Hey! You should know that this product has been discontinued. Here are our current recommended cameras in the Ultra Compact Digital Cameras category.
Pentax K100D (With Lens)
Editor's Review
Simplified operation and a user-friendly interface make the Pentax K100D a good choice for consumers new to the digital SLR market. The K100D makes no bones about it. This camera wants to be your first digital SLR. It boasts a lightweight, relatively compact design and interchangeable lenses, allowing greater versatility for photographers looking to enhance their potential. Pentax particularly emphasizes their sophisticated, 11-point autofocus system, which hopes to aid new users in accurately and clearly capturing their intended subject. The K100D's image stabilization is also an attractive feature for users worried about handling their new toy.
Specifications
- 6 megapixels
- Pentax KAF bayonet lens mount
- auto and manual focus
- image stabilization
- auto and manual exposure
- ISO 200-3200
- JPEG and RAW file formats
- 4 AA batteries or 2 CR-V3 lithium batteries
- 2.5 inch LCD
- SD card storage
- Part Number: 19016
- UPC: 027075122635
- Release Date: Aug 01, 2006
Shop for K100D (w/Lens) Accessories
Pentax K100D (With Lens) Comments & Questions (write your own!)
And yep the lenses are compatible.
imaging-resource.com/PRODS/... you want more sample photos, just click on the "Resources" button located near the bottom right hand corner of this page and go to the review sites, then navigate to gallery or sample pages.
Enjoy! Larry
I'm glad I could be of help. If my answer was sufficient, you may want to consider awarding the points for "best answer". If you need more info let me know and I'll try my best. I really enjoy helping folks with their photography questions - getting points is the icing on the cake. Thanks, Larry.
It all depends on if you can live with the results based on the tradeoffs.
As the digital file is marked by a date and time when it's saved, the use of a date stamp feature in digital cameras has lost popularity amongst camera manufacturers as a feature. Sorry, but the AS710A's postcard feature may be the best you can do unless you're willing to add the date/time after the fact.
Check out MAGTIME - filedudes.com/MagiTime-down... it's an application which adds date/time to the picture. But beware, once you do it, it can't be undone.
I put my old lenses on the camera, followed your instructions and I am now clicking away.
Thanks!
d.michael.reed@gmail.com
Thanks alot,
Dave
Another tip is to go to the Pentax website and look for firmware updates. Download and install them.
As the camera cannot read the aperture the on-board flash won't work in auto. You will just have to raise lens aperture until the flash gives the correct exposure.
In daylight you put the camera in manual (not Av), set your aperture on the lens, and then press the camera's AE-L button this will select the correct shutter speed. You're ready to go.
Travelling to South America and will need a camera that can give me good results in landscape/glacier/wildlife shots so will need to acquire a long range lens too. Very confused as don't want to buy a camera that is beyond me - K10D perhaps but don't want to buy one that will let me down.
Any tips appreciated!
Which is why I would want to point you towards Canon and Nikon. Traditionally, the best lenses in the business. And if you want to grow into your camera, but not have one that's beyond you, the Canon Digital Rebel XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great place to start. 10MP. Optical IS. plus it has a great lens feature that shakes off the dust via sound waves to keep it clean. And although you don't get the sonic cleaning with it, old EF Style Eos lenses fit like a charm and you still get full auto modes.
The beauty about it is that you can run it all on automatic, and slowly transition to a more manual style as you experiment.
This is where I'd be pointing you.
On some of the reviews it is on about errors with Lens etc. Do you know if there is much fall out from this camera - do you own one yourself?
I appreciate all your help very much by the way.
At this time, I don't own an SLR. When I got the baby, we decided to go with a point and shoot for convenience. I really haven't shot serious photography since college.
But if I did, I can tell you I'd go with Canon lenses for it.
That said, I shot Minolta film equipment for ~25 - 30 years which was, unfortunately useless in switching to digital. They were all manual lenses, none of which are compatible with the Minolta (now Sony) digital bodies. I went with a higher level P&S digital (Panasonic FZ20) and, after a couple of years with it, got the itch to get a DSLR. The automatic functions were unimportant to me, since I was quite comfortable with the technical aspects of photography, so I boiled my choice down to what was important to me, namely, I wanted a camera that would be reliable, produce good images, have a wide range of available and affordable lenses & accessories, and be comfortable in my hand. In addition, I wanted in-body image stabilization, but lack of it wasn't necessarily going to be a deal breaker.
When I set out to handle cameras, an extremely important part of the process, by the way, I had pre-judged in my mind that I was probably wind up with the Sony, but was open to whatever felt right in my hands and met the other criteria. I was a little skeptical of Pentax, since it was so much less expensive that the competition.
When I got to the camera store, I handled all of them; Nikon, Canon, Pentax and Sony. I summarily rejected all the 4:3 cameras (not enough lenses). The Canons felt too small in my hand and the Sony, my pre-shopping first choice, just felt strange. The two cameras that felt the best were the Pentax and the Nikon.
In comparing Nikon vs. Pentax, I decided that I didn't want the Nikon D-40 0r D-40x since I would have been limited to the lenses made specifically for that camera. So that left me comparing the D-80 with the Pentax K-100D which really felt terrific in my hands. So Pentax was my choice.
I got it at the beginning of October and have used it pretty extensively since then, taking it to Utah, Las Vegas and Washington DC, as well as using it at a Cleveland Indians game and my daughter's school play. I have to say that I am impressed with its ease of use and image quality.
Back to your original question, though. The K-100D has some pretty extensive scene modes as well as program modes to allow you to use it pretty much as a P&S camera. At the same time, It has the full contingent of manual controls to satisfy a long-time photographer, such as myself. While I don't have the K-10D, I presume that the controls are pretty similar. That was a pretty long-winded response, but I guess that the short answer to your question is that I think the Pentax would allow you to use it as a beginner and eventually grow into its more advanced functions.
Go to <a href="amazon.com/Sigma-70-200mm-P... site</a> to see the picture and details on Sigma APO 70-200mm lens for Pentax digital SLRs.
There is nothing wrong with this camera's white balance. In fact, the auto white balance on default is better than most cameras on default. And you can always create a manual preset white balance to get tungsten lighting the way you want. Read this review and I doubt you'll question this camera :)
dpreview.com/reviews/Pentax...
Since you are a pro, I assume you are talking about an SLR. That boils down to either the Nikon line or the Canon Line.
The only other consideration for pro photography is the durability of the camera (construction, body material, moisture seal, etc.). I don't know how the Pentax stacks up, but at this price point, it's unlikely to be a super-durable camera. On the other hand, you could have two or three Pentax bodies for the price of what you'll pay for a high-end Canon like the 5D, or a bullet-proof camera like the Nikon D2X :-)
The Pentax SLR cameras have gotten good reviews. If you already had Pentax glass and equipment from a film camera, it's certainly a good choice, unless you expect to put a lot of hard wear on the camera. As Richio says, however, if you are starting from scratch, I think you would find Nikon or Canon is the choice of pros because they have great cameras, and also a very wide line of outstanding lenses, accessories and other gear that give you a great deal of flexibility.
One of the best comments I ever read on this site.
Even a decent photographer doesn't ask such, cause one can actually judge.
Get a film!
Do us all a favor and try to learn English before you go on the web.
(ya que esto empezaba a ser absurdo...)
Pentax K100D has image stabilization in the form of in camera sensor shift whereas sensor shift is missing in K110D
For the little difference in price, K100D probably will tolerate a bit of camera shake and still deliver sharp pictures while this may not be the so with K110D.
I am European and I have been in most European countries. You can buy AA batteries at every corner there. However, it would be a good idea to have some rechargeables always with you. Here in the US as well. You can always charge them with rapid charger before you leave a hotel. That way you are always prepared and it saves you money too. Keep in mind that the electrical system is different in Europe. So you will need an adapter for your battery charger. Those things are available in Radioshack.
Manual lenses like Tamron 80-200mm needs custom setting on the aperture ring before it can function properly.
Press Manual button to go to Custom setting
a. click " setting " and select " on "
b. click " using aperture ring ", select " permitted "
c. turn " mode " dial to " a " ( manual )
If you get lost, turn to pages 106, 107 and 188 of your manual for further information.
