster shutter speed, which decreases the effect of camera shake.
Now DSC R1 too, has very good low noise performance, but not as good as an entry level dsrl (see the comparisions on dpreview). I suppose if camera shake is a big problem, then go for either a DSRL, or some of the other prosumer cameras, like DSC H5, or Canon S3 IS. But these, mind you, won't give you the 28mm wide angle the DSC R1 gives you.
Most of the shots will be still need zoom.
* long zoom (10x or better, image stabilization recommended)
* tripod mount on the camera and a tripod
* manual settings for exposure and focus
* polarizing filter
Many cameras (and lenses) offer image stabilization, and this is a really great feature. But if you are taking photos of anything relatively stationary (flowers, sunsets, waterfalls, etc.) a tripod allows you to not worry about shutter speed, meaning you can get the best from your lens. Also, nothing is as steady as a good tripod; handheld shots are almost never as perfectly sharp as tripod shots. Tripods are a big pain in the neck, of course, so image stabilization is a good fallback for cases when you don't have the tripod.
A polarizing filter is the single filter that I think most outdoor photos need. By reducing glare, polarizers make most colors, including leaves and sky look rich and saturated.
Is you are serious about photography, I would recommend an SLR, or one of the top end SLR-like advanced cameras. Of course they cost a lot more than many of the very good middle-of the pack advanced cameras, and SLRs also tend to be larger.
At the top end consider the Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or it's less expensive sibling (just released), the Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
In the middle, consider the Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the new Canon A710 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
For less money, you can get an older Panasonic FZ5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ).
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 Reviews
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my third digital camera and is by far the best. I'm not that experienced as a photographer but I do know how to do my research on the internet. After months of studying all available cameras, except SLRs, I decided the FZ50 was the one I needed. This camera, together with Scott Kelty's book "The Digital Photography Book", has family and friends in awe of my "talents" as a Photographer. I love this camera and I can't see anything available on the market today which I'd rather have. My uninformed guess is that it's the manual zoom Leica lens that makes the difference here.
- 5.0 out of 5
For those who cannot afford a D-SLR, this camera ranks up there as one of the best cameras you can get. Its solidly built, and takes fantastic pictures. It's strongest point for me is black and white. It seems to pick up amazing contrast and clarity and can make for some absolutely stunning photos. On color it works very well too, however, it isn't as vivid as in b&w mode. It's by no means bad in color mode, it just seems to be a tad better at black and white. As a beginner camera this works great too. Through trial and error you can slowly wean yourself off the auto mode. With a little time, a beginner could learn to take better photos in manual mode. As i mentioned earlier, the build quality is excellent too. I can't tell you how many times i've dropped this thing, yet it still is solid as a rock. Excellent for traveling.
- 5.0 out of 5
this is a great camera,it takes beautiful photo,s .it has everything one needs.did not find anything to complain about.
- 4.0 out of 5
Just got it. I'm a beginner. Easy to use for beginners. Takes great pics!
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera does the JOB of SLR
this built in zoom has advantage of not going for other zoom lense
Its ZOOM can pick up far objects with good resolution.
I would like to buy a flash for this camera please suggest me compatible for this.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have allways been at best, a point and shoot photographer.
My wife is a shutterbug however and owns a quality DSLR.
On a recent whale watching trip, she "borrowed" My Panasonic and loved it more than her own high end job.
I am still learning to use this camera, but so far, it does all that I could ask for and much more.
I would not hesitate to recommend this camera to any keen hobby photographer who wants that little bit more than a pocket camera.
Regards,
Mick,
Queensland,
Australia
- 3.0 out of 5
This camera is a good camera for beginners. I really liked it when i first got it but am now ready for a more proffessional camera. One complaint I have is that it is a bit on the slow side. Its hard to get pictures of children with the way they move and all. But overall it does a good job and the pics are pretty good quality because of the high megapixels.