While the FZ50 seems like it would probably be the best choice in a consumer level camera, it unfortunately has serious issues with image noise in low light, and with focus-hunting (the time it takes the camera to lock on). These problems would be a major hassle with concert photography.
My feeling is that if you're going to spend the $500+ that a FZ50 would cost, you might as well step up to a low-end dSLR with a kit lens. The Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had with a nice 18-55mm lens for $450. Its big brother, the K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), can be had with the same lens for $540, and it features in-body image stabilization, which will be a huge help in low light.
dSLRs have much, much larger sensors than consumer cameras--the FZ50's sensor, for example, is 7.18 x 5.32mm, compared to the K100D's 23.5 x 15.7mm. In other words, it's 3x as large and host to 4 million fewer pixels (the K100D is 6MP compared to the FZ50's 10MP). This means that each pixel has access to much, much more light, and therefore means that image noise is drastically reduced when shooting in low light.
My recommendation would be to go with the K100D.
Hope this helps!
In that price range, I'd recommend getting a low-end digital SLR. A couple you might consider:
Sony's Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ): This is the new Sony dSLR, their first. It's a redesign of Konica-Minolta's old dSLR line, as Sony recently bought out Minolta's camera business. It features a 10 megapixel sensor, image stabilization built into the body (works with all lenses), and backward compatibility with Minolta's autofocus lenses. It's getting great reviews and can be had for around $650 without a lens, or a little under $1000 with a 18-200mm lens (wide angle to telephoto).
Pentax's K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ): This is one of the cheapest digital SLRs available, but it rivals cameras that cost nearly twice as much in terms of quality. It too has in-body image stabilization technology, and is much beloved by users. It has a 6MP sensor, much smaller than the A100's, but 6MP is plenty for most people's purposes. There's no kit with a wide-angle-to-telephoto lens, buy you can buy it with the kit 18-55mm lens for ~$550 and spend another $200 or so on this telephoto lens ( amazon.com/Pentax-50-200mm-... ), which gives you a body and two lenses at a much smaller price than the Sony.
Hope this helps!
Bernie
There are many cameras these days that match or exceed the specs of the HP 945. The Fuji S5200 you've selected above is one of them. Others include the Canon S3 IS, the Sony H5, the Panasonic FZ50, and the Kodak P712.
The Canon S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 6MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It features a nice flip-out & swivel LCD screen, a great macro mode (can focus on things actually touching the lens), and an absolutely beautiful video mode, along with signature smooth and accurate Canon picture quality. It uses AA batteries, which means you can use rechargeable AA NiMHs.
The Sony H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 7MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. Its LCD is fixed, but also huge and of great resolution (3" at 230,000px). Like the Canon, it uses AA batteries (though only 2, where the Canon uses 4). It uses Sony's proprietary memory stick, which might be a turnoff to some.
The Panasonic FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a 10MP camera with a 12x optically-stabilized zoom. It's the only one of these cameras to use a 1/1.8" CCD sensor, though it needs the extra space for all those pixels (the others use a 1/2.5" sensor). It has the feel that's closest to a SLR, and size and weight to match, about 8oz heavier than the next closest. Like most Panasonics, it has issues with excessive image noise in low light, but in good conditions it can produce amazing images. It uses a proprietary lithium ion battery pack.
The Kodak P712 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is nearly identical in its specs to the Sony H5. Users seem to love it, and it's the smallest and lightest of the cameras here. It has a very ergonomic design, and trademark Kodak ease of use. Like all of the cameras here, it's capable of producing very, very good pictures. Like the Panasonic, this camera uses a proprietary battery pack.
You can get a full rundown of these cameras' specs side by side here ( dpreview.com/reviews/compar... ).
There's really no clear recommendation between these cameras. I personally love my Canon S2 IS and would recommend the S3 IS based on that alone, but the truth is that all four of these models are very comparable. I'd recommend going to your local mega-electronics store and trying as many of these as possible in your hands.
Good luck!
I did as you suggested and visited one of our mega-stores prior to posting my question...I intend on returning with your specific suggestions and trying both the Panasonic and Kodak. I tried the other two on my first visit. One thing I noticed right off was the smaller physical size than my HP. I am a man with man hands and both the Cannon and Sony you mention above felt like little toy cameras. Navigating between all the dinky little buttons and controls felt a bit awkward, a condition I suppose I could eventually learn to live with.
Can you shed any light on the Pentax K100D? I haven't found one yet to try it on for size-n-feel but all the other published characteristics seem to fit what I'm looking for.
Thanks again for you help.
The K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a very good camera--probably the best value-oriented entry-level SLR out these days (along with the K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is exactly the same minus the in-camera image stabilization). Being an SLR, you'll be able to buy additional lenses for it, as well as external flashes and other accessories that (with a few exceptions) you couldn't use with the above cameras. The down side is, of course, price. The camera itself is more expensive than the cameras above, and then you factor in the price of additional lenses (the kit lens is good, but you'll eventually want to upgrade) and it's much, much more expensive.
Any dSLR will outclass any non-SLR digital in terms of image quality--it's just a question of how much you want to spend to get that quality.
(You might also want to check out the Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which should be in a similar price range with the K100D.)
Hope this helps.
It just turned blurry and purple in the middle of shooting pictures. Checked the batteries. Any suggestions?
This is a known issue with some models of Canon cameras. What has happened is that your camera's imaging sensor (CCD) has become partially or fully detached from its wiring. Luckily, Canon has acknowledged the fault and is offering to repair any and all affected units for free (including free shipping both ways), whether they're under warranty or not. You can read the applicable service notice ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ) and then request a repair online ( usa.canon.com/consumer/cont... ).
Good luck!
Beyond the consumer range, well, you're obviously getting into dSLR territory (or, as your son put it, "serious" cameras). When you jump to dSLRs you not only hike the price way up for the body, you're also looking at serious money for lenses. A very long zoom lens of any kind of quality is going to run you in the hundreds of dollars. Of course, you'll be able to take incredible photos, but you'll probably be well over $1000 total once you've bought the camera, lenses, and accessories.
There's not really an easy answer here, unfortunately.
You are overlooking DIGITAL zoom (or cropping)!! If Priscilla is willing to settle for 4x6 prints, then look what she can do with a 12x optical zoom, coupled with a 6 to 7 megapixel sensor*: Use 3x digital zoom (or crop in a photo editor on a PC, same thing). That is the exact equivalent of 6/3 = 2 megapixels or 7/3 = 2.33 megapixels. So now your 12x camera is the equivalent of 36x power! And of course the 2 megapixels size is plenty good enough for 4x6 prints.
* Canon S3IS or Sony H5.
Richio
A Digital Rebel wouldn't be too big of a jump, no. Most digital SLRs have very, very good automatic modes that are just as easy to use as any smaller digital's auto mode. Either the Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the XTi ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) would be a good choice.
If you want to save a few dollars and you don't mind straying from the Canon brand, there are several less expensive dSLRs out there--you might consider the Nikon D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )/K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). These can be had for around $500 w/a kit lens--usually not that great for zoom purposes, so you'd probably have to buy a long zoom lens. I don't know all that much about lenses, but I do know that, as I said above, a very long zoom lens is going to mean big big $$$.
Hope this helps. :)
Looks like I've got a new boat anchor. You don't think I have a sour taste in my mouth?
Australians who live outside of Sydney, beware.
HTH2
That's pretty backwards-thinking of them. Seems like if there's a service advisory out for a large chunk of the world (I think South and Southeast Asia are covered as well), the entire planet ought to get recall service, doesn't it? If you feel like a fight, I'd suggest harassing them and pointing out that this very same problem gets very different results in another hemisphere. See if you can guilt them into some kind of compromise.
Sorry for your troubles.
PS e-mail accepting repair 1/9/08
e-mail stating it shipped on 1/15/08, 1/16/08
received 1/17/08
Found another link imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1...
I have the same problem with my S1 IS and I called the customer service centre. They asked me to turn on the camera and asked me to press the menu button. Asked me if it was blurry while the menu was on. On my camera the image is blurried only in the picture shooting mode. I can get the photos displayed on the screen perfectly. Was this the case with your camera too?