- 4.0 out of 5
This camera was, in the end, a compromise for me. i have been shooting for 35 years and went to digital media in 2002. My old 35mm cameras - an Olympus OM2-SP and a Leica IIIF - were quickly determined to be obsolete. I have owned several digital cameras over the last 6 years and have to say they were all good at doing what they were supposed to do. The DMC-FZ50 is what I decided to replace my stolen Olympus E-1 with.
The reason to downgrade was simple. the sheer magnitude of all the gear and accessories for the E-1 was too much for a traveling camera system. I travel a lot... and of course the package was heavy! One of the selling points of the FZ-50 was the Olympus strobe system was compatible - saving 100's of dollars. The camera also has a built in flash which mean I can use it in a pinch... something I loved on the E-20 and missed on the E-1
There are many complaints of the noise reduction system and to some extent I have to agree with most of them but, when you learn the system and how it operates most of the obstacles will be overcome. I have to admit for a couple of months I constantly complained about the FZ-50. My biggest problem was the controls all seemed to be in the wrong places. Now I have to say that my results satisfactorily compare to the pro grade SLR's I have used for years. I'd say it is not a complete replacement for a pro grade camera with lenses tuned for specific jobs but, at the price as sold. It is a very powerful photographic tool at a reasonable price. Not perfect but, very good! Good enough I am not planning another $4000 investment.
Of course, never forget to carry your pocket camera... LOL!
- 4.0 out of 5
Last Christmas I decided to really learn how to use a digital camera. I had a 3 megapixel Cannon point and shoot. I signed up for a camera class and a Photoshop Elements class and bought a Panasonic FZ-50. The FZ-50 was a huge improvement over the Cannon S30, both indoors and out of doors, mainly due to the lens and ISO capabilites. It was also wonderful in that I could take indoor snapshots of my Grandson without a flash to distract him from playing. This was a great camera for learning on but I have come to understand that it has it's limitations also. I very seldom get a really crisp focus. I can really see this in Photoshop. If i'm in sunlight and hold the camera very still then it seems good but it still has noticeable "noise". The macro mode is also poor. I think the camera was a great learning tool for me but I will definitely upgrade to a DLSR in about 1-2 years. The good news is that I now have a good idea of how to use a digital camera and what I personally like. In retrospect I would have obtained a Nikon D-40 but I did not know that last year. I have taken about 3000 shots since christmas (you tend to do that with your first Grandson). It's those 3000 pics that taught me what I can do, what the camera can do, and what I personally like. If I had to do it over again (without the learning of the last year) I would probably pick the FZ-50 again because it has wonderful capabilities. Especiallly the lens, the manual focusing, the RAW capabilities, and the feel of the camera. On the other had you can now get agreat DLSR for the same I paid for the FZ-50 ($550).
Good luck in deciding!!
Still learning.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have used fujii f601 and F810 cameras with excellent results and found them easy to slip into ones pocket, so they were always with me bbuit the draw back was that when shooting in poor light on automatic, the results were to say the least poor!!!. Yes, I know you can fiddle with the settings but usually don't have the time or photographic abillity to do this. As you can tell, I am not a photographer nor do I have the time or inclination to become one!!!
I decided that I needed something with a bigger and better lens to give me the better results in poor light. I have found this with the FZ50. I know it is a Leica lens and is bigger than my Fuji 810(which I still carry) The results are really good and the 12xx zoom is excellent. Poor light is no obstacle for this camera and the quallity matches my friends very expensive Sigma, yes more expensive cameras have more to offer but as usual the extras are very, very expensive, so if you are like me and have limited funds, you will find this camera all you need.
- 2.0 out of 5
This is not a point and shoot. It will take some time to get good at using this camera. Many shots are blurry even outside. One in ten photos come out good. Took it to a family reunion and more than half of the photos were a little bit blurry. Tried using the manuel focus and the lcd in the view finder was not clear enough. Hard to see if the picture was in focus.My daughter has a cannon xti and it blows this camera away. She tried to tell me to get the cannon but I didn't want to spend the bucks. Wish I would have know.
- 5.0 out of 5
very good camera for a nice price
- 5.0 out of 5
this camera takes great pictures,no problems with grain or any thing else ,this is my 5th digtal camera and this one beats them all.
- 5.0 out of 5
This is a great camera. I love the 12X zoom and it's versatility. It will take pictures in almost any conditions.
I've taken pix's of a bonfire in the dark. Zoomed to capture small animals / birds at max zoom and gotten sharp images.
The barral zoom adjustment works great.
Close ups give sharp images with good focus control.
It's a little heavy but that's no problem for me.
Colors are quite accurate. There's also a good manual focus ( barrall adjust) that (maginifies) the center of viewfinder.
I find more accurate focus using the Auto-Focus.
Very satisfied with this camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
I love this camera. I purchased a Canon Rebel XT DSLR and took quite a few shots with it. To say the least, I was underwhelmed! My Olympus SP-500 (6mp) took better/sharper pictures than the Rebel. After reading nearly every review on the internet I finally decided to try the FZ50 even though a lot of people didn't like the "noise" issue. Long story short, this is by far the best camera I've ever used. It has the quality and feel of an SLR without the need for thousands of dollars of extra bulky lenses. BUY IT!
- 5.0 out of 5
Selecting cameras is a trade-off. What is important is ensuring that the trade-off you make are best for you. I have been a film SLR user for 40 years and looked long and hard before buying the FZ50. Here is what I liked and still like about it. It feels like a familiar SLR. Manual Zoom using a zoom ring provides excellent creative control. You can use an external flash with it like the high output Sunpak 433 for great coverage. The RAW mode obviates any concerns about noise. It has the best image stabilization I have ever used and I don't have to lug around multiple lenses. The pictures are highly detailed and all the noise hype is simply that...hype. I shoot at ASA 100 and 200 with no noticeable noise and the image stabilization does a great job. I would buy it again.
What are the negatives?...The EVR could be brighter with more detail and the 2" LCD could be larger.
- 5.0 out of 5
Pretty well as good as all the reviews said it would be. the main thing missing for me is an 'instant infinity' focus setting. it has proved superb and amazed some of my fellow photographers. if only had a wider angle lens. otherwise I love it.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have had my Lumix for 3 months and I enjoy using it every time I pick it up. I am an amateur photographer and this is my first "serious" digital camera. I paid $430 for it new in the box. I still use my 35mm Chinon when the mood strikes. For most general photography I highly recommend the FZ-50. It is a pleasure to use and all of the manual features make it easy to use for experimental purposes. The lower ISO images have eye-popping color and clarity. The higher ISO images are OK. They are fine for typical album prints.
I keep a UV filter attached at all times, except when I use a polarizing filter outdoors as needed. Having the hot shoe for external flash is a great advanatge for the FZ-50. I recommend getting a high-speed memory card for action photography or burst-mode shots. I use a SanDisk Ultra III.
Overall, I am very pleased with performance, features and price.
- 5.0 out of 5
I own a Nikon D200 but find I use the Lumx FZ50 almost exclusively. It's light weight and has a wonderful zoom, precise auto focusing but, also, a simple manual focus with a neat magnifying tool that pops on the screen as an aid. I have cropped my pictures extensively and find the Leica lens and 10 megapixels keep clarity superb. For the money this camera is a wonderful value—it has everything an ordinary photographer could want. I highly recommend it.
- 5.0 out of 5
This camera is a good intermediate one between being an experienced amateur and being an expert photographer. It lets you try out a
lot of stuff but helps you if you're not sure what to do.
1. Deciding on the camera
I read a lot of reviews before deciding on this camera. Considered Olympus and Canon cameras before zeroing in on this one.
2. Features I liked:
A. Design:
I really loved the look of this camera. The fact that the zoom is controlled by a ring (like a regular SLR) and not by a electornic
switch makes it a lot more controllable and feels good in the hand.
B. LCD screen:
The LCD screen is one that rotates and flips. That way, when it is stowed away, the LCD screen is protected. The other benefit is
that it's position can be adjusted for tricky angle shots.