I remember a friend of mine also getting a new camera when he had a similar problem. I hope I too get a new camera
Thank you VERY much for posting the problem and the solution on this site. I just experienced this problem with my camera this week, and found your wonderful information on the web today. Thank you! I'll be contacting Canon tomorrow.
Again, I very much appreciate you making the time to post the issue and the solution on the web so many other people can benefit. That was very nice of both of you, and I really appreciate it.
Best regards,
Mark
I reside in India and I had the same issue with the Canon S1 IS - purple screen and unable to shoot. I took it to the nearest authorized service center and they have offered to replace my camera with a brand new S5 IS !!! The waiting time is somewhere around 4-6 weeks. But the service center guys want their pound of flesh too (since it is a franchise). They just brought up some arcane problem and said that it had to be fixed before being presented for replacement. Costs around $50 equivalent. But, what the heck, don't mind it as long as I get the spanking new 8MP S5 :-)
Is it a 100% guarantee that everyone who has this problem gets a new camera?
I guess last spring they didn't have the sensors to fix the problem and that's why they were sending out new S5s.. darn my luck.. still, it's great that they step up and fix it, way out of warranty (mine's 4 years old).
I am having the same problem as the purple screen and being unable to shoot with my S1-IS. I am wondering if the free repair and shipping is still available (Ben's posting: Jan 16, 2007) because whenever I try to request a repair, it gives me a cost of around $149. Mine is almost 4.5 years old and was performing as good as new before this happened.
ya Shelly i got the same 149$ Estimate on repair quote i hope i dont have to pay 150$ to fix a recall product
If those lenses are for the Pentax screw-mount (M42) system, there are many adapters available. I'd recommend the one you can get directly from Pentax ( pentaximaging.com/products/... ), as it's guaranteed to work.
Good luck!
Pentax K10D does not have a movie capability, so what do you mean by capturing high resolution videos?
I've heard a lot of different photographers grumble about the quality in Sigma lenses. If your budget is hurting, they can be an acceptable substitute, but the name brand lenses fit better. A good versatile Pentax lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/p... ) would be the Pentax 28-105mm f/4-5.6 lens ( digitaladvisor.com/lenses/p... ). The wide zoom range and decent aperture make it a good choice. The 75-300mm lens you suggest isn't bad, but you will find it lacking for wide angle shots. You'll want something with a shorter length for those shots. I hope this helps. Good luck and happy shooting.
Andrew
I have actually looked at purchasing a Tamron lens for my dSLR as well. They rate very highly and seem to have some very technical advances. I will probably be purchasing mine in March or April, so I would go for it if you think its the lens for you. As for the silver on black, I don't think it would look that bad. I am personally more function than fashion though. Good luck.
Andrew
Portrait shots? I'm pretty much a nubie here.
very good non-blur feature ("anti-shake"?)
for some shots.
Honestly, any dSLR is going to be pretty good at this provided you're using the right settings (adjusting ISO, aperture, and shutter speed accordingly). However, two that you might want to consider are the Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), as both of them feature an in-body image stabilization mechanism that will compensate for hand movement when shooting in low light. This will allow you to use settings you might not otherwise get away with. For example, you could use a slightly slower shutter speed and thus a lower ISO setting, which would give you a clear image with less image noise. This won't work 100% all of the time, but it will certainly help.
Good luck!
The 400D doesn't have any in-body image stabilization technology, unfortunately. The only dSLRs I know of that include this feature are the Sony a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). However, you can buy lenses for the Canon that have an in-lens stabilization feature.
Good luck!
One thing you can try is to uninstall and reinstall all of the software. I know if this is a pain, but sometimes it does the trick. Make sure you install things in the order the instructions tell you to.
Another thing you can do is plug the camera into your computer via USB without opening the Pentax software. If your speakers are on you should hear the usual USB noise indication (a couple of bloops--kinda hard to describe in text). At this point, an autorun window might pop up. If so, it'll list various programs you can use to get your pictures. If not, do this (assuming you're running Windows XP): go to your start menu, open My Computer, look for your camera in the list of devices, double click on it. You should get a folder full of pictures. You can then drag and drop the pictures from the camera to your hard drive.
If none of the above works, I'd recommend buying a memory card reader. They're cheap--like $10 or less--and then you can just take the memory card from your camera, plug it into the reader, and transfer the files that way.
Hope this helps!
Did not have the supplied software running, just the desktop.
Plug the cable into the camera. This plug is a tricky little devil, make sure it is all the way down.
Plug the usb plug into the computer.
Turn on the camera. PC immediatly appears on the screen
and Windows announces that new hardware has been detected.
Go to My Computer and there it is as a new drive.
I don't think you should have any reservations selecting the FZ50 from among its peers. It is by far the most powerful camera in its class. I myself have used it, Sony's H5 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), and Canon's S2 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (which is by all accounts extremely similar to the S3 IS ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), if not a little superior on the image front). The FZ50 was a pleasure to use, and felt the most solid and SLR-like in my hands. I didn't notice any problems with noise that detracted significantly from its use, and definitely not any greater noise than I saw on the other models I mentioned.
That said, under your $600 limit there are several digital SLRs (with kit lens) that you might want to consider. The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), for example, can be had for $578 (with lens) at Amazon. The Nikon D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) can be had for a similar price (cheaper with a shorter range lens). The Canon Rebel XT (350D) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also in this range. Without a lens, each of these cameras is under $500 (some close to $400) and you can probably find decent used lenses on eBay and the like. Of course, with a memory card and other accessories (not to mention inevitable extra lenses) you'll end up over $600 eventually, but it's something worth considering. Finally, the Pentax K110D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) (same as the K100D, minus built-in image stabilization) is an incredible $432 after a $50 rebate at Amazon, with lens.
All of that said... if you want to stay out of the SLR realm, the FZ50 is a fantastic choice.
Good luck!
If you're asking about the pixels' relationship with image quality, that depends on several things. First of all, dSLRs will always provide better image quality than non SLRs because their imaging sensors are much, much larger. A typical 6MP sensor in a non-SLR, for example, is about 5.76 x 4.29mm. Meanwhile, the 6MP sensor on the K100D is 23.5 x 15.7mm (basically 4x as large). What this means is that each pixel receptor is given more room and therefore more light, which means lower image noise and the ability to capture higher quality images at high ISO sensitivities.
Furthermore, higher megapixel numbers doesn't necessarily imply better image quality. Sometimes, manufacturers will cram more pixels onto the same size sensor (for example, putting 8 million pixels onto a sensor the same size as the non-SLR 6MP sensor above). This does the opposite of what the SLRs' larger sensors do, increasing noise at higher ISO sensitivities and generally lowering image quality. The main advantage of higher resolution in consumer digitals is the ability to make larger prints.
In short, I wouldn't worry about it too much, so long as the image quality is good.
13 seconds sounds like a ridiculous exaggeration by any standard, and $130 for any 2gb SD card is a huge ripoff. I'd check sites like newegg.com or even amazon.com for much more reasonable deals. Take a look at this one ( newegg.com/Product/Custrati... ), for example.
It sounds to me like the salesperson is trying to scam you. I'd avoid whichever store that was entirely and do your shopping from reputable internet merchants. I've personally used both newegg and amazon with great results.
Good luck!
As you know, a SLR can be a huge investment, both in terms of money and of time involved in getting to know the machine. However, in exchange for that investment you'll get pictures that no non-SLR can touch in terms of image quality. SLRs perform better in low light, are far quicker all-around (shot-to-shot, burst mode, autofocus timings), and have a much broader range of abilities (due mostly to interchangeable lenses). You've said here that you don't want to change lenses, but that desire might change in the future and it might be nice to have the option.
I've answered so many questions from parents who want to take pictures of their children and are frustrated by the performance of lower-end digitals, particularly in indoor settings and other poor lighting conditions. Honestly, no non-SLR digital is going to be perfect in low light. Because of the way digital imaging sensors work, and because of the kinds of sensors that are used in consumer digitals, low light will always cause higher image noise. There are things you can do to minimize this, both in-camera and in post-processing of the images, but it's always going to be a factor unless you go the SLR route.