C. Picture taking modes:
The auto mode does everything for you. If you want to start experimenting just a little then the Program mode ('P') is great. Read
the manual a few times to understand what all can be adjusted and what it does. It's a continuous learning process. A convenient
'Function' button allows you to adjust 6 primary attributes (white balance, ISO, picture MP, picture quality etc.) while taking a
picture.
D. Scene modes ('SCN')
This camera has 16 pre-programmed scene modes (night scenery, night portrait, snow, sports, food etc.) that helps take some of the
tricky shots well.
E. Zoom:
At a 10MP resolution you get a 12X zoom. You can reduce the MP to 8 / 5 / 3 / 2 to extend your zoom to more than 30X.
F. Optical Stabilization:
Really helps to get the zoom shots stable. At very high zooms the stabiulization becomes a lot more difficult.
I'm still just exploring this camera hence this is it for now.
- 5.0 out of 5
First of all i am not a professional photographer, it is my hobby. Therefore you can understand that i can not buy quality lenses for a DSLR, and pay thousands of dollars for its equipment. That was the first factor that made my decision. I had a research for a week, and i saw that a slr-like camera was suitable for me. And found the FZ50. To be honest, the second factor was the focus ring and zoom ring in the camera. You feel like a professional when using hem. The camera is also recording the videos and 12x optic zoom is great. (nothing to tell about Leica lens). Looked at the samples from the net and that was enough for me. As i said i am using it for two months, and it seems i will use it for years. They all talk about the noise, however it is a professional thing It is a perfect camera to me with its functions... here you can see some samples; http://www.esnips.com/web/hasimcanan-photographs
Take care
- 5.0 out of 5
I've taken 400+ pictures in various conditions and am still working through the many features of this fine piece of machinery. The Leica lens (which is the best), user friendliness, great feel, and crisp (no high ISO yet)pics make this a FUN camera for me. After shopping the competition carefully for two months, I'd say the FZ50 gives the best $ value. You won't be disappointed unless your comparing it to a much more expensive DSLR.
- 5.0 out of 5
the lense element is a bit long and really needs a tripod but it is enclosed so the sand at the beach doesnt go in....
with OIS and V3 the results can be a bit smeared.
The settings panasonic give as standard really cover common photographer errors. If you use the camera as manually as possible with a tripod and on the less intensive 8mp setting the results are really quite stunning.(contrast to high saturation to high, 8mp, manual control of aperture and shutter speed) My nikon and canon buddies are impressed with pix quality and get a vague look of displeasure when they find out the price of the camera having forked out twice as much for a marque camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
I've owned this camera for over 6 months now and taken it on 4 trips (NYC, Disney, Ireland, and Hilton Head) and used it extensively. It has performed to my expectations. The colors are crisp and clear. There is only the slightest redeye when using the flash and zoom in poor lighting. I even got great action shots throughout my son's basketball season (using a high speed card helps a lot). There are so many great features this camera has. I highly recommend it to anyone.
- 3.0 out of 5
The camera is good if you are into still/posed photos. However action photos are someone difficult not to mention the speed of the camera. For the price I can not complain, however knowing now what I know, I would have waited and bought a Canon XTI or something thatâs faster than the Panasonic at least while here in Iraq.
- 4.0 out of 5
I bought the camera about 2 weeks ago. I haven't really taken a whole lot of pics with it so far. However, the ones that I have taken have been pretty good. I did get my first pic of the Northern Light's! They came out dang good. I have tried before with my Canon S1 IS and it never worked out for me. I need to spend more time with the camera so I can give a better, more researched opinion. So far it has acted like most have mentioned. A little noisy at times. I seem to get missed focus but I like it better then my Canon. I can't wait to be able to spend some in-depth time with it.
I gave it a score of four due to my lack of research time.