Super-zoom consumer cameras have many great features to recommend them: long, often stabilized zooms, high megapixel counts, advanced manual controls, etc. They're fine cameras and, in good light, they can produce images that will be virtually indistinguishable to most people from those produced by dSLRs. Furthermore, they're hundreds of dollars cheaper, which is a huge factor to most people. However, if I had the money to spend, I'd definitely go for the SLR--it will be a huge source of relief for the kind of frustration you're getting with your point and shoot. The ability to manually focus in low light alone would be enough to sell me.
One final note: you might want to take a look at Nikon's new D40 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is around the same price as the D50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), is a little newer, and will serve your purposes just as well. Good luck!
Thank you so much. That is really helpful. I will look into the difference between the D40 and D50. Would it be silly for me to buy the camera without the other lenses? Can I still take good shots with just the body that comes with it and down the road buy additional lenses? I also noticed that Pentax has come out with a relatively inexpensive SLR camera. I may look into that too.
Thanks again,
Anne
The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also an excellent entry-level SLR, yeah. There are some other inexpensive new ones from Sony (the A100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) and Canon (the Rebel XTi aka 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )) as well.
You can most definitely wait on additional lenses. The kit lenses that come with the bodies on most dSLRs are very nice and cover a pretty large range of shooting options (they're usually 18-55mm--wide-angle to mild telephoto). I'd suggest playing around with the kit lens for a bit before trying to figure out what additional lenses you need, if any. Hope this helps.
thank you,
Steve Allen
There are lots of these lenses available. Generally, the cheapest way to find them these days is on eBay (here ( cgi.ebay.com/Vivitar-70-210... )'s an example), but you can also find them at retail shops like Wolf Camera ( wolfcamera.com/lenses-for-p... ) and Adorama ( adorama.com/Catalog.tpl?pag... ) and Ritz Camera ( ritzcamera.com/lenses-for-p... ).
Good luck!
Pentax claims that all K-mount lenses will work with the K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). Yes, ALL. Non-AF K-mount lenses have to be used in manual mode, obviously, but that's not a problem for most people.
I don't know much about older lenses, so I don't know if the Ranger lens you mention here is K-mount, but I'm guessing not. Many screw-mount (M42) lenses can also be used with the Pentax dSLRs with an adapter. They can also be used with just about any other brand of dSLR, as there are adapters made for most of them.
Sorry, this response is kind of jumbled. Maybe someone who knows more about your particular lens will come along. :)
Between the FZ50 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) and the [url=]S9600[/url] I'd definitely go for the FZ50. It's an extremely solid camera and very well-rated by users and pros alike.
Good luck!
The K100D is no doubt a better camera than the FZ50, but it's also quite a bit pricier and is going to probably convince you to spend even more money on lenses for it down the line. Bottom line: if I had the money to spend on it, I'd certainly choose it over the FZ50.
One thing you might want to do is take your lens into a camera store that has a K100D on display and see if it will mount. Most stores will allow you to do this under the supervision of a trained employee. It's the surest way to know if it works. :)
Be aware that the 200mm will be 350mm equivalent (due to smaller chip) + there is a small shift with the ring as well
pentax.ca/digital/digital_s... the basic 18-55 lens is one of the top in the kit lenses
Finally after turning off the camera and back on the shutter opened and the lcd display ... batteries deplitated....
I hope you can help
It seems that a lot of K100D users have issues with the relatively short battery life they're getting with their cameras. Even with the lithium batteries, many pro reviewers state that the K100D has unsatisfactory battery life compared to its peers. You seem to be implying, however, that the batteries aren't actually running out of juice--rather the battery indicator is misreading the charge. Just out of curiosity, could you tell me roughly how many shots you're getting out of your camera before the battery problem happens? Also, how long have you had the K100D? Has this battery problem happened frequently, or just one time? The answers to these questions will help me answer yours better. Thanks!
A bit late to get in a reply but having just bought the K100D I have run into the same problem. In the tests I ran on the first two days the camera ATE batteries. I have about 20 AA rechargeable batteries, some of 1300 mah, most in thge 2000-2100 mah range, various ages that have served me well but on occassion have had the odd one that was dead when I tried them. The batteries would show flat in the K100D after maybe 30 shots but I could take them from the K100D, place them into my older HP 812 and happily continue shooting for another 50 shots at which time I ran out of patience. Realising that some of the batteries were getting old, before taking the camera back to the dealer , I spent $45 on a new charger and a couple of sets of 2500mah batteries. Seems my charger/batteries was not up to the mark and the new batteries hold up for 250+ shots per set. Acceptable.
bdimitrov.de/kmp/technology... has a table listing features by lens style and body style.
And judging by the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... it's gotten by users here, it looks like the K100D has inherited the legacy of a great camera.
And based on what I've read by users, the K100D is backwards compatible with ALL old Pentax lenses, with adapters. That's awesome.
So you won't have any trouble using your own lenses, although the automatic features will be a problem. But on manual, it'll rock and roll.
If I am looking for an entry-level DSLR does ownership of these few lenses make the K100D the logical choice? Or do I go with one of the higher-rated cameras? Most of my pics are of wildlife with the occasional holiday party type pics.
Money is an issue so I don't want to give up the advantage of having some very useful lenses on hand, but I don't want to spend $600 on a camera that might not be as good as it's competitors.
Thank you,
Lee
Having nice lenses would definitely sway my decision. If you purchase, just a camera body, you can save a lot of money that way. I would also purchase the lithium ion batteries for this camera instead of using AA's as well. Those will be a larger up front cost, but save you in the long run. For just a little more, you might look at upgrading to the Pentax K10D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ). You will get more functionality out of it, and your lenses should still work as well.
Andrew
I have seen a couple of places that sell this camera with the "normal" zoom lens for uner 600.
Ed
I already have the flash and lenses that would work with the Pentax, so that is an drawing point.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Picture quality is very good indeed. It has noise using high ISO settings... like 1600 or 3200... but, it has almost any with ISO 800.
The 18-55 lens are very good... so I would tell you to buy the kit. Also buy a 2 GB SD card... so you can take the pics in RAW... and, buy an at least ultra fast card. It's about $50...
Hope it helped you...
Alan.
Note: Nikon does not have any camera with image stabilization yet. But... I'd really love the Nikon D80 with an image stabilization.
Note: Some of them, need some accesory... but, I think it's fair enough.
Hope it helps you...
Alan.
Thank you for the answer. Your help is much appreciated. But due to business factor I have been unable to check the answer to my Q for a long time; so that my reply is much late. Wouldnt you mind the long late reply and thanks?
Vincent 18 April 07
Alan.
Thanks
Good Luck
It doesn't need a tripod because of the Image Stabilization, and much more, because you are taking pictures with short shutter time.
Just think that without Image Stabilization, the shutter speed should be 1,5 times the lens length you are using... for example: if you are using 20mm use 1/30... or if you are using 50, use 1/75.
I don't know the numbers with image stabilization... but it has to be less than those numbers.
Hope it helps you,
Alan.
Many thanks
So, you can do it, but a bad out of focus picture isn't really worth it. I'd sell the lenses on eBay and invest in new ones.
wortlig
I liked the EOS350 D, but I don't understand most of the specs..
I'm assuming from your price range that you're looking into a DSLR, which is the fancier version of the basic digital camera- equivalent to an SLR film camera. Even though you know you want something more than a point and shoot I'd encourage you to read our <a href="digitaladvisor.com/guides/f... Guide</a>. That will get you thinking about what features and specs are most important to you.
The Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a great camera in that it has auto and program features as well as manual, so while you're learning how to use it you can let the camera do some of the work for you. You can also turn it to manual mode and experiment a little.
Any camera you buy in the DSLR range (that is, fancier than a point and shoot) is going to have some features you don't understand at first. If you want to use all of them (which I totally encourage, if you pay for it it's great to be able to use it), you'll have to plan on spending plenty of time with the user's manual.
The Canon is pretty easy to figure out. For another good option, consider the Pentax K100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ), which is known for being super user-friendly. It also offers both manual and auto modes.
Good luck and if you have further questions just ask!
The zoom for the Canon 350D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is controlled on the lens itself because of the SLR functionality. The buttons on the back of the camera are used for index views and sorting of the pictures already taken.
Andrew
Andrew
But if the Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is more in your price range and you want a camera that comes with a lens then you should be happy with the Pentax.
Various options
Use a wide aperture lens - Pentax make a stunning 50 mm F1.4 that is not too expensive (this is a 35 mm film lens but works a treat on the dslr's.)
Canon also make a superb 50 mm 1.4 BUT you will not get image stabilization with it, unlike with the Pentax BIG PLUS for pentax in low light.
The Pentax is getting a reputation for being the faster focusing machine and this may be a factor in lower light performance.
The Pentax viewfinder is exceptionally bright and would make night time work a lot easier.
You can use focus assist on a flash gun - this is best if it is infrared - and for this my money would be on any of the canon flash guns. However then you will be taking flash photos which may not be what you are after.
Dollars for performance the Pentax will give you the brighter viewfinder, cheaper lenses all of which come with image stabilization courtesy of the body and faster focus.
Don't get too excited about the higher iso ratings on the various sensors - they all look like rubbish at iso 800 and over.
Summary Pentax 10 D or high end Canon costing about triple (ie not the 400)
I'm very pleased with the results. A lot depends on what it is exactly you are trying to shoot at in the dark.
I have a couple examples from last night.
The glow is from Las Vegas.
I'm about 60 road miles from there....
hamcams.com/pentax/
Have a good weekend.
Paul
terebenthine.smugmug.com/ga... really an action shot though : 6 secs pause, using the wire controller. No light except the stars, the moon and a passing car in another street. With a tripod obviously.
There's a bit of grain at full size even though the camera was set to 200 ISO (the minimum) but otoh it's not worse than the same picture with film.
The User Reviews ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) on this page seems to indicate that the Pentax *ist DL generally takes "wonderful" photos.
In my opinion though, you should take a look at a newer Pentax SLR. The *ist DL is great, but isn't widely available anymore. The Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is a more up to date SLR that is also very good for entry-level users, and has so-far garnered positive reviews. Take a look!
and K110D is the *ist DL with 11 focus point ( DL have only 3 focus point)
K100D is K110D with SR ( shake reduction )
The Sony Alpha is good camera, but you can't compare the price between the Sony Alpha and the Pentax K100D, K100D price around $650 average. Sony Alpha is close to $900 or more...
Pentax's new K100D DSLR is compatible with any lens that Pentax has ever produced. This is intriguing news for fans of the traditional Pentax K1000, which was the outrageously popular camera for beginning photographers during the 1980s.
Good luck-
I haven't tried them all but at the moment the results are mixed : my Makinon 80/200 Macro-zoom works (in manual mode obviously) but my 28mm wide-angle (Makinon too) is not accepted : that is, the camera shuts (crashes?) when I start it while the lens is on.
Anyway, I had bought the Pentax 18/55 and 50/200 with the K100D so it doesn't really matter. But I would advise finding as well other good reasons to choose this model over another (and there are other good reasons, the shake reduction for a start).
Florence
I've got an ist DS and I'm using my telephoto and 35mm Takumar "screw mount" lenses on it. A little fiddling but great images from great glass and a slick DSLR
Tony Renier
From the Pentax spec for the K10D ( pentaximaging.com/products/... ) on compatible lenses:
"Type - PENTAX KAF2 mount compatible with PENTAX KAF2, KAF and KA mount lenses; Power zoom function - Available; K-mount lenses - Usable with restrictions; S-mount lenses - Usable with adapter and restrictions; 67/645 lenses - Usable with adapter and restrictions"
The restrictions are probably related to Auto Focus (AF) and probably also auto-exposure. Newer lenses can talk back and forth to the cameras, which is really cool.
Long answer - YES. Pentax fit (K-mount) lenses will work fine. If the lens has an A(automatic) setting for aperture, then auto-exposure modes will work fine. If the is no A setting on the aperture ring, then with the K10d you just press the GREEN button to set the exposure (camera stops down the aperture and determines exposure settings) then you press the release to take the photo. Simple.
Pentax have kept their lens mount compatible right from the beginning of the K series of cameras. So, essentially, all lenses will fit on all cameras and the features which are supported on both the lens and the body will work.
For example... both support AF? => AutoFocus works.
both support auto-aperture: auto-exposures modes(of that body) work
both support power zoom: power zoom modes work
both support full-frame(35mm format): full-frame works with no vignetting
Pentax has a couple of very good entry-level SLRs that should be right for you.
Pentax K100D (with lens) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Pentax K110D (with lens) ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Body only models are available, and generally cost less, but then you just have to buy a lens for them anyway. Those models can be found through the product pages above, under 'Other Products to Compare.
The Canon 350D Digital Rebel XT ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) is also a safe bet, as it is a longtime favorite of digital camera enthusiasts and will provide superior performance and control without being completely impossible to figure out.'
I need recommendations for start-up camera and lens combinations that will yield good results for under $2,000. We have film slrs, and want to use digital at 8 megapixel or higher.
thanks
Canon: Canon 400D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the more durable Canon 30D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Nikon:
Nikon D80 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... ) or the more durable Nikon D200 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Sony (formerly Minolta, now out of the camera biz):
Sony Alpha a100 ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
Pentax:
Pentax K100D ( digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... )
I do aerial photography as a part of my job. I use a Canon 10D and with some Photoshop plugins, have made prints up to 20"x30" that look pretty good.
I agree with TomH's camera recommendations and suggest that most of your money be budgeted towards a Vibration Reduction lens that is fast (has minimum aperature setting of f/2.8 or less). When doing aerial photography, one of the biggest problems is the constant vibration of the airplane transferred to the camera. With a fast vibration reduction lens, you will greatly minimize this.
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The lens you noted is a "prime", not a zoom, that is, it's only a 200mm lens. It is a very good lens (Canon's "L" series are professional lenses). But as a first lens or two, I would recommend a zoom, and for anything over 200mm, consider image stabilization.
When shooting at a long focal length like 200mm, any camera motion is amplified, compared to a "normal" 50mm focal length. The rule of thumb is that you can reasonably hand-hold 50mm at 1/60th second. At 100mm, it's double (1/125th) and at 200mm it's double again, (1/250th). At such a fast shutter speed, you need some combination of these things to handle lower light situations:
<ul>
<li>A wide aperture, e.g. f/2.8, f/3.5, f/4.0, f/5.6 are each increasingly <i>narrow</i>, letting in 1/2 the light for each stop</li>
<li>High ISO, e.g. 1600, 800, 400, 200 are each slower by 1/2 for each stop</li>
<li>Image stabilization, which when turned on cam give you from 2 to three stops slower shutter speed to work with and still hand-hold a clear shot, so using the example above, at 50mm, minimum handheld speed is 1/60th second whereas with image stabilization it's 1/15th second</li>
</ul>
The wide aperture and image stabilization are why you would pay $1,700 for the <a href="digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... target="_blank">Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L-series image stabilized lens</a>, $1,100 for the <i>same lens without image stabilization</i>, and $550 for the same lens without image stabilization and with a minimum f/4.0. In addition, for all of these lenses, you're paying for the L series and also a fixed aperture and length: it doesn't get longer (and slower) as you zoom.
I lusted after all of these lenses, but ultimately found the right balance with the <a href="digitaladvisor.com/lenses/c... target="_blank"> Canon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 IS lens</a>, which I paid around $1100 for. It's much slower (f/5.6 at full zoom) -- this is 3 stops slower than the f/2.8 lens. The image stabilization, however gives you from 2 to 3 stops slower shutter speed when handheld. So it's all a trade-off. The reason I like this lens is that zoomed in (at 70mm) it's very compact -- the L lenses are all rather massive. But then again, the L lenses with their white bodies look cool :-).
And just to confuse matters a little, there are two new camera out that do Image Stabilization in a different way: instead of moving elements inside the lens, they actually moves the image sensor in the camera itself, and I think also use information from the gyroscope in the camera to potentially adjust the digital image also. The Sony A100 was originally made by Konica-Minolta as the Maxxum 7D, but Minolta has sadly gone out of business and Sony bought their SLR line and have reintroduced the camera as the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Sony Alpha a100K</a>. The other with in-camera IS is the <a href="digitalcamera-hq.com/digita... target="_blank">Pentax K100D</a>. Since the image stabilization is in the camera, you don't have to pay the premium for each lens you buy. But these are two new cameras, and haven't been reviewed very much, so caveat emptor.