- 4.0 out of 5
I have the FZ 50 for about 5 months now and have taken about 1200+ shots with it. Initially, I have chosen this camera based on the "looks" as well as all the manual controls and of course the O.I.S. system(anti shake) which in my opinion works the best on Panasonic digital. cameras.In the case of FZ50 "mode 2" works probably better than "mode 1" of the O.I.S.
Overall I am very satisfied with the camera.My only "bad experience" with it was the picture quality. In my opinion again: it might be due to panasonic sensors as well as new Venus III chip. Not so much of a noise as "smear" which makes the final picture in ISO 200 and up look like impressionistic painting.Although you are able to turn down the in-camera noise reduction which helps a little, "but" for someone who is viewing their "pics" 100% on their computer monitor ,these "artifacts" will be always visible.
And that is why I gave it a four star instead of five.
Pro:
*Huge 38-420mm LEICA lens
*O.I.S. (anti shake) works perfect
*Vivid colors !!
*decent manual focus
*SLR like styling
*user-friendly interface, easy access buttons ISO,WB,metering....
Cons:
*Picture (ISO)quality (chroma noise and artefacts visible in low ISO's) some even on ISO100!!
*Limited burst mode - fairly slow
*VENUS engine III is a mess(sorry Panasonic)
- 4.0 out of 5
I bought this camera with the intention of shooting my artwork, documenting my child's life and capturing small amounts of video to edit and get artsy with that. As I understand camcorders shoot video better, slrs shoot better pictures but this seems like a good attempt keep it all simple; offering the most for what I want without going swimming in the money pit. As far as swimming goes I compulsively bought a Pentax W20 (stated to be waterproof to 1.5 meters) that will leave my Lumix comfortably at home and myself less incumbered.
So this camera combo is as excellent as I can make it. Does it work for me? Yes.
If you bought one of everything this camera would still be good but there would be hardly any time to look through your minds own eye.
- 1.0 out of 5
Within the first month the picture review mode got erratic.Occasional it would not go back to previous picture.
The shutter not always released.
The video recording was all grainy.
I send my Camera to Bigston Corp.for checking and repair.
That was 5 weeks [five] ago.
After phoning Panasonic directly I learned that the required spare part is on back order and I still have to wait.
I just fail to understand that a company like Panasonic does not just replace a camera once it is clear spare parts are not ready ly available and the customer would have to wait and wait and wait .
- 4.0 out of 5
Hi..I had a Sony digital camera and used it for a couple of years and I decided to go for a higher configured model and after researching for a couple of weeks I decided to buy this beauty, and m very satisfied with it, I'm still learning how to use it, but I'm very happy with what ever pictures I have taken till now, Battery backup is good, you would have to upgrade to at least 1 GB memory card(the default 32 MB is not enough at all) At full zoom its slightly difficult to take good clean pictures but again with practice you will get better, Flash works well in low light...but for long distance shots ...its a question mark..as with other flashes as well, Overall I'm happy with it, sturdy , feels strong in your hands.Buy it and you wont be disappointed.
- 5.0 out of 5
Increible camera. Crisp focus and real colors. Reds and pinks are not washed out. Beautiful pictures. Very happy with superb quality.
- 5.0 out of 5
I got myself the Fz50 about 2 weeks ago. A very nice camera to handle, and the feeling of having the SLR look alike in your hands is just great. I am a bit disappointed with the ISO range, grainy above ISO 800.
I have got no other problems with the camera, I really like the LCD that you can flip and rotate around, and image quality in good light is stunning!
I definitely recommend this camera to anyone looking for a new one!!
- 5.0 out of 5
Before I spend hundreds of dollars on a piece of tech photo equipment that is destined to be outdated by next years new line up, I try and consider a multitude of variables. First, what are its stand alone capabilities? Second, for the price, how does it stack up against other cameras in that price range, and in its capability range?