I buy everything online -- I have a wonderful local camera shop where I used to get my film developed, but their prices are nowhere near as good as what you can get from very reputable dealers online. The chain stores are a nightmare, if you ask me. I completely trust B&H Photo, Adorama, 17th St. Photo, Vanns, BuyDig, NewEgg, Beach, and Abe's of Maine (which is actually in New York City :-). Amazon is also probably a good bet, but they typically sell through one of these merchants anyway. Do be careful about others that have lower merchant ratings or none at all -- there are many tricks that shady merchants play -- selling refurbished as new, selling non-US warranty, or advertising a low price then calling to tell you they don't have that one but have a "package" (a.k.a bait and switch). All the ones I noted have been around a while and live and die by their reputations and all buy in volume so get the best real prices you're likely to see. This is not an exhaustive list...
Good luck! Tom
Will this lens also work for night time sports? I'm trying to keep my costs as low as possible, so i dont want to have to purchase a bunch of different lenses.. I'll be shooting night time high school and college football games (some daytime) mostly, and also outdoor and indoor photos (for cd covers, posters, flyers, etc.)
If you want to spend the $1700, you'll get the 70-200 f/2.8 IS lens; if you can afford it, and the extra bulk is something you can live with, it's a killer lens.
For night sports shooting, I would consider a monopod; it gives you a good deal of flexibility, unlike a tripod, but can mitigate a lot of the camera shake from handholding.
Assuming the 70-300, in addition to regular IS modes, it also has a panning IS mode, which is perfect for horizontally moving subjects. It's a great versatile lens, and is a good complement to the 18-55mm lens that you can get as part of the 350D kit. In addition, the 350D (or maybe just the 30D) has an "AI Servo" mode which locks onto a moving subject and sets focus and exposure continuously.
Under any circumstances, sports shooting at night is perhaps the most difficult challenge in photography. It's also not cheap. You need to be quick, you need a great camera and lens, and know them well, and you need lots and lots of practice to get the kinds of shots you see in Sports Illustrated.
Tom
Pentax K100D (With Lens) Reviews
Pentax K100D (With Lens) Reviews by Digital Camera-HQ Users
- 5.0 out of 5
I have about 2700 shots taken so far-It shoots as well today as it did in Nov. 2006. The only down side is auto-focusing in low light & only 3 to 4 frames in a rapid fire situation. After the K200D has been out for say 8 to 10 months or so I will consider it as a compliment to my arsenal-I am an avid amature and enjoy shooting landscapes & wildlife-The battery life using E2 Lithium batteries is 650 to 700 photos-I use the built in fill flash about 40 % of the time. Value wise for someone breaking into DSLR & if you have a few Pentax lenses laying—You could not spend your $$ more wisely...........In my humble opinion .
- 5.0 out of 5
PRO
- Shake Reduction
- Built well it can take a beating makes nikon d40 seem like a fisher price toy.
- you can use old sigma/pentax lenses.
CONS
- Slow buffer
Auto pic is ok but when use manually it kicks d40 out of the planet.
- 5.0 out of 5
Words can't describe how good this camera is. "You deserve it"- it screams. Simply amazing! I knew that most old lenses would work with it, but so far every single one works like a charm. eBay is loaded with cheap and not so cheap lenses- around 800 used film,and 150 digital for Pentax alone- all the others combined have grand total that's few times lower. So far I got 4 prime lenses(A50/2,M50/1.4,A28/2.8,M135/2.5+35/3.5 screw mount, but still no adapter) 3 zooms(FA100-300,kit lens,A80-200),asahi tele-converter, remote, 3 asahi macro tubes for a total of around $350 all from eBay. Got the camera for about $550 (and I'm waiting on $50 MIR), so everything costs less than k10d body...AA batteries are nice but don't last- NiMH Energizer 2500 mAh do around 500-600 shots- not sure if I want the lithium rechargeable CR-V3 now, but people say it does shoot quicker. The kit lens is sweet- manual focusing is a little wobbly, but that's normal with AF lens.You can adjust focus manually on-the-fly after it stops AF-ing. The camera auto is pretty intelligent- it picks the scene automatically; it under exposes about 1/3 of a stop which is what I would do as safety- this way I can restore the shadows manually. Manual used to scare me, but know I almost feel the right numbers- awesome feeling! SR is a dream- it does make almost 1 second long hand held exposures possible. Works on all lenses I got- with the manual lenses it will ask the focal distance and BAM!- 50/1.4 becomes a night-time monster, +2x tele-converter turns it into 100mm/2.8 w/ shake reduction- so glad I didn't go with Canon- after HAVING this I don't think it's possible to look another way. Pentax made incredible choice to put SR on such a cheap model- it's amazing to see 20 years old piece of glass work on this modern marvel. I've used the *istD few years ago, and it was nifty camera, but just another SLR that you can't pronounce the name, so you can't even brag to your friends...this time around the name is just as classic as k1000, and the camera is going to be classic too. So far I've recommended this to anyone I know- after all everyone deserves to be a good photographer.
- 4.0 out of 5
BACKGROUND
Iâve owned SLRâs for 30 years starting with screw mount lenses and moving to Pentax K mount. In the last 5 years I became interested in digital photography owning a Canon A200 and Konica Minolta Dimage Z3. Weâve also got 5 other digital compacts in the household including new Samsung and Fuji 6MP models.
The KM Z3 is a great camera with a 12 times optical zoom and anti shake sensor but I was a little disappointed with noise in the dark areas of some pictures. This could be kept to a reasonable level if ISO was fixed at 50 but this limits flexibility when the sun isnât shining.
Iâd thought about buying a digital SLR for some time but couldnât really justify the expense over what seemed to be minor benefits. However, when I discovered that the K100D would work with my old K mount lenses and my manual flash guns and it had shake reduction I became very interested.
COMPARISON WITH OTHER SLRâS
Before purchase my local dealer (Jessops) ordered a K100D from their warehouse for me to look at. I had already checked many reviews and downloaded sample images for a number of cameras. These are my opinions;
Nikon D40 â Pleasing, well saturated images but a tendency to slightly over expose
Pentax K100D â Pleasant and well saturated but a tendency to slightly underexpose, very low noise. Surprisingly sharp for a 6MP camera and much sharper than the *ist models.
Olympus E500 âsofter images than the Pentax and Nikon which are 6MP
Olympus E400 â No better than the Pentax so to me not worth the very high premium. Just shows that the number of megapixels is only part of the story.
Sony Alpha â Very good but the difference to me isnât worth the extra money
Canon D400 â Very good but the difference to me isnât worth the extra money
My conclusion was that Olympus made a big mistake using the four thirds sensor. With current technology itâs too small to cram in so many photo receptors all receiving proportionately less light than the equivalent APS-C sensors on other cameras. Consequently they have to turn up the amplification which increases noise then apply heavy noise reduction to hide it but that just softens the image, so whatâs the point in having 10 megapixels if you soften it down to the resolution of 6 megapixels? The Sony and Canon are very good but quite a bit more expensive. The Pentax images could be blown up to A4 and it would be very difficult to tell the difference from a 10MP camera. At A3 the images would still be very pleasing and useable. So for my uses itâs not worth paying the extra. The Nikon D40 is very appealing but can occasionally burn out highlights (adjusting the EV compensation would probably cure this). It also doesnât have anti-shake (unless you spend a lot on lenses). So for me the K100D with itâs image quality, lens compatibility and anti shake for a comparatively low price was a no brainer.
HANDLING
If you are upgrading from a digital compact then you will find a significant difference in size and weight. Digital SLRâs are big, even bigger than my film SLR. However, the K100D is small to medium size for a digital SLR. At first I was unsure that I would like this but after using it you get used to it. On the positive side the K100D is very sturdy being made from a steel chassis and a strong plastic body. The battery compartment is shaped to provide good grip with a rubberised coating. The mechanical operation of the lens (18-55mm) is also good and on the whole the camera/lens package feels as though it will stand up to a fair amount of rough treatment and hard work. The controls are well positioned and easy to get used to.