After reading critical reviews and experiencing the FZ50's images, I am very impressed. The FZ50 puts a 35-420mm (equiv) image stabilized leica lens perfectly in front of a sturdy well built camera. It's resolution is on par with lower end DSLRs and competes with some mid-class and higher end DSLRs. Realize that these 'other' DSLRs also don't even come close to reaching the lens capabilities of the 'FZ' without a bag full of len's costing thousands more (in addition to the DSLR itself costing twice as must as the FZ50 package alone). Top the last thought with the idea of losing precious shots trying to swap lens and cleaning sensors. It has every common advanced feature you would need or want in a capable DSLR. In fact more pleasing features keep popping up everytime I 'dig in deeper'. I have been a serious amateur and small time semi-pro for over twenty years, so I am no stranger to the ins and outs of photo equipment. It also features a system that is not bothered by dust on your sensor. Its battery is capable of hundreds (360 aver) of shots per charge. The flip out screen not only offers an image that can be viewed from any perspective of the camera, but it also flips screen side in to protect your delicate panel while not in use (a feature rare in upper line DSLRs, why?). A non moving lens (all focusing and zooming takes place inside the Leia's lens barrell) non-rotating end element is a major convenience. Not only convenient for polarizers, but it also eliminates other 'cracks' and openings that further invite dust and moisture to contaminate your camera. High ISO do offer some limitations (1600-3200), but I have been extremely pleased with all over image quality with 800 ISO shots taken up to 8x10 and 11x14. A parameter which grumpy critics would put this setting as virtually useless. I'm sure I could push satisfactory prints larger at 800 ISO, and most certainly at lower ISO. Not to mention the resolution and quality at 100 ISO could certainly print out images larger than I would ever want. As an avid photographer who takes on some part time work here and there, I feel well equipped with this camera. With technology constantly on the rise and my pocket book not, I found a perfect partner in my pasion. It will not only satisfy my love for photography until another like product is improved, it will also have a useful spot in my camera bag even after it is updated with another camera.
- 4.0 out of 5
I love this camera. It has a great zoom and really fits nicely into both hands. Feels like an SLR minus the huge price. Everone talks about the noise in low light...but in a regular lit room, the picture quality is great. Again, a lot of the time, you can't blame the camera, the actual photographer is to blame. Glad I bought it.
- 5.0 out of 5
Having owned a Fuji finepix and Sony 8 megapixel point and shoot I was expecting less, but found that the ease of use and photoquality was outstanding. I looked at Leica and found this instead. Leica lite.
- 3.0 out of 5
I intend to buy the FZ-50 to replace my current FZ-20 due to it's smart ISO which enable me to take better picture in darker place. I would appreciate unbias comment and advice on the the FZ-50. Thank you
- 5.0 out of 5
This is my first real camera and I am having a blast. The images are incredibly clear. It takes great portraits as well as nature pics. If I would improve anything it would be the manual focus. Some of my best efforts have turned out blurry. But, I am now going to experiment with the ������spot������ auto focus to pick up on birds and other little things. A picture I took yesterday of an Eagle flying turned out great. I love it. The only bad thing has been getting hosed on accessories that did not fit or work by Butterfly Photo where I bought it.
- 5.0 out of 5
Until I bought the FZ50, my only digital camera was a 0.8 MP point and shoot that I used exclusively for web photos. If I wanted prints, I used film, and then only medium and large format. My medium format equipment is now headed for the auction block, and I'll use the large format only when I need very large, high quality prints, or the perspective control that can only be obtained with a view camera.
The FZ50 is versatile, easy to use, and produces incredibly sharp photographs. A larger chip would improve the camera, but I'm very satisfied with the image quality I get.
I was tempted to buy a DSLR body and two high-quality IS zoom lenses, but I'm glad I didn't. I saved $2,000, and I have a camera that I actually carry around with me. The lens I need is always on the camera; it isn't the one I left at home because I didn't feel like lugging a big camera bag.
In 30 years of photography, the FZ50 is one of the smartest purchases I've made. I'm having a lot of fun with this camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have a FZ50 for four weeks now and I can tell you that there is nothing to regret after buying one of these. On the contrary! I like to experiment with night architecture photos. Of course, image stabilisations is not enough in a situation like this and you need a tripod, but the results I got were stunning. Highly recommended!