SHOOTING MODES
There are a large number of shooting modes, the ones likely to be used the most are on the control dial. The fully automatic mode selects what it believes to be the most appropriate scene mode. I tried this and always got a decent picture but I prefer to use Program, Aperture priority or Manual. Aperture and shutter speed are adjusted using a thumbwheel on the rear of the camera. I like the viewfinder. It displays a useful range of info including the number of stops + or â adjustment required in manual mode.
I have a number of earlier Pentax K mount lenses ie open aperture metering and no âAâ setting. These will work in aperture priority mode but only at full aperture ie the lens isnât stopped down. Thatâs fine for my 80-200mm which is f4.5. I still get an acceptable picture. I also planned on using my Chinon 50mm for portraits which is f1.9. To use the full aperture range you need to use manual mode (set the menu to allow use of aperture ring and depth of field preview to stop down the lens). When you use the depth of field preview (on the on/off switch) the camera stops the lens down and gives you a meter reading. You can adjust the exposure with the thumbwheel (or aperture ring) while stopped down. Not bad once youâve got used to it and it allows you to use all those lenses you have.
DISPLAY AND MENUS
The 2.5 inch LCD is excellent. Pictures can be set to display for varying periods following capture. It will zoom up to 12x. The play mode has all the usual features including capture info and histogram. Despite some reviews criticising some of the menu texts their meanings seemed obvious to me and anyway they are easy to check out in the user manual which is pretty good.
All the controls youâd expect can be set in the menus but one feature I really like is the auto ISO range. You can set this at any single ISO (200-3200) or set a range for the camera to select from. Image noise is very low on this camera even up to ISO 800 so I tend to use a range of 200 to 800. This in combination with the shake reduction sensor allows you to take photos in low light without flash. I have been surprised at how good these pictures are.
BATTERIES
That large LCD does eat your batteries so keep itâs use to a minimum. You can get a set of 2600 NiMH rechargeables from ASDA for a tenner.
SHAKE REDUCTION
Iâve tested the shake reduction with 50mm, 18-55mm, 80-200mm and 80-200mm with a 2x converter (thatâs 200x2x1.5 = 600mm equiv. on a film slr). My Minolta has anti-shake with a 12x zoom so I had something to compare against. For older K mount lenses the camera asks you to confirm the focal length when you switch on. Shake reduction is definitely worth having, I have taken shots at ¼ of a second and got a usable picture. Obviously, your shutter speed needs to match your subject but with people for example you can easily take shots indoors without flash (auto white balance doesnât cope that well with indoor lighting, make sure you switch it over in the function menu). I also tested the 200mm zoom with 2x converter taking a picture of tree in the distance at 1/60th handheld. This picture is really sharp even blown up quite a lot. In conclusion, it seems to be as effective as the Minolta. The big plus is that the shake reduction uses a floating sensor in the camera body, it works with any lens, even my old manual focus ones. You donât get that with Nikon and Canon.
FLASH
The inbuilt flash was a pleasant surprise. It generally gives excellent pictures. You can set it to pop up automatically if the exposure requires it or leave it as manual and decide yourself when to use flash. It can get fooled by reflective objects which tend to make it underexpose a little but on the whole it provides well exposed pictures without redeye (and thatâs without redeye settings on). Itâs quite powerful and due to the cameraâs low noise you can use an ISO setting up to 800 giving you a very effective tool.
You can get the flash to work with your manual lenses in manual shooting mode. The flash will fire at full output so set the appropriate aperture. I soon got used to guessing the correct aperture based on the distance although you could work it out based on the guide number.
I have 3 flash guns from years gone by including a Chinon zoom head, a Chinon bracket mounted and a Cullman CX 35 which I wanted to use rather than buy a new one. The switching voltage must not be more than around 30 volts or youâll damage the camera. I managed to find this data for the Chinon zoom and the Cullman on the web. You must also ensure that any dedicated contacts donât work. I unscrewed the foot on the Chinon and snipped the wire for the single dedicated pin. The Cullman uses an interchangeable foot which slides off. Using my manual slr to fire it and through a process of elimination I taped over all the contacts between the foot and the base of the flash to leave just the ones that trigger the flash (You can switch the foot to manual but I still got a very low voltage across the contacts).
These flashes are automatic thyristor types you just set the cameraâs shutter speed/aperture in manual mode to the auto setting on the flashgun (eg f8) and away you go. These flash guns work extremely well and Iâve saved myself a bundle of cash.
FOCUS
Auto focus with the Pentax 18-55mm is quick and even works well in low light. It might hunt on the odd occasion if itâs a low light low contrast scene but it always focuses. I believe the flash can provide strobed light to assist but I havenât needed it so far. My Minlota Z3 would just give up in these situations. You can turn the manual focus ring at any time. The camera does use itâs 11 focus zones and gives you a red marker on screen where it chose to focus. Manual focus was a dream with my old K mount lenses as the matte viewfinder is very effective and the cameraâs own focusing system gives you both audible and visual focus confirmation.
IMAGE QUALITY
My original plan was to buy the K100D body and use my old lenses until I had saved up for a top quality 18-200 zoom. However, I could get the package with the Pentax 18-55mm for only £20 more than the body only, a no brainer. So how good is this bundled lens. My main concern was that it might provide a resolution lower than the sensor could capture. I also tested the 50mm Chinon and 80-200mm Vivitar. The review sites generally agreed that around 1500 lines per picture height was available and that âs what I got with all three lenses. In other words all 3 lenses are capable of resolving detail to the sensorâs limit. The 6mp sensor in this camera delivers far more lph than either the Fuji or Samsung 6mp compacts.
I have left the camera at the delivered settings except for image tone which I set to natural rather than bright.
I shot using raw and jpeg with no difference between the level of detail resolved. However, the jpegs do display some very minor colour moiré which isnât there in raw-until you apply the camera settings. I havenât had time to check out what causes this but suspect it could be the sharpening. In any case this is so minor it wonât impact on ârealâ pictures.
Iâve tried the multi segment and centre weighted metering and found both to be good although I think the centre weighting area is too small. My only other comment would be that there is the occasional slight under exposure from both which was hard to predict. I thought maybe half a stop compensation might cure it but itâs not consistent. This camera uses the same sensor as the Nikon D40 which I checked out before buying the Pentax. Image samples from the Nikon I found on the web were very good but there was the occasional burn out of highlights. The Pentax is maybe geared to avoiding burn out, the darker detail can be recovered using editing software. The dynamic range of the sensor could be a factor but you have to pay considerably more to go to the next level.
What pleases me the most about the images from this camera is itâs very low noise. It seems as though the camera doesnât have to apply much noise reduction or sharpening. This leaves pictures which are detailed and natural. Compared to say a 10mp Olympus Iâd take the Pentax every time.
If you submit pictures to agencies then the images respond well to interpolation (although of course this doesnât pull out any extra detail). I donât know what algorithm is used but the Pentax Raw converter software will save at larger image sizes and produce really good results. Iâve also tried interpolating jpegs using various algorithms (cubic etc) and the results are ok.
The RAW processing software seems pretty good but I havenât used it much to be honest as the jpegâs are really good straight from the camera (natural image tone setting). Contrast is very realistic and adjusting with levels or curves isnât really needed in most pictures.
If you are taking a serious set of pictures use RAW, it leaves your options open but as a default the conversion software will apply the camera jpeg settings if you want it to. Itâs a good base point to compare against. However, jpegâs from this camera are really natural (use the natural image tone setting) and donât lose any detail as far as I can tell.
In my view if you have shot jpegâs you shouldnât have to do much processing on the PC. They should be right first time and thatâs pretty much how they are from the K100D. Beyond all the measurements you still have to make a subjective judgement and I like pictures taken on this camera, they look as good as you can get at this price.
CONCLUSION
Proâs
Uses AA batteries
Compatible with most K mount lenses ever made
Works with dedicated and basic flash guns
Controls are easy to learn
Can be used in many modes from full manual to point and shoot
Shake reduction is very effective
Image noise is very low
Minimal in camera processing (my guess) ensures fine detail is retained.
Tough body.
Good inbuilt flash
Great value compared to the competion. Nothing at the price offers better images, then add shake reduction, a good bundled lens and backward lens compatabilty for a well thought out SLR.
Conâs
Small to medium for a digital SLR but (in my view) all digital SLRâs are a tad too big and heavy.
Comparatively speaking a good buy but digital SLRâs should not cost this much.
Thatâs it..
Phil Leese
- 4.0 out of 5
I've been hunting for a good DSLR for a while, being fed up with compacts and 'super zoom' cameras. In fact my last camera (and my secondary to this one) is a Kodak P850, which I was very happy with, but it has it's problems.
Jumping into the DSLR family has definatly fixed the problems I was having... more control, faster frames, clearer pictures, better flash, better expandibility.
The choice to go with the K100D was an easy one for me, and almost made considering I inherited my parents old Pentax MX SLR and many acompanying lens. Buying into the system instead of having to start a new system was the biggest thing...
However, for the price I would have gone with the Pentax anyways. With the K100D your getting a very good SLR for the hobbist. The Shake Reduction is a life saver, and the smaller size is great for portability. The flash has a great range, and the included lens (mine came with a 18-55mm) is not all that bad... I'm keepin mine in the box seeing as how I like my old Pentax 55mm lens better.
The K100D has backwards compatibility with all of Pentax's classic K-mount lenses. This includes thrid party lenes, like those from Vistek (did I spell that right?). With a slight modification (taking the black metal ring out of the mount of the lens) made these lens mount with ease.
The buffer is pretty large for this camera, seeing as how I'm using it @ 5mp high quality jpg mode, I can get a lot of shots on there quickly. I normally keep this thing in drive mode since I shoot a lot of Skateboarders and rock bands. its nice that the buffer allows me to get in about 20 shots before it starts jamming up. even then the buffer clears fast enough that frame rates are still better than my Kodak P850.
I find that running in 6mp mode/raw formats is a little much for me. As the higher resolution just makes it more frustrating to work with later on anyways... I find not many people can truley appreciate a 6mp file unless they got a big ass monitor with a decent vid card powering it.
So far my only complaint with this camera is the battery time. Off the initial batterys I got in about 30 shots before the camera died. Oh well...cruddy batteries. I then loaded in some Duracell batteries...but I only got 200 shots out of them.... wtf? I usually keep the camera in standby mode.
I found that by resetting the camera numerous times I could squeeze another ten shots out before it gave me the battery depeleted signal again...I could restart the camera 10 times before the camera actually died.
Since I got me some NiCD rechargeables.
Great photos, amazing sharpness, everything you want out of a camera. It won't fix lack of experiance, but it will definatly get you on your way!
- 4.0 out of 5
if you have got a job in photography this camera is perfect for anyone on a budget.
packed with a 50-100mm lens it is perfect for portraits or even macros and is extremely durable. while it is ok for these shots i can and will recommend a 100-200mm for landscapes and sport shots (especially motor racing). the flash while good for some shots, i recommend getting a flashgun when going past the enthusiast stage (or if you have enough, an entire setup )
all in all i can recommend this for the body but if you care enough, get an extra Len's straight away its good but there are better lenses that come packed with other pentax cameras so, if any thing, buy for the body, not the 6mp sensor.
- 5.0 out of 5
I received this camera just a few days before a trip to Japan, Australia, and Hawaii. We took along our 35 mm Pentax Superprogram camera because we did not really trust an untried digital camera. I was rather amazed to find that the first pictures did look good.
I have now taken about 1400 pictures with this camera under a wide range of conditions and am pleased with the results.
I was completely surprised to find that we took so many pictures. Since I saved all the pictures in the raw format that did take lots of disk space; we did copy our sd memories to CD's and DVD's several times along the way.
It was lots of fun to take pictures in museums, in theaters(before the show), outdoors, etc. that would have needed a tripod with the film camera.
- 5.0 out of 5
K100D with Pentax 16-45 lens.
Outstanding combo.
Better than I had been expecting.
Details in the photos are amazing.
- 5.0 out of 5
I find the K100D easy to use.
I'm very pleased with the results and very happy with the battery life,... Using the Lithium one use batteries, I'm still on my first set.
(Don't bother with Alkaline batts..)
Compared to my Minolta 7i which would eat a set of these same batteries in what seemed like a few hours. This thing keeps going and going.
I'll leave all the technical reviews for the pros out here.
I will say this camera does a nice job of taking night shots with the shutter open for 30" or more.
Using my old Pentax and Chinon lenses proved no problem.
It's a keeper.....
- 5.0 out of 5
As a professional photographer I am always looking for the camera that will allow a number of different lens with true color production. Most of my photos are not fast sports action, but lighting ranges and color are of most importance to me. So is compactness and light weight. I still use other Pentax cameras (7 at this time)for other situational assignments but the lens are interchangeable!! So Pentax has a real winner with their new K100/110D models—-buy now!!
- 4.0 out of 5
I received this camera a few days ago. I've taken a number of shots with it and find that it has excellent detail and works very well. A number of the revies on this site attest to that so I won't dwell on it.
However, I have a set of older K-mount lenses that I inherited from my father. The press release for this camera announces compatibility with all of the older K-mount lenses. BE CAREFUL... they mean Pentax K-mount lenses. None of the lenses I tried (most were from sears) actually worked on the camera and the last one got stuck and can't be removed from the body turning the new camera into a paperweight. I can't say for sure yet whether this is the fault of the camera or the lens (though I'd lean towards the lens). At first estimate it's going to cost half the cost of the camera to remove the lens.
- 5.0 out of 5
I went from a 3 MP Fuji SLR to the Pentax— what a difference in speed. My break in for the camera was my church picinic— I shot over 400 pics on a single set of batteries. The speed the camera has in multiple exposure mode is impressive. I was used to waiting for the pic to save on my old camera, and the pentax was pretty much instant. The focus was sharp and fast, and the camera is a pleasure to use. I look forward to more usage from this awesome Digital SLR.
- 5.0 out of 5
Shake reduction works as well as promised and perhaps even better. The camera is good built and the picture quality is superb. Noise levels are fairly low and the dynamic range is one of the best. Highly recommended!
- 4.0 out of 5
This camera is fabulous. I chose it because I am upgrading from compact fixed lens digital camera to SLR. I love everything about it. It feels absolutely perfect in the hands, it's slightly heavier than some but it has mouldings that help keep it stable and comfy. It looks much classier than it's counterpart Nikon D50 and Cannon 350 - less 'plasticy'. (Even basic things like the camera strap and bag are much higher quality than most of the big names!). The screen is huge, cristal clear, all the menu settings are very easy to learn and remember where they are. The various buttons are really straightforward to learn and in just the right place to reach easily. I have done masses of research on the K100d and it has more functionality than it's counterparts e.g. able to use twice the ISO, has black & white, the anti-shake of course etc, etc. The batteries are triple A which is really handy should you forget to keep the main ones re-charged.
The only thing that has stuck in my throat a little though is that I had the opportunity to compare it side-by-side with the Nikon D50. Physically, the Nikon D50 is a complete disappointment in terms of how it looks, feels and handles compared with the K100d. It's much less intuitive and so trickier to get used to. But the fact stuck in my throat is that, it truth, the Nikon D50 produces betters pictures in every one of my tests. (That is me, a new SLR user using all the camera's settings, not my own). So, if picture quality is paramount, get the Nikon. If fantastic pictures and the best actual camera in terms of physical quality and ease of use etc is what you're after, get the Pentax K100d. You will fall in love with it and it is unlikely that you will have Nikon pictures to hand to nit-pick against!
- 4.0 out of 5
I have taken many aerial and structural pictures within a limited time of purchase, August 12, 2006. The K100D operates easily and with shake reduction available when needed, the pictures are great!
- 5.0 out of 5
Pentax has really scored big with the K100D! The camera produces beautiful, sharp images with its shake reduction feature. It has a big bright LCD and view finder. The camera is very simple to use. The autofocus is faster than earlier DSLR's from Pentax. It comes with a new photo browser and raw conversion from SilkyPix that's far better than earlier offerings. Combined with its attractive price tag, anyone looking for a new DSLR should seriously consider the K100D!