- 5.0 out of 5
I noticed a comment regarding white balance and that the pictures of a white card looked grey. This is normal to get that when you shoot something that is all white. Years ago they had to come up with some ideas for meters. The way I remember it is that they figured that the world reflected either 16% or 18% of the light on the average. That is what they base the meter sensitivity on. So, since a white object; like a bride's dress, wedding cake or whatever; is photographed, it is reflecting MORE than the 16% or 18% of the light. The meter, not knowing about cakes, bride's dresses and on, will underexpose. To solve this problem you have to move the exposure compensation up a click or two. The oposite happens when you try to photograph something that is all black, like the groom in a black tux. In theory the tux will come out grey, too. What you experienced was an exposure problem—not a color balance problem. And, the camera was functioning just fine; just work with these little things when they come along.
Herb in Utah
- 5.0 out of 5
Best digital camera I have ever had,Instructions could be more user freindly but otherwise delighted with quality of pics.
- 4.0 out of 5
I want to say, about taking photos from birds, that I can����t understand the review charged with BAD. I����m used to take photos of birds, but that isn����t an easy task. For long I got good results with an (early) Lumix FZ1, that is still in use. I own minolta Z3, Canon S2 IS and Lumix FZ20. The best for birds are the lumix for a simple reason, only them have a very selective focus to cath the bird and not the leaf behind or in front of it! But birds are quick, distant and small! So you need the long zoom (never the digital zoom), fast lens (f2.8 is great!) and fast shutter! Bright day help a lot, so you can reach all these conditions and use a low ISO for best results! Lens stabilization help a lot, freeing you from tripod even at full zoom, but you can����t slow down the shutter because birds are fast moving, even when apparently stopped. Good pictures!
- 5.0 out of 5
Great camera. Everything previously said, I agree with. ( Except the one negative review.)
The only thing I'm questing is the White Balance.
I took several pix's using different light sources, same subject. ( A piece of white paper on a textured lt. blue background.)
The results were on the gray side of white.
Maybe I need more time playing with it?
Took a telephoto (Max Zoom) of a small animal, about 25" away, through a window, using AF in Program mode. You can see the individual hairs and detail in the eyes. Did I mention it was handheld?
Love this camera!!
- 5.0 out of 5
I have had this camera for 2 months and am completely happy. After a great deal of research on various cameras in this class I decided on the FZ50. Certainly this is the best camera on the market without stepping up to a good DSLR. And I would bet after reading many reviews that the FZ50 would out perform many DSLRs anyway.
The FZ50 takes wonderful pictures in all lighting situations. I recently took a night shot of my fathers log cabin hoping to get a unique picture of the light emitting from inside. It turned out great and I wasn't evenusing a tripod - just holding the camera. Hurray for image stabilization!
If you want a camera that performs well, takes excellent pictures, has lots of features, has a fantastic zoom, and don't want to carry around a big bag full of lenses that you would have to do if you moved up to a DSLR - then the FZ50 should be seriously considered.
- 5.0 out of 5
I'm a little skeptical of the negative reviews — I have the FZ30, and the FZ50, and without hesitation I'll say the 50 is the better camera, in terms of noise, sharpness, clarity, ergonomics and speed of response to input. ISO800 shots, with all picture adjust settings to "low" have yielded me 8x10 prints — real prints, not inkjets, without having to use noise reduction. I really suspect the reviewers saying "watercoloring" and "lack of details" don't actually have the 50, instead, they read some review in some site and are now parroting those words up and down the 'net — without having used the camera. I've been shooting for 20+ years, with film and digital, and I can highly recommend the FZ50. For all practical purposes it is good to iso800, beyond that, chroma noise does become a problem. To rebut one review here, I find no halos, no watercoloring. Trust your eyes, not some armchair photographer's take. This thing rocks.
- 5.0 out of 5
Having used the FZ20, I bought the FZ50 without hesitation. With so many additional features and controls, it needed getting used to all over again.
The lens no longer has constant f/2.8 throughout the zoom range (FZ20 is unique in this), but it is more compact, and the movements are internal. Photographing insects at 5cm macro range is exciting, particularly with indoor available light at night, without flash. Versatile lens eliminates need for a vast and costly interchangeable collection, and the Leica name makes me feel at home, as I also own an M4.
Fine tuning of white balance, and quick exposure compensation and programme shift with convenient thumb wheels are helpful. But why the new 'Auto' setting; is it a sop for beginners to try out what might be an intimidating camera for them?
Extended optical zoom range when shooting at lower than max MP of 10 is also useful, but in spite of mega image stabilizer, a tripod is then required. Some features like auto world time zone setting for international tourists, and baby's growth record by age are entertaining. Unlike the FZ20, where variable and progressive digital zoom began after exhausting the optical zoom with the lever, in the FZ 50, one needs to preset the digital zoom factor, and then lose the wide-angle benefit at the lower end. But then, why use digital zoom at all?
Unlike some other brands in this price-range which feel crummy by comparison, this camera oozes quality and feels sexy in your hands as you manipulate the knobs and buttons, just like a Leica. And being shaped like a camera instead of like a pack of cigarettes, it will attract photographers rather than snap-shotters with their pocketable gizmos.
A worthy successor in the range. Recommended without hesitation.
- 5.0 out of 5
Shooting primarily high school sports (hundreds of images per game), I needed everything this camera offers. Fast auto focus. Instant shutter release. Manual zooming on a really big lens. Excellent outdoor light metering.
Solid controls and quality imagery. Set the noise reduction to low when using ISO 400 or above. Noisy at ISO 800 and above.
- 2.0 out of 5
the fz50 looked like a fine piece of gear, I mean that beautiful lens, stabilizer 10 megs, whats not to like? first snapshots looked good. A trip to Lake Erie to photograph water birds was a disaster! Careful focusing and proper handeling and settings and I thought I had something good to show for my trip. Wrong!!! 8x12 prints from the local minilab were poor to say the least. the noise was low all right, BUT where is the detail? the feathers on a large bird showed no detail! just a smear. I want to throw this piece of crap away but it costs 600 bucks. what a waste of money, don't buy one. If you do, don't say you were not warned. If you must buy a panasonic get a fz7, half the price and better results with only!! 6 megapixels. I say only 6 as a razz on the fz50 , 6 megs is all you need. 10 megs is too much for the small sensor. BOO PANASONIC!
- 5.0 out of 5
good noise free pretty much until ISO 400. fantastic optical stabilizer,lens is the best out there. nice size, about like a small slr, solid build quality,don't be afraid of this one, they got it 90% right. nothing, camera or otherwise is perfect. only thing I don't like is the fact that unlike a nikon slr on program the shutter speed does not increase when you zoom out, sometimes giving you pretty slow speeds. easy to overide by turning the dial to shift program.
- 5.0 out of 5
I have upgraded from the FZ5 to the Fz50 and its now like going from a Mini to a Rolls Royce. This is a superb camera, excellent picture quality, super AF, anf the Zoom ring is a dream. I would recommend it to anyone who dosn't want to go to the expense of a DSLR, this is one SUPERB alround camera
- 5.0 out of 5
This one stunning camera, having owned an FZ20, I was a little anccious that the FZ50 would not live up to the FZ20 and FZ30, it doesn't always follow that the latest model is better than the previous ones, but this one is a big exception.
The quality and clarity of the photo's, the super easy manual zoom and focusing, the speed of the AF and speed of start up and shutter lag is staggering.
When I first recieved the camera, it being quite differant to the FZ20 I thought ,oh dear have I made a big mistake? I guess it took me about half an hour to find my way around the camera (I don't read instructions, more fool me! ) and what I found I fell in love with imidiately.
This camera is super easy to operate, yet has tons of facility to cover every imaginable combination or setup you could wish for.
As far as I'm concerned you cannot go wrong with the FZ50, believe me you will not be disapointed.
